Every land owner dreams of getting a rich potato harvest. However, not everyone knows about the rules for planting in spring and caring for this crop, so the result does not always bring a large number of tasty and healthy root vegetables. So, in order to reap a high harvest, you need to choose the right plant variety, cultivate the soil and seedling material, and also choose the optimal time for planting and soil temperature. Let's talk about all these nuances in more detail.
Optimal conditions for planting potatoes
When selecting a time and place for planting potatoes, you need to take into account: soil composition, temperature conditions, characteristics of the selected variety, etc. Note that in different climatic zones, planting times may differ markedly.
Soil temperature
For potatoes, it is recommended to plant early so that the tubers are more resistant to fungal diseases. At the same time, weather conditions, soil type, condition of the planting material itself, etc. are no less important.
Planting can begin when, at a depth of 10-11 cm, the soil temperature is equal to 8-9 0 C. The potato root system begins to develop at a temperature of at least 7 0 C. If it is planted under colder conditions, then seedlings may not appear for a long time.
Humidity
The soil temperature is not as critical for planting potatoes as its humidity. Too wet soil can lead to damage to root crops by rhizoctonia and other diseases caused by bacteria.
If the soil moisture is more than 75%, then planting root crops is strictly not recommended.
Soil composition
Potatoes are a light-loving crop, so the area for planting them should not be darkened. The best option is loose and well-aerated fertile soil.
The best soils for potatoes are peat, soddy-podzolic, forest soil, as well as black soil.
The acidity level should be in the range of 5.-5-7.5 pH. Potatoes do not tolerate alkaline reactions in the soil well. It is also better to postpone planting if the soil is compacted and excessively moist. This condition will negatively affect the development of shoots and the quality of the root crops themselves.
Tuber condition
The selection of tubers for planting occurs in the fall after harvest. To do this, select small potatoes of 25 g each from the most productive bushes. Over the course of two weeks, it is greened up, and only then stored for winter storage. Such measures make it possible to give the seeds resistance to temperature changes.
To get an early harvest, the seed must be more than 70-80 g.
Germination
Germination of tubers usually begins 4-6 weeks before the intended planting. To do this, seed potatoes are removed from the basement and placed in shallow boxes in a sunny and warm place.
Pre-germination can significantly increase the germination of tubers.
You can additionally stimulate kidney growth in the following ways:
- Creating a small transverse incision. This procedure is done around the circumference of the tuber to evenly distribute its nutrients.
- Making crescent-shaped small cuts near each kidney.
- Sprouting potatoes in wet sawdust.
- Spraying the seed with water.
The vernalization procedure will allow for good seedlings. It involves simulating planting by covering the boxes and placing them in a cool room.
Soil treatment before planting
To obtain a good potato harvest, soil preparation must be done in the fall before the onset of frost. The preparation procedure can be carried out in two ways:
- Gentle processing with deep loosening. The planting area is dug up to a depth of 25-30 cm and completely cleared of weeds. At the same time, fertilizers are applied, which include compost (7 kg) with the addition of potassium sulfate (16 g) and (35 g).
- Application of green manure. Instead of digging, a plot of land is planted with green manure plants, which are mowed and covered with soil in the spring.
Spring soil preparation begins when the air temperature has warmed up to 10 0 C. It can also be done in two ways:
- Thorough loosening of the soil. The procedure is carried out using a pitchfork, moving the top layer of soil.
- Surface digging. The land, which was previously cultivated in the fall, is dug up to a depth of about 10 cm with the complete removal of weeds.
Improving soil quality
To plant potatoes and get a better harvest, you can increase the quality of the soil, or rather, its main indicators:
- Acidity level. In too acidic soil with a pH level of 4.5-5.5, it is recommended to add peat ash, calcium carbonate and bone meal. Read more about the use of bone meal as a fertilizer. With a pH of more than 7, additional oxidation of the soil is possible by adding manure or peat.
- Fertility degree. Using basic fertilizer makes the soil more attractive to earthworms. In the process of their activity, components useful for plants are produced.
- Soil air exchange. To improve aeration and drainage, perlite, compost and polymer crystals that retain water are added to the soil.
Fertilizers and care
Fertilizers depend on the condition and type of soil:
- For clay soil, organic fertilizers are suitable, which include compost, humus, peat and other components.
- For sandy soil, a mixture of peat and humus is used. It is also possible to apply mineral and organic fertilizers.
For swamp-peat soil, ordinary sawdust is well suited.
- Peat-bog soil can be enriched with compost, manure and sawdust. Clay flour and sand are used to improve its structure.
- Organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable for loamy and medium soil.
- sandy loam soil requires regular application of peat or compost.
Growing technology
Early potato varieties can be planted as early as the end of April, when warm temperature conditions have established. Most often, planting is done in the first half of May. At this time, the soil usually warms up to 7 0 C to a depth of 10-12 cm. If the area is waterlogged, a ridge 12-15 cm high is created during planting. In the case of soft soil, its size can be about 10 cm.
Ridges are not used if potatoes are planted in southern latitudes with sandy soil.
Since early potatoes have smaller and straighter stems than other varieties, they can be planted at a distance of 25 cm from each other, while for the rest this value is 30-35 cm. To simplify the process of planting root crops, you can use a walk-behind tractor. For more details about the technology of planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor, see.
Uniform growth of seedlings can be achieved if planting material is planted at the same depth. Depending on the type of soil and weather conditions, potatoes are planted in beds, ridges or evenly planted.
For loamy soils, planting is done in ridges to a depth of 7-10 cm. In this case, the tubers are well ventilated and warm is obtained. When planted deeply, germination time slows down, which negatively affects the condition of the shoots.
It is recommended to plant tubers in ridges on heavy loamy and peaty soils. This allows you to minimize flooding of the site and infection of seedlings with rhizoctonia. In arid climates, planting is done to a depth of no more than 10 cm, which reduces evaporation from the soil.
An important condition for growing potatoes is their planting density. For food, the optimal amount is 40-50 thousand bushes per 1 hectare, and for obtaining seed material the value increases to 60 thousand per 1 hectare.
Diseases and pests
- wireworm Beetle larvae live deep in the soil and attack root crops. It is impossible to determine their presence at the early stage of damage, but later the bushes are delayed in development and slowly wither. Read more about methods for removing wireworms from potato plots
The risk of root crops being damaged by wireworms can be reduced if legumes are planted between potato rows.
When nematodes are detected, a quarantine is usually imposed on a plot of land, which involves planting only crops that are resistant to these larvae
- Colorado beetle. The most common and dangerous pest that eats potato tubers and stems. Its large appetite leads to the death of entire fields, forcing it to travel long distances in search of new food. Get rid of pests with chemicals and regular collection of beetles and their larvae. It is also recommended to treat tubers and soil with insecticides before planting. Read more about the technology of processing potatoes against the Colorado potato beetle
- bear A fairly large omnivorous insect, similar in appearance to a cricket. Its habitat is the soil where the pest gnaws through root crops and potato roots. The pest can be controlled by organizing baits, as well as careful digging in the fall and spring;
- viral diseases. They are characterized by curling leaves, the presence of mottling and mosaics. Sick plants cannot be treated and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of infection;
- bacterial diseases. Bacterial rot, blackleg and other diseases cannot be treated. To prevent and prevent infection, diseased bushes are removed from the site, garden tools are processed, as well as places for storing crops;
- late blight The most common and dangerous disease that leads to rotting of root crops. As a preventive measure, bushes are treated with antifungal drugs.
If measures to prevent and combat potato rot are not taken, more than half of the entire crop may die.
Review of the best varieties
To date, a fairly large number of varieties have been bred, differing in yield, length of the growing season, taste and other characteristics. The best varieties that have gained great popularity include:
- . This is an early type of potato that has yellow oval tubers with dark yellow flesh. Its growing season lasts 80-85 days. The weight of one root crop reaches 100-130 g. Potatoes are popular due to their good presentation, resistance to transportation and long-term storage, as well as high taste. It is resistant to scab, late blight and potato cancer. With proper planting and care, you can achieve up to 4 tons per hectare;
- "Impala". An early variety with high yield. It has tall bushes (60-70 cm), yellow oval roots with light yellow flesh. Impala is characterized by resistance to many dangerous diseases: late blight, scab, cancer, nematode, etc. Potatoes ripen 75 days after planting. Productivity is 3.5 tons per 1 ha;
- "Tuleevsky". A mid-season variety originally from Siberia, characterized by large tubers and excellent taste. Large yellow tubers also have yellow flesh. The plant prefers high humidity and does not tolerate dry climates. The ripening period is 100-110 days. From 1 hectare of planted area you can get up to 5 tons of crop;
This is the best variety for making mashed potatoes, since potatoes are distinguished by their friability during heat treatment.
- "Luck". Early potatoes, which can be harvested in 60-70 days. It has low but dense bushes and spreading flowers. Root vegetables are oval in shape and large in size. The thin skin is light brown in color and has white flesh inside. One tuber reaches up to 100-110 g, one bush contains 10-15 units. The variety is resistant to viral diseases, cancer, rot and other dangerous diseases.
Video
For a clear example of planting potatoes, see
Conclusion
Potatoes are among the most common vegetable crops. With proper preparation, it can be grown in any type of soil. It is important to choose the right plant variety and provide it with appropriate growing conditions. They include temperature control, fertilization, watering and protection from diseases and pests. As an alternative to classic planting, you can consider growing. This technique allows you to create an optimal microclimate and prevent the appearance of pests.
Fried, boiled or baked potatoes are everyone's favorite dishes. Growing a good harvest of vegetables is not as easy as it seems. Preserving it until spring is even more difficult. If there is no special insulated place for laying, a harsh winter will not give the product a chance to survive. In order to reap a rich harvest in the spring and save seed material for later planting, you need to know what temperature the potatoes can withstand.
Tuber response to temperature
Having collected the harvest from their six acres, many summer residents who do not have cellars and basements take it to their apartments. It's good if there is a balcony. You can insulate it and try to fight the frost. It’s worse when it’s not there and it’s supposed to be stored in a warm room. At high temperature potatoes actively “breathe”. Starch is converted into sugar. The sweet substance is then oxidized, producing carbon dioxide and water, which quickly evaporates. The tubers dry out and become like large raisins.
If a vegetable regularly encounters negative temperatures, it is important to know how many degrees of frost it can withstand. Potatoes already at 0 °C begin to actively process starch into sugar; in this case, there is no evaporation process.
As a result, the vegetable becomes sweetish in taste. After direct exposure of the tubers to a more severe subzero temperature, the product completely loses its nutritional and taste properties. He simply rots. When determining the optimal conditions for long-term storage of potatoes, two factors play a role:
- positive temperature with a value of 2−3°C;
- relative air humidity from 80 to 95%.
If the average room temperature reaches +4°C, sprouts begin to appear on the tubers. It is advisable to remove them quickly, otherwise the harmful substance solanine will accumulate in the potatoes.
During the summer, potatoes live their entire lives. During the growing season, the plant blooms and forms mature root crops. The ripening time of potatoes varies somewhat among different varieties, which the gardener must pay attention to when planting. Let's figure out how many days it takes for the crop to ripen from the moment of planting.
Ripening time of potato varieties
Potatoes grow for a certain number of days from planting to harvesting. Typically, this period is longer for late-ripening varieties than for early-ripening ones.
It is recommended to plant those varieties that have time to ripen over the summer. For example, very early potatoes grow from thirty-five to fifty days. For late varieties to ripen, it takes at least four months from the moment of planting in open ground.
- productivity;
- taste qualities;
- disease resistance;
- keeping quality during storage.
It is better to choose planting material that suits the existing soil composition. This will allow you to get maximum yield with the least amount of effort and money.
Early ripening
The duration of the growing season for early potatoes is from 50 to 65 days. Growing such root crops allows you to get a new harvest in mid-summer. In a warm spring, planted seeds sprout already in the first ten days of May.
The advantage of early potatoes is that they are less likely to be affected by late blight, since by August the crop is already harvested. Thanks to the long storage period, the tubers remain unchanged for several months.
The disadvantage of early potatoes is the low percentage of starch content due to the lower dry matter content. In addition, it is more susceptible to various diseases and rarely produces high yields.
Early ripening varieties are:
- Alyona;
- Ariel;
- Zhukovsky early.
Potatoes are good for growing by residents of central Russia.
Mid-early
Mid-early varieties ripen longer than early ones. Usually from 65 to 80 days. Tubers develop better in fertile and warm soil with sufficient moisture. The most popular from this category are:
- Rowan;
- Scarlett;
- Romano;
- Ilyinsky.
Mid-season
The mid-season variety produces a harvest already in the first ten days of August. It is recommended to plant it in open ground in early May. High yields are achieved by protecting the tubers from fungal diseases that progress in the cold, wet summer.
Mid-season potato varieties have gained popularity among domestic summer residents. The tubers have a high starch fiber content, which gives them excellent taste.
The most popular:
- Dubrava;
- Sineglazka (Hannibal).
Mid-late
Mid-late potatoes ripen after flowering. Its growing season lasts up to four months, during which it is not recommended to dig up tubers. This period is optimal for the growth of root crops and the accumulation of the maximum amount of dry matter in them.
The following mid-late potato varieties are known:
- Zdabytak;
- Crane;
- Asterix.
The choice of gardeners is due to its excellent taste and shelf life.
Late ripening
A characteristic feature of late-ripening potatoes is the ability to retain valuable nutritional properties for a long time. These potatoes are usually dug in September, at least one hundred and twenty days after planting. It is recommended to plant seed material in the second and third ten days of May.
The crop is not affected by possible spring frosts, since they end by mid-May. Late planting determines the slow development of plants due to lack of moisture in the soil. Therefore, it is possible to use artificial irrigation.
The taste qualities are very pronounced, since root vegetables contain the highest percentage of dry content. You can safely expect a large harvest, since many organic compounds are stored in plants over a long growing season.
- Lorch;
- Saturn;
- Atlant.
Late potatoes are not afraid of many diseases, since it is resistant to their manifestations. It is recommended to plant this vegetable in southern soils to ensure full ripening of the tubers. When grown in midland soils, it is necessary to treat the bushes against late blight.
Factors affecting the rate of maturation
Amateur gardeners and professional farmers do not have exact planting and harvesting dates. The reason for this is the annually changing weather conditions. Therefore, no one can say exactly how many days remain before harvesting a given crop.
In most cases, people try to harvest crops in the most comfortable weather conditions close to the digging period. Usually, after planting, it takes several days to ripen, otherwise the taste of the dug up potatoes will not be the best. What prevents it from maturing on time:
- Early boarding. Large tubers grow even when planted early in the ground, if weather conditions do not interfere with this. Otherwise, the potatoes may freeze or rot in excessively wet soil.
- Water scarcity. When growing on a personal plot, it is necessary to create comfortable conditions for potatoes. In dry soils, the harvest is poor, since the root crops do not have enough water to grow.
- Poor soil fertilization. Whatever the prevailing weather conditions, mineral and folk fertilizers always help increase productivity. Timely feeding of plants speeds up the ripening process, even if the weather is not favorable. In cold summer conditions this is especially true. But it's important not to overdo it. Every gardener knows that excessive amounts of fertilizer in the soil leads to the accumulation of harmful nitrates in tubers, which can cause the development of cancer.
To obtain a good harvest, it is important to familiarize yourself with the agricultural technology of cultivating the crop before planting purchased seed material. Choosing the right methods will help avoid potato spoilage. It is allowed to use different planting dates; it is only important to bring them closer to the recommended sowing periods.
How to speed up the process
You can speed up the ripening of potatoes by senication (spraying the tops). Ripening and subsequent ripening of the tubers will be more active if the tops are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (0.5%) before digging. The vegetative upper parts will begin to dry out, and all their nutrients will go into the tubers. Such potatoes are not afraid of early digging. Spraying is carried out three weeks before harvest.
Such tubers can be stored for as long as during natural ripening. It is recommended to burn yellow potato stems after harvesting, thereby preventing the accumulation of dangerous compounds in the soil.
If the tops have already turned yellow and the harvest time has not yet arrived, you should start digging up the potatoes, as the tubers may begin to rot. This approach increases the shelf life of root crops in long winter conditions.
An empty garden requires fertilization. In autumn, this event is especially important, as it helps to create favorable conditions for the future harvest.
When the tops are mowed early, the root crops also ripen faster. Desiccation (spraying plants with special means) helps to speed up this process artificially.
Before using any method of accelerating the ripening of potatoes, you should consult with professional gardeners so as not to upset the fragile balance in nature with your actions.
Is it possible to save energy on planting potatoes and get a good harvest? Easily! - says the famous gardener Andrei Tumanov
http://www.forumhouse.tv/video/69/
Potatoes grow quite well in any climatic region. For a good potato harvest, looseness and breathability of the soil and normal water regime are important. ( discussion of the peculiarities of growing vegetable crops)
| Light | Potato is a light-loving plant. For uniform lighting, potato rows are oriented from north to south. |
| Ph soil acidity | 5.0-5.5. Although potatoes tolerate acidic soil, the yield is higher after liming. |
| Watering potatoes | Excess moisture immediately after planting a tuber prevents the formation of a deep root system. The maximum amount of water is consumed during the period of potato budding and flowering and before the tops die off (watering rate is 10 liters per 2 bushes). After abundant watering, the soil is loosened and mulch. 20 days before harvesting potatoes, watering is stopped. |
| Preparing for landing | Autumn digging of the soil is carried out to a depth of 30 cm and, better, with a turnover of the layer. For autumn digging, up to 300 kg of manure and 1 kg of ash are added per hundred square meters. Spring digging is carried out 4 cm smaller than autumn digging. Only high-quality tubers are selected for planting. Before planting, the tubers must be warmed up, germinated and greened in the sun. It is a good idea to treat the tubers with growth regulators (Epin, Zircon, Krezacin, Albit, Immunocytophyte, etc.). To stimulate bud germination, a deep transverse cut is made on the potato tuber (around the entire tuber), leaving the tissue in the center intact (1-2 cm). |
| Fertilizers | Potatoes love organic fertilizers Manure can be applied directly to the crop, which can double the potato yield, but this will increase the risk of potato scab. Manure can be applied to potatoes in two ways: by scattering it throughout the area or by placing it in furrows or holes (on the same day). You can use peat manure composts (3:1). On average, 5-10 kg of organic matter is added per 1 m². Instead of manure you can use green manure(green fertilizers), which will enrich the garden bed with organic matter, is equivalent to applying 200 kg of manure per hundred square meters. Mineral fertilizers for potatoes use ammonium nitrate (before planting 1 kg per hundred square meters) or urea (1 kg per hundred square meters before planting), double superphosphate (1 kg per hundred square meters in spring or autumn), potassium sulfate (2 kg per hundred square meters in spring or autumn) , angry at (5 kg per hundred square meters). From complex mineral fertilizers, nitrophoska (5 kg per hundred square meters) or nitroammophoska (3 kg per hundred square meters) is applied to potatoes before spring digging. Light sandy soils need magnesium, which is added in the form of magnesium sulfate (at the rate of 80 g) or dolomite flour - 20 g per 1 m². When the height of potato seedlings is 10-12 cm, fertilizing is carried out with nitrogen fertilizers; potassium fertilizers are fed during the first hilling. Liquid fertilizers are prepared from 30 g of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, 60 g of phosphorus, dissolving them in 10 liters of water. Water the soil around the potato bushes with the solution. If there is growth retardation, you can feed mullein infusions or bird droppings. Liquid consumption is 1-2 liters per bush. Late potato varieties are fed twice a season. When fertilizing, you need to avoid getting the solution on the green parts of the potato bush. Feed ash potatoes are needed at the rate of 20 g per bush. Good results are achieved by foliar feeding with macro and microelements. For 10 liters of water, 40 g of ammonium nitrate, 200 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium salt and 2 g of copper sulfate (solution for spraying one hundred square meters). The solution is infused for 4 hours, stirring occasionally, and the potato plants are sprayed in the morning or evening in dry weather. At the end of flowering, foliar feeding of potatoes with phosphorus fertilizers is effective, which accelerates the outflow of nutrients to the tuber (1 x superphosphate per 10 liters of water). Before the potato blooms, tubers form on it; after flowering, new tubers will no longer appear, but those that have formed will increase in weight. Potatoes do not like chlorine. With excessive doses of nitrogen and calcium, scab appears on potatoes. It is better to add nitrogen simultaneously with potassium, and limit the use of ash. Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers increase the resistance of potatoes to diseases. In places of distribution late blight, rhizoctoniosis, bacterial diseases, scab, the doses of potassium (2 times) and phosphorus (1.5 times) should be increased. |
| Good predecessors | Good predecessors of potatoes can be green manure, beets, cabbage, cucumber, greens. |
| Bad Predecessors | Potatoes are not recommended to be planted after plants nightshade family |
| Potato planting time | Potatoes are planted in late April - early May (when leaves appear on the birch tree). For planting, use healthy tubers aged in the light (30-45 days at 15 ° C), 50-80 g each; if the tubers are larger, they can be cut into pieces after germination, but they are not suitable for early planting, because may rot. The planting material is ready if thick sprouts 1-1.5 cm long have formed on the tubers. If at this point the soil is not yet ready for planting potatoes, the sprouted tubers are transferred to a cool room. If tubers of unknown origin are used for planting, it is better to treat them for possible infection. To do this, they are washed from adhering earth and kept in a 1% solution of boric acid for 20 minutes. Or you can warm the tubers in water at a temperature of 40-43 ° C for 20 minutes. Potatoes are planted when the soil is sufficiently dry, otherwise air access to the tubers will be difficult. The optimal temperature for growing potatoes is +15 °C. |
| Potato tuber planting scheme | Potatoes are planted in rows according to the following pattern: 25-30x80 cm. The tops of early potatoes are not so thick and they can be planted thicker than late potatoes. Experienced gardeners have noticed that joint planting of early and late potato varieties has a beneficial effect on each other (early varieties “spur” the ripening of later ones). For the best illumination of potato bushes by the sun, the rows are oriented from north to south. Some people place a bean seed in each hole with a tuber to repel underground pests. The disadvantages of such plantings are as follows: beans develop earlier than potatoes, so they take away potassium from the tuber and shade the young tops. The root system of beans enriches the soil with nitrogen; its excess can provoke the growth of potato tops to the detriment of the formation of tubers. It is enough to plant beans around the perimeter of the potato field. |
| Tuber planting depth | The yield of potatoes depends on the depth of planting. The tubers are placed at a depth of 2-3 cm, which ensures their better heating and germination. The emerging shoots are completely covered with soil. A week later, the same operation is repeated. As a result, stolons are formed on the covered part of the stem, which increases the potato yield. (planting depth - the distance from the top of the tuber to the soil surface) If the planting time has been missed, the tubers are buried another 2-3 cm (especially during dry periods). |
| Problems | Potato diseases and pests: late blight, rhizoctonia blight, macrosporiosis, common scab, potato cancer, dry rot, carrot rot, phomosis, viral diseases, brown leaf spot, leaf bronzing, glandular spot, Colorado potato beetle, wireworm (click beetle larvae). In the fight against the Colorado potato beetle, bait bushes are effective, which are planted in several places in the potato field in early May before planting the tubers. By the time the main shoots appear, a large mass of Colorado potato beetles will have already “chosen” the formed bait potato plants, from where they can be easily removed along with the bush. Treatment of plants with insecticides containing the active substance - imidacloprid (Aktar, Confidor, Prestige, etc.) is effective. Many plants in joint plantings are able to take care of their neighbors and protect their. From late blight and Alternaria blight, you need to spray the potato tops 2-3 times per season with Fitosporin-M or Bordeaux mixture or Ordan or Kurzat. |
| Care and cultivation of potatoes | Caring for potatoes consists of fertilizing with fertilizers, combating weeds, hilling. When hilling potatoes, it is important not to damage the roots. The first hilling is carried out at a seedling height of 20 cm, while covering the entire lower part of the stem up to the leaves with soil. The second hilling is carried out when the soil is waterlogged to provide air access to the tubers. When there is a threat of frost, potato seedlings are covered with earth in a layer of 2-3 cm, which will help them withstand even -5 °C; if the seedlings are already quite large, they are first bent down and covered with earth (there is no need to dig up small seedlings later). Sprinkling will protect against light frosts. Flowers (or better yet, buds) of potatoes need to be torn off so that the plant does not waste energy on producing seeds. |
| Potato varieties | Potato varieties are divided into early (ripening period after planting 50-60 days): Belorussky early, Vesna, Vorotynsky early, Vyatka, Priekulsky early, Prigozhiy 2, Ural early, Falensky, Rosalind, Dolphin, Mid-early potato varieties (ripening time after planting 60-80 days): Arina, Detskoselsky, Domodedovsky, Zorka, Iskra, Kolpashevsky, Nevsky, Prizer, Sudarynya, Dina. Mid-season potato varieties (ripening time after planting 80-100 days): Gatchinsky, Kameraz, Ogonyok, Stolovy 19, Yantarny, Jelly, Dubrava, Zhivitsa. Medium-late potato varieties (ripening time after planting 80-100 days): Turquoise, Berlichingen, Loshitsky, Sulev, Polonaise, Vetraz. Late potato varieties (ripening time after planting is 120 days or more): Olev, Temp, Shpekula. Potato varieties resistant to nematodes: Dolphin, Vetraz, Dina, Dubrava, Zhivitsa |
| Potato harvesting | The greatest yield is observed when the tops naturally dry out (one day of the growing season brings 8 kg of potatoes from 1 hundred square meters). When harvesting, tubers from plants with strong tops and a large number of tubers are immediately put aside for seeds. The harvest time for early potatoes is early August. The harvest time for late varieties of potatoes is September. It is better to mow the tops 5-7 days before harvesting potatoes, which helps thicken the skin of the tubers and make them shelf-stable. If the tops are cut too early, the yield will be reduced by 25%. In dry weather, potatoes are dried in the open air for 3-5 hours. Storing potato tubers in the sun leads to their greening - the accumulation of solanine, which gives potatoes a bitter taste and is poisonous to humans. But for seed material such changes are even useful. Cold damage to tubers occurs at -2 °C. Storing potatoes at low positive temperatures and at 0°C promotes the accumulation of sugars in the tubers. This is a reversible process and at a temperature of +10 °C established in the storage, the normal taste of the potatoes returns. When potato tops are affected by late blight, macrosporiosis and other diseases, the tops are first mowed and destroyed, and the tubers are left in the ground for 2-3 weeks to form a strong peel. |
In the middle zone, potatoes ripen in approximately 4 months. Modern varieties provide maximum yields from 400 to 800 c/ha. Successful cultivation requires high-quality seeds and proper care.
Growing conditions: how to grow potatoes
Potato tubers germinate when the soil at their depth warms up to 7-8 °C, and then the development of the above-ground part begins. The tops do not tolerate frost and die at -1 – 3 °C.
The optimal temperature for growth, flowering and tuber formation is 16-22 °C. At 20 °C at night, 29 °C during the day, tuber growth stops, so from the second half of July to the end of August the harvest does not increase. The time for planting potatoes should be chosen so that by this time the tubers are almost formed. In the middle zone this is the second ten days of April, in the northern regions - the first ten days of May, in the southern regions - the beginning of April. By the time of planting at a depth of 10 cm, the soil temperature should not be lower than 5 °C.
Suitable soils for growing crops are light and medium in structure, chernozem, loamy, sandy, with a slightly alkaline or neutral reaction. Heavy loams are not suitable, because due to strong soil compaction and lack of air, the tubers develop poorly, and with excess moisture they are severely affected by rot.
The site for planting is chosen to be sunny, open, with a deep arable layer and a high humus content. To prevent diseases, crop rotation is observed; potatoes are returned to their original place after 3-4 years. The best predecessors are legumes and winter grain crops; they enrich the soil with nutrients and cleanse the soil of pests and potato pathogens. In garden plots, the crop can be grown after any vegetables except nightshades.
The soil for planting is prepared in the fall, it is plowed with a shovel, mechanically tilled to a depth of 25 to 27 cm, cleared of weeds, and fertilizers, organic and mineral, are applied. Nitrogen fertilizers are best used in spring.
Planting potatoes and applying fertilizers
Since it is possible to grow potatoes of proper quality and in sufficient quantity only by using varietal seed material that is free from fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, it is best to purchase tubers from specialized farms. When using your own planting material, it is prepared in the fall. For seeds, tubers of regular shape without signs of disease are selected from the most productive bushes. Pear-shaped and spindle-shaped potatoes can be carriers of viral diseases, so they are discarded. Selected seeds are thoroughly dried and greened, kept for about 2 weeks in diffused light and periodically turned. All the flesh of the finished tubers should be green; they do not need to be sorted until spring; they are not damaged by rodents, but due to the poisonous solanine they contain, they must be stored separately from food and fodder potatoes. Before planting for the winter, the seeds are sorted by weight and size; in the spring, each fraction is planted separately so that the plants sprout, develop and ripen at the same time.
In the spring, the tubers are sorted again, separating damaged, diseased, and thread-like sprouts. In order for the harvest to form before the onset of the hot period, potatoes are sprouted. About a month before planting, it is laid out on racks or the floor in well-ventilated areas, and rotated every 8-10 days to ensure uniform formation of sprouts.
Unsprouted tubers are dried. 10-12 days before planting, they are poured into heaps, covered with mats or burlap and left at a temperature of 12 to 16 ° C until short sprouts appear.
To obtain an early harvest from sprouted potatoes, seedlings are grown by placing them in pots with a mixture of leaf soil and humus. Before emergence, the pots are kept in the dark at 10-12 °C, then transferred to the light. Seedlings are planted in the ground in mid-April; if there is a threat of frost, they are covered with film or hilled up high. With this method of planting, harvesting begins at the end of May.
Planting is done with sprouted tubers to a depth of 6 to 8 cm, at a distance of 25-30 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows when manually and 70 cm when mechanically processed. Plant in furrows, simultaneously plowing in mineral or organic fertilizers. If the groundwater is close, the tubers are laid out on the surface, then they are covered with soil from the rows, forming ridges 6-8 cm high.
Further care: processing, harvesting and storage of potatoes
Caring for potato plantings begins before germination. Tubers growing in the ground need access to air, which is provided by loosening. The soil must be kept clean of weeds; in the initial stage of development, they are easily removed with a harrow or rake. Subsequently, they loosen the inter-rows and rows after each watering or rain, preventing the formation of a crust on the soil, while simultaneously removing weeds.
Hilling up of potatoes is carried out when they reach a height of 15-18 cm. In the southern regions, where there is not enough moisture, the plants are not earthed up, limiting themselves to loosening.
To feed potatoes, use mineral fertilizers (5-6 g of superphosphate, 2-3 g of saltpeter and 3-4 g of potassium sulfate per bush) or ash; they can be scattered around the bushes no closer than 10-15 cm from the stems, and then during hilling embed into the ground. When using liquid fertilizing, grooves are made in the middle of the rows, where fertilizer is poured at the rate of 2 tablespoons of potassium, nitrogen and 4-phosphorus fertilizers per bucket of water, spending 1-2 liters per bush. Slurry or pre-fermented bird droppings are used as liquid organic fertilizers for potatoes. After complete absorption, the plants must be loosened or hilled.
Starting from the budding phase, the soil should be sufficiently moist. If during a drought it dries out 6-8 cm deep, the potatoes need to be watered. Watering is carried out in the evening, spending 2-3 liters of water on each bush. In dry weather, water several (3-5) times during the season, mainly during budding and tuberization, after which loosening is carried out the next day.
Throughout the season, they are regularly treated against diseases and pests.
Potato harvesting begins after the tops have completely died off. In the middle zone, early varieties are dug up starting from the end of July, the rest from the second ten days of September to the first ten days of October. Two weeks before harvesting, the tops are mowed, which helps to thicken the peel and improve the ripening of the tubers. Digging is done with a shovel, pitchfork or industrial digger. In this case, it is necessary to avoid damaging the tubers, since damaged potatoes are more susceptible to disease during storage.
Store potatoes at a temperature of 2 to 4 °C and a humidity of 90-92%. They use cellars, storage facilities, and in their absence, special pits or piles are installed. Before storing for the winter, the tubers must be dried, cleared of soil residues, and sorted from diseased and injured specimens, which will significantly reduce storage losses.
In March, gardeners in the middle zone remove seed potatoes from storage for germination. To properly prepare planting material, it takes 35 to 40 days.
Preparation of potato planting material
It is better to select tubers for planting in the fall, when harvesting. Planting potatoes are taken from the best bushes, choosing healthy tubers approximately the size of a chicken egg. Probably the most common mistake: setting aside small potatoes for planting, which are not suitable for food. In this way, they themselves worsen the harvest and contribute to the degeneration of varieties, because in fact the worst specimens are selected - insufficiently fertile, insufficiently developed.
It is good to green up the planting tubers in the fall, that is, leave them in the light for some time so that they turn green. Such potatoes are stored more reliably, and for some reason rodents do not touch them.
In the spring, if sprouts begin to appear prematurely, they need to be broken off. If you feel bad throwing it away, try getting seedlings. Strong, dense sprouts are carefully broken out of the eyes and buried approximately 2/3 into the soil in seedling boxes. Watered; You can cover it with film until it takes root, but it’s not necessary. Such sprouts can be taken twice from one healthy potato; the third time, the sprouted tuber must be planted in the ground.
Potatoes are sprouted in boxes, perforated plastic bags (perforated for normal ventilation), in bulk on the floor - as conditions permit. It is important that the tubers receive enough light (in the dark the sprouts will stretch and weaken) and are kept at a temperature of +12 °C to +15 °C. At higher temperatures, germination will accelerate, and the tubers will wither and weaken.
Can be germinated in sawdust or peat. To do this, the tubers are placed in layers in boxes, baskets and similar containers and covered with soil, evenly moistening them. It will take about three weeks for sprouts and root buds to appear on the potatoes.
Sometimes these two methods are combined: first they germinate in the light, and then carefully lay them out in boxes and sprinkle them with moistened soil, and keep them in this form for another 10 days before planting. The goal of all these manipulations is to speed up germination, obtain friendly and strong shoots, and an earlier harvest.
Planting potatoes
There are a lot of ways to plant potatoes, so we will only talk about the most common ones. The first thing to consider: the denser and heavier the soil, the shallower the planting depth. So, on clay soils, potatoes are planted no deeper than 4-5 cm, and on light and loose sandy and sandy loam soils - 10-12 cm.
The choice of planting method also depends on the soil and conditions. On light soils, as well as in hot and dry climates, it is better to plant potatoes under a shovel - in holes made on a flat, cultivated area - or in furrows. If the soil is damp, dense, and warms up late, ridges are cut under the potatoes, raising the plantings above the soil level.
When planting potatoes, the distance between the rows should be at least 60-70 cm. This is necessary, firstly, so that there is somewhere to get soil for hilling, and secondly, so that the potatoes have enough light - this crop is very light-loving and reacts to the slightest shading by decreasing harvest. The distance between plants in a row is 25-30 cm.
It is strictly forbidden to apply fresh manure under potatoes - it can cause real epidemics of various diseases. Potatoes need phosphorus and potassium, but excess nitrogen fertilizers can reduce the yield. In spring, it is undesirable to use chlorine-containing potassium fertilizers; if the soil has not been amended since the fall, in the spring only fertilizers without chlorine are applied to the holes.
The method of planting potatoes under straw is now popular: sprouted potatoes are laid out directly on the surface of the soil or in small holes, and the entire area is covered with a thick layer of straw on top. As the potatoes grow, straw is added. This method has both supporters and opponents: some say that the potatoes come out excellent, clean, and digging them is a pleasure; others note that potatoes are dry in straw and mice quickly breed in it.
There are also ways to plant potatoes under non-woven material, in high beds (containers) filled with organic matter, in barrels, in mounds, and so on - there is room for experimentation.
Potato care
As the potatoes grow, they must be hilled up, that is, they add soil to the base of the bushes, raking it from the rows. As a result, even if you planted potatoes under a shovel, ridges gradually grow in the area. Hilling is necessary so that the potatoes form additional underground stems - stolons, on which the crop is formed. In addition, hilling prevents the bush from falling apart.
Hilling up can also protect spring seedlings from return frosts: if cold weather is approaching, hill up the plantings high; You can even completely cover them with soil to prevent them from freezing. Hill up at least twice: the first time when the plants reach 14-16 cm in height; the second - before flowering, two to three weeks after the first. And it is better to do this after rain, when the soil is still wet.
Potatoes do not tolerate drought well, so it is necessary to water them in dry, hot summers. If this is not done, the rains that come after a drought can lead to the formation of ugly tubers. Plants need the most water before flowering and during the flowering period - at least 2-3 liters of water per bush.
Feed the potatoes with slurry or diluted bird droppings; If necessary, apply mineral fertilizers, preferably in the form of a solution. But the quantity and composition of fertilizers very much depend on the composition and quality of the soil, as well as on how well it was filled with fertilizers before planting. You should not overuse fertilizing, because this can deteriorate the quality of the tubers.
When growing potatoes, you have to deal with pests, of which the worst are the Colorado potato beetle and wireworm. Folk remedies for controlling the Colorado potato beetle: onion peels (sprinkled on the plantings, added to the holes); dusting plantings with sifted wood ash; planting calendula along with potatoes, beans - along with potatoes or along the perimeter of the field, beans - along the perimeter of the potato field. According to the observation of many gardeners, sowing leaf mustard and peas as green manure crops before planting potatoes helps against wireworms.
Selection of potato varieties
Potato varieties are divided into early, medium and late. It is important to consider several rules:
1. Choose only zoned varieties. No matter how good and productive a variety is, it will not fully manifest itself in soil and climatic conditions that are unsuitable for it.
2. Always choose and plant several varieties. Firstly, it will help to extend the fruiting time - if you plant varieties with different ripening periods. Secondly, this way you can insure yourself in case of some weather or other difficulties: different varieties withstand unfavorable conditions in different ways, and you will always have a harvest. If only one variety grows, unexpected drought or rain or disease can destroy everything.
3. Plant, harvest and store different varieties separately. You've probably noticed that plants develop differently on the same ridge. This most often happens when planting varieties mixed together. In this case, the yield will be lower.
4. Periodically update planting material: Grow potatoes from seeds or buy quality seed tubers from reliable sellers. If you don't do this, over time you may notice that your yield decreases, despite your best efforts.
Our interlocutor today - Mikhail Grigorievich VERKHOV– on his personal plot he receives record harvests of all vegetable crops, including potatoes.
– 500-600 kilograms of potatoes per hundred square meters is the dream of every gardener, many get much more modest results. What is the yield of this crop for you?
– From a ton and above. Such a high result is achieved thanks to many factors: healthy fertile soil, high-quality seeds, strict adherence to all the rules of agricultural technology. Why doesn't every farmer get high yields? All of the dachas are old, the plots, as a rule, were allocated to inaccessible areas, and everything is clogged. In addition, we ourselves “poiled” them with all sorts of fertilizers and sprays against diseases and pests. And therefore, in order to get a decent potato harvest, you must first put the land in order, that is, make it healthier. Healthy soil is the basis for yields for any crop, whether we grow cucumbers, tomatoes or potatoes. On my site the land has a high agricultural background. Of course, I have been achieving this for many years; I have been working with potatoes for 15 years. In recent years I have switched to new technology.
– What does it mean to put the earth in order?
– I am not a supporter of chemical fertilizers. In recent years, the only fertilizer on my plot is compost. Nevertheless, I get a stable harvest. Firstly, you need to add at least 5-6 kilograms of good compost and 100-200 grams of ash per square meter to the area where you will grow potatoes. This is the first thing you can do with the land. Secondly, to obtain a high yield, you need to have good seed material, at least the first or second reproduction, and even better, elite.
– Mikhail Grigorievich, please tell me which potato variety do you consider the best?
– There are a lot of potato varieties, and it’s difficult for me to give a definitive answer to this question. You need to be aware of the purposes for which you need potatoes. Let’s say that such an excellent productive variety as Rosara “serves” for certain purposes. Rosara makes wonderful fried potatoes into strips, ideal for salads and vinaigrette. The tubers have a low starch content and do not boil softly. What is good about the mid-late variety Itessa? His tubers are cooked medium-well, and they make a tasty puree. I don’t like it when so-called “soapy” potatoes are used for soup, borscht or mashed potatoes. The early ripening variety Arosa is distinguished by the fact that its tubers, among other advantages, have a high marketability. They are especially good for stir-fries and salads. The universal variety Phellox has excellent qualities. Its tubers are good in any form - for frying, for salads, and boiled, seasoned with herbs. I work with varieties such as Arosa, Rosara, Zekura, Itessa, Red Lady, Sprint, Miranda, Fellox.
– Agricultural technology for growing potatoes is, in general, well known. And yet, each potato grower brings something of his own to this process. What “highlights” do you use when planting and caring for it?
– As for the planting method, there are three types. The most commonly used method is the so-called continuous planting. Another way is to plant in ridges. And the third, which I prefer, is planting potatoes in beds. Each of these methods has its pros and cons. When planting using conventional technology, it becomes difficult to care for potatoes (weeding, spraying against the Colorado potato beetle) at a time when the bushes are closing. Planting in ridges is good where the ground is very heavy.
I will dwell in more detail on the advantages of my method. I have two rows in the ridge, the distance between the ridges is 1 m. I plant potatoes in two paired rows in a checkerboard pattern. This results in a so-called triangle landing. I adhere to the rule: where the plant is planted, there should be no human footsteps; I process the potatoes by walking along wide rows. When I hill up the bushes, a groove forms between two rows. These grooves are very convenient for watering and feeding the plantings: put a hose between the rows and there are no problems with watering. It is convenient to approach the rows when collecting the same Colorado potato beetle.
– What other advantages are there of planting on ridges?
– All gardeners, of course, have noticed that the outermost bushes of any plants, including potatoes, are always more productive, since they are more illuminated by the sun and receive a larger area of nutrition. When planting potatoes on ridges and always in a checkerboard pattern, all the bushes turn out to be outermost. They are equally illuminated by the sun, and each bush has the same feeding area in the triangle allocated for it. And the more nutrition, the higher the harvest. Thickened planting leads to its great loss.
The potato harvest depends 40 percent on seeds, the remaining 60 percent on the human factor, that is, on how you care for it. You need to clearly know when potatoes especially need watering and when they need fertilizing. I water my potatoes twice during the growing season. At the same time as watering, I also fertilize. The first time during budding, and the second time after the end of flowering - at this time the strong growth of tubers begins. The plantings must be watered abundantly, so that the soil is wet at a depth of 30-40 cm - this is the soil horizon in which the tubers grow.