Repair - In any case, a very troublesome event. And if it is assumed that a complete dismantling of wall cladding and gender will be performed, the estimated volume of work can scare even an experienced repairman, not to mention the home master. Indeed, in this case, only to get rid of old materials will take place not one day intensive work.
Therefore, novice builders are trying to find out whether it is possible to put the tile on the tile and thereby save their strength and time. Let's try to figure out together.
But, nevertheless, in some cases, the old outdoor or wall covering is better to save and make the basis for the new one. Why? We will try to justify.
Destruction of an old basis when dismantling
Dismantling the old tile, for sure, will lead to the destruction of the foundation on which it is fixed. Thus, when removing the floor tiles, fragments of the screed fragments, the leveling flooring from plywood will also be unusable, and when working with a wall-mounted coating, laid on plasterboard, the latter will certainly be spoiled.
Thus, in addition to performing work on dismantling and laying a new tile, you will have to re-equip and the foundation that is quite laborious, costly and takes a lot of time to solidify the material.
"Dirty" and costly preparatory work
With all the efforts, the dismantling of the old cladding cannot be performed clean. The dust will be very strong because it will have to work perforator. The number of construction garbage, which will need to take out, as large. In addition, the bathroom will have to fully free from furniture and plumbing equipment.
Experienced masters note that the neighboring premises may suffer from dust. The equipment and furniture in them must be covered with polyethylene, if possible, it is worth protecting and finishing the premises, otherwise it can seriously suffer.
Dismantling of the old tile is a very time-consuming event. In the process of its execution, the old base on which facing is necessarily damaged and it will have to restore
"Contraindications" to preserve the old coating
As it has already become clear, there are many additional problems with dismantling. To minimize them, it is worth trying to leave the old cladding. However, it is not always possible to do this. There are several cases when it is categorically not recommended to leave the tile:
- After the finish finish, the expected floor level will be higher than in the rest of the rooms. The bathroom refers to the premises where the risk of leaks is especially high, so the floor level in the bathroom is recommended to do below 3-5 cm. This is done in order to in the event of an accident, water cannot flow outside the room. Violate this rule is not recommended.
- Non-quality materials of old cladding. This applies to both glue and tile itself. Covered with a network of small cracks facing will not be able to become a good basis for the new coating. In the cracks already appeared fungus, indelible fat and dirt. Bad glue will not be able to securely hold the tile, it will drop, and shake the basis of the new cladding.
- The room has small sizes. It is necessary to consider that laying the tiles on top of the old coating will reduce the already small room.
- Under the tile coating, engineering communications are laid, and there are no revision hatches. If you put a new facing on top of such a base, in the event of an accident you will have to dismantle two layers of tile, which is much more expensive and time consuming.
- Uneven cladding or a clear bias that you want to align. When laying the tile, the height differences are resolved less than 4 mm per 2 m surfaces. If the difference is greater, it will have to dismantle the old coating.
Snaps argue that the base for the tile coating should be monolithic, rough and porous. All this does not correspond to the characteristics of ceramic facing, which is composed of individual, small in size elements, and besides high smoothness.
Thus, it seems that it is categorically impossible to lay a new tile on the old one. This is not quite so. Consider the monolith of the coating. A high-quality tile competently laid on a good glue forms a solid monolithic base, quite suitable for laying another layer of cladding.
With the porosity of the material, everything is somewhat more complicated. The most significant advantage of building ceramics is its high density, which is combined with the minimum amount of pore moisture absorb. The less pore on the surface of the tile, the better it is.
In any case, the bursting coefficient is about 0.5%. This is negligible so that glue penetrates inside the tile, he has fixed in it and kept a new ceramic element. That is why before starting work on the installation of a new tile, you must remove the glaze with the old to open the pores of the ceramics and at the same time increase its roughness.
You can solve the problem in three different ways:
- Stripping the old tile with the help of a grinder with a special nozzle. As a result, the top layer of glazes is removed, and the pores of the material opens.
- Formation of notches on the surface of the tile. It is performed using a bacal with an abrasive disk. So you can apply crosslings in ceramics that improve the adhesion of the base.
- Applying a special primer that improves the cloudy material. It may be any composition enriched with needle quartz or ordinary sand. Such solutions are produced by all manufacturers of building mixtures.
Experts note that the best result is able to achieve in the case when all three methods described above are used in the complex. Therefore, it is persistently recommended to flow in this way.
The surface of the ceramic tile is very smooth and practically devoid of pores. It is impossible to glue to such a base, so it must be prepared in a special way
Order of installation work
The procedure is performed in several stages.
Stage # 1: Strengthen the old coating
First of all, we need to understand how reliably the old cladding is resting. To do this, we take a special hammer with a copper sleepy, if it is not, a small hammer is made of steel, and carefully climb them all the tile coating. We perform the operation very carefully, not missing any element.
Touch the center of the part and corners. The cavity under the lining will be given themselves to know the ringing echo, which is heated from under ceramics. It should be understood that the presence of such cavities suggests that a new coating laid on such a base will be collapsed.
Defective elements immediately dismantle, using a hammer and chisel for this. The cavities formed fill in cement mortar and wait for its complete frost. The deadline for solving the composition depends on the thickness of its layer. For example, the centimeter layer will completely freeze in 7 days. The crumbling seams gently clealed the chisel and fill in tiled glue or cement mortar. Also waiting for drying.
If, as a result of the tile attack, it turned out that under it is poorly held on the basis, the defective cladding must be deleted. We use chisel and hammer for this
Stage # 2: Cooking the ceramic surface to laying
We begin with a tile stripping. To do this, take the barrage, sit on it a grinding wheel with medium grain, and proceed to work. Carefully process the entire ceramic surface. We remove the icing from the tile, after which we perform on the tiled base of notches, which will improve the adhesion of the material.
Now we need to prepare the surface to priming. For this, my carefully mine. First clean water, flushing dust, then use a soap solution. It will help remove fat and dirt.
If on the basis there are solar stains or poorly washed fat, add soda to the water. Pretty rinse a ceramic surface, rinse several times with clean water. After drying the ceramics, proceed to priming. We try to apply a solution evenly, gently distributing it with a brush or roller.
Strictly carry out the requirements of the instructions, we apply the number of composition specified in it. In order not to blur the designs associated with the floor, before work, we close them with polyethylene. We are waiting for the drying of the primer. It will take 3 or 4 hours.
To prepare the old tile coating, special solutions are used, which include needle quartz or ordinary sand. They are produced packaged in hermetically packed tanks
Stage # 3: Surface markup and installation of stops
Before laying the tile, you must perform marking and set the stops to which the first row of facing will be relying. It is best to draw the scheme on which all the design features of the room will be indicated. On it we perform an exemplary layout of the elements. It is desirable that the seams of the upper parts lie on the whole tiles. To do this, you need to shift the upper joints relative to the lower.
In the case of laying tiles on the wall at the bottom of the wall, focusing for the first row of tiles. It can be a wooden rail or plastic corner. Take a plumb and draw a line based on the line, perpendicular to the stop. It is necessary to control the vertical styling. If it is assumed to install a tile of different colors, you can mark the places of gluing the details of another tone.
Installation of floor tiles start from a long corner of the room. Watch the first row line and mark the location of the elements different from other coloring or texture that will form a pattern. We ensure that the entrance to the room has necessarily a whole piece without trimming.
When carrying out the calculations, do not forget that it is necessary to take into account not only the size of the tile, but also the size of the gap between the elements.
Stopping the tile on the wall is easier if under the first row to install a special focus on which the first row of cladding will be relying. Otherwise the elements will slide down and achieve smooth masonry will be much more difficult
Stage # 4: Laying whole tile
The most difficult thing is to lay out the first row. We begin with applying a solution. To do this, use a special toothed spatula, the height of the teeth of which is equal to the thickness of the glue layer.
Prepared tiles lean towards the support, then gently turn it out and put it on the solution. It is not necessary to press the detail very much. Better with light movements slightly turn the element around the axis. In this way, it will be possible to achieve maximum adhesion. Laying the tile must be remembered that it will be difficult to tear it from the surface.
It will be possible only to move the item to the side slightly, so we choose the place for laying as accurately as possible. Be sure to check the farewell of laying using the construction level. If you need to deepen a tile, do it with a rubber hammer.
In the corners of the details set plastic crosses that will help withstand the exact dimensions of the gaps. Another important point: the gaps should remain as clean as possible. It is impossible to extract the parts too much so that the solution across the edges.
Tile put on a layer of solution applied to the base with a toothed spatula. We put the part with a light circular motion so that the adhesion with glue was the best
After acquiring a small experience, you can try to apply a solution for several tiles at once. Then fast, but accurate movements put the details in place, slightly turning them at the same time. We distribute crosses into the gaps, slightly add the cladding level by checking the correctness of its installation.
Setting the first row, take a break to wait for the complete drying of the glue. So it will be more convenient to put the rest of the tile. Important moment: All surplus of the solution in places intended for mounting the cutting tiles must be immediately removed. Otherwise, they are dried, and before the continuation of the work will have to chop the hardened glue, which will definitely affect the strength of the connection of laid parts. Similarly, we do before a break in work, we remove the solution along the edge of the completed series.
Stage # 5: Montage of cut tile
The remaining areas of the base must be filled with tile fragments. They must be chopped from one-piece details. We do it with glass cutter or stoveturis. Place the item, not forgetting the magnitude of the gaps.
We form a smooth edge of the element using a special machine with a diamond circle or hubble tiles. The trained fragment is set to the desired place in the same way as a whole tile.
Before tringing, the tile must be accurately placed, taking into account the size of the facing and the magnitude of the gaps
Stage # 6: Grout or Fougaling
The final stage consisting in filling the intercutric seams with a special solution. Before starting work, a complete drying of the glue should be waited, to which the facing was laid. After that, carefully remove all the crosses from the gaps between the tiles. Now we clean the seams and the surface of the details from dust and garbage. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose.
If we use epoxy or silicone solution, we take the edges of the tiles with a painted tape, which will prevent the mixture from entering the tile, since it is very difficult to remove it after drying.
At the end of the laying of the tile, the intercine seams are filled with grout. Use soft rubber spatula to work
The rapid solution can be performed on the basis of epoxy resin, silicone or cement. They are almost similar in their characteristics, differ in the same way of preparation and use. Epoxy and silicone compositions are sold in ready-to-use form, packed in hermetic container.
Cement solution must be prepared independently, spreading a dry mixture with water. We take a rubber spatula and apply a small amount of prepared composition on the seam. Slightly pressing him deep into the junction. Then remove the excess composition. To do this, we establish a spatula across the seam and spend on it with a small pressure. Seam at the same time is a little deepening and levels. By filling out all intercutric junctions, we leave them until complete drying.
We remove the remnants of the grouts and greater tape. Clean and wash my coating.
Video instructions from masters
Thus, it can be concluded that, despite the recommendations of the SNIPs, it is quite possible to set high quality tiles on top of the old tile. However, this is not as simple as it may seem. It is very important to correctly assess the state of the old coating and determine whether it can be the basis for laying a new tile. In addition, it is extremely important to properly conduct preparatory work. Only in this case can be counting on a good result.
In the process of carrying out repair work, it is necessary to deal with many complex questions, the correct answers to which will determine the quality and service life of the new trim. One of these questions - is it possible to lay a tile on the tile? Consider whether it is possible to use an old tile as the basis for a new coating or still better disassemble it to avoid possible problems.
Features of preparation of various types of surfaces. How to rub the seams. Criteria for selecting a tiled coating and floor laying patterns.
How to remove old grout from seams tile
Quite often to face the situation when the state of the old tile is quite satisfactory, but in order to use it as a basis for a new coating, it is required to replace the grouts for seams. Conduct this procedure is quite possible, however, it requires attention and time. Consider how to remove the grout from the tile seams correctly.
In order to remove the old grout, there is a special tool called "Schedules". With it, you can remove the grout mechanically. By itself, it represents a blade with a comfortable handle, but an ordinary knife can be used as an alternative.
The blade of the knife or the frameter must be walking on both sides at an angle and directly. It is necessary to abide by caution in order not to spin the edges of the tile. It is worth noting that it will not work "manually" quickly, so you can use a drill with a thin drill or electric chisel.
Important! If, in the process of removing the old grout, the tile also began to crumble, it is better to abandon the idea to put another layer from above even if there is a new grout.
How to remove the old grout from the tile seams, if it is silicone
Silicone grout also requires dismantling and replacement, especially if high-quality ventilation has not been provided in the room. Very often have to face that the seams are affected by mold, remove which is almost impossible. Therefore, before laying a new one on top of the old tile, you need to take care of the hygiene of the seams.
The removal of silicone sealant is carried out with a sharp knife or a special scraper. After that, additional cleaning is performed using a vacuum cleaner.
Helpful advice! There are special means to eliminate silicone faster and with less effort. Such formulations are applied using a mounting gun, after which it is necessary to wait at least 24 hours. The seams are then rubbed with a cloth or paper.
Is it possible to lay a tile on the tile on the floor: features
Outdoor coating, unlike wall, is not exposed to the strength of attraction. Therefore, in some sense, laying is easier. But in this case, another complexity occurs - the new coating will be regularly subjected to serious loads.
Before gluing a tile on the floor, you need to carry out no less thorough check of each element of the bottom layer. To do this, you can use the same hammer to climb, but you can try another approach: a flat base (a box is well fitted), you need to smoothly drag on the surface, carefully observing that no tile fails for several millimeters. Make it in a small bathroom or bathroom is difficult, but for larger premises, this is a very effective way.
In general, all the recommendations that are provided in the previous section are relevant and in the case of work with the floor. It is advisable only to give preference to mineral compositions. Thus, the surface will be ensured greater elasticity, which will allow it to withstand heavy loads and temperature differences.
Helpful advice! Before putting outdoor tiles on top of the old ceramic coating, you can not carry out so intense preparatory work as in the case of the wall surface. But to moisturize the basis before proceeding to applying glue, it still costs, as it will have a positive effect on the clutch.
Is it possible to make a bulk sex on the old tile
As a basis for a new coating, a bulk floor can be used, the installation of which is carried out directly to the surface of the old tile. As in all previous cases, the mandatory procedure is a thorough check of the quality of fastening the lower layer. All loosely adjacent elements are necessarily disassembled.
It is worth paying attention to the fact that in cases where it is about working with a glossy surface, the upper coating layer is removed to ensure the necessary level of adhesion between the solution and the cafenel. Filling and further work is carried out according to the standard algorithm.
Helpful advice! For laying a new layer of tile, a thick layer of bulk sex is not required. Its thickness should not exceed 5 mm. The main thing is to evenly distribute the composition over the entire surface.
Taking into account the opinion of specialists, it can be said that it is possible to make a bulk floor over the tile only in extreme cases. At the same time, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room should be small, and the requirements for the operational characteristics of the surface are minimal.
Is it possible to lay a tile on the tile on the street
A very interesting question that may occur - can we put a new layer of paving slabs on top of the old one. Of course, such a procedure is often unreasonable, but in some cases this technology is resorted to the process of arranging garden tracks, terraces and summer sites.
As in the case of a tile laid on an old coating inside the house, the main criterion is the quality of fastening the bottom layer. You can conduct a check by using the mounted or a durable knife. Using such tools you need to try to remove one of the items.
Important! If the tile managed to shift with a knife, but for this it was required to make serious physical efforts, such a coating can be used as a basis. If the tile took off easily, in the future it may cause the deformation of the upper layer.
On top of the old layer of tile, a new pillow is embanked, which should consist of three layers - loose soil, gravel, sand. At the same time, the seal of each layer is necessary separately. From above, according to standard technology, a new layer of paving slabs is stacked.
Thus, the answer to the question is whether it is possible to lay a tile on the tile on the floor in the bathroom or even on the walls, rather an affirmative. Of course, in the process of work, many rules and recommendations will have to be observed, and the final result can almost always be unpredictable, but in principle, it is quite possible.
Decorative ceramic tile is perhaps the most popular finishing material for seating floors in the bathroom, hallway, corridor and kitchen.
This is explained by his practicality, hygienicness and enviable durability.
Laying tiles - work is not out of the lungs, and requires certain knowledge and skill, and so that everything happens as neat as possible and aesthetically, you need even at least a small experience.
Very often it happens that the owner of the apartment would like to replace the old sex tile to a new one, but he is simply scary to take on this occupation. Dust and garbage, labor-intensive work on dismantling - all this stops. In this case, the question arises about the possibility of laying tiles to the old, long-laid.
The answer is unambiguous-technologies of laying a new modern tile on the old tile exists and is actively used during repairs.
But before deciding to embody this idea, it is necessary to consider the advantages and disadvantages of this method, to calculate real opportunities in annex to the specific conditions of their own apartment.
If the old tile coating was once laid on conscience, then it is already in itself a good durable basis for the new.
There will be no need for very laborious, costly, dirty and noisy work on the dismantling of the old coating.
In addition, the removal of the old tile will necessarily entail large-scale work on the repair of the base, the device of new waterproofing, leveling the level of cement screed, etc.
In some cases, laying the tile on the old tile base is the most appropriate and from the point of view of the impossibility of its removal due to undergoing water supply or sewer communications, and capitally installed plumbing equipment.
However, it should be remembered that such a technology is not always applicable:
If the old coating is strongly loosened, the cement-glue mixture is crushed under it, it will be necessary to carry out a complete dismantling.
Laying the new tile on the tile on the floor on top of the fragile base, simply doomed to failure - long this gender will not last.
In high-rise buildings of the old building, the level of the Metlah tiles of the floor in the bathroom or in the bathroom can differ quite horizontally.
Thus, to give the room accuracy and geometric correctness, you will have to pierce a screed, and for this you need to dismantle the old tile.
Another "underwater stone". The second layer of tile will inevitably lead to an increase in the floor level.
But in the bathroom or in the toilet, it must be lower than in the corridor, and is additionally protected by a 1.5-2 cm booster - to avoid the likelihood of random flooding of residential premises.
Thorough promresses should be held, before being taken for such work.
The first is a thorough edge of the floor!
If it is still decided to lay the decorative tile on the old tile coating, then the most important condition for the success of the work will be thorough preparation of the foundation.
First of all, it is necessary to climb the entire old floor on your knees and inspect each tile.
If any of them "play", have significant cracks, creak when pressed - they are subject to removal.
Just visually estimate the state of the old coating will not work - it is necessary to catch the entire tile with a hammer.
If a ringing sound is heard - this indicates the detachment of the cladding, which means that it will not serve as a reliable basis. We also have to remove these fragments, clean the released surface, lift and align to a common level with a sand-cement solution.
It is clear that this is done only if it is single tiles. When such a flaw is taking a massive character, you should not doubt - you need to remove the entire old tile completely.
How to prepare the surface to lay tile
The main enemies when laying a new tile coating on an old is a glazed surface, significantly reduced adhesive characteristics of adhesive mixtures, and a banal former dirt, which also prevents the high-quality tile grip with the base.
To increase the strength of the stacked coating, they are advised on an old tile with a glossy slippery coating to make notches, screw holes, and even better - to carefully treat it with a diamond disk "Bulgarian", up to the ceramic basis. After that, the surface is necessary to spend the most thorough way.
Special attention - cleaning the old coating from dirt. During the time that it was on the floor, it necessarily formed a practically invisible fatty raid, which can not act on the adhesive composition not the best way.
Degreasing is carried out in different ways - someone applies organic solvents, gasoline, acetone. Those who do not want to breathe chemistry can be advised to rinse the floor thoroughly several times with warm water with the addition of caustic soda.
We should not forget about the state of interputric seams. This is the traditional place of the accumulation of dirt and fat, and their cleaning must be carried out.
If the old filling of the seams began to sharpen, it should be removed to the maximum possible depth, and after washing to lift with tile glue or cement mortar to the coating level.
It is the opinion that, subject to the progress of the old tile cover, "concrete contact", you can do without prior to giving it roughness.
However, the ideal option will still spend both both - this will serve as a guarantee of success.
As applicable in this case, primers, except for "Benonokontakta", are called "Ivsil Basis-Beton", "Plovetonite-primer supercontact", "Cerezite CN94".
All further work can be continued only after complete drying of the primer layer. A grainy surface should be obtained by texture with sandpaper.
Some craftsmen, in addition, practicing a thin layer of tile glue - about 2 mm, and after it is frozen, it is processed to laying the tile.
Is there any glue?
Laying the tiles on top of the old tile coating in its technology is not very different from the usual, although there are still their nuances:
- The height of the comb on the soldier should be about 10-15 mm.
- When laying out the starting row, it is better to place a new ceramic tile so that the seams do not coincide with the old.
But is there any glue applicable for such work?
Is it worth listening to those who claim that after processing "concrete contact", the glue brand does not have a fundamental importance?
Probably, it is still worth considering the issue of choosing glue very responsible, especially since we will mainly go about laying the tile indoors with high humidity.
What advise experienced masters?
Good characteristics that will make a reliable and resistant coating, has glue "IVSIL PROFIT".
It is true, more developed for porcelain stoneware, but in the case of stacking over the old tile is an excellent option.
High adhesion, even to the smooth lower tiled layer, has "Cepese CM17". Its purpose is precisely complex surfaces, and the new coating will be reliable and durable.
A lot of good reviews earned the adhesive composition "Vetonit Renovation". Even some finishers claim to him that it may not be necessary to impart roughness to the old cafél - such a glue composition of plasticity and adhesion.
Of course, such adhesive mixtures intended for particularly durable coatings and complex surfaces are more expensive. However, the savings in this matter can be destructive, and it is better to be restrained, acquiring really reliable material.
So, put a new tile on the old ceramic coating - a permissible option, if we observe all the indicated rules.
Sometimes the choice of this technology is the only right solution, both from the point of view of efficiency and in terms of repair work. And if the question arose before you, whether such a floor finish is permissible, boldly fight for business - everything should work out.
Ceramic tile is one of the best materials for finishing the premises with special operating conditions. Such cladding is not afraid of the effects of high humidity, temperature drops, the abrasive load, in itself is very attractive externally, it is easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms - better and not to find. And what else is important - with the process of its laying it is quite possible to cope with yourself.
Why makes sense to try to make a facing with your own hands? Just even if the surfaces under the laying are perfectly even, for the services of the wizard will have to give about the same amount as the material itself, and it is even at best. Such spending can be avoided. After reading ourselves from ours article article How to put a tile on the wall, the reader will receive a clear idea of \u200b\u200ball stages of work, starting with the preparation of surfaces and selection of tiles - and before seaming seams. And probably make sure that nothing is supernatural in the execution of such a finish.
Preliminary stages
Preparation of surfaces for finishing
It is absolutely pointless to begin facing work on unprepared to this wall. Some novice home masters naive believes that the ceramic tile layer will reliably hide all the "disadvantage" of the surface, and in the end it will turn out a straight beautiful wall. They are brutally mistaken!
What includes the preparation process?
- Mandatory need to get rid of the old wall decoration. There will be no, for example, keep glue tiles on a painted surface. Completely exclude or even their small fragments. If there was a tile earlier on the wall, then after dismantling it should be removed all the influx and drops of frozen glue.
- Be sure to check the quality of the plaster layer if it is. All problematic sites are removed immediately. It is necessary to catch up the entire area, identify the venues of instability, which are also subject to removal. And most often it happens that if a penetrating site is detected in some kind of area - it will then dare and everything else, that is, the plaster has to shoot down completely.
- In no case is not disregard if traces of their biological lesion were found on the walls - mold spots, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out at all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, it will have to conduct preliminary "treatment" of the wall
- On the surfaces there should be no cracks or cracks. If they are revealed, appropriate repair work is carried out by their high-quality sealing.
- The wall should be smooth, that is, to represent a plane, and not twisted, a diluted, protruding or concave surface. On the lined walls, the tile is laid without problems. Yes, there are methods of alignment of walls by mounting ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not even all experienced masters love to do it, as this task is extremely difficult. And if the newcomer has to "debut", but there is nothing to think about it. Much easier will be alignment - and the finish will definitely get high quality.
Alignment methods a lot, and some of them, for example, the use of moisture resistant plasterboard or hypusoloconne Plate - not so complex and will not require much time.
Prices for moisture resistant plasterboard
moisture-resistant plasterboard
How to alone the walls for the finish?
Do not be afraid of this task in advance. There are many available technologies that are quickly mastered even beginners. Moreover, the ideal smoothness of the surface is not required to lay the tile - a fairly correct geometry. It is discussed in detail in a special publication of our portal.
- Ceramic tile most often stacked in rooms with high humidity, so it is worth thinking about reliable waterproofing. To the greater extent, it is definitely the floor, but also on the walls makes sense to provide waterproof The "belt" at least 100 ÷ 200 mm height from the floor throughout the perimeter. In addition, it is desirable to increase waterproofing sections of the passage through the walls of water and sewer pipes, areas around water sockets.
And in frankly "wet areas" walls, for example, around the bath, washbasin, shower, etc., waterproofing is generally better to perform solid. Exemplary dimensional standards for these sites are shown in the illustration:
- Finally, the wall should be carefully hampered by the composition of deep penetration. This measure will fully divert the surface, eliminates the phenomenon of absorbing moisture. That is, the wall material will not take the water from the tile glue, giving it to be frozen under optimal conditions. The best adhesion indicators are achieved. In addition, many primers have also antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never be superfluous.
If absorbing the quality of the material is high, then the processing of the primer is performed twice, be sure to wait for the first drying of the first layer. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after the end of the preparatory work. But if between this stage and finishing for some reason there is a significant gap in time, it will be desirable to apply primer once again - a day before the start of the tile mounting. So a qualitative result will be guaranteed.
Prices for grinding for walls
grinding for walls
Project preparation and selection of necessary tiles
It is clear that these two questions are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not disassemble the designer approaches to the choice of the interior of the room - we will dwell on some practical aspects.
Planning the location of the tile on the walls
Of course, the owners must already represent what they wish to see in the end. Surely got acquainted with the exemplary assortment of the tile presented in the store. That is, it remains to "enter" the selected collection into the specific sizes of its premises.
Here you should not rely on the eye. The best option is to compile a graphic scheme for each of the walls separately. Moreover, if it is assumed not solid facing by one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or by partitioning to the sections. Some material manufacturers offer on their official online program sites, allowing optimally placing tiles on the walls. If there is no such possibility - you will have to sit yourself or in a graphic editor, or just over paper schemes.
- In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cutting edge will have to the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case, the least noticeable angle is selected. But you should immediately estimate, and what fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then take this site carefully will be very difficult, and then it is impossible at all. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting an incoming look, such a placement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose such a location to start from the center of the wall - butlater from It is styled to the edges with the same trimming on both sides.
It all depends, of course, from the size of the wall and tiles. It often happens that the alignment is optimal, when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then there is a layout on the side with again symmetric trimming along the edges.
Cropped edges are easy to hide the laying of solid tiles from the angle on the adjacent wall. If two cutting edges will be converged in the inner corner, then it is solved by grinding one of them. On external corners with such a task, a decorative corner copes well. More details will be told on.
- Show the desired "creative" and when planning vertical rows. So, the laying is not particularly advantageous, which is completed by a narrow section under the ceiling. It is better to plan one-piece tile on this place, especially since its upper edge is very often overlapped with a suspended or stretch ceiling.
But the narrow plot is quite possible to start the first from the floor - there he is minority, and the cutting edge of the tile will become at all visible In the corner between the floor and the wall. More precisely, this lower row is generally recommended to post the last, so there are no problems with the exact trimming. All this will be shown below.
However, other circumstances may affect the choice of the starting horizontal line. It can be the features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of sanitary devices. Let's say it is always recommended about the bath to have a tile so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the side of 20 ÷ 30 mm. This will not break the aesthetics of laying, and will bring vulnerable seam from the very "wet" site.
- When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of intercutric seams. Let it not seem like a trifle: when using not a particularly large tile, but on the wall of a large area - a difference is a lot of difference.
Too large seam thickness when laying on the wall is most often not required. Usually limited to the lumen at 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Especially since after grouting the seams, the visual effect of thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will seem wider.
- It is clear that when drafting schemes, the amount, dimensions and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements takes into account. If a full-compiled plan for each of the walls will be constantly at hand, then in the process of laying a much less chance to allow an error.
Some nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls
With tiles designed for walls, much easier than with outdoor. The indicators of its strength, abrasive stability, roughness, etc. go to the second plan, since they do not play a decisive role. It can be concentrated on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.
We will not tell about all the subtleties in detail - this is a separate topic. But some important points still should be emphasized.
Prices for ceramic tiles
ceramic tile
- A very large variety of formats is available. But you should not immediately chase behind the tile of large sizes. First, it does not happen everywhere appropriate. Secondly, with its laying there may be quite a few waste, and since it is usually notable, it turns out to be placed. And thirdly, the installation of such a cladding requires a certain experience, and the novice master can not cope with the task - any error will be in sight.
If the first independent laying of the tile is needed, it is better to proceed from the mean sizes, for example, up to 300 ÷ 400 mm long side.
- There must be water absorption not more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
- If there is a cladding of walls in unheated rooms or even on the street, you should look for the material marked by a snowflake icon - it is not afraid of freezing.
- In mandatory, all purchased packaging of the tiles of one species is checked for a match. The fact is that the one and the same article, but released into different shifts, can be somewhat different than coloring. Visually in the store it is most often noticed. But after laying on the surface, even a small difference can spoil a general view.
- Of course, try to buy a tile of the highest possible variety. More products are sorted at the factories, and products with distortions of forms go on sale as a second - or even third-rate. With them can be exhausted when laying.
- Sort the tiles manufacturers and calibra. It is clear that you always try to bring the size of the finished products to the stated standard. However, the specificity of ceramic production has not yet allowed to achieve a unique coincidence of the size of all tiles without exception. On the packing of the tile may be indicated by its caliber - alphabetically or digital designation, and put the plate with its decoding.
It is clear that the tile of the maximum accurate caliber has a higher price. But all preference should be given to it, since unjustified savings may entail an unsuccessful finish, and in total Total costs will be clearly "in minus".
- Without waste, the tiles do not succeed in any case. And to acquire the missing number of sometimes it becomes impossible - the right party may not be on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Typically proceed from 10% - with a competent layout and high-quality cutting of the material of this is sufficient. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the stock can be increased to 15% - waste in any way will be greater. But we immediately note that they are not recommended to contact diagonal installation without good experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, he will not be considered.
- Feel free to demand checks for all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that it will not be damaged during transportation. Yes, and obvious marriage sometimes comes across.
- Even the first-class tile of one party and the most accurate caliber is still at home to sort into several groups. The highest quality, with ideally coincident sizes, is best to postpone for the facing of the most notable responsible sites. Tile just worse - push off "on the periphery". And having the most significant distortion of sizes or with small defects - already used upwards to fill the sections along the corners or floor.
- The number of tiles is usually calculated by the piece. This can be done if a high-quality scheme is composed. And even more so it will have to do this when it is planned to use several varieties to create a special decorativeness of the interior.
But in the case when it is supposed to be facing the entire area with a material of one species, you can use the calculator that is located below. There it will be necessary to specify the area of \u200b\u200bthe decoration, the size of the tile and the width of the intercutric seam. Reserve 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing a layout principle.
The possibility of laying a new floor covering to the surface of the old allows you to skip several steps of repair and significantly saved on this process.
Examination of the old floor
If you do not remove the old tile from the floor in the bathroom then:
- it will not be necessary to acquire, perforator and a number of other tools;
- it will be possible to avoid laborious and dirty work on dismantling tiles and destruction of garbage;
- it will not be necessary to align the screed, which will reduce the repair time.
Before starting the repair of the floor in the bathroom, you need to examine each tile of the old coating. Initially, a visual inspection will be required. If the tile is covered with cracks or its surface was extended, then this indicates a poor clutch of the material with the base of the floor. Such a tile cannot serve as a solid basis for a new floor covering.
Important: When inspecting the floor, you need to pay attention to the state of intercutric seams. The outdated grout is poured with cement mortar or filled with tiled glue.
Tip: In order for the solution evenly filled the seams best use a trowel or a spatula.
The absence of defects of the appearance of the tile is not yet a complete proof of the coating strength. If when tapping a hammer, the floor element makes a ringing or rattling sound, it is poorly glued to the base. The old floor is suitable for laying the tile, only if there are only several defective tiles in the process of revision.
Preparation of old flooring to laying tiles
The elements of the floor are completely removed. The resulting holes are poured with a sandy cement mixture. Repair continues after complete hardening of the solution.
Tip: It is necessary to pay attention to the floor level in the bathroom, which, after the end of the repair, should remain below the threshold.
This recommendation is required to follow all those who want to know whether it is possible to put the tile on the tile on the floor in the bathroom and using its sidewalk variety for it. This type of tile at its height significantly exceeds similar materials intended for facing bathroom flooring. Its use is able to significantly increase the level of the floor, which will allow spilled water to easily flow into the residential premises.
The glazed surface of the ceramic tile is able to significantly reduce the adhesive properties of glue. To enhance the adhesion of the base of the floor with the adhesive substance, there are notches on it, the holes are drilled or the glazing is completely believed, up to ceramics. Depending on the selected method of exposure to the surface of the tile, the tools will be required:
- hammer and chisel;
- electric drill;
- bulgarian with a diamond disk.
The second factor that negatively affects the adhesive parameters of adhesive substances is dust. To fully remove the floor in the bathroom sweeping and vacuuming. A wet room cleaning is required, without the use of detergents.
From the surface of the floor, the invisible fat film is removed, otherwise it will become an obstacle to glue. The degreasing procedure consists in careful processing of each tile with gasoline or acetone. The same effect gives a three-time washing of a tile with caustic soda. With special care, the gaps between the tiles are washed, in which dust and fat are always accumulated in large numbers.
Floor primer
To improve the adhesion of the floor base and tile coating, its surface is ground. It is recommended to use the "Conconokontakt" primer, Ivsil Basis-Beton and Cerezite CN94. This finishing material, along with sand and cement, contains additional components. The presence of a pronounced roughness gives the plastered surface.
Tip: Frozen primer particles are removed with great difficulty, so before its use you need to close the walls, pipes and plumbing equipment.
Tip:
You need to buy primer at the rate of 300 g. Per 1 square meter. m. Square. To apply it will require a roller or brush. Using the tool, the primer is evenly distributed over the surface of the floor, trying not to leave untreated areas. The use of "concrete contact" simplifies the process of primer, because the surfaces treated with them acquire a pinkish shade.
After the primer, the floor must dry. This will require, about three hours. Rightly plastered surface of the floor after drying, in its texture, will resemble emery paper.
Children selection for tile
Answering positively to the question whether it is possible to put the floor tile on the old tile to obtain a durable structure, the floors are recommended to be covered with a thin layer of glue. Its thickness should not exceed 2 mm. This composition is applied to the surface as soon as the primer is dry. The next stage of repair is embarrassed after the adhesion of the adhesive mass.
- «IVSIL PROFIT»;
- "Cepese CM17";
- "Vetonit Renovation".
Tip: In order for the adhesive structure to be uniform, wash it best with the help of a building mixer.
"IVSIL PROFIT" is designed to fix porcelain stoneware. Its use allows you to always get a reliable floor covering from the tile. A similar result is guaranteed and if the tile coating is mounted on the base from the old tile.
The glue compositions "Cerezit CM16" and "Vetonit Renovation" have the highest adhesion characteristics. They are used to work with various complex surfaces. One of the options for their use can be the old floor coverings from the tile.
Installation of a new tile
Table laying technology on the tile has some differences. The initial row is placed with such a calculation so that the seams of old and new coatings do not coincide. For the application of glue, a spatula with a height of a comb cover 1.5 cm.
Adhesive weight evenly distribute the spatula throughout the surface of the tile. Then, it is pressed with force to the base of the floor. Between adjacent tiles leave a small gap - 2-3 mm.
Tip: The distance between the elements of the floor will be the same if in the process of installation between them put special "crosses".
After laying the entire tile, the tiles separators are removed and proceed to the processing of intercutric seams. For the final process, it will be necessary, suitable for color, grout and rubber spatula. After drying the grouts, the surface of the floor must be wiped with a wet sponge or well pressed with a soft cloth.
48 hours after mounting the tiled floor, it is possible to start it to exploit it intensively. This flooring will be durable, despite the fact that in the process of its creation several stages of repair work were missed. It is important that the styling of the tile on the old tile was made in accordance with all shown in this article, the rules.