Do-it-yourself installation and fastening of the bath to the wall. How to fix a steel bathtub: we give good advice Mount under the bathtub

Old-style cast-iron bathtubs are quite difficult to budge. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are rather unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or budge at the slightest shock, spoiling the wall and floor finish. Let's talk about how to fix the bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.

The stability of the bath depends not only on the installation procedure, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls in the place of installation, minus 2.5-3 centimeters on each side. Under these conditions, the bowl will be easier to secure to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case, there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably enter during use.

Features of the device of steel baths

Of all the types of bathtubs, steel models are the most difficult to install fixedly. This is due to two features of their design:

• low weight of the bowl;
• lack of mounts for legs.

On cast iron and acrylic models, special fasteners are usually located on the outside of the bowl, to which the legs can be securely screwed. The steel bath manufacturers have dropped these parts. Since steel is a rather soft material, there is a high risk that when using the bath, under the weight of the water drawn into it, plus the body immersed in it, it may bend. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.

Feet for steel plumbing are usually a kind of trestle or support. It is assumed that the bathtub simply rests on them. Some models of legs can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for more secure fixation with the bottom of the bowl. But that doesn't improve the situation too much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.

How to fix a steel tub so it doesn't wobble

There are several ways to install a steel bath in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not for everyone. Firstly, making brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner will be able to build a reliable stand with his own hands. And in this case, rather high requirements are imposed on the quality of the masonry, since moisture and serious weight will constantly affect it.

Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, the interfloor floors may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can turn into a communal accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait several days until the masonry mortar dries up and acquires the strength necessary for installing plumbing fixtures. Therefore, it is better to use simpler options for fixing the bath.

Tip: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, do it not from brick, but from aerated block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to mount.

The simplest and most reliable methods for installing a steel bath include:

• fastening to walls on metal corners;
• installation on a frame made of a metal profile;
• use of special fasteners.

How does the installation of a bath begin?

Whichever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - the installation of the bath begins with a fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on the legs, its position is aligned and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After that, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of the water drain. As you know, the bathtub should stand at a slight angle: only in this case, the drain will work correctly.

Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. In the future, you will use these marks to install fasteners for the bath: steel or acrylic. After applying the marks, disconnect the plumbing device from communications and take it out of the room.

Important! The final installation of a steel bath, regardless of the method of its fixing, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely tiled or other material.

Installation of a steel bowl on corners

A fairly reliable option for attaching the bath is in addition to the legs, support it with the sides on wide metal corners bolted to the walls. This method is suitable for you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently strong material and leveled with plaster or tile glue. It is better not to attach the bath to plasterboard structures: they will not withstand such a weight.

Important! Installation of corners should be done after finishing the walls of the room.

You can hang the corners only on two walls, which will then abut the short edges of the bowl, or on all three vertical surfaces with which it will be in contact. In order not to damage the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, through them, you can drill directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill with a victorious soldering or a perforator.

The place of attachment of the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bathtub will rest on them with bumpers, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.

Installing the bath on the frame

If you plan to cover the space under the bowl, the best way to reinforce your steel tub so it doesn't wobble is to place it on a metal frame. The structure is made of UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor with dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and the supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to make a welded support structure from:

• metal corner;
• steel pipes of a suitable diameter.

Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bath itself stands firmly on its legs.

Corner posts from the profile are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The erection of the frame should be done after finishing the walls, or at least after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of the installation, the frame can be sheathed with plastic panels or drywall, which is then tiled.

Important! When trimming, do not forget to leave an inspection hatch to access the communications located under the bathroom.

Using special fasteners

If the bath bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can restrict yourself to fixing it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing the walls. In the future, the fasteners are hidden under, which contributes not only to increasing the aesthetics of the room, but also to increasing the reliability of fastening.

In this article, we'll look at how to secure a cast iron and acrylic bathtub to walls and floors.

When performing work on repairing a bathroom and replacing plumbing, apartment owners face a rather difficult question of installing and fixing a bath. Of course, the complete set of the product most often includes a mounting kit, but its quality and reliability are far from ideal.

The choice of fasteners must be approached with all responsibility - they must correspond to the material used in the manufacture of the bath. The most popular are steel, acrylic and cast iron baths, for each of which the corresponding fastening systems are used, as well as various fastening methods.

There is simply no concept of a standard bath height. The installation height of models from various manufacturers can vary between 0.5-0.6 m. This indicator is determined by the height of the legs, but in some cases this is not a dogma either. Standard fasteners often do not ensure the reliability of the installation of the bathtub, which makes it necessary to completely abandon the use of legs, replacing them with a brick or other podium.

Fixing the bath depending on the material

Bathroom material is the main criterion that influences the choice of fastening method and the type of fasteners used. It is customary to fix these types of bathrooms as follows:

1. Cast iron baths themselves are considered quite stable due to their impressive mass, so they can be installed anywhere in the room. Typically, installation is performed on standard feet securely fixed to the body. In this case, the supports can be fixed using both steel wedges and bolted fasteners. Additionally, the cast-iron bath can be fixed thanks to the construction of a brick base, as well as metal corners bolted to the wall.
2. Steel baths must have several points of support, so they must be installed against a wall. Standard legs do not provide structural reliability, so a brick podium, polyurethane foam, a metal profile or a wall cut-out will help increase stability.
3. When fastening acrylic bath it is important to ensure uniform distribution of the load, otherwise, in case of overload, the bathtub may simply crack. It is best to install the bathtub on a podium or bricks; fastening with brick or metal frames will also be effective.

Fastening with foam

Polyurethane foam is the simplest and most affordable way of attaching a bathtub to the floor and walls at the same time. After adjusting the height and level with the help of legs or a brick frame, the bath connected to the drain should be installed in such a way that a gap of at least 0.75-1.5 cm remains along the wall.After that, the container must be filled with water and the gaps between legs and floor, as well as between the body of the bath and the walls.

It should be noted that the foam expands significantly, so the main thing is not to overdo it so that the structure does not change its position. The foam curing time is 12-36 hours, but finishing work can be started after 6 hours.

Fastening with a brick frame

This method is best suited when the product does not include legs, but it can also be used to improve the reliability of the structure. It should be borne in mind that brickwork can be used both along the bathtub and across.

With transverse laying, the bathtub is installed directly on the brick; in this case, additional fastening to the walls with a metal corner should be provided. For this, a steel or aluminum corner should be attached to the wall with dowels so that the edges of the bath receive an additional support point.

Longitudinal brick laying involves the creation of a kind of trough, into which the bath is installed. The cavity between the walls of the trough and the bath should be filled with polyurethane foam - this will increase the resistance of the product against tipping over.

If you continue laying the front wall, you can completely hide the bath, preparing it for facing with ceramic tiles. In this case, before starting work, mark the bottom row of masonry using a plumb line so that it is recessed 1.5-2 cm below the edge of the bathtub - this distance is necessary for laying the tiles "flush". It should be noted that the last row of bricks will not fit entirely, so it will have to be cut in half with a grinder and a diamond wheel.

When performing work on hiding the bath with the help of the front brick wall, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an inspection hole that provides access to the siphon. Later, this hole can be closed with a piece of moisture-resistant drywall or a special plastic door can be installed.

If the wall cladding of the bathroom with ceramic tiles is supposed, then the front wall can not be laid out of bricks, but ready-made screens can be used. Sufficient rigidity of the installation will be achieved due to the fact that the end and wall flaps of the bath are securely fixed by the tiles resting on them.

Fastening with a metal frame

This method is most often used when fixing acrylic baths. As a rule, steel frames are included in the kit, but such an accessory can be purchased separately. The installation strips are attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws; this is done in certain places with thickenings. Next, the legs are bolted to the rails.

After that, the bath should be installed in place and the places where the sides touch the wall should be marked - here you should install the fastening strips. In this case, it is recommended to leave a vertical gap between the bar and the side of 2-4 mm, which will disappear when the bath is filled with water. It should be noted that the fastening strip does not increase the strength of the side, but only prevents the possibility of overturning.

Bath inset in a niche

In small apartments it often happens that the bathtub simply does not fit into the room. On the one hand, this can be considered a real problem due to the significant complication of installation work, but the fastening of such a product is the most rigid and durable.

To install and secure the bath, you will need to cut a groove in one or both opposite walls using a punch or a grinder with a diamond disc. Bathtub flaps must be inserted into this groove. With this method, maximum rigidity is achieved due to the complete absence of backlash.

If the legs are weak enough, then you can additionally install a transverse wooden or metal profile on which the bath flaps will rest.

conclusions

Summing up, we can definitely say that the most durable and reliable fastening of the bathtub to the floor is considered to be installation on a brick frame. A metal corner or wooden beam additionally screwed to the wall, on which the bathtub flaps will rest, will help prevent the possibility of tipping over. Thus, the most reliable is the combined fastening of the bathtub to the walls and floor at the same time.

Installing a bathtub is a responsible business, because this plumbing item has a very large load. An improperly installed and poorly secured bathtub can leak, and in worst cases, roll over and injure the owners. Therefore, before installing, read our article, from which you will learn about how to attach the bath and the correct procedure for the production of work.

Material features

Regardless of the type, there are basic principles for installing a bath:

Installation of various baths

As we mentioned earlier, the type of attachment depends on the selected bath.

In general, the following steps can be distinguished on how to install a bathtub to the wall:

1. the bath is laid on its side, and a drain pipe is mounted to it;
2. a floor siphon is connected to pipes, most often these are flexible plastic pipes;
3. legs are attached to the bathroom, and it is installed so that the siphon pipes can be connected to the sewer;
4. check the tightness of the connected sewer;
5. if necessary, construct a frame made of plasterboard, a podium from foam blocks and install spacers.

How to close a large gap in a wall

Usually, after installing the bath, there may be a large distance between the end and the wall. This will not allow the bathtub to be securely fixed on three sides, and it will shake. In this case, you can turn a disadvantage into an advantage, and create a frame. As a result, you will have a shelf between the bathroom and the wall, on which you can put shampoos, powder and other accessories.

There are several ways to close a large gap:

• Create a frame from profiles, then sheathe it with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Do not forget to make a hatch for access to plumbing.
• Fix the block to the wall and make a shelf. One side of it will hold on to the bar, the other on the bath or frame.
• If you don't have a punch, you can use another solution - cut a strip of extruded polystyrene foam or foam and insert it tightly into the slot. This is necessary so that the mortar does not fall during embedding. Make a layer of gypsum on top and cover up all the cracks. You can also use polyurethane foam for this. Thus, in just 15 minutes you will close up a large gap, get rid of the rumble and banging on the walls. If you already have tiles installed, cover them with masking tape so as not to stain the surface.

When creating a shelf near the bathtub, make it with a slope so that water does not accumulate there, but flows down. In addition, it is important to install the bath itself with a slope towards the drain so that the water does not stagnate.

Installation on the podium

To install the bath on a podium made of bricks or foam blocks, an elevated platform is created. The bath is placed on the podium, while the legs remain on the floor. Before laying, the podium, walls and bottom are abundantly coated with polyurethane foam.

Instead of a brick podium, you can fill plastic bottles with water, close them tightly, and lay them on the floor. They will serve as a space filler when you need to create a "thick pillow". Treat them generously with polyurethane foam and lay the "belly" of the bath on them. This method is much cheaper and faster than a brick podium.

Homemade podium made of polyurethane foam and bottles.

Another option is to create a wall that will support the board and hide internal communications. This method is especially suitable if you have glue feet, as they will not be able to reliably support the weight of the water and your body.

Tiles are laid on top of the wall, or choose another finish.

If you have any questions, watch the video instructions on installing and attaching the bath to the podium:

After installing and fixing the bath, be sure to make sure that the seal is secure so as not to accidentally flood your neighbors.

Those who have been replacing old plumbing fixtures with new ones have probably faced the problem of instability of baths when installing them. There are several secrets, which we will tell about later, and they will help to avoid this problem.
The method of installing the bath depends largely on the material from which it is made; they are made mainly from the following materials: steel, cast iron and acrylic.

• For the stability of the steel baths, additional supports must be installed, since the legs included in the kit are not stable enough and during operation it will wobble.
• A bath made of cast iron does not need to install additional supports, since, due to its weight, it is quite stable on legs during its operation.
• very light, but quite stable, but for reliability it is better to additionally strengthen it.

There are 4 main ways to install the bathtub:

• Using a brick frame.
• Using polyurethane foam.
• Installation in a specially prepared niche.

Bath on bricks

This method is used in cases where a person does not want to put it on the legs or on the legs that come with it, it staggers. Strengthening the bath with bricks is conventionally divided into two types, longitudinal and transverse.
When arranging a bath in a longitudinal way, something like a trough is formed, into which the bath is placed. The gaps between it and the wall must be carefully sealed with polyurethane foam, this is partly done for good stability during its operation.

After installing the bath, to give a beautiful appearance, the bricks must be finished with facing tiles, and when installing a brick frame, you need to leave a small hole to access the siphon, this place can be used so as not to spoil the appearance.

With a transverse installation option, for greater stability, the brickwork must be strengthened with metal corners, which are attached to the wall with dowels.

These methods - longitudinal and transverse, are ideal for baths made of cast iron and steel, providing them with perfect stability.

First, you need to strengthen the iron frame on the bottom of the bath - for this purpose we turn it over and use self-tapping screws to fix the frame, then the legs must be screwed to it with bolts.

At the next stage, you need to make a fitting installation of the bathtub in order to determine where it will contact the wall, mark these places and remove it for a while. In place of the marks, install special strips that will contribute to its good stability during operation.

This method is great for acrylic bathtubs, and the metal frame itself is often included in the kit. If not, then it is very easy to make it yourself.

Laying in a special niche

This option is suitable for small apartments, where, accordingly, and small bathrooms, where the bath with great effort enters the niche that has been prepared for it. To make it fit better, the grooves must be made at the border level using a puncher. But here you need to make sure that there is no free space in the grooves, otherwise in the future the bath will begin to stagger.

Foam installation

Installation must be started by installing the bath on the legs, which should be included and put in place, taking into account the fact that there should be a gap of 1-1.5 cm between it and the wall .. After it is poured with water (completely) and the gaps between the wall and the bath , as well as the floor is filled with foam. But it is necessary to pour the foam in moderation, since it tends to increase during drying, and this will lead to deformation and in the future to instability. This method is suitable for all types of baths.

The little secrets that were told will help to avoid such a problem as the instability of the bath during its operation.

Installation and fastening of the bathtub to the wall: reliable fixing and sealing the gap with your own hands

The bathtub is the most important element of any bathroom. Even though showers are gaining popularity, they will never replace relaxation in a warm bubble bath. At the same time, problems often arise - how to fix the bath to the wall so that it does not stagger and does not allow moisture to pass through the cracks.

Usually, the kit includes special fasteners, depending on the type of bath, they may differ: for acrylic, cast iron and steel types.

Material features

• Cast iron baths are durable and retain heat for a long time, but they are heavy, so they must be installed on a stable base.
• The steel tub can be fixed to the podium. For this, the walls are assembled from brick, and inside the bathtub will stand firmly and not sway. The main disadvantage of this material is the noise when filling with water.

To reduce noise when filling the bathtub, treat it on the outside with putty or polyurethane foam. This will reduce the clatter of the water and help keep the heat inside longer.

Soundproofing a steel bathtub with polyurethane foam.

Fixing various baths

As we mentioned earlier, the type of attachment depends on the bath you choose.

• Cast iron baths, as a rule, are installed on 4 supports (legs). They are securely attached to the body using wedges that are included, or bolted together.

Standard cast iron bath feet

Important! If the cast-iron bath is mounted on a loose surface with low hardness, be sure to place metal plates under the legs, which will distribute the weight over the surface. The diameter of the lining must be at least 5 centimeters and the thickness must be more than 5 mm.

In general, the following steps can be distinguished on how to install a bathtub to the wall:

• The bath is laid on its side and a drain and overflow pipe is mounted to it.
• The floor siphon is connected to the pipes. Most often, these are flexible plastic pipes.
• Legs are attached to the bathroom, and it is installed in such a way that the siphon pipes can be connected to the sewer.
• The tightness of the connected sewer is checked.
• If necessary, a plasterboard frame is built, a podium made of foam blocks and spacers are installed.

How to close a large gap in a wall

Usually, after installing the bath, a large distance can remain between the end and the wall. This will not allow the bath to be securely fixed on 3 sides, and it will shake. In this case, you can turn a disadvantage into an advantage, and create a frame. As a result, you will have a shelf between the bathroom and the wall, on which you can put shampoos, powder and other accessories.

There are several ways to close a large gap:

• Create a frame from profiles. then sheathe it with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Do not forget to make a hatch to access the plumbing.
• Fix the block to the wall and make a shelf. One side of it will hold on to the bar, the other on the bath or frame.
• If you don't have a punch, you can use another solution - cut a strip of extruded polystyrene foam or foam and insert it tightly into the slot. This is necessary so that the mortar does not fall from above during embedding. Make a layer of gypsum on top and cover up all the cracks. You can also use polyurethane foam for this. Thus, in just 15 minutes you will close up a large gap, get rid of the rumble and banging on the walls. If you already have tiles installed, cover them with masking tape so as not to stain the surface.

Important! When creating a shelf near the bathtub, make it with a slope so that water does not accumulate there, but flows down. In addition, it is important to install the bath itself with a slope towards the drain so that the water does not stagnate.

Installation on the podium

To install a bathtub on a podium, an elevated platform is created from bricks or foam blocks. The bath is placed on the podium, while the legs remain on the floor. Before laying, the podium, walls and bottom are abundantly coated with polyurethane foam.

Advice! Instead of a brick podium, you can fill plastic bottles with water, close them tightly, and lay them on the floor. They will serve as a space filler when you need to create a "thick pillow". Treat them generously with polyurethane foam and lay the "belly" of the bath on them. This method is much cheaper and faster than a brick podium.

Homemade podium made of polyurethane foam and bottles.

Also, you can create a wall that will support the board and hide the internal communications. This method is especially recommended if you have glue feet, as they cannot reliably support the weight of water and your body.

Tiles are laid on top of the wall. or she gets off in other ways.

If anything remains unclear, see the instructions for installing and attaching the bath to the podium:

Conclusion

That's all we wanted to tell you about fixing the bathtub to the wall. Use the guidelines above to securely secure your bathtub with your own hands. Be sure to make sure that the fastening and sealing is reliable, so that later you do not accidentally flood your neighbors.