For fencing a summer cottage there is a wide selection of fences made of concrete, plastic, metal profiles, netting, etc. Some of them shade both their own and the neighboring area, and this prevents the normal growth of plants. Also, various pests appear in the shade. This fence destroys the soil and plantings. The latter type of fence does not rank first in the list, but it is still quite in demand among many summer residents.
An excellent option for giving is a chain-link fence. He is metal steel wire. Wire spirals are twisted one into one.
Grid-chain-link: advantages and disadvantages
Any owner of a summer cottage seeks to enclose his land with a fence. Moreover, the fence should be strong and durable and reliable.
Advantages of a chain-link fence:
The disadvantages of the chain-link mesh include:
- the site cannot be hidden from prying eyes (perhaps if it is decorated with weaving plants);
- there is no sound insulation;
- non-galvanized mesh quickly rusts.
If you want to purchase an inexpensive, but relatively quality material, then a chain-link mesh is perfect for fencing a summer cottage, a technical zone, a lake, sports grounds, a chicken coop and a corral for animals.
Methods for making mesh-netting
For the manufacture of the mesh, wire is used from low carbon steel. It can be uncoated, galvanized or polymer coated. A special machine spins the spirals and automatically rolls them into rolls. The meshes are made using various technologies. The result is non-galvanized, polymer-coated or hot-dip galvanized.
Non-galvanized mesh is made from ferrous metal. If you don't paint it immediately after installation, it will start to rust. In order for the mesh to look beautiful and well-groomed, it needs to be repainted every 3 years.
Galvanized wire mesh is in the greatest demand among consumers because does not corrode, withstands various temperature conditions. It is made in two ways: electrolytic, that is, thinly coated with zinc, and hot-dip galvanized (thick zinc coating). To begin with, the mesh is welded and then galvanized. If there are spots on the mesh, then it is galvanized. If there are no stains, then it was first boiled and then galvanized. This method is more efficient and durable.
Polymer-coated mesh is the most convenient and practical. And its price is correspondingly higher. The mesh is covered with polymeric materials (polyvinyl chloride or PVC coating), which also protect against negative influences and have an aesthetic appearance. The size of the cells can be different: 10 × 10 or 65 × 65... The ends of the mesh are bent and twisted.
There are 2 types of chain-link fence - tension and sectional. The first type is the cheapest. It is not difficult to install the tensioning netting-netting: it is attached to the post, unwound to another post, then stretched and attached to the post. In this case, the post can be wooden, metal or concrete.
The cost of a sectional fence is much higher than a stretch fence. This type of fence has a section frame in which the mesh is installed.
How to choose a mesh-netting
The net is rolled into rolls and sold in the store as such. The height reaches 1.5 m, the length is 10 m. If a size larger than the standard one is required, then you can order the required length and height of the chain-link.
How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands
First you need measure the plot. Drive the pillars into the ground every 2.5-3 m. The required number of pillars is calculated as follows: the size of each side of the plot divided by 2.5. For example, you have a plot of 32 m. So 32 / 2.5 will be 12.8. An integer is very rare, so in this case, you need to take 13 pillars and set at a distance of 2.46 meters from each other, or take 12 poles and set each of them at a distance 2.5 meters. Only make the distance between the last pillars a little less. The first method is not the best, because you cannot accurately calculate 2.46 meters, the second more acceptable.
To determine the height of the corner and intermediate posts, you need to the width of the chain-link add 10 cm, and for pillars approximately 1 - 1.5 m. A large load falls on the corner posts, so the posts should be driven deeper into the ground by 20 cm. First, you should install the corner posts, and then only the intermediate ones.
Further, the base is necessary pour cement. You can dig deep holes, fill in a small layer of sand there. Then install the pillars and cover it with rubble or fragments of bricks. Foundation again cover with sand, and fill with water. Pour this layer with cement mortar. The quantitative ratio of cement, sand and water is reduced to 1: 4. Control the position of the pillars, they must be flat. To do this, pull the thread and check it. We install the mesh when the concrete has completely hardened.
We stretch the mesh netting
To stretch the mesh, you first need to weld on the hooks on the support. These can be nails, screws, or any materials at hand. At the next stage, we pull the chain-link on the pillars. We straighten the roll and place it near the first pillar. To fix the mesh you need to hang on hooks. Next, we pass the thick wire vertically into the first row of the mesh. The cross-section of the mesh should be 4 mm. We hang the net on hooks, and the cable or wire weld to the post. This is necessary so that the mesh does not sag or bend.
Next, unwind the net roll to the next post, thread a rod or the wire in the first cells and stretch the mesh. Mounting the mesh alone is not easy, the mesh can not be pulled very well, it is better when there is an assistant.
After that, in a horizontal position, thread the cable and weld to the post. The distance from the top and bottom edges should be 10-20 cm. The net on other posts is installed in the same way. It may turn out that 1.5 meters remain, but you need to pull 2.5. To do this, take new canvas add one to one to the remainder and weave between them wire. Ultimately, you will end up with a solid mesh.
After stretching the mesh of the entire section, bend the hooks.
The last stage of arranging the mesh-netting is painting it. For safety reasons, the protruding antennae need to be twisted.
Install the mesh sections the chain-link
If you purchased a sectional mesh, then install it in the following way. First you need weld the frame for the section. To do this, you need a corner measuring 30 × 4 or 40 × 5 mm. Take away 15 cm from the distance of the two posts is the length of the frame. Next, subtract the pillars from the height 10 cm is the width of the frame. After all measurements, weld the corners.
Roll of mesh reduce if necessary to the desired size. You need to fasten the mesh in the same way as the tension. We thread the rods into the upper and lower rows of the mesh, stretch the mesh and weld to the horizontal corners. Ultimately, you should have a mesh with rods or cables welded inside.
Weld to the existing posts in a horizontal position metal stripes, the length of which should be 20-30 cm, the width - 5 cm, and the cross-section 5 mm. Place the resulting section between the pillars and weld to the strips.
Mesh fence - chain-link easy to do to help you need 2-3 people.
A fence made of a chain-link mesh is distinguished by its simplicity of installation technology and device. There are different types of structures, for the construction of each of which you can use different materials: with or without anti-corrosion coating, with any size of the cells (from small to large sizes). For a summer residence, this is one of the most suitable fences.
Advantages and disadvantages of a mesh fence
If we consider the positive properties of such a design, the main ones can be distinguished:
- Low cost of the material, and at the same time the entire fence;
- Built independently;
- Minimum expenditure of time and physical effort;
- The design is completely "transparent", which ensures free circulation of air masses;
- A fence made of a chain-link mesh does not affect the development of a number of growing plantations, since it lets the sun's rays through and does not form a shadow;
- The ability to decorate the fence, letting climbing plants along the fence, thereby the structure becomes a support for a hedge.
There are also enough cons. First of all, it should be noted the low level of reliability and short-lived period of operation. Only some of the types of such material will last for several decades.
In addition, the chain-link fence is not attractive. This is a simple structure with average external characteristics, which is often used as a fence for a summer house.
Overview of the main mesh views
To get a fence with the desired characteristics, you should carefully study the range of similar products. There are several types of chain-link, each of which differs in a number of properties.
Non-galvanized material
The cloth of this type is made of steel wire, which is not subjected to heat treatment. It does not have a protective coating, which makes it vulnerable to external factors, such as moisture. Accordingly, when using this type of material, it is better to cover it yourself with protective compounds.
A fence made of non-galvanized material will last you 2.5–3 years, no more.
The mesh sizes of the mesh fabric vary from 5 to 100 mm on one side. Their shape: square or diamond-shaped. Fences from a non-galvanized chain-link can be erected no higher than 2 m, which is determined by the width of the roll. The wire thickness is 1.2-5 mm.
The main advantage of uncoated material is its versatility, since it can be used to solve various types of tasks: the construction of fences, use as a reinforcement of the foundation, roadbed, walls of objects for various purposes, reinforced concrete slabs.
The main disadvantage is the short service life due to the lack of a protective coating. And in addition to this, fences made of non-galvanized chain-link do not differ in attractiveness.
Galvanized material
If we compare this type of mesh and the above analogue, then the first option is undoubtedly better in a number of characteristics: it has a protective coating (galvanized); lasts much longer; more attractive appearance due to the applied layer of anti-corrosion protection; it is resistant to the effects of different groups of aggressive media.
The basis of the material is galvanized steel wire, the diameter of which varies from 1.6 to 5 mm.
Galvanized, heat-treated mesh can withstand temperature fluctuations from minus 40 to plus 70 degrees.
The mesh sizes are the same as for non-galvanized material: from 5 to 100 mm. A chain-link fence in this design can be built up to 2 m in height. Scope of application: construction of site fences, for example, summer cottages, as well as aviaries for birds and animals; used in finishing works (plastering, thermal insulation); mining industry; Agriculture.
The disadvantages of this type are approximately the same as that of non-galvanized material: low level of reliability of the fence in comparison with most analogues; wide view, which sometimes gets in the way.
And still it is necessary to note the risk of damage to the coating. This usually leads to a deterioration in performance.
Polymer coated material
It comes in two variations:
- non-galvanized plasticized;
- galvanized plasticized.
Considering the properties, pros and cons of the first two types of chain-link discussed above, it is better to use galvanized material with a polymer layer. Such a fence will last much longer thanks to the double anti-corrosion protection.
In terms of external characteristics, plasticized material is superior to galvanized and non-galvanized mesh. This variety is made of metal wire with different processing, on top of which a polyvinyl chloride coating is applied.
The polymerized look looks more attractive compared to others and is completely unaffected by excessive moisture.
A fence made of a chain-link mesh of this type is built no higher than 2 m. The thickness of the wire used: 2.5 mm; 2.8 mm. The main areas of application of plasticized material are the same as in the case of galvanized, non-galvanized mesh.
Main advantages: long-term operation; wide range of coating shades; does not require maintenance and staining; versatility. The decisive disadvantage of such a material is the risk of damage to the protective layer, which reduces the service life.
Comparison of prices and properties of mesh materials
To get an idea of which chain-link fence for arranging a summer cottage is better for a number of factors, it is recommended to make a small comparison of the cost and basic properties of various materials.
Price category
The cost of a mesh fabric can vary greatly, ranging from 60 to 300 rubles / sq. m, which is influenced by the main parameters of the material: the dimensions of the cells, the diameter of the wire, the type of protective coating.
The cost of a mesh fence depends on several parameters: mesh material, mesh size, wire thickness in the mesh and the method of its fastening.
The most affordable is the non-galvanized mesh. It is followed by galvanized material. The plasticized mesh fabric will cost more than others, since it is characterized by a number of important properties.
Quality, degree of reliability
Again, the polymer-coated version is more robust and reliable enough. Such properties make it possible to operate the material for tens of years.
Accordingly, the thinner, the cheaper and lighter the mesh, but less strong and durable.
This is due to the presence of a polymer layer, which is more difficult to deform than brittle zinc.
Construction speed
A fence for a summer residence from a mesh in different versions is built using similar technologies. However, the non-galvanized version needs additional painting, which increases the installation time of the fence.
Accordingly, it is more profitable to use galvanized and polymer materials, since a fence made of a mesh of these types does not need additional coating with a protective compound, which saves time.
If the financial issue is acute, then the middle option, which combines both sufficient reliability and acceptable cost, is a galvanized type of mesh. Its service life is quite long, provided that it is treated with care at the stage of transportation and installation, as well as during further operation.
However, the best option of the three considered types is still plasticized material. Its service life is much longer, and its external characteristics are much higher.
All these factors together will allow you to choose the best material for certain conditions.
A neat and fairly reliable fence made of chain-link mesh. This is, if not the most popular version of the fence device, then at least it is in great demand, since the material from which it is made has many advantages. On the building materials market, you can find different types of this mesh, differing in the size of the cells, the length and width of the rolls, the presence or absence of a vinyl covering. Each specific project may have its own version. But in any case, regardless of the type of material, the installation of a fence from a chain-link mesh can be carried out by the owner of the site himself, which reduces the cost of installing a fence. And often this fact is decisive when choosing such a mesh.
How to choose a mesh netting for a fence device?
The netting-netting was invented by Karl Rabitz back in the middle of the 19th century. Then it was used as a base for plastering walls.
It is interesting that it would be correct to call this material the Rabitz mesh after its inventor Karl Rabitz, who invented the machine for its production. Nevertheless, in almost every country there was an inventor who patented the equipment for production, so the mesh is called differently from different manufacturers.
In domestic practice, it is called a netting and is produced from wires of different diameters. How to make the right choice to build a reliable and practical mesh fence?
The strength of this kind of mesh is not least determined by the size of the mesh and the diameter of the wire from which it is woven. The smaller the size of the mentioned cell and the larger the diameter of the wire, the more steel alloy will fall on each of its square meters, and the greater the strength of the mesh. If the buyer has doubts when choosing, he can ask to weigh the roll, calculate this indicator per m², then compare with the theoretical value. If the difference between them exceeds 5%, and not in favor of a new roll, then the production technology has not been fully followed. Perhaps, in this case, weakened cells will occur, or the roll may have a lower weight compared to the norm.
How much chain-link mesh is needed for a fence? To calculate the quantity, you need to know not only the perimeter of the site, but also the parameters of the roll. In the standard version, the roll height is 1.5 m, and the length is 10 m. However, rolls with a height of 1.5–2 m are also produced. In this case, its length may already be 18 m. They cost differently, but if calculate the price for 1 m², it becomes clear that in the second case it will be significantly lower. In general, the longer the material, the lower the price for 1 m². This allows a large amount of material to be ordered immediately. In some cases, you can order the production of rolls according to individual parameters. This will be the best option.
Corrosion protection as a selection criterion
The main methods of protecting the netting from corrosion include galvanizing, applying a polymer layer and using stainless steel
The mesh netting for the fence, although it is actively used to fence the territory, that is, it was originally designed to be used outdoors, is far from being as well protected from moisture as we would like. Therefore, sometimes the owner of the site even has to protect the fence from the effects of water on his own, otherwise it will begin to rust in a month. What methods are used for this?
In an industrial environment, a chain-link fence is galvanized - this is the most common option for combating corrosion. Therefore, when buying, you should clarify this point. A chain-link fence made of steel wire with a galvanized zinc coating is quite expensive. But this is the most durable option. Such a fence mesh sectional chain-link can last 15–20 years, which is considered a very serious result. The advantages of this option are that the galvanized fence will not need to be painted later, except perhaps for decorative purposes. At the same time, the galvanized coating itself is invisible: it does not crack from frost and temperature changes, does not fade in the sun, and does not lose its operational properties.
Most domestic manufacturers process the mesh netting by hot-dip galvanizing. With this technology, the amount of zinc applied to the wire is of fundamental importance. Therefore, it is important to buy a mesh from a reputable manufacturer who strictly adheres to all standards. The fact is that the relative availability of mesh weaving machines led to the expansion of its production in artisanal conditions. And these manufacturers tend to save on everything.
Some factories produce electrolytic zinc coated mesh. It is considered to be more advanced and it doesn't matter how much zinc is used when using it. It should also be noted that if a sectional fence made of a chain-link mesh is installed on the sea coast, where the air contains a lot of salt and moisture, then galvanizing will do its job much worse. In such cases, it is advised to install a vinyl-covered fence.
In this case, you also need to take very seriously the choice of the manufacturer. The fact is that unscrupulous manufacturers can save on the quality of such a coating. And then it will discolor in the sun and crack under the influence of low temperatures. Respectable manufacturers produce such a polymer coating that can withstand temperatures down to -35 ° C without cracking or fading in the sun. How can a buyer determine the quality of this material? You need to look at the inner surface of the wire coils that form the mesh. If cuts or scratches are already visible in these areas, although the material has not yet been used in the field, then this means that such a mesh will not last long enough. Since water can enter the cuts, and then the entire structure will begin to rust, and right under the vinyl covering. And then after a couple of years it can crack in the cold.
At the same time, a high-quality colored polymer coating looks very attractive. It is possible to construct temporary barriers made of this material. For example, it can be frames for flower gazebos, pergolas, summer playpen.
For information
When choosing a grid, pay particular attention to the size of the cells. The smaller the mesh, the stronger and more expensive the mesh
A fence made of a chain-link mesh with your own hands can theoretically be mounted from non-galvanized material. This mesh is often referred to as black. But such a mesh needs constant anti-corrosion protection, so it is regularly painted. In this case, the size of the cells matters.
Black mesh-netting with small cells up to 10-15 mm in size is not used for fencing. It is used only for plastering work, since it is made from too thin wire. Larger mesh can also be used to build fences. Although it needs to be constantly painted, it is in certain demand, since it costs several times cheaper than a galvanized mesh.
How to build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands?
There are several ways to independently erect a fence from a rabitsi mesh. All of them are quite simple and do not require preparation.
Although a sectional chain-link fence is considered almost the simplest option of all possible, all the same, for the device of such a fence, a project must be made, and simultaneously with the project of the site itself.
How to make a fence from a chain-link mesh? As a rule, we are talking about a sectional structure, therefore, first you need to make the markup not on the plan, but on the site. For these purposes, you must use a regular cord. It is recommended to stretch it along the entire perimeter of the area on which the fence will stand. Then, in accordance with the project, you need to mark the installation locations of the pillars - they can be concrete or metal. The distance between them should be 3 m. This is a universal indicator that can be used for a site of any layout and length.
After the markings have been made, you can calculate how many poles you will need to buy. As for their length, it is determined by the width of the mesh, that is, the height of the roll. If it is a standard roll of 1.5 m high, then it is better to order the posts with a height of 2.5 m. But this only applies to ordinary posts. There will be several more corner ones (depending on the site plan), as well as pillars on which you need to install a gate or a wicket. Their height should be higher, since they have a heavy load. That is, in the described example, these are pillars 3 m long.
What do you need to build a fence with your own hands? Stands are needed, but they can be made from different materials. It can be pipes, both metal and asbestos-cement, or a steel corner. They can be mounted in soil or concrete, therefore, in the second case, cement will be needed from the materials. Very often, metal pipes are still used as pillars, since this is a very affordable material, and at the same time quite durable. The diameter of the pipes is selected so that they can withstand the load. Typically, the diameter varies between 5-10 cm, and the walls of the pipes must be sufficiently thick. In general, blanks for supports need preliminary preparation. If corrosion is noticeable, then they will need to be cleaned from rust, possibly cut off the edges, it all depends on the specific situation. Ideally, it is better to buy galvanized poles. But if you did not manage to get such, then the pipes need to be painted and wait until they dry.
The installation of pillars is the most important stage in the construction of a chain-link fence. Usually, holes for such supports are made using a garden drill - a relatively inexpensive tool. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the diameter of the pit is not much larger than the diameter of the post, so that it can be easily installed.
When calculating the installation depth, it must be remembered that, according to the rules, the support should rise by 10 cm above the mesh.That is, with a post length of 2.5 m and a roll height of 1.5 m, the support should be buried 80 cm.However, higher posts for corner supports and the wickets must be buried deeper - by about 1.3 m. All posts must be strictly vertical, they must be even.
Most often, the supports are poured with concrete, especially on sandy soils and loams. But sometimes the holes are simply thrown with stones and earth and properly tamped. This is especially true for soils such as clay or heavy loam. In such cases, in spring and autumn, water makes a path for itself between the walls of the pillar and the concrete mass, gradually accumulates at the bottom of the hole and begins to destroy the base of the fence. Moreover, there is always a risk that in winter, when this liquid freezes, it will expand, the effect of heaving soil will appear, and the pillar will, as it were, push out from the hole. On light soils, this does not happen, since the water seeps in them further, and nothing remains at the bottom of the hole.
The roll of netting is unwound on the span, from post to post
The fence device from the chain-link mesh includes several stages. And after the markings have been made and the pillars are reliably dug in and concreted (and at the same time and dried), you can start pulling the mesh. First you need to carefully unwind the roll. Usually, this work cannot be done alone, and the owner of the site will need the help of at least 1 more person.
So, the roll is freed from binding, the plastic or paper packaging is removed from it, they are no longer needed. The roll must be laid on a flat surface and turned so that its end is at the bottom. Gradually, you can unwind the roll, continuing to gently rotate it around its axis and unfolding the net in a straightened form. If it will be seen that the ends of the wire spirals have twisted somewhere, this cannot be ignored. It is necessary to stop the layout of the roll, untangle these spirals, remove the hold and then continue. The canvas must have straight edges. If they turn over somewhere, they need to be carefully corrected, and for this you just need to turn the spiral along its axis in one direction or another according to the situation. Then all cells in the canvas will be even.
How to pull the netting to the net so that it does not sag? It is necessary to pull the additional wire along the top and bottom, which is also fixed on the supports. So the cost of such a wire should be added to the costs of installing the fence. It is secured using special tension bolts. Separate intermediate fasteners are made, when the wire is passed through pre-made holes on the posts, they are made by drilling using special equipment. The diameter of the drilled hole is about 12 mm. This applies to all 3 holes on each pole, as the wires will go through each of them. Most often, it is pulled in 3 lines: upper, middle and lower. And the mesh is attached immediately to these 3 lines, pulling as tightly as possible.
How it's done? You need to take an already unwound roll of mesh, put it vertically, make sure that the bent ends of the wires are directed upwards. If you look at the grid, you can see that the cells form lines. Each line should be secured at the top of the post, then a piece of the unwound roll is transferred to the next post. It is also more convenient to do this together.
The top wire must be pre-aligned. It is cut into pieces, their length should exceed the distance between the supports in order to get a small, about half a meter, reserve for securing. A piece of wire is pulled not through the top, but through the second mesh cell from the top, then through other cells of this row, after which the ends of the wire are pulled through the corresponding holes drilled in the posts and fixed on them. Similar actions are done at each gap between the posts. The mesh is pulled over the lower and middle wire lines accordingly. This is why alignment is so important.
If, for some reason, the netting runs out, it can be securely fastened to the next roll. But to do this, you will have to independently remove the extreme line of the roll (it is considered a spring one), then impose the edges of the canvas that need to be connected. The turned out spring stitch is woven again, but this time into the aligned edges of the fabrics. It will take time, and certain skills are needed, but it will look very neat.
Sectional fence installation
Before installing a sectional fence, you need to create a frame from a corner of 40/5 mm in size for the manufacture of a frame
Despite the fact that the rolled mesh chain-link has many advantages, over time, a fence made of such a material, even stretched over poles, can lose its attractiveness, since the mesh fabric will sag. In this case, if the owner of the site considers the mesh as a permanent fence, it is recommended to install a fence from the sections.
Such sections are formed on the basis of a regular mesh and a metal corner (you can use 2 standard sizes - 40x40 and 50x50 cm). A rectangular frame of the required size is formed from the corner, and the mesh is stretched there. The sizes of the sections can be different, it all depends on the specific conditions of the site. It is not worthwhile to carry out such work on your own; it is better to order them at least in a specialized workshop or immediately at the manufacturer. In general, marking when installing a sectional fence plays an even more important role. Much depends on the parameters of each section. But it must be remembered that there must still be a small distance between the posts and the frame so that the sections can be welded to the posts normally, exactly 15 cm.
How to install such a fence? Like a conventional fence, such a fence needs preliminary marking. In addition, here you will need reinforced concrete or metal posts, which can be fixed in the ground by different methods. In the simplest version, you just need to drive a profile of the appropriate shape into the ground: round, square or even rectangular. Since the pillar needs to be driven into a depth of 60–80 cm, for this you need to use a fairly impressive sledgehammer. The main attraction of this method is its speed and simplicity. But the soil, on which even a relatively small load is found, will begin to sag in a couple of years, and then the fence may deform.
The combined option is considered a more reliable method. A hole is made in the ground up to 40 cm deep, and the posts are driven into the ground to approximately the same depth. The space around this post in the hole must be filled with cement mortar in order to securely fix the fence. Even if deformation occurs (and such an option cannot be completely ruled out), it will happen very soon. And this is only because that part of the rod that is simply driven into the ground, after about 10-15 years, can seriously suffer from corrosion, and then the fastening can weaken. For prevention, you can treat it with a composition against corrosion.
It's important to know
For an inclined site, you can make a sectional fence, installing sections on both sides of the pillars at different distances along the soil level
The so-called butting is considered a more reliable method. That is, to the entire depth of digging in the pillars (60–80 cm), you need to dig a hole, insert a support into it, throw the resulting void with rather large pieces of broken concrete, brick or granite, and all the waste is compacted with a crowbar or a shovel handle. And then all the voids must be concreted. You can limit yourself to concreting only to the full depth to the very bottom. The underground part in such columns is preserved even better than the aboveground one. Although this method is much more expensive.
After all the pillars are installed, metal strips are welded to them, which in this case serve as supports. Along the edges of the supports, 15–20 cm are left, as mentioned above. Sections are also welded to the supports. Their installation usually requires special welding equipment, but it is quite enough for this semi-professional device to achieve the desired result.
Additionally
Painted metal is less susceptible to corrosion and will last several times longer
If the sections are made of vinyl-coated chain-link, it is not necessary to paint the wire itself, but the posts and the corner need to be painted. If we are talking about a non-galvanized mesh, then you need to paint the entire structure as a whole. Although there are more elements in it than in a conventional fence, the paint consumption will be significantly higher. You can also get a more interesting design, for example, by using 2 colors of paint. A special paint is needed - for metal in order to obtain optimal adhesion.
Chain-link fences - pros and cons
Chain-link fences have few disadvantages. The main ones are absolute visibility and rusting, if at the time of installation there are no attempts to protect the netting from corrosion.
In everything else, from ease of installation to a long and impeccable service life, chain-link fences received only the most positive reviews. So, what the advantages and disadvantages of a chain-link fence will be discussed in this article of a construction magazine.
Chain-link fences - pros and cons
And, perhaps, one should start with the advantages of chain-link fences. First of all, these are:
- Ease of installation - there are no heavy elements in the construction of a fence made of a chain-link mesh, therefore, during installation, it is possible to abandon the foundation and use of expensive supports. As them, you can take both a metal profiled pipe of a small section, and a wooden bar. Both are capable of ensuring reliable fastening of the chain-link mesh to the fence.
- The possibility of saving - at home, a completely uncomplicated technological process. However, if it is correctly implemented, it will be possible to install a fence from a chain-link mesh, almost at half price or completely for next to nothing.
- To achieve better illumination of the site - fences made of corrugated board or slate, especially if they are high, noticeably shade the garden plot. The main advantage of chain-link fences is precisely the fact that they contribute to the maximum and natural illumination of the garden area. In this case, when installing a fence from a chain-link mesh, the most favorable conditions are created for the growth of gardening crops.
- The possibility of self-installation - not one other fence is as easy to install with your own hands as. What can I say, for its installation, there is no need to attract special equipment or large human resources. It is enough to install only the supports, even without the need to install horizontal beams, and then pull the netting over them. This completes the installation of the fence.
Nevertheless, not everything is as rosy as it might seem at first glance. And chain-link fences, like any others, also have a number of their significant disadvantages.
First of all, it is, of course, as mentioned above, good visibility. Therefore, a chain-link fence is absolutely not suitable in cases where you need to hide the area from annoying neighbors' eyes. In this case, it is better to give preference to the construction of a light and beautiful one, or, in extreme cases, using the most ordinary asbestos slate, which is easy to paint in the future.
The second disadvantage of chain-link fences is their strong susceptibility to corrosion. If the netting of the chain-link, at least not treated with special anti-corrosion agents, then after installing the fence, after a short period of time, traces of rust will appear on it, which will eventually lead to much more dire consequences.
Therefore, it is obvious that for chain-link fences, it is better to choose a galvanized mesh, which is not so susceptible to corrosive processes and has a much longer service life.
Chain-link- ideal for the construction of lightweight, durable, reliable fencing. The sun's rays will not meet resistance in their path.
Such a fence has many advantages.:
- Long service life;
- Structural strength;
- Installation and dismantling of the fence is done quickly enough;
- Acceptable cost;
- The space of the site visually expands;
- The removed mesh can be reused;
- If the size of the site is large, the use of this material will significantly save money.
Few disadvantages:
- Dust easily penetrates the cells;
- All your movements on the site are in plain sight.
How to choose a fence mesh
For the fence to perform its functions, define for yourself what it will be:
- Temporary;
- Permanent.
For a structure intended to be used for no more than 3 years, you can take:
- The cheapest untreated wire. Material - black metal. To reduce the effect of moisture, this type of mesh must be coated with paint. But be prepared for the fact that rust will still spoil it after a fairly short period of time.
If the fence is to be installed for a long time, select:
- Quality material made of galvanized metal and painted over. Corrosion of such a wire is not terrible;
- New - a material with a polymer protective layer. pros: The surface is more attractive and does not rust. Homeowners who have made plastic mesh fences have already appreciated the benefits.
Cells of different shapes do not particularly affect the selection.
You should know that a monolithic, strong fence has cells of a smaller diameter. If you need to fence off the poultry yard, choose 25mm cells, and 40mm is suitable for outdoor protection. People and animals will not be able to freely enter your territory.
Sectional mesh fence
A fence, the basis of which is made up of sections with a frame metal base and a tensioned wire inside, is called a sectional fence. This design is widespread in various regions. In addition to enclosing the territory of private houses, such a fence is used to protect various places, for example, gardeners' associations, tennis courts, aviaries, transformer booths, and construction sites.
Advantages of section construction:
- The coating allows the fence to maintain its original appearance for a long time;
- High strength and reliability;
- It well protects the territory from uninvited guests: small animals, as well as intruders;
- It is easy to carry out installation even where there are differences in height and uneven ground;
- Aesthetic design. Climbing flowering plants easily wrap around such a fence, creating a picturesque look.
Elements of the frame structure:
- A metal frame, welded using a corner or pipes of different diameters;
- Supports with fastening elements;
- A chain-link with a honeycomb structure, which is stretched inside the frame. Base - galvanized wire or with anti-corrosion polymer coating.
The device and installation of a fence from a chain-link mesh
The installation of the fence using a wire mesh can be carried out by the owner of the house himself, calling on a couple of people for help. You need to choose high-quality material so that the fence will last for a long time.
Stages of arranging the fence:
- Marking the site and determining the line along which the holes for the supports will be dug;
- Preparation of pits;
- Installation of pillars: wooden or metal, depending on whether the structure is temporary or permanent;
- For a temporary tension fence, the wire base is attached directly to the posts. For a sectional fence, sections are first made that have a frame made of a corner, inside which a wire mesh is stretched along the perimeter;
- The sections are fixed to the supports and the surface is painted.
Fence netting prices
Among the many options for arranging protection around a summer house or private home ownership, a chain-link fence is the most economical. What determines its cost of a chain-link mesh for fences? From the type of material you have chosen, the footage, the size of the cells and the thickness of the wire, the presence of wooden or metal supports. The fastening method is also taken into account.
For example choose a medium mesh base, but sufficient thickness: 50mm x 2mm. Standard roll - 10 meters:
- Ferrous metal wire: $ 2.8 for 1 running meter;
- Galvanized chain-link: $ 3.2 per meter. As you can see, the cost of raw material is almost the same as for high quality wire;
- PVC-coated chain-link(plasticized): $ 4.8 - the price of a running meter. Compared with the previous options, it will be more expensive. But if the fence is a permanent structure, the price will justify the excellent characteristics of the wire with a protective coating.
The finished version of the section with the use of a corner frame, which can be installed immediately, will cost the owner $ 18 per running meter. If you take into account that you just need to take and weld the sections to the supports, then such a cost is justified. An independent option for making the frame will greatly reduce the cost of the section.
Photo of fences from a mesh netting
The appearance and presentability of the structure largely depend on what you create. A temporary, tension fence looks pretty boring, but it does its job.
A permanent fence from a chain-link in sections may have a different appearance depending on:
- Cell size;
- Owner's chosen coating paint;
- Angle thickness;
- Fencing heights;
- The type and size of the profile or pipes from which the pillars are made.
Most owners prefer a simple, no frills, strict fencing using a chain-link.
But don’t think that wire construction is boring.... Here is an example of how the chain-link is used. Unusual? More expensive? But very interesting and stylish. And, you see, it is reliable.
Due to the presence on the market of such a convenient, inexpensive, high-quality material as a chain-link netting, summer residents and residents of their own homes have the opportunity to fence off the territory with the lowest cost and a good end result. This coating is ideal in terms of price, quality and performance.