7. Requirements for hand tools and accessories
7.1. Hand locksmith tools and devices for everyday use should be assigned to workers for individual or team use.
7.2. Hand tools in the tool room should be inspected at least once every ten days, as well as immediately before use. Defective tools must be removed.
7.3. Locksmith hammers must be made in accordance with GOST 2310 from steel grades 50, 40X or U7. The working ends of the hammers should have a hardness of 50.5-57 HRC per 1/5 of the length at both ends.
Hammers and sledge hammers must have a smooth surface, without chips and dents, cracks and burrs.
7.4. The handles of hammers, sledgehammers and other impact tools should be made of dry hardwood or synthetic materials that ensure the strength and reliability of the nozzle during work.
7.5. The handles (cuttings) of the shovels must be smooth and firmly fixed in the holders.
7.6. It is not allowed to use files, scrapers, screwdrivers without handles and retaining rings on them or with loose handles.
7.7. The crowbars and assemblies used during work must be smooth, without burrs, cracks and rivets.
7.8. Chisels, crosscutters, center punch, barbs must be made according to GOST 7211, GOST 7212, GOST 7213, GOST 7214 from steel grades U7, U7A, U8 or U8A Chisels, crossheads and barbs should not have cracks, captivity, hairs, knocked down and beveled ends. The cutting edge of chisels and crossheads is hardened to 0.3-0.5 total length and tempered to a hardness of 53-58 HRC. The working part of the barbs, cuts, cores, etc. hardened to a length of 15-25 mm to a hardness of 46.5-53 HRC. The back of the tools must be smooth, free of cracks, burrs and rivets. Hardness for a length of 15-25 mm should be in the range of 33.5-41.5 HRC. There should be no damage at the working end.
Work with a chisel, cross-cutter and other similar tools should be carried out with glasses.
In this case, the working area must be fenced.
7.9. Manual scissors for cutting metal must comply with GOST 7210.
Manual lever scissors must be securely fixed on special stands, workbenches and equipped with clamps on the upper movable knife, a shock absorber to cushion the impact of the knife holder and a counterweight that holds the upper movable knife in a safe position.
7.10. The shape and size of the wrenches must comply with the requirements of GOST 6424, GOST 2838 and GOST 2839.
Single-sided wrenches must comply with the requirements of GOST 2841.
Keys are made of steel not lower than grade 40X, and shortened ones - not lower than grade 40. The hardness of the working surfaces of keys should be: with throat sizes up to 36 mm - 41.5-46.5 HRC, over 41 mm - within 39.5- 46.5 HRC.
The key jaws must be strictly parallel and not rolled up. The size of the wrench jaws must match the size of the nuts and bolt heads. The dimensions of the jaws of the keys should not exceed the dimensions of nuts and bolts by more than 5%.
It is not allowed to loosen nuts and bolts with large wrenches using metal gaskets, as well as to lengthen the wrenches using pipes and other objects (use wrenches with extended handles).
7.11. The handles of the pliers and hand scissors must be smooth and free from dents, nicks or burrs. On the inside there should be a stop that prevents squeezing the fingers.
7.12. The vice should be made in accordance with GOST 4045, firmly attached to the workbench so that their jaws are at the level of the worker's elbow. If necessary, wooden ladders should be installed along the entire length of the working area. The distance between the axes of the vice must be at least 1m.
The jaws of the vise should be parallel, have a notch and provide a reliable clamping of the workpiece.
7.13. The condition of jacks used in operation (screw, rack and pinion, hydraulic) must comply with the requirements of the factory instructions. It is forbidden to load jacks in excess of their rated carrying capacity. Each jack must indicate: inventory number, carrying capacity and belonging to the workshop (site).
7.14. Hand-held power tools must comply with the requirements of GOST 12.2.013.0.
7.15. Hand-held power tools and portable lamps must be connected to a voltage of no more than 42 V. If it is impossible to connect the tool to a voltage of up to 42 V, it is allowed to use an electric tool with a voltage of up to 220 V means (rugs, dielectric gloves, etc.)
An electrified tool that is switched on for voltages above 42 V must be provided with personal protective equipment. Connection to the electrical network must be carried out using plug connections with an earthing contact.
7.16. Cables and electric wires for protection against breakage or abrasion of the shells must be inserted into the power tool and portable lamps through an elastic tube fixed in the body part and protruding outward for a length of at least five diameters.
7.17. Removal of parts designed to protect against touching moving and live parts should be impossible without the use of a tool, unless otherwise specified in the standards or specifications for this type of equipment.
7.18. Portable luminaires should have a protective net and a suspension hook attached to the handle. The live parts of the socket and lamp base must be inaccessible to touch.
7.19. Working bodies of hand tools (electric circular saws, electric grinders, electric grinders, etc.) must have protective covers.
7.20. When the power supply is interrupted or when there is a break in work, the power tool must be disconnected from the mains supply.
7.21. Stop working with the power tool if any faults are found.
7.22. Disassembly and repair of power tools, plug connections, wires is allowed only by electrical personnel. Do not transfer the power tool to another person.
7.23. Pneumatic tools (drilling machines, vibration chisels, wrenches, etc.) must comply with GOST 12.2.010 and be equipped with vibration damping devices. Starting devices must be easily and quickly actuated and must be air-tight when closed.
7.24. Hand-held pneumatic tools must be equipped with air exhaust mufflers, in addition, compressed air exhaust must not fall on the worker and contaminate his breathing zone.
7.25. Pneumatic hammers must be equipped with devices that prevent the striker from flying out.
7.26. Before connecting the hose to the air tool, it must be purged. In this case, it should be directed to the side where there are no people.
The connection of the hose to the pneumatic tool must be made using a union with intact edges and threads, nipples and clamping clamps. Connect the hose sections to each other with a metal tube, squeezing it over the hose with clamps. Do not fasten the hose with wire.
The hoses to the compressed air lines must be connected via valves. Do not connect hoses directly to the air line. When disconnecting the hose from the tool, first close the valve on the air line.
7.27. To check the pneumatic tool before work, turn it on for a short time at idle speed before installing the replacement tool.
7.28. The pneumatic tool can be turned on only when the replaceable tool (drill, chisel) is firmly pressed against the workpiece.
7.29. Air tool care and handling must comply with the instructions and operating rules developed by the manufacturer for each type of pneumatic tool.
Repair of pneumatic tools at the workplace is not allowed. Repair of pneumatic tools must be carried out centrally and in accordance with the technical instructions of the manufacturer.
After the repair, the vibration level of the hand tool should be checked, followed by a record in the passport.
7.30. Electric and pneumatic tools should only be issued to persons who have been instructed and know how to handle them.
7.31. Work with a faulty and worn tool is not allowed.
7.32. It is not allowed to install wheels intended for cutting off material on hand sanders.
7.32. When working with hand-held power and pneumatic tools weighing more than 10 kg, balance suspension or other devices must be used.
A hand tool is used to tighten the fasteners (bolts, nuts and screws). Below is a list of hand tools that no auto mechanic can do without. The specialized tool is not included in this list.
Did you have to borrow some instrument several times? So you need to buy it!
Most auto mechanics will not refuse their young colleague a request to sometimes borrow one or another tool. But if you need a tool several times already, buy it as soon as possible. Also, when returning a borrowed instrument, make sure it is clean and return it to the person from whom you borrowed it. This will build the trust of your colleagues.
- 1/4 '' Square Socket Set
- Ratchet 1/4-inch square drive collar
- 2 Inch Extension To Socket Heads With 1/4 Inch Connecting Square
- 6-inch socket extension with 1/4-inch connection square
- Collar with 1/4-inch connecting square
- Socket set with 3/8 '' connection square
- Togx socket set with 3/8 '' connection square
- 13/16 "Plug Socket, 3/8" Square Connector
- 5/8 '' Plug Socket, 3/8 '' Square Square Connector, Ratchet
- 1/2 Inch Socket Extension with 3/8 Inch Connecting Square
- 3 Inch Socket Extension with 3/8 Inch Connecting Square
- 6 '' socket extension with 3/8 '' connection square
- Eighteen '' socket extension with 3/8 '' connection square
- Universal Link to Socket Head with 3/8 '' Connecting Square
- 1/2-Inch Socket Set
- Ratchet 1/2-inch square drive collar
- Large breakaway crank with 1/2-inch connecting square
- 5 '' socket extension with 1/2 '' square
- Adapter 3/8 "to 1/4" Square
- 1/2 '' to 3/8 '' square adapter
- 3/8 "to 1/2" square adapter
- 3/8 "to 1" Rim Combination Wrench Set
- Combination wrench set with bore sizes from 10 mm to 19 mm
- Socket wrench set, hexagon socket, 1/16 "to 1/4" rim
- A set of wrenches for fasteners with an internal hexagon, with a bore size from 2 mm to 12 mm
- Socket, w / hex socket, 3/8 in.
- Box spanner 13 mm / 14 mm (split head with hexagonal mouth)
- Box spanner 15 mm / 17 mm (with split head with hexagonal mouth)
- 5/16 "/ 3/8" Box Wrench (Split Head with Hex Wrench)
- 7/16 "/ 1/2" Box Wrench (Split Head with Hex Head)
- 1/2 "/ 9/16" Box Wrench (Split Head with Hex Head)
- Side cutters
- Needle nose pliers
- Adjustable wrench (Swedish)
- Pliers-clips (with fixation)
- Expander for mounting / dismounting retaining rings
- Electrician's pliers, stripping or crimping
- Ball hammer
- Hammer with rubber head
- Hammer hammer (non-resilient impact)
- Set of five flat blade screwdrivers
- A set of four Phillips cross-head screwdrivers
- Screwdriver Togh No. 15
- Screwdriver Togh No. 20
- Houndstooth fork set (inch)
- Houndstooth fork set (metric)
- Personal file
- Kerner
- Drifts (different sizes)
- Chisel
- Multi-blade folding knife
- Spool Service Tool
- Cooling system tester
- Filter remover wrench (large)
- Filter remover wrench (smaller)
- Electrical tester
- Gauge Gauge Probe
- Scraper
- Mount
- Retractable Blade Knife
- Magnetic probe
- Torque wrench
- Micrometer for 0-1 inch range
- Micrometer for a range of 1-2 inches
Why has Philips become the common name for one type of screwdriver?
In 1936, inventor Henry M. Phillips patented the Phillips head screw. The Phillips slot on the head of this screw does not reach its edge, so the tip of the screwdriver is always fixed in the center of the screw head.
Figure: Safety glasses are the most essential accessory for any tool kit
Figure: Combination wrench. Both wrench heads are sized for the same bolt head size. Please note that the open end is angled towards the key handle to facilitate working in tight spaces
Figure: Three open-end wrenches of different qualities. The cheapest (left) is made of flimsy steel, thicker and rougher than a standard key (center). Shown on the right is a professional quality key (and the corresponding price)
Do not use such a tool
A young mechanic who went to work in a workshop, arriving at work on the first day, put his toolbox on the workbench. Another mechanic, seeing that it contained several adjustable wrenches along with a full set of quality tools, said: "Take this away from the eyes of the authorities." The movable jaws of an adjustable wrench often slide over the surface of the head of a bolt or nut, rounding off sharp edges, making it much more difficult to unwind such a damaged fastener.
Figure: A split-head box wrench with a hexagonal mouth. Also known under the names "water wrench", "locksmith wrench" or "pipe wrench". The jaw of this wrench covers most of the faces of the hexagonal profile of pipeline fittings and allows you to grip the part as tightly as possible without damaging it
Figure: Ring-head box wrench. Recommended for loosening and tightening bolts and nuts when a socket wrench cannot be used. The heads on both sides of the key are numbered differently. Such a wrench is preferable to an open-end wrench, because it covers the bolt head around the perimeter, and not only on both sides, like an open-end wrench.
Figure: The open-end wrench is a general purpose tool. The heads on both sides of the key have a different seating size (number). An open-end wrench should not be used to tighten "all the way" or to loosen a heavily tightened threaded connection due to the danger of it coming off the bolt head or nut
Figure: Flat blade screwdrivers (left) vary in length and blade thickness. The thickness of the tip should correspond to the width of the slot on the screw head. Phillips screwdrivers (right) differ in length and size of the "patch" at the tip of the tip. The smallest "patch" of the Philips screwdriver # 1, the Philips screwdriver # 2 (shown in the photo) - the most common - has a larger one. The bluest tip of the Phillips # 3 screwdriver is designed to work with the largest screws
Reception using grinding paste
Apply a small amount of grinding paste to the head of the bolt or screw. It "grabs" the tip of a screwdriver or other tool, not allowing it to "break" from the fastener. You can buy this paste in tubes at any auto parts store.
Figure: A variety of ticks. Combination pliers (far left) are often confused with water crimping pliers (second from left)
Figure: Ball hammers (top) commercially available vary in head weight (usually given in ounces). Below is a hammer with a soft (plastic) striker. The hammer head must always be softer (have a higher ductility) than the material being processed. To avoid damage when machining cast iron or steel engine parts, insert a block of wood or similar material between it and the steel-headed hammer.
Figure: Different types of socket wrench drives
Figure: Various options for socket extensions (extensions). The universal swivel extension, shown in the center (bottom), is convenient for working in tight spaces
Figure: Socket heads - dodecahedral, hexagonal and octagonal. It is better to use hex heads, as they cover all six facets of the head of a standard bolt or nut, allowing more force to be applied without breaking off the faces of the head
Figure: The hexagonal socket rests on all faces of the bolt or nut head. The twelve-sided head, if excessive force is applied, can "rip" the edges of the bolt or nut head
Figure: Sockets: standard twelve-sided short (left), articulated (center) and elongated (right). The last two are hex
Figure: Standard files. Never use a file without a handle
Figure: A mechanical collet (top) and a telescopic probe with a magnet at the end (bottom) are indispensable tools when you need to reach a small part that has fallen into a place where fingers cannot be reached
Figure: Stethoscope - with its help the mechanic "listens" to the engine, looking for a place from which a suspicious noise is coming
Figure: A typical sharpening machine. Pay attention to the protective screen installed on it. But while the screen does provide some eye protection, be sure to use protective goggles when working on this or any other machine.
Figure: Hacksaw. The teeth of the hacksaw blade should be oriented away from the saw handle. The thinner the material to be cut, the smaller the teeth of the hacksaw blade should be.
Figure: Drill (top) with spiral flutes (flutes) and reamer (bottom) with straight cutting edges
Figure: Drill cutting edge
Figure: Various punches (left) and chisel (right)
Figure: The striker of this chisel is riveted, and this is dangerous (a). If you hit such a chisel with a hammer, sharp pieces of metal can break off and injure you. When you find a tool with a riveted face, grind off the riveted part as shown in this photo. This will avoid the risk of injury (b)
Figure: Tapping with a hand die
Figure: Taps - roughing and finishing. Finishing taps are commonly used to clean or update existing threads in parts.
Figure: Dies are used to cut external threads on cylindrical rods, and taps are used to cut internal threads in holes
Figure: Installing the tap into the drilled hole. To obtain the required clearance in the thread, the hole diameter must exactly match the size of the tap. A drill of the corresponding diameter is called a threaded drill
Figure: An inexpensive mesh tray is convenient for organizing small parts
Figure: A good portable fluorescent lamp is essential for work. A fluorescent lamp does not heat up as much as an incandescent lamp, and will not cause a fire if accidentally splashed on it, unlike the unprotected incandescent lamps used in some emergency lamps
Figure: For a start, it is enough to have a set of only the most necessary tools. Experienced, highly trained auto mechanics spend thousands of dollars annually to buy tools, like the one assembled in this large (and expensive) toolbox.
Each master needs a tool to complete the work. It is difficult to hammer in a nail without a hammer, or tighten a bolt without a screwdriver. Today, there are more sophisticated devices that can significantly speed up the process.
Visit the D.I.S.O online store for a large selection of construction tools for a wide variety of jobs.
What is the tool
All existing construction tools can be divided into professional and home use. The first category includes powerful devices and devices, they have a longer service life and are more expensive. Household tools are affordable, but if used too intensively, they quickly fail.
Recently, a new class of construction tools has appeared - semi-professional. It occupies an intermediate position between a professional tool and household appliances. The semi-professional devices are of high quality, good power, and affordable price.
It makes no sense to list all the currently existing construction tools. According to official data from the State Standard, there are about 2,000 different categories of such devices.
First of all, they differ in purpose, that is, what type of work the tool is capable of performing. Further there is a division into manual, electric, powered by various fuels (diesel, gasoline, etc.), pneumatic and other types.
As an example, consider a screw and screwing methods. To fix it, you can use:
- a screwdriver, it will quite cope with the task, but you need to make an effort;
- manual screwdriver (brace), this device also works from muscle strength, but due to the design it allows to speed up the process;
- an electric screwdriver, such a device tightens the screws in a matter of seconds, and the master needs only one effort - to press the button.
If you plan to carry out one-time work, then you can use a hand tool, this was exactly what was used before the appearance of electrical analogs.
If the volume of work is large, then it is better to purchase a device that will speed up and facilitate this process. These tools are powered by an engine powered by electricity, diesel or gasoline, or compressed air.
New technology building tools:
Not every person has enough financial resources to hire a team of workers, and even more so an expensive contractor who will perform all the necessary work. Therefore, when renovating an apartment, its owner has to do everything himself. In such an undertaking, the key to success will be great experience, certain knowledge in the field of construction and, most importantly, multi-functional hand locksmith tools of high quality. It is important to know that the level of complexity of the operation performed depends on which professional kit must be used.
With a good tool, you can perform absolutely any operation as quickly and efficiently as possible. To make the right choice of hand tools, it is not enough to know only the approximate appearance, name and manufacturer.
Types of locksmith tools
Starting to get acquainted with the tools, you must first understand their types. There are generally accepted four groups in which certain devices are combined. This classification must be known exactly, since in case of specific work, you will first need to make measurements, and then markup and only then "cut off". So, let's study in more detail locksmith tools.
Group names:
1st group - measuring instruments.
2nd group - tools for marking.
Group 3 - general purpose devices.
4 group - fitting and assembly tools.
Hand tool selection criteria
First you need to figure out what you can do with this or that tool. Simply put, you should study all of its available functions well. Then you need to clarify for what maximum load this device is designed.
Craftsmen and less experienced workers make extensive use of professional locksmith tools. But in addition to their arsenal of modern electrical, pneumatic and petrol tools, there are hand-held devices. In addition, their assortment does not diminish at all and is even steadily expanding, which once again confirms the popularity of this category of tools.
When buying, you should pay attention, first of all, to those devices that are most familiar and familiar to an ordinary person. Typically, no work can be done without them. What kind of locksmith tools are, read below.
Variety of screwdrivers
Such a traditional and well-known screwdriver can be confidently considered the most used tool. Any repair and installation work without it is almost impossible to perform. The range of these instruments is currently very wide. Industrial production of screwdrivers has changed significantly in recent years. Thanks to the ability to choose the type you need, any job can be done much faster and easier.
The locksmith tools include several that differ in the type of blade, size and diameter:
Ruler
One of the most important fixtures is the ruler. She is an obligatory attribute that completes locksmith tools. Its price ranges from $ 100 and above, depending on the size and material used in manufacturing. The best quality are metal rulers. It is worth noting that such models have the most accurate division scale.
The following instruments can also be attributed to measuring instruments:
- probe - a set of steel plates designed to determine the width;
- vernier caliper is a ruler with movable rods, used to measure the outer, inner dimensions, as well as the depth of the hole;
- micrometer for delicate work, because with it can be accurately vymeryat the smallest distance;
- goniometer is a professional device used by qualified workers.
Clamping tool
Locksmith tools such as pliers, vices, clamps, etc. are essential for any work, even the smallest. For example, if you need to pull out a nail or fix an object, you cannot do without clamping devices. This type of tools belongs to the general purpose group.
Drank varieties
Every self-respecting craftsman should have at least several different hand saws on hand. The following are most often used in practice:
Cutting devices
Files of different sizes must be present in a set of locksmith tools. These are handheld cutters. However, for better work, a grinder, drill, perforator will come in handy. With their help, you can do quite complex manipulations in a relatively short time. For example, drill a hole to install the mount. This work can be done with a chisel, but it will take a lot of time and effort.
Such a familiar hammer
If we consider locksmith tools, undoubtedly, it is the hammer that is the most ancient of all hand tools known today. Every person knows its purpose, design and principle of operation. Standard hammer consists of two parts: a massive impact portion made of metal and the handle. The back of the striker is called the butt pad, and the front is the striker. Hammers are designed for a wide variety of work, so the shape of the strikers can be different, for example, rectangular or round.
The number of hand-held construction tools currently reaches more than two dozen. Among professional workers, sets of such brands as Matrix and Bosh (Germany), Force (Taiwan) are popular.
The carpentry tool is the most requested tool in the home workshop. This is due to the fact that with all the variety of modern innovations, wood remains the most important ornamental material, without which it is difficult to imagine everyday life. Any man has a set of carpentry tools who prefers to do many of the work to maintain the economy with his own hands. Carpenter's and locksmith's tools are a necessary accessory for a self-respecting owner, that is, for someone who is ready to do everything himself, and not run to the store when necessary.
The carpentry tool is a wide range of different tools for working wood and making various wood crafts and structures from wood parts. In urban conditions, it is difficult to talk about organizing a full-fledged carpentry workshop, but it is quite possible to organize a small corner for carpentry work. For the functioning of such a corner, you need a hand-made carpentry tool, an equipped place for carpentry work and devices (including home-made devices).
An important condition for workplace organization is to ensure the availability of tools and work safety. In order to properly store carpentry tools, you should take care of shelves and racks, where the carpenter's tools will be located in a certain order. A first aid kit should be available in the workplace to provide first aid in case of injury. Take care of the safety of the location of the electrical points.
Carpentry tools, taking into account their purpose, can be divided into several groups: measuring and marking; carpenter's percussion, sawing, chopping and drilling tools, as well as auxiliary tools. Various devices are important: clamping, supporting, etc. For ease of use, sets of carpentry tools are implemented, in which the main devices are collected.
Basic toolkit
Basic carpentry tools are used for sawing, processing and joining wooden parts. It can be used universally, or it can be designed for highly targeted applications.
Impact instrumentation.
Impact tool is used for joining workpieces, for gluing and wood processing, for example, with a chisel. The main representatives of this group:
- Joiner's hammer: unlike a conventional hammer, it has a flat impact side, but the opposite part is bifurcated in the form of a V (nailer).
- Mallet: a hammer made of wood to prevent damage to the surface of the part when hitting it.
- Doboinik: a conical metal rod for drowning a nail head.
- Ax: A versatile joiner's tool, in which the butt is used as a striking part, and a pointed edge for chopping and trimming wood.
- Teslo: A type of ax used for hollowing out depressions.
Sawing and cutting tools.
The sawing and cutting tool of the carpenter is used to cut wood pieces to size and to cut various shapes. Its main varieties:
- Saw: one-handed, two-handed, circular saw, band saw, butt saw - for different types of sawing.
- Bow Saw: Has a tensioned cutting blade for cutting in both directions and at an angle.
- Hacksaw for wood: hand saw with handle (shortened version of the hacksaw - reward).
- Jigsaw: allows you to cut a variety of shapes both outside and inside the workpiece.
- Carpenter's knife: it has several varieties, incl. oblique knife - for cutting grooves in a wooden thickness or for cutting veneer, its blade is cut with an inclination of 35-45º, and the thickness of the blade is 3.5-5 mm; meisel - a knife in the form of a chisel with a double-sided sharpening at an angle of 20-35º, used in the final processing of a wooden blank; a scalpel is a thin sharp knife.
Planing tools.
To prepare the surface you need:
Files of this type include files. They differ in shape and grain. They are used for finishing and surface grinding.
Drilling and chiselling tool.
If necessary, the formation of holes, grooves, grooves, the appropriate carpenter's tool is used. A drill is usually used to drill holes. Drilling tools such as a brace and a gimbal are often used in carpentry work. To use them, you need a set of drills of different diameters.
Chisels and chisels are used to gouge grooves and grooves. special chisels are used when necessary: \u200b\u200bkljukarzy - similar Buckets and intended for deep cutting; reyer - for rough impact on wood.
Measurement and marking tools
Carpentry work cannot be carried out efficiently without careful marking and appropriate measurements. For measurements, the following main carpentry tool is used: a square (in the form of perpendicular strips, and one has a ruler scale) - to check the perpendicularity; center finder (isosceles triangle); jerk (control of angles 45 ° and 135 °); malka (hinged planks) with the installation of any desired angle; joiner's meter; ruler; calipers; level or spirit level for checking horizontal or vertical surfaces; plumb line; roulette.
The following tools are used as a marking tool: joiner's compass with the ability to draw a circle up to 3.5 m; thicknessing gauge - for drawing forming straight lines parallel to the main line, and transferring dimensions from the drawing to the part (the thicknessing gauge has the form of a bar with strips equipped with teeth); comb - for the formation of spikes and corner joints; dragging - drawing lines to ensure good articulation of elements.
Assistive devices
For high-quality carpentry work, various standard or home-made devices are used. The most common are the following devices: clamps, clamps and clamp clamps, clamps for reliable gluing of elements, presses, wooden and metal vices, stops, pads with an emphasis, a miter box to facilitate cutting at different angles, servants to support long parts, a bottom to facilitate planing thin bars, sawing table when using a jigsaw, workbench, pliers for holding the part.