The annual preparation of grapes for winter includes several procedures - providing conditions for the full ripening of the vine, pruning, feeding, watering, protection from diseases and pests. The further health and immunity of the vineyard will depend on how correctly and on time such care is provided.
Conditions for successful wintering
In winter, the grape bush must go with a well-ripened vine, otherwise there is a high risk of freezing of the aboveground part. You can determine the maturity of the vine by its characteristic straw color, hardness, cod when bending, but not breaking. Even during the frost period, the ripened vine remains warm, in contrast to the immature one.
Before covering the vineyard, it is necessary to carry out several activities that will contribute to the high-quality ripening of the shoots:
- normalization of the load of bushes, shoots, as well as thinning during the growing season;
- pinching and pruning unnecessary leaves;
- root and foliar feeding;
- treatments for diseases and pests;
- compliance with irrigation schemes and norms.
Watering
Before sheltering the grapes for the winter, water-charging irrigation should be carried out, which will provide the bushes with good winter hardiness and protection from freezing. On dry soil, frosts quickly penetrate deep and contribute to injury to the root system.
Watering in specially prepared holes - they pull out 2-3 holes to a depth of 25 cm. Consumption per adult bush - 5-6 buckets, seedling - 4 buckets. The second option is to moisten the trenches, which are dug out to plant each vine for the winter.
If the fall is rainy and the vineyard grows on loose soil, there is no need for pre-winter watering.
Moisture-charging irrigation will provide the bushes with freeze protection
Top dressing
At the end of the growing season, after harvesting, it is fed. A balanced diet helps to restore the strength of the plants and prepare for the next fruiting season.
Food in the fall is carried out in two stages.
- The first fertilizer is applied in early September to speed up the ripening process of the vine and prepare the bushes for wintering. For 1 sq. m. vineyard use 1 tsp. potassium salt and 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate. Nutrient components can be a good addition to the first feeding: boric acid, manganese sulfate and zinc sulfate - 2 g each. If the soil is sandy loam, then potassium iodine is added to the total composition - 1 g.
- In late autumn, a second meal is carried out, which increases the immunity of plants from various diseases, pests and winter cold. For 1 sq. m. make 25 g of phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, the near-trunk zone is spilled with a solution of wood ash - 300 g of the substance is dissolved in a bucket of water. Pour 10 liters of nutrient solution under each plant.
Top dressing is combined with watering to improve the absorption of nutrients by the roots in winter. After each top dressing, the soil in the near-trunk zone is mulched with compost, last year's manure, peat or garden soil.
Subtleties of pre-winter pruning
Before the grapes are sheltered for the winter, winter pruning is carried out. But not everywhere - mainly in the regions of sheltering viticulture. Bushes that are trimmed correctly are easier to cover and provide good protection from the winter cold.
General rules
There are several important rules to follow during pruning:
- all cuts should be facing the inside of the plant;
- young non-bearing growth is removed on the ring;
- replacement knots are left on the bush, close to the trunk;
- after cutting, all shoots are removed from the site and burned to prevent the appearance of infections and pests;
- before covering the grapes in winter, additionally remove all disease-damaged and too old branches.
In the process of trimming the shoots, small stumps are left - from 1 to 1.5 cm in length for better and faster healing of wounds. The timing of pruning in each region is different and depends on climatic and weather conditions.
Scheme
In order for the bush to bear fruit abundantly and annually, during autumn pruning it is important to determine the number of sleeves - they leave the strongest and thickest ones. Make sure that the load on the bush is even on both sides of the trellis. Usually, the replacement of fruiting sleeves is carried out no more often than once every eight years. As a substitute material, young shoots are used, as well as shoots formed in the area of the trunk.
Depending on the variety, the laying of fruiting buds is different - in some plants they are formed from 3-4 buds, in others from 7-8, and in others from 12-15. Therefore, short pruning is carried out for 2-4 buds, medium - for 5-8, long - for 12-16 buds.
Based on this, the average number of eyes per bush is determined:
- for the young - 10-20;
- medium - 20-40;
- an adult fruiting bush - 40-60.
Pruning seedlings
Pruning of grown bushes (3-4 years old) is carried out taking into account the necessary formation of the bush. The above scheme is applied for adult fruiting plants.
Stepping
The first pinching procedure is carried out in the spring about a month after the beginning of the growing season, when 3-4 pairs of young leaves appear on the lateral branches.
Young shoots are pinched, leaving the lower part with 2-3 leaves.
In summer, stepchildren of the second order can form on the side lashes, they need to be completely pinched off, because they will not become full-fledged fruitful vines and will inhibit the growth and development of the main lateral shoots.
Also, young shoots, which are formed in the area of grape clusters, are subject to removal. The plant will gain more access to light and air. This procedure makes it easier for insects to access the inflorescences, which improves the quality of pollination of the bushes.
A month before harvest, some growers pinch off the leaves around each bunch, as well as at the bottom of the bush, which speeds up the process of pouring and ripening the berries.
On bushes that regularly stepchild, fertile vines ripen better, since they receive the maximum amount of nutrients.
Protection against diseases and pests
After completing the preparatory work, the bushes can be closed. Winegrowers use several methods of sheltering grapes for the winter.
Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
- Hilling. This method of warming is advisable for young plants - 1-2 years old. An earthen mound 15-20 cm high is made over the seedling.
- Semi-shelter. It is used to protect the near-stem zone of adult plants. The bases of the shoots, sleeves and the central part of the grapes are covered with straw or agrofibre.
- Complete shelter of the grapes. Such insulation is carried out as follows: first, the vine is cut, tilted to the ground, then covered with film material or agrofibre. Sprinkle with soil on top. To prevent the shoots from getting clogged and moldy, several holes are made in the tissue for oxygen to enter.
You need to close the grapes before the onset of the first frost in the fall.
After all, you will need to take into account a lot of important nuances, among which pruning and shelter mean a lot. How the shoots will feel in spring and their yield depends on this.
Why grapes need to be protected in winter
Frost, piercing cold, sharp fluctuations in temperature are very dangerous for grapes. A plant without proper preparation for winter in some regions may die. The cold season is most dangerous for bushes planted in open ground, and not in a school. Before the harsh winters, the seedlings should be properly hidden in order to enjoy the rich harvest of berries and juicy, healthy leaves from which you can make delicious dolma the next year.
It is important to remember that you need to cover:
- unstable berry varieties;
- hybrid forms;
- young seedlings;
- complex-resistant bushes.
Some grape varieties are frost resistant. However, they also need to be properly prepared for winter, taking into account some of the climate features in the regions.
Proper preparation of grapes for wintering: basic recommendations
Harvesting vines for the winter period has several features and conditions. You need to spend it in the fall. The main thing to do is prune the plant correctly. Bushes will need to be bent to ground level and cover the grapes thoroughly. Pruning is also acceptable in the spring months.
Note! Pruning the seedlings in the fall is the most rational, as this time allows the planting to be reduced in size and helps to make bending to the ground easier.
In the spring, sap can come out of the pruned vines, which in turn will cause a weakening of the crop and a decrease in the level of yield.
Preparation of culture in the Urals
In the Urals, there are some subtleties of preparing grapes for harsh winters. In these regions, pruning with a fruit arrow and a replacement knot is not allowed, since the climatic conditions have a lot of peculiarities. Already in March, sharp jumps in temperature are observed, which leads to a cessation of the development of the first buds.
Here you need to remove all the stepsons and shoots up to the part that is lignified. A maximum of 12 buds can be left. In the first year, it is not recommended to prune the bushes. Keep 4 arms, however, as the cultivation of this crop in the area can be unpredictable due to the harsh conditions.
Preparing grapes for winter in the Urals
Autumn work with vines in the middle lane and in the Moscow region
In the middle lane with sufficient mild winters, the vines are prepared for cold weather a couple of weeks after leaf fall. However, waiting for frost is not recommended. In these regions it is necessary:
- completely cut off young shoots;
- remove all stepsons;
- leave the stems up to 12 eyes, if they are fruit.
On a note! In other cases, the lower branches should be cut off, leaving no more than 4 eyes.
In the middle regions, it is worth removing the plant from the supports and bending to the ground. From above, a shelter is created from dry leaves, special material, slate, straw.
Growing and caring for grapes in the Moscow region involves the correct bending of the vines to the ground. It is very important that they do not come into close contact with the ground. Planks of wood are usually laid on the soil, which will avoid the formation of condensation, the appearance of mold, and decay of seedlings.
Additionally, you can treat the plant with copper sulfate to protect it from harmful microorganisms.
Abundant shelter for some types of culture is not required. These varieties include:
- Northern early;
- Jubilee Novgorod;
- Moscow sustainable.
A small amount of spruce branches will be enough for them.
How to prune grapes for the winter
In order to preserve the grapes well in winter, it is very important to correctly prune them in the fall. In the process, parts that have stopped bearing fruit are removed from the vines. Only the replacement knot and the fruit arrow will need to be left. It is equally important to remove:
- old sleeves;
- damaged parts;
- diseased vines;
- unripe areas.
The procedure should be divided into 2 approaches. The first time it needs to be done after harvesting to remove dried and weak branches.
Correctly prune grapes for the winter
The main stage can begin after dropping all the leaves by the bush. It is very important to have time to complete the work before the first frost, at an air temperature of at least -3. All shoots above 1.5 meters are removed in the first days of September. Bushes that exceed the second support wire must be cut by 30 cm. The main thing is not to exceed the shoot removal by more than 10%. All stepchildren are sure to be cut off. The bottom of the plant should be the basis for the replacement knot. For this, no more than 4 eyes are left. When forming a fruit arrow, 5-12 eyes should be left.
How to shelter grapes for the winter
Before covering the grapes before mild winters, the culture must be treated with iron or copper sulfate. In regions with warm winters, the plant may not be covered. However, all varieties should be protected from death if the temperature is -21 ° C and below.
Before sheltering, the vines are bent to the ground and pinned to it. From above, they are buried in moistened soil from the row spacing.
Note! You cannot use the soil from under the grapes, as the roots will freeze.
The best way to cover the vines is the air-dry method. A plastic burlap should be thrown over the bundles of shoots or wire arcs. You can use a dark film. Then the plant is buried in earth. Periodically, the growth will need to be ventilated, dried and cooled, for which the shelter is simply opened for a short time.
Shelter grapes for the winter
This method allows you to use:
- leaves;
- straw;
- sawdust.
However, a film is always laid on top, the edges of which are necessarily pressed.
On a note! In the south, the plant is buried in soil with a layer of 20-25 cm.
Video: how to prepare grapes for winter
Errors in preparing the plant for winter
Features of preparing grapes for wintering in Siberia
In the rather harsh Russian climate, preparing grapes for winter becomes very difficult.
To harvest a good harvest, the "breeder" of grapes must identify in advance for himself a list of necessary procedures, perform them correctly, while choosing the most suitable time for them. An error in timing threatens with damping out or freezing of grape bushes, and therefore their death.
Preparing grapes for the winter cold is an important and serious process. How easily grape bushes survive the winter depends on caring for them throughout the season. Weak, sickly grapes with poorly ripened wood will not survive the winter. Therefore, starting in early spring, he needs constant care and attention.
- Choose carefully the varieties that are suitable for your region;
- The bushes must be completely healthy;
- Thinning the vineyard regularly, removing damaged and excess branches;
- Remember that the more a bush yields, the longer its wood will ripen, so adjust the number of bunches;
- Periodically feed the grapes with ash and potassium - this accelerates the ripening of the wood;
- From the middle of summer, exclude fertilization with nitrogen, otherwise the energy of the plant is directed to the formation of green mass that is now unnecessary;
- Don't neglect the autumn coinage.
How to properly prepare a vineyard
Vine health
A strong and healthy vineyard will endure the winter frosts much more painlessly. This is due to the fact that the vine will not be weakened by various pathogenic organisms on it or in the soil in the place of shelter.
Therefore, before wintering the vineyard, it is necessary to thoroughly inspect and remove all shoots affected by harmful insects and diseases.
After the vine, carefully treat with special fungicides, they not only easily cope with pathogenic microflora, but also prevent their reappearance for a certain time. Good results are obtained by spraying it with a 3-5% solution of iron or copper sulfate.
Try to carry out processing immediately after pruning so that the healing liquid gets on each section of the vine.
Immediately before wintering, treat the vineyard with the same solution.
Strong vineyard
Strong, well-prepared shrubs can handle a drop in temperature more easily, so you should take care of its vitality. It is no secret that in order to maintain any life process, the vine spends a certain amount of nutritional reserves accumulated before wintering.
The lion's share of them is wasted during the winter period, when the plant is in shelter. Moreover, in the spring during the development period, it also needs energy, since the growth of new shoots occurs thanks to precisely these reserves.
This means that for a safe wintering and a safe spring awakening, the vineyard must be very strong. Therefore, throughout the season, he needs regular feeding, both organic and mineral.
Ripe vine
By winter, only a well-ripened vine should be present on each vine. It can be distinguished by its characteristic brown color, sufficient thickness and bark, it should remain warm enough even with the onset of the first cold weather.
Healthy vines ripen well and survive the winter cold, the thickness of which is 6-13 mm, with a core occupying less than 1/3 of the diameter of the stem. They contain a sufficient amount of nutrients.
Fresh wood that has not yet gained strength must be completely removed. In winter, she will die anyway, but until that moment she will consume nutrients and take them from the bush. As a result, in the spring, the bush may suffer from nutritional deficiencies.
Moreover, weak shoots can provoke the appearance of all kinds of diseases under cover. As a result, the entire plant may suffer.
The aging process is influenced by many factors. This is the load on the wood, and the intensity of its nutrition, and the correctness of sanitization.
The ripening of the vine can be significantly accelerated by the use of potash dressings. Wood ash and chlorine-free potassium sulphate are excellent, both regular watering and foliar spraying will be effective.
For one adult bush, you need 30 grams of potassium, dissolved in a bucket of water, or 1 liter of ash, infused for several days also in a bucket of ordinary water.
At the same time, from the second half of summer, completely abolish nitrogen fertilizers that provoke active plant growth and negatively affect the ripening of bunches and saturation of its vital energy.
Chasing
Good help can be given to the bushes in such a way as autumn chasing. It involves cutting off most of the top of the shoot, only 15 lower leaves remain on the bush, everything else is simply cut off. This procedure stops growth and directs nutrients to the bunches of berries, from where they are then spent on the ripening process of the vine.
Particular attention should be paid to the timing of the minting. Pruning is done at the moment when the growth of the shoots comes to naught, if you remove them earlier, even for several days, the opposite process can begin - the growth of stepchildren is activated. Determining the optimal time for minting is quite simple.
As you know, fresh branches grow curved, then their growth slows down and they straighten. Take a closer look at the bush, if half of its shoots are bent and half are straightened, then it is allowed to start pruning.
Chasing is not a necessary technique, especially if your vines have time to ripen without using it. In some regions, it is impossible to accurately determine when the vineyard stops growing, and this is fraught with errors.
Autumn pruning vines
In fact, the issue of pruning is rather controversial - it depends on the region of cultivation and weather conditions, variety, ripening and harvesting dates. But in general, there are general recommendations:
- Autumn pruning should not be carried out immediately after harvest - this can seriously weaken the bushes, which means leaving it for the winter without an impressive supply of nutrients. This can be explained by the fact that grapes spend too much energy to ripen the berries, and if you cut off the entire productive part immediately after harvesting, then he will not have the opportunity to stock up on food. If you give the vineyard time to recuperate and only then remove excess shoots, then he will go for the winter prepared and strong.
- It is best to do the pruning immediately after the foliage has fallen or when the first frost comes. This is when shrubs transfer nutrients to mature wood and roots.
Shelter of grape bushes
The very last, but not the least significant step in preparing the grapes for winter is the construction of the correct shelter.
First of all, you need to figure out when to cover the vineyard. It is absolutely necessary to do this not earlier than the frost sets in (5-6 degrees below zero). It is advisable to keep the grape bushes under cover as little as possible, too long stay in the shelter will not benefit the plant.
The success of wintering grapes depends more often on the quality of its hardening than on the shelter.
In fact, standard processes take place inside the plant - due to a decrease in temperature, the vine is hardened, the liquid inside it is concentrated in the intercellular space, the starch turns into sugar, respectively, the internal liquid becomes a syrup.
It is this syrup that does not allow the juices inside the cells to freeze, and, accordingly, damage the root system and vine. The conclusion suggests itself - hardening is the most important stage in preparing grapes for winter.
Too early shelter of the vineyard threatens to increase the temperature in its "winter home", which means damping of the eyes and the development of fungal diseases.
The optimal time to start building a shelter is considered to be the moment when the topsoil is slightly frozen. The vine is tied up and pinned to the ground in advance, preferably two or three after pruning. Conveniently, if the covering material is somewhere nearby, if necessary, quickly cover the vineyard.
Place dry organic material such as spruce branches, straw or foliage under the vines. Install wood shields above the vines so that there is a little free space around them.
Cover the shields from above with polyethylene, roofing felt, tarpaulin or any waterproof material. The shelter should be breathable, lightweight and warm. Insulate everything on top with a rag or a thin layer of earth.
It is advisable to leave open the edge of the shelter on the south side before the onset of stable cold weather. This will allow the grapes to be aired and not dry out. In the spring, as soon as the air temperature rises above zero, the covering material is removed, and the vines are tied to the trellis.
Grapes should be sent for wintering hardened, cleaned, disinfected, trimmed, well “fed” and securely covered. Only in this case, your grapes will not only successfully overwinter, but will also delight you with an excellent harvest.
Annual care of grapes in the fall involves a number of operations, which boil down to pruning, thinning the foliage and other activities that allow not only to correctly form, but also to increase the yield of the shrub. Grapes are a popular culture, but rather capricious, the cultivation of which, even in the middle lane, not every gardener is engaged in. Separately, it is worth noting the fact that grapes in Bashkiria are well cultivated, despite the fact that this is a region of risky farming. The main thing is knowledge and understanding of what constitutes proper grape care.
Annual care of grapes in autumn involves a number of operations.
To achieve good yield results in a difficult climate, you need to try very hard. Not every gardener has the opportunity to experiment with varieties, and with the right campaign, this is not necessary. It is worth noting that grapes in Bashkiria are characterized by large and aromatic bunches. First of all, you will need to purchase a zoned seedling. In this case, it must be obtained for cultivation in the climatic zone of Bashkiria. Proper planting and caring for grapes increases the likelihood that the plant will take root.
To achieve good yield results in a difficult climate, you need to try very hard There are many varieties offered, and one of the most popular is Alexander. The variety belongs to the early dining rooms, a distinctive feature of which is resistance to frost. During the ripening period, the fruits acquire a deep pink hue and excellent aroma and taste. The average weight of a bunch is about 150 g. Several more zoned varieties are endowed with similar characteristics. Of these, Bashkirsky, Yubileiny, Druzhba, May-3 should be highlighted. If we consider such hybrid varieties as P-65 or P-81, then they have a bunch weight of about 500 g, and such indicators cannot but please gardeners who cultivate grapes in Bashkiria.
Planting grapes
Before planting a seedling, an incision is made on it, checking for damage and vitality. A healthy stalk has a greenish color, while the bark on the entire vine should not change in color. If you press on the kidney, it will fall off, and when cutting, the rudimentary leaves should be visible. If the vine has a pale color and moisture is not observed in it, then such planting material is not suitable.
For the future vineyard, it is necessary to choose a sunny place where the shrub will be protected from the winds. At the site, it is determined at what depth the groundwater lies. If the water is too close, it will negatively affect the growth and development of the plant. When several bushes are planned to be planted, planting should be carried out in one row from north to south, leaving gaps of 2 m between plants, 1 m between rows.
Particular attention should be paid to the preparation of the landing pit. The hole is similar in diameter to a hole for a fruit tree, and this factor is especially important in areas with poor soil. After preparing the pit, about 2-3 buckets are filled with humus at the bottom. If the soil is predominantly clay, then 2 buckets of rubble are poured onto the bottom of the hole, which will act as drainage and ensure the air permeability of the soil. A layer of wood ash 400 g and phosphorus fertilizers 200 g are added as nutrients. After that, all components are well mixed with a shovel with the soil in the pit.
Proper watering
Grapes, in comparison with other horticultural crops, do well in drought conditions, which is explained by the characteristics of the root system, which is highly branched and conducts water well. It is important to remember that the shrub is responsive to watering. There are several ways how to properly care for grapes, while attention should be paid to the season. In the autumn period, the soil is moistened through special channels, which are organized for drainage and covered with earth. With dry soil, cold air in winter more easily penetrates to the roots, exposing them to frostbite and subsequent death.
After watering, a sufficient amount of moisture will be concentrated in the soil for further development in subsequent periods. With abundant watering, the soil will get wet by 40 cm, after which the moisture will gradually drop lower, and in summer it will reach a depth of 1.5 m. In this case, even with severe drought, the shrub will receive water. Leaving in the spring implies the obligatory watering of the grapes if the winter was with little snow. They perform the event before the kidneys begin to wake up.
For the future vineyard, it is necessary to choose a sunny place where the shrub will be protected from the winds If it is necessary to retard the development of the plant, for example, to protect against possible frosts, watering is done with cold water.
For autumn planting, grapes are watered directly into the pit, pouring 2 buckets of water. Having placed the seedling in the hole, sprinkle it halfway with soil and again pour 2 buckets of water. To warm up the soil in spring, you can use hot water, and after moistening, pour it with warm water. In the first year of life, a bush of young grapes should form a good root system. At first, the roots begin to grow near the planting pit, which indicates the need to irrigate the first year of growth into the canal, for the formation of which 30 cm recede from the plant, deepening by 20 cm.The need for this watering is determined by examining the shrub and its leaves and is performed with warm water. The next periods of growth and development are more favorable for irrigation. Happens:
- awakening of the kidneys;
- the end of flowering;
- development and ripening of berries.
Spring grape care has some peculiarities. If the grapes are watered before flowering or during it, this will dramatically affect the loss of peduncles. It is also not worth watering before harvesting, as this will lead to incomplete ripening of the berries and their cracking.
Autumn care of grapes
In the autumn, grape care consists of such activities as feeding, pruning, watering, preventive procedures against diseases and pests, as well as protecting shrubs in the winter. When pruning, the goals are pursued not only to rejuvenate the bush, but also to increase productivity. The berries ripen faster, which is associated with a greater intensity of sap flow in young shoots than in old ones. There are other positive aspects in pruning: frost resistance increases, preventive measures against diseases and pests are facilitated, while diseased and damaged shoots are removed.
Depending on the region, grape pruning in the first year may also be carried out in September. The procedure is started after the plant is prepared for winter. Pruning is performed a few weeks after the foliage has fallen. Previously, it should not be done, since photosynthesis continues in the shoots, which can lead to a lack of nutrients for a successful wintering of the shrub and obtaining a future harvest.
Depending on the region, grape pruning in the first year can also be carried out in September Caring for grapes in the fall, pruning for the winter which occurs with the first frost, can damage young shoots. This is due to the fact that at subzero temperatures the vine becomes brittle and fragile. During pruning, it is necessary to remove damaged and diseased stems, which, after the event, are collected in one heap and burned, this rule will exclude the spread of infection through the vineyard.
Fertilizing and feeding grapes (video)
How to shape the grapes?
Formation of grapes in the first year consists of a series of sequential steps. Extra shoots are removed on the bush, while it is important not to overdo it: in addition to good shoots, they also leave branches that are spare. Along the row in which the grapes are planted, a trellis is organized, which is 2 rows of wire that serve as a fastener for the vine: the lower row is located at a height of 30 cm from the ground, the upper one at 60 cm.When pruning, you must adhere to the following rules:
- Since the formation has not yet been completed, the two lower buds on the vine do not need to be touched.
- With the arrival of September on last year's vine, remove all young side branches that have grown to the top row of the wire.
- The young vine, which has reached the bottom wire, is not removed, but only shortened by 1/4.
- In October, a fruit link is formed, consisting of a replacement knot and a fruit branch.
- All shoots that have reached a length of 20 cm are removed in mid-September, and branches over 30 cm are shortened by 10%.
- In young shoots (first years), it is necessary to remove excess shoots, leaving only those that are located at right angles. To get a powerful bush, there should be about 7 such sleeves.
- Finally, the apex is removed.
All cut sites are treated with garden varnish, which will protect against the penetration of pathogens.
How to care for grapes in spring? The procedure during this period is similar to the autumn one. After winter, the bushes are opened, pruned and fed, which are standard steps that have a direct impact on crop yields. In order to increase the yield of the shrub, catarovka is performed in the summer, which is the cutting of roots located close to the soil surface (20-25 cm). When caring for young grapes in summer, one must not forget that the soil near the trunk is loosened several times during the growing season. Weeds are removed in time, irrigation is carried out several times a week.
Shelter grapes for the winter
One of the most common materials for sheltering vines for the winter is coniferous spruce branches, which is due to a weak susceptibility to frost. However, not every gardener has a coniferous forest nearby, so you can use a different covering material, which is used to wrap bushes or pin the vine to the ground. This material can be agrofibre or film. It is worth considering that agrofibre in regions with prolonged frosts is not suitable as the main covering material. It is only used in combination with other materials.
There are varieties that are characterized by good winter hardiness, and therefore, maintenance of the vineyard in the fall is not required. However, it is necessary to take into account the climatic features of the growing region. To increase winter hardiness, the plant is hardened during the dormant period. The initial stage lasts for 2 weeks at a temperature of +10 ... 0˚С. During this period, the starch is broken down into sugars, which give the plant energy, making it easier to tolerate frost. The second stage of hardening also lasts for 2 weeks at a temperature of -1 ... -15˚С.
How to protect grapes from frost?
One of the most reliable ways to cover a vineyard for the winter is to bury it in the ground and then cover it with a layer of soil and snow. You should adhere to this rule: the soil is poured 35 cm high. If there are unripe shoots on the bushes, then the shelter in this way will allow them to be preserved until spring. Additional measures include spraying the bush with slaked lime, after which the vine is dried and wrapped in a covering material, which will protect it from decay. Then the bush is bent to the ground, laid in a prepared trench, fixed and sprinkled with earth. To avoid flooding the trench, a layer of roofing material is laid on top.
Some experienced gardeners living in cold climates use a “dry” winter shelter for the vineyard. In this case, the vine is not buried, which prevents it from rotting, but it is still hardened. Fruit branches and sleeves are collected in a bunch, laid and fixed at the bottom of the trench, placing under the vine, for example, roofing material. As a shelter, wooden boards 30 mm thick are used, on top of which roofing material or polyethylene is laid, which will provide protection from melt water. Thus, the proper wintering of the grapes takes place.
The grapes are opened after winter as the weather is stable. Young shoots are separated from each other and attached to the trellis. Caring for grapes in early spring is reduced to water-charging irrigation. After the procedures carried out, it remains only to wait for the buds to bloom, the development of a powerful shrub and large fragrant bunches.
Attention, only TODAY!
Grapes grow in almost every summer cottage: some for the sake of delicious berries, someone makes wine or just rests in the shade under the vine during the summer heat. However, the agricultural technique of growing this plant is not so simple and requires tangible efforts from the gardener. If you want to harvest a good grape harvest, you need to know how to prepare your grapes for winter. This is necessary so that the grapes do not freeze out and bear fruit well for the next season.
Autumn processing, preparation for pruning
Preparing grapes for winter, as one of the main methods of care, includes creating conditions conducive to the formation of new buds for the coming season. To ensure all these conditions, you must do the following:
How grapes overwinter largely depends on how they were cared for throughout the previous winter season. It is necessary to start taking care that the vine endures wintering well from the very spring, because an immature plant affected by diseases, bacteria, pests or mechanically is hardly capable of this.
During the season, conduct regular inspection of the vines, finding infected areas, immediately treat them with fungicides, and remove the affected part of the branch. Also, do not forget to feed the grapes with complex mineral and organic fertilizers. Do not forget about foliar dressing, that is, spraying.
Immediately after you harvest the grapes, you need to start processing the grapes. Spray the vine with special products for various infections and pests. Be sure to check before spraying so that there are no bunches or individual berries left, and the grape branches themselves are not damaged.
If you find any damage or foci of infection with diseases, immediately remove this part of the vine. Otherwise, the infection will spread, and the grapes will be sick next season.
It is necessary to apply fertilizers and water the soil no earlier than October, since until that time it remains sufficiently moist.
Further, around the middle of October, you should water the grapes abundantly, while making grooves around the rhizome so that the water lingers in them and does not spread over the surface. This will allow moisture to reach directly to the root. After watering, you must constantly monitor the soil so that it does not tamp. To do this, the soil must be loosened regularly, which will allow moisture to remain in it longer.
After that, it is worth moving on to feeding the grapes with organic fertilizers mixed with wood ash. But do not get carried away, just mulching the soil with a good layer of peat or rotted manure is enough.
How to prune grapes for the winter
The preservation of the vine in winter depends on the maturation of the wood. The most suitable vines have a diameter of 6 to 13 millimeters. You also need to pay attention to the fact that its core occupies no more than a third of the thickness of the branch. These vines store as much nutrients as the grapes need to survive the winter successfully.
For better maturation of wood, the following rules must be observed:
Autumn minting is carried out at a time when the growth of grapes is slowing down. In order to correctly determine the right moment, it is enough to carefully look at the tops. Since straightened tops indicate suspended growth processes, curved ones - in a phase of active growth. When both those and those shoots are on the top, it means that it's time to start minting. It should be produced after the fifteenth leaf on the vine.
You need to start pruning grapes at the end of October. It is necessary not only to wait until the branches finish bearing fruit, and then give them some time to stock up on nutrients in order to get a little stronger. Ideally, when the leaves fall off by themselves, but if this did not happen before the specified time, the foliage must be cut off.
The purpose of the autumn pruning of grapes is to free the plant from the vines that have borne fruit, from diseased, damaged, too old branches. They are cut off, leaving the fruit arrow with a replacement knot, that is, the fruit link.
After that, the dew roots are removed, that is, the root part that grows near the trunk practically on the surface of the earth from the base of the trunk. This process is called katarovka, it is necessary so that the rhizome gets stronger and nutrients are not wasted on the growth of dew.
Catarovka is produced as follows:
- dig a ditch about 20 centimeters deep around the base of the trunk;
- small roots are cut to the same level as the main root;
- sections must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate;
- spud and water the bush.
Winter pruning of grapes should be done regularly, depending on the size of the vine, as early as 2-3 years after planting, thereby forming a bush.
But if this has not been done before or rarely and irregularly, and the bush is already quite mature, pruning will take more time and effort. If the bush consists of several perennial vines, it is necessary to form sleeves consisting of fruit links.
After the leaves fall off, we cut off the fertile, diseased, old, damaged sleeves, after which we form the fruit link. To do this, you need to inspect each bush from the bottom up and select two shoots. On the lower shoot, leave two or three eyes (buds), this will be the replacement knot.
The next strong shoot is a fruit arrow; leave more eyes on it. That is, it is necessary to choose the healthiest branches, and do it with a margin, given the unstable weather. Excess vines can be removed during spring pruning.
After you cut the grapes, the cuts need to be treated with copper sulfate. This will prevent harmful organisms and bacteria from penetrating through the cut. After that, you should proceed to the next stage of preparing grapes for the winter - shelter.
Covering grapes after pruning
Immediately after you have pruned the grapes, they must be tied and bent to the ground. To do this, form vine shoots that are easy to put on the ground, they should be quite flexible. This should be done before the onset of stable frosts, but after the vine has endured the first frost uncovered. Thus, the grapes will harden and will be more resistant to subsequent drops and fluctuations in temperature.
Bend the grapes to the ground, press them down with wooden trellises, some gardeners put bricks. This will prevent the vine from bending backwards and rising off the ground. You can cover it with a regular film, but in this way you risk creating a greenhouse effect inside, due to which mold can develop inside and decay processes begin. Shelters made from dry leaves and sawdust will create a similar effect.
Under the bottom of the vine, you should first put dry material, for example, cut off parts of branches, so that the grapes do not lie directly on the damp ground. On top of the vine, you can put wooden shields, and then cover them with waterproof material, for example, tarpaulin or roofing felt.
You can use a special covering material, agrofibre. Put something moderately heavy on top of the covered grapes, do the same around the edges, for example, create boards from boards. This will prevent the wind from ripping off the covering material.
Not every grape variety needs to be sheltered for the winter, but only those that do not tolerate low temperatures. If your region has rather cold winters, then it is better to play it safe and start preparing the grapes for winter.
Do not prune the grapes ahead of time, this can lead to the fact that the vine and the root system of the grapes do not receive the right amount of nutrients. But you should not wait for regular frosts either, since they will make the branches fragile, and when pruning, they are likely to be damaged.
Thus, you understand that preparing grapes for winter is the most important stage of its cultivation, since the speed of development of the vine, the number of berries and their taste depend on this.