Tools and materials for the manufacture of amateur radio structures
Good afternoon, dear radio amateurs!
Welcome to the website ““
Today at beginner radio amateur school, We will consider the required minimum of tools and materials that a radio amateur needs to have for the manufacture of amateur radio structures.
I want to warn you right away that you don’t have to chase well-known brands and buy expensive things; you can always get by with what you already have at home or, if you need to buy something in addition, find a product of acceptable quality at a reasonable price. For example, a drill with a diameter of 1 mm in Chip and Dip stores costs 50 rubles per pair, and in a regular department store with a hardware department I buy these drills at a price of 7.5 rubles apiece - the profit is almost 3 times. Another example: a cordless screwdriver (you will see it in the picture below), which I use instead of a set of different screwdrivers, in the same store costs more than one thousand rubles, and in Kopeika stores it was once sold for about 300 rubles.
So, what is the minimum tool a radio amateur needs for normal operation:
First of all naturally needed soldering iron. If you have the means, then you can of course purchase a soldering station, but for normal operation any soldering iron with a power of 40-60 W will do, preferably with the ability to replace the nozzle. Such soldering irons are sold in stores at a price of 120-160 rubles. It is also advisable to have a stand for the soldering iron, it will guarantee that you will not burn anything unnecessary and will not drop it on your lap.
Second - definitely needed multimeter(or as they also say - tester). This device is necessary for measuring the resistance of resistors, current and the value of direct or alternating voltage. Multimeters can be digital (shown in the photo) and analog (in which instead of a digital scale there is a dial measuring head). It is now difficult to find an analog device, and it usually costs several times more than a digital device, so we will opt for a digital device. Digital multimeters costing 400-600 rubles allow you to make all the necessary measurements with sufficient accuracy, and in addition, almost all of them have several additional functions - measuring capacitance, checking diodes (transistors) and measuring the gain of bipolar transistors. In order for the device to serve for a long time, you must handle it carefully, follow some operating rules - first set the switch to the desired position (select what you need to measure - resistance, AC or DC current, AC or DC voltage value and expected results), check there whether the cords are plugged in (usually one common connector - COM (ground), two connectors for measuring current in milliamps and amperes, and one common connector for measuring voltage and resistance), and only then begin the measurement process.
Third, from ordinary mechanical tools, I would advise you to have small side cutters (for biting off the leads of parts on the board, wires, stripping wires of insulation), pliers and round nose pliers (useful for forming leads of parts and for other purposes). You also need to have a pair of screwdrivers - Phillips and flathead.
Fourth, since in the manufacture of printed circuit boards it is necessary to make many holes (usually from 0.7 mm to 1.5 mm in diameter) it is necessary mini drill. You can buy a mini drill ready-made in stores (prices range from 500 rubles on average to infinity) or make it yourself with the help of familiar turners.
It seems like we have sorted out the tool. What else do we need? See the photo below:
We still need materials for making printed circuit boards, printed circuit boards and soldering materials. We will mainly produce printed circuit boards based on single-sided foil fiberglass laminate with a thickness of 1.5 mm. To draw tracks on a printed circuit board we will use: for simple boards - waterproof markers, for complex ones - LUT - the so-called laser-iron technique (you can find out more in the “Technologies” section). Etching of boards can be carried out in three accessible and simple ways - a solution of ferric chloride, a solution of ammonium persulfate, or a solution of a mixture of copper sulfate and salt. To solder parts onto a board, in principle, it is enough to have solder and rosin.
The procedure for preparing a solution of copper sulfate and salt:
- in 500 ml (0.5 liters) of hot water (about 80 degrees) dissolve four tablespoons of table salt and 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate crushed into powder. The solution will turn dark green in color. It should be enough to remove 200 cm2 of foil. If the solution is kept for 2-3 weeks before use, its effectiveness will increase significantly. The board etching time is 3 hours or more. At a solution temperature of about 50 degrees, the etching intensity will increase (the solution can only be heated if the printed circuit board design is made with heat-resistant varnish).
Well, that seems to be all that a radio amateur needs to have at the initial stage. In the future, you yourself will acquire the tools that you consider necessary for your work, and various other materials.
If you have questions, or something is not clear and requires clarification, write in the comments, or even better, on the forum in the appropriate section.
This article is purely for informational purposes, here I will share my experience of using a tool called “Insulation Stripper”, one of my first tools, although Chinese, never ceases to amaze with its reliability, but not everything is so simple, you can use it successfully or not for its intended purpose, but first things first.
This is the state of the device after almost five years of intensive use:
It works like this: first you need to place the lead on a gap in the cutter that matches the diameter of the core, then pull the handles, while first the bent wire holders will securely fasten it, after which the upper cutter will lower onto the lower one, separating part of the insulation. But the vein remains untouched, since the latter will be located in the hole made from two chips on the incisors, there are several of them, on my tool there are four, for different diameters of the veins. After which the halves of the tool are moved apart and the cut piece of insulation is pulled back; if it is located on the edge, this usually happens, then the piece of insulation simply flies off to the side. At the same time, reaching the maximum angle of consumption of the halves, to speed up the process, they quickly converge, and at the same time, if the length of the wire being stripped is too short, the second half of the tool can bend it, but this is not critical.
But this is a standard application; due to the design features, I came up with a number of useful additional works. It happens that you need to quickly tin the wire, but it falls, tosses and turns constantly, you can, of course, use crocodile clamps... but then I stripped it and held it. And sometimes it happens that the payment is small, you need to hold it, but there is no third hand, or you are too lazy to go, or maybe there is no opportunity...
But it will work even without a log, or maybe you need to tin small things, but it’s in all directions, but there’s no third hand, or it’s inaccessible
In this article we will talk about a complete set of tools and accessories for soldering.
Basic list of necessary tools and materials for soldering
1.
Soldering iron - optimal for 220 Volts 40 - 60 Watts;
2.
Soldering iron stand;
3.
Carrying for a soldering iron and other electrical appliances;
4.
Desk lamp;
5.
Solder (any);
6.
Pine rosin – as one of the types of flux;
7.
Tweezers, or better yet two tweezers;
8.
Ethyl alcohol (jokes aside);
9.
Manicure tongs;
10.
Electrician's knife;
Soldering iron– the tool is individual, and even more so the shape of the soldering iron tip. An important role is played by preparing the soldering iron and its tips for work. For me, a straight sting with a wedge-shaped tip in the shape of a splitting ax is convenient. During soldering, the tip burns, so it is periodically cleaned with a file. In order for the tip to burn less, it is forged with a hammer, giving it the required shape, and then processed with a file.
The end of the soldering iron tip should be tinned. Since the tip is copper, and copper quickly oxidizes at high temperatures, the tip is usually tinned with a soldering iron that is underheated (when it has difficulty melting the solder). Having previously touched the rosin with the sting, rub it over the melting solder.
Desk lamp will help you avoid developing myopia. When working with small radio components, you have to strain your eyesight, and the brighter the lighting, the less strain your eyes will have. The optimal lamp is not with point light, but with distributed light. For example, a fluorescent lamp.
Solder- an alloy of tin and lead, the material is not fancy, whatever you buy will be the same. The only thing you need to know is that solders differ in melting point, and when you become a “gourmet” among “solders”, then this fact will become important to you, but for now, don’t worry.
Flux– this is a tumor (inflammation) of the gums next to the diseased tooth, and it is also a material that provides high-quality soldering of metals. Fluxes include: pine rosin, various soldering acids, soldering fat (oil), and other active chemical solutions.
The best flux is a solution of rosin in alcohol. How to cook it? Take a bottle of medicine, crumble rosin into it, add ethyl alcohol in a one-to-one ratio with rosin. Close the bottle, shake, and let the bottle sit. When the rosin is all dissolved, the flux is ready. To prevent the alcohol from evaporating, the vial must be sealed tightly. Soldering with this flux is a pleasure. Using a toothpick (match), apply a drop of this flux to the cleaned surface to be soldered, and take a drop of solder onto the soldering iron tip. When you touch the solder tip of the soldering iron to the soldered part, you will hear the hissing of alcohol, and the solder will spread in an even layer over the soldered surface. Tinning the ends of installation wires is also a pleasure. To do this, dip the end of the wire, stripped of insulation, into alcohol flux, and then use a soldering iron with a drop of solder on the tip.
Soldering acid - a combination of active chemicals, is an excellent flux for soldering everything except electronic circuits. This is due to the fact that soldering acids, for which there are many recipes, are electrically conductive. When soldering, evaporating from the temperature of the soldering iron, the acid enters various crevices and micropores of electronic boards. Therefore, even after cleaning the board, a short circuit may occur when testing it under current.
Remember one important rule: Any flux is a chemically active substance , therefore, after soldering, wipe the soldering areas with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol; this will not stop the acid, but it will prevent surface oxidation of conductors and elements.
Manicure tongs are used to bite off wires and shorten the excess length of leads of radio components.
Tools for installation (dismantling) work
In addition to working with a soldering iron, radio amateurs are often faced with installation work, which includes assembling (disassembling) radio devices. In this regard, any master must have tools for installation work.
1. Flat screwdrivers. The need may arise for screwdrivers of different sizes, of which the most common are those with tip widths of 1-2 mm (hourly), 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm;
2. Phillips screwdrivers. More often, the need arises for screwdrivers of two sizes with tip widths of 3 mm and 5 mm;
3. Pliers– with insulated handles;
4. Round nose pliers– rarely used, but if the need arises, you will regret not buying it earlier;
5. Narrow-nose pliers. Not all places can be reached with pliers;
6. Side cutters- take a bite whatever and wherever;
7. Small core- used to mark future holes;
8. Hammer. No comments;
9. Open-end wrenches, different and small in size - not everything can be unscrewed with pliers;
10. Cutter, made from a hacksaw blade for metal. Necessary for smooth cutting of textolite and getinaks boards, plastics, and other materials, for mechanical cleaning of solder joints. The cutter is made as follows: 1. The end of the blade breaks off at a slight angle; 2. A deep notch is made on the emery machine (sharpening machine) from the side of the obtuse angle of the blade fragment; 3. The end of the cutter is brought to an acute angle using a block; 4. A cambric is put on the canvas as a handle, or insulating tape is wound; The cutter is ready.
11. Various needle files– round, flat, with an acute angle (side);
12. Files– round, flat;
13. Diamond sanding plate(fine grinding stone) for sharpening small drills, sharpening a cutter (item 10) and other works;
14. Drill, better manual electric. Please note that the force of pressing the button changes the rotation speed (the button has a built-in thyristor controller);
15. Drills– with a diameter of 0.5...2 mm – for drilling holes in radio boards, with a diameter of 1.5...5 mm – for drilling holes in “various” places;
16. Metal ruler about 20 cm long;
17. Square with protractor- "just".
Other necessary materials and tools
1. Hacksaw for metal;
2. Bench vice;
3. Thermally conductive paste– to ensure good thermal contact of radio element housings on cooling radiators;
4. Varnish, maybe for nails– for drawing radio boards (during their manufacturing process);
5. Ferric chloride– for etching radio boards (during their manufacture);
6. Insulating tape;
7. Various adhesives: Moment glue, Epoxy glue, Dichloroethane - glue for plastic.
From the history of the discovery of electromagnetic waves it is clear that to experimentally confirm their existence, the talent and perseverance of the researcher was not enough; it also required the ability to tinker, plumbing skills, and more. Thus, Heinrich Hertz was fond of carpentry and turning during his school years. He even went to Sunday trade school. When, after some time, G. Hertz became a famous scientist, his old teacher, having learned about this, said: “It’s a pity! He would make an excellent turner." In order to repeat the research of G. Hertz, make an antenna, or design a good receiver, you need not only to know the principles of their operation, but also to have the skills to make the appropriate boards, perform installation, and be able to make a beautiful case.
Devices and tools
A radio amateur who assembles various radio-electronic devices performs various types of work. Of the total amount of work, the majority of work consists of electrical installation work, followed by mechanical work and only then equipment adjustment. For installation work, soldering irons of different power are used (Fig. 5.1), screwdrivers, pliers, side cutters, a knife, tweezers and scissors (Fig. 5.2). The power of an electric soldering iron for mounting small-sized electronic and radio devices is 30...40 W.
Rice. 5.1. Types of soldering irons for various radio engineering works:
a - 90 W.........for soldering large parts and large cross-section wires;
b - 45...50 W... for installation of lamp and television equipment;
c - 30...40 W.... for soldering small-sized equipment and structures on printed circuit boards
Rice. 5.2. Tools used for soldering electronic devices: wire cutters, tweezers, pliers
It is better if the kit includes a low-voltage soldering iron, which is powered from the network through a step-down isolation transformer with a grounded secondary winding. Such a soldering iron not only reduces the risk of overheating of a semiconductor device or printed circuit board, but also protects it from contact with mains voltage. When installing radio and television equipment on lamps, use a soldering iron with a power of 45...50 W. For soldering large parts and large diameter wires, use a 90 W soldering iron.
To adjust the circuits, you should use a screwdriver made of insulating material, as well as a special indicator stick, which has ferrite at one end and a piece of brass or copper at the other. The tool kit must include pliers, which are used to bend wires and lead parts when preparing them for installation during installation or in other cases. When installing transistor devices, you must use tweezers to avoid overheating of the parts. When dealing with electric current, you must always remember the danger of electric shock, so insulating tubes must be put on the metal handles of tools that are used for electrical work.
For mechanical work, a radio amateur must have a vice, various files, a hacksaw, a hammer, drills, dies, taps, as well as a ruler and a protractor. After finishing work, the files must be cleaned. They cannot be thrown or placed one on top of the other. In order to extend the service life of files, it is recommended to first use new files for filing only soft metals: copper, aluminum, and older files for steel and very old ones for cast iron. The core is used for marking massive metal parts, as well as for marking the centers of holes for drilling.
Drilling small holes is done using a drill and drills of different diameters. When cutting a thread, the tap is inserted into the tetrahedral hole of the driver. The tap must be directed vertically. In order for the chips to be short and easily separated, first make one turn along the thread, and then half a turn back, then again one turn along the thread, etc. In some cases, when cutting threads in soft metals and plastics, you can use a steel bolt with the required thread size. The end of the bolt at a distance of 2...3 mm must be cut into a cone and 3...4 cutting edges along the length of the bolt must be sawed with a triangular file.
In a radio amateur's workshop, it is necessary to have the simplest measuring device - an avometer (ampere-volt-ohmmeter), without which it is almost impossible to set up the equipment and check the operating mode. It is also advisable to have more complex instruments - an oscilloscope, an audio generator, a high-frequency generator, a tube voltmeter, etc. As a last resort, simple indicator devices can be used to check the operation of electrical circuits. Using probes, they check the passage of current in electrical circuits, open circuits in windings and short circuits in a capacitor.
Currently, in addition to traditional magnetoelectric devices, digital multimeters have also taken their permanent place in amateur radio laboratories. A wide range of digital multimeters, depending on the price, allows anyone interested in electronics to choose the right device. For amateur radio purposes, the Voltcrafl series digital multimeters provide the optimal price-to-feature ratio. All information in multimeters is displayed on the display. The main functions for a multimeter are measurements of direct and alternating voltage and current, resistance while simultaneously checking the circuit for short circuits and frequency. An important feature of these devices is the presence of automatic selection of the measurement range, that is, there is no need for mechanical switching during operation. Digital multimeters have a built-in logic tester that allows you to quickly test logic levels in static mode, based on a given supply voltage. Some types of devices have simple square-wave generators at several fixed frequencies for testing various electronic circuits. In addition, some models of devices allow you to measure capacitance, inductance, temperature using an external temperature sensor and check the health of the transistor. Another feature of modern universal instruments: almost all multimeters can be connected to a personal computer via a serial port. Some models, in addition to the main display, also have a display for indicating auxiliary values. Even listing some of the functional capabilities of multimeters speaks of their versatility and indispensability in amateur radio developments.
Carpentry and painting work occupy a relatively small place in the practice of a radio amateur. These include, for example, the manufacture and painting of a housing for a loudspeaker, a housing for a receiver, and more. Therefore, it is necessary to have simple carpentry tools - a saw, a plane, a jigsaw. For painting work you need to have small brushes. For processing wood, plastics and soft metals, glass sandpaper is used, and for hard metal alloys - corundum, carborundum, and emery. The larger the abrasive grains, the rougher the surface. The type of sanding paper can be determined by the color of the abrasive material: glass is transparent, emery is black or dark gray, carborundum is different shades of green. A radio amateur's desk can be of different designs, depending on the specific conditions and requirements of the amateur. You cannot do heavy work on the workbench - chopping metal or cutting boards.
The tool and work area must be kept clean. After finishing the work, the tool is put in the appropriate place. Never rush while working: a good master does everything quickly, but does not rush, his speed is the result of skill, experience and knowledge. Follow safety rules and do not work wearing a tie. Roll up your shirt sleeves if they are not cuffed.
Storage of radio components
Over time, in the process of designing various radio-electronic structures, a radio amateur accumulates many different radio components. When storing parts, you should follow some storage rules. This allows you to save parts without damage and greatly facilitates the search for the desired electronic component. To store small radio components, for example, MLT-0.125 resistors, you can use empty match boxes or other small containers. The boxes are glued into single sections and the names of the parts are written on them. A section usually contains about 60 pieces of boxes. At one end, or possibly at two, the denominations of the stored parts are signed (Fig. 5.3.a).
Convenient for storage is a lockable flat cardboard box, divided into sections, measuring 200x180x50 (the so-called closed flat cash register). In this case, it is better to use thin plywood to make such a cash register. The design turns out to be rigid and it is easier to make the cells more airtight (Fig. 5.3.6). The order of arrangement of parts in cells should be convenient, for example, 1st row - resistors with a nominal value of tens of ohms, 2nd row - with hundreds of ohms, etc. For ease of search. The name of the part written on whatman paper should be glued to the wall of the cell.
If the space allows, you can make a multi-row cash register out of plywood, a kind of small cabinet with drawers that have sections (Fig. 5.3.c). On each drawer you need to make inscriptions in accordance with the stored parts and provide for the presence of handles on them for pulling out.
You can also store small radio components in regular postal envelopes. Each envelope must be designed to store a certain denomination or type of radio components. Envelopes with parts can be stored in a cardboard shoe box or made into a box made of thin planks (Fig. 5.3.d).
To store fixed and variable resistors, small-sized electrolytic capacitors of the K50-6 type, you can adapt cardboard shields with appropriate holes (Fig. 5.3.e...g). The cut-out shield blanks should have bends on both sides to a certain height. This will prevent damage to parts when installing the shields on top of each other in the box.
Rice. 5.3. Methods for storing radio components
It is convenient to store transistors like KT803, KT805, P213, etc. on cardboard panels, for example, lids from a shoe box (Fig. 5.3.h). In the manufactured shields, holes are made for the terminals of the transistors. The transistors are covered with a cover on top, which is secured with tape. This will prevent the transistors from falling out when stored in the box. Such shields with parts can be stored without a box, simply by placing them on top of each other and tying them with a rope.
Powerful diodes, thyristors, transistors and other parts with rigid terminals can be stored on foam panels by simply sticking them in. Inscriptions are made on the shields corresponding to the names of the stored parts.
Various transparent medicine bottles are suitable for storing low-power diodes, zener diodes, LEDs, and transistors of the KT315 type. Strips of paper with the names of the types of stored parts are glued onto the bubbles (Fig. 5.3.i).
To store fasteners (screws, nuts, washers, etc.), an open or covered tabletop cash register is made. The material for its manufacture can be used tinned tin from cans (Fig. 5.3.ac).
Literature: V.M. Pestrikov. Encyclopedia of amateur radio.
Video of the channel “reviews of packages and homemade products from jakson” about useful tools for a radio amateur. They can greatly simplify and improve your hobby. You can buy all this in this Chinese store.
Convenient tool for soldering.
They can easily remove melted solder. A radio amateur will need this to solder parts even with multiple outputs, like microcircuits.
Side cutter.
Wire cutting tool. The main difference from simple wire cutters is a more convenient form for biting off even hard-to-reach leads.
Vise for printed circuit boards.
This is a good alternative for securing boards more tightly. Their cost is cheaper than a third party.
When working with small parts, it is convenient to use tweezers. Soviet tweezers are better than most modern ones. If this is not possible, you can purchase a good option with ceramic tips in China. The latter are insulators.
Magnetized tray.
When disassembling or repairing any equipment, we often come across a bunch of various small parts. For convenient storage of bolts and other small things, there is a special magnetized tray. Thanks to him, the radio amateur is unlikely to lose small details.
Multimeter.
It is unlikely that any radio amateur can do without a multimeter. Probably any radio amateur knows about its purpose and multifunctionality. The selection of multimeters in Chinese stores is wider than in the market in your city. The price is more reasonable, however, if you are willing to wait a little for delivery.
Insulation stripping tool - stripper.
Perhaps this tool is for the lazy and not at all mandatory. Why use it if you can easily remove the insulation the old fashioned way with your teeth. Well, seriously, you already know what it’s for.
Copper braid.
Another useful tool for removing solder. It is more efficient than a desoldering pump. The principle of its operation is very simple. Copper braiding, impregnated with flux or rosin, absorbs all the molten solder. But there is one significant drawback. Sooner or later it ends. This is what distinguishes the almost endless tin pump from it.
Scalpel.
Another useful tool. It is an alternative to a stationery knife. It's inexpensive. The kit includes an additional blade that can be easily changed.
Due to its compact size, it is more convenient to work with. Unlike most other cutting tools.
Hot glue gun.
When assembling homemade products, you often have to fasten parts together. One durable and practical method is to use hot melt glue. The sticks for this gun are cheaper than most other types of glue. However, they do not have an expiration date. This tool is easy to use. Order quality options that cost a little more. The cheapest glue guns quickly break down. Moreover, they pose a fire hazard.
Source: youtu.be/nRNoUpIZIhY
1. Soldering iron – 306 rubles.
This is one of the most popular soldering irons on Ali Express with a power of 60 watts. It has a regulator for this power from 200 to 450 degrees Celsius. Judging by the reviews, you can safely add plus 100 degrees to these indicators. The soldering iron comes with a stand. The soldering iron has protection against bending of the wire, which is 1.5 meters in length. The rubber band does not heat up and the soldering iron is comfortable to hold. The soldering iron tip is made of nickel-plated copper. This tip is durable and does not oxidize, as it is copper. The stings are not magnetic. The heart of this soldering iron is the ceramic heating element. The soldering iron heats up quite quickly. This model costs about 370 rubles. Ceramic analogues in Russia can be bought twice as expensive. It is worth noting that the ceramic element in these soldering irons is designed not for 220 Volts, but for 110, so in order for this soldering iron to serve for a long time, it is best to keep its power regulator at a minimum, that is, at 200 degrees. You can turn it on and warm it up at maximum, but as soon as it reaches operating temperature, you should turn the regulator to minimum. The operating temperature will be about 300 degrees. In general, for household needs, taking into account the price, the soldering iron is really good.
2. Desalter pump – 224 rubles.
This device is called a tin pump. This thing is quite inexpensive, but very effective for soldering radioelements, especially centipedes. It works on the principle of a pump, only in the opposite direction. In theory, its white nose should be able to withstand high temperatures. Testing has shown that the spout actually does not melt. Overall, this is a very useful thing that works as expected. It has a metal body and high suction power. The tool is quickly and easily disassembled for cleaning. An internal piston automatically cleans the solder with every use.
3. Antistatic tweezers – 447 rubles.
These are special antistatic tweezers. According to the seller, the tweezers are made of stainless steel. At first glance, the tweezers are really good. It has high strength, high hardness and wear resistance. It closes very accurately and is also not magnetic. The set includes 8 pieces of different lengths.
4. Solder - 81 rubles.
This solder is of quite decent quality. Solder 63 by 37, diameter 0.8 mm with two percent flux. Judging by the reviews, they can be used for soldering. Keep in mind that it is refractory. It is stated that its weight is 50 grams. If you unwind it and weigh it separately, the weight of the solder will be 30 grams, and the weight of the coil will be 20 grams. At first glance, it seems that there is a lot of solder here, but the coil has a double bottom. This was done not to deceive the buyer, but so that buyers could hide something here, for example, some radio parts. In fact, there are only two layers of solder wound here.
5. Flux RMA-223 – 138 rubles.
Flux RMA-223 is designed for desoldering, not soldering. The set includes 5 pieces. Sold in a 10 ml tube. Provides a smooth weld surface and good insulation. Non-toxic and of good workmanship.
6. Flux NC-559 – 242 rubles.
This flux is needed for soldering. Reviews about it are good. The flux is in special tubes for better preservation. A special pistol is sold for it, which is quite expensive. There is an option to use a ten cc syringe.
7. Braid – 83 rubles.
On Ali Express you can order such a copper braid to collect excess solder from printed circuit boards. It costs about one and a half dollars. The length is approximately one and a half meters and the width is 3 mm.
8. Third hand – 597 rubles.
This assistant was called “Third Hand” for its functionality and usefulness in use. Such a device costs about 600 rubles. This thing has a magnifying glass. The structure itself is hinged. The device has a weighty stand, which contains three little batteries (not included) so that you can turn on the backlight. There are also two LEDs on the body for use in dark rooms. The thing is very convenient and greatly facilitates the process of soldering and desoldering. There is an adjustable alligator clip. This is an ideal tool when a third hand is needed for work.
9. Heat-shrinkable tubes – 35 rubles.
You can order these heat-shrinkable tubes on the website. They are supplied in bags of 2 and 3 mm. This is a very convenient thing for insulating wires. The original diameter is approximately halved.
10. USB soldering iron – 275 rubles.
This is a five-volt portable soldering iron that can be powered by anything that has a USB connector. Works great, has a touch switch. Its trick is that it heats up very quickly, turns itself off and can be powered by a Power Bank or a cigarette lighter in a car. Of course, it cannot be considered as a main soldering iron, but as a soldering iron in a situation where there is no outlet, this is just the thing. Fast heating and cooling means you can work with it quickly and efficiently. Material of manufacture: plastic and metal. The total length of the soldering iron is 16 cm, the length of the handle is 11.5 cm. Presented in black. The kit includes a special protective cap. This is a good option for beginners and amateurs.
How to choose a soldering iron for radio making
A soldering iron is one of the main tools in everyday life when you need to connect wires or re-solder a radio component. First of all, you should start choosing based on such a parameter as power. The lowest-power soldering irons with a power of up to 10 watts are used in professional work and, as a rule, are used exclusively with microcircuits or overlay elements on the board. In general, a hairdryer is used to solder processors at home, but that’s a different story. In our case, the recommendation is to take a soldering iron with a power in the range of 25-60 watts. For soldering elements on a board, it is better to use a 25-watt one, for soldering wires with a cross-section of 1.5-4 mm2, it is more convenient to use a 60-watt one, it warms up the wire better, and therefore the soldering is more reliable.
The next thing you should pay attention to is the material from which the sting is made.
Here we can distinguish: a copper tip and a tip with a nickel coating (multi-alloy tips).
Copper tips have good thermal conductivity, which can be convenient for quick heating, but in certain situations it can lead to overheating of the part itself. At the initial stage, we carefully recommend using a copper tip. There are a lot of nuances that are easier to manage with a copper tip. In fact, when choosing a tip, you need to understand that what is important first of all is the shape and size of the tip. Copper can be easily cleaned without fear of damaging the coating. The main disadvantage of copper is, of course, wear and susceptibility to corrosion, but timely tinning and proper care extend the service life.
The next very important element is the handle. The main choice is between a plastic and wooden handle. For children, and even beginners at the first stage, we would recommend a wooden handle.
Very often the weight of the handle is important, or rather the soldering iron, when placed on the surface, should remain on the handle, and in no case fall over the tip (this applies to novice solders with low-power soldering irons, it is better not to take a powerful soldering iron yet), You yourself understand that this is fraught fire if you don't watch it in time.
If you have an idea in your head to take a soldering station with the ability to adjust power and temperature, then this is an excellent option, especially if you plan to regularly do soldering in the future. The question arises of price and regular maintenance of the soldering iron.
Of course, after purchasing a soldering iron, take the necessary accompanying materials: solder, a soldering iron stand, the surface on which to solder (you can just use a board, it’s convenient to use a 200x200 mm mica plate), FLUX for soldering copper, technical ammonia for cleaning.
After everything is prepared, it is necessary to proceed with the first heating and preparation of the soldering iron, but it is better to consider this separately. The operation and maintenance of a soldering iron is a separate topic and will be discussed later.
If you don’t know where to start, take an inexpensive low-power soldering iron, try soldering with it in different conditions (on the street, at a height, in a car, soldering large wires, soldering small wires, microcircuits, different metals) and you will understand that It is important for you first of all, after that you will go shopping more consciously.