Build a furnace for home with your own hands. How to easily fold the furnace with your own hands

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us a wide range of metal furnaces and boilers, which from year to year is replenished with new and new models. But despite all their advantages, the owners of negassed houses continue to be a common brick oven - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What caused truly nationwide love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but also introduces the reader with various types of furnaces and technology of the construction of a brick type with their own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick furnace in the house

So, let's try to understand why the old heating device often turns out to be more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

The housing of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: thanks to this property, the brick furnace has to be treated much less often than the usual steel and even cast-iron. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while in the furnace of the metal furnace firewood need to toss every 4-6 hours.
The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to ecology than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and the almost complete decay of organic water molecules and carbon dioxide. Forming excess heat is absorbed by brick masonry and then gradually transmitted by the room.
The outer surface of the furnace is not heated to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this aggregate is softer than hot steel stoves. In addition, in contact with the hot metal, the dust contained in the air is burning, highlighting harmful volatile substances (you can learn about this characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, it is impossible to choose them, but they definitely harm their health.

The brick oven (it does not apply to stone) when heated it highlights steam, and when cooled, it absorbs again. This process is called the breath of the furnace. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - in the range of 40-60%. When working any other heating device, not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

The steel furnace excess warmth is nowhere to detect it, so it is necessary either often soak, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in mode. In the latter case, the time of work on one fuel laying increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large number of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to ecology - t. N. Heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to make sure that the brick oven gives a noticeable dark smoke only during the extracts, while from the chimney of the steel furnace, in which the fuel is tweaking, black smoke is constantly. This shortage is deprived of metal solid fuel heaters of long-term combustion (full-fledged, and not so-called gas generator furnaces, only imitating gas generation). But they are quite expensive, have a complex design and need power supply, without which the brick oven costs.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick stove warms up long enough. Therefore, homeowners are still recommended to get an additional steel convector, which warms the air in the forced mode while the furnace is to the steps.

It should also be considered that the brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built with the house. And doing this ideally should an experienced master who else needs to be found.

Application of brick stoves

The scope of application of furnaces by their main functions - heating and cooking is not limited. Here are some more tasks to solve such an aggregate:

Smoking meat and fish.
Spinding scrap metal (stove-Vagranka).
Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
Ceramic firing.
Heating blanks in a blacksmith workshop.
Maintain the desired temperature and humidity regime in the bath.

But in the houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick furnace: here she will have to breathe with putrefactive evaporations, which will lead to quick damage.

Varieties of facilities

The above scheme in various ovens can be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and Cap.

Holland

This scheme received the name channel sequential. Such a furnace is very easy to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted for any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish aggregate

Very good version of the heating and cooking furnace.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking furnace. The scheme is called chamber. The camera, the walls of which are washed with hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The channel convector is located behind the furnace and occupies the entire space from the floor to the ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

Efficiency at 60%;
in the overturn, you can install a heat exchanger for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the overlapping furnace;
the gase convector comes with relatively cold (they are expelled in the chamber part), so it is possible to use a building brick and a conventional cement-sandy solution for its construction;
convector with such a form heats the room for the entire height as possible evenly;
near the Swedish furnace you can quickly warm and dry if you open the door of the oven.

Furnaces of this type are complex in manufacturing, require very high-quality materials and need foundation.

Cap oven

Scheme with self-regulation: The flue gases go into the chimney only after complete exercise under the cap.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of more than 70%, but in the manufacture of this furnace is quite complex (high loads occur in the design). Yes, it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-Lenka

The scheme of the Russian oven, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector in it is not provided.

The scheme of the Russian oven, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector in it is not provided. The owner of the Russian oven wins in the following:

CPD reaches 80%;
the construction has an interesting appearance;
they become available to prepare such dishes of our national cuisine, which otherwise do not prepare in the Russian oven.

A Russian oven can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can spoil the design.

General device furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a camera with a door, in which fuel combines - the furnace (in the figure - position 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate grid (pos. 7), which places fuel and through which air flows into the furnace. Under grip, there is another chamber called as a roller or confused, which is also closed by the door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, the air outside the furnace falls into the oven and through it, the ash bar is removed from the roller.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases fall into Heilo (pos. 11) - the sloping canal directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a narrowing - nozzle. Next, a P-shaped channel is called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector are heated by air moving along the special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit, the door is installed (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney has the following items:

cleaning door (pos. 12): Through it is carried out cleaning the chimney channel;
the catch for adjusting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
bind (pos. 17): Also is a valve, through which after the extracts, when the entire carbon monoxide has already disappeared, overlap the chimney to hold heat.

The heat insulation surrounding the chimney in the zone of intersection of the attic overlap and roof is called a cutting (pos. 23). In the area of \u200b\u200bcrossing the overlap of the chimney wall are made thicker. Such a broader is called a flipper (pos. 21), it is also considered to be cut.

After crossing the roof, the smoke tube has another broadening - the otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate the gap between the roof and chimney.

Other positions:

1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
3 - legs or chances: For a furnace with such elements, less bricks need, besides, it has an additional heating surface;
5 - the beginning of a special air canal (drying), by means of which is achieved uniform heated room height;
10 - flue arch;
13 - the airborne convector, called a flow or pass;
20 - overlapping oven;
22 - attic overlap.

Preparation for the construction

Required materials, selection

When erecting the furnace, the following varieties of bricks are used:

Building ceramic brick (red). They laid out the lowest rows - the so-called subtopic part (the scheme indicates the oblique hatching), as well as the part of the chimney, in which the temperatures are below 80 degrees.
Chimney ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction has a higher quality (brand - M150) and withstands higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. It is possible to distinguish them in size: the dimensions of the furnace - 230x114x40 (65) mm, while the construction is 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lay out the heat (fiber) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching into the cell.
Chamotte brick. This material of the furnace is placed from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but this is not limited to its merits. Chamotal brick combines high heat capacity (is a very "roomy" heat accumulator) and as high thermal conductivity.

Note! In this case, it is impossible to use the facial brick.

Because of the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the heat part alone alternating bricks with one chamoten brick - the furnace will heat up too much and very quickly cool due to intensive thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with chick brick at least in the Pollipich.

Sizes of chamotte brick are the same as the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to determine the depth of color, but this method is valid only for those products, clay for which was mined in one place. If we compare chamotte clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well give up as light yellow.

A more reliable quality indicator is the absence of pores and extraneous particles distinguishable, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a high-quality sample - left). When climbing with a metal object, a high-quality chamotte brick must publish a ringing and clear sound, and when dropping from some height it splits into large pieces. Low-quality attack will be represented by deaf sounds, and when the fall will turn into a plurality of small fragments.

Also during the construction of the furnace apply the following solutions:

Cement-sandy: those parts of the furnace, which consist of conventional building bricks, are put on a conventional cement-sand solution.
Cement-sand high quality: This solution consisting of mountain sand and portland cement M400 and above are used if an irregular furnace furnace is supposed. The fact is that the referred clay solution with insufficient warm-up can appreciate moisture and deoxine again. That is why in areas with a temperature below 200-250 degrees (on the scheme - oblique hatching hatching) instead of the clay, a high-quality cement-sandy solution based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this way should only be treated if the oven during the cold weather will often stand up.
Clay solution. Mountain sand is also needed for this solution. For him, the absence of organic residues is characteristic, due to which the seams would quickly paint. But now buying dear mountain sand optional: excellent quality solutions are based on sand made of ground ceramic or chamotte brick.
High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in solution is eager to minimize.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, do this:

clay is soaked for a day, then mix it with water until it becomes similar to plasticine or thick dough;
selecting clay on portions, prepare 5 solution options: with the addition of 10% of sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
after a 4-hour drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder with a length of 30 cm and a diameter of 10-15 mm. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a 50 mm diameter.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the surface layer itself is suitable for any tasks; With a crack depth of 1-2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; With deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry, which includes:

trowel;
hammer-korcha;
cutting for seams;
the shovel for the solution.

The liver must have a rake-order. It has a cross section of 5x5 cm, the staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 coals in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the vertical of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method of calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires greater experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the house is well insulated outside the house. For 1 m 2 of the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace, the following heat transfer values \u200b\u200bare accepted:

under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
with severe frosts when the furnace is very intense (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, the furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface of 17.5 m 2, will produce 8.5 kW in normal mode, and in intensive - 13.3 kW heat. This productivity will be enough for the house of 80-100 m 2.

Extremely complicated and the calculation of the furnace, but today it is not necessary. Than to design and make homemade firebox, it is better to purchase it in the store ready: it is already calculated for all the rules and will cost cheaper.

When choosing a firebox, you need to consider the following:

The sizes and the location of the fastener should correspond to the si-part of the used brick.
For a furnace, which is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded firebox from sheet steel; For permanent use, you need to buy only a litter cast-iron furnace.
The depth of the ash mine (the lower escape of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber, if most of the time the oven will be treated with coal or peat, and one fifth - if the main fuel or pellets are the main.

The cross-section of chimneys corresponding to the standard requirements (direct vertical stroke, the height of the headband over the grate of a grate - from 4 to 12 m), is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNIVA, depending on the power of the furnace:

with heat transfer to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200kh200 mm;
from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200kh270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, so sometimes there may be a mismatch of the accepted cross section of the chimney and the productivity of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25-0.5 m.

To determine the number of bricks, empirical formulas were developed, but they give an error to 15%. The only way to perform an accurate calculation is manually - just to recalculate bricks in orders, which will take only about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate the oven in one of the computer programs intended for this. The system itself will specify the specification in which the exact amount of the whole bricks will be indicated, as well as cutting, shaped, etc.

Selection of Places, Schemes

The method of installation of the furnace depends on the size of the house and the location in it of various rooms. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a furnace will be qualitatively measured all the construction, and in the summer, with an open window, it can be quite comfortable to prepare.

In a large house with permanent accommodation, the furnace can be placed like this:

In this embodiment, the furnace-fireplace installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased stuffing of cast iron with a thermal resistant glass door.

And so the brick furnace can be installed in the house of the economy class:

Pondering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

The design numbering more than 500 bricks should have a private foundation that cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
The chimney should not come into contact with the beams of the attic overlap and the rafters of the roof. It should be borne in mind that in the zone of intersection of the attic overlap, it has a broader, called a flipper.
The minimum distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof is 1.5 m.

From the first rule there are exceptions:

A hob of a low and wide body equipped with a heating shield can be installed without a foundation if the gear is able to withstand the load of at least 250 kg / m 2.
In the house with a ribbon sectional foundation, the oven with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of the inner walls (including T-shaped). At the same time, the minimum distance from the chick foundation to the base of the foundation of the building is 1.2 m.
A small Russian oven is allowed to be erected on the basis of a wooden bar with a cross section of 150x150 mm (t. N. Omchie), based on the ground or bite laying of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consist in the foundation and installation of heat and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with a chance, a ribbon foundation is constructed under it, you can boob. The usual oven (without Shanntians) is erected on a monolithic reinforced concrete plate. On each side, the foundation should be for the outline of the furnace at least than 50 mm.

Insulating "Pie" is recruited in the following sequence:

on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers fill the ruberoid;
on top lay basalt cardboard with a thickness of 4-6 mm or the same sheet of asbestos;
next lay a sheet of roofing iron;
it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with a strongly diluted masonry solution.

The masonry can be started only after the upper layer sucks to the roofing gland.

Before the start of the masonry work on the floor in front of the future furnace, you need to build a non-controlled coating, which is usually laid on a lining from asbestos or basalt cardboard roofing sheet. One edge of the sheet presses the first next to the bricks, the rest are harvested and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must defend from the furnace at least 300 mm, while its side edges should go beyond the oven 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the friend

The furnace is put in accordance with the friend (see Fig.).

Store the following rules:

The seams between bricks in the heating and the flooding part can have a width of up to 13 mm, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: in a major side - to a width of 5 mm, to a smaller one - up to 2 mm.
Dressing seams between ceramic and chamotte masonry cannot be done - these materials are very different in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such sites, as well as around metal or concrete elements, give the maximum thickness (5 mm).
The masonry must be conducted with the dressing of the seams, that is, each seam should be overlapped with a neighboring brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
The calculation of each row begins with angular bricks whose position is checked with a level and plumb. That the verticality does not have to check each time, along the corners of the furnace stretch strictly vertically cords (for this you need to score nails into the ceiling and in the seams between bricks) and are in the future oriented.
The doors and valves are fixed in the masonry by means of a knitting wire laid in the seams, or with the help of curls made from steel strip 25x2 mm. The second option is for the furnace door (especially the upper part), oven and heat dampers: there will be a wire quickly.

Only the outer size of the chimney increases in the roller and extermination, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates sliced \u200b\u200bfrom brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney needs to be placed.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the body of the furnace is starting with a sub-optical part.

In the absence of sufficient experience, the ranks should first lay out without a solution and to align well, and only then shift the row to the solution. Also, novice masters are recommended to lay out the flooding part of the furnace in the formwork.
After laying the 3rd row, a confusion door is installed on it.
It should be exhibited by level. For sealing the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
Next lay out the heat, for which they use a furnace and chamotte brick.
Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by lowering in water capacity, then smooth. Wetting chamotte brick not only is not required, but not allowed. Solution Many people are applied by hand, since the Kelma put a thin layer with a thickness of 3 mm not easy. Brick need to immediately put correctly, not correlacing and not going down. If it was not possible to do it from the first time, the operation should be repeated, pre-removing the solution smeared to the brick - it is impossible to use it.
After laying a few more rows, the rollercan chamber is overlapped with a grate grid. It should lie on chammed bricks in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
Install the flue door - in the same order, in which the door was put to pondering.
Put the rows of the furnace part. If a low plate is erected, then a row of bricks over the heat door must be somewhat moving back so that they are not tilted with a heavy cast-iron web when opening it.
The furnace chamber overlaps with a hob or arch (in pure heating furnaces). The slab on the solution due to a significant difference in the thermal expansion between the cast iron and the clay cannot be laid - under it you need to put asbestos cord.
Next continues the masonry of the furnace according to the order, drawing up the gas convector system. So that the soot gathered at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (pensions) should be 30-50% more than the top (they are called passes). The edges of the pass should be rounded.

Having finished the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of formation of vault

Arches are two species:

flat: Vaults of this type are laying from the shaped bricks in the same way, but instead circled a flat pallet. A flat arch has one feature: it should be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will very soon crumbling. Therefore, even the cook with sufficient experience, this part of the furnace builds with the use of purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
semi-curvous (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called Crooked:

Start from installation on a solution of extreme reference blocks - swees, which pre-trim according to the drawing of the arch-made in full size.
After drying, the solution is installed grinding and laid the wings of the arch.
Castle stones are poured with a purulent or wooden hammer, pre-applying a thick layer of solution. At the same time, the solution of wings laying is extruded: if the masonry was performed without disorders, this process will take place evenly throughout the total.

Crooked should be removed only after complete drying of the solution.

The angle between the axes of neighboring bricks in the semi-curvous arch should not exceed 17 degrees. With the standard sizes of the blocks of the seam between them inside (from the furnace side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

So that the furnace was economical, it must be maintained in good condition. The crack of the width of only 2 mm in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to the uncontrolled air flow through it.

Turn the oven is also needed correctly. With a highly open confusion, it can fly into a pipe from 15 to 20% of heat, and if the fuel door will be opened during burning, then all 40%.

Firewood, which is token by the furnace must necessarily be dry. To do this, they need to harm the ahead. Raw firewood gives less heat, and besides, due to the abundance of moisture in the chimney, a large amount of acid condensate is formed, which intensively destroys the brick walls.

So that the furnace warmed uniformly, the thickness of the lane should be the same - about 8-10 cm.

Firewood is laid by rows or cells so that the gap of 10 mm remains between them. From the top of the fuel laying to the top of the furnace, the distance of at least 20 mm should remain, even better if the firebox is filled with 2/3.

Rizhane the bulk of fuel produce rays, paper, etc. Use acetone, kerosene or gasoline is prohibited.

After the extracts, you need to block the view so that the heat does not eat through the chimney.

When setting up the thrust during the extracts, you need to navigate the flame color. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; If it became white - the air is served with an excess and much of heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color speaks about the lack of air - fuel burns not completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are thrown into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot)

Cleaning and repairing furnaces are usually performed in summer, in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Saya is an excellent heat insulator and with its large amounts the furnace will become less efficient.

With a grain grille, the ash must be removed before each furnace.

Tracting in the furnace, which means that its work is regulated by a support, a valve and a confusion door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. With any malfunctions or wear, it should be repaired or replaced.

Video: how to fold the furnace with your own hands

Whatever the brick furnace option you choose, it will work efficiently only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, friendship between them will not.

The furnace heating is not going to hurt himself at all. Wood stoves made of bricks continue to build not only the owners of rustic houses, but also the owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire the Master-bugs for the construction yes to buy the necessary materials. The only way to save is to fold the brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the coaches presented below in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-collocked stove with a bed is not a newcomer, but the source of the heat of a simple design will be overcome.

Simple brick furnaces

The first thing to be concerned is to choose a home heater project that can satisfy your warmth needs. We offer 3 options simple structures tested in the work of many years of practice:

Channel heating stove, so-called holland;
cooking stove with oven and tank connected to water heating or DHW;
Swedie - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Channel stove - Holland

Alone to fold the Dutch shown in the picture, quite simple. It differs in small dimensions in the plan, but it can be put into height in the height of it, the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to warm up a two-storey house of a small area or a cottage, if you build a dutch with a pass through the overlap. The channel stove successfully burns the firewood of various quality and satisfactorily heats the premises, although they won't call it economical.

Reference. Holland is quickly warming up, and after the attenuation, it is not long enough, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Her strong side is the simplicity of construction and inconspiciency in fuel.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a cottage house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. The tank mounted on the path of hot flue gases is able to serve hot water for the heating system or economic needs.

Swedish brick furnaces combine the merits of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, they give the accumulated heat for a long time and they work equally well on firewood and coal. But the laying of the Swedet is not an example more difficult than the hob plus more brick and purchased iron accessories.

Swedish oven built into between the walls

Drawings and coaches

Furnace coach - Dutch

Holding scheme in context

The order of masonry of the hob

Schematic device plate
Swedish furnace order

Any brick furnace transfers heat into the room with two ways: with the help of infrared radiation from hot walls and through air heating circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it is in the heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some tips on choosing a place to build in a rural house and in the country:

If you need to heat one big room, then the stove is better lay out in the middle, with a little displacement towards the outer wall, where the cold goes from.
For heating 2-4 adjacent premises, the construction needs to be placed in the center of the building, dismantling some of the interior partitions.
Suppose 1-2 small rooms are adjacent to the hall. There you can conduct water heating with radiators and circulating pump connected to the furnace heat exchanger or Baku.
Do not plan to put the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them, part of the heat will just go outside.
The cooking surface and oven must go into the kitchen, and the rudeness is in the living room or bedroom.

Council. Placing the heater in the center of the private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the lip of the roof. It is better to shift the structure by 20-40 cm and remove the pipe through one of the roofing rods.

Partitions and floors of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the body of the furnace, subsequently need to be protected by metal sheets. It is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions concern only the wooden elements of the roof located near the chimney.

Preparation of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with their own hands is a red ceramic brick. It should be high-quality and necessarily full, stones with emptiness inside in the bary do not apply, except for the construction of street mangals and barbecue.

Council. Holland is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made of red bricks, used. Only upon completion of the masonry it will have to be created, for example, to put the tile or come up with a beautiful tile decor.

To fold a small-sized oven - Dutch, it is necessary to prepare such materials and accessories:

Red burned brick - minimum 390 pcs.;
grill grate with a size of 25 x 25 cm;
Door loading 25 x 21 cm;
Small cleaning doors and ponded 14 x 14 cm;
Metal valve 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be postponed any required height. The specified number of bricks is enough for a construction in a single-storey private house.

List of components and building materials for the hob:

Full-time ceramic brick - 190 pcs.;
grate grille 25 x 5 cm;
Two-circuit cast iron plate size 53 x 18 cm with disks;
Door of the fuel chamber 25 x 21 cm;
Metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
brass cabinet 32 \u200b\u200bx 27 x 40 cm;
Doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
chimney valve;
Steel corner of 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

In order to save money, the manufacture of a tank for heating water You can take on yourself - simply cook it from metal thick 3, and better - 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, put the coil stove inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But it must be remembered that in such a water circuit you need to organize a permanent circulation using a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly priece.

For the construction of the heating and cooking Swedish furnace you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Only take the corner more - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip of 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (chamoten) brick on the fuel laying. To install accessories, find the soft wire made of steel with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Council on masonry solution. Preparation of natural clay, on which experienced burns produce styling bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay and sand mixes for the construction of furnaces.

Bookmark Fundament

Before folding the furnace, it is necessary to prepare a solid base. The construction is rather heavy, so put it directly to the floors, even poured cement tie, is unacceptable. The foundation of the stove is a built-in structure that does not touch with the base of the building. If you build a brick heater near the walls or build an angular fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum lumen of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then for the furnace of the furnace foundation it is recommended to follow the next step-by-step instructions:

Remove the screed area and drop the pit, protruding the oven for 50 mm in each direction. Depth depends on the power of the upper layer of the sedimentary soil.
Put a sand pillow with a height of 100 mm and sink it. To the top fill the pit with a boot stone or broken brick, after which they pour with liquid cement mortar.
After frozen, laid the waterproofing layer from the frontieroid and install the formwork protruding over the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare concrete and pour the foundation plate. For strength there, you can lay the reinforcement grid.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete solidification of the concrete mixture), put on the finished base of the roofing sheet, and from above - felt, impregnated with clay solution or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

Scheme of the base device during wooden floors

To properly lay the foundation of the furnace under the wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of the concrete slab, lay out the walls of the red brick (used) to the level of floor covering. Emptiness inside with boot or rubble and concrete on top. Next - sheet metal, spatial felt clay and a solid first series of oven masonry. Get more information on the topic you can watching the video

Despite the fact that in very many today are those or other heating systems, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and folk crafts are being developed by all new furnace models, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, the furnace heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it will be able to rescue the owners in different situations. For example, in the fall or in the spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to include autonomous heating, the drowning oven will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them from excessive humidity. The oven will help maintain the optimally favorable atmosphere and the temperature balance, comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query about how to fold the oven with your own hands the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not come down from the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who do not have the experience of the liver, show the desire to try their strength in this craft. If it is decided to install the furnace in the house with its own forces, then beginners it is recommended to choose a simple version of this facility with an understandable order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, it is designed for heating. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what I would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick stoves

There are several main types of furnaces - some of them perform only one main task - this is heated at home, others are used only for cooking, and the third includes several functions in their "set of features". Therefore, in order to decide on the desired model, you need to know what is each of the species.

The construction is capable of not only to warm one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil the water. If the model is equipped with a brass cabinet and drying niche, then the possibility of bake bread appears, and peel vegetables and fruits for the winter.

The heating and cooking furnace is often embedded in the wall or itself performs the role of the wall - for this it is rotated by a slab and a firebox in the direction of the kitchen, and the back wall in the residential area of \u200b\u200bthe house. You can solve two problems immediately - the heating of the premises and the possibility of cooking in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, the furnace will work not only as a functional structure, but it will become a decorative decoration of the house.

The heating variety of furnaces is designed only for the heating of the rooms at home. Some models have not only a fiber chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the furnace can function in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are involved both simultaneously. Most often, the heating stoves are embedded in the wall between the rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, separating it into zones.

Such a building is being built for both the main heating of the house and as an additional, which is used in the spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. The heating furnaces are usually established when the kitchen has already implemented its ability to prepare food, or in a large total area of \u200b\u200bthe house, where several furnaces perform various functions.

In the country area in a small house, it is better to establish a multifunctional structure that can help immediately in several situations.

The cooking furnace is erected in the kitchen, and its design is designed for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it and heating capabilities, since its entire body, the rear wall and the cast iron stove are well warmed, giving heat and room.

The main function of this stove - cooking

The cooking furnace is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in the country or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact, but functional unit, one can exclude the risk to frozen or remain without dinner and hot tea, even if the electro- and gas supply is turned off.

A lot of different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be completely miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models before stocking materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw it the base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to install it. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much the free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the furnace?

So that the furnace worked effectively and maximally gave heat into the premises of the house, and was also a fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this moment if the furnace is embedded in the finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling overlap beams, and accidentally do not stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The furnace brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. What place it is better to choose - will be considered further.

To get the maximum effect from the furnace, you should not install it near the outer wall of the building, as it will cool quickly and can hardly be able to heat more than one room.
Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or shifting it from it in one or the other side. This location is selected if the room is required to divide into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure can have a different decorative finish, made in the style corresponding to the design of a particular area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Quite often, the furnace is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the heat generated as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, the ceiling and the attic overlap at the location of the passage
When choosing a place of installation, it is necessary to envisage that each of the sides of the foundation under the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the base of the furnace itself.
To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the furnace, it is recommended to always select the model to which the order scheme is applied.

By choosing and place for its installation, you can acquire all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the furnace model, and masonry tools are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work it will be necessary to prepare a very "solid" set of tools.

From the tools for masonry brick and fill the foundation, you will need:

Rule - This tool is used to align the surface of the basement with concumen.
Kirk's hammer is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
Veel is a wooden blade, which is used for rubbing the clay and lime solution.
The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and removing the dried, speaking outside the masonry of the solution.
Makeup made of urine is intended to clean the internal furnace channels from sand and solution in them.
The lead drain is needed for marking in the event that the furnace is separated by tiles.
The construction level is necessary to control the levels of rows and the surface of the walls.
The diaper is the rod applied for marking.
The plumb is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
Building corner with a ruler to verify the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
Pliers are used to bend and bite the wire for fixing the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the seams of masonry.
Raspil - This tool is used to remove the influx and wrecking lumps in the dried masonry.
The chisel is used to split the brick and the parsing of old masonry.
The rubber hammer is necessary for the alignment of the brick-labeled solution.
(Trusks) of different sizes are used to apply a solution when laying bricks and removing the mixture speaking from seams.
Fishing - a tool for aligning the solution in the seams of masonry. It is used if the laying is produced "under the extection", without further lining.
Manual tamping will be required to seal the soil and layers of frustration in the pit for the foundation.
Capacities for kneading the solution and pure water.
Sieve with a metal mesh for sand sifting.

Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device has sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the wizard, but also for the installation of a container filled with a solution.

Foundation arrangement for brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually preparing together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, and even more so - to be combined into a single design. New foundations, as a rule, give a shrinkage that can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will pull the damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.

In the event of an end of the oven in the already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the furnace will be installed, the floorboards will have to be removed, drinking the hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected furnace model is not too massive, then the design can be erected on it, the material for waterproofing is pre-installed.

The foundation should be in the form of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its parties is made greater than the furnace at 100 ÷ 150 mm.

If the floor in the wooden house, it makes the markup on which the boards will be peeling.
Then in the soil of the sample in the form of the future foundation rotates, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
The bottom of the pit is rambling, and its walls are lined with a polyethylene film or rubberoid.

Then, a sand pillow is 100 ÷ 150 mm thick on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted with a manual tamper.
The next layer, on top of the sand, is falling asleep rubbing, which, too, if possible, is rambling. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
Next, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or rubberoid remain inside it, and then fixed on the walls using a stapler and brackets. This waterproof material will keep the solution flooded into the formwork, not giving to leave it moisture, which will give the plate the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of "clean" floor, that is, the finished base will need to put two rows of bricks so that it rises to the floor with the floor.
Some wizards in order to save brick, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution consists also in a simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor coating.
The next step in the formwork, for its entire height, the reinforcement grille is installed, made of 4 ÷ 6 mm thick with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The bars are associated with a wire twist.
Further, in the lower part of the formwork, a rough concrete solution, mixed from cement and gravel, can be pouring into a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm in the proportions of 1: 3, or cement, rubble of the middle fraction with the addition of sand in a 1: 2 ratio: 1. But, In principle, a conventional concrete solution from sand and cement can be used.
If the coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for its setting, the thinly mixed solution is laid on top.
The flooded is aligned with the rule on the upper facets of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to put and drown on 15 ÷ 20 mm into the solution of the reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.

The surface of the foundation is resurrected again, and, if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork, on top of the grid.
Further, the foundation leaves to stick and recruit strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layer of the flooded solution. So that concrete is more durable, recommended daily during the first week, starting from the second day, spray it with water.
From the top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing, consisting of two or three rubber carriad sheets, which are stacked by one to another.

To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make marking on the waterproofing material, denoting the location of the base of the furnace. Due to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to assemble the first row of bricks and observe the solidity of the parties and the corners.

After these preparatory work, you can go to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced masters, starting the laying unfamiliar to this design, first produce it dry, that is, without a solution. This process helps to figure out the intra channels of the furnace and do not make mistakes during the main masonry. Every majority rises dryly, each of the rows should be posted in accordance with the furnace applied to the model.

Performing dry masonry, it is necessary to observe the thickness of horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to withstand the same throughout the masonry, you can use 5 mm thick racks. Of course, the vertical seams will be difficult to measure with small segments of the ridges when drunk dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, the rails need to be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the design, you can see the real height of the furnace.

As an example of using the RESEK, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is performed under the extection, and will not be further separated by additional decorative materials.

Mastering dry, it is important to understand the channel configuration through which the smoke will go from the furnace, and climb the pipe. If, when laying out this passage, an error will be made, you will have to shift a part or even the entire design of the furnace, as the reverse thrust can be formed, and the room smoke will go.

Having lifted the oven dryly before the laying of the chimney pipe, the design disassemble. Moreover, if the ranks used not only as well, but also their small fragments, then when disassembling, each of the rows can be folded in a separate stack, putting a number of rows on one of the bricks. Sometimes, additionally, the brick number is also affixed in each of the ranks. Such a system will accelerate the work, since all the material will be fitted and decomposed in the right order, and will remain only to soak it alternately and put into the ranks of the furnace, but already per solution.

Performing basic masonry, two rails are installed on the edges of the previous series, between which the solution of 60 ÷ 70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is put on it, aligns and embarrassment until it is stored in the rail. It is necessary to have such calibration devices into three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after grapping the solution. So, laying out three rows, the rails pull out of the lowest seam, clean and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no confidence that the vertical seams are the same thickness, for them you can also prepare a short rail, which will be rearranged in the next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

After pulling out the calibration peeks from the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, which is cleaned by a trowel, and then put in order using the bunch.

Processing of seams "under the extection"

If the calibration rails laid out of both edges of the brick, then the inner side of the wall will also leave the recesses between the seams. They are also needed to carefully close, since the seams should be hermetic, filled with a solution across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, performing masonry on the solution, check each of the placed rows by the construction level so that the entire design does not occur.

Such simple auxiliary devices, as calibration rails, will help perform the masonry gently with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire furnace surface will look like the design is made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid errors that can lead to the need to rewar throughout work.

Brick stove construction schemes

O. O. Proskurin with Hepiculture and Hall Functions and Drying Chamber

A model developed by the engineer Y. Solkurin can be called one of the simplest structures of the heating and cooking furnaces, which even a novice master can be mastered. Despite the compact sizes of the structure, the stove is able to fulfill all the functions necessary for a small home, since it is equipped with a hob and a chamber for drying, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water tank.

Such a furnace is able to warm one or two rooms with a total area of \u200b\u200b17 ÷ 20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms at home. At the same time, it is definitely necessary to orient in such a way that the design is deployed to the stove toward the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows for the warm season to use only the hob, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full-fledged protostka is 1700 kcal / h.

The following materials will be required to build this heating structure:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (pcs.)	Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry)	281 ÷ 285.	250 × 120 × 65
Chamotte brick refractory brand sh-8	82 ÷ 85.	250 × 120 × 65
Opening door	1	210 × 250.
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140 × 140.
Door for confused	1	140 × 250.
Summer stroke valve for chimney	1	130 × 130.
Flashing	1	130 × 130.
Hob	1	130 × 130.
Colonnik.	1	200 × 300.
Single-mounted cooking panel	1	410 × 340.
Steel band	1	40 × 260 × 5
	1	40 × 350 × 5
	1	40 × 360 × 5
Steel corner	1	40 × 40 × 635
	3	40 × 40 × 510
	4	40 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron	1	380 × 310.
Foremost metal sheet	1	500 × 700.

To fill the foundation it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, rubberoid, reinforcement rod or steel wire with a thickness of 5 ÷ 6 mm. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber on the hot water tank, you will have to purchase or make it.

So that work has passed successfully, before it began, it is strongly recommended to learn my friend very carefully, and in the process of masonry to keep this scheme is always at hand.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several cuts. Here you can clearly consider how the chimney channels pass inside the design, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney pipe.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration submitted on the scheme. The row should be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its proper masonry. The series consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the form of the ash bar is laid (a subpend chamber) and the bottom part of the two channels that will be vertically. Laying the row, leave the openings to install the door of the pensive and the clean cameras. On the same row they are installed. The row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In the cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided in which the harvested segments of the wire are inserted. Further, their ends twist together and fit into the seams between the side walls. To make the door not shifted from the installation site until its fully fixation, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. It raises the walls of the pensive and the cleft chamber, and in the seams between the rows of bricks, the ends of the wire are fixed, with which the doors are fixed. For the masonry of the row, there will be 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The camera of vertical channels is divided into two, as they will be laid out separately. Channel cross-section over their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, this row is overlapping the installed door. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made by refractory chamotted brick, as it is the formation of the lower part of the furnace. In bricks that determine the place of laying a grate grid, from the inner of their edge, is made at right angles. The cutout size should be approximately 10 × 10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are stacked above the infideling chamber. For the masonry of the row, 16 chamotte bricks will be required.
	After that, in the fifth row in the prepared deepening in bricks, a grate is established. It is sometimes mounted on a clay solution, but often - completely without a solution. In the latter case, the gaps between the grid and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. The laying is carried out only with chamotte brick. The series consists of 12 chamotte bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, the coil door is mounted, which, as well as confusing, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, the coil door before installation is equipped with not only wire mounts, but also wrapped around the perimeter asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a heat gap, which will allow expanding the metal during its strong heating.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to a co-order scheme. During their laying, the walls of the furnace continue to rise and the vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the ranks goes firstwarding.
	When laying a ninth row, the door of the furnace chamber overlaps. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, with bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the heat chamber are cut under the same angle of 30˚. These sections will serve as a peculiar stand for the middle brick cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should be perfectly signed between two extreme bricks. 12 chammatory bricks will be required to the row.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with an extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace went to this hole. In order to provide the smoothness of the stroke of hot air, on the middle brick, separating the flue hole and the closed channel, the cutting corner is made. For this row, 11 chamotte bricks will be required.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry, going around the heat chamber, is distinguished by the fact that it uses bricks with a cut-out bricks at 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed to lay the cooking panel. For masonry will need 11 chamotte bricks.
	After the 11th row is posted, the step on the bricks will be supplied with asbestos stripes or layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (under the condition of the thickness of the cooking panel in 5 mm). These gaskets will serve as a pillow and a thermal gap for the hob. Then, a cooking panel is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the angular part of the masonry is strengthened with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, the masonry will be made only with red bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and again closes the jumper open earlier vertical channel. For the masonry of this series you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel is formed a place to install a gate, designed to switch the furnace modes to a winter or summer course. To do this, cutches are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sandy solution. The row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	The 14th ÷ 18th row - for each of them it will take 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber overlaps three steel corners, which form the basis for the masonry of the following rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is set at a distance from it in 250 mm (the size of the brick), and the third corner of the back side is pressed to the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it, 12 bricks overlap the cooking chamber, but the hill of the hood of the steam is formed above it, in which the valve will be installed. To install this item in the edges of bricks installed on three sides, cuts are made, and from the external brick is removed by layer, making it thick less. Further on the prepared platform on the clay solution fixes the valve.
	The 20th row is postponed according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is overlapped, and channel holes are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is shy for a smooth flow of heated air. For a number it will take 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and a hole for the vapor chamber pair is combined into the overall space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth care of steam into the chimney pipe. For masonry you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row it is overlapping the resulting space with steel stripes, which will provide the basis for the installation of the metal plate and the masonry of the following rows.
	The next step, which is performed on the same row is the installation of a plate of roofing iron. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located in the opposite side from the window to exit the steam from the hob.
	On the 22nd row of brick masonry, a metal plate is overlapped. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only channel holes remain open. Then, from the outside of the furnace, a metal corner is installed, which will strengthen the front of the bottom of the drying chamber. It will take 15 bricks on the laying of a row.
	The 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its rear wall makes out of the brick installed side - it will separate the camera from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels are formed, as well as the drying chamber.
	The 25th row - the work continues according to the scheme, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, vertical channels are prepared for combining into one space, so for the direction of smoke in the desired direction of bricks in the vertical channels are cut under a small angle. For laying a number, 11 bricks will be required.
	On the 27th row, with a masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a clear door is installed on this general camera. The rear wall of the drying chamber rises another brick, which is installed on the side. The series consists of 11 bricks.
	On a 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, a masonry is performed according to a scheme similar to 27 nearby. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, all practically the area overlaps with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. It is left open only a hole above the drying chamber, where the valve will be installed in sections made on bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making less than its thickness. In the arrangement of the "nest" on the clay solution is installed valve. The series consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely overlaps the surface of the furnace. The exception is only the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half the brick.
	For 31 ÷ 32rd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to produce independently, then work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with full responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to all the recommendations and the provided scheme-co-order, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of masonry a miniature brick furnace for a country house.

Video: Compact brick oven for small kitchen

For giving heating today there are many options: centralized gas, boilers, electrical heaters. But if all this is not realized is possible due to the remoteness of the area from civilization, the stove for the cottage from the brick will become a great solution.

Reliable and durable - she will collect around themselves not one generation of households, providing a house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

Services of a good cook - the pleasure is not cheap. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick furnace project at the cottage, you will be useful for you to read this article in which we will tell about the principle of work, features and scheme of furnace construction.

A brick furnace can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior, if it is correct to beat. Today there are many ways to allow you to bust and decorate a stone stove.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first furnace structures and, no matter how far the heating technologies have not entered, the stone stove does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to keep the warmth of the day after cutting firewood.

In its appointment, the furnaces are divided into the following types:

heating;
cooking;
multifunctional;
combined.

the heat chamber, which is already purchased in the finished form, is either laid out with chamoten brick;
asolnik, where the ashes is going;
chimney.

In the same type of design, a fireplace with an open or closed firebox can be attributed. It is used not only in decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively warm the room with an area of \u200b\u200b15-20 kV. meters.

Depending on the material selected, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating furnaces can have different heat recovery.

The most popular view of the furnace is a design with masonry in one brick. This allows you to warm the walls to 60 0 S. According to this scheme, the famous Dutch furnaces are laid out.

In terms of dimensions, the heating furnace can be wide and selected, and may have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the style of the interior and the personal preferences of the owners.

For lining such a furnace, a tile tile, decorative plaster, decorative stone is usually used.

A brick heating furnaces in the form of a trilateral prism look very stylish and originally, but this option will not be implemented, since there is a lot of experience. Much complexity represents trimming bricks and the requirements for holding the angle strictly under 60 0.

There are beautiful and unusual and round ovens, which are laid out according to the scheme of a well-known Russian engineer in a chimney of V.E. Gruum-Grizielo. The furnace works on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the construction is plated from the outside. Such a furnace is able to warm up a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the furnace consists of a brick case, inside of which the heat chamber is located, the ash bar, chimney. From above is the metal plate (the oven) can be built).

Heating and cooking furnace already refers to multifunctional structures.

This is a more complex project in implementing, as it consists of:

floor chamber;
chimney;
ash bar;
hob;
oven.

The furnace looks massively and is usually chosen for cottages, where the other version of heating is not provided.

In our country, heating and cookies enjoy the greatest popularity, allowing both the house to protrud, and make a delicious lunch for the whole family.

It can be additionally provided with a drying chamber where you can make blanks for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and crude weather, in this chamber you can quickly and safely dry clothes, shoes.

By the way, the ovens with drying cameras were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where the hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes, boots in one night.

Many of the schemes of heating and cooking furnaces have additional devices in the form of a comfortable bed, drying for firewood, oven, water tank.

Device furnace for giving and its features

The main elements of any brick oven for the cottage are:

10 Basic Rules for Country Furnace

What brick stove to choose for giving?

The choice of furnace design causes the size and type of room. For large cottages, a massive chimney with thick walls will be required, which will be heated for a long time, but at the same time it will be able to hold the temperature for a long time. Fold such a furnace - the task is not simple. Here you will need some experience and knowledge.

But with a small stove for heating a small cottage, even a beginner can cope, if you follow a clear scheme and not change the masonry rules.

In the first place in popularity of heating and cookies, a Swede is adequately located, which enjoys deserved love and respect among Russian People.

This design is a compact ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface, a three-channel chamber. It is perfect for a small summer cottage, length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a furnace, the place between the kitchen and the living room is most often selected. Thus, the oven performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorate the living room by the fireplace.

On the Internet today you can find hundreds of various laying schemes of the Swedish oven with a cooking surface, so it will not be difficult to implement for the cottage. Many people made additional options in the standard layout scheme, so each design is called by the name of its creator: Buselaev furnace, Kuznetsova, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian oven can be called a bulky massive design, which adorns not only the cooktop with a brass cabinet, but also a spacious laying.

This furnace is already not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place to relax. It allows you to warm up the room, while holding the heat for a long time, has a beneficial effect on the human body, so the owners of such furnaces are less susceptible to colds.

Building usually has two fireboxes (main and extra). Thanks to the special design of the furnace, the heating is uniformly, from the bottom up. Any solid fuel is suitable for extracts, and especially strict requirements are not presented to the materials for masonry of the Russian furnace.

A special place among small heating and cookies is taken by Malytka V.A. Potapova, created by the famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. For her masonry you need only 211 bricks, and oven dimensions are only 630 * 510 mm.

At the same time, such a little girl accommodates a single-industrial plate, a small oven for baking and extract. Such a furnace will become an excellent solution for a small garden house or cottage in one room.

In this article, we suggest you to explore the rules and highlights of masonry with a small heating and cooking furnace.

Stove laying with their own hands

Step 1. Choose a brick and prepare tools

What brick for laying a small country furnace to choose? We will need 2 types of bricks: chamoten (heat-resistant) for the construction of fireboxes and red ceramic (not lower than M-150). Do not save on materials, further operational properties depend on this, safety and efficiency of the furnace.

Chamotte brick can easily learn on yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumb. This material, besides its heat-resistant properties, is even due to the ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the fulfillment of firewood, such a stove is able to give heat for a long time.

The heat-resistant chamotte brick is able to withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the coil chamber should be laid out exclusively from this material.

The smaller the mass of chamotte brick, the greater the number of pores contains that aluminum oxide creates. Such a brick will be very cool. The cost of this material is almost 5 times the price of red bricks, but no need to save.

But it is not worth uploading the whole furnace from chamotte brick, the outer part of the design is not very hot, and it looks like a red ceramic brick more attractive.

When choosing a brick for a furnace, pay attention to the color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters, and it will not split - take this batch. But the bad, the overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick in the fall makes a deaf sound.

Brick brand for facing the furnace should be M150 or M200. The figure in this case means which weight brick is withstanding 1 cm 3.

Do not take a silicate and hollow brick. It's not even in the ability to withstand a high temperature - they will cope with this. Silicate brick does not spend heat and in a room with such a furnace will not be very comfortable.

For a masonry solution, we will need sand, red chimney clay and water. The appearance and durability of the furnace directly depends on its quality and consistency. For its preparation, the red furnace clay of the medium fluid should be used. In the frozen form, he should not fall, crumble.

The masonry will be produced with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in which case the precious heat will not quickly leave.

Also for construction, you can use the ready-made masonry solution, which is sold in stores. Usually in its composition there are various impurities that add strength and heat resistance of the design. In this case, it will be enough to dissolve a dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state with a construction mixer.

By consistency, such a solution should resemble a thick sour cream. If the solution rolls with a trowel, you must add a dry mixture. If he turned out to be too thick, it will be difficult to work with it and perform thin seams. Add some cold water and mix again.

So, for the construction of a furnace, we will need the following materials:

Masonry solution (sand, red chimney clay).
Red ceramic brick M150 - 120 pieces.
Chamotte brick - 40 pieces.
Material for foundation (cement, graphi, sand).
Ruberoid.
Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
Plywood or boards for creating a formwork.
Reinforcing mesh to arrange the foundation.
Grate.
Metal plate on one mosquito (cast iron).
Solnik and the door of the ash bar (pissed).
Cast iron door for firebox.
The catch of the chimney channel.
Chimney view.
Metal cap on chimney.

Tools that will be needed for the construction of the furnace.

Building level.
Soviet shovel.
Construction marker.
Coromet.
Spatula, rule.
Master OK.
Measuring tape (roulette).
Construction plumb.

Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of clay. Ideally use the red river clay of medium fat, which was outdoors at least 2 years. Do exactly so much solution as you can master for "1 okay". The solution quickly becomes thick, and it becomes hard to work with it.

Step 2. Ready Brick for Masonry Furnace

Before embarking on the masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to decompose the entire brick in advance and prepare it according to the co-order scheme.

This stage includes brick division on ½ or ¼ parts, shy at the corners.

Carefully learn the scheme and see what parts of the bricks will be needed for each row.

If necessary, you can then numbered the brick so that later it was easy to navigate, in which row to insert it.

How to split a brick? Before you "discard" the necessary part of the brick, according to the scheme, you first need to perform a groove. This can be performed using a hacksaw or a file.

To make ½ bricks - spend 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, perform a furrow from all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a place for the furnace

This is a very important stage in the furnace bookmark, which is advisable to produce even at the construction stage of the house.

But there are cases when the decision on the furnace laying arises from household owners already during the operation of the cottage. In this case, determine the place where the chimney is easier to withdraw.

It is also important to estimate the distance between the furnace and windows and doors. After all, the cold air strangles from the door can prevent the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the oven should not interfere with the free move around the room. It should become one whole with space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the furnace depends on the destination.

The heating and cooking model is best spaced in the kitchen, and the furnace-fireplace will look beautiful in the living room.

The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
The chimney should not pass through the beams.
The floor and the wall will have to be faced with fire-resistant material.
The fireplace is better spaced near the inner wall of the house. To increase the efficiency, it makes sense to install the oven in the space between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, one furnace will dump two rooms at once.

An excellent place to accommodate the furnace is the angle of the room, only if the front door is not located opposite the corner, from which the cold air will be blown in the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

To build a brick oven, it is necessary to perform a separate foundation. If it is laid on one cycle with the construction of the house - to perform it is not a difficult task.

If you made a decision on masonry furnaces after the completion of general construction, then it will be necessary to shoot a part of the first floor and plunge into the soil.

Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? Brick oven, whatever size it, has a lot of weight, which will create a large pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will see. This in no way should affect the form and design of the furnace.

That is, the overall foundation of the house should not pull the stove behind them, as this can lead to a disruption of its sealing and deterioration of technical properties.

Attention! Before performing masonry bricks per solution, spread all the brick "on dry". First, it will allow you to see if you have a material. And secondly, you can still see the difficult moments on which special attention will have to pay.

Step 5. Masonry Furnace

Attention! Before masonry oven, lower bricks in a basin with cold water so that they absorb moisture. So they will not pull water from the masonry solution.

Fill this gap with sand. All under the furnace will almost be taken by grinding, which will ensure good and simple furnace care, as well as the complete root of firewood.

Overlapping the door to the door pissed.

Installation of the furnace door

We establish a flue door, after waking it with an asbestos cord. To make it easier to mount it, put the door onto the thick wire and on both sides, bring bricks. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

6th row. Closes the flue door.

Here, we begin to form a flue channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

Layout the base of the furnace, which is performed from chamotte brick.

With 7-9 row lay out the furnace chamotted brick according to the scheme.

In this row, two bricks overlapping the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

10 row - overlapping the oven. Create from brick a partition, lifting it by 2 cm. On the oven, to the level of the partition, we apply a clay-sandy solution. Prepare a place to install the hob.

It is necessary to perform excavations in bricks for reliable fixation with the stove and create heat niches to expand the metal. Immediately attach the slab to dry and numb the bricks - so it will be easy for you to put the brick on the solution and not make a mistake with the correct notches under the stove.

We pave an asbestos strip on the brick (on the expansion of the metal).

Step 6. The withdrawal of the chimney through the roof

This is a responsible step that should ensure the full safety of the furnace operation.

Guide Snipback standards when the brick tube is derived through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and chimney should be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the passage of the pipe through the roof, it is necessary to carry out insulation with thermal insulation materials. This will ensure reliable protection from blew cold air and will provide reliable fireproof.

If the furnace is performed in a residential building with a finished roof, you will need to take part of the roof. After the wire of the pipe, it will be necessary to fully ensure the integrity of the roof in this place, so that during the rain or snow, the moisture does not get inside.

For waterproofing the stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The slate dosper and the metal plate is performed using the sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to perform with the help of steel pipes such as Sandwich. They have a stylish look and are easily going. In addition, they have much less scales than brick and will not create such pressure on the foundation.

Determining the necessary height of the chimney, guide not only the height of the roof, but also the height of the skate.

From properly calculated parameters, the effectiveness of the heating of the room and the presence of thrust depends directly.

The edge of the pipe should perform over the "skate" of the roof at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the swirls, which are formed around the roof, may interfere with good thrust, and they will constantly blend cold air into the chimney.

Complete the construction of the chimney - metal grille. It will prevent garbage from entering the chimney.

Top we wear a metal cap, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Facing the oven

There are many ways how beautiful to bust the oven for the cottage.

Clinker tiles, tile tile, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be played as a decorative material.

And you can simply leave the oven in its original form, especially if you bought a high-quality beautiful brick.

Consider that any facing material reduces the heat return. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the furnace with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Mainstock oven

After a complete cladding of the oven, you need to make a technological break for 10-14 days, until the design is completely sucked. Leave the door to the open latch.

When you make sure the masonry solution is completely drying, you can pro-lead the first test extrovers of the furnace. No need to hurry and immediately, after masonry, getting firewood.

Premature extracts of a crude furnace can lead to her cracking. In the first time, use ¼ part of the firewood, lay small lamps. This will allow good dry design from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

Do not use garbage to extract.
The firebox door must be closed when trash.
War down the furnace gradually, do not immediately give a strong heat.
Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For ease of operation, a cottage stove can be made with your own hands stylish, which will become a decorative and functional element in everyday life.

As you can see, if you follow a clear scheme of the coach - it is not so difficult to fold a beautiful and a good dacha stove.

Video: Laying brick furnace "On dry"

Below we give a detailed master class on masonry a brick furnace for giving.

Video. Master class on masonry oven for giving

The stove is a multifunctional, complex in the technical sense. It is within its limits that the fuel is recycling, obtaining heat and the removal of combustion products outwards. If the furnace laying is planned with their own hands, it is required to strictly observe the rules verified in practice, guaranteeing the normal operation of the aggregate.

Those who wish to learn how to perfectly build a brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues that are interested in an independent master. In the submitted article in the finest details, the technological specifics of the constructions are given, the main postulates of the people and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information provided by us will have effective assistance in the construction of a brick furnace. All its components will be impeccable to cope with the duties, and the construction itself will last for many years without complaints. To help homemade craftsmen, we selected ordinal schemes, photo images, video recommendations.

Before embarking on the construction of the stove, it should be declared its purpose. The heating, cooking and drying units have significant constructive differences that initially need to be considered. There is a reasonable difference and in orders developed by the burning for the exact masonry of bricks.

There are many furnace structures that can be divided into groups for intended purpose:

Gallery of images

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