Repair is in any case a very troublesome event. And if it is assumed that a complete dismantling of the wall and floor cladding will be performed, the estimated amount of work can scare even an experienced repairman, not to mention the home craftsman. Indeed, in this case, it will take more than one day of intensive work just to get rid of old materials.
Therefore, novice builders are trying to find out whether it is possible to lay tiles on tiles and thereby save their time and energy. Let's try to figure it out together.
But, nevertheless, in some cases, it is still better to keep the old floor or wall covering and make the basis for the new one. Why? We will try to justify.
Destruction of the old base during dismantling
Dismantling the old tile will most likely destroy the base on which it is fixed. So, when removing the floor tiles, fragments of the screed will surely break off, the leveling plywood flooring will also become unusable, and when working with a wall covering laid on drywall, the latter will most likely be damaged.
Thus, in addition to performing work on dismantling and laying new tiles, you will have to re-equip the base, which is very laborious, costly and will take a lot of time to harden the material.
Dirty and costly preparatory work
With all diligence, the dismantling of the old cladding cannot be carried out cleanly. The dust will be very strong, since you will have to work with a hammer drill. The amount of construction waste that will need to be removed is just as large. In addition, the bathroom will have to be completely freed from furniture and plumbing fixtures.
Experienced craftsmen note that neighboring rooms can also be affected by dust. Equipment and furniture in them must be covered with polyethylene, if possible, it is worth protecting the decoration of the room, otherwise it can be seriously damaged.
Dismantling old tiles is a very laborious undertaking. In the process of its implementation, the old base on which the cladding lies will be necessarily damaged and will have to be restored.
"Contraindications" to the preservation of the old coating
As it has already become clear, many additional problems arise during dismantling. To minimize them, it is worth trying to keep the old cladding. However, this can not always be done. There are several cases when leaving the tiles is strongly discouraged:
- After finishing, the expected floor level will be higher than in the rest of the rooms. The bathroom belongs to rooms where the risk of leaks is especially high, therefore, it is recommended to lower the floor level in the bathroom by 3-5 cm. This is done so that in the event of an accident water cannot flow out of the room. It is not recommended to break this rule.
- Poor quality materials of the old cladding. This applies to both the glue and the tile itself. A cladding covered with a network of small cracks will not be a good base for a new coating. Fungus, indelible grease and dirt have already appeared in the cracks. Bad glue will not be able to securely hold the tile, it will chip off and loosen the base of the new cladding.
- The room is small. It should be borne in mind that laying tiles on top of the old coating will reduce an already small room.
- Utilities are laid under the tiled floor, and there are no inspection hatches. If you put a new cladding on top of such a base, in the event of an accident, you will have to dismantle two layers of tiles, which is much more costly and laborious.
- Uneven cladding or a pronounced slope that you want to align. When laying tiles, height differences of less than 4 mm are allowed for every 2 m of the surface. If the difference is greater, you will have to dismantle the old coating.
SNiPs state that the base for the tiled coating must be monolithic, rough and porous. All this does not correspond to the characteristics of the ceramic cladding, which is composed of separate, small-sized elements, and, in addition, is characterized by high smoothness.
Thus, it seems that it is categorically impossible to lay new tiles on the old ones. This is not entirely true. Consider the solidity of the coverage. Properly laid on good glue, high-quality tiles form a solid monolithic base, which is quite suitable for laying another layer of cladding.
With the porosity of the material, everything is somewhat more complicated. The most significant advantage of building ceramics is its high density, which is combined with a minimum number of moisture-absorbing pores. The fewer pores on the surface of the tile, the better it is.
In any case, the absorbent ratio of the liner is in the order of 0.5%. This is negligible for the glue to penetrate into the tile, fix in it and hold the new ceramic element on itself. That is why, before starting work on the installation of a new tile, it is necessary to remove the glaze from the old one in order to open the pores of the ceramics and at the same time increase its roughness.
There are three different ways to solve the problem:
- Cleaning old tiles with a grinder with a special attachment. As a result, the top layer of glaze is removed and the pores of the material are opened.
- Forming notches on the surface of the tiles. It is carried out using a grinder with an abrasive disc. This allows cross-notches to be applied to the ceramics to improve the adhesion of the substrate.
- Application of a special primer that improves the adhesion of the material. It can be any composition enriched with acicular quartz or ordinary sand. Such solutions are produced by all manufacturers of building mixtures.
Experts note that the best result can be achieved when all three methods described above are used in combination. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to do just that.
The surface of ceramic tiles is very smooth and practically free of pores. It is impossible to glue the cladding to such a base, therefore it must be prepared in a special way.
Installation procedure
The procedure is performed in several stages.
Stage # 1: Reinforce the old coating
First of all, we need to understand how securely the old cladding holds. To do this, we take a special hammer with a copper heel, if it is not there, a small hammer made of steel will do, and gently tap the entire tile covering with it. We carry out the operation very carefully, without missing a single element.
We tap the center of the part and the corners. The cavities under the cladding will make themselves felt with a resounding echo that will be heard from under the ceramics. It should be understood that the presence of such cavities indicates that a new coating laid on such a base will collapse.
Defective elements are immediately dismantled using a hammer and chisel. Fill the resulting cavities with cement mortar and wait for it to solidify completely. The curing time of the composition depends on the thickness of its layer. For example, a centimeter layer will completely harden in 7 days. We carefully clean the crumbling seams with a chisel and fill them with tile glue or cement mortar. We are also waiting for drying.
If, as a result of tapping the tiles, it turns out that it does not adhere well to the base, the defective cladding must be removed. We use a chisel and a hammer for this.
Stage # 2: Preparing the ceramic surface for laying
We start by stripping the tiles. To do this, we take a grinder, put a grinding wheel with medium grain on it, and get to work. We carefully process the entire ceramic surface. We remove the glaze from the tile, after which we make notches on the tile base, which will improve the adhesion of the material.
Now we need to prepare the surface for priming. For this, wash it thoroughly. First with clean water, rinsing off the dust, then use a soapy solution. It will help remove grease and dirt.
If there are old stains or poorly washed fat on the base, add soda to the water. Thoroughly rinse the ceramic surface, rinsing it several times with clean water. After the ceramics have dried, we proceed to priming. We try to apply the solution evenly, carefully distribute it with a brush or roller.
We strictly follow the requirements of the instructions, apply the amount of the composition indicated in it. In order not to stain the structures associated with the floor, we cover them with polyethylene before work. We are waiting for the primer to dry. This will take 3 or 4 hours.
To prepare the old tile coating, special solutions are used, which include needle quartz or ordinary sand. They are produced packaged in hermetically sealed containers.
Stage # 3: Marking the surface and setting stops
Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to mark and install stops on which the first row of cladding will rest. It is best to draw a diagram that will indicate all the design features of the room. On it we perform an approximate layout of the elements. It is desirable that the seams of the upper parts lie on solid tiles. To do this, you need to shift the upper joints relative to the lower ones.
In the case of laying tiles on a wall, at the bottom of the wall, fix the stop for the first row of tiles. This can be a piece of wood or a plastic corner. We take a plumb line and draw a line perpendicular to the stop on the base. It is necessary to control the verticality of the laying. If it is planned to install tiles of different colors, you can mark the places where parts of a different tone are glued.
We start the installation of floor tiles from the far corner of the room. We draw a line of the first row and mark the location of elements that differ from others in color or texture that will form the picture. We make sure that at the entrance to the room the whole part must be laid without trimming.
When carrying out calculations, do not forget that it is necessary to take into account not only the size of the tiles, but also the size of the gap between the elements.
It is easier to lay tiles on the wall if a special stop is installed under the first row, on which the first row of cladding will rest. Otherwise, the elements will slide down and it will be much more difficult to achieve an even masonry.
Stage # 4: Laying the whole tile
The hardest part is to lay out the first row. We start by applying the solution. To do this, we use a special notched trowel, the height of the teeth of which is equal to the thickness of the adhesive layer.
We lean the prepared tile against the support, then carefully turn it over and put it on the mortar. It is not necessary to press down strongly on the part. It is better to slightly rotate the element around the axis with light movements. In this way, it will be possible to achieve maximum adhesion. When laying tiles, you need to remember that it will be quite difficult to tear it off the surface.
You can only slightly move the part to the side, so we choose the place for laying as accurately as possible. Be sure to check the accuracy of the installation using the building level. If you need to deepen the tile a little, we do it with a rubber mallet.
In the corners of the part, we install plastic crosses that will help maintain the exact dimensions of the gaps. Another important point: the gaps should be as clean as possible. Do not press down the parts too much, so that the solution protrudes along the edges.
Place the tiles on a layer of mortar applied to the base with a notched trowel. We lay the part in a light circular motion so that the adhesion to the glue is the best
After gaining a little experience, you can try to apply the solution under several tiles at a time. Then, with quick but precise movements, we put the parts in place, turning them slightly at the same time. We distribute crosses into the gaps, slightly press down the cladding with a level, while checking the correctness of its installation.
Having laid the first row, take a break to wait until the glue is completely dry. This will make it easier to lay the rest of the tiles. An important point: all excess mortar in places intended for the installation of cut tiles must be removed immediately. Otherwise, they will dry out, and before continuing to work, you will have to chip off the hardened glue, which will certainly affect the strength of the connection of the laid parts. We do the same before a break in work, we remove the solution along the edge of the finished row.
Stage # 5: Installation of cut tiles
The remaining areas of the base must be filled with tile fragments. They must be cut from solid parts. We do this with a glass or tile cutter. We mark the part, not forgetting about the size of the gaps.
We form an even edge of the element using a special machine with a diamond wheel or tile cutter for this. Place the prepared fragment in the desired place in the same way as a whole tile.
Before trimming, the tiles must be accurately marked, taking into account the dimensions of the cladding and the size of the gaps
Stage # 6: Grout or jointing
The final stage, which consists in filling the tile joints with a special solution. Before starting work, you should wait until the glue on which the lining was laid is completely dry. After that, carefully remove all the crosses from the gaps between the tiles. Now we clean the seams and the surface of the parts from dust and debris. It is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose.
If we use an epoxy or silicone solution, we glue the edges of the tiles with masking tape, which will prevent the mixture from getting on the tiles, since it is very difficult to remove it from there after drying.
At the end of the tile laying, the tile joints are filled with grout. A soft rubber spatula is used for work
The grout can be epoxy, silicone or cement based. They are practically similar in their characteristics, differing in the way they are prepared and used. Epoxy and silicone formulations are sold ready-to-use, packaged in an airtight container.
The cement mortar must be prepared independently by diluting the dry mixture with water. We take a rubber trowel and apply a small amount of the prepared compound to the seam. Slightly press it deep into the joint. Then we remove the excess composition. To do this, install a spatula across the seam and run it over it with slight pressure. The seam is slightly deepened and leveled. Having filled in all the inter-tile joints in this way, we leave them to dry completely.
We remove the remains of grout and masking tape. We clean and wash the coating.
Video instructions from the masters
Thus, we can conclude that, despite the recommendations of SNiPs, it is quite possible to lay tiles on top of old tiles with high quality. However, this is not as easy as it might seem. It is very important to correctly assess the condition of the old coating and determine whether it can become the basis for laying new tiles. In addition, it is extremely important to competently carry out the preparatory work. Only in this case, you can count on a good result.
In the process of doing repair work with your own hands, you have to deal with many difficult questions, the correct answers to which will determine the quality and service life of the new finish. One of these questions is - can you put tiles on tiles? Consider whether it is possible to use the old tile as a basis for a new coating, or is it still better to dismantle it to avoid possible problems.
Features of the preparation of various types of surfaces. How to rub seams. Criteria for choosing tiles and flooring patterns.
How to remove old grout from tile joints
Quite often, one has to deal with a situation where the condition of the old tile is quite satisfactory, but in order to use it as a basis for a new coating, it is necessary to replace the grout for the joints. It is quite possible to carry out this procedure, however, it requires attention and time. Let's take a look at how to remove grout from tile joints correctly.
In order to remove the old grout, there is a special tool called the "joint expander". It can be used to remove grout mechanically. By itself, it is a blade with a comfortable handle, but as an alternative, you can use a regular knife.
With the blade of a knife or an opener, you need to walk from both sides at an angle and straight. When doing this, be careful not to chip off the edges of the tiles. It is worth noting that it will not be possible to do this "manually" quickly, so you can use a drill with a thin drill or an electric chisel.
Important! If, in the process of removing the old grout, the tile also began to crumble, it is better to abandon the idea of laying another layer on top, even if there is a new grout.
How to remove old grout from tile joints if it is silicone
Silicone grout also requires dismantling and replacement, especially if the room has not been provided with high-quality ventilation. Very often you have to deal with the fact that the seams are affected by mold, which is almost impossible to remove. Therefore, before laying new tiles on top of old tiles, you need to take care of the hygiene of the joints.
Removal of silicone sealant is carried out using a sharp knife or a special scraper. After that, additional cleaning is carried out with a vacuum cleaner.
Helpful advice! There are special tools available to remove silicone faster and with less effort. Such compositions are applied using an assembly gun, after which it is necessary to wait at least 24 hours. Then the seams are wiped with a rag or paper.
Is it possible to lay tiles on tiles on the floor: features of the work
The floor covering, in contrast to the wall covering, is not subject to the influence of the force of gravity. Therefore, in a sense, styling is easier. But in this case, another difficulty arises - the new coating will regularly be subjected to serious stress.
Before gluing the tiles to the floor, you need to check every element of the bottom layer at least thoroughly. To do this, you can use the same hammer for tapping, but you can try another approach: an object with a flat base (a box is good), you need to smoothly drag it along the surface, carefully observing so that not a single tile falls through even a few millimeters. It can be difficult to do this in a small bathroom or toilet, but for larger rooms it is a very effective way.
In general, all the recommendations that are provided in the previous section are also relevant in the case of working with the floor. It is only advisable to give preference to mineral compositions. Thus, the surface will be provided with greater elasticity, which will allow it to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes.
Helpful advice! Before laying the floor tiles on top of the old ceramic coating, you do not need to carry out as intensive preparatory work as in the case of the wall surface. But it is still worth moistening the base before starting to apply the glue, as this will positively affect the adhesion.
Is it possible to make a self-leveling floor on an old tile
As a basis for a new coating, you can also use a self-leveling floor, the installation of which is carried out directly on the surface of the old tile. As in all previous cases, a mandatory procedure is a thorough check of the quality of the attachment of the lower layer. All loose elements must be dismantled without fail.
It is worth paying attention to the fact that in cases when it comes to working with a glossy surface, the top layer of the coating is removed in order to ensure the necessary level of adhesion between the mortar and the tile. Filling and further work are carried out according to the standard algorithm.
Helpful advice! For laying a new layer of tiles, a thick layer of self-leveling floor is not required. Its thickness should not exceed 5 mm. The main thing is to evenly distribute the composition over the entire surface.
Taking into account the opinion of experts, we can say that it is possible to make a self-leveling floor over a tile only in extreme cases. In this case, the area of the room should be small, and the requirements for the operational characteristics of the surface are minimal.
Is it possible to lay tiles on tiles outdoors
A very interesting question that may arise is whether it is possible to lay a new layer of paving slabs on top of the old one. Of course, such a procedure is often unjustified, but nevertheless, in some cases, this technology is resorted to in the process of arranging garden paths, terraces and summer grounds.
As in the case of the tiles laid on the old flooring inside the house, the main criterion is the quality of the fastening of the lower layer. You can check using a pry bar or a sturdy knife. With the help of such tools, you need to try to delete one of the elements.
Important! If it was possible to displace the tile with a knife, but this required considerable physical effort, then such a coating can be used as a base. If the tile is removed easily, in the future this may cause deformation of the top layer.
On top of the old layer of tiles, a new pillow is poured, which should consist of three layers - loose soil, gravel, sand. In this case, the compaction of each layer must be carried out separately. On top, according to standard technology, a new layer of paving slabs is laid.
Thus, the answer to the question whether it is possible to lay tiles on tiles on the bathroom floor or even on the walls is rather in the affirmative. Of course, in the process of work, you will have to follow many rules and recommendations, and the end result can almost always turn out to be unpredictable, but in principle, it is quite possible to do this.
Decorative ceramic tiles are perhaps the most popular finishing material for decorating floors in the bathroom, hallway, corridor and kitchen.
This is due to its practicality, hygiene and enviable durability.
Laying tiles is not an easy job, and requires certain knowledge and skill, and in order for everything to work out as accurately and aesthetically as possible, at least a little experience is needed.
It often happens that the landlord would like to replace the old floor tiles with a new one, but he is simply scared to take on this occupation. Dust and debris, laborious dismantling work - it all stops. In this case, the question arises about the possibility of laying tiles on an old one, laid long ago.
The answer is unambiguous - the technology of laying new modern tiles on old tiles exists and is actively used during repairs.
But before deciding to implement this idea, you need to carefully consider the advantages and disadvantages of this method, calculate the real possibilities in application to the specific conditions of your own apartment.
If the old tile flooring was once laid out conscientiously, then it in itself is a good solid foundation for a new one.
There will be no need to carry out very time-consuming, costly, dirty and noisy work to dismantle the old coating.
In addition, the removal of the old tile will certainly entail large-scale work on the repair of the base, the installation of new waterproofing, leveling the level with a cement screed, etc.
In a number of cases, laying tiles on an old tiled base is also most expedient from the point of view of the impossibility of removing it due to passing water supply or sewer communications, and overhauled plumbing equipment.
However, it should be remembered that such a technology is still not always applicable:
If the old coating is badly loosened, the cement-glue mixture crumbles under it, then it will be necessary to carry out a complete dismantling.
Laying new tiles on tiles on the floor on top of a flimsy base is simply doomed to failure - such a floor will not last long.
In multi-storey buildings of an old building, the level of the floor tiled with metlakh tiles in the bathroom or in the bathroom can be quite different from the horizontal.
Thus, in order to give the room neatness and geometric correctness, it will be necessary to add a screed, and for this it is necessary to dismantle the old tiles.
Another "pitfall". The second layer of tiles will inevitably raise the level of the floor.
But in the bathroom or in the toilet, it must be lower than in the corridor, and additionally protected by a 1.5-2 cm sill - to avoid the likelihood of accidental flooding of residential premises.
Careful measurements should be made before taking on such work.
The first is a thorough revision of the floor!
If, nevertheless, it is decided to lay the decorative tiles on the old tiled floor, then the most important condition for the success of the work will be a thorough preparation of the base.
First of all, you need to literally climb the entire old floor on your knees and inspect each tile.
If any of them "play", have significant cracks, creak when pressed, they must be removed.
Just visually assessing the condition of the old coating will not work - you need to tap the entire tile with a hammer.
If a ringing sound is heard, this indicates that the cladding is peeling, which means that it will not serve as a reliable basis. You will also have to remove these fragments, clean the freed surface, raise and level to the general level using a sand-cement mortar.
It is clear that this is done only if these are single tiles. When such a defect becomes widespread, there is no need to doubt - you need to remove all the old tiles completely.
How to prepare the surface for tiling
The main enemies when laying a new tile covering on an old one are the glazed surface, which significantly reduces the adhesion characteristics of adhesive mixtures, and commonplace old dirt, which also prevents the tile from adhering to the base.
In order to increase the strength of the laid coating, it is advised to make notches on the old tile with a glossy slippery coating, drill holes, and even better - carefully process it with a diamond "grinder" disc, right down to the ceramic base. After that, the surface must be vacuumed in the most thorough way.
Particular attention is paid to cleaning the old coating from dirt. During the time that it was on the floor, an almost invisible oily coating has necessarily formed on it, which can affect the adhesive composition not in the best way.
Degreasing is carried out in different ways - someone uses organic solvents, gasoline, acetone. Those who do not want to breathe chemistry can be advised to thoroughly rinse the floor several times with warm water with the addition of caustic soda.
One should not forget about the state of the tile joints. This is a traditional accumulation of dirt and grease and must be cleaned.
If the old grout begins to crumble, it should be removed to the maximum possible depth, and after washing, cover it with tile glue or cement mortar to the level of the coating.
There is an opinion that on condition of priming the old tile covering with "Betonokontactom", it is possible to do without first roughing it.
However, the ideal option would still be to do both - this will serve as a guarantee of success.
In addition to Benonokontakt, the primers used in this case are called Ivsil Basis-Beton, Plitonit-Grunt-Superkontakt, Ceresit CN94.
All further work can be continued only after the primer layer has completely dried. You should get a grainy surface, similar in texture to sandpaper.
Some masters, in addition, practice applying a thin layer of tile glue - about 2 mm, and after it hardens, they start laying the tiles.
Will any glue work?
Laying tiles on top of the old tile covering by its technology differs little from the usual one, although there are still some nuances:
- The height of the comb on the spatula should be about 10-15 mm.
- When laying out the starting row, it is better to place the new ceramic tiles so that the seams do not coincide with the old ones.
But is any glue suitable for such work?
Is it worth listening to those who argue that after processing with Betonokontom, the brand of glue is of no fundamental importance?
Probably, it is still worth treating the issue of choosing glue very responsibly, especially since it will mainly be about laying tiles in a room with high humidity.
What do experienced craftsmen advise?
Ivsil Profit glue possesses good characteristics, which will make it possible to arrange a reliable and durable coating.
True, it is designed more for porcelain stoneware, but in the case of laying on top of old tiles, it is an excellent option.
Ceresit CM17 has high adhesion, even to a smooth lower tiled layer. Its purpose is precisely complex surfaces, and the new coating will turn out to be reliable and durable.
The adhesive composition "Vetonit Renovation" has earned a lot of good reviews. About him, even some finishers claim that it may not be necessary to roughen the old tile - such is the plasticity and adhesion of the adhesive composition.
Of course, such adhesive mixtures, intended for particularly durable coatings and difficult surfaces, are more expensive than usual. However, the savings in this matter can be disastrous, and it is better to play it safe by purchasing really reliable material.
So, putting a new tile on an old ceramic coating is a perfectly acceptable option, if you strictly follow all these rules.
Sometimes the choice of this technology is the only correct decision, both in terms of efficiency and the timing of repair work. And if the question arose before you whether such a floor finish is permissible, feel free to get down to business - everything should work out.
Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing premises with special operating conditions. Such a cladding is not afraid of the effects of high humidity, temperature changes, abrasive loads, in itself it is very attractive in appearance, it is easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - it's better not to find it. And what is more important - it is quite possible to cope with the process of laying it on your own.
Why does it make sense to try to do the cladding with your own hands? It's just that even if the surfaces for laying are perfectly flat, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of the master as the material itself costs, and this is even in the best case. Such expenses are quite avoidable. After reviewing our instruction article how to lay tiles on the wall, the reader will get a clear idea of all the stages of work, from the preparation of surfaces and the choice of tiles - to the sealing of the joints. And he will surely make sure that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such a finish.
Preliminary stages
Preparation of surfaces for finishing
It is completely pointless to start facing work on an unprepared wall. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that a layer of ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the "ugliness" of the surface, and the result will be a straight, beautiful wall. They are cruelly mistaken!
What does the preparation process involve?
- It is imperative to get rid of the old wall decoration. It will not, for example, keep adhesive tiles on the painted surface. Completely excluded or even small fragments of them. If there was a tile on the wall earlier, then after dismantling it, all flows and drops of frozen glue should be removed.
- The quality of the plaster layer, if any, is necessarily checked. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area, to identify the places of instability, which must also be removed. And most often it happens that if an exfoliating area is found in one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.
- In no case is it disregarded if traces of their biological damage are found on the walls - mold spots, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then you will have to carry out preliminary "treatment" of the wall
- There should be no cracks or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate repair work is carried out to ensure their high-quality termination.
- The wall should be flat, that is, it should be a plane, and not a twisted, collapsed, protruding or concave surface. The tiles fit onto the aligned walls without any problems. Yes, there are techniques for leveling walls precisely by installing ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not even all experienced craftsmen like to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer is about to "debut", but there is nothing to even think about. It will be much easier to align - and the finish will definitely turn out to be of high quality.
There are many ways of leveling, and some of them, for example, using moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber slabs are not so difficult and will not take much time.
Prices for moisture resistant drywall
moisture resistant drywall
How to level the walls yourself for finishing?
Do not be intimidated by this task in advance. There are many technologies available that even beginners can quickly master. Moreover, for laying tiles, the ideal smoothness of the surface is not required - just the correct geometry is enough. are discussed in detail in a special publication of our portal.
- Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, so you should also think about reliable waterproofing. To a greater extent, this applies, of course, to the floor, but on the walls it makes sense to provide waterproofed"Belt" at least 100 ÷ 200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is advisable to reinforce with waterproofing the sections of passage through the walls of water and sewer pipes, the area around water outlets.
And in frankly "wet" areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to perform a solid waterproofing. Approximate dimensional standards for these areas are shown in the illustration:
- Finally, the wall should be carefully primed with a deep penetration compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface, eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to harden in optimal conditions. The best adhesion performance is achieved. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic properties, and such a preventive treatment will never be superfluous.
If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting for the first layer to dry completely. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after the completion of the preparatory work. But if for some reason there is a significant gap in time between this stage and finishing, it will be desirable to apply the primer again - a day before the installation of the tiles. So a quality result will be guaranteed.
Wall primer prices
primer for walls
Drawing up a project and choosing the necessary tiles
It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will dwell only on some practical aspects.
Planning the placement of tiles on the walls
Of course, the owners should already imagine what they want to see in the end. Surely you have familiarized yourself with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, it remains for them to "fit" the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their premises.
Here you should not rely on the "eye". The best option is to draw up a graphic diagram for each of the walls separately. Moreover, if it is not supposed to be a continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or with division into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites to optimally place tiles on the walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own or in a graphic editor, or just over paper diagrams.
- In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will be on the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately estimate, and which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult to remove this area accurately, if not impossible. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the eye of the incoming person, such an arrangement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose such an arrangement to start from the center of the wall - aafterfrom it is laid to the edges with the same trimming on both sides.
It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tiles. It often happens that the layout seems to be optimal when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then there is a wiring to the sides with again symmetrical trimming along the edges.
The trimmed edges can be easily hidden by installing solid tiles from the corner on the adjacent wall. If two cut edges converge in the inner corner, then this can also be solved - by grinding one of them. At the outer corners, a decorative corner copes well with this task. More details will be discussed later.
- They also show the necessary "creativity" when planning vertical rows. So, laying looks not particularly advantageous, which will end under the ceiling with a narrow section. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or stretch ceiling.
But a narrow section can be launched first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will not be at all visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. More precisely, this bottom row is generally recommended to be laid out last, so no problems with accurate pruning are foreseen. All this will be shown below.
However, other circumstances may influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. This can be the features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing devices. For example, it is always recommended to place the tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the rim by 20 ÷ 30 mm. This will not violate the aesthetics of the styling, and will remove the vulnerable seam from the "wet" area.
- When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Let it not seem like a trifle: when using not very large tiles, but on a large wall, the difference is considerable.
Too large thickness of the joints is often not required when laying on the wall. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting with a fugue, the visual effect of thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will seem wider.
- It is clear that when drawing up diagrams, it takes into account the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements. If a fully-fledged plan for each of the walls is constantly at hand, then during the installation process there is much less chance of making a mistake.
Some of the nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls
Wall tiles are much easier than floor tiles. The indicators of its strength, abrasion resistance, roughness, etc., are fading into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.
We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate topic. But some important points should still be emphasized.
Prices for ceramic tiles
ceramic tile
- There is a very wide variety of formats on sale. But you should not immediately chase large tiles. First, it doesn't look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it, a lot of waste can remain, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, the installation of such a cladding requires some experience, and a novice master may not cope with the task - any mistake will be in plain sight.
If the first independent laying of tiles is to be done, then it is better to proceed from its average size, for example, up to 300 ÷ 400 mm along the long side.
- should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
- If wall cladding is planned in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for the material marked with a snowflake pictogram - it is not afraid of freezing.
- Without fail, all purchased packages of tiles of the same type are checked for consistency. The fact is that the same article, but released in different shifts, may slightly differ in the color tone. Visually, this is most often not noticed in the store. But after laying on the surface, even a slight difference can spoil the overall appearance.
- Of course, they are trying to purchase tiles of the highest possible grade. Even at factories, products are sorted, and products with distorted shapes are sold as second or even third-rate. With them, you can be exhausted when styling.
- Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions of the finished product closer to the declared standard. However, the specificity of ceramic production does not yet allow achieving a unique coincidence of the sizes of all tiles without exception. On the packaging of a tile, its caliber may be indicated - by letter or number designation, and a plate with its decoding may be attached.
It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to her, since unjustified savings can lead to an unsuccessful finish, and in the end result the total costs will be clearly negative.
- In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to acquire the missing quantity - the required batch may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with a competent layout and high-quality cutting of the material, this is enough. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the stock can be increased up to 15% - there will be more waste in any way. But we note right away that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal installation without good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
- Do not hesitate to ask the store to inspect all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged in transit. Yes, and an obvious marriage sometimes comes across.
- Even top-notch tiles of the same batch and the most accurate caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for facing the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - to push aside "to the periphery". And the one that has the most significant dimensional distortions or with small defects can already be used for cutting to fill areas along the corners or the floor.
- The number of tiles is usually calculated per piece. This can be done if a high-quality scheme is drawn up. And all the more you have to do this when it is planned to use several varieties to create a special decorative effect of the interior.
But in the case when it is supposed to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There it will be necessary to indicate the area of the finish, the dimensions of the tiles and the width of the tile joint. The spare 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the allocation principle.
The possibility of installing new flooring on the surface of the old one allows you to skip several stages of renovation and significantly save on this process.
Examination of the old floor
If you don't remove the old tiles from the bathroom floor then:
- you do not need to purchase a punch and a number of other tools;
- it will be possible to avoid the time-consuming and dirty work of dismantling tiles and removing debris;
- no screed alignment is required, which will greatly reduce the repair time.
Before proceeding with the repair of the bathroom floor, you need to examine each tile of the old coating. A visual inspection is required first. If the tile is covered with cracks or its surface is swollen, then this indicates a poor adhesion of the material to the base of the floor. Such tiles cannot serve as a solid foundation for a new floor covering.
Important: When examining the floor, you need to pay attention to the condition of the tile joints. The crumbled grout is poured with cement mortar or filled with tile glue.
Tip: In order for the mortar to evenly fill the joints, it is best to use a trowel or putty knife.
The absence of defects in the appearance of the tiles is not yet a complete proof of the strength of the coating. If, when tapping with a hammer, a floor element emits a ringing or rattling sound, then it is poorly adhered to the base. An old floor is suitable for tiling only if only a few defective tiles are found during the revision process.
Preparing old flooring for tiling
Degraded floor elements are completely removed. The resulting holes are poured with a sand-cement mixture. The repair is continued after the solution has completely hardened.
Tip: It is necessary to pay attention to the level of the floor in the bathroom, which, after the completion of the repair, should remain below the threshold.
This recommendation must be followed by everyone who wants to know whether it is possible to put tiles on tiles on the floor in the bathroom and who use its sidewalk variety for this. This type of tile is much higher in height than similar materials designed for bathroom floors. Its use can significantly raise the floor level, which will allow spilled water to flow freely into the living space.
The glazed surface of ceramic tiles can significantly reduce the adhesive properties of the adhesive. To enhance the adhesion of the subfloor to the adhesive, it is notched, holes are drilled or the glaze is completely cleaned off, right down to the ceramic. Depending on the chosen method of affecting the surface of the tile, you will need the following tools:
- hammer and chisel;
- electric drill;
- grinder with a diamond disc.
The second factor that negatively affects the adhesion parameters of adhesives is dust. To completely remove it, the bathroom floor is swept and vacuumed. Wet cleaning of the room will also be required, without the use of detergents.
An invisible fatty film is removed from the floor surface, otherwise it will become an obstacle for the glue. The degreasing procedure consists in carefully treating each tile with gasoline or acetone. The same effect is obtained by washing the tiles three times with caustic soda. The gaps between the tiles, in which dust and grease always accumulate in large quantities, are washed with special care.
Floor primer
To improve the adhesion of the base of the floor and the tile covering, its surface is primed. It is recommended to use the primer "Betonokontakt", "Ivsil Basis-Beton" and "Ceresit CN94". This finishing material, along with sand and cement, contains additional components. Their presence gives the plastered surface a pronounced roughness.
Advice: particles of the cured primer are removed with great difficulty, therefore, before using it, you need to close the walls, pipes and plumbing equipment with polyethylene.
Advice:
You need to buy a primer at the rate of 300 g per 1 sq. m. area. To apply it, you will need a roller or brush. Using the tool, the primer is evenly distributed over the floor surface, being careful not to leave untreated areas. The use of "Betonokontakt" simplifies the priming process, because the surfaces treated with it acquire a pinkish tint.
After priming, the floor should dry. This will take about three hours. A properly plastered floor surface after drying, in its texture, will resemble sandpaper.
Choosing adhesive for tiles
When answering yes to the question of whether it is possible to lay floor tiles on top of old tiles to obtain a solid structure, it is recommended to cover the floors with a thin layer of glue. Its thickness should not exceed 2 mm. This composition is applied to the surface as soon as the primer is dry. The next stage of the repair is started after the glue mass has completely solidified.
- Ivsil Profit;
- Ceresit CM17;
- Vetonit Renovation.
Tip: In order for the structure of the glue to be uniform, it is best to knead it with a construction mixer.
"Ivsil Profit" is intended for fixing porcelain stoneware. Its use allows you to always get a reliable tile flooring. A similar result is guaranteed even if the tile is mounted on an old tile base.
Adhesives "Ceresit CM16" and "Vetonit Renovation" have the highest adhesion characteristics. They are used to work with various complex surfaces. One of the options for their use can be an old tile flooring.
Installation of a new tile covering
The technology of laying tiles on tiles has some differences. The initial row is positioned so that the seams of the old and new coatings do not coincide. A spatula with a comb height of 1.5 cm is suitable for applying the glue.
The adhesive mass is evenly distributed with a spatula over the entire surface of the tile. Then, it is pressed firmly against the base of the floor. A small gap is left between adjacent tiles - 2-3 mm.
Tip: The distance between the floor elements will be the same if you put special "crosses" between them during the installation process.
After all the tiles have been laid, the tile dividers are removed and the inter-tile joints are processed. For the final process, you will need a matching color grout and a rubber trowel. After the grout has dried, wipe the floor surface with a damp sponge or a well wrung out soft cloth.
48 hours after the installation of the tile floor, you can begin to use it intensively. This flooring will prove to be durable, despite the fact that several stages of renovation work were skipped in the process of its creation. It is important that the tiles are laid on the old tiles in accordance with all the rules given in this article.