Why does the freezer not turn off or freeze? The freezer in the refrigerator does not work. What should I do? The freezer is freezing.

Refrigerators and freezers (intended exclusively for freezing and not having a moderate cooling mode) are technologically unable to operate continuously.

The compressor unit is programmed for cyclic mode: as a rule, the electric motor runs for 15–20 minutes, then there is a break of 5–10 minutes. The execution of the program is monitored by a control unit consisting of a fairly primitive programmer, an electronic timer (in advanced models), and a temperature sensor. In addition, the starting device contains a so-called thermal protection relay. It monitors the current flowing through the motor winding and breaks the power circuit if it overheats. This is an emergency shutdown unit that is not related to the operating mode. That is, if the monitoring and control unit does not give the command for a cyclic shutdown, and the motor overheats, the power still disappears. The engine cannot start until the actuator cools down: the bimetallic plate.

Thus, in the absence of obvious malfunctions, the engine will in any case periodically rest. Either at the end of the cold injection cycle, or after the protective thermostat has tripped.

Causes of compressor cycle failure

If your freezer is running continuously, the motor will overheat because it has no means of cooling. The situation is aggravated by the fact that the electric motor is housed in a hermetically sealed housing, which does not even have a basic heat sink. And the compressor itself wears out much faster in this mode. If the cause of the cycle violation is not eliminated, the main unit of the refrigeration unit will fail. Repairs are comparable to the cost of the entire unit, especially if it is used.

Why doesn't my chest freezer turn off on time?

Important: Before rushing to troubleshoot, carefully monitor the operation of the unit for at least 30–40 minutes. During this time, a change of modes (work/rest) should occur at least once.

If the suspicions are confirmed, we will look into the situation.

First, let's look at the reasons that are not pure malfunctions.

If the freezer does not freeze when the compressor is running continuously, go through this list. All reasons are eliminated without calling a technician, since they are not malfunctions.

Real malfunctions that disrupt the cyclic operation of the freezer

• A serious mechanical problem is the condition of the insulation. There is insulation between the outer metal casing and the inner plastic walls. This can be polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, or other material with a high thermal insulation coefficient. If even a small amount of moisture gets into it, a zone is formed that ideally conducts heat (in our case, cold). Heat exchange occurs between the inner and outer walls, and all the frost from the inside falls on the outer walls. Of course, no compressor can cope with such a job: freezing the entire room in which the chest freezer is located. It is almost impossible to dry the insulation, unless it can be removed in the form of plates. Signs of the problem are constant perspiration on some areas of the outer wall of the freezer. Operational “repair” - cutting out the wet area (with a reserve for the dry zone), and pouring new thermal insulation material.
  Polyurethane foam is excellent.
• Refrigerant leak. If there is not enough freon in the system, during the standard freezing cycle, the compressor will not be able to provide the required temperature difference. Diagnostics using an ultraviolet lamp (a phosphorescent additive is added to freon). In addition, at the initial stage of the leak, a characteristic smell of freon is felt around the freezer. If the problem cannot be localized using primary signs, the chest freezer must be cleared of food, turn off the power and completely defrost the chamber. When you turn it on again, you will immediately understand whether there is refrigerant or not. Filling the system with your own hands is possible if you have the appropriate equipment and experience in performing such work.
  However, repairing the freezer yourself with such a breakdown can lead to failure of the compressor. It's better to call a specialist.
• Thermostat malfunction. The control unit does not receive information about reaching the required temperature. The controller “thinks” that the cycle is not over and does not give a command to turn off the electric motor. The breakdown can be easily fixed with your own hands: replacing the thermostat can be done in half an hour.
• A related problem is the failure of the protective element of the starting relay. With continuous operation, sooner or later the supply conductor will overheat. If the protective shutdown does not work, you need to check the bimetallic strip. If it is impossible to fix the breakdown, the element must be replaced. The operation is also performed independently.
  
• Clogged capillary tube in the condenser system. Because of this, the refrigerant will not circulate properly in the system and the freezer will not produce cold. As a result, the electric motor will operate continuously and at increased load. The cause of the malfunction is burning of the lubricant in the compressor. A special oil is present in the refrigerant and circulates with it through the system pipes. With spot overheating, solid slags are formed, which can clog the thin hole of the capillary throttle. This can be eliminated by flushing the system, evacuation, and subsequent refilling with new refrigerant (and oil).
• Compressor failure. The engine is running and it seems to you that the system is working properly. But the compressor pump does not drive freon through the pipes. There is no frost in the chamber; the thermostat does not signal the control unit to turn off. Do-it-yourself repairs are unlikely. In the event of such a malfunction, it is more profitable to buy a new (or serviceable used) compressor of similar performance.
• There may be a fault in the freezer control board. Self-diagnosis and repair are possible if you have an electrical diagram and experience working with electronics. You may need not only a multimeter, but also an oscilloscope.
• The fan in the chest freezer does not work. It forcibly cools the condenser radiator.
  If this does not happen, a sufficient amount of cold does not form inside the chamber, and the compressor begins to work continuously.

We have looked at the main reasons why the freezer does not turn off. This situation can arise not only in a separate unit for freezing food. If the main compartment of the refrigerator is working properly, but the freezer does not produce the required temperature, the symptoms will be the same. The control system will “drive” freon in a circle without interruption for a rest cycle.

Freezer malfunctions in two-chamber refrigerators

In addition to the reasons listed:

• If you have one compressor for two chambers (refrigerator and freezer), there is a valve in the overall system that switches freon between circuits. If it fails, half of the system will not work. The refrigerant will only provide cold to one part of the unit.
• In the version with two compressors, we diagnose the autonomous part of the system in which the problem was detected. Of course, each individual circuit has its own control system and thermostat.

Bottom line

Despite the fact that freezing units are complex devices, some faults can be fixed on your own. And half of the problems are not related to breakdowns at all: it is enough to follow the operating instructions and service the unit on time.

Video on the topic

The refrigerator works, but does not freeze. Happens. There are several reasons. Most often there is a freon leak. How will the gas pass through the copper (steel, aluminum) that forms the path? The seams crack at times. Fatal signs are invisible to the eye, molecules pass freely out. The pressure drops, the equipment ceases to perform its assigned functions. The reason is not the only one.

Refrigerator freon leak

The operating modes of the refrigerator are clearly calculated. First of all, we will ensure the correct freon pressure. Refueling is an art, the domain of masters. In auto repair, the refrigerant bottle is weighed with scales, filling as much as needed. Grams are counted. Refrigerators are not easy. They are replacing the old freon with a new one that is safe from the ozone layer and dangerous from a fire point of view. Isobutane provides better performance, less quantity is required. If a leak occurs, the concentration does not reach the explosive threshold.

The freon pressure is low - the compressor is running, controlled by the start-up relay. Frost will form poorly and the effect will be zero. Depends on the degree of neglect. The pressure indicator is monitored through a special process pipe used by repairmen. The detail is easy to spot: a clogged copper thing sticking out near the compressor. Bypassing the entrance (more precisely, two entrances), the freon is released, refilled, and flows out spontaneously. Service maintenance will require the purchase of a special kit. You need to perform the following operations:

1. Locate the leak location. It is difficult for the leak detector to detect a breakdown - compressed air is supplied into the system. First you need to make sure: the breakdown affects the freon circuit. One problem: it's rare that a leak detector can smell air. The models are purposefully sharpened to detect various types of freon. You'll have to use good old soap suds and similar folk remedies. After finishing refueling, check the finished system with a factory leak detector.
2. At first it was possible to localize the location of the leak - the problem can be corrected by replacing the area and soldering the seams. After you need to remove oxygen from the system, you will have to wait an additional 15 minutes, holding zero pressure inside with the compressor: the remaining water will gradually come out. Why is it important to follow the instructions below, believe me: a couple of drops of moisture can seriously disrupt the operation of the device. After an indefinite period of time, the problem of frost will again come to the forefront. Sensing zero pressure, the ice begins to evaporate. The process is called sublimation. The fact of the disappearance of the glacier was discovered a couple of centuries ago, and it began to be actively used by developing technology. The master, who values ​​his personal time, wants to start refueling right away, go ahead and pay for the part of the work done. Passing through the capillary tube, freon is released for a long time, the evaporation of ice and moisture is a long process. Take some time.
3. After draining the system, begin refueling. Car service centers use scales, and the refrigerator has an individual volume. When focusing on the pressure value, remember: it is customary to measure mass. It is recommended to remove excess from standard cans of isobutane (30 g) before refilling. The substance is harmless to the precious ozone layer and can be disposed of on the street. The remaining weight is equal to the filling weight. Determined using scales. We consider the approach outdated. Today, kitchen scales are accurate to 0.1 g, enough to fill a refrigerator with isobutane. Each model has a weight zero function available. We place the cylinder connected to the system on the scales without zeroing. Carefully wait, refueling, until the mass reaches the desired level. It is desirable that the elastic forces of the hose do not distort the measurements. And how to do this, decide for yourself, gentlemen!
4. The process of filling the system is followed by a leak detector check, after which the service pipes are pinched and sealed until next time. Forgot to mention: the filter drier needs to be changed. We'll tell you why it's necessary.

Filter drier and water: connection with the correct operating mode of the refrigerator

Ideally, there is no water or air inside the freon circuit. They get there randomly. Mainly during installation, they leak through microcracks. As a result, the regime is violated. If no big disaster happens from air ingress, efficiency drops, water will become a real disaster. That's what the filter drier is for inside. Catches a couple from a passing stream.

What happens when free water appears inside? The refrigerator works, does not freeze, the compressor may howl slightly. After the condenser, freon passes through a capillary tube, which the refrigerator needs to implement the expansion phase. At the outlet of the evaporator, the temperature is relatively low. The capillary tube is made of copper, but, firstly, it is long, so it is difficult to freeze evenly, and secondly, the flow comes, excuse the populism, from the warm regions where the compressor and condenser are. The water freezes, blocking the outlet and forming an ice plug. Liquid freon evaporates easily; ice, given the current state of affairs, will not be prone to sublimation. Therefore, the duct gradually becomes clogged, the refrigerator works, and does not produce frost.

A typical sign that water has entered the freon circuit. If the refrigerator is turned off and turned on again, the problem disappears until a new plug freezes. There is only one way out - call a specialist. You will have to replace the freon and, at the same time, the filter drier. How to do it is described above.

Typical refrigerator breakdowns

The refrigerator is equipped with special temperature sensors. Bimetallic plates, but new models may use thermistors. Then it depends on how many contours there are. If there is one, the settings are set for both cameras at once (according to some information, there are devices where the restriction is removed). In the case of two circuits, a situation is possible when the refrigerator freezes, but the freezer does not work, or, conversely, the freezer is frozen and the refrigerator is warm.

In the latter case, the reason is explained by the breakdown of one circuit. They may refuse:

1. Compressor. The motor burned out.
2. Compressor control circuit. Disease of inverter refrigerators.
3. If the start protection relay fails, the compressor will not turn on.
4. Freon may leak from the circuits.
5. The presence of water causes the same consequences as discussed above.
6. A failure of the thermostat or sensor causes an elevated temperature and the refrigerator freezes.
7. If the NoFrost system is present, the problem will be explained by a malfunction of the fan(s). Also (less likely) the air circulation channel may become clogged with ice. Considering that the supply often comes only from the bottom of the refrigerator compartment, the situation is possible if the drainage was forgotten to be cleaned on time.

In a single-circuit refrigerator, both chambers do not work at once. Caused by the above reasons. Refrigerators with combined NoFrost, where one evaporator works on both chambers at once, are very common. They have one freon circuit, but cooling can break down separately. Because there are either two fans or air flow regulators. However, there is another reason why the lower compartment may fail.

If the refrigerator compartment is located at the bottom, the moisture is removed directly through the channel that allows air to pass through; the branches simply separate at some stage. The drainage becomes clogged and ice gradually begins to accumulate because the air flows icy. Between the sections there is an evaporator, from which two channels are laid to each chamber:

• air intake;
• air supply.

A fan operates for each circuit; or there can be one fan, the air supply is regulated by dampers. The condenser collects frost due to the low temperature. That's why there is an opinion: the NoFrost system dries food. When you need to defrost the refrigerator, a special coil heats the condenser while the moisture drains. The tract of the lower chamber becomes clogged with ice if the drainage is clogged. In severe cases, there is a real ice age at the bottom. You will have to defrost the device manually, clean the drainage, and remove excess moisture.

What to do if the refrigerator does not freeze. We answer - wait for the master. Before coming, try to determine the reason and monitor the actions of the craftsman. Many people try to do it faster, but the quality suffers. There is nothing wrong with understanding the master's manipulations. Knowledge will be useful in other areas. The freon circuit of the car's air conditioning system is charged in the same way. There are specifics, often it is necessary to disinfect the condenser that goes into the cabin, the meaning is the same.

As a rule, users look into the freezer compartment of a refrigerator much less often than into the main compartment. And often, breakdowns in which the refrigerator compartment works, but the freezer does not freeze, are not noticed immediately, but only when a puddle of melted ice forms on the floor. So you noticed that your refrigerator cried a whole lot and began to work only half?

The situation, frankly speaking, is unpleasant and requires an urgent response. Especially if it’s warm outside and the safety of food is in question. But before you call the workshop, you need to make sure that the breakdown still occurs.

What to check first if the freezer in the refrigerator does not work?

Sometimes, the freezer does not freeze not because of breakdowns of the unit itself, but because of simple carelessness during operation. Before you give your refrigerator a “broken” verdict, be sure to look at the thermostat data. The optimal position, in which both the products are normal and there is no excessive load on the motor - between 3 and 4, which corresponds to minus 18-19 degrees Celsius. Perhaps, through negligence, you yourself turned the regulator to minimum, which is why there was a “thaw” in the freezer?

An equally common reason is ice freezing. If there is so much of it that the seal does not fit tightly, warm air enters the freezer. While the motor is “resting,” the ice melts and a puddle forms under the refrigerator. It is necessary to defrost the refrigerator and thoroughly wipe the rubber seal.

If the temperature mode is selected correctly and no ice blocks are detected, and the freezer still does not work, then some kind of problem has occurred.

Why doesn't the freezer work?

A number of breakdowns in which the freezer does not freeze have “additional” symptoms. We have systematized them into a table so that you can narrow down the range of possible problems yourself and find out the approximate cost of the upcoming repair.

Symptoms of a problem	Possible problem	Repair cost * **
In a two-compressor refrigerator the motor running the freezer turns on for 5-10 seconds and immediately turns off	Most likely, The freezer motor compressor has failed. As a rule, this occurs as a result of natural wear and tear during long-term operation of the unit, or due to excessive load on the motor (for example, you set the freezer thermostat to maximum minus in hot weather) The compressor needs to be replaced.	from 1500 rub.
The motor is running but takes long pauses(for refrigerators with electronic control).	Defective freezer air sensor. In this case, the control module does not receive information that the temperature in the freezer is below the set one and does not turn on the motor for cooling. The sensor needs to be replaced.	from 1500 rub.
The motor is running, but takes long pauses(for electromechanical refrigerators)	Out of orderthermostat (thermostat) of the freezer compartment. A faulty thermostat does not inform the “brain” of the refrigerator that it is warm in the freezer, so the control element does not switch the motor to cool the freezer (in single-compressor models) or does not turn on the motor at all (in double-compressor models). The thermostat needs to be replaced.	from 1500 rub.
The freezer freezes, but not hard enough	Sometimes, in single-compressor refrigerators with a no-frost system and a crying evaporator The switch valve fails. It gets stuck in the "fridge and freezer cool" position, resulting in not having enough power to cool the freezer. As a result, the freezer is warm. The failed unit needs to be replaced.	from 1500 rub.
Rust on the body in the area of ​​the freezer compartment and/or the freezer compartment froze weakly, but now does not freeze at all (for refrigerators with a freezer at the bottom)	Freon leaked through the steel circuit. This problem is typical for models with a freezer at the bottom and a “crying” evaporator in the refrigerator compartment. Blockages in the drainage system cause water to accumulate under the fruit and vegetable drawers and flow onto the top and front of the freezer. In this place there is a steel contour protected by plastic. If water finds microcracks and gets through the plastic onto the steel circuit, corrosion begins. Subsequently, this leads to the appearance of holes through which freon escapes. The system needs to be sealed and recharged with freon.	from 2500 rub.
The freezer did not work after defrosting the refrigerator, and during the defrosting process you chipped off the ice or artificially “warmed” the freezer	Might have happened circuit damage and freon leakage. Especially if you “helped” the refrigerator by chipping off ice or placing a bowl of hot water inside the freezer. Attention: please don't rush your refrigerator! Ice chipping or defrosting using heat is the surest way to “kill” modern units. Only old, Soviet models could withstand such operations! It is necessary to find the location of the damage, seal the system and recharge with refrigerant.	from 2500 rub.
The freezer does not work, there are no “additional symptoms”	Most likely there is a problem with the control module. In this case, the refrigerator is outwardly in perfect order, but the freezer does not freeze, since the “brain” of the unit does not give the command to cool the freezer. A flashing or complete replacement of the board is required.	from 3000 rub.

* The table shows the approximate cost. The technician will provide an accurate estimate for repairs after inspecting the refrigerator, taking into account the nature of the breakdown, as well as the manufacturer and model.

** Prices are indicated only for the work of the master, without taking into account the cost of spare parts.

Having looked at the prices for repairs, you will probably have the question “Why overpay the craftsmen, you can fix it yourself?” Alas, even if you were able to use our article to determine the reason why the freezer is not working, this does not mean that you can fix the problem yourself. High-quality repairs require experience and knowledge that only professional craftsmen have, as well as a considerable amount of diagnostic and repair equipment.

Do-it-yourself repairs often lead to even more serious, and as a result, more expensive breakdowns to fix. For example, if you install a thermostat with the wrong resistance, the refrigerator motor-compressor may “burn out,” the cost of replacing which will cost a larger amount. A master does not make the same mistakes as a beginner, and on top of that, all work is confirmed by a warranty card. That is why it is easier, cheaper, faster and more correct to call a refrigerator repair specialist:

7 (495) 215 – 14 – 41

7 (903) 722 – 17 – 03

In urgent cases, our specialists are ready to leave even on the day of your call. All work is carried out directly at the client’s home and after an hour or two your refrigerator will be in operation again, ready to freeze anything!

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Over time, problems happen with any technology. Proper operation and timely care will help extend the life of the devices. The refrigerator is no exception. Sometimes it happens that you can hear the compressor humming, the refrigerator works, but does not freeze well.

A refrigerator breakdown does not necessarily cause its operation to fail. The device may work properly and turn on in the specified mode, but there will be no cold in the freezers.

If the refrigerator works, but does not freeze at all, do not rush to call a technician. Perhaps the cause of the breakdown is not as complicated as you think. Follow the tips below to fix device problems.

Weak, poor or not freezing at all is the main failure of any refrigerator, but sometimes inattention becomes the cause of our concern. And in order not to waste money on calling a specialist, first conduct your own diagnostics.

Carry out initial self-diagnosis in 4 stages:

1. Make sure that your refrigerator is connected to the network, preferably directly, without extension cords.
2. Check how level it is and whether the door is tightly closed.
3. Make sure there is nothing preventing the door from closing, such as the handle of a frying pan or a ladle.
4. See if the “Defrost” button is accidentally pressed.

If after this check everything turned out to be in good order, then you can now begin to look for more serious reasons why your refrigerator is not freezing.

Too hot

If the kitchen is too hot and the freezer is set to maximum cooling, then most likely the compressor will not cope with the load. The first sign of this will be its continuous operation, which can be heard. It is necessary to set the freeze switch to the middle position based on its capabilities.

Damaged seal

Over time, the seal on the door may crack or peel off in certain areas, and then warm air will enter the inner chamber. After carefully examining it, you can conclude whether the seal needs to be replaced.

Frozen fan

This problem occurs in models with the No Frost system. When the fan freezes in such a refrigerator, the temperature regime of the chambers and the entire cooling system is disrupted. Since the fan usually operates in continuous mode, a complete stop can be determined by ear. The solution is simple: defrost the refrigerator completely for 12 hours.

Thermostat is defective

Does the engine “rest” for a long time, but the refrigerator compartment light remains on? These are signs of a malfunctioning thermostat. Its diagnosis is carried out using a multimeter and a screwdriver. It is located behind the temperature mode switch knob. Since some plastic parts will be removed, extreme care must be taken to maintain their integrity.

The thermostats have 6 contacts, each with its own marking. You should ring contacts “3” and “4” - if there is no circuit, then this part needs to be replaced.

Freon and refrigerant leak

Visible swelling of the wall or ice in the main refrigerator compartment indicates a refrigerant leak in the closed part of the refrigerator. It is necessary to recharge the system with freon and replace the evaporator. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to do this yourself - you will need to call a specialist.

Sometimes, after defrosting, when we turn on the refrigerator, it does not start to freeze. There is probably a refrigerant leak due to the use of mechanical substances. The impeller may have fallen off. Replacing it will restore the operation of the device.

Weak pressure

If the motor stops creating the necessary pressure, you will hear strange sounds and clicks that are not typical for a refrigerator. Such a breakdown can be eliminated by replacing the compressor.

Freezer works but doesn't freeze well

Very often, after 10 years of operation of the device, freon leaks. You need to call a specialist and replace the refrigerant. Clogging of the drainage system tubes may occur. Freon will not be able to circulate freely, and therefore will not cool well. You can try knocking on the tubes and tugging on them, but very carefully. Sometimes the reason the freezer fails to work lies in a faulty temperature sensor. After making a diagnosis and identifying the cause, you will need to replace the broken element.

Refrigerant leak

Sometimes, after defrosting, we turn on the device, but it does not freeze. There is probably a refrigerant leak due to the use of mechanical substances. The impeller may have fallen off. Replacing it will restore the operation of the device.

To avoid problems with the functioning of the refrigerator, you should adhere to the basic rules:

• When turning off the refrigerator, you must first turn off the cooling system and then disconnect the power. That is, set the temperature control knob to zero and only then pull the plug out of the socket.
• It is not recommended to turn on the device immediately after cleaning. It is advisable to let the device sit, ventilate, and dry, and only then can it be connected to the network.
• Do not place high temperature products into the unit. A temperature conflict will occur, which will adversely affect the operation of the device.
• When cleaning the refrigerator, it is not recommended to use chemical solutions. They will damage the enamel, connecting channels, and if they get inside, they will disrupt the operation of sensitive element systems and microcircuits.

We hope all of the above tips will help you eliminate minor troubles in the operation of your refrigerator.

Failure of the freezer, although the refrigerator is working properly - a rare type of breakdown. You may notice a problem with your freezer long after your food supplies have been damaged beyond repair. To prevent such surprises make it a habit to take a quick look at the condition of the refrigerator, when you take food from it. Before you call an expensive specialist to your home and start throwing away food emanating fluids, try taking a few simple steps to check the camera. In most cases, you will gain insight into the problem and perhaps figure out how to fix it yourself. Or - you will be prepared for the arrival of the master and save your and his time by explaining the essence of the breakdown.

Regardless of the type of refrigerator, first check its operating conditions - it doesn't have to be broken. When it is not set correctly or the thermostat(s) settings are lost, there is a high probability that the unit will “pull out” and not work as it should. Find instructions from him. In accordance with it, you check the level at which the body is set and other conditions that are specified. Check everything:

• Is the freezer turned on at all (someone could have turned it off by mistake),
• Is the socket, plug, cord working?
• be sure to pay attention to the rubber seal, the old seal loses its elasticity, crumbles and does not retain external heat at all;
• or maybe the freezer doesn’t want to start because it thinks it has already reached the desired temperature;
• try turning it on again after a while (you can skip this step if, for example, you returned from vacation and found a freezer full of “fragrant” missing products).

If these steps do not identify the problem - look at the thermostat. Do you need to remember whether your refrigerator is double-circuit? That is, Does the freezer have its own separate compressor, operating circuit with its own automation. Its breakdown has several consequences: the freezer will stop freezing, or, conversely, will work non-stop. Pay attention to the temperature indicator that is currently set on the regulator. Of course, it will not freeze unless it is “told” that it needs to maintain a negative temperature. Continuous operation has a similar reason - a minor malfunction in itself, or in the temperature sensor will lead to this. Therefore, carefully inspect the thermostat and sensor, they are the cause of most malfunctions. If the freezer does not work, try removing it, remembering the wiring diagram, and directly shorting those that lead to the compressor. If it malfunctions, you will hear the grunt of the motor and find out exactly the cause of the breakdown. To summarize, in a double-circuit refrigerator the problems will be similar to those in the refrigeration compartment: freon leakage, breakdown of the start-up relay, and other malfunctions. They are eliminated accordingly.

In old single-compartment refrigerators, the situation where the freezer works but the refrigerator does not is technically impossible. There, artificial cooling of the freezer is created, and the rest of the space is cooled passively. In Soviet models, the evaporator is the body of the freezer compartment. If the cavities inside it are clogged, then it will only partially cool, but this will also affect the operation of the plus compartment.

More modern models like No Frost have their own characteristics. The defrosting element may have failed, as a result of which air access to the evaporator is difficult. This malfunction is aggravated by freezing of the forced convection fan. First, just defrost it, remove all the ice crust, and then try again, hoping that the fan motor did not burn out from excessive load. Another reason is explained by the design of the case itself: the evaporator is located in the cavity between the rear wall of the case and the rear wall of the cooled chambers, and the fan drives cold air from this cavity inside. For this they use air ducts, they usually have a small cross-sectional area and are easily clogged with mucus or ice. Units with a freezer at the bottom are more susceptible to this “disease”. It is not difficult to fix this problem: use a hairdryer to defrost these channels, blow them out, and rinse them with hot water.

Attention! Be sure to unplug the refrigerator before working with its automation and electrical components. If the compressor uses an electric capacitor to start, it must be discharged, since the charge accumulated in it poses a serious danger to life.