JOURNAL "CACTUSES AND OTHER DRY-LOVING PLANTS"
EPIPHITE CACTUS AND OTHER SUCCULENTS ON BLOCKS
Article announcement. Full text in issue 24 2 (2004)
Tokarev M.Yu. St. Petersburg
Not all cacti live in lifeless deserts. Interestingly, even the wettest variants of the evergreen rainforest of the equatorial and tropical regions of America can contain cacti. As a rule, these are epiphytic plants that do not have contact with the soil. They receive mineral nutrition due to dead plant litter accumulating on thick branches and in the forks of branches. In forests with a pronounced dry period, the number of cacti, including epiphytic ones, increases.
In total, representatives of 32 out of 230 genera of cacti are epiphytic (according to the classification of K. Bakeberg), this is a very noticeable part of the cactus family. Here is a list of these genera: Acanthorhipsalis, Aporocactus, Chiapasia, Cryptocereus, Deamia, Disocactus, Eccremocactus, Epiphyllanthus, Epiphyllopsis, Epiphyllum, Erythrorhipsalis, Hatiora, Hylocereus, Lepismium, Lobeira, Marniera, Mediocactus, Nopalxochia, Pseudonopalxochia, Pseudorhipsalis, Pseudo-zygocactus, Rhipsalidopsis Rhipsalis Schlumbergera Selenicereus Strophocactus Typically, the species of these genera grow in the crowns of the forest. However, they can also grow on rocks, or simply on the surface of the earth. Also, many typical cacti such as ferocactus and mamillaria can sometimes be found growing on tree trunks. Photos of such random epiphytes are periodically found in foreign cactus magazines.
Schlumbergera bucklei |
Judging by our KIDSR magazine, epiphytic cacti are not very popular and rarely become the subject of specialization of our amateurs (and completely in vain), but I think many still keep a couple of epiphyllums or Schlumberger in pots "for beauty." I will tell you about another, little common, especially among cactusists, method of growing these plants. Of course, some people know what a "block culture" is and have even seen, for example, in a botanical garden, orchids and some other plants on blocks.
From my own experience I will say that any houseplant can be grown on the blocks - the only question is whether this is advisable! Usually, experienced orchid collectors tend to use blocks only when necessary, when growing plants in pots or baskets is difficult for various reasons, since caring for a block takes much more time than a potted plant. Nevertheless, in decorative terms, the composition of epiphytes on a block is not inferior to a "cactus garden", and taking care of 1-2 blocks will not take much time.
Pieces of pine bark are usually used as the basis for the block, but plastic can also be used.
Planting on a block is done as follows: washed fern roots with a layer of 5-7 cm are attached to a suitable piece of bark (optimal size 25-30 cm X 15-20 cm), then they are covered with a layer of sphagnum, on which plant cuttings are placed. The bases of the cuttings with sphagnum are attached to the substrate and from above it is covered with a layer of green moss and once again tied.
It is desirable that the cuttings of cacti consist of several segments, twig-like ripsalis should be cut just below (1-2 cm) forks and the place of the fork should be covered with moss. After planting, Rhipsalidopsis and Schlumberger should be additionally pinned to the block with wire pins in 2-3 knots.
Any thin twine made of decaying material or enameled copper wire with a diameter of 0.2-0.3 mm is used as a binding material. It is very convenient to use a twine from women's nylon stockings or tights. They are cut in a spiral with a tape 2-3 cm wide. The slightly stretched strap is rolled into a ball and the twine is ready to go. The straps and fasteners must be made very tightly so that all the components of the block make up, as it were, one whole.
After planting, the block with cuttings is soaked and placed in a plastic bag, which is slightly inflated and tied. The bag with the block is placed in a warm, bright, but not sunny place for 1-2 weeks until the cuttings show signs of growth, and then they are hung on a permanent place on the wall. In order not to stain the wallpaper, a piece of plexiglass or plywood pasted over with "self-adhesive" is hung on the same nail. Further care - watering, spraying and fertilizing - as for plants in pots. For watering, the block is soaked in a container with water. In summer, in hot dry weather - every day, the rest of the time 2-3 times a week. Only a wet block is watered with fertilizer. With a well-made block, a transplant may take 7-10 years.
In addition to the described "usual block", there are several of its varieties, for example, when driftwood or tree branches are used as a basis. They can also be hung on the wall or fixed in a bowl (with a screw through the bottom), which is filled with gravel or any substrate, if desired, and a layer of green moss. The so-called "closed block" is also used. In this version, instead of green moss, the substrate is covered with pieces of bark. On such a block, the plants look like growing on bare bark, and the conditions for them are almost the same as in a regular planter. The main disadvantage of such a block is a smaller assortment of plants suitable for it, since species with creeping shoots rooting at the nodes or along the entire length of the stem are excluded.
Together with cacti, small bromeliads, for example cryptanthus, can be planted on blocks, and succulent tillandsias from the group of so-called "atmospherics" can be planted in places free from the substrate. From the Gesneriaceae family, species with relatively short stems can be used - Mortona's Columnea and Eshinanthus Pulcher. Of the acanthus, fittonia grow well on blocks, especially the small-leaved variety of fittonia with white veins.
From ferns on blocks with cacti, it is best to grow various types of polypodiums, pyrosias and dalias. Pyrosia are especially good, among which there are many miniature species with thick, almost succulent leaves. The composition can be supplemented with small types of piperomias and pili. Oddly enough, but in the huge family of orchids, there are few species suitable for this type of block. These are mainly unpretentious species of dendrobiums, some miniature species of bulbophyllums, some species of cellogyne (C. fimbriata and those close to it), some species of pluranthalids.
With the joint maintenance of all the listed plants, problems can arise only when preparing cacti for flowering, i.e. during their dormant period, when watering is significantly reduced. Sometimes, in order to preserve a beautiful composition, you have to sacrifice abundant flowering. And one more thing: unlike the “cactus garden”, which hibernates in ordinary cactus conditions, the plants on the blocks continue to grow in winter. Therefore, backlighting is very desirable for them, one fluorescent lamp at a distance of up to 50 cm is enough.
Lepismiums, Ripsalis, Ripsalidopsis, Schlumberger grew very well on my blocks. Aporocactus flagelliformis, Hildewintera (Winterocereus, Winteria) aureispina, and even Bolivicereus samaipatanus, which, although not an epiphyte, but by the nature of its growth, is well suited for the block, also looked great and grew well. Epiphytic plants do not require a large amount of nutrient soil. On a block 10-12 cm long, a meter-long epiphyte bush can grow.
Rhipsalis family Cactaceae (Cactaceae) - forest epiphytic cactus, growing naturally on trees, less often on sheer rocks.
Even in the same type of Ripsalis, the stems are of different shapes - ribbed, rounded, leaf-like flattened and various shades of green. They are usually devoid of thorns, branching profusely, often hanging from trees and rocky ledges. They look like whorled, branching, succulent shoots of yellowish-green color, which are wedge-shaped from the base to the top. These stems have aerial roots that can draw moisture directly from the outside air. In numerous areoles, small delicate flowers appear, shaped like bells - white, pink, yellow or bright red. Ripsalis has the same brightly and variably colored fruits in the form of small berries with many small black seeds with sticky outgrowth.
Views
Rhipsalis Barchela (Rhipsalis burchellii)- an epiphytic cactus, the length of the primary stems is up to 60 cm, the length of the terminal stems is about 6 cm with a diameter of 1-2 mm.
Rhipsalis hairy (Rhipsalis capilliformis)- epiphytic ampelous cactus with soft, thin, branching stems. The flowers are small, whitish.
Rhipsalis goebeliana- an epiphytic cactus with stem segments of two varieties. Primary at the base are rounded, then flattened. Terminal segments are 8-13 cm long and 1.5-3 cm wide.
Curly Rhipsalis (Rhipsalis crispata)- bushy cactus, stem segments are wide, leafy. Their length reaches 6-10 cm, width 2-4 cm.
Rhipsalis lindbergiana- an epiphytic cactus with long hanging stems. The length of the primary stem segments is up to 1 m, their diameter is 3-5 mm. Secondary segments are shorter, they are rounded in cross section.
Rhipsalis mesembryanthemoides- epiphytic cactus, stems resemble spruce sticks. The primary stem segments are rounded in cross section, 10–20 cm long. The length of the secondary segments is 1–1.5 cm; in cross section, they are also rounded.
Rhipsalis teres- a highly branching plant with cylindrical, at first erect, later drooping shoots up to half a meter long and no more than 5 mm thick. The flowers are small, yellowish.
Rhipsalis prismatica- a branching plant with a strong cylindrical stem 12-15 cm long, from the top of which shoots with 4-5 edges extend. The flowers are white.
Rhipsalis empty (Rhipsalis cassutha)- an epiphytic cactus with thin, segmented, hanging stems up to 3 m long, individual segments up to 10-50 cm. Flowers are small, inconspicuous.
Rhipsalis fasciculata (Rhipsalis fasciculata)- epiphytic cactus, up to 40-50 cm high, with an erect or hanging branched stem, light bluish-green in color. Fleshy cylindrical stems consist of numerous segments 8-10 cm long and about 6 mm wide, with small pubescent areoles without spines, but with long bristles. In early summer, numerous funnel-shaped daytime flowers about 1 cm long and 5-7 cm in diameter, with a short tube, greenish-white, appear from the lateral areoles. Small globular white fruits are filled with seeds immersed in the slimy pulp.
Rhipsalis fluffy (Rhipsalis floccosa)- an epiphytic cactus with long hanging stems. Stem segments are rounded in cross section, up to 25 cm long, 5-6 mm in diameter.
Rhipsalis pachyptera (Rhipsalis pachyptera)- a branching plant, at first with erect, later hanging shoots up to 1 m long. Shoots are dark green with red edges, elliptical or round, embossed. The flowers are small, up to 1.5 cm long, white.
Rhipsalis clavata (Rhipsalis clavata)- epiphytic cacti, at a young age with erect stems. In overgrown specimens, they hang. The length of the stems can reach 1 m. The length of the stem segments is 5 cm, the diameter is 2-3 mm.
Rhipsalis elliptic (Rhipsalis eliptica)- an epiphytic cactus, the length of the stems of which reaches 1-2 m. The length of the stem segments is from 6 to 15 cm, their width is 2.5-6 cm. Areoles are slightly pubescent.
Rhipsalis pilocarpa- an epiphytic cactus, the stems of which are more powerful and rigid, do not branch very strongly and are covered with short yellowish hairs. It blooms 2-3 times a year under suitable conditions. At the same time, it blooms quite abundantly with large yellowish flowers. The flowers have many petals and stamens, which makes them seem fluffy.
Rhipsalis cereuscula- an epiphytic cactus, the stems consist of thin fleshy and short segments that branch well. It seems that the plant consists of thin sticks, as it were. It can take both an ampelous form and take a tree-like appearance, but then it needs to be tied up. It blooms very rarely indoors.
Care
Lighting
Rhipsalis prefers bright, but diffused light, can grow in partial shade. It grows well in diffused lighting on west and east windows. In the summer, the plant can be exposed to fresh air, in a bright place protected from direct sunlight.
Temperature
In the spring-summer period, the optimum temperature for Ripsalis is 18-20 ° C. In winter, it is recommended to keep the cactus in cool conditions, at a temperature of 12-16 ° C, but not lower than 10 ° C.
Air humidity
Ripsalis is not as sensitive to air humidity as other forest cacti, but in summer it is recommended to spray the plant with soft, settled water, and to increase the humidity, you can put the plant on pallets with wet expanded clay or pebbles.
Watering
During the growing season, ripsalis is watered abundantly, as the topsoil dries up, with soft, settled water. From autumn, watering is reduced, in winter, especially when kept in cool conditions, watering is limited and careful. Drying out of an earthen coma, as well as excessive watering, is very harmful to the plant.
Fertilizer
During the growth period and during flowering, Ripsalis is fed 2 times a month with mineral fertilizers for cacti. Other mineral fertilizers must be diluted by half; it must also be remembered that an excess of nitrogen is contraindicated for cacti, since it promotes root rot. The optimal ratio of nitrogen (N) is 9, phosphorus (P) - 18, potassium (K) - 24. Plants are not fed during the dormant period.
The soil
for ripsalis, the soil is taken slightly acidic or neutral, of the following composition:
leafy land, turf, peat and sand in equal proportions. You can use a ready-made cactus substrate.
Transfer
Rhipsalis is transplanted after flowering, young specimens annually, adults as needed every 2-3 years, large ones after 4-5 years. The root system of Ripsalis is shallow, so shallow wide pots are preferred. Provide good drainage at the bottom of the pot.
Reproduction
Propagate ripsalis cuttings and seeds.
Cuttings ripsalis take root well. Rooting of cuttings can be done at any time of the year. Before planting, the cuttings are slightly dried and placed without burying them on wet soil. Cuttings root well in wet sand with peat (1: 1) at 23-25 ° C. You can close the top with a mini-plaque, remembering to periodically ventilate.
Diseases and pests
Amazed red flat tick(symptoms: leaves become lethargic, in rusty spots, appears with dry air), scabbards(Symptoms: brown plaques appear on leaves and stems, leaving a sticky discharge).
The plant can be helped by treatment with soapy water, warm washing and spraying with actellik (1-2 ml per liter of water).
With an excess of moisture, the base of the stem begins to rot.
Possible difficulties
Rhipsalis often sheds part of the segments and buds.
Such symptoms occur when the plant is overcooled, when the earthen coma is dried out, the location of the plant is changed, and the root system decays.
It should be noted that the root system of Ripsalis is not too strong and lends itself easily decay.
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With the concept of "cacti" we usually associate spherical or columnar plants, abundantly decorated with thorns and living in hot arid areas with strong winds.
It turns out that there are species of cacti that live in the tropical rainforests of South and Central America, where they grow together with orchids, bromeliads and ferns on trunks, branches and tree hollows, on clusters of leaf humus, sheltered from the hot sun by thick foliage, forming a thick lace intertwining stems. It is always warm there, and there are frequent warm rains. Over time, the thorns of these cacti disappeared, and the epidermis became thinner. Their branched stems consist of flat, leaf-shaped, toothed or scalloped segments, on which aerial roots are often formed.
Among the epiphytic cacti, there are many plants that are of interest to amateurs, primarily with a high decorative flowering. The most common are Schlumberger (Schlumbergera), which in Russia is called "Decembrist" and "Barbarian color", as well as the so-called "Easter cactus" - Rhipsalidopsis (now belonging to the genus Hatiora). Numerous hybrids have been bred from these cacti.
The homeland of the natural Schlumberger species, which gave rise to the whole variety of modern hybrids, were cacti from the humid mountain forests of Brazil. The ancestors of modern hybrids, artificially bred, did not differ in a variety of color colors, they were most often pink-purple. The flowers of these cacti are zygomorphic, with only one plane of symmetry, having a perianth with a more or less curved tube and an oblique limb. Stem segments are flat, with pronounced teeth along the edges.
The first hybrids were obtained by crossing the species Schlumbergera truncatus and Schlumbergera russelliana. Previously, these plants were called zygocactus, but were later included in the Schlumberger genus. Both of these names can be found in the literature now. Hybrids of these plants in the West are called "Christmas cacti" because of the timing of flowering close to Catholic Christmas.
Their "compatriots" Ripsalidopsis are very similar to Schlumberger. They differ only in the shape of the flower and stems, as well as in the timing of dormancy and flowering. Almost all of the first hybrids of these plants were obtained by crossing two species: Rhipsalidopsis rosea and Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri. These cacti are called "Easter" because they bloom by Easter - in March-May. The flowers of Ripsalidopsis are radially symmetric with an even corolla; the stem segments have a smoothed notched-crenate margin, where barely noticeable areoles with fine hairs are located. At the ends of the shoots, as a result of the fusion of several, one large complex areola with dense bristles is formed. Numerous buds are immediately laid and lateral shoots are formed. Some Ripsalidopsis hybrids have tetrahedral stems.
Modern varieties of these epiphytic cacti, obtained as a result of long-term and targeted selection, have a variety of flower colors: white, yellow, peach, salmon, red, raspberry, purple, tricolor. There are also large rimmed flowers up to 8 cm in diameter!
There are several examples of the diversity of flower color in hybrid Schlumberger and Ripsalidopsis varieties. So the Schlumberger 'Red Radians' has amazing orange flowers with a red border; the flower of the ‘Malibu’ plant is striking in a variety of colors: a white tube, an orange stripe in the middle of the petal, gradually turning into red with purple shadows. And all this is completed by a thin cherry edging along the edge of the petals. Schlumberger's ‘Russian Dance’ is adorned with very large pearlescent flowers of an extraordinary coral-pink color with a slight orange tint and a “neon” effect.
Rhipsalidopsis ‘Phoenix’ has flowers, easily reaching 7 cm in diameter, a “luminous” pale pink color with wide petals, each of which is decorated with a deep pink, gradually melting stripe in the center. The stems of this plant are dark green, which creates a wonderful backdrop for flowers. Rhipsalidopsis 'Capella' has wonderful large flowers of extraordinary coral color with narrow petals. Stem segments are elongated, small, decorated with dark red edging. Hybrids of Ripsalidopsis with double flowers were bred: 'Beauty Owner', 'Double China Rose', 'Jewel', as well as 'Heather' with delicate raspberry-fuchsia flowers and an unusually green tube. The result of crossing the Schlumberger and Ripsalidopsis hybrids is the 'Star Burst' cultivar with scalloped shoots like Schlumberger's and a star-shaped flower.
Breeders paid attention to the shape of the bushes of these plants. Varieties that previously had arched and hanging branches now grow in a more compact, upright bush. The shoots have become thicker and stronger, capable of carrying the load of a large number of flowers. But there are also hybrids in which the growth form is emphasized ampelous. Such plants are planted in hanging pots or baskets. An interesting variety of the 'Madame Butterfly' variety, in which the stem segments have a white and yellow border.
Information about the first experiments in breeding work with Schlumberger dates back to the 1800s. Many hybrids are produced commercially throughout the world. The best ones are usually patented, which is indicated on the packaging label. These hybrids surpass others in the form of the whole plant and the beauty of the flowers, which are obtained as a result of many years of breeders' work. The patent allows the breeder to recover the cost of developing a hybrid and helps fund additional research. In the United States, targeted breeding began in the 1960s at the central Florida nursery B. L. Cobia Inc. New hybrids can be obtained in three possible ways. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, but when working with these cacti, hybridizers have successfully used all three: selection itself, natural (natural) mutation, and artificial mutation.
Future offspring will have, to a greater or lesser extent, the traits of each parent. The plant can also be self-pollinated, which reinforces the desired parental traits in the offspring. With successful pollination, the ovary begins to grow and matures within 4-6 months, changing its color. The inside of the fruit contains several small brown or black seeds. The seeds germinate in 20-30 days, and the first time the plant will bloom in 1.5-3 years.
One of the most difficult projects was getting Schlumbergera with true yellow flowers, as this color was absent in the color of the flowers. Such a hybrid was obtained in the greenhouse farm B. L. Cobia Inc (USA) in 1982. The closest color was orange.
Read the continuation of the article in №2 2009
In one of the past, we have already mentioned Epiphyllum ( Epiphyllum), but only in passing, now it's time to talk about it in more detail.
To begin with, I would like to remind you that Epiphyllum is a forest cactus with wide leaves, it is vaguely similar to and also belongs to the genus of epiphytic plants. Mexico is considered its homeland, but today, this species is found more and more often in the houses of cactusists and ordinary people. This type of cacti is remarkable in that it has 20 varieties, each of which is interesting in its own way.
In this article, we will try to consider the most interesting of them, and tell you how to properly care for Epiphyllum at home and what needs to be done to make it bloom. Let's get started!
Epiphyllum Anguliger ( Epiphyllum Anguliger) Angular
Quite a popular look. Both in nature and at home it grows very much. Stems woody closer to the base. During the flowering period, the cactus will delight you with beautiful and fragrant flowers, which, when opened, can reach 10 cm. Also, this species is also known as "Angular Epiphyllum".
Epiphyllum Anguliger / Flowering Epiphyllum Oxypetalum ( Epiphyllum oxypetalum)
This species is notable for being able, even at home, to grow up to 3 meters in height. The stems are long, shaped like twigs. The cactus blooms beautifully, and the flowers themselves can have a different shade. The cactus has another name - "Acid-petal".
Epiphyllum Oxypetalum / Blossom Epiphyllum Ackerman ( Epiphyllum Akermanii)
Another equally popular type. Quite often, it is planted in a hanging pot with the stems hanging down. The cactus does not grow especially strongly. The stems are serrated. During the flowering period, the plant will greatly delight the owners, with a large number of bright red flowers of medium size. Looks very pretty!
Epiphyllum Ackermann
Epiphyllum Guatemalan ( Epiphyllum Guatemalense)
Among the representatives of this species, two varieties can be found. They differ among themselves by stems. In the first, the stems resemble oak leaves, which are, as it were, interconnected. In the second variety, the stem has a different shape and it develops completely arbitrarily. The flowers are the same for both varieties and come in several shades of pink.
Epiphyllum Guatemalan Epiphyllum Hollyleaf ( Epiphyllum hookeri) Epiphyllum White
Perhaps the only Epiphyllum that has several names - Hooker, Hollyleaf and White. It is best to plant such a cactus in a wide floor pot or hanging, as it grows quite a lot. Hollyleaf was nicknamed because of the shape of the leaves on the stems, and white because of the flowers. By the way, the cactus blooms beautifully. There are many flowers, they are large, white, smell good and hang down.
Epiphyllum Hollyleaf / Flowering Epiphyllum Lau ( Epiphyllum laui)
The plant has rather thick stems. It grows both in height and width. A feature of the cactus is its large, slightly yellowish flowers, which open after sunset and exude a pleasant smell.
Epiphyllum Lau / Flowering Epiphyllum serrated ( Epiphyllum Crenatum)
The cactus received this name due to its stems. Usually, this species grows up to 1 meter, no more. Most often, they plant a cactus in a hanging pot or cling to a trellis. During the flowering period, it throws out flowers of medium size, white or yellow.
Epiphyllum serrated Epiphyllum Marnier ( Epiphyllum marniera)
I would like to note right away that this species was mistakenly attributed to Epiphyllum, because it belongs to the Selenicereus genus, and its correct name, Marniera, is yellow-hearted. This species grows quite sprawling, has long stems with large leaves. During the flowering period, the cactus throws out several flowers, the diameter of which, when opened, can reach 25! see The smell is very strong and pleasant.
Epiphyllum Marniera / Blossom Care
There are usually no special difficulties with growing Epiphyllum, and the process itself is practically no different from how other cacti are grown. Nevertheless, in this section, we will tell you how to grow this type of cactus at home and consider such important points as:
Location and lighting
Since Epiphyllum is a forest cactus, it does not like the sun too bright, therefore, the most optimal option would be the east window or any other, but slightly darkened one. The plant loves light, but remember to avoid direct sunlight. During the rest period, additional artificial lighting is not required.
Temperature regime
The most optimal temperature for a cactus is 23-25 degrees Celsius, and in winter and the rest period is from 10 to 15. The air humidity should be slightly above average, but if you are unable to create such conditions, then it's okay - the plant quickly adapts to any humidity, even the lowest.
Watering
From November to March, watering should be minimal - 1-2 times a month, with warm water. In spring and summer, water the cactus more often, but the main thing is not to overdo it. Check soil moisture yourself. Most importantly, don't let the earth dry out. If the soil is loose, dryish, but light moisture is felt, this means that it's time to water. Use lukewarm water, but by no means from the tap.
Fertilizing
Top dressing is best done during a period of active growth or flowering. Usually, this moment falls in the spring and the first month of summer. The plant should be fed once a week or two, it all depends on the fertilization. Usually, the package contains the timing and dosage. It is best to use mineral fertilizers themselves, with a high content of calcium, potassium and phosphorus, but no nitrogen!
The soil
Young plants need good soil. As a rule, up to three to five years of age, they use ready-made soil, which is sold in flower shops. After this age, the earth is made on its own. In order to prepare the soil at home, you will need:
- Ordinary land
- Sand
- Charcoal or earth
- Small crushed stone or crushed brick
- A little humus (compost)
It is necessary to mix all the ingredients in the following proportion 1: 1: 1: 1: 1: 2 (you can have more compost). Be sure to mix everything well. Thus, you will have a ready-made land that can be used at any time, for example, for replanting.
Older plants need almost peat soil, with little compost and sand.
Transfer
Once every 2-3 years, Epiphyllum, and any other type of cactus, should be transplanted. The plant needs a transplant for further growth, and the earth still wears out, no matter how you fertilize it. For a transplant you will need:
- soil (ready-made or prepared yourself);
- drainage (expanded clay, crushed stone, brick chips);
- pot.
In a new pot, put a layer of drainage on the bottom so that it is 3-4 cm thick. Then, pour a little soil on top of the drainage. Now, you need to remove the cactus from the old pot. This is done simply - turn the pot over and knock on its bottom. Just do all this carefully, as Epiphyllum has spreading stems and it is easy to damage them.
When the cactus is removed, shake the root system a little of the old soil and place in a new pot. All that remains is to fill the container with soil and water. If the transplant is performed during the active growth phase, then fertilization should also be performed.
Pruning
Since the Epiphyllum is quite sprawling, the plant should be pruned periodically, once every 3 years. This is done easily. With a sharp knife, boldly remove spoiled and improperly growing stems. You should also cut off those stems that already had flowers 2 years ago. It will not be possible to see new flowers on them, and they will interfere with the plant. You should also remove those shoots that have never bloomed.
After pruning, be sure to sprinkle the cuts with charcoal or ash.
Dormant period
The dormant period for a cactus begins from the end of October and until March. At this time, you should not disturb the cactus, do not touch it once again and do not rearrange it. Temperature 10-15 degrees. Watering is carried out rarely and in very small dosages - 1-2 times a month, several tablespoons of water. Room temperature water. Also, it is worth saying that at this time, you can feed with some types of fertilizers that are designed specifically for cacti.
Bloom
Depending on the species, Epiphyllum can bloom up to twice a year - in spring and early autumn. Most importantly, as soon as you see the formation of buds, in no case touch or turn the pot, otherwise you can ruin everything. At this time, cacti are very sensitive to any action. If your pet has not bloomed, then there may be several reasons:
- First of all, age. Usually, the first flowering of cacti is possible in the second or third year.
- If everything is in order with age, it means that mistakes were made in caring for the plant.
- Watering is disturbed, lack of light, wrong conditions are created during the rest period, etc. All of this affects whether your cactus will bloom or not. So, keep in mind.
- Well, as a consolation, I can add that there has never been such a cactus that never bloomed!
Reproduction
Reproduction of Epiphyllum is not particularly different from other types of cacti. It can be done in several ways:
- Seeds;
- Cuttings;
- By division.
Now a little more detail about each of them:
Seeds
In one of the previous articles, we wrote how you can grow cacti from seeds, so in order not to repeat ourselves, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with it. In short, the seeds are taken, soaked in a light solution of potassium permanganate, and then sown in a greenhouse with a special soil. Then, you should expect the emergence of seedlings, and after 3 months, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.
Cuttings
To carry out propagation by cuttings, you will need:
- Sharp knife;
- Soil for cacti;
- Pot;
- Sand.
First of all, prepare a new pot where the cutting will be planted. It is better to choose a pot that is not too high and wide. Further, it must be filled with soil, so 5-6 centimeters.
The next stage is the preparation of the cutting. To get a stalk, select a healthy and young stem on a cactus, and then, using a sharp knife, cut off a part 10-15 cm long.After that, the stalk must be removed on the windowsill or anywhere else, for 2-3 days, so that it dried out. After the stalk is ready for planting, make a small hole 2-3 cm deep in the finished pot and plant a seedling in it. When everything is done, take the sand and pour it into the pot in even layers, 1.5-2 cm thick.
Remember, the first watering of the cutting can be done only on the third day after planting.
Division
This method can be used when transplanting a cactus to a new location. When you remove the plant from the pot, shake its root system off the ground and see how much of the cactus can be removed. This is easy to do - the most important thing is that the part that you will separate has good and healthy stems, as well as whole roots.
As soon as you find such a part, separate it from the main plant with a knife, and sprinkle the cut points with ash or crushed charcoal. Next, plant the resulting plant in a pot like a regular cactus and start caring for it. Nothing complicated!
Diseases and pests
Unfortunately, Epiphyllum, like other cacti, is attacked by pests and diseases. Something can be cured, but there are also diseases that make themselves felt too late, when the plant is already dying. Below, the most common pests and diseases of Epiphyllum will be listed.
Mealybug- it is easy to recognize it - it is a white insect that leaves a plaque on the stems of the same white color. You can deal with it in different ways. The fastest way is spraying with a special preparation, but you can do without it. This requires alcohol and a cotton swab.
Soak the tip of a cotton swab in alcohol and go over all the places where there is a white coating, as well as on the insect itself. You can completely wipe the entire plant, this will only be a plus. After alcohol treatment, make a soapy solution and spray the cactus well with a spray bottle, then let stand for 10-15 minutes. Then, the plant should be rinsed with warm water.
Aphids, spider mites and scale insects Are another pests that are quite common on cacti. The best way to deal with them is treatment with special preparations, usually in two stages. The break between spraying is about 7-10 days, no more.
Black rot- you can determine the disease by the black spots that appear on the stems. Infected areas must be cut out, and if this is not possible, then completely remove the affected stem. All places of the cuts are sprinkled with ash, and the cactus is sprayed with a preparation.
Dry rot - the most insidious disease from which the plant cannot be saved. Signs of damage in the form of drying up stems appear too late, when nothing can be helped.
Rust - the main symptoms are brown and reddish spots that appear throughout the plant. The reason is improper watering, especially during dormant periods and low water temperatures. It is treated with a special treatment.
Fusarium - another disease associated with improper plant care. If the cactus porridge began to change color to burgundy or slightly reddish, then this is fusarium. The main reason is too frequent and excessive watering, which also affects root decay.
For treatment, you can use a special preparation, but, as a rule, the plant is dug up, all damaged roots are removed and transplanted into a new pot with new soil. Also, the first watering should be done no earlier than a week later and only with warm boiled water.
Basically, all diseases in Epiphyllum and not only are caused primarily due to improper care of the plant. At first glance, it only seems that the cactus is unpretentious in care, but in reality everything is different and it needs to be given due attention and provide the right conditions for development.
So, if your pet is attacked by fungi, it means that you are doing something wrong.
Useful video
Signs and superstitions
Since Epiphyllum is the same cactus, all folk signs and superstitions apply to it. Here are some of them:
- If a cactus has bloomed, then according to popular wisdom, it is worth waiting for an addition to the family or material wealth, and lonely people will find their soul mate.
- A cactus in the house protects from uninvited guests, evil spirits, evil eye, spoilage and bad energy.
- Presenting a cactus means separation. The people believe that if you receive a cactus as a gift, you can part with your beloved (s).
- Lonely girls who bring a cactus into the house drive away their happiness.
Believe in these signs or not - it is up to everyone to decide for himself, but opinions are divided among people, and for some, everything coincided, while for others it was the other way around. That's it.
That's all, beautiful cacti and good luck!
Epiphytic cacti 3.60 / 5 (72.00%) 5 votes
Many believe that or, at best, the mountainous woodlands of the American Andes. But it is not so. In the vast world of cacti, there is a group of epiphytes that grow in the humid forests of Central and South America (there are two or three species in other regions). In total, more than 200 species and forms are known.
Common types of epiphytic cacti
Among the epiphytic cacti there are well-known species: zygocactus (Zygocactus trunctatus), or, as it is also called, "Decembrist", or "Christmas cactus", and epiphyllum (Epyphillum sp.). The latter is familiar to many under the old name phyllocactus (literally "leafy cactus" - because of the unusual shape of the stem, resembling large flat leaves). Besides them, many species of Ripsalis (), Heliocereus and Selenocereus (, Selenocerus) are well known. Representatives of other, small genera in this group are less common.
Rhipsalis mesembryanthemoides - Rhipsalis mesembryanthemoides
Most of the species are hanging, long (up to 2-3m), cylindrical, three- or polygonal stems-lashes (heliocereus and selenoceruses) or small bushes of flat or twig-shaped segments (zygocactus, ripsalis, etc.). Some epiphyllums form multi-meter thickets of belt-like segment leaves.
Hatiora - Hatiora
In a terrarium, epiphytic cacti are convenient for keeping tropical animals (tree frogs, toads, slingshots, anoles, other small iguana lizards, geckos, tree snakes). Plants provide the animals with the necessary shelter, support when moving around the terrarium (most of them are very durable) and are very beautiful, especially during flowering, which can last more than a month.
When growing cacti of this group in a terrarium, it is advisable to place them on epiphytic driftwood or pieces of bark. Inhabitants of the humid tropics, they require relatively high temperatures (22-28 ° C) and 85-90% humidity. Low watering and daily spraying (on hot days - morning and evening) with warm (35-38 ° C) soft water is desirable. Once a week, the plants should be fed with a very weak solution of complex fertilizers, and once a month - with a slightly yellowish solution of mullein or chicken droppings kept in water for at least 15 days.
As the plants grow, they are thinned out, and individual segments are used to grow new cacti, especially since they root perfectly in wet sphagnum moss.