How to properly prepare wood for varnishing to make it smooth?
Finishing wood is the stage that crowns the wood processing process and ensures its true beauty. If you learn the basic steps of sanding and finishing and the techniques used in them, you will be able to guarantee a perfect result every time. This article contains the most useful tips.
Wood sanding
You can grind wood with both sandpaper and a sander. Scratches are less noticeable when they run parallel to the grain of the wood. However, even the smallest scratches across the grain will become visible after applying varnish (or paint). Wood sanding is done very carefully.
Sand curved surfaces and other items where the sander is inconvenient to use should be done by hand. It is important, however, to use paper of the same grain size and try to apply the same force in all areas.
Any centrifugal grinder practically does not leave any scratches, so it is advisable to use such a tool in places where the grinding direction changes and intersects with fibers. In this case, the machine should be operated slowly (no more than 2-3 cm per second) and with little pressure, otherwise you risk causing spiral-like scratches (in the next photo).
Such scratches are left by a centrifugal sander if used incorrectly.
Sanding wood should be started with coarse sandpaper, gradually moving to finer and finer grained types. Whether you are sanding by hand or with a machine, use 80 grit / inch paper first, then 120 and 180.
Varnish selection
Do not rely on store samples. The actual color is highly dependent on the type of wood being treated and how it was prepared for finishing. So collect wood scraps, sand them and use them to test your varnish.
If this is not possible, then apply a test portion of the varnish to an inconspicuous area (for example, on the lower part of the countertop). Leaving varnish on the surface for more or less time, you can get different shades.
For special colors, varnishes from the same manufacturer can be mixed.
Water-based polyurethane varnish has very little effect on the wood's own color. At the same time, oil-based products have a rich tone that can dramatically change the color of the tree.
You need a bright enough light, while aiming it at a fairly sharp angle to the surface. Inspect the wood for flaws and carefully mark them with masking tape. Then sand them down.
Some types of wood do not absorb the varnish evenly, resulting in dark spots on the surface. Birch, maple, pine and cherry can play such a cruel joke with you. This effect is difficult to avoid, but it can be limited to treating the wood with conditioner before varnishing. The conditioner prevents the wood from absorbing uneven amounts of varnish into the fibers. Such products are sold along with paints and varnishes.
In these photos, you can see how you should choose a varnish. The choice of varnish should be made in accordance with the type of wood.
A brush is the best tool for applying polyurethane varnish. For water-based varnish, the best choice is a tool with synthetic bristles made of nylon or polyester. Natural brushes should be used for oil-based formulations. In both cases, do not skimp on spending when buying these devices. Quality brushes will pick up more polish, apply it smoother, and are much less likely to lose bristles in the finishing coat.
If you wash your brush immediately after work, it will serve you for a long time. Wood varnishing with a brush ensures efficiency and excellent results.
If, after applying the next layer, you suddenly notice a flaw in the coating, an uncovered spot or something like that, you immediately rush to cover it up. Don't do that! Although the varnish may still look damp, there is a good chance that it is already cured, and you will only ruin everything with a touch of the brush. There are exceptions to this rule: you can pierce small air bubbles with a needle, you can pull the hair out of the layer, or pull out an unsuccessfully adhered fly with tweezers.
In places where brushing is difficult, rub it into the wood with a soft, non-fibrous cloth. When rubbing in, the varnish layer turns out to be much thinner than when spreading with a brush, so it is worth repeating the procedure several times. Rubbing in is only suitable for oil-based formulations, as water-based varnishes dry out too quickly.
On large surfaces, water-based polyurethane compounds can be easily applied with a paint roller. Because water-based varnishes dry quickly, brushing over large areas can be difficult. Before you start varnishing the wood, clean the work piece and work area. Dust on a fresh coat of varnish will ruin your work. So get out of your desk and let the dust settle.
Always lightly sand the surface between the varnish coats to help achieve evenness and perfect coats. Wait for the previous layers to dry before reapplying the varnish to the wood.
- Andrei
Source: https://prorab.guru/sovet/otdelka-drevesiny.html
How to grind a log house
When people talk about polishing a log house, they mean the material from which the building is made, however, there are some differences between polishing logs and different types of timber - they should be considered later. But before deciding how best to grind the log house, it is necessary to decide at what point after its construction it is necessary to start grinding the walls.
When to grind a log house
It is better to grind dry wood - it turns out better, while working with wet wood leads to the separation of fibers and presents a certain difficulty. But this will take a long time to wait. Some breeds can dry up to 7 years. However, after this long period, the log house may lose its attractive appearance - a tree without protective coatings will be subject to any negative influence from the outside, it may dry out, crack, and rot due to moisture.
Of course, one could cover it with paint or other protective agent, but without sanding, the applied coating will not have a strong adhesion to the natural material, which means that all of the above misfortunes will still occur, only a little later.
So it turns out that sanding should be done on naturally wet, not yet dried wood in order to cut off all irregularities and prepare the material for processing with agents that prevent premature wear.
Before we grind a log house, let us ask ourselves what other advantages grinding gives.
- Sanding removes the pores of fungi and mold from the surface of the wood.
- With this type of work, dirt and roughness are removed from the walls.
- In this way, the walls can be protected from direct sunlight, which causes the wood to darken.
- As a result of the procedure, the impregnating agents are applied evenly to the wood.
Now is the time to think about how to polish the blockhouse.
Grinding tools
To process logs, you need a tool that is convenient for rounded surfaces, so that you can opt for a grinder - an angle grinder.
For work, you need special disc nozzles with an emery coating.
If you are working with a bar, a belt sander will do. If you decide to do this on your own, use a more compact and lighter version of the tool.
In addition, a large amount of sandpaper will be needed, since not all areas can be reached with the tool.
And so, we come to the most important thing - how to polish a log house.
Grinding rules
- For safety reasons, prepare protective goggles and a mask with a respirator, to avoid getting small particles of wood in the eyes and respiratory tract, use work gloves.
- Distribute the work so that the well-treated wood is immediately covered with the protective agent.
- First, a coarse emery is used, and only at the end a finer grain emery.
- Get ready for the process of work being quite lengthy.
Wood floor care - sanding
Sanding is a finishing job and is an integral part of wood floor maintenance. How to sand a wooden floor is a pressing problem for many owners of this flooring.
In order for wood floors to serve for a long time and please with their appearance, they must be constantly kept in perfect condition: painted, covered with tinting compounds, wax or varnish, but all this will not have a result if the wood has not been ground beforehand. It is worth immediately figuring out what is the best way to sand the wood.
The work will require some costs - no, you do not have to buy special equipment, you can rent a grinder, or you have to invite a specialist.
But for a full-fledged work, you need to acquire a tool for places that a grinding device simply will not reach.
- This is sandpaper of various grain sizes in large quantities.
- Tool for simple (coarse) grinding - scraper.
- You will also need a so-called "boot" - a mini-machine for difficult areas.
Now we are figuring out how to properly sand a wooden floor.
Floor work
- We start by taking out all the furniture, removing the skirting boards.
- We check the floors for protruding nails and a secure fastening of the floorboards.
- We fill the equipment with coarse emery (40) and pass the room diagonally.
- We adjust the pressure of the drum to the floor - it should be medium.
- Remember to turn the machine on and off while driving.
- After the first pass over the area, the emery is replaced by smaller ones (100-120).
- At the end, we process corners and hard-to-reach areas with the help of a "boot", a loop and emery.
Now you know how to polish a wooden or parquet floor.
After the procedure, the floor must be vacuumed and you can start painting or varnishing.
Source: http://wood-prom.ru/clauses/sdelay-sam/chem-shlifovat-srub
Sanding wood with a sander and manually, choosing the grain of sandpaper
Wood products almost always require leveling and sanding at some point. In the course of such work, all traces of glue, protruding pile, irregularities, chips and other defects must be removed from the tree. Typically, wood is sanded before applying an adhesive, protective or decorative material (primer, paint, varnish, etc.) to it.
The grinding process has many subtleties and pitfalls, which it does not hurt to know in advance when doing work at home.
What and how can you grind
The goal of sanding wood is as quickly as possible and effectively remove defects without leaving noticeable deep scratches. To do this, you can use special tools - now their price is not too high.
On the free sale you can find several types of grinders:
- tape;
- oscillatory;
- grinders (angle grinders);
- surface grinding;
- orbital.
You can install not only abrasive wheels on the grinder, but also brushes. So, nylon brushes are actively used for grinding wood. They allow you to make the surface not only smooth, but also to highlight the texture of the wood, choosing softer fibers. This process is called brushing.
For large surfaces made of wood and materials based on it (veneer, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood), belt and surface grinders are best suited.
In addition, many people still prefer to grind decorative items, furniture, toys, frames by hand, and this is not such a bad way - it allows you to achieve a perfectly smooth surface efficiently and without unnecessary expenses. At least, when working with your own hands, you will not need to think about where to get a grinder (ask a neighbor, buy in a store, rent, leaving a deposit).
Belt type machine
Tape machines are named so because the sandpaper here is made in the format of a tape and it moves continuously thanks to the rollers. This machine is designed for intermediate and rough sanding. But in order to achieve perfect smoothness and perfect finishing (this is especially true for those who are engaged in the manufacture of furniture), you will have to additionally use other grinding equipment.
The belt sander can be fitted with different types of sandpaper. And, for example, when inserting sandpaper with a fine grain, it is quite possible to achieve a result normal for joinery that goes under dyeing. And, say, to eliminate long scratches, you will have to carry out stepwise grinding, changing the grain size several times.
The belt sander has excellent performance. However, it should be recognized that the tape is placed on it in such a way that not all points and grooves on the surface of the board can be properly processed.
Even with a large belt width, it grinds mainly with its center. The parts of the tape at the back and front are not used for this. They are in a slightly raised position and their main function is to feed the driving roller mechanisms.
Another obvious drawback of tape equipment is a solid mass, it is rather difficult to perform any actions with such machines on weight, processing vertical products.
There are tape machines for grinding wood and such a disadvantage as high noise - working without earplugs or headphones will not be very comfortable. And one more important point: if you leave the machine in one place for a long time during work, a fairly noticeable hole will appear.
Surface Grinder
Even sanding large wooden items with a surface grinder is quite fast. The key organ of the apparatus is a flat, rather large plate (sole), to which the required abrasive is attached. This design is famous for the almost complete absence of dead zones (that is, zones that cannot be reached with a machine and tolerably processed) - any corners are relatively easy to grind.
The demand for flat grinders among wood craftsmen is due to their moderate price and availability of equipment. When choosing such a machine, you should pay attention to such parameters as motor power (usually we are talking about indicators in the range from 150 to 300 watts), weight, amplitude and stroke frequency of the sole.
Manually
Sanding wood by hand, of course, requires a lot of labor and physical effort. But this method of grinding is a priori less aggressive and allows you to fully control the process. Even in hard-to-reach places - in corners and on difficult curved bends - you can get decent quality grinding when choosing a manual method.
With the so-called interlayer sanding of finishing coatings, manual work has no alternatives at all - only it allows you to eliminate the risk of damage to the already applied finish. Manual processing (when compared with grinders) allows you to get the smoothest and smoothest surface, although it takes several times longer.
Pads and sponges
The shoe is an extremely useful tool for manual grinding, its presence and correct application will speed up the process. The block is usually a regular wooden block wrapped in sandpaper. Its abrasive side should be on the outside, and the non-abrasive side should be attached to the block with a large stapler or PVA glue. In some hardware stores, ready-made pads with sandpaper are sold, that is, you can not do it yourself, but just buy it.
Foamed polyurethane sponges are also used for sanding wood. They are more convenient to use than emery, since you can rinse them after working under water. Abrasive sponges and wipes are great for finely hand sanding wood, allowing you to process even the smallest parts. They can also be used for sanding primed or varnished wood.
Selection of sandpaper
What is the best way to sand wood? What kind of sandpaper should you choose for your job? In fact, these are not such simple questions. Sandpaper today are made from different materials:
- pomegranate (very rare);
- silicon carbide;
- ceramics;
- electrocorundum and others.
Pomegranate is characterized by the fact that it grinds off faster than all other materials, but gently polishes the wood. And silicon carbide, according to experts, is perfect for sanding the lacquer coating and removing debris and dust particles stuck in it.
Ceramic sandpaper is usually used when sanding wood with grinders. Sandpaper with a ceramic work surface is one of the hardest and most expensive abrasives. Roughly the same can be said about corundum.
But the most important classification of emery is the grain size classification. At the moment, coarse-grained, medium-grained and fine-grained sandpaper are distinguished.
In the Russian Federation, the marking of emery products corresponds to the ISO-6344 standard - the grain size is indicated by the letter "P" and a number. The larger this number (it shows the exact number of sieve wires in one inch), the smaller the grain size. And, accordingly, the smoother the product becomes after grinding with such sandpaper. Typically, this marking is indicated on the packaging.
It is advisable to buy several types of paper at once for grinding wood. Coarse-grained paper is considered to be marked with a number from 40 to 80, it is suitable for rough processing. In the marking of medium-grained sandpaper, there are numbers from 100 to 150, and in the marking of fine-grained sandpaper, numbers in the range from 180 to 220.
Note! You can find marking according to GOST with the letter M. It means fine-grained sandpaper.
In addition, sandpaper is available with closed or open grit. The former are very densely covered with grain - that is, their abrasive is more effective and efficient. And on the basis of sandpaper with an open filling, the grains are much less (usually their share is no more than 60% of the entire surface of the canvas), so it is not so effective. But on the other hand, the presence of empty space between the grains prevents the sandpaper from clogging up quickly - this prolongs its service life.
Thus, closed sandpaper is suitable for hard surfaces, and with open sandpaper - for more pliable and soft.
Dry and wet sanding
For sanding wood before and after finishing coatings, two relevant techniques are used - dry and wet.
Dry grinding increases the efficiency of the abrasive and makes it possible to use it more accurately. At the stages of intermediate sanding of delicate finishing materials, this is what you need. The disadvantage of this technique is that the skin is quickly clogged with debris. To eliminate this problem, experts advise using an emery cloth with anti-clogging properties.
Wet sanding involves applying liquid to the gritty surface of the sandpaper. An ordinary soap solution, white spirit and mineral oil can act as such a working fluid.
Abrasives during wet grinding clog up much more slowly and, accordingly, its service life increases. But the wet method also involves the formation of an unpleasant mess of chips and foam. In this case, the home craftsman will have to periodically wipe the wooden product.
Manual grinding rules
Do-it-yourself sanding should be started with the coarse-grained sandpaper available in order to eliminate obvious defects from the wood surface. But here it is still necessary to take into account the nature of the damage that needs to be eliminated.
Note! If defects on the surface are minimal, then there is no point in starting with P40 abrasive (this abrasive is suitable only for very large bumps and depressions).
You need to influence the surface correctly: it is best to move the block or just sandpaper in a straight line along the fibers in the back and forth direction. And grinding, for example, in a circular motion can lead to unnecessary scratches.
Having reached the edge of the surface to be treated, be sure to grind off sharp corners. Soon, dust piles will begin to appear on the wood as a result of exposure to a coarse-grained abrasive. They should be carefully vacuum cleaned. Then you can proceed to processing the next sandpaper, which has medium grit.
This processing is carried out according to the same principles as described above. The final stage is grinding with the finest grit. After that, the wooden product should become completely flat, no flaws should remain on it.
Source: https://DrevoGid.com/zashhita/shlifovka
Hand grinding
Hand grinding is the treatment of parts and surfaces using hands and an abrasive tool, in which the top layer of the material being processed is removed.
The value of hand grinding
Currently, the industry offers a large number of electrical machines and tools for the grinding process. However, in many cases, it is hand grinding that has the advantage, which can provide:
- good uniform processing;
- better control over the process;
- high quality work in hard-to-reach and difficult places.
Sanding with a grinder, grinder, drill or other power tool gives a high-quality result when working on flat surfaces. However, machining corners, edges, curved spots is a tricky task for machines. In such cases, it is better to work with your hands. The movement and pressure of the abrasive tool can be easily controlled manually. As a result, the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even.
Mostly hand sanding is used when working with wood. To obtain a beautiful product, it is necessary to sand before applying varnishes and paints. Such processing opens the pores of the wood and removes small irregularities.
Also, sanding by hand is performed to maximize the adhesion of paints and varnishes on the painted surfaces, especially if the coating is carried out with a second layer on top of an existing layer. Sanding removes surface impurities, in addition, the surface acquires a slight roughness, which allows the paint to penetrate deeper into the structure of the material and create a durable coating.
When working on primed surfaces, the best adhesion of the topcoat is obtained by fine sanding by hand using the finest grit abrasives.
The choice of sanding paper
Manual grinding is carried out with abrasive paper, which is a special abrasive tool. It is a prepared base made of fabric, paper or metal, on which an abrasive material is applied with glue. Sandpaper is available in the following types:
- sheets;
- tapes;
- disks;
- circles, etc.
The most famous and simplest hand sanding product is sandpaper. It consists of a fabric or paper base with a layer of abrasive grains of artificial corundum or silicon carbide glued to it. It is the layer of these particles with sharp edges that removes the layer of material from the treated surface. Currently, there are these main types of sanding paper:
- glass coated emery;
- skin with corundum grains;
- silicon sandpaper.
These types are not particularly different from each other, they all have one drawback - a short operating time. The fact is that as a result of use, abrasive grains wear out, the base wears out, and the gaps between the grains are clogged with particles of the removed material and dust. But at the same time, the sandpaper has a low price, so you can purchase this consumable as needed.
You should choose a sanding paper according to the grain size, which is indicated in numbers. The grit class corresponds to the scope of application of this abrasive:
- from 40 to 80 - designed for preliminary sanding and removal of old coatings;
- from 100 to 140 - suitable for fine work and intermediate sanding when applying varnishes and paints;
- from 160 to 240 - for grinding thin layers of enamel coatings.
The higher the number indicated on the emery, the finer the grain.
In addition, abrasives are distinguished by the density of the abrasive filling, the method of applying abrasive grains, the properties of the base, the adhesive material and, accordingly, the price.
Sanding pad
The basic tool for hand sanding is a piece of wood wrapped with emery cloth, which professionals call a sanding block. The design of such a bar is so simple that anyone can make it with their own hands. Most often, a sanding block is made of wood, for which a parallelepiped is cut out with a size of about 200 by 30 mm and a thickness of about 10 mm.
These parameters allow you to comfortably hold the block in your hand for grinding surfaces of any configuration. A sandpaper is attached to a homemade workpiece using small nails. For a quick change of sanding paper, it is more convenient to use a special design bar, which has clamps to hold the emery.
You can buy such a sanding block, and if you wish, you can make it yourself from any suitable material:
- wood;
- traffic jams;
- metal;
- plastics, etc.
In any workshop, you can find leftover foam, tiles or other dense material that can be easily turned into a good helper for surface machining. You can also use old sponges or mouse pads that do not lose their shape when wet and can be used for wet sanding. a video on how to make a bar yourself can be seen on the corresponding sites.
For work, it is better to choose pads of a small size, since it is more convenient to use them, controlling the degree of stripping in the process. It is especially good to work with such a block when grinding a surface with a complex profile, as well as for processing hard-to-reach places (depressions, corners, joints, edges, etc.).
Abrasive sponge
If it is necessary to grind carved decorative surfaces with complex relief, as well as spherical and rounded shapes, it is recommended to use abrasive sponges. Their choice is wide enough. Externally, the sanding sponge looks like a regular dishwashing sponge. Abrasive sponges differ in the material used - an abrasive coating is applied to a durable polymer base.
Sponges and pads are great for sanding MDF and wood products, and can be used for both dry and wet sanding. Separate modifications of the sponges are intended for the final polishing of the product. Working with them, you can grind the smallest surface roughness, and then finish polishing to a high shine with a sponge containing wax.
Abrasive sponges are more expensive than traditional abrasive paper, but they will last long enough, and in some cases it is impossible to do without them (grinding inside corners, grooves and other difficult areas).
Features of hand sanding
In the process of manual grinding, there is constant hand control over the observance of the work technology, so the surface always turns out to be perfectly smooth. Nevertheless, to achieve the best result, some subtleties of the process should be observed:
- when grinding even flat surfaces, use grinding stones;
- sand only along the fibers (otherwise scratches may form);
- use large skins first;
- finish sanding with fine sandpaper;
- clean the sanding cloth from dust as necessary;
- use a respirator when working.
When sanding dry, the emery should be cleaned frequently. When sanding wet (with a humidifier such as white spirit or soapy water), you need to constantly wipe the work surface.
Source: http://www.zavodkorund.ru/stati/ruchnoe-shlifovanie
How to sand wood properly
For solid wood parts, it is customary to smooth out cuts or remove traces of glue, sand where chips have broken off, or clean out protruding wood fibers with the finest sandpaper before the wood is stained or varnished. Even plywood or veneer veneers, which have an almost smooth, flawless surface, can only be varnished without prior sanding as a last resort.
Solid wood panels and parts can have almost imperceptible irregularities, which will become clearly visible after applying varnish, stain or other protective agent.
It is clear that sanding should not lead to new scratches and furrows. You can avoid this hazard by using the correct sandpaper and a stone for your product.
how to grind wood properly
When the part is ready, its surface should be carefully sanded.
Checking wood for light
Irregularities on the surface of a part made of wood are more noticeable if the light does not fall directly, but along the surface: then all the grooves, mounds and protruding fibers appear clearly. Hold the part against a light source if you want to test the quality of your work.
Do not sand wood with coils of fine steel wire
Hardware stores sell the finest steel wire coiled in coils. On the packaging of such a skein it is written that, in particular, it can be used to grind wood. But if you intend to varnish the part, never use this sanding agent. Despite careful cleaning of dust, tiny particles of wire can remain and after a while begin to rust, staining the surface and reducing the durability of the varnish coating.
Cycling
When planing solid wood blanks, more or less noticeable grooves remain after the plane. It is best to eliminate them with cycles.
Many home craftsmen prefer to process surfaces with just one cycle and completely abandon sandpaper. Well-sharpened cycles can clean planed surfaces and give them an almost flawless appearance.
The cycle is a metal rectangle with a cutting edge sharpened at a right angle, which is carried over the surface. The cutting edge is dull and needs to be sharpened from time to time. First, a chamfer (the beveled side of the cutting part) is ground on a sharpening bar or wheel, then the cycle is turned over, laid flat on the bar and in this position is driven over the stone in straight or circular movements, capturing the cutting edge of the edge.
When working, the cycle is taken with both hands so that the thumbs are in the middle of the face facing you. Always set the cycle at an angle and guide it in the direction of the wood fibers. Use the cycle only on solid wood, plywood or veneer. Chipboards quickly dull cycles and leave jagged edges. It is better to use sandpaper for the treatment of putty surfaces.
scraper tool for thin stripping of veneer wood
The loops clean up irregularities left by a plane or protruding wood fibers.
Moisturizing wood and applying a primer
Whether you are cleaning with cycles or in some other way, in any case, before sanding the surface of parts made of solid wood or faced with plywood or veneer, it must be moistened.
For this, it is better to use warm water (you can even hot water if the part is made of solid wood). Then you need to wait until the parts are completely dry. Small dents will disappear when exposed to water.
But the cut wood fibers, which are pressed to the surface of the part before moistening, swell and, having dried up a little, stand upright. Therefore, a surface that seemed perfectly even before moistening often becomes rough and fleecy.
After sanding, the surface becomes smooth again.
Fast sanding primer
The surface of a part made of wood, regardless of whether it retains its natural appearance or is covered with stain or varnish, is primed.
The primer closes all the pores, as if sealing them.
As a result, the hygroscopicity of the wood decreases, and the paint adheres better and more evenly than on an unprimed surface.
Make sure the room you are working in is dry, dust-free and not too cool. This will create the ideal working environment. It is more convenient to apply the primer with a soft flat brush.
The primer dries up in about half an hour. But wait at least an hour before sanding the primed surface with the finest grit (no. 240). Work only in the direction of the grain of the wood, change the skin more often and knock out the fine dust that forms during sanding.
The surface, which seemed to be impeccably smooth, became rough and fluffy after moistening.
On the prepared surface, gently apply the diluted primer with a flat brush.
Sanding flat surfaces
When sanding flat surfaces, it is important to use emery paper correctly: too coarse sandpaper will scratch the wood, sandpaper without a boss treats the surface unevenly. The boss ensures an even adherence of the skin to the tree over a relatively large area.
Usually a cork boss is used. But a small wooden block with smooth, smooth edges is also quite suitable.
You can also use special pads-holders made of hard rubber or plastic: they consist of two parts - upper and lower, between which sandpaper is laid.
Coarse first, then fine
To clean rough cuts with a saw, use a sandpaper with a coarse-grained abrasive coating (grain size 100). Sliced surfaces are sanded with 120 grit sandpaper. For fine, final sanding, use 180 or 240 grit sandpaper.
Sand the wood all the time in the direction of grain growth and without undue effort. Experienced craftsmen avoid sanding the surfaces for a long time, while their movements are very light, almost without pressure.
As a result, the tiny ends of the fibers are only pressed against the surface, but not cut off.
A special grinding device - the so-called "sand plates" of various sizes and grain sizes. Each is a steel plate with tiny sharp-edged pins protruding on the surface. When grinding with such a plate, due to the large distance between the "pins", a lot of sawdust is formed, and their cutting edges remain sharp for a long time. In the case, "sand plates" are noticeably "more aggressive" than ordinary sandpaper.
If the surfaces of large parts are sanded by running a lug wrapped with sandpaper over them, then when processing small parts, they proceed differently: a piece of skin of a suitable size is fixed on a workbench with strips of adhesive tape and held over the skin with a piece. This avoids rounding at the edges. Before proceeding with further processing of the part, after grinding it should be thoroughly cleaned of dust.
sanding wood sandpaper
When sanding flat surfaces, use a bore so that the skin is evenly pressed against the wood.
wood sanding
Small parts are best sanded by rubbing over sandpaper attached to a workbench.
Accessories made of cork and plastic for fixing the sandpaper. "Sand plates" are glued to the grip plate.
Curved lines and profiles
Sanding difficult edges and profiles requires a special flair and the right sander. A lug with sandpaper pad will not work here. It is often more convenient to work by simply taking the paper in your hand and clamping its edges between your fingers so that they do not scratch the part.
When processing parts of complex shapes, it is advisable to use homemade "files". They make them in the following way. Narrow strips of sandpaper are glued onto strips or round sticks. With these "files" you can clean the smallest rounds or the narrowest grooves on turned parts.
For sanding rounded surfaces, emery pads work well and are available from hardware stores along with sandpaper. The sponges have an abrasive coating of coarse, medium or fine grain on both sides, and a thin soft pad between the coatings gives the sponge special flexibility and elasticity. There are also sanding pads that are thicker and rather rigid: they are designed for sanding smooth, flawless surfaces.
Wood dust is removed from the sponge by crushing it. You can also wash the sponge, but wait until it is completely dry before using it again.
Coarse, medium and fine grit sanding pads are especially good for sanding curves and profiles.
The emery pads are so flexible that they fit snugly around any rounding and even multi-step profiles.
sandpaper for wood
If you are supporting the sandpaper with your hand, make sure that the edges of the paper do not scratch the wood.
Emery files can be made from strips of suitable emery paper glued to strips or round sticks.
Rounding
The processing of a wooden part is usually completed by rounding its edges a little, that is, the sharp edges of the transitions from one plane to another or from the front surface to the end surface are slightly grinded.
Be very careful and careful when performing this work, as sharp edges of the part can injure you. Avoid sudden movements when overturning the part, which can lead to its impact on some hard object and, accordingly, to damage.
After making the rounds, the treated surface can be varnished. Note that on the rounded edge the varnish lays down with a uniform film and adheres better, while on the sharp edge of the transition from one plane to another, this film is very thin and often breaks.
Make rounds using only emery paper with a boss, which should be guided at a 45 degree angle to both surfaces. The boss ensures uniform grinding and rounding.
Make sure that the work, if possible, is carried out in the direction of the grain of the wood, and on the end sides - from the middle to the edges. When sanding along the edge, you need to slightly press the boss with sandpaper to the surface so as not to break off the wood fibers.
When rounding the edges, guide the emery paper-wrapped boss at an angle to the side edges or with light pressure along the edge.
Angle grinder (angle grinder)
The wide range of power tools on the Russian market is designed to facilitate different types of handicraft work. If in the professional field the purchase of specialized equipment is simply necessary, then in everyday life it is not always rational to spend money on an expensive tool, which, after performing a certain job, may not be useful at all. The most popular power tool is an angle grinder (angle grinder). The scope of its application is not limited to metal processing - wood polishing with a grinder is performed using special attachments.
For those who do not know "Is it possible to process wood with a grinder?" this article will be helpful. To sand and polish wood products or large solid surfaces, you will need to purchase the appropriate attachment - a circle. For grinders of different sizes, attachments are selected that are designed for a certain speed of rotation. Special discs designed for wood processing must be carefully selected. The disc must correspond to the dimensions of the tool; a special nut is used to secure it.
When working with angle grinders, it is necessary to strictly observe safety precautions and use only factory wheels that are suitable for a specific model of power tools.
Wood processing with a grinder
Coarse wood grinding discs for angle grinders
There are several types of circles, which differ in shape, material of manufacture and purpose. As a rule, a piece of wood must first undergo a rough surface treatment, after which it is subjected to finishing or final detailing of the coating with abrasive segments.
For such work, there is a special nozzle for a grinder for grinding wood. The most popular are:
- Rough discs. This grinder attachment is best used to remove a layer of old paint. Also suitable for varnished coatings that cannot be removed by hand. It can be a wooden floor or window sill painted several times. The construction of abrasive discs consists of a disc and metal bristles made of elastic wire. The attachments are available in a variety of steel bristle arrangements. Depending on the achievement of the desired effect, the bristles can be placed along the entire perimeter of the disc parallel to the instrument or perpendicular to the segment - as in a conventional brush.
- Cord brushes are a coarse abrasive disc designed for rough sanding and unevenness on wood. With the help of this tool, the wood blank gets its final shape. Productivity is significantly higher compared to conventional hand tools.
- End discs. Nozzles are used when you need to align the product from the end. Bevel cuts and workpiece edges require such processing. The technique of execution is identical to a file, but the efficiency of the abrasive exceeds that of a hand tool. When working with a segment, it is important to have skills and then such a simple tool can completely replace the molding cutter in terms of edge processing.
With the help of a grinder for polishing wood, you can completely restore furniture covered with varnish and paint. After such cleaning, the thickness of the wooden base practically does not decrease, but the newly painted furniture will look beautiful and spectacular.
When performing grinding work with a grinder, the choice of tool is not so significant compared to the presence of well-dried wood and the absence of cracks on the surface.
Gentle grinding wheels and their area of application
To grind wood with a grinder, attachments of a universal design and with a special gentle coating are used. Such mechanical processing is intended for the production of certain works:
- Flap disc is used for grinding the solid. The design of this segment lives up to its name. Its working surface is equipped with a large number of trapezoidal sandpaper petals that overlap each other like fish scales (overlapping the previous row by three quarters). With this arrangement of the petals, the abrasion of the nozzle is much slower.
This is the most common type of grinder attachment for grinding wood, which performs soft surface treatment, and the tool itself is less traumatic. To achieve the desired degree of processing and high quality, the disc is selected according to the grain size. The size of the abrasive determines how quickly and efficiently irregularities on a wooden surface will be removed.
The sanded coating at different stages of processing may remain a little rough or be perfectly even without the slightest flaws and snags. Achieving the final result can be achieved by successively changing from abrasive discs with coarse grain to segments for finer processing. Therefore, you will need several discs per grinder for grinding wood, which will be changed step by step.
To use the petal nozzle, certain skills are required, which means that training before doing important work will be simply necessary.
- Wheels for soft grinding. The universal grinder attachment for grinding wood appeared on the market relatively recently and is distinguished by its special design and high functionality. Roughing work is intended to be carried out with replaceable discs with the desired grain size, which are attached to the sticky base of the nozzle. In this regard, the abrasive tool has received the appropriate name - sticky disc.
The main advantage of a wheel for a grinder for grinding wood is a quick change of a worn replaceable disc: the whole procedure takes place without removing the main nozzle, which is fixed with a nut. To begin with, you need to purchase a sticky attachment for grinding on a grinder, so that later, without any difficulties, you can replace the worn abrasive segment.
How to choose angle grinder attachments
Circles should be selected according to the main parameters:
- outer diameter (with large dimensions, the processing process is accelerated and the service life is increased);
- landing diameter (installation of a larger circle on a smaller one is possible with the help of a special adapter);
- thickness (the greater the thickness, the longer the segment will last);
- granularity (the fraction must correspond to the type of processing: coarse abrasive for rough work, and fine - for soft processing and creating a finishing coat);
- the type of segment (special attachments are suitable for processing wooden surfaces).
Reference! The shaft diameter in modern wood angle grinders is 22.2 mm.
What you need to know when working with a grinder
Renovation of flooring (parquet), furniture or the facade of a house, where there are wooden structures or individual elements, is carried out using a grinder for grinding, which is equipped with different attachments. Therefore, it is not surprising that an angle grinder for polishing wood is a popular power tool among professionals and in everyday life. But in order to choose the right tool for the job, it is necessary to carefully examine the wooden surface for the presence of fungus, cracks and irregularities. A video is provided to help beginners who want to know "How to grind wood with a grinder".
For each model of angle grinder, a grinding attachment must be selected without fail, only in this case safe work and high-quality surface treatment will be guaranteed. Before you start working with a grinder (sanding wood), you need to make sure that the disc is properly fixed. Move the angle machine over the surface smoothly and avoid vibration of the tool.
When working with angle grinders for grinding wood, it is unacceptable to use discs of small thickness (high rotation speed and load lead to a break in the circle, which is fraught with injury).
The cost of wheels for woodwork
The price of a tool for polishing a wooden surface is not high, but depends on the material, diameter and thickness. The table shows the average cost of an abrasive tool in large cities of Russia:
| Name of cities | The price of nozzles for a tree, rubles per unit | ||||
| Abrasive discs for soft grinding | Rough (grinding) circles | End | Cord brushes | ||
| Moscow | from 70 to 900 | from 35 to 14900 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| St. Petersburg | from 95 to 800 | from 35 to 14900 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Chelyabinsk | from 262 to 820 | from 35 to 14900 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Novosibirsk | from 100 to 760 | from 35 to 9000 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
| Kaliningrad | from 57 to 660 | from 35 to 9000 | from 86 to 270 | from 33 to 430 | from 36 to 5400 |
Manual work requires the use of quality tools, and an angle grinder with attachments greatly facilitates work and speeds up the process of processing a wooden surface.
HOW TO GRIND WOOD CORRECTLY
After completing the part, its surface must be carefully sanded.
The trade also offers wax that must be diluted with water. When thinning the wax, try to achieve the shade you want so that you do not have to redo the work later. The finished wax is applied in a very thin and even layer.
But whatever type of wax you use, the wood after coating must be left to dry for at least an hour so that the wax is absorbed. Then the excess should be removed, otherwise they will resemble greasy stains. After this treatment, the surface will become dull.
If you want to achieve a shine, reapply the wax. Since the pores of the wood were filled with wax even when the first coat was applied, only a small amount of it is now absorbed. A film will remain on the surface. This layer is not wiped, but treated with a skein of thin steel wire (000 or 0000) or cloth - like polishing shoes after applying a cream. If the surface is too shiny, take a new roll of wire or turn the felt over to remove excess wax.
TURKEY AND BEESWAX WAX
Although furniture wax can be purchased without problems today, some DIYers prefer to use their own solution. Especially when a large amount is required. In this case, making your own mixture may be more profitable financially than buying a ready-made one.
To prepare the composition for covering furniture, you will need beeswax and turpentine as a solvent. Beeswax comes in various shades of color - from straw yellow to very rich orange. If you are working on light-colored wood that you would like to preserve color after waxing, you can use bleached wax to prepare your homemade mixture.
The wax mix gives a stronger, more durable finish when you add a little carnauba wax, a fairly hard resin to it.
WATER BATH
To prepare the mixture, take the finished wax, chop it with a knife or chisel. Then place in a jar with the same amount of turpentine and heat in a water bath over low heat. After the wax is completely melted, remove the pot from the stove. Add a little wax to the hot mixture until a thick paste is obtained. Stir it well with a wooden stick.
Only after complete cooling is it possible to judge the consistency of the mixture. If the furniture wax you have prepared seems too thick or too thin, add - again in a water bath - a little turpentine or crushed wax. Turn off the stove for all manipulations with the hot mixture, otherwise the turpentine may ignite. Store furniture wax in a tightly closed container.
PROTECTIVE COVERING
It is not customary to hide the veneer surface under a layer of opaque varnish. To show the structure of the wood, transparent coatings are used. The matt finish enhances the natural color of the wood and protects it.
Unprotected wood, such as the surface of furniture, will soon be covered with water stains, scratches or traces of dirt. Therefore, it is advisable to apply a protective coating to everyday furniture, from which dirt can be easily removed.
The matte finish forms a protective layer on the surface of the wood, which is much harder and more durable than wax. A matt finish is less visible on wood than a varnish or clear varnish. However, if a matte finish is applied too thick, an unpleasant “greasy” sheen may result.
The matte finish penetrates the upper pores of the wood and changes the reflectivity of the surface. Its color becomes more intense and warmer. When a matte finish is applied to untreated wood, it begins to shine, experts say. The natural color of wood becomes more saturated with this method of processing.
COATING MATERIAL
1. Primer.
2. Matte finish.
3. Solvent.
TOOL
1. A device for grinding.
3. Wet cloth.
5. Sandpaper with a block.
6. Woolen fabric.
7. Old newspapers.
8. Brush or broom.
9. Swabs made of cotton, thin linen or cotton fabric.
10. Frequent grid brush.
SHELLAC AND CELLULOSE
There are two types of matte finish. One of them is shellac, the most important component of which is obtained from the secret secreted by the scale insects. It is peeled, discolored and leafy shaped. The matte finish obtained from shellac has a light yellow color. If they want to make very light wood matte, leaving the color unchanged, use bleached shellac (but only specialists can do this).
Another type of matte finish is cellulose. Today it is used much more widely than traditional shellac. Cellulose forms a strong layer and is more resistant than shellac, and therefore is especially suitable for everyday furniture.
JUST DISSOLVE
Previously, carpenters and restorers prepared their own matt surface coatings. Today, ready-made formulations are increasingly used, which are diluted immediately before use.
The matte finish is applied with a swab. Unlike a brush, it fills the pores of the wood with liquid deeper. Thus, a soft shine is obtained. The coating is applied in thin layers several times.
HOW TO STRENGTHEN YOUR PROTECTION
If you want to better protect the wood and at the same time increase the shine, apply a second one after the first coat has dried. If this is not enough, cover the surface a third time.
The cellulose coating can also be applied with a brush. Since a large brush will absorb about the volume of a tennis ball, the finished surface may appear striped. Each new stroke is clearly visible with a brush. In such cases, the surface should be treated with a coil of thin steel wire.
PRE-TREATMENT WITH CHAIN
A tightly packed swab absorbs liquid slowly. Therefore, it needs to be wetted longer.
DOSED PRESSURE
A swab well soaked in liquid, from which the solution should not drip, is transferred to the surface of the tree. Too much pressure is just as harmful as too little pressure. Do not apply a large amount of matte finish, it is better to apply another layer after drying.
Move the swab only in the direction of the grain of the wood, stroke by stroke. Apply the matte finish evenly over the entire surface, so that after the first coat dries, an even matt shine is visible on the wood.
The thinner the matte finish, the easier it is to work and the less shellac is applied to the wood. Thinner gives a slight shine after each swabbing on the wood.
The solvent evaporates and the wood becomes dull again. Therefore, it is not necessary to evaluate the resulting coating immediately, but after it dries. Only then can you see if one layer is enough or if you need to apply a second, or even a third layer.
If the matte finish looks streaky (uneven gloss intensity), this can be corrected with a coil of fine steel wire (000 or 0000).
Wood has many useful qualities and aesthetic properties and, thanks to them, is the most demanded material in the construction and decoration of houses.
In the production of wooden, finishing panels, it is not always possible to obtain a perfectly flat surface, on the boards there are practically invisible (but clearly visible after painting) waves from the machine, in the case of a wooden floor there are drops at the joints.
All these errors can be easily corrected by grinding, a medium abrasive will smooth them out, and a smaller one will finally remove them. And in this article, we will analyze with you which tool is best to use to effectively solve various problems.
Pre-sanding tools for wood
Belt sander (LSHM) with the help of which it is good to do rough grinding on molded products. By the way, the larger the lower part of the machine, on which the belt runs, the smoother the grinding will be, and also pay attention to the speed, too small for inexpensive models will not allow you to achieve the standard.
Photo 1. Belt sander (LSHM)
Straight sander (PSHM) or vibration is a great option for fine processing. The back and forth motion of the sole with the abrasive pad quickly removes the top layer of the wood. For corners, you will need a version of it - a delta sander with a sole in the form of an iron.
Photo 2. Straight grinder (PSHM)
Eccentric (orbital) sander (ESHM)- an even better option than PSHM. Thanks to the reciprocating movements and the offset of the center of rotation, it allows processing at a very high level. Wheels for it can be purchased from 80 to 320 units, i.e. this tool allows you to complete all the steps yourself.
Photo 3. Eccentric (orbital) sander
Angle grinder (angle grinder) using a grinder, you can remove a fairly large layer of wood or old paint (for example, during restoration). Also for this type of tool there is a great variety of attachments (brush, disc, petal). And this means that you can grind even the most inaccessible places, for example, between two chamfers of imitation of a bar.
Photo 4. Angle grinder (angle grinder)
Grinding and calibrating machine. In factories, it is used for preliminary grinding. The pressing iron allows you to remove a fixed layer of wood, to open the pores. Not suitable for intermediate work.
Photo 5. Grinding and calibrating machine
Abrasive bar, sandpaper of different grain size on the pads, metal wool - all this is indispensable for various chamfers, roundings, hard-to-reach places and corners. And with the help of these simple pieces, you can easily perform intermediate sanding, shake off the raised pile from the face.
Photo 6. Abrasive stone for grinding
Rules to follow
Before starting work, it is necessary to evaluate the material, which must be necessarily dry (no more than 14%), the high moisture content of the material will certainly affect the quality of the grinding.
If during the inspection you find cobweb-like cracks, traces of a cutter, irregularities, then you should take an abrasive from sixty to eighty units and in the process perform grinding with one hundred and twentieth, one hundred and fifty grains. This is the standard when small grain removes traces of large grain. Those. the best result can be achieved by using two or even three tapes of different grain sizes.
Specialists always perform these operations if wood with a thickness of 16 mm or more, and thinner material, for example, lining 13 mm thick, is ground only with a medium-sized abrasive (120-150), otherwise the thickness can be greatly reduced and after processing paintwork materials, bending and twisting can be obtained. It is worth knowing that soft woods, which are easy to process, need to be sanded very carefully, because any press will leave a mark, a dent, which will appear after painting.
Grinding wheels, belts, sandpaper must be changed during operation, because their wear will sharply worsen the quality of work. If visible stripes remain on the surface, then it is worth taking a rag and removing dust from the surface as often as possible. When using LSHM and ESHM, do not hold the tool in one place. You need to work with these machines intensively. Otherwise, "dips" on the face of the board are guaranteed to you.
A little practice secret: to smooth the surface, take a regular pencil and apply strokes. With proper processing, they will completely disappear.
We hope that our tips will help you choose the right tools for your sanding and make it with quality. Remember that 70% of paint success depends on pre-treatment. Almost all troubles can be avoided at this stage, but at this stage they can be laid down.
When making wood products, the question often arises: "How to polish wood?" using a polish to give a protective finish. Most often, polishing is used for finishing furniture and handicrafts. The polished surface preserves the texture of the wood and gives the product a beautiful appearance.
Application of polishing for finishing
For finishing, several methods are used for which, substances are used:
- varnish;
- drying oil;
- wax paste.
When finishing wood products, when varnish is used for polishing, a protective layer is formed, which gives the surface a presentation. The polishing process consists in applying a special composition of varnish containing three times less resin than in varnish. The coating formed on the wood has a transparent structure and a glossy shade.
When choosing a finishing and polishing method, the type of wood must be taken into account. Wood species are most suitable for the manufacture of furniture:
- mahogany;
- birch;
- pears;
- boxwood;
- maple;
- apple trees.
They are also widely used, but rather laborious in processing the breed:
- oak;
- pine trees.
Products used for polishing wood
For wood polishing in commercial enterprises, a large list of various finishing substances is offered:
- Shellac varnish - used for finishing furniture.
- Alkyd varnish - used for covering parquet.
- Acrylic varnish - used for processing wood products.
- Polyurethane varnish - used to protect wooden products from atmospheric precipitation.
- Nitrolac - used for processing wood products.
You can make wood polish using certain substances at home:
- shellac resin - 60 g;
- ethyl alcohol 90 * - 500 ml.
The manufacturing process is quite simple. Resin is poured into a glass container and poured with alcohol, mixed well, closed with a tight lid and infused until the resin is completely dissolved. Further, the composition is filtered and used as intended for polishing wood products.
Polishing technology
The wood polishing process is carried out in several stages:
- surface grinding;
- applying primer;
- polishing;
- polishing.
Surface sanding
The sanding process is not particularly difficult, but it takes a long time to give the wood the desired look. The surface of the wood intended for finishing must not have burrs, chips, cracks and other irregularities. For this, the tree is processed in 3 stages:
- sandpaper No. 46-60;
- sandpaper No. 80-100;
- sandpaper No. 140-170,
until the surface is smooth, even, glossy.
Sanding is done with a wooden block wrapped with sandpaper along the grain of the wood. After sanding, the surface is wiped with a dry clean cloth, moistened with water and wiped again with a dry cloth. A pause is maintained until complete drying for 2 hours and processed with sandpaper No. 120-140 until the remaining wood fibers are completely removed. If necessary, the operation is repeated several times until the wood is glossy.
Primer application
The priming process is carried out using a special swab by applying varnish to the wooden surface. The tampon must be made of linen fabric without fail (does not leave fabric lint).
All work processes are performed in the following sequence:
- the tampon is impregnated with varnish and with its help the entire surface of the wood is processed until a uniform coating is formed;
- a pause is maintained until the varnish is completely dry, cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a clean dry cloth;
- additional 2 layers of varnish are applied;
- a composition is being prepared, consisting of 1 hour of polish and 1 hour of varnish, which covers the entire surface;
- drying of the tree is carried out within 2 days.
Polishing
The polishing process consists in applying polish to the wood and is carried out in the following sequence:
- a small amount of vegetable oil is applied to a linen swab for better gliding on the treated surface;
- the entire surface is gently wiped with a swab moistened with polish;
- the processing operation is carried out 3 times with pauses after applying each layer until the polish is completely dry;
- the wood is processed with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a dry cloth (after each time the polish is applied).
Polishing
In order to polish the wood to an ideal state, working operations are performed several times until the desired result is achieved.
The following works are performed:
- the tree is processed with fine-grained sandpaper dipped in vegetable oil;
- a small amount of vegetable oil and polish is applied to the tampon and the entire surface is processed (the operation is repeated several times).
When carrying out polishing operations when varnish or varnish is used, it is necessary to follow the entire technological process to create a durable, even, glossy finish on the wood. If you have certain skills and the appropriate substances, you can also finish wood products at home.