Bath insulation Outside with your own hands a step-by-step instruction. Warming the beloved bath outside: Heat above all

In order to determine the temperature at the bottom as much as possible, and the cost of maintenance was as small as possible, the baths need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, outdoor insulation also protects the construction of direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which extends the service life of the building.

The order and sequence of work on outer insulation depends on the type of material used to build. For baths from a log - rounded or just a sterling - this is usually a thorough sealing of all the cracks and cracks: the wood sufficient thickness is well holding heat independently. Sometimes insulate the steam room and washing inside.

If the construction is used during construction, insulation, most likely, it is necessary, but how it depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how much the harsh of winter). Be sure to warm the baths built from bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to provide the necessary temperature mode the wall thickness should be at least 80cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. Because such baths always warm.

Almost all the insulation of the bath from the logs is reduced to a thorough embezzlement of the gaps. Even during the construction between the crowns, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but the wood dries over time, gives cracks, the new slots are formed, which must be regularly caught.

The finishing material is fastened to the crate, which is then covered with varnish or other protective compositions. If metal guides chose, they are fixed on special suspensions.

The insulation outside the baths from the logs are almost never used, and inside the insulated additionally only sometimes steam and washing. If you decide to be reinsured and insulated the construction, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor-or hydraulicer is placed on top of it. It is fixed with the help of planks, which later fastened the finish.

Warming Baths from a bar outside

The insulation of the bath from the bar outside is absolutely no different from the warming of a bath of a log. The building should also stand out, it also appears gaps that close in the same way.

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the bar. If your climatic zone is insufficient for your climatic zone, warming will be as follows:

brous lamp or metal guides (be sure to set them both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane);
heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, the thickness of the wall, and the type of thermal insulation);
moisture and windproof;
counterfeit (not necessarily, but a gap should remain between the protective film and finishing materials);
decoration Materials.

Outside the bath from the bar usually: the lining of any type, cutting board, siding, metal profile, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finish is covered with varnishes for outdoor work, sometimes pre-treated with color pigments, but many modern compositions have and tinting effect that, of course, conveniently.

If siding is used as the finishing finish, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish is necessary. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides that can be bought in the same place as siding. Guides are attached to special suspensions.

Warming of a brick bath outside

The brick bath will be insulated outside, it is necessary - this material has a high thermal conductivity, so that without external insulation, warm the room to the necessary condition will be extremely difficult. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture insulation, ventilation clearance, trimming.

For outdoor insulation, mineral wools are usually advised to use. They are not suitable according to the latest research - formaldehyde is distinguished, and for external insulation - one of the best options. Heat the brick bath outside can also be polystyrene foam plates, foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its drawback is a high price). For high-quality work, it is advised to put two layers of the rotor (with offset of half length) to reduce heat loss due to the overlap of the seams. But this method takes more time, and the materials for insulation leaves twice as much. Because the insulation is most often made in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are sick of reinforced tape.

For trimming of a brick bath outside, wooden finishing materials or siding can be used. There is another option of the outer finish: you can separate the bathing outside the plaster. This is possible if polystyrene plates, foam glass or foam plastic used as insulation. Then, on top of this material, the reinforcement grid is put, the primer is applied, and then the walls are placed.

You can insulate a brick bath by the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special M-shaped brackets are fixed on the wall (installation step - 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation plates are tightly installed.

For reliability, they can be strengthened with special dowels, but it is not necessary - the material should be very strong enough (therefore, the step of attachment of the guides per 1 cm is less than the width of the insulation - it keeps at the expense of elasticity). The joints of the plates are sampled by the reinforced tape, or are treated with special glue, put on top of the waterproofing film, fix it with placas. Now the guides are installed on the brackets that support the insulation and simultaneously serve as the basis for mounting the outer decoration. By such a scheme, you can also warm the baths from foam blocks, slag blocks or aerated concrete.

Decoration outside the baths from blocks

To bans from blocks, any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied. In addition, there is another option: to lay such a bath with decorative bricks, but this option of finishing and insulation is possible if a plus temperature will be supported in the bath all the time.

If you decide to put a bath from blocks with brick, you can lay out the second wall not close, and retreating centimeters 5-10. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will be much improved. The gap can be left blank, and you can fill with thermal insulating material: clay, sawdust, which passed special processing, etc.

In order for moisture in the interconnect space, there are small ventilation gaps in the outer wall, and for reliable fixation of the finishing wall, small sections of the fastening fittings are driven into the carrier.

Recently, such a finishing material is becoming increasingly becoming a block house, which eminently emitting a log wall. Block house is made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. Looking like a block house, it looks like it is made of wood.

Block Bathing Block-House

conclusions

The log cabin, built in Russian traditions, as she imposed does not need additional insulation of the walls, neither outside or inside.

When choosing an outdoor insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without harm to health, mineral wool can be used using phenol formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for. Polyfoam and polystyrene foam is also suitable.

With financial opportunities, the bath can be seen a metal block house, which will serve for many years.

When building a bath (no matter - brick, wooden, from clay-concrete blocks or any other material), it is necessary to worry not only about the construction of a strong and reliable design. No less important is thermal insulation - protection of the construction of heat loss. It is performed quite simply but according to certain rules.

This is a responsible nuance for any building, however for the bath, due to the need to hold high temperatures, it is relevant most of all.

It does not matter what kind of construction you have is a small "box" from blocks, covered by a professional flooring, or a whole house with recreation rooms - work is needed on both sides: both from the inside and outside the building.

1 On the importance and necessity of thermal insulation

The atmosphere, reigning in the steam room, can be characterized by two words: hot and humid. To be accurate, then the temperature in the bath (we will consider traditional Russian as an example) reaches the order of +80 degrees (and even above - to +90), and the humidity is about 70%.

Of course, that such conditions are not maintained, and it depends not only on the stove power. You can install even the most expensive unit, but if the bath is properly not insulated - it will not be too much.

The necessary conditions simply will not be able to create, and if it turns out - they will be very difficult to maintain: heated air will easily leave out. If you summarize the above, you can form the following list of shortcomings of the lack of insulation:

increased heating costs (no matter what exactly the oven - fuel will work much more, which means it will have to pay anymore);
acceleration of equipment wear (due to the fact that the furnace will have to load more);
slow heating steam.

In addition, it should not be forgotten about the negative impact of moisture and cold on the construction itself. No matter what it is - brick or from clay-concrete blocks - in any case, the building will deteriorate.

This is due to the fact that in winter (or in general - at a minus temperature) moisture, falling into micropores, as well as in cracks, joints and holes freeze, while increasing in volume. It is impossible to ignore.

And since such cycles of frost-thawing per season may occur not one hundred (!) - Literally in a few years, the surface of the walls will cover the grid of cracks, and over the years the process will accelerate.

Add here and sharp temperature difference occurring during the heating of the steam room: let's say, on the street -30, and the temperature of the walls quickly, literally per hour (depending on what the bath is made and how much powerful stove is worth it) will rise to +70 and higher. Of course, the difference is about a hundred degrees - will not be useful for the construction.

1.1 Why insulate outside?

When insulating the bath, performing with your own hands, many often believe that the first thing is required to isolate a steam room from the inside. This is true - because it is in this room and is required to maintain the desired temperature. It can serve with excellent material.

However, the use of only internal insulation displays the dew point - it turns out to be between the insulation and the surface of the walls. As a result, moisture begins to accumulate, and the construction itself, again, remains unprotected.

So in addition to the internal work, do not forget that the insulation of the bath is outside - the question is no less important and relevant. In addition, additional thermal insulation will not be superfluous - the use of another layer of insulation outside the walls will further improve the microclimate inside the steam. For the word is quite simple

2 What to warm?

For insulation, the baths from the inside can be used not by any insulation - the materials that are afraid of moisture is not recommended. And if applied - then with a serious and properly used waterproofing.

Outside, things are better - the effects of such a number of moisture is not, and therefore the choice of materials that can be used is increasing. For walls (no matter what kind of bath is a brick, or folded from clay-concrete blocks), most relevant to use any insulation from the list below:

Minvata.
Foam / polystyrene foam.

The first two material - can be applied with your own hands: such insulators do not require special knowledge and experience. The third insulation will require specialist services. Consider more detailed each of the mentioned insulators and will figure it out how to use them with your own hands for the insulation of the walls.

2.1 Application of Minvati (video)

2.2 Isolation with mineral wool insulation

The insulation of the Minvata is applied for several decades, and judging by the fact that the amount of products on such a basis continues to grow - the demand for it is still available. Alternative to Minvate is.

Despite the fact that now there are many other insulators, better, more reliable and simpler applications - such materials are still relevant.

For sale Minvat usually in rolls or in stoves. For the walls, of course, it is more convenient for the second option - rolls are better to use for horizontal surfaces. In addition, it can be used for

Production thermal conductivity is not the best: this indicator is located in the 0.04 W / MK region (depending on the type and brand). However, since the insulation will be attached from the outside - this is not a significant drawback - it is simply possible to use a thick layer. But some properties of Minvati make it not the most successful material:

bad resistance to moisture - under the influence of moisture, the material comes, is flattened;
increased complexity of work (compared to foam);
the need to use protective equipment for skin and face.

Of the tangible advantages (except relative low cost), it is possible to single out the fact that minvat can be mounted even on the uneven surface of the walls, having protrusions and height differences.

The process itself, if you perform it with your own hands, looks roughly as follows (the list of stages of the same for both the brick bath and for construction from the ceramzite-concrete blocks):

The surface of the walls is checked - they should not be cracks, chips, holes. If such are available - they should be seeded with plaster.
Installing a wooden crate.
A vapor barrier film is glued onto the wall (this item can be skipped).
The insulation is stacked between the crate.
The waterproofing film is stretched over the crate (with the insulation of the Minvata, this is a mandatory nuance).
Installation of facing material is performed.

2.3 Application of foam (video)

2.4 Isolation with foam or polystyrene foam

Insulators from the category of gas-filled plastics are also known for a long time. The brightest and popular representative is the usual foam. This insulation is extremely easy to use - the installation of blocks is easy to perform with their own hands, even if before that you know did not know exactly how it is done.

It is not surprising that it is this material that is widely and universally used for isolation of various parts of buildings, including how.

The more qualitative and effective "fellow" is extruded polystyrene foam. This insulation is distinguished by the best thermal conductivity (approximately 0.03-0.035 against 0.04 in foam) and full resistance to moisture. By the way, it can be done with his participation.

The materials themselves are similar outwardly, have a small weight (that, again, simplifies work with your own hands) and are absolutely identical in terms of application. By the way, as for the work itself, such a insulation does not require any precautions (as minvat).

However, it is required to have a perfectly smooth surface for laying blocks, which complicates the process somewhat. The sequence of actions itself is like this (the same for brick buildings, and for design from clay-concrete blocks):

The surface of the walls is checked - they should not be cracks, chips, holes. If any - they should be embedded by plaster, then applied.
The surface of the walls is grounded at least 1 time.
Starting from the bottom angle (any) and moving the sideways, the foam / eppt is glued to the surface on a special adhesive solution (sold there, where and the insulation itself).
Each of the blocks is additionally fixed with self-drawing (about 5 pieces per sheet).
The joints between the sheets are sampled by scotch, or they are fought. As an option - they can be simply shuffled.
Waterproofing film is stretched over the insulation on the crate.
Installation of a facing layer and further finish.

2.5 Application PPU (video)

2.6 Isolation using sprayed PPU

Relatively new insulation technology is spraying polyurethane foam. This isolator refers to liquid - it is obtained by mixing two components. Cooking is done right at the place of work, in a special installation.

The capacity of such aggregates is equipped with a stirrer - to maintain the desired consistency of the solution. More qualitative and expensive models are also equipped with heating (necessary for the same purposes).

You can stop on this material. The insulation itself can safely be called perfect: it is light, not afraid of moisture or any other negative factors (rodents, mold), has a minimal thermal conductivity (in the 0.025 W / MK region).

In addition, the surface of the ceramzite concrete (or any other) walls does not require alignment, and the insulation layer obtained as a result - monolithic does not have seams and joints.

Its most basic minus is the impossibility of applying with your own hands: the above-mentioned special installation is expensive. Yes, and the service itself by spraying also costs himself.

To get acquainted with the sequence of actions when using this technology:

The surface is checked for cracks, chips. In the presence - they are embarrassed by plaster.
PUPP is prepared.
Mounted case on the wall.
PPU is sprayed on the surface.
On top of the insulation, on the crate, the installation of cladding and further finish is carried out.

Features of the technology of outdoor insulation bath
Wooden Bath Warming Outside
How to insulate a brick bath outside?
Features of the insulation of the frame bath outside
Features and Technology of Bani Foundation
Features of the insulation of walls baths from the inside

Planning the construction of your own bath or construction already in full swing? Maybe you are already the happy owner of the steam room, but feel that it is urgent to improve something or redo?

The insulation of the bath consists of several layers: crates of the main walls, two or more layers of insulation, waterproofing, crates and decorative finishes.

Keep in mind that the effective and correct warming of the bath outside and from the inside is the key to high-quality steam warning, heat retention and economical fuel consumption. Features of thermal insulation baths directly depend on the material that was used to build the construction, be it tree, brick, sandwich panels or, for example, slag block. Depending on this, it is necessary to select the appropriate insulation.

Features of the technology of outdoor insulation bath

Wall insulation scheme outside.

The main task, which should effectively solve the insulation of the walls and the foundation of the bath outside, is the insulation of building structures from direct contact with cold street air, preventing the appearance of drafts indoors and protect the baths from atmospheric precipitation, which are negatively reflected on the quality and durability of building materials.

The technique, in accordance with which the insulation of the foundation and walls of the bath outside, depends, as already mentioned, on which material was used during construction as the main: foam blocks, sandwich panels, wood or brick. Regardless which one bath you are going to insulate, prepare the following materials and tools:

a hammer;
hacksaw;
roulette;
construction stapler;
laner knife;
rake for the crate;
insulation;
vapor insulation film with aluminum coating;
thermal film or ordinary polyethylene;
self-adhesive tape for foil;
nails;
boards.

Wooden Bath Warming Outside

For the insulation of a wooden bath outside, as a rule, an interventical insulation is used. In most cases it is a jute.

Scheme of the ceiling device in the bath.

Excellent interaction with moisture, low thermal conductivity coefficient - these are the main advantages of this material. And if you add special materials to the harness with the content of flax fibers, then elasticity, elasticity and durability will be added to its positive characteristics.

The insulation of the walls of the bath outside by means of jute, flange fiber or flattery is performed according to the following technology:

the interventic insulation is stacked;
joints are processed;
a jute fiber is stuffed with a seal. It is necessary to be caught from the bottom and gradually move around the perimeter. Otherwise, the log house can turn;
finished seams are processed using sealant.

How to insulate a brick bath outside?

Wall insulation scheme in the bath.

High thermal conductivity of this material requires an additional heat insulation device. Otherwise, you will need to either build enough thick walls, or spend more money on energy.

The insulation of the walls of the brick bath outside involves the use of the technology of the ventilated facade. After the insulation is made outside, the wall will be a kind of cake consisting of bricks, insulation, waterproofing layer and external finish.

If you are planning to insulate the walls of a brick bath outside, pay attention to mineral wool. It is best suited for such work.

The insulation of the walls of the brick bath outside suggests the following technology:

it is strengthened by the corner brackets to the wall;
there is insulation between the carbon mats;
the joints between mats are sampled with a special adhesive solution;
the walls are covered with a waterproofing layer;
in the corners, the installation of special guides for additional retention of thermal insulation material is performed.

If you are going to warm the walls of a brick bath outside, you can also use polystyrene foaming for this, however, it is not suitable for insulation from the inside, as it is toxic and unstable to high temperatures.

Features of the insulation of the frame bath outside

If you need to insulate the walls of a frame bath, it is best to use foam for this. In this case, the ease of this material plays a decisive role. Although there are other advantages, for example, water-repellent properties and low thermal conductivity.

It is possible to warm the frame bathing from the outside using foam plates, without even having working skills with this material. The insulation must simply be glued to the wall or fasten with the help of self-tapping screws, and on top to apply plaster or decorative facade trim. The lack of foam in its fragility, in view of which it is necessary to be especially careful when working with this material.

Features and Technology of Bani Foundation

The insulation of the bath from the inside must begin with floors. However, before this you need to perform the insulation of the foundation. If this is not done, regardless of how insulated and reliable will be the floors of your bath, cold air will still penetrate inside.

If we consider the foundation from the point of view of possible heat loss, it can be divided into 2 zones: underground part and base. Accordingly, the insulation of the foundation of the steam room can be performed in 2 ways. The underground part is insulated by a layer of clay, the height of which should be about 2 times more than the thickness of the walls. Then the base from the outer side is trimmed with mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam.

Technologically, the insulation of the foundation does not represent a special complexity. It is permissible to use 1 of 2 possible options. The insulation of the foundation is performed to the level of soil freezing. This parameter is determined separately for each region. When installing heat-insulating material to a large depth, the effectiveness of the use of the insulation is significantly reduced. In the angular zones, the heat-insulating layer must be increased by 1.4-1.6 times.

If the foundation insulation is performed using extruded polystyrene foam, in the additional laying of the protective coating for the waterproofing layer, which would protect it from mechanical damage, there is no need.

In the process of preparation for the fill of the foundation, the trench and formwork for filling the foundation are made wider than the calculated size on the thickness of the sheet, and even 2 sheets of polystyrene insulation are better. The insulation is attached to the surface of the foundation after removing the formwork. Part of the foundation that rises above the ground can be separated by a decorative stone or tile directly by thermal insulation material. On this, the insulation of the foundation of the bath is completed.

Features of the insulation of walls baths from the inside

Warming scheme by steamizol.

Be sure to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside. Warming is performed depending on what material the walls are made.

The panel walls of the bath suggest that the thermal insulation material is located between the vapor and waterproofing layers. The main requirement for the material with which the insulation of the panel walls of the bath from the inside will be carried out is its ease. Most often used mineral wool, reed slabs or polystyrene foam. Panel walls from the inside are trimmed with plastic, and cheaper options, for example, fiberboard or waterproof plywood are possible.

Choosing the thermal insulation material, with which the warming walls of the bath walls will be insulated from the inside, it is necessary to take into account the climatic features of your region. Thus, in very cold climatic zones, cartotic or fibrolite plates have been well established.

Only 10 cm of a frame wall of a bath with a cartotic insulation in its heat insulating characteristics correspond to 50 cm of solid brickwork. In warmer regions for insulation, it is recommended to use sawdust, cement, chips, gypsums from the inside. Mixed with lime or mine gypsum in a ratio of 10: 1 fall asleep with a layer of 20 cm thick into the space between the inner and outer walls.

In addition to insulation, from the inside, the frame wall needs a steam-pool device. Polyethylene film, pergamine or rubberoid is flattened between the boardwalk and thermal insulation layer.

The process of insulation of walls from the inside with the use of fibrous insulation is carried out as follows:

Installed a special fastener frame. The frame is made from 50x50 bars, which are vertically nailed to the inner walls of the steam room with a gap of 55 cm.

The insulation is installed, after which the joints between the insulation and the frame are stuck with the help of construction tape. Next, the installation of a foil insulation is performed, and the wall pane is stuffed on the frame.

The insulation of the walls of the bath bar from the inside is performed using the insulation of different thickness. So, if a layer of 10 cm is needed for the outer wall, then for the inner enough and 5 cm.

Mandatory condition - the creation of an air layer with a thickness of 3-5 cm between the thermal insulating layer and the wall. The fibrous insulation is recommended to lay a double layer. The inner layer does not imply a foil.

Bath insulation Outside and inside: features and technologies

The insulation of the bath outside and inside is a very important stage of construction and operation of the bath. Competent insulation will make the bath as comfortable and warm as possible.

Heat insulation Baths from the inside and outside

The main advantage of a good bath - her ward should warm well and keep warm long. Therefore, in contrast to most residential buildings, the bath is preferably insulated outside, and from the inside. In the insulation, a bath is needed, built from any material: stone (made of brick or gas-fuette blocks), from a tree or condensed with sandwich panels.

Materials for bath heat insulation

Despite the fact that the bath is a rather specific structure and / or room, it is insulated by the same materials that are used for thermal insulation of any other buildings and premises. However, on the bath there are some limitations and features of the use of certain insulation. This is explained by the special temperature regime in which it is operated.

So, for internal insulation, baths, as a rule, use mineral insulation (basalt fiber, mineral and glass wool). They are durable; moistureproof and fireproof; Do not rot and do not damage pests. They are sold both in the form of mats and in rolls.

Nice thermal insulation properties have inexpensive organic fibrous insulation materials from peat, reel, wood waste and insulation based on foamed plastic (foam, EPPS). However, many fibrous organic insulation are susceptible to rotting and fear of fire, and the foam and polystyrene foam during combustion is distinguished by hazardous chemicals. Therefore, it is desirable to apply them only for the internal thermal insulation of the utility rooms (pre-tribades, changing room, lounge) and for external insulation.

Plates of organic insulation before use need to be processed by antiseptic compositions. For example, the reeds are impregnated with a 3% composition of the iron vapor. With the outer insulation of the walls of the mats from organic insulation from two sides, it is advisable to lay asbetic plates to protect from from fire.

Outdoor insulation

How to insulate the bath depends on what material it is built. In different ways, thermal insulation of frame, stone, wooden buildings, separately standing and attached baths. In a special way, frame baths, built of sandwich panels, are insulated - these structures can not be insulated with heavy materials.

Stone bath (brick, foam blocks, slagoblocks, aerated concrete blocks). In such a bath, it is easiest to maintain heat, applying the technology of the ventilated facade: the framework of its external walls is mounted, in which mineral wool plates are inserted. The same frame serves as the basis for facing materials - siding, lining, etc. It can be insulated with a stone bathing outside can be a foam or eppt-plates, and then plastering or bonded in a different way.
Wooden sauna (log or bar). Wooden structures with time give shrinkage, and gaps arise between the crowns. For thermal insulation in this case, jute materials are usually used - Lena felt; Linovatin - or the so-called "construction" red moss. Unlike other organic insulation, this natural insulation does not rot, and it does not flash when there is not flashed, and the slower is inserted between the crowns during the construction of a log of a log or bar. The second time, the log house is treated when it is fully folded: the jute material or moss is tightly driven into the joints between the bars or logs, sealing it with a special tool - panty - and a hammer. They begin to pure a log house around the perimeter, starting from the lower crown so that it does not flip. Sealant is applied on top of the regular seams.
Some features have thermal insulation of the bath assembly in the framework technology. The walls of the frame can be filled with an arbolite mass (a mixture of wood sawdust, gypsum and lime, impregnated with iron sulfate solution) or lay inside the middle thickness of the ride, the legitimate gaps with red moss, clay with sawdust, etc. Externally, frame structures are insulated with foam or polystyrene foam plates. To increase the fire resistance of the construction, the insulation can be protected from one or both sides with thin asbestos plates.

General scheme of internal warming of a bath building

Inner heat insulation

The floor in the bath is insulated in the same way as in any other room, the difference lies only in the "reinforced" waterproofing. The best flooring for the floor in brick baths and baths from blocks is a tile: it quickly warms up and no longer cools. The peculiarities of the thermal insulation of the wooden bath floor are that the boards for the equipment of the draft, and even more so the finish coating, they are not recommended to impregnate with antiseptic and other protective chemical compositions.
Walls. In auxiliary premises (rest room, changing room, pre-tribades), you can warm the walls in any way suitable for the inner insulation of the walls. However, in the steam room, given its special temperature mode, framework insulation is recommended using mineral wool. The thickness of the insulation mats in the stone bath should be twice as much as with the insulation of similar walls of any other room in a brick building and stone. In the bath from a thick bar, the thickness of the insulation layer may be small. The insulation of the insulation of the wall is cured with wooden clapboard. Wooden trim makes in the baths of bricks - so that the heat remained longer - and in the wooden baths. Heating, wooden wall covering pleasantly smells, creating indoors unique comfort. Coniferous boards are isolated by resin when heated, therefore, it is preferable to sneak the walls with lining wood with lining wood - alder, limes, aspens.
Ceiling. In wooden and frame baths, the ceiling is insulated in the same way as the walls, inserting insulating mats into a wooden frame. Do it better immediately when building a bath. In stone baths and baths from the slag block, the ceiling is better to warm outside (from the roof side) using mineral, basalt cotton wool or glass gamble. Do not forget that the chimney output locations need to be deceived by fire-resistant mastic or to protect with non-combustible asbestos materials.

Inner ceiling insulation

Warming doors

The competent thermal insulation of the bath is impossible without the installation of "warm" doors: if after the pair you will go to the pre-banner, in which drafts are walking, for a short time and cold. To reduce heat losses, bath doors are made narrow and high and as close as possible "drive them" to the door frame. Additional insulation will provide a two-layer door.

It consists of two wooden or steel canvases connected by bars so that a mineral wool or other non-combustible seal can be attached between them. Wooden double door is easy to make yourself. From the outside it can be additionally seen with a thick foam or minvat, and over the insulation to climb dermatitin.

How to insulate the bath from the inside and outside

For insulation, the baths from the inside and outside are using the same materials as for the thermal insulation of other premises and buildings. However, the thermal insulation of the bath has its own characteristics that need to be considered when it is insulation.

Warming Baths from the inside: heat insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures

How to make a bath insulation from the inside? What insulation should prefer and how to apply it? How to separate the floor and walls of the steam and pregnant? Let's try to figure out.

The appearance of the log cabin any insulated facade will only ruin. Let's come up better how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside.

To understand how and what to insulate the walls of the baths from the inside, let's first imagine the conditions in which materials will be well.

High humidity and in the steam room, and in the washing department (unless, of course, it is a separate room). In the pre-jacket, the air is also hardly dry. Conclusions are obvious: the insulation either should not be hygroscopic, or should be protected by reliable vapor and waterproofing.
The temperature in the steam room can reach 100 and more degrees. Polyfoam and extruded polystyrene with such strong heating are guaranteed to highlight substances into the atmosphere that will definitely not add you health.

Please note: for the same reason, the finishing materials for the wage never include linoleum or plastic panels. Wall panels, in addition to the release of harmful substances, are quite capable of deforming at 80 - 90 degrees.

The essential part of the heat at high temperature is lost not only due to convection, but also in the form of infrared radiation. What does it say about? The fact that our insulation scheme of the bath inside should include a reflective layer - foil or material with a foil surface.

Folgized insulation reflects 90% of thermal radiation.

The insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside affects, of course, the material of these walls. What options are possible?

Concrete, stone, brick

Warming in this case must. Moreover, not only for reasons of heat conservation: constantly wetting walls with temperature fluctuations in a wide range will be quite quickly collapsed.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the thickness of the walls and the climatic zone. In general, it is recommended a decade-cated layer.

How to insulate a wooden bath from the inside? And is it necessary in principle?

The situation is controversial. On the one hand, it will definitely not be worse from insulation; On the other hand - a log or a boll itself is not the worst material for the walls of the steam and pre-bankers.

Thicker walls are either not separated from the inside in general, or protected by waterproofing and clapboard. The lamp is needed only when the walls have noticeable dawns.

Usually, the horizontal bands of the vapor-hydro insulating material are sewn with a stapler with a five-point meter overlap. Bottoms are the first to be laid: the overheet must prevent the water flow under the material.

Attention: Do not forget about the heat and do not use polyethylene as vapor barrier.

Modern vapor insulation materials are able to transfer the temperature of the steam without negative consequences.

So, what to insulate the bath from the inside?

Optimal insulation - basalt wool. Used rigid mats; As mentioned, in the absolute majority of cases, you can recommend a thickness of 10 centimeters. For the ceiling, it makes sense to increase the thickness of the layer to 15-20 centimeters: most of the heat in the steam room is lost through the roof and the ceiling.

What else will required?

Obsek. The most durable option for a stone or brick bath is a frame from the profile for plasterboard. Usually used CD ceiling profile; On the perimeter of each wall, edging the UD guide profile. Direct suspensions are attached every 0.6 - 0.8 meters; The step between profiles is made on a centimeter - two less than the width of the insulation plate.

But in a wooden bath you can save: the price of the row of the bar is somewhat lower than that of the profile; In this case, the durability of the solution will still be limited by the material of the walls themselves.

Hydroral insulation with foil. We need not only impenetrable for water and steam, but also heat-resistant material. Fortunately, the modern market can offer a lot of solutions of the type we need: For example, foam foamed polypropylene foam NPP LF is designed for a temperature of up to +150 degrees.

It not only protects the walls from dampness and reflects radiant warmth, but also, like any foamed material, will further reduce heat loss. According to the manufacturer, the 3-millimeter foamier layer provides the same degree of thermal insulation as the 150-millimeter bar.

Useful: for a bath of logs or a small thickness bar, this material can also serve as the main insulation.

Warming inside the bath will be hidden by a layer of finishing. Traditionally, wooden linden or aspen is used for it. These wood species do not burn even at high temperatures, racks for rotting and long retain the initial appearance.

Lipping lining, unlike most wood breeds, does not darken over time.

Paul, Doors and windows

When we are talking about how to insulate the bath from the inside with his own hands, it is usually implied to an increase in the thermal resistance of the ceiling and walls. However, drafts and cold floors are also able to take away a lot of heat (see also the article

How are these problems solved?

Floor insulation on the loggia: the choice of materials and the order of work).

How are these problems solved?

On the perimeter of the door to the steer, it is enough to make a framing of thick felt. It reliably closes the slots through which can be through.
The frames of wooden windows in the steam room, the washing department and the pre-tribades are enough to warm the cotton wool. The insulation of plastic windows is reduced to the patter with foam-adhesive strips: plastic is not put in the steam room with its high temperatures, and in the other areas of thermal decomposition of polymers can not be afraid.
How and how to insulate the floor? The instruction depends on its type:

The surface of the wooden flowing floor is covered with clay. On the carefully crumpled backfill the boards are laid out.
Installation of concrete leases begins with the digging of a half-meter pit.

Then below are the following layers: 5 sand centimeters; 20 centimeters of foam; 5 centimeters of concrete with foam crumb in proportion 1: 1; Waterproofing (for a relatively cool floor, a polyethylene or even runneroid can be applied); 5 centimeters of concrete with vermiculite (natural mineral with low thermal conductivity) in a 1: 1 ratio; Reinforced 5-centimeter screed.

A bias for water flow is done when pouring a screed; Top on the lags is stacked by the boardwalk.

Floor insulation on the loggia: the choice of materials and the order of work).

How are these problems solved?

On the perimeter of the door to the steer, it is enough to make a framing of thick felt. It reliably closes the slots through which can be through.
The frames of wooden windows in the steam room, the washing department and the pre-tribades are enough to warm the cotton wool. The insulation of plastic windows is reduced to the patter with foam-adhesive strips: plastic is not put in the steam room with its high temperatures, and in the other areas of thermal decomposition of polymers can not be afraid.
How and how to insulate the floor? The instruction depends on its type:

The surface of the wooden flowing floor is covered with clay. On the carefully crumpled backfill the boards are laid out.
Installation of concrete leases begins with the digging of a half-meter pit.

A bias for water flow is done when pouring a screed; Top on the lags is stacked by the boardwalk.

How are these problems solved?

On the perimeter of the door to the steer, it is enough to make a framing of thick felt. It reliably closes the slots through which can be through.
The frames of wooden windows in the steam room, the washing department and the pre-tribades are enough to warm the cotton wool. The insulation of plastic windows is reduced to the patter with foam-adhesive strips: plastic is not put in the steam room with its high temperatures, and in the other areas of thermal decomposition of polymers can not be afraid.
How and how to insulate the floor? The instruction depends on its type:

The surface of the wooden flowing floor is covered with clay. On the carefully crumpled backfill the boards are laid out.
Installation of concrete leases begins with the digging of a half-meter pit.

A bias for water flow is done when pouring a screed; Top on the lags is stacked by the boardwalk.

It is useful: on the floor, the temperature is lower, and the tile in the steam room is usually not warmed up to an uncomfortable temperature. However, it is still better to provide peculiar wooden footrests: it will be much more pleasant to bathe.

Walls and ceiling

What to insulate the bath inside - we found out. What is the sequence of operations? Are there any subtleties in the upcoming work?

In general, no. We warm the bath from the inside just like any other room (read also an article

Insulation

What and how to insulate the loggia from the inside). We will only have to pay higher attention to the reliability of vaporizolation.

The distance from its surface to the draft wall or ceiling should be slightly larger than the thickness of the insulation. In the case of using galvanized profiles, this distance is regulated by suspensions; The bar is nailed through the lining (for example, segments of the same bar). You can, of course, use galvanized suspensions and for a wooden crate.

In case you have never worked with plasterboard, tell about the profile installation sequence.

On the perimeter of the wall or ceiling is fastened with a step of no more than 60 centimeters, the UD guide profile. To the logs or bruster it can be mounted by self-sales; For a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axis of the CD profiles are placed (the distance between them, we will remind, should allow the insulation plates without trimming). Then over the axes with a step of 0.6 - 0.8 meters the suspensions are attached to the wall.
CD profiles are installed and attached to the suspensions with screws for metal with a length of 0.9 centimeters. The free edges of the suspension bend.

Insulation

Basalt Wobile Plates Mispidka are inserted between profiles or bars. Actually, the insulation of the loggia or ventfassada is performed in the same way: the installation procedure you probably saw from the side more than once.

Several tips, however, should give.

On the question of how to insulate the bath from the inside, any engineer of labor protection will give an unambiguous answer: in glasses and respirator or marlevant bandage. The fiber of the heaters of bats and irritate the mucous membranes.

What and how to insulate the loggia from the inside). We will only have to pay higher attention to the reliability of vaporizolation.

In case you have never worked with plasterboard, tell about the profile installation sequence.

On the perimeter of the wall or ceiling is fastened with a step of no more than 60 centimeters, the UD guide profile. To the logs or bruster it can be mounted by self-sales; For a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axis of the CD profiles are placed (the distance between them, we will remind, should allow the insulation plates without trimming). Then over the axes with a step of 0.6 - 0.8 meters the suspensions are attached to the wall.
CD profiles are installed and attached to the suspensions with screws for metal with a length of 0.9 centimeters. The free edges of the suspension bend.

Insulation

Several tips, however, should give.

On the question of how to insulate the bath from the inside, any engineer of labor protection will give an unambiguous answer: in glasses and respirator or marlevant bandage. The fiber of the heaters of bats and irritate the mucous membranes.

In case you have never worked with plasterboard, tell about the profile installation sequence.

On the perimeter of the wall or ceiling is fastened with a step of no more than 60 centimeters, the UD guide profile. To the logs or bruster it can be mounted by self-sales; For a brick or concrete wall, you will have to use screws with plastic dowels.
The axis of the CD profiles are placed (the distance between them, we will remind, should allow the insulation plates without trimming). Then over the axes with a step of 0.6 - 0.8 meters the suspensions are attached to the wall.
CD profiles are installed and attached to the suspensions with screws for metal with a length of 0.9 centimeters. The free edges of the suspension bend.

Insulation

Several tips, however, should give.

On the question of how to insulate the bath from the inside, any engineer of labor protection will give an unambiguous answer: in glasses and respirator or marlevant bandage. The fiber of the heaters of bats and irritate the mucous membranes.

Important: To ensure reliable vapor barrier, it is not enough to just consolidate the material. You need to cry all the joints with the same aluminum scotch: then the moisture guaranteed will not fall to the insulation.

Clapboard

How to warm the bath from the inside, we seem to figure out. How to make insulated room beautiful? Let's start with the preparation of instruments and additional materials that will be required to cover the walls.

Drill - screwdriver.

Drill - screwdriver.
Electrolzik or disk saw.
Rasp. They have to customize and process the edges of the lining.
Carbon coal. It is not worth noting a fairly wide eye board.
Reference and level. Vertical and horizontal better check on them.
Metal kleimers for wooden lining. Of course, galvanized: rusty wall divorces will not decorate.

Insulation balcony by foam: features of work).

Drill - screwdriver.
Electrolzik or disk saw.
Rasp. They have to customize and process the edges of the lining.
Carbon coal. It is not worth noting a fairly wide eye board.
Reference and level. Vertical and horizontal better check on them.
Metal kleimers for wooden lining. Of course, galvanized: rusty wall divorces will not decorate.

Warming a bath from the inside: what and how to warm the walls with their own hands, the scheme, instruction, photo, price and video lessons

When construction work is close to completion, the question arises how it is better to insulate the bath. Choosing a suitable material and methods for its laying, insulation performing technology - very responsible moments.

How to choose a heater

What is better to insulate the bath? For this, natural or synthetic materials are used.

kukushkin Luck;
moss red;
linen panel;
hemp hemp
sphagnum.

Kukushkin Len - one of the natural types of insulation

These materials do not require serious material costs, highly environmentally friendly and will help create a special atmosphere in the bath, filling the inner space by natural natural flavors.

The main disadvantages of organic materials that need to be considered, choosing, which insulation is better to warm the bath:

dISTRIBUTY MATERIAL;
significant labor costs;
the need to constantly update the insulation.

It is necessary to protect against small rodents, birds and insects.

Many homeowners believe that it is better to insulate the baths better than synthetic materials that are not subjected to rotting and are not damaged by rodents.

Jute Felt

How best to insulate a bath outside or from the inside? Jute felt can be used as a interventional insulation bath. This is an organic natural material for the manufacture of which is used vegetable fiber.

Lena felt is applied not only for thermal insulation, but also for the output of excess moisture from the inner space of the bath

To improve operational qualities in the jute fiber, flax fiber is added. The result is a flanutin or flask felt. The form of the material is released - bobbins. This allows you to choose the insulation to the logs of different diameters.

Lodgeal felt is applied not only for thermal insulation, but also for outdrawal moisture from the inner space of the bath. It is a durable material that will not spoil any animals.

Ceramzit as insulation

Ceramzite is a bulk material of natural origin. It is granules having a porous structure. Ceramzite is often used for bathing and other buildings due to the following qualities:

moisture resistance;
relatively small proportion;
high strength granules;
stability of granules to mechanical damage;
durability;
low price.

Floor insulation ceramzit

Working with clay is easy. Together with him, other bulk materials can be used.

Synthetic insulation

Currently, synthetic insulation are produced in large quantities and may be the following types:

polystyrene foam extruded (platesxps) or ordinary;
styrofoam;
mineral wool;
glasswater.

Floor insulation in a foam bath

Each material has unique properties:

Polystyrene foam provides reliable heat insulation. In this case, the material has a low cost and a small proportion. It should be borne in mind that the usual polystyrene foam is flashed and easily deformed under the influence of high temperatures. Therefore, in the bath it is used to insulate the pre-banker, utility rooms, relaxation rooms. In the wettrent and pariration department, the polystyrene can not be applied.
For the bath it is better to choose the plates or extruded polystyrene foam. This material has a hermetic cellular structure and not very large proportion. XPS plates are resistant to moisture, compression and high loads. It gives them durability and reliability during operation.
The foam is applied to the outer insulation of a bath built of brick or slag blocks. It is glued on the outer vertical surfaces of the structure. The plaster and finishing material are applied on top. Polyfoam is easily flammable, so it cannot be applied to the interior in the bath.
The main material for the production of mineral wool is molten rocks or waste of metallurgical production. Therefore, the cost of this insulation is low in comparison with other similar materials.

Mineral Wool Bath Warming

As a result, a heater is obtained, which has such positive properties as:

Working with such a insulation is easy and convenient. The service life is high enough. Therefore, solving the question of how to warm the bath, you can stop your choice on sheets or mats from mineral wool.

The insulation of mineral wool allows you to provide such conditions in the bath as:

low thermal conductivity;
high sound insulation;
hydrophobicity.

Glasswater is made by interlacing sophisticated fibers of inorganic glass

The main thing is to remember that mineral wool is easily subject to mechanical damage. Therefore, when it is used, you need to act carefully and neatly.

The glass gamble is made by interlacing the sophisticated fibers of the inorganic glass. High thermal insulation properties are provided due to the large amount of air in the finished material.

The cost of glass gamble is small. It is sold in rolled and / or tiled form. The thickness of the glass gambles is different, so it is always easy to choose the desired option.

Preparatory work

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all the additional materials necessary to work with it, prepare the tools. For insulation, the bath may need:

construction knife;
roulette;
level;
a hammer;
brushes and / or spatulas;
sledgehammer;
construction mixer;
capacity for kneading solutions;
workwear, mittens, rags.

When the insulation is selected, it is necessary to purchase all the additional materials necessary to work with it, prepare the tools

The list of everything you need is better to compile after it is defined, the better the walls of the baths, the floor or the ceiling will be insulated, and all the necessary materials will be purchased.

How to insulate the bath from the inside

Reflecting on what is better to insulate the bath from the inside, it should be remembered about a high level of moisture content in the inner space. Therefore, vaporizolation must be ensured. This will save the integrity and main useful properties of the insulation. The walls of the room will less collapse under the influence of moisture and high temperatures.

What is better to insulate the walls of the bath? Aluminum foil is considered the most convenient vaporizolytor for the bath. This material protects the heat insulator from destruction and helps to save heat in the inner space of the bath. Interlostic seams after applying foil should be sealed with a special metallized scotch.

On a note! In different compartments of the bath there is a different level of moisture and temperature. Therefore, the solution is better to warm the bath inside depends primarily from a particular room.

Various insulation applies, their laying technology is also different.

Walls in the steam room

Walls in the steam room are exposed to high temperature and humidity. Therefore, how much better to insulate the steam room in the bath should be considered in detail.

Initially, the lamp is attached to the walls. It is best done using dry rails and / or a thin timber. The resulting cells must be even and the same in size. They will be covered with fiberglass.

Aluminum Foil insulation

Thermal insulator is stacked over the fiberglass. The most reliable for the steam is considered basalt fiber. The last layer is a vapor polypoletor. For this, an aluminum foil is applied.

When all the work is completed, the walls are decorative. To do this, you can use lining from durable wood varieties. It should be remembered that if the inner space of the bath is not divided into several rooms, insulation according to the described scheme is carried out everywhere.

Basalt fiber is considered the most reliable for the steam

How to insulate the ceiling

The better to insulate the ceiling in the bath depends on the purpose of a particular room. Hygroscopic material in the oil and / or steam room should not be used. In the wax or in the pre-banker, it is possible to use a polyethylene film or kraft paper for vapor barrier.

On a note! To improve air circulation between the vapor insulation and the finishing material, it is necessary to leave the ventilation gap (clearance) not more than 2 cm.

This will accelerate the drying of the trim after using the bath, otherwise the abundant moisture provokes rotting material, and it will have to be replaced.

How to insulate the floor

Significant heat loss in the bath occurs not only through the ceiling and walls, but through the floor, especially when the bath is used in the cold season - in winter, in the fall, early spring.

To figure out how and the better to warm the floor in the bath, you should remember that the order of laying the floor cake must be strictly observed. An earth floor should be loosen, clean from garbage and foreign objects and dissolve. On the prepared surface you need to fill the screed of concrete.

On the clutched concrete you need to lay a layer of rolled waterproofer. It can be rubberoid or polyethylene film.

Next, the entire surface is laid out with a layer of heat insulator. You can use both sheet and linen material. Then the rubberoid or polyethylene reinstall. The final layer is a concrete screed.

Laying of all floor pie layers should be carried out carefully. Especially need to pay attention to the tightness of each layer - it will retain the integrity of all materials. Correctly conducted internal insulation will create comfortable conditions for the correct use of the bath and the conservation of heat.

Outdoor insulation bath

The better to insulate the bath from the outside, depends on the main building material from which the construction was erected.

Outdoor floor insulation in the bath

For the outer insulation of the brick bath, mineral wool is most often used. It is best to impose this material in 2 layers, overlapping the seams between sheets laid earlier. This will prevent the appearance of cold bridges and help keep heat.

The bath from blocks is insulated by a similar scheme. For clay-concrete blocks, the layer of the outer insulation may be a bit thinner.

The tree retains warmth well. In this case, the question is, the better to insulate the walls of the bath outside, it is decided slightly easier. The main scheme for overlaying the insulator layer depends on the used wood building materials.

Important! If the bath is built from the bar, you must definitely compact the seams of the main box. To do this, make neat layers of flask fiber.

Solving the issue of the better to warm the frame bath, requires special attention. Free space between the components of the frame must be filled with thermal insulator. This uses mineral wool protected on both sides by waterproofing film.

If a log cabin was erected for a bath, only interventot joints need to be insulated. To do this, optimally use flange felt or other natural material.

How best to insulate the bath, description of materials and methods, video review

From the article you will learn what are natural and synthetic materials for thermal insulation of the premises, and how best to insulate the bath with the external and inner side.

The order and sequence of work on outer insulation depends on the type of material used to build the material. For baths from a log - rounded or just a sterling - this is usually a thorough sealing of all the cracks and cracks: the wood sufficient thickness is well holding heat independently. Sometimes insulate the steam room and washing inside.

How to insulate a bunch of logs outside

Bath insulation

After the construction of a log cabin and cachatka, the gaps, the building must be standing under the roof of at least six months. All this time, the bath is preferably not exploited. The log house will give a shrinkage, wood will dry, new gaps and gaps will appear. Here they need to be legally. To do this, use a special insulation based on jute and flax. Jute himself does not spend the heat and does not burn, but its drawback is small elasticity (it is easy). To solve this problem, linen fibers add linen fibers to solve. Thin strips of material with a hammer and a special metal blade blades are clogged into the gap. It is necessary to do it carefully to prevent the skew of the structure.

For sealing slots in wooden buildings there is still a special sealant. It is easier to work with it: all the available emptiness are filled from a special syringe.

Bath insulation Baths with sealant

Log cabin gives shrink for two years. At this time, it is not recommended to squeeze it with finishing materials. So you will have access to the newly appearing slits that you need to periodically close from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of atmospheric precipitation, the building can be tightened outside by fixing it using slats.

Two years after the construction, you can start decoration. For many it will sound ridiculous, but the structures from the log can be stitching a block house, clapboard, a timber imitation, dies. To begin with, a lamp is mounted on the wall (if it is from wood, it needs to be treated with impregnation with antibacterial and raising fire resistance), which is checked for vertical and horizontality using a construction level.

Gearing for insulation and finishing

The finishing material is fastened to the crate, which is then covered with varnish or other protective compositions. If metal guides chose, they are fixed on special suspensions.

Warming Baths from a bar outside

The insulation of the bath from the bar outside is absolutely no different from the warming of a bath of a log. The building should also stand out, it also appears gaps that close in the same way.

Bruz Bath Warming

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the bar. If your climatic zone is insufficient for your climatic zone, warming will be as follows:

brous lamp or metal guides (be sure to set them both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane);
heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, the thickness of the wall, and the type of thermal insulation);
moisture and windproof;
counterfeit (not necessarily, but a gap should remain between the protective film and finishing materials);
decoration Materials.

Heat Bath Outside

Outside the bath from the bar usually: the lining of any type, edged board, siding, metaloprofil, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finish is covered with varnishes for outdoor work, sometimes pre-treated with color pigments, but many modern compositions have and tinting effect that, of course, conveniently.

Metal guides for siding are attached to special suspensions

Warming of a brick bath outside

Brick Bath Warming Scheme

For outdoor insulation, mineral wools are usually advised to use. For the internal insulation of the bath, they are not suitable according to the latest research - formaldehyde is isolated, and for external warming is one of the best options. Heat the brick bath outside can also be polystyrene foam plates, foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foamed glass (its drawback is a high price). For high-quality work, it is advised to put two layers of the relics (with a displacement of half length) to reduce heat loss due to the seam overlap. But this method takes more time, and the materials for insulation leaves twice as much. Because the insulation is most often made in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are sick of reinforced tape.

PVC-reinforced tape cloth

Scheme of insulation of brick bath and decoil finish

The scheme of insulation of a brick bath on the principle of the ventilated facade

Decoration outside the baths from blocks

Outdoor decoration Bathroom decorative brick

Measurement scheme Baths from aerated concrete

Recently, such a finishing material is becoming increasingly becoming a block house, which eminently emitting a log wall. Block house is made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood.
The bath from blocks, covered by a block house, looks like a tree.

Block Bathing Block-House

conclusions

The log cabin, built in Russian traditions, as she imposed does not need additional insulation of the walls, neither outside or inside.

When choosing an outdoor insulation for a brick or block bath, the choice is very wide. Without harm to health, it is possible to use mineral wool made using phenol formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for the insulation of the bath inside. Polyfoam and polystyrene foam is also suitable.

With financial opportunities, the bath can be seen a metal block house, which will serve for many years.

How to insulate a bunch of logs outside

For sealing slots in wooden buildings there is still a special sealant. It is easier to work with it: all the available emptiness are filled from a special syringe.

The finishing material is fastened to the crate, which is then covered with varnish or other protective compositions. If metal guides chose, they are fixed on special suspensions.

Warming Baths from a bar outside

The insulation of the bath from the bar outside is absolutely no different from the warming of a bath of a log. The building should also stand out, it also appears gaps that close in the same way.

The need for insulation from the outside depends on the thickness of the bar. If your climatic zone is insufficient for your climatic zone, warming will be as follows:

brous lamp or metal guides (be sure to set them both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane);
heat insulator (thickness depends on the climatic zone, the thickness of the wall, and the type of thermal insulation);
moisture and windproof;
counterfeit (not necessarily, but a gap should remain between the protective film and finishing materials);
decoration Materials.

Warming of a brick bath outside

Decoration outside the baths from blocks

Recently, such a finishing material is becoming increasingly becoming a block house, which eminently emitting a log wall. Block house is made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A bath from blocks by a block house, it looks like a tree.

Block Bathing Block-House

conclusions

The log cabin, built in Russian traditions, as she imposed does not need additional insulation of the walls, neither outside or inside.

With financial opportunities, the bath can be seen a metal block house, which will serve for many years.

How and what to do the insulation of the bath outside - options and examples

Experts recommend to insulate bath buildings outside so that the temperature is well maintained, and the heating costs were minimal. In addition, due to the outer thermal insulation, the building will be protected from the effects of precipitation and cold air masses, which will significantly extend its life.

There is a bath insulation outside in various ways, depending on which material was used when it was built. For buildings erected from rounded or schurd logs, it is recommended to make an embezzlement of existing cracks and cracks, since the tree of high thickness in itself is well kept warm. From the inside usually insulate the washing room and the steam room.

The insulation of the bath bar outside depends on what its thickness, as well as from climatic conditions in the region. Be sure to insulate the buildings erected from blocks and bricks, since these materials have high thermal conductivity, and to maintain the temperature the thickness of the walls should be more than 80 centimeters, which is fraught with high costs. Therefore, such bath buildings will certainly heat.

Outdoor Warming of Log Ban

The heat shift of such buildings is reduced to the elimination of the gaps. Between the crowns in the construction process lay a special jute insulation, but over time the wood begins to dying, cracks and gaps appear, which have to regularly eliminate.

After the end of the construction of the cut and eliminate the shortcomings, the construction should be standing under the roof of the minimum six months. During this time, it is desirable to use the bath. The log house is running out, the tree will dry, and new gaps will appear, which should be corpped.

To this end, use a special insulation of flax and jute. Since the jute perfectly holds heat and does not ignite, but it is easy to break, linen fibers are added to it, which eliminate this problem. Thin segments of the insulation are clogged into the gap using metal blades from metal and hammer. Work is performed carefully so that the building has not occurred.

In addition, choosing, the better to insulate the bath outside, it is worth paying attention to a special sealant - to fill the slots you just need to squeeze the mixture from the syringe directly in the voids.

Log cabin continues to give shrink for two years. Specialists advise during this period not to sow it with finishing materials so that there is access to the emerging slots that have to be periodically eliminated. To protect the insulation from different precipitations, you should cover the bath with a film from the outside, fixing the straps.

Two years after construction, you can finish. Buildings made of logs are allowed to wash with dies, lining, and besides this block house, imitation of the bar. First, the walls are installed on the walls. If it is wooden, it is necessarily treated with impregnations with antibacterial and fire-resistant properties, and then check the construction level to comply with horizontality and verticality.

The finishing material is attached to the crate, which is then covered with varnish or other protective agent. If guides from metal were purchased, they are fixed on special suspensions.

Woodering of a wooden bath outside does not produce, because the logs themselves are well held warmly. The structure is insulated from the inside - usually steam and washing. But if you still want to warm up the construction and outside, then on the material, the wet moisture, places a vapor-or hydrobarier, fastening the straps, which then mount the finish.

Heat insulation bath from timber

The outer insulation of bath buildings from the bar is produced in the same way as in the case of the structure of the logs. The construction should also stand out, since it also occurs the gaps that have to be embedded.

As for the question than to insulate a bath from a bar outside, the choice depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, wall thickness. This work is performed if the timing thickness for this type of climate is not enough to effectively conserve heat.

Warming occurs as follows:

perform the crate using a bar or metal guides, exposing elements in two planes - vertical and horizontal;
mount thermal insulation materials;
shutd up moisture and windpower;
make the crates (this is not a mandatory stage of work, but a gap should be present between the protective film and the finish material);
perform an finishing finish.

The bath is outside with clapboard, siding, edged board, block house, metal products and other materials. After performing the finish, the decoration from the tree is necessarily covered with lacquer composition for external work, sometimes in addition to it in front of it, although many modern mixtures have a slight tin effect.

When siding was used as a finishing material, it becomes a mandatory arrangement of the ventilation gap between the trim and insulation. To create a crate, it is recommended to use guides, which can be purchased in the same place where siding. They are attached to special suspensions.

Heat shock brick baths

It often raises the question of how it is better to warm the bath outside or from the inside if it is made of bricks. Such buildings will necessarily heat up, since this building material is characterized by high thermal conductivity, and without outer heat shields it is extremely difficult to warm the room to the desired temperature.

The sequence of arrangement arrangement remains the same:

Frame.
Insulation.
Wind and moisture insulation.
Ventilation gap.
Finish.

As an outdoor isolator, it is recommended to use Minvatu. Solving the problem, how to heat the bath outside or from the inside: it should be borne in mind that mineral wool is not suitable for internal works, because when heated, formaldehyde begins. Outside, protect the brick structure can be foam, polystyrene plates (they are more expensive, but serve for a long time) and foamed glass (the main disadvantage is high cost).

In order to improve the quality of thermal insulation, experts recommend laying two layers by the rotor, with displacement to the floor length - this allows you to reduce heat loss by overlapping seams. True, this method is more expensive, since the material is required 2 times more, and besides, a lot of time leaves. For this reason, insulation is usually produced in one layer, laying a tight one mat to the second, and joints are connected by the reinforced tape.

Siding or wooden trim is used to cover the brick bath. Another way of outer decoration is the use of plaster if foam glass, foam or polystyrene plates were selected for thermal protection. In this case, the reinforced grid is placed on top of this material, primer is placed and then plaster.

Even use the following method, how to insulate the bath from the outside with your own hands - following the example of the ventilated facade. In such a situation, special M-shaped brackets are attached to the wall with a 1 centimeter of a smaller insulation width. Then between them firmly fix the plates or mats of the insulation.

For reliability, they are strengthened with dowels, although this is not a mandatory - the material will be quite well held by itself, in order to make such a fixation step. The joints of the plates are connected by the reinforced tape or treated with adhesive composition, they are placed on top of the waterproofing film and bonded by straps. After onto the brackets, the guides are installed, which hold the insulation and use the basis for finishing. This algorithm can be insulated and baths from slag blocks, foam blocks, aerated concrete.

Outdoor design of baths from blocks

As for what to insulate the bath from the outside, the same options are allowed to build from blocks as in cases described above. Another way is to place a bath building with decorative brickwork, but this method can be used only if the building will be kept permanently plus temperature.

If it is decided to lay a bath from blocks with bricks, then an additional wall can not be done completely, retreating at 5-10 centimeters. Due to this, thermal insulation indicators will increase somewhat. The gap is either left empty, or fill in thermal insulating material - treated sawdust, clay and so on.

With the goal so that in the space between the walls there is no moisture, in the outer walls they create small ventilation gaps in the size, and short pieces of fastening fittings are driven to the bears, to securely fix the finishing structure.

Today, the block house is very popular - finishing, imitating the wall of the logs. Produce it from various materials: wood, vinyl (PVC), metal. Building, covered by a block house, looks as if it is made of natural wood.

If there is a question about how to insulate the old bath, then work is performed in the same way as in the construction of a new one, depending on the material from which it is constructed. In completion, you can shelter it with finishing materials, and the construction will look more attractive again.

The insulation of the bath is an important event, without which it will not be able to maintain a high temperature in the structure. In addition, the cost of heating the premises will be reduced. Regarding the problem than to insulate a wooden bathing outside, then its solution depends on what construction material the structure is rapidly erected. Work is quite simple, so that with them you can cope on your own. After the insulation of the bath, it remains only to perform an finishing finish from a suitable material - and it is fully ready for operation.

Before you warm the bath, you need to take into account certain factors that affect this process. It should be necessary to take note of what material the bath was built (bricks, wooden modules or foam block), to study all the climatic features of your terrain.

Heat insulation Sruba

Estimation of centuries for the traditional Russian bath put a log house. Although it is known that the tree is pretty well kept warm and in diameter, the log house can be more than 20 cm, yet it is necessary to insulate the bath using additional materials.

But why is it still worth insulating a bath? The reasons for this are as follows:

Now you have verified that it is extremely necessary to warm your bath. So, let's consider ways to insulate the bath outside. To warm the loghouse best, it is necessary to carry out a pantry (caulking).

Most often, the caulking occurs in 3 stages:

during the first stage, the crowns are stacked by one on one, a special interventic insulation is placed on the lower crown;
already to the second stage, go through a year, immediately after a shrinkage occurs;
but the third stage of insulation occurs only four years later, the field of how the bath was built. At this stage, the cauldron is represented as a restoration of the previously installed insulation of the bath.

If new cracks have already appeared in the bath and it began to quickly produce heat, then you should use the insulation, which is based on Jute and Flax. This jute is well kept warm and not flammable. The truth should be remembered that it can easily break. And for this reason, Flax was added to the insulation. Scoring the gap with this insulation it is important to do it very carefully, since with negligence you can provoke a battery skew. Also to eliminate unwanted slots, you can use a sealant that has a syringe shape. It is easier to use and qualitatively fills all the gaps.

Brick bath, insulation order

It is known that the brick wall cools much faster than the wooden surface, for example, a log cabin. This is because the brick gives the brick much faster. And even in brick walls, there are practically no slots, no gaps, still heats up a brick wall for a very long time. But remember that this applies to the laptile premises.

It is best to choose mineral wool for brick walls, as it has good thermal insulation and fire-resistant properties.

How the hydro and vapor polypoletor is best used isoPan. Since this material protects from all sorts of moisture mineral wool.

Remember that excessive moisture contributes to the occurrence of the fungus and without the isyospan, thermal insulation can serve you not so long as I would like. Speaking about the decorative design of the walls in your bath, everything completely depends on your material means and preferences. But it is best to protect thermal insulation from the outside using siding or lining.

The preparation of the walls is reduced to removing various types of protruding fittings, air conditioners, old finishes, etc. If there are cracks in the brickwork, it is necessary to close them with cement mortar (s), otherwise the convective air flows will be powered out of the bath through the insulation layer, and cold masses with Streets will be suited through the slots at the bottom of the walls.
First, drill holes under the dowel to fix the metal brackets into the wall of the brick. Metal brackets themselves, namely the distance between them, must correspond to the selected insulation dimensions. Remember that the length of the brackets should slightly exceed the thickness of the insulation, otherwise the facade will be ventilated inefficiently, moisture will accumulate in the wat.
Dowels are fixed by the brackets to which the minvati plates are fastened with aluminum or galvanized stainless steel profiles. The thickness of the plates of the Ministry of Service is chosen on the basis of climatic conditions, for the middle strip of Russia, 15-centimeter plates or two-layer laying of 100 and 50-thymillimeter insulating mats are allowed. Wool is inserted between the brackets, the laying is being taken upward, additional fixation is carried out by "fungi" - facade dowels.

Note! Metal frame with brackets can be replaced with wooden planks. In this case, 50x50 mm bars are used, which are fixed vertically on the brick wall. Dowels are used for fastening, they are inserted into pre-drilled holes in the wall. In bars also drill holes for anchors. The distance between the bars is chosen according to the formula "the width of the insulation minus 1-1.5 cm." Plates with a thickness of 50 mm are inserted between the guides. When the mats are laid, the beams of the crates for the second layer of the insulation and both layers of the insulation are attached to the walls of the "fungi" facade. The last stage of work both in the first case and when using wooden bars, is the pulling of the basin bands, gluing its joints, after which the vertical counterclaim under siding / lining is stuffed.

"Wet" methods of insulation of brick bath

The procedure for insulation framework construction

The design of the frame-shield bath is very simple and relatively light, so we understand that it is not adapted to the heaters of a large mass. And at least mineral wool has a slight weight, complete with decorative trim, the mass becomes decent. Over time, this can lead to the deformation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. Therefore, a foam will be used much better when insulation, because this insulation is much easier, will not contribute to the deformation of the walls.

Foam is also inherent in such properties as heat capacity and hydrophobicity. And there is no doubt that this material will serve you for many years. Do not forget that the polyfoam has a number of advantages. When insulating this material, you will not need to build a separate framework, the foam should only be attached to special glue.

As a decorative finish, you can use shuttering on the grid. But remember that it needs to be done only after you laid the insulation, and the glue is completely dry.

Due to the fact that many masters believe that heating, the foam loses his shape and begins to gradually collapse, it is recommended to think about using mineral wool, with the insulation of the walls of your frame-panel bath. The choice is yours, because in any case there is a risk.

Video - Warming of frame bath with her hands

Video - rules and errors of insulation baths from the inside and outside

How to insulate a box of foam block

Many experts argue that it is necessary to warm the box from foam block on the same technology that is used in the insulation of a brick bath. Others consider this opinion erroneous, all because the surface of the foam block is porous. From this it follows that the foam block must be protected from moisture from the inside, while for a bath of a brick of a waterproofing material.

For insulation of foam concrete walls, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam. This is quite a long-life material with high thermal insulation properties and physico-chemical parameters, it is easily mounted even alone. The only drawback is the possibility of damage to the heaters of rodents.

Bath insulation of foam block, main stages of work

Important note. The bath from aerated concrete is insulated by the same principle as the sauna of the slag block.

For insulation, you can use basalt wool or foam with a thickness of more than 50 mm. The selected material must be placed between the lamps of the crate (the installation order is described above). Watch that there is no gaps between the crate and the heat insulator.

If a foam is used for insulation, it is recommended to further consolidate with its facade dowels or use the glue, and the joints of the sheets to cry for construction tape.

On top of the heater of the insulation, the waterproofing material is stretched, and the adhesives of the adjacent cloths 10-15 cm are strictly observed and the adhesive plates are performed. Next will be fastened with decorative facade panels.

How to insulate the bath from the inside

Technologies of the warming of a church and brick bath are very similar. Most masters do not consider it necessary to warm the walls of the baths from the inside, paying attention to only the roof, ceiling and foundation. So let's find out the reasons why you should warm the bath from the inside and what technologies exist for this.

For what you need to warm the bath from the inside

The diameter of the wooden crown in the bathhouse is most often 20 centimeters. In the event that the cacked was performed qualitatively, it will not be necessary to insulate your bath from the inside. But still there are reasons why it is necessary:

it may happen that the diameter of the crown in the Siruba is small, which will lead to poor thermal insulation;
the bath must be insulated from the inside if the foundation was not insulated. Or was insulated, but very weak;
due to bad weather conditions, the insulation of the bath outside is insufficient.

The masters are confident that if it is enough to warm up a bath, then it will go to her heating 3 times less energy, and it will be possible to use a weaker furnace.

The walls of the insulated bath in their structure are very similar to the thermos (sometimes they call insulation cake). After all, those who are going to really warm the baths, you will need vapor and waterproofing.

The walls of the insulated bath have the following structure: a predetermined wall, a mandatory layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation, vaporizolation, and, of course, decorative trim.

If you choose the right quality material correctly, you can independently cope with the insulation of the bath from the inside very quickly. For insulation, the bath will be needed with the material that will be:

high quality, with high thermal insulation properties;
not inclined to rot, and will not be damaged by a variety of insects;
the most important thing, the insulation must be fire-resistant, because the temperature in the bath can be above 100 degrees.

Since not all materials are suitable for quality and properties for the internal insulation of the bath, most often specialists use basalt wool. In addition to the fact that it has a quite acceptable price, basalt wool is also suitable for other parameters. In addition, it is recommended to choose special synthetic plates that have a soft structure.

It should be remembered that, warming the walls, you should make hydro and vaporizolation in parallel with thermal insulation, because these processes are closely connected.

First of all, the surface of the walls should be prepared.

If you see any slots or seams, you should fill them with plaster. Also for these purposes, experts recommend using sealant. After you have finished, you should go to the next step - waterproofing.

Note. In the event that your bath was made of a log, then it is strictly prohibited from waterproofing immediately after the construction. To begin with, wait until shrinkage ends, often it takes more than a year.

How to produce hydro and thermal insulation

First of all, you should protect the wall, the floor and the ceiling of the bath. It is best to use polyethylene film or a special foil.

The insulation technology itself with the use of foil is simple. The following should be done:

Note. All bars should be lubricated by a special antiseptic means in advance.

Bath trim from outside

Due to the fact that we already have a necessary wooden framework, we can only find high-quality material for the exterior trim. Only after that, the insulation of the bath can be completed. Most often, wooden lining is used for the external sheaving of the bath in Russia.

In conclusion, all of the above will not be superfluous to pay attention to interesting and useful advice of specialists.

Frequently on Russia, the insulation of the walls of the baths was made exclusively with natural materials: felt went to move, flax and moss, which occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - it loves to remove the birds and mice, and the insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skills. Where better modern synthetic materials are more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of the bath seems simple question, but in fact here are a lot of nuances. And the more you will know about it, the warmer and safer will be your bath.

Inside a bath for security reasons for human health, it is better to warm up exceptionally natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And from moisture it will protect the heat-reflecting waterproofing films, which are stitched from the eye with a clapboard.

Features of the warming of walls from the log

It would seem why in the log structures insulation of the walls - the bath after all when laying it looks quite hermetically? The fact is that such a building material, like a log house, is peculiar to shrinkage, from which serious gaps are formed. And through them, the cold air penetrates directly into the pair of room - which is absolutely not in favor of health, nor for finance in terms of unnecessary spending on fuel. Therefore, such a bath must be insulated, and the most effective way is an interventic caulkite.

All you need to do is lay out the insulation even during the construction of a cut, and at the end of the construction to process the junction of neighboring logs or BRUSEV. After that, fibers are stuffed - a hammer and pantry, and the seams are processed by sealant.

Technology of the process of insulation of frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath bundle is more intricately - here you already need your own methods. After all, high loads and special weight such a design can not withstand, and therefore everything should be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. Insulation can only be used by what little weight. And the foam as an outdoor insulation is simply indispensable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is easy and attached by the usual construction glue.

The warming of walls from the inside in the bath looks like this:

Step 1. On the bearing wall creates a framework.
Step 2. The walls are trimmed with insulation.
Step 3. The insulation is fastened with waterproofing materials - a foil layer or at least polyethylene film. It is necessary to sharpen them to be a mustache, but all the joints are closed with thin slats.
Step 4. Everything is trimmed by boards or lining - that's all things.

As an option - use special PPU plates.

Wall insulation outside - how to kill a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to warm the baths not only inside, but also outside - to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce the costs of fuel. And more high-quality external thermal insulation is a significant reduction in fuel consumption, moisture control and mold guarantee and unpleasant odor. After all, the main task of the outer insulation of the bath is a shelter of building structures, protect them from contact with cold air and atmospheric precipitation.

Next, how to insulate the walls in a brick bath and a different kind of blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sidding siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But as a heat insulator for such a "cake", the old good mineral wool is most suitable: environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproofing and has low thermal conductivity. The very process of insulation looks like this:

Step 1. The brackets that are made in the form of squares are attached. Between them - a step per centimeter is less than the width of the insulation matte.
Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares that need to be purchased with elastic, capable of withstanding considerable pressure.
Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are sampled by construction tape and poured with adhesive composition.
Step 4. The walls are covered with a rolled waterproofer, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
Step 5. Now - installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for cladding.

By the way, there were already universal materials on the modern market, performing two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil foam-foam polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and levsan with metal spraying. It can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective insulation of the bath.

What can be insulated with a bath from the outside and inside

The Russian bath does not lose its popularity, and at the same time it should be built in compliance with the relevant standards and rules. Therefore, the question of what can be insulated with a bath, remains very relevant.

Some features of the insulation bath

Competent thermal insulation of the bath will help noticeably reduce the cost of fuel, improve the quality of the procedure, will save the construction itself in good condition for a long time, especially if the bath is used all year round.

The Russian baths have long been insulated using natural materials - moss, pacles, lycons, etc. Currently, it is better to use artificial insulation. They are durable, easy to install, are environmentally friendly.

When choosing a insulation, it is necessary to consider the features of the use of bathrooms - a high level of moisture, high temperatures, often live fire. All of these moments impose certain requirements for the insulation for the bath, especially if they are used for internal insulation.

Before purchasing the material, a number of important factors should be carefully taken into account, taking into account the cost, biological inertness, the technical characteristics of the heat insulators offered. Another 1 important point is the regional climate. The amount of material required is determined by the size of the bath building and the required layer thickness of the heat insulation.

Is it necessary and whether it is possible to insulate the bath from the outside, depends on the material from which it is built, regional climate and time of use - seasonal or year-round.

Required tools and materials

In order for the thermal insulation of the bath to spend on their own, you need to prepare the next set of tools:

construction roulette;
screwdriver;
construction level and plumb;
ax;

chisel;
saw or hacksaw;
a hammer;
electrolovik;
nippers or passati;
acute technical knife;
electrode or perforator.

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need:

vapor barrier film;
wooden bar;
metal rail;
screws and nails;
adhesive tape.

How to choose a heater

In the bath usually there are: pre-tribades, washing rooms, a wardrobe, a dressing room, a lounge. In these premises, different levels of humidity and temperature are installed when washing. Therefore, than you can warm the bath inside, is determined for each room separately.

In terms of mechanical characteristics, insulation are divided into bulk, block and tile, uterine and fibrous materials.

The chemical composition allows you to divide the heat insulators to organic, inorganic, technical and plastic materials.

Plastic insulators on a plastic basis are better to use for the insulation of rooms with low moisture and temperatures. In the steam room, they are not used due to light flammability and deformation when heated. Cheap and safe organic thermal insulators can be used in the battery only after processing from fire.

Inorganic thermal insulators are considered the most practical. These materials are fireproof, non-hygroscopic. They do not rot and serve for a long time without losing their basic technical properties.

Warm stewing

The steam room in the bath requires special attention. After all, it is here that during operation, the highest level of moisture and high temperature are observed. Therefore, insulation, waterproofing and decoration of this room must be made by special materials.

The maximum heating during operation is subject to ceiling steaming (up to 150 ° C). Therefore, the question of what can be insulated the ceiling of the bath, solves the use of materials with high heat resistance.

In the absence of an attic room or attic insulation mounted in the following order:

wooden grill of timber on ceiling boards;
clamping elements;
thermal insulation;
parosolation.

If there is an upper room, the attic, the attic - the insulation scheme looks somewhat different. A layer of clay is applied to the ceiling boards, a thickness of at least 2 cm. It will provide moisture delay. All fine holes, joints between boards, etc. Filled with bulk material. Usually it uses a clayjit or chips. The thickness of this layer is at least 20 cm.

A box base from the rafting supports is mounted around the chimney on the ceiling. This will provide a gap between the pipe and the heat insulator of 20 cm, required by fire safety. The non-combustible heat insulator type of glass gambles or mineral wool is stacked inside the box. The main surface of the ceiling is covered with a layer of mineral heat insulator.

The walls and ceiling of the bath construction must be insulated, according to the following principles:

Heat insulators should touch the wall surface to reduce the risk of internal moisture and cold air.
Over the insulation requires a ventilation gap for its drying.
All overlaps and other wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic composition to prevent premature destruction of the material.
Materials with low thermo- and moisture resistance in the steam room cannot be used.
Heaters should choose from among those that are not deformed under the influence of moisture and high temperatures and do not distinguish dangerous chemicals.

Necessary properties of insulation for baths:

heat resistance;
moisture resistance;
environmental friendliness;
fire safety.

Natural insulation require special processing before use. Otherwise, mold, fungus and malicious insects may soon appear. Artificial insulation in this case use more expedient.

Polyfoam application

Many home masters are wondering if it is possible to warm the bath with foam. After all, this is a relatively inexpensive and convenient material in the work. However, it should be said that the bath can be insulated with a foam outside or on the foundation.

To the question of whether it is possible to insulate the bath with foam from the inside, most experts will answer negatively. This is due to the fact that the foam is easily destroyed under the influence of high temperatures. Low moisture resistance of this material becomes the cause of its rotation under the influence of high humidity. Therefore, for the inner premises of the bath, the foam can be used except in the premises where moisture almost does not fall.

Use of mineral wool

The question of whether it is possible to insulate the battle of Minvata, is solved, as a rule, positively.

After all, mineral wool is a practically universal contemporary insulation, which has many positive technical characteristics. Among them should be called:

reliability;
moisture resistance;
heat resistance;
fire safety;
incompetence of rotting;
simple installation.

Therefore, the Minvata can be used as the insulation of the bathhouse both outside and in the interior, including the steam room.

Insulation penplex

Is it possible to insulate the bath from the inside the penplex? This is quite acceptable, taking into account some of the technical characteristics of the material. If there are many useful properties of Painopyx - hygroscopic material, with low heat resistance.

Therefore, it is better to use it in the parch separation only on the walls and be sure to cover the foil. In the rest of the baths, it is quite suitable.

Floor insulation in the bath

The floor in the bath is usually done from a wooden board or concrete. The board is used in relatively dry rooms. Concrete - in the washer and in the steam room. Floor insulation technology depends on the main material.

For the insulation of concrete floor, clamzite (3-5 mm) is most often used, extruded polystyrene or boiler slag. The upper level of the floor at the end of the insulation is understood by 15-20 cm. The work is carried out in the following order.

The concrete base must be aligned and clean from the construction trash and dust. Next, an adhesive composition of 2-3 layers is applied to the surface. Most often, special mastic applies for this, for example, rubber-concrete. The oilproofer is placed on the adhesive composition - polyethylene of increased strength or rubberoid.

After the waterproofer grabbies, the insulation laying begins. On top of it, the adhesive composition is applied again to which the waterproofer is stacked. The last layer is a reinforced concrete screed, a thickness of at least 30 mm. Concrete must be aligned and how to dry. The finishing finish of such a gender is usually done with the use of ceramic tiles. Under it you can position the system a warm floor.

For wood insulation, it is necessary to first remove old boards. For the remaining beams, a cranial bar is sown from below. It must be wrapped with rubberoid or superproof polyethylene. On top of the waterproofer stacked a draft flooring. For this, bulk materials or mineral wool are mainly used. Is it possible to insulate the floor in the bath isopin? You can, if the floor is wooden and equipped indoors with a low moisture level.

Waterproofing material is superimposed over the insulation. Then the board is stacked for the first floor. At the perimeter of the room attached plinth. The finishing paintwork in this case does not apply, since these materials under the influence of temperature and moisture are distinguished toxins. If desired, the wooden floor can be displayed with special rubberized rugs. They will make the room cozy and will not deliver a lot of trouble during cleaning. The start in the bath is insulated mainly for more user comfort. Over the total temperature inside the bathrooms, the insulation of the floor is influenced slightly.

Roof insulation

What can be insulated the roof of the bath, - this problem is solved depending on the use of the room. If the bath building is intended only for hygiene procedures and recreation, referenced roofing will be enough to insulate the roof before mounting the roofing cake. In the case when brooms will be dried inside the bath, underwear and other inventory, the roof must be insulated by capital.

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Bath insulation Outside with your own hands a step-by-step instruction. Warming the beloved bath outside: Heat above all

Warming Baths from a bar outside

Warming of a brick bath outside

Decoration outside the baths from blocks

conclusions

1 On the importance and necessity of thermal insulation

1.1 Why insulate outside?

2 What to warm?

2.1 Application of Minvati (video)

2.2 Isolation with mineral wool insulation

2.3 Application of foam (video)

2.4 Isolation with foam or polystyrene foam

2.5 Application PPU (video)

2.6 Isolation using sprayed PPU

Features of the technology of outdoor insulation bath

Wooden Bath Warming Outside

How to insulate a brick bath outside?

Features of the insulation of the frame bath outside

Features and Technology of Bani Foundation

Features of the insulation of walls baths from the inside

Heat insulation Baths from the inside and outside

Materials for bath heat insulation

Outdoor insulation

Inner heat insulation

Warming Baths from the inside: heat insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures

Paul, Doors and windows

Walls and ceiling

How to choose a heater

Preparatory work

How to insulate the bath from the inside

Walls in the steam room

How to insulate the ceiling

How to insulate the floor

Outdoor insulation bath

How to insulate a bunch of logs outside

Warming Baths from a bar outside

Warming of a brick bath outside

Decoration outside the baths from blocks

conclusions

How to insulate a bunch of logs outside

Warming Baths from a bar outside

Warming of a brick bath outside

Decoration outside the baths from blocks

conclusions

How and what to do the insulation of the bath outside - options and examples

Outdoor Warming of Log Ban

Heat insulation bath from timber

Heat shock brick baths

Outdoor design of baths from blocks

Heat insulation Sruba

Brick bath, insulation order

The procedure for insulation framework construction

Video - Warming of frame bath with her hands

Video - rules and errors of insulation baths from the inside and outside

How to insulate a box of foam block

How to insulate the bath from the inside

For what you need to warm the bath from the inside

How to produce hydro and thermal insulation

Bath trim from outside

Features of the warming of walls from the log

Technology of the process of insulation of frame, block and brick walls

Wall insulation outside - how to kill a bath in a "fur coat"

What can be insulated with a bath from the outside and inside

Some features of the insulation bath

Required tools and materials

How to choose a heater

Read more about vapor insulators

Warm stewing

Polyfoam application

Use of mineral wool

Insulation penplex

Floor insulation in the bath

Roof insulation