Save on replacement: do-it-yourself LED lamp repair. Repair of LED lamps using examples Recommended procedure for troubleshooting and repair

Having problems with light sources, but you are in no hurry to buy new ones and do not want to call an electrician? It’s not a bad idea to try to repair LED lamps yourself, right? Moreover, it may not be so difficult. But you don't know where to start?

We will tell you how to detect the problem and repair the problem area - the article discusses the most common causes of breakdowns. The main thing is to correctly identify the area of ​​the problem and, using specialized tools, carefully eliminate the problem. A correctly restored product will continue to function.

To help the home handyman, we selected photographic materials and provided repair instructions with informative videos. With their help, even a master who does not have extensive experience in work of this kind can cope with the task.

Before you start repairing a damaged LED lamp, you need to find out what parts it consists of and where exactly to look for the fault.

The general structure of units of this type is approximately the same and includes such elements as:

• base;
• driver;
• circuit board;
• LEDs;
• radiator;
• optical elements.

Each part is very important and is responsible for a specific function. Having found the location of the problem, you can understand the level of its severity and begin to eliminate it.

Purpose and types of socles

The first option is valued more expensively and is more often used in branded products in the mid-range and luxury segments; the second option is quite cheap for manufacturers and is used in budget series products.

Circuit Board Features

The circuit board serves as a springboard for the placement of LEDs and other operating elements. Manufacturers use different materials to create it. The most popular board now is one made of anodized aluminum alloy.

On some circuit boards, for convenience, the positions for the LEDs are numbered. This helps when disassembling and repairing not to confuse the placement sequence

It exhibits maximum efficiency and absorbs up to 90% of thermal radiation arising during operation.

Nuances of the design of LED elements

Diodes that regenerate light flux come in several types. Most often in lamps there are SMD And COB chips. The more of them are located on the board, the more powerful the device is and the greater the amount of heat generated during operation.

When diodes of a certain type are installed on a lamp board, they can only be replaced with exactly the same ones. If you don’t have an analogue at hand, you will have to resolder all the chips so that they are the same

For normal operation and long service, it is necessary to ensure correct heat dissipation, and the radiator installed on the case is responsible for this.

Specifics of radiator operation

Excessive heating has a detrimental effect on the functioning of LEDs. The lack of a high-quality heat sink significantly reduces the period of operation of the lamp and ultimately leads to its combustion.

Some manufacturers save money and equip the device with several transverse or longitudinal holes, placing them throughout the body.

Budget manufacturers supply cheap plastic, glass and composite parts. Advanced brands go further and equip their LED devices with radiators made of metal with an anodized anti-corrosion coating.

Therefore, it is better to initially buy from the best materials. Although they will cost more, the user will protect himself from constant breakdowns.

Radiators built into the lamp body can be spiral, solid, plate, etc. Their thickness directly depends on the power of the diodes used in the lighting device

Some brands, mainly of Chinese origin, supply light bulbs with ceramic radiator elements.

Such products receive high-quality cooling, but, along with it, they partially lose structural strength and become more fragile compared to their metal counterparts.

A few words about optics

The bulk of LED lamps are necessarily equipped with a diffuser made of matte plastic. It helps concentrate the light flux at a certain angle and makes it more uniform.

The main advantage of the diffuser is that it is absolutely safe. For comparison, when a lamp burns out, a glass bulb can crack, break and injure people in the room.

Some models use lenses made from various modern and practical materials instead of diffusers. There are no breakdowns in these elements and they are not subject to repair.

Common causes of malfunctions

Failure of an LED lamp is often caused by incorrect operation and sudden voltage changes in the central power grid. In this case, the diode elements themselves remain operational, but the driver may deteriorate.

Factory defects are a very possible problem. Mostly “no-name” products are susceptible to it, however, this can also happen with branded products, although such cases are extremely rare and are usually identified at the purchase stage

Shocks and vibrations will not damage the diodes, but will have a very negative effect on the driver. The integrity of the structure and the accuracy of fit of the working elements to the board may be compromised.

If the lamp itself does not provide high-quality ventilation, the driver will overheat. As a result, this will have a bad effect on its functioning and cause breakdown.

The lamp will begin to flicker and blink sensitively, irritating the eye, when the current-limiting resistor deteriorates, and will completely stop burning if the capacitor fails.

All these moments are unpleasant, but there is no need to panic. You can fix the problem without much effort at home with your own hands.

An incorrectly organized electrical system in a house or apartment will have a bad effect on the LED element and will lead to its failure.

Plus, it will increase the load on the wiring and, possibly, create additional problems in the near future. Therefore, it is better to entrust its arrangement to professionals.

When purchasing a light bulb from a well-known brand at a low price, you should be careful. Products may be falsified and will not last as long as stated by the manufacturer. The repair will require financial costs, time, and is unlikely to justify itself in this case

During operation, a violation of the basic crystal structure of semiconductor diodes may occur in the lamp.

This problem is provoked by a reaction to an increase in the level of injected current density from the material from which the semiconductor is made.

When the soldering of the edges is carried out poorly, heat removal loses the necessary intensity and weakens. The conductor overheats, an overload occurs in the system and a short circuit disables the lamp.

All these little things are not fatal and can be repaired without costing time and money.

Preliminary device diagnostics

The LED module usually does not light up due to breaks in the general wiring, malfunctions in the switch system, lack of contact in the socket, or problems with the lamp itself.

To understand the issue, you need to conduct a preliminary diagnosis and understand where the problem is located.

When the lamp does not light up when the switch is activated, you need to unscrew it from the socket and screw in another one, not necessarily a diode one.

If the situation has changed and the light appears, then the lamp itself is faulty. No light coming in means there is a problem with the wiring.

The next step is to use a multimeter to find out whether there is voltage in the electrical circuit.

To do this, just lean the device against the cartridge part with the switch activated and look at the indicators. They must be on par 220 V. If the numbers are different, then a fault zone has been detected.

When the presence of the correct voltage is confirmed, but the lamp still does not light, you should check whether there is contact between the base and the socket antennae. If disturbances occur in this area, an arc occurs and carbon deposits form on the antenna elements.

With intensive use, constant overheating or insufficient initial thickness, the central and side contacts in the socket can become unusable and cause regular burnout of LED lamps

To remove it, you need to turn off the voltage, clean off the incorrect formations, and carefully bend the antennae themselves. After all these steps, you can screw it into a working lamp and check the result.

If there is no voltage at the contacts of the cartridge, it must be removed and checked to see if there is a phase on the wiring itself. If it is present when the switch is activated, the cartridge must be replaced.

When it is not there, you should pay close attention to the switch and look for the problem there.

If all the above-described elements, components and parts have confirmed their serviceability as a result of the test, it becomes absolutely clear that the problem is in the LED lamp.

How to disassemble the LED module?

To carry out repairs, the LED lamp will have to be disassembled. This procedure is not very difficult, but it requires accuracy, attention and some skill.

If you wish, you can film the entire process in step-by-step mode on your phone, so as not to confuse the order of actions later.

It is advisable to proceed with extreme caution. Not all internal elements of the device can be replaced, so it is extremely important not to damage them and keep them safe and sound.

This is especially true for such a vulnerable, but extremely important part as a printed circuit board.

Method #1 - unscrewing

An LED lamp is a rather fragile device that must be disassembled with extreme care and precision.. This does not require any significant effort, and there is no need to use sharp tools where there is a chance to do it manually.

To remove the diffuser dome, simply grab the light bulb by the edges with both hands and, using gentle rotational movements, separate the upper part from the body.

Usually this can be done easily, since the layer of fastening sealant is extremely thin and immediately reacts to movement and damage to integrity.

When trying to unscrew the dome part from the body, under no circumstances should you apply force. The plastic is fragile and can simply burst right under your hands if pressed hard.

Then you will have to solve the most difficult task - to separate the plate carrying the LEDs from the rest of the body. To do this, you will have to unscrew all the mounting bolts.

Since their heads are tiny, you will have to use special precision screwdrivers.

The next step is to remove the mounting plate from the radiator unit. An object with a flat, sharp edge, such as jewelry tweezers, will help you do this. They will be able to carefully pry the edge of the board and carefully remove it entirely.

Then you will have to carefully unsolder the contact areas of the power wire and finally separate the plate with diodes from the accompanying parts.

You will need to separate the radiator and base using delicate rotational movements and lay out all the components of the lamp on the table in front of you. After this, you can proceed directly to the repair.

Method #2 - heating with a hairdryer

The second option is most suitable for products with thick glass that are not suitable for direct contact with a tool such as a screwdriver. Here you will have to use a hair dryer and use it to heat the lamp body.

This is the only way to remove a glass fragment glued with a special compound from the cylindrical base.

Intense exposure to hot air will cause the objects being processed to expand, and the adhesive layer holding the glass will become elastic.

After these manipulations, the lamp will disintegrate into its component parts, even if the master does not make any effort to do so.

If you don't have a hairdryer at hand, you can go another way. To do this, you will need to take a solvent, an awl and a medical syringe with a needle. First, carefully and without pressing, run the awl along the edge of the dome diffuser.

Then inject the solvent with a syringe and wait a little. Just a couple of minutes will pass, the sealant will become pliable, and the dome will be able to be unscrewed without any physical effort. All further actions are no different from the method described above.

Are you having trouble taking the lamp apart? We have other different types of light bulbs on our website. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with them.

DIY LED replacement

Burnt-out LEDs are often the reason why a light bulb fails. Usually, after disassembly, you can immediately see which elements are damaged and require replacement. But there are often cases when at first glance all the diodes look normal.

Visually recognizing burnt-out LED elements is not difficult. As a rule, they differ from their working “brothers” in that they have noticeable black dots and tan marks

In this case, you will have to use a multimeter and ring each element separately to identify the faulty one. Or remove the elements that raise doubts from the board and test them using wires connected to a 12-volt power source.

When only one diode is damaged, you can simply short-circuit its outputs. If the luminaire uses a chain connection, this moment will not in any way affect the loss of functions of all other elements.

Old, faulty diodes will have to be unsoldered, then the board will have to be turned over and new chips soldered to the visible contact tracks.

The board always indicates such information as the type and size of the LED used. It is very important to replace faulty modules with similar ones so that the lamp continues to work as correctly as before the repair.

In some cases, you can replace the LED without using a soldering iron. To do this, the board will need to be warmed up well with a hair dryer. The soldering area will become soft and pliable, and the diode can be easily removed using ordinary tweezers.

You will need to install a working light source in a place that has not yet cooled down. When the board cools down well, it will be firmly fixed and will not move anywhere.

The main thing is to clearly remember the location of the element relative to the smaller and larger contacts and place the correct one in compliance with the polarity.

Solving driver problems

Driver problems are a fairly common problem with LED lamps. Most often, a resistor or capacitor burns in the driver.

Using the measuring instruments available to the home craftsman, it is quite problematic to determine the level of performance of this element. Therefore, it is recommended to simply replace it with a working one with similar parameters.

The reasons why a capacitor fails may be an initial manufacturing defect or regular overheating of the module as a result of poor-quality heat dissipation.

It is not always possible to find a suitable part in lighting stores. It is better to immediately go to the radio market or to a place where radio electronics are sold and try to find the thing you need there.

When it is purchased, you will need to dismantle the faulty unit and put a working element in its place.

To correctly disassemble and repair LED light bulbs, you do not need complex, expensive equipment. A minimal set of simple tools will help you troubleshoot problems.

A multimeter will allow you to check the presence of voltage in the circuit, make it possible to detect the presence of breaks and show how efficient the remaining parts of the circuit are.

A multimeter is a universal device designed to measure the main basic parameters of various electronic products. With its help you can find out what condition the LEDs of any LED product are in.

The heating temperature at the time of soldering should not exceed 260°. A simple soldering iron heats up more, so you need to wind a piece of copper wire with a cross-section of no more than 4 mm onto its tip in a tight spiral. The more you can lengthen the tip, the lower its operating temperature will be.

A soldering device with rosin and solder will be required to repair breaks found in the circuit and subsequently replace damaged parts and elements.

With a small screwdriver you can carefully separate the control elements from the lamp body, and with a thin, durable stationery knife you can delicately detach the parts from the circuit board.

Users also often encounter problems such as blinking light bulbs and burning lamps when the switch is off. What causes these malfunctions and how to eliminate them we discussed in our other articles:

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

How to eliminate typical failures of an LED light bulb with an E27 socket. Detailed instructions for disassembling the product, interesting practical tips on using available tools.

Tips on how to correctly remove the flask from the device without damaging it in the process.

An easy way to repair an ice-type light bulb without using a soldering iron. Instead of soldering, a special electrically conductive paste is used.

A complete description of the work on products of the Cosmos brand, which is owned by the KOSMOS Group, which controls about 25% of the domestic market for progressive and economical products for creating high-quality lighting.

How to fix an LED corn light bulb. Features of the disassembly process, design nuances and other educational points. A significant increase in the service life of the product after all work has been carried out.

An LED light bulb is a practical source of lighting. The only disadvantage of this product is the high price compared to other modules. True, LED devices are reliable and usually work out their full service life.

And if breakdowns suddenly occur during operation, most of them can be fixed with your own hands. Any home craftsman will have the necessary tools, and finding time for repair work will also not be difficult.

Do you know how to repair LED lamps yourself and can supplement the material we have presented with valuable recommendations? Write tips in the comments to the article, add unique photos - many beginners who have no experience in repairing lighting products will be grateful to you.

With all the known variety of modern lighting lamps, products based on ice LEDs have an undeniable advantage in comparison with all other types of lamps. So far, none of the models going on public sale can compete with them in terms of such indicators as efficiency and durability (the appearance of the LED lamp is shown in the figure below).

However, these samples of modern illuminators with LEDs also have certain disadvantages, expressed primarily in the high cost and low reliability of the emitters themselves. Due to defects in driver circuits, such lamps often fail; However, some users try to repair LED lamps on their own.

In order to help you repair the LED lamp yourself, we suggest exploring in detail the methods of restoring it, starting the study by examining the internal structure of this product.

Design

Self-repair of an LED lamp is only possible if the user has all the necessary technical skills. He must:

• Be able to work with an electronic circuit and understand the designations of the elements used in it;
• Learn how to handle an electric soldering iron and use all the necessary soldering elements (solder, flux, etc.) for their intended purpose;
• Know the techniques for dismantling products of this class;
• It is good to know the operating principle and characteristics of LED emitters, and also be able to connect them to electrical networks designed for a voltage of 220 Volts.

Note! At the same time, you should understand the design features of these devices, which will greatly facilitate the repair of 220-volt LED lamps if necessary.

The structure of a typical modern ice device can be seen in the photo below.

Typical LED lamps contain the following mandatory elements:

• Voltage converter (also called driver or electronic ballast);
• Housing with diffuser and protective glass;
• The ice-emitting diode itself (or a whole set of semiconductor elements connected according to a certain circuit).

In addition, the design of the lamp necessarily contains a base element, most often made like a regular fluorescent light bulb.

Troubleshooting and disassembly

Before disassembling the LED illuminator, you should visually inspect it and try to determine the reasons for the malfunction. All other things being equal, the same malfunctions can arise due to various malfunctions in the operation of the device.

The reason for its failure can be either insufficient heat removal from the place where the ice element is attached, or its failure due to power overload (driver malfunction) or natural aging.

If there is a suspicion that the emitting element itself (or one of several emitters) has burned out, traces of scorching and overheating must be visually visible on the damaged LED. After removing the protective glass and diffuser, access to the LED will be open (see figure).

In any case, the “suspicious” LED must first be partially dismantled, and then try to check it using one of the known methods. During the disassembly process, you must act very carefully, avoiding either overheating of the element itself with the soldering iron or its mechanical damage.

Such precautions are explained by the fact that the emitter itself may be in good working order, and the lack of glow is caused by a loss of voltage from the LED lamp driver.

When there is absolute confidence that the electronic circuit of the converter is damaged (if there is a burning smell from the area where the electronic ballasts are located, for example), we completely disassemble the light bulb until we gain access to all the parts. To do this, you need to remove the board from the case and carefully examine it for the presence of charred or cracked parts.

Upon completion of this procedure, replacement or repair of the driver must necessarily follow.

Checking the LED

Before properly checking an LED light bulb for serviceability, it is not necessary to completely unsolder it. To do this, just unsolder one conductor and try to ring using a tester or multimeter. Only after the measuring instruments show a breakdown of the semiconductor junction of the “suspicious” element can it be said with confidence that it has burned out.

Additional Information. Another way to check the light bulb after it has been partially disassembled involves applying a voltage of about 3.8-5.0 Volts to the contacts from an external power source.

When using this method, be sure to ensure that the polarity of the supplied voltage is observed.

Repair

Amateur repair of an LED lamp at home can only be carried out if you have the following mandatory tools:

• An electric soldering iron designed for a power of no more than 25 watts;
• Digital multimeter or tester, as well as a set of parts for repairs;
• Additional soldering iron accessories and consumables (solder, flux and rosin).

Note! Additional accessories are understood as special devices for desoldering parts from an electronic board. This could be a copper braid, a special suction device, or a thin medical needle, modified to remove solder from the contact pads.

The presence of all the specified devices and devices will allow you to quickly and efficiently eliminate the detected malfunction and, ultimately, repair the LED light bulb.

In general, its restoration comes down to the following operations:

• If you find a probably burnt-out LED (or several “non-working” elements), you should replace them with new parts that are completely similar to the burnt ones, both in brand and seat;
• After soldering is completed, turn on the lamp and check its functionality;
• If the driver malfunctions and there are burnt elements on it, it is best to replace this part of the product with a similar working electronic ballast board, removed from an old device with a burnt out light bulb (see photo below).

Explanation. Anyone who has repaired an electronic ballast board at least once knows how tedious and time-consuming this task is.

However, there are possible scenarios in which, for some reason, the simplest elements located in the rectifier part of the circuit (a diode bridge, for example) burn out in the electronic driver. In this case, even a novice radio amateur can easily repair the electronic ballast board on his own.

To fix it, you will need to remove the burnt-out rectifier diodes and replace them with new ones. If, after replacing them, the electronic conversion module does not produce the required voltage at the output, you should try to find other faulty elements or completely replace it with a new, working unit.

LED chandeliers

Users often ask questions about how to repair a chandelier made from a large number of LED lamps integrated into the product. When considering this issue, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points in the design of lighting fixtures.

Firstly, in a system assembled from many lighting bulbs (from 50 to 100 pieces), it becomes possible to simply remove one or more faulty LEDs without even replacing them with new ones. The general view of the chandelier is shown in the photo below.

Secondly, against the general light background, the disappearance of a pair or 3 elements, for example, is difficult to discern with the naked eye.

Helpful note. At some point, when the number of soldered diodes reaches a significant volume, their removal becomes quite noticeable. In this case, in place of previously dismantled parts, new products of the same brand and with the same standard size will have to be installed.

And finally, it should be noted that the circuit for connecting LEDs to the power supply circuit is practically no different from conventional light bulbs, and the converter electronic module (electronic ballast or ballast) has the same device.

Due to all of the above reasons, the repair of LED chandeliers should be understood as the same operations that were discussed earlier for conventional light bulbs. That is, the restoration of chandelier-type lamps in the general case comes down to identifying burnt-out elements or modules and then replacing them with known good products or parts.

At the end of the review of the capabilities and specifics of repairing LED lamps, I would like to note the following points:

• You should start restoring a burnt out lamp with your own hands only if you have complete confidence in your own abilities;
• To successfully solve the task, you must stock up on all the necessary tools and parts in advance;
• And finally, you should always keep in mind that if you fail to repair a light bulb or chandelier, as a last resort, you will have to turn to professionals for help.

We hope that after studying all the material discussed here, most users will be able to cope with the task on their own.

Video

Comparing the cost of LED lighting devices and incandescent light bulbs similar in basic characteristics, it becomes clear that the ratio is definitely not in favor of the former. So should you throw them away right away? For those who have a simple set of household radio/tools and a multimeter on hand, the author will tell you how to restore the functionality of most representatives of lighting devices of the “LED lamps” class at home, with your own hands.

Design of LED lamps

Schematic images of different models are presented, since it is not yet known which LED lamp the reader will have to repair with his own hands. But if you look closely, the main structural elements are identical; Some differences are only in execution.

Knowing what is connected to what, it is not difficult to disassemble and then reassemble the lamp.

Operating principle of LED devices

Without understanding this, meaningful (and therefore effective) repairs are impossible in principle. If only because it begins with troubleshooting, determining (“calculating”) the failed structural element. The circuits of LED lamps from different manufacturers may differ slightly, but there is practically no fundamental difference in their functioning.

Actually, there is nothing special about the operation of an LED lamp. From the diagrams it is clear that the industrial/voltage (~220/50) supplied to the input is converted to constant (rectified) and supplied to semiconductor devices (LEDs). As a result, they begin to glow.

Elements C and R, connected in parallel, form a chain designed to smooth out ripples and ensure self-discharge of the capacitance when the power is turned off. Another resistance, which occurs in some circuits, plays the role of a current limiter, since LEDs are very sensitive to such an electrical circuit parameter as I. Knowing this, it is not difficult to carry out a complete “diagnosis” of the lamp.

Recommended procedure for troubleshooting and repair

Checking the presence and rating of industrial voltage

The author understands that this point will seem meaningless to some, even somewhat naive, and so on. But practice shows that often the fault is not in the lamp itself, but in the lighting fixture (device) in which it is located. Before you start repairing it, you should first make sure that there is voltage on the cartridge contacts and their condition. Carbon deposits, a defect in the “tongue” or, for example, a poor connection in the electrical wiring - all this can be the reason that the lamp does not light up when turned on.

Such a check will only take a couple of minutes, but for some reason not everyone follows one of the fundamental rules for repairing any electrical device. Briefly, it can be formulated as follows: first make sure that there is food (and it is normal), and only then start “gutting”.

Disassembling the lamp

All LED models differ in their housing, internal “filling,” and design features. When disassembling an LED device (as well as any other device or mechanism), you must follow a certain order. It consists in the fact that all disconnected (unscrewed, unsoldered) parts are placed in a row, from left to right. But the lamp is assembled in the reverse order.

This technique is a guarantee that everything will be done correctly, and there will be no “extra parts that came from nowhere.” For those who are accustomed to lumping everything together, the author predicts some difficulties after completing the repair of the LED lamp.

You should start by dismantling the “dome”. When it is removed, the further algorithm of actions will become clear.

You need to remember (write down, sketch) exactly how the parts are attached to each other. Sometimes such carelessness turns into a problem when assembling an LED lamp.

Visual inspection

Any burnt (melted) part, some segment on the board is a clear sign of a malfunction. How to proceed? Those who know how to do spot soldering and have the appropriate tools solve the problem simply - by replacing the part. For example, if the board has darkened in the area of ​​the diode bridge, then “calculating” the faulty semiconductor is a simple task. The second option is to purchase a driver panel and replace it.

Checking radio components for serviceability

This applies to the capacitors and resistors included in the circuit. Capacitance leakage current is more difficult to determine, but... Resistances usually burn out, but sometimes a visually imperceptible malfunction occurs, such as an internal break in the conductive layer. The same thing is to “listen” with a measuring device.

Individual LEDs also fail

This is the most negative option. The fact is that for the lamp to work properly, they need to be changed on a one-to-one basis. Where can I get the initial data (according to the parameters of the device)? Plus, given their dense layout and the “delicacy” of the legs, it’s unlikely to be possible to solder several semiconductors without the appropriate experience. As a rule, if a large number of LEDs have failed, it is easier to buy a new LED lamp. A malfunction of 3-5 pieces “doesn’t make any difference.”

How to determine the integrity of an LED? An ordinary Krona battery, but through a resistor with a nominal value of about 150±50 Ohms. The fact is that it is 9 V, and for a semi-automatic product only 1.5 is required. When you touch the terminals of the device, it should (if it is working) light up.

Blinking (flashing) of an LED lamp is often the reason for replacing it with a new one. There is no need to rush - such a nuisance can be easily eliminated. About it .

Actually, that’s all that can be said about repairing LED lamps with your own hands. Considering that there is nothing particularly complicated about this, and only requires attentiveness and accuracy, you should not immediately throw away the device and spend money on a new one.

LED lamps have moved from luxury items to household appliances. Currently, many companies produce such light sources, since their manufacture does not require complex equipment, and the assembly scheme is simple. Now everyone can buy a miracle lighting source, but what to do if it suddenly stops working. It’s good if there is a warranty, but what if it ended or didn’t exist at all? Is it possible to repair LED lamps with your own hands? Let’s try to figure it out in today’s review.

LED lighting sources differ in power parameters and variety of configurations

Before deciding how to disassemble an LED lamp, you need to understand its structure. The design of this lighting source is not complicated: a light filter, a power board and a housing with a base.

Cheap products often use capacitors to limit voltage and current. The light bulb contains 50-60 LEDs, which form a series circuit. They form a light-emitting element.

The operating principle of the products is similar to the functioning of semiconductor diodes. In this case, the current moves only directly from the anode to the cathode. What contributes to the emergence of light flows in LEDs. The parts have little power, so the lamps are produced with many LEDs. To remove the unpleasant sensations from the produced rays, a phosphor is used, which eliminates this drawback. The device eliminates heating from spotlights, since luminous fluxes decrease with heat loss.

The driver in the design is used to supply voltage to the diode groups. They are used as a converter. Diode parts are small-sized semiconductors. The voltage is transferred to a special transformer, where the operating parameters are slightly slowed down. The output produces a direct current, which allows you to turn on the diodes. Installing an additional capacitor helps prevent voltage ripple.

LED lamps come in different types. They differ in the features of the device, as well as in the number of semiconductor parts.

Related article:

We’ll talk about this in more detail in the article to help you reduce costs when purchasing and during operation, and solve other practical problems.

Reasons for repairing LED lamps: device, electrical circuits

Before you start repairing LED lamps with your own hands, it is important to find out the reasons for their failure. The declared service life of lamps may not coincide with the actual lifespan. This is due to poor quality crystals.

There are the following reasons for malfunctions of lighting devices:

• Voltage drops do not greatly affect the operation of electrical parts; noticeable fluctuations in voltage readings can cause a malfunction;
• unsuitable lamp. If the wrong lamp is selected, the light source may overheat.
• light-emitting elements of poor quality contribute to the rapid failure of products;
• improper installation of the lighting system has a negative impact on electrical wiring;
• Strong vibrations and shocks can cause damage to such equipment.

To avoid having to repair the LED light bulb yourself, you need to minimize the impact of the listed factors on the lamp.

Note! If there are no visually detectable deformations, then you need to look for the cause of the breakdown using special devices: a multimeter and a tester.

Frequent problems arising with ice devices

It is often necessary to repair LED lamps yourself if there are problems with the capacitor. To carry out the test, it will have to be removed from the board. You can measure the element voltage with a multimeter. The same device checks the operating condition of the diodes.

In some cases, LED elements blink. This happens if the current-limiting capacitor is faulty. The cause of the breakdown may be a burnt-out emitter. The malfunction cannot be seen in all LEDs, so you will have to check every detail. A tester is used to find the problematic diode.

When making renovations, you can experiment with LED elements. For example, choose warm or cold light temperatures. Some devices do not have a smoothing capacitor and a rectifier. They can be installed using a soldering iron.

Advice! If only one LED burns out, you can close its contacts.

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High-tech lighting equipment allows you to create a comfortable indoor environment. Let's find out what information you need to know to choose such products.

How to repair an LED lamp with your own hands

If you are wondering how to repair a 220v LED lamp, then get acquainted with the standard repair schemes. The most common cause of failure is capacitor failure. A multimeter is used to check this part. If the capacitor burns out, it is replaced with a new one. Another common lamp malfunction is driver problems. When replacing this part, it is important to choose the appropriate option.

Current limiting resistors don't break often, but it does happen. You can check the malfunction using a multimeter in dial mode. If the deviation of the indicator is more than 20%, then the device is faulty.

LEDs often need to be replaced. They should be checked only after it is clear that everything is in order with the power source. To replace these parts you will need a soldering iron. All faulty elements are soldered off.

The cause of flickering of LED lighting sources is a poor-quality capacitor. To eliminate such a malfunction, it is worth purchasing a more powerful mechanism.

You can try to do your own repairs to LL-corn ice lamps (corn lamps).

Image	Stages of work
	If it is impossible to find the burnt-out LEDs on the case, then it is dismantled.
	Since the wires are short, the base is removed.
	To remove the base, the mounting points are drilled with a drill with a diameter of 1.5. Then the base is removed using a knife.
	Inside are drivers that power 43 LEDs. The heat shrink tube on the driver is cut off.
	After repair, the tube is put back on and pressed with a plastic tie.
	The breakdown occurred as a result of high voltage. The driver is connected to the socket.

Before any repair, be sure to check the presence of voltage. This turns on the required switch. If there is no voltage, the electrical wiring is checked and the fault is eliminated.

It is important to check the functionality of the light bulb, as well as the integrity of the fuses. You can ring not only integrity, but also the possible presence of a short circuit. The power supply and LEDs are also checked. LEDs can be tested using a battery. To do this, voltage is supplied to each LED through a resistor.

If a larger number of LED elements in the lamp have burned out, then you need to unsolder all the old ones, and then solder the working elements to the back side.

LED lamp repair (video)

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I've always said LEDs are the future. This is primarily due to their durability and energy savings. However, today, the manufacturing technology of these lamps is not yet perfect, the high price itself speaks of this, and it is too early to purchase this innovation. But no one listens, so they buy it, and then make claims - and lo and behold, it doesn’t work anymore.
But for me it was like a warm-up when a couple of defective lamps were placed on my table.

To tell the truth, this was the first time I looked at these lamps, made of thick glass; they seemed inseparable, which only confirmed my theory about their imperfection, and while I was thinking out loud about this, one of the listeners took a hairdryer and simply heated a glass cylinder and a glued circle of glass along the contour he came out of the hug. At high temperatures, the linear dimensions increase, and the glue becomes elastic. Two unsoldered LEDs immediately caught my eye (they were raised on one side, this happens when you fall). An electrolytic capacitor exploded in another lamp. But the reason is not only this, but the malfunction of one LED, which, having broken the circuit, thereby turned the voltage on the capacitor equal to 100 volts into a potential difference of 300 volts, which led to the explosion.

Here is the simplest, and therefore the most common, electrical circuit of LED lamps without transformers. Let’s start with it. But first, a little theory.

Capacitor C1 plays the role of a damping resistor, since it has resistance at the frequency of alternating current, but unlike a resistor, it does not dissipate heat and serves to reduce the voltage of the series circuit. Sometimes, instead of one capacitor, two are placed in parallel to achieve the required brightness. For reliable operation of the lamp, its operating voltage must be greater than 450 volts.

The diode bridge is used to convert alternating current into direct current.

Capacitor C2 smoothes out the ripple of the 100 Hz rectified bridge voltage. Its operating voltage must be more than 300 volts.

High-resistance resistors R1, R2, in parallel with capacitors C1 and C2, serve the purpose of electrical safety, to remove charges from these capacitors, so that they do not get shocked if they touch the base of a just removed lamp.

Low-resistance resistors R3, R4 are for protective purposes, limiting current surges, in some cases they act as fuses, overheating and failing, opening the power circuit in the event of a short circuit.

Of all the listed radio components, high-resistance resistors and rectifier bridges are the least likely to fail.

Grandfather for a turnip, grandmother for grandfather, etc.

As a rule, one of the LEDs of the matrix often fails due to a short circuit of capacitor C1. When this capacitor is short-circuited, the voltage and current on the LED matrix increases, and the bright glow of the lamp does not last long, until the weakest element of the matrix fails. A failed LED opens the circuit, and the voltage on capacitor C2 reaches 300 volts. Capacitor C2 (its operating voltage was 100 volts), exploding, short-circuits the power circuit and disables low-resistance resistors R3, R4, which instantly heat up from the extremely high current, and their conductive layer cracks, breaking the power circuit.

This is probably the worst fairy tale from my childhood, but the hint remains valid - it is not enough to find the reason for the lack of glow, it is also necessary to find the consequence.

Finding faulty components

So, the lamp is opened. The first thing I did was watch the editing carefully.

1. The simplest thing is that the wire has fallen off the lamp base. This has already happened with energy-saving lamps. The wire itself can be extended, and instead of a soldered or welded connection with an aluminum base, a threaded connection can be used.

2. I simply removed the swollen or burnt out electrolytic capacitor C2. For reliability, I used a capacitor with an operating voltage of more than 300 volts. The lamp will function without it.

3. The tester rang low-resistance resistors R3, R4, the readings should be in the range of 100 - 560 Ohms (101 - 561 designation of chip resistors). One of the resistors did not show its value, so I replaced it.

4. Now it’s the turn of capacitor C1. It is blocked by a protective resistor R1 from 100 kOhm (104) and above 510 kOhm, (514, the last digit of chip resistors implies the number of zeros), the value of which will be shown by an ohmmeter, which indicates the serviceability of the capacitor itself, at least it is not broken. This capacitor must be placed at a voltage of at least 450 volts. Sometimes, in order to reduce dimensions, lamp manufacturers install capacitors at a lower operating voltage, which leads to their failure.

5. Now you can connect the circuit to the network and use a tester to measure the DC voltage on capacitor C2 or on the conductive areas where it was located. There was no glow, and the constant voltage was 1.4 times greater than the alternating voltage of the 220 volt network and amounted to 308 volts, which indicated a break in the LED matrix, but the serviceability of the diode bridge.

6. I begin the search for a faulty LED with a visual inspection of the lamp disconnected from the network. Externally, such an element differs from others by a black dot on the surface of the crystal. So, the suspected element has been found, but to be sure, you can use a tester and compare the transition resistance of each LED in direct connection. It should be about 30 kOhm.

If all elements of the matrix show the same resistance, and when it is connected, there is no glow, and the constant voltage on capacitor C2 drops sharply to a few volts, then this indicates a malfunction of capacitor C1. Most likely he will be in a cliff.

I don’t recommend doing it the way I did it myself. Wrapping his free hand behind his back, with his other hand, using sharp tweezers near the switched-on lamp, he shorted the conductive pads of each LED in turn, until the entire matrix lights up. It’s so easy to find an element that causes the lamp to dim, flicker, or turn on for a short time. It is possible that the element itself will simply have poor contact with the conductive path due to poor soldering.

Fig.4.

There is another way to check the LED matrix (Fig. 4.). Using power from a container with two batteries with a total voltage of 3 volts or from one battery with the same voltage. Using a series-connected resistor R = 100 Ohm, I connect pins with a voltage of 3 volts in the appropriate polarity to each LED D without removing it from the circuit and make sure that it glows (it will glow only in direct connection).

Attention!

Progress does not stand still, and I came across an LED lamp in which the LEDs are presented in the form of two series-connected semiconductor crystals in one housing, which means that they will not light up at a voltage of 3 volts. To check, the same circuit is used (Fig. 4), only with a container for 4 batteries, that is, you need to have a voltage of 6 volts and a 100 Ohm resistor that limits the current.

Photo 3.

12 volt LED lamp.

Rice. 5 Connection diagram.

Theory again.

The diode bridge (D 1-D 4) on the lamp terminals makes it universal, which allows you to connect to a direct voltage without worrying about polarity reversal, in addition, it makes it possible to use the lamp with a low-voltage alternating voltage source with an interval of 6 to 20 volts (for constant with an interval from 8 to 30 volts).

The converter (chip CL 6807, R 1, R 2, L1, D 5) is responsible for such a large voltage spread. Its task is to limit the current as the voltage increases. In contrast to the limiting current of the resistor, this converter has a high efficiency = 95 percent, it also saves energy and, without generating excess heat, takes up less space than a resistor.

The LEDs themselves are D6 - D9.

Everything seems fine, but lamps fail. The main reason is low-quality LEDs (more precisely, poor-quality welding of the semiconductor crystal to the desoldering taps). In this scheme, the shutdown will be in pairs; the lamp will first flash signals. I find the faulty LED by connecting one by one with a 3-volt structure (Fig. 4) to each LED of the disconnected lamp. Thus, out of two lamps, you can restore one, leaving spare parts for better times (by the way, beautiful radiators for transistors).

But what if you couldn't fix the lamp? Dont be upset. You can make a lot of different crafts from a broken lamp.

Photo 5 Come see the light.