In new apartments with a large area and in old apartments with outdated layouts, there is a desire to remake the premises for themselves. From one large room, you can always make two smaller ones. For these purposes, interior drywall partitions are used. They are an effective solution in this situation due to their lightness and ease of installation. Also, their construction does not need to be coordinated with anyone.

Such partitions can be used to separate the nursery where children of different sexes live. Alternatively, the living room can be converted into two bedrooms. Regardless of the situation, the process of erecting plasterboard partitions in the room will be the same.

Any design must have a number of positive qualities so that it can be used in practice. Let's consider what advantages can be provided by drywall partitions that are used in the room of the apartment.

Selection of basic materials

Having decided on the need to use partitions to divide the space in the room, you should figure out the tools and materials that will be required to carry out the work.

Drywall is of course number one. A typical 12.5 mm thick plasterboard wall is used. The sheets have a standard width of 1.2 meters, and the lengths are 2.5 and 3 meters. There are other options, but these are standard. It is better to take those sheets that are shorter, since they are easier to bring into the house. You can take fire-resistant sheets (they have pink cardboard). In this situation, they will be appropriate if the children's room is divided, and power cables will be laid in the partition itself.

Sound insulation material is fixed thanks to metal profiles

An interior partition made of plasterboard with sound insulation will allow neighbors to comfortably listen to music, watch a movie or talk calmly. Since the room is divided into two parts, the use of soundproofing materials is necessary. They are installed in a metal frame.

Various profiles that can be used to assemble the frame

To assemble the frame, metal profiles are required. The standard length of such profiles ranges from 3-4 meters (short ones are more convenient, since it is more realistic to bring them into the apartment without cutting or bending). What profiles might you need?

1. Guides are classics of the genre. They are fixed to the surface and serve as the basis for attaching other profiles. It is convenient to cut jumpers from the guides.
2. The post profile is a thrust element of the supporting structures. It seems to support the entire frame, because it is used as a vertical support.
3. Corner and ceiling profiles are not used when creating interior partitions.

Installation of interior drywall partitionsinvolves the creation of a frame from profiles. But which profiles to take, because they all have different sizes? It is necessary to select the size so that the rack profile fits tightly into the guide. You need to look at this first. And then if you take rails 28x27 mm and racks 50x50 mm, then nothing will come of it. If a 50x40 guide profile is used, then the 50x50 mm racks will be just right.

Selection of fasteners and tools

To fix all elements of the interior partition made of gypsum plasterboard you will need:

• dowels 6x40 mm for fixing the frame to the floor, wall and ceiling;
• self-tapping screws phosphate black. The length of the self-tapping screw should be 25 mm if the wall plasterboard is attached in one layer. Sometimes, for greater reliability and better sound insulation of the interior partitions, drywall sheets are attached in two layers on top of each other. In this case, self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm will be required for the second layer;
• bugs (small screws with a drill and press washer) are used to fasten the profiles to each other. They should be as short as possible (for example, 4.2x19 mm), and the head should be as flat as possible. The presence of the "bugs" drill simplifies their passage through two profiles.
• the sealing tape must be used. It is installed between the surface and the frame, thereby improving the sound insulation characteristics of the assembled structure.

In addition to fasteners, you will need special tools for the job. Without them, the installation of an interior plasterboard partition will not succeed. These tools include a screwdriver, drill, level, plumb line, metal scissors, construction knife, hammer and tape measure. However, this list is not complete or mandatory. Some tools are not required, but others may be useful instead (hole saw, cutter, chop cord, hammer drill, edge planer, etc.).

When the partition for dividing the room is assembled, it will need to be prepared for finishing. For these purposes you will need:

• primer;
• a roller with a container for it;
• putty;
• serpyanka;
• a set of spatulas;
• reinforcing corners;
• sandpaper.

Room layout

The quality of the partition depends on the correct layout of the room.

It is necessary to decide on the place where the partition will pass. With the help of a laser level, lines are drawn on the ceiling, walls and floor. If it is not there, then you will need to draw the first line on the ceiling. This requires a water level and a long ruler (guide profile).

Using a plumb line, the extreme points of the line on the ceiling are transferred to the floor. Now there are two points on the floor, between which another line is drawn. Upholstery cord can be used. Next, it's small, draw lines on the walls in a similar way, focusing on the mark that is already on the floor and ceiling.

When do-it-yourself drywall partitions are assembled, they usually have a doorway, although not always. The space under the doorway also needs to be marked out in order to know to what place to let the profile on the floor and where to insert additional posts with mortgages.

General rules for assembling a frame for a partition

The interior partition should not rest against the window

The base of the frame is assembled from guide profiles that are attached along the perimeter of the future partition. The best place to start is from the ceiling. The guide is pressed against the ceiling and a hole is drilled with a drill. Then the dowel is hammered, which presses the guide to the surface. The fixing step is 0.5-1 meter, depending on the upcoming operational loads. Perhaps only a couple of hangers will be hung on the partition, or maybe it will be tiled and several massive book shelves will be attached to it.

Do not forget to use sealing tape wherever the profiles are in contact with any surface. This improves the soundproofing characteristics of the partition.

Similar to the guide, the rest of the profiles are attached to the ceiling. It is not necessary to dock them together in the corners. All the same, drywall in the corners is not attached with self-tapping screws. Now the perimeter of the future partition from a metal profile and drywall is ready.

The location of the profiles in the frame

It is necessary to insert racks to strengthen the structure. They are inserted in increments of 40 to 60, depending on how the drywall sheets will then be attached. The fact is that the joints of the sheets should fall on the profile. Usually, the racks are installed in 60 cm increments with the expectation that the entire structure will be additionally reinforced with jumpers.

The uprights should be installed sideways so that drywall can be attached to them from both sides. In other words, the ribs of the rack profile should run parallel to the plane of the frame.

When assembling an interior plasterboard partition with your own hands, it is important that the gypsum board lies flat on the frame. Therefore, the racks are attached to the rails using a special cutter tool. If it is not there, then use small self-tapping screws for metal. Screw in two bugs in each place where the rack-mount profile enters the guide (in total, 8 self-tapping screws will come out for each rack). However, the caps stick out a little, which is why the drywall also does not fit perfectly flat.

Jumpers make the whole frame more durable

If the vertical posts were installed in 40 cm increments, then jumpers can be dispensed with. If the step is 60 cm, then you need to install several horizontal jumpers for greater structural strength. A profile is simply cut from the guides, which are mounted horizontally between the vertical posts. The step of fastening is 50-60 cm. The lintels are also fastened with bedbugs or with a cutter.

Jumpers can be specially installed at the attachment points of future shelves, so that their installation is even more reliable. You can insert a wooden beam into such a jumper if you plan to hang something massive on the wall.

How to fill the void of the partition: sound insulation

Depending on the thickness of the interior drywall partitions, you can choose how to fill the resulting void. The thickness is the sum of the width of the guide and two thicknesses of the gypsum board. The width of the rail is the same as the height of the rack-mount profile (not to be confused with the length) and is selected individually by everyone. This width gives a certain void inside the partition.

It is possible to assemble two frames for partitions at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. They are then sheathed with plasterboard, and a thick partition is obtained. They go to this step when they are going to place a lot of things inside such a structure.

There is enough space inside the structure to extend the power cable to connect an outlet or wall lamp. Such cables must necessarily go in a corrugation for fire safety purposes.

Soundproofing material should not be subject to combustion

In most cases, the cavity is filled with soundproofing material. Therefore, vertical posts are often installed with a pitch equal to the width of the soundproofing material. Then it fits without the need for additional trimming and does not tilt to the side. Sound insulation of interior drywall partitions should be carried out after one side of the structure is sheathed with gypsum board.

The sound-insulating material fits comfortably into the grooves of the upper and lower profile. It will rest against the back of one rack-mount profile, but will fit well into the intercostal space of the second rack. For this reason, the racks are placed so that they all look in the same direction. Some people prefer to install two poles back to back so that the soundproofing goes into them and does not rest on anything.

The horizontal lintels also serve as additional fixation for sound insulation. Although this is not so critical, everything will ultimately be pressed by sheets of drywall.

Installing a doorway

Separately, it is worth dwelling on those cases when a door is required to be installed in the interior partitions. We will not consider the process of installing the door itself, but we will focus on how to correctly make an opening for this very door.

The interior door is not heavy enough to damage the partition structure

Before making an interior plasterboard partition, you need to decide where the door will stand. After calculations with the doorway, the points are marked on the floor where it will be located. It is necessary to take into account not only the width of the door leaf, but also the door frame itself, therefore the calculations are carried out carefully.

The floor profile is laid on both sides up to the doorway. A rack profile is inserted into each end of the rail, which goes all the way to the ceiling. There will be a doorway between these two profiles. To indicate the height of the opening, a horizontal lintel is installed between the two profiles. All actions are carried out using a level, because here errors are especially dangerous.

It is necessary to use wooden blocks that are inserted into the posts and the lintel. They should fit tightly into the profile, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. The upper jumper is additionally fixed with nails, which are driven into its end by two pieces. The resulting doorway, although it came out of the metal profile, is reinforced with wood bars.

Plasterboard step-by-step

When the frame of the interior partition is ready, then the matter is only small, because there is nothing complicated in plasterboard cladding.

Preparation for finishing

The resulting interior partition cannot remain in this form. It should be prepared for finishing.

Self-tapping caps do not need preliminary priming

All caps of self-tapping screws must be puttied. The joints between the sheets of drywall are first primed, and then putty. In this case, the primer makes sense only if the edges of the sheets have been chamfered. The use of a primer will make the adhesion of the starting putty to the surface of the gypsum board better. After applying the putty to the joints, you need to use a serpyanka, which will prevent the putty from cracking in these places in the future. The corner parts of the interior partition must be putty and reinforced with a special reinforcing corner.

When the putty is dry, you will need to sandpaper it to remove the bumps and sagging that may have formed during the work. After that, the interior plasterboard partition is all primed and putty. If necessary, the second layer of finishing putty can also be sanded with sandpaper.

Now the interior partition can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper of your choice.

In any construction work, technology is always important, it is she who guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the result of the repair. But, often, builders allow technological "blunders", some from ignorance, and some from inertia. Many builders deliberately violate the technology, it would seem, out of good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Let's consider the main mistakes on the example of working with a metal profile.

1. Violations of the frame assembly technology

Failure to comply with the technology with a metal profile or the inconsistency of the profiles with their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for the profile for curved ceiling surfaces.

This photo shows that, unfortunately, the master, in principle, does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you always need to use suspensions, the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that drywall sheets are screwed. There is no additional metal strip in the structure along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this structure will be flimsy, and the drywall fixing is unreliable, which will lead to cracks after repair.

2. Errors when cutting a profile

For uniform cutting of a profile for the purpose of mounting curved structures, in no case should you use an angle grinder (grinder). At high speed, the metal overheats, moreover, galvanized steel burns out at the cut, as a result of which in the future this place will be subject to corrosion. Cutting the metal profile should only be done with special metal shears (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut neatly, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf, on which the side drywall sheet will be attached.

3. Wrong selection of a profile

A common mistake among builders of different qualifications, when the structure of the box for partitions is made from a ceiling profile, instead of a rack (PS 50/50) and guide (PN 50/40).

The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a structure immediately becomes questionable.

Using a ceiling profile for the frame of partitions is a complete disagreement with technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 (which is fixed to the floor, ceiling and wall) and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50 are used.

4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame

During the construction of a suspended ceiling, builders are faced with the problem of the foundation - what is the frame to be fixed to? In the best case, it is concrete, but if it is a tree or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then problems arise here, as in the photo. In this case, the builders in some places decided to completely abandon the use of suspensions for the frame of a two-level ceiling of the P-112 type.

As a result, the main profile 60/27 is rigidly screwed to the bearing profile without a two-level connector. The bearing profile itself is pressed against the boards also without suspensions. This technology will lead to the fact that after a while, cracks will necessarily form on the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The frame scheme is also violated, - the step of the profiles is chaotic, with a wide offset of the bearing profile from the wall. If the technology is observed, the supporting profile is fixed from the wall with a step of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be attached to special perforated or spring hangers. The profile step should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).

5. Extension of the profile walls

A vivid example of incorrect work with a profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of the technology. And besides, for the jumpers, the profile was simply unbent.

And here, the load-bearing crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack-mount profile, which, moreover, is deployed horizontally, and its stiffening ribs are unbent.

This is extremely wrong. By unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is violated, since the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.

6. Fastening the GCR sheet with the wrong side

Some builders consider it an insignificant question, which side to fix the drywall - front or back? The photo shows how when sheathing the wall with sheets of gypsum plasterboard, some of them are sewn with the back side out. The peculiarity of this drywall is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard from the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet in humid rooms, as well as the formation of fungus.

7. Error fixing drywall sheets

Another popular mistake that leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall is incorrect fixation. It is the installation of sheets of drywall in a run-off that will protect against cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is a poor quality planking. Sheets must be taken as large as possible, and small pieces must not be joined on an area of ​​1 sq / m.

Even experienced craftsmen should improve their knowledge, for example, at the Knauf Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the structures of the gypsum plasterboard systems and the profile is connected with the observance of the technology!

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in an apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, study and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional zones with your own hands, dividing with frame partitions sheathed with plasterboard, and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall structure

Despite the peculiarities of the interior, your design idea, as well as the location and size of drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profiles, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) is a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum board sheets

Application area

Frame partitions sheathed with gypsum boards are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures, sheathed with drywall sheets, have long and with great success been replacing partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Material properties. A strong metal profile allows you to mount lightweight partition walls of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, the galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material specially processed to improve its fire retardant and moisture resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, "inexperienced" in construction work, home craftsman can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these designs is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying of communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum costs. All elements that make up the partition, sheathed with gypsum board, are of low cost. During the installation of the product, a pile of debris and dust is not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

disadvantages

Be sure to note the design flaws that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• Relative fragility of drywall in comparison with materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of gypsum board to abundant moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak, "organized" by the neighbors living above.
• The impossibility of attaching massive shelves or wall cabinets to the surface of the partition. The design is capable of supporting a weight of up to 70 kg per running meter, provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some disadvantages of gypsum board, we note that the competent creation and correct operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this is the end of the short "theory course", we pass on to solving practical issues. First, we will consider a list of the necessary tools, list the materials that we need for the construction of the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• LBM ("grinder") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
• A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (cordless) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To mount the structure on the upper levels, you will need a solid step ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses or masks, heavy gloves, and a respirator.

Materials (edit)

For self-installation of the partition, the following materials will be used:

1. A metal profile of two types for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used to create a doorway. PS - "rack-mountable" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the lathing.
2. Plasterboard for cladding - covers the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of the partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's take a closer look at this question:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum plasterboard - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and curly structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork plate or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, you will need to create it:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening the frame elements.
• Self-tapping plasterboard piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) - cladding assembly.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing the joints between the sheets and masking the zones of screwing the caps of screws on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing tape-serpyanka, primer for gypsum board, finishing putty.

Measurements + table for calculating consumables

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate the required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of sheathing layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a 75 mm wide profile and single-layer sheathing with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix as a whole, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the rest of the length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the door installation site and installing jumpers between the posts.

  The UW profile is marked in black, shaping the outline of the structure

• Rack profile (CW). Taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and another element is in the middle of the sheet.

  The frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and getting as a result 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The vertical struts of the partition frame made of the CW profile are marked in gray

• Profile for a doorway. In the place where the door is installed, we will have to displace one post, reinforcing it with a strip of the guide profile, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter post profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a 1.0 m section of the guide profile will be used.

  Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue

• Profile for lintels between posts. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers are installed between the posts from the guide profile at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and those surpluses that remained when calculating the partition contour.

  Lintels from the UW profile, which increase the overall rigidity of the structure, are marked in blue

• Drywall. As a material for cladding, we use GKL sheets (plates) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the other three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half of the sheet. It also needs five slabs - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be positioned in this way

  The second side of the frame should be closed with the sheets offset by one stand or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with displacement joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

• guide profile (UW-75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW-75) 4 meters - 3 strips;
• rack profile (CW-75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
• drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fix the guide profile to the ceilings should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction - have prepared a table that will help us with calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	Knauf profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	running. m	0,7
3	Knauf profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	running. m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PCS.	29
5	Putty Knauf-Fugen	Kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	running. m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PCS.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	running. m	1,2
9	Primer Knauf-Tiefengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool thermal insulation Knauf	sq. m	1,0
11	Knauf-profile PU	PCS.	*

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a drywall partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work are completed, we will be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of our neighbors and proceed with the installation of the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting. Before the measures to create the partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled by filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and markup

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the marking will be performed. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finishing.

Installation of lathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

1. LBM ("grinder") or metal scissors cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the required length. On the back side of the blanks, we glue a sealing damper tape, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibrations

2. We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (with a pitch of no more than 400-500 mm) and hammering in the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise to start with the upper rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to "shoot" the correct installation of the floor profile from it with a plumb line.

   We drill holes for dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer

3. We will install vertical guides, fixing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   By mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the vertical with the help of a building level

4. We will form a doorway by installing racks from a reinforced profile in the marked place. We will measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150-200 mm), or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden bar, picking it up by size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   Insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with self-tapping screws for metal

5. We will install a reinforced rack in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap is useful), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. We will mount the second rack in the same way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully put it in the upper

6. Let's set up posts from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, check the verticality with a level, we carry out fasteners with self-tapping screws for metal. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack-mount profile, since it is at this point that sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the guides with self-tapping screws for metal

7. We will mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Cut off from the strip of the guide profile a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the required size with blind ends.

   A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, which additionally reinforces the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be reinforced in any of the mentioned ways.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to make and mount additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the posts. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW upright profile with self-tapping screws for metal.

   Variant of the location of the transverse jumpers in the frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished partition frame, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will install the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, as well as lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    Wooden beams need to be fixed in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important stage in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat, and also isolate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, we will perform the following steps:

1. We will go around one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting from a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step began for the CW profile racks. Remember that when installing the gypsum board, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and "deaf" installation in the spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

   The installation of the cladding is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We attach the cladding sheet to the profile, screwing the self-tapping screws for the gypsum board around the entire perimeter with a pitch of 250–300 mm. We recessed the caps of the self-tapping screws inside the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The caps of self-tapping screws must be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall

3. With a jigsaw or knife, we cut out the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack-mount profile.

   We join sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we put the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks.

   Place the cut-to-size slabs of mineral wool between the racks of the crate

5. We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, displacing the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the plasterboard cladding, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or non-standard size parts, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, insert the door block into it and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the unit will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the cladding is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with a door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be pasted over with wallpaper, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster can be applied - it only depends on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a plasterboard partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

30737 0 6

Frame from a profile for drywall: accessories and installation procedure

This article is about what and how to assemble a frame from a drywall profile. In it, I will describe the order of work, the design of the frames and the tool used in their assembly. Let's start, however, with why the galvanized profile is the optimal material for the lathing.

Why profile

When assembling the frame, we have to choose between an inexpensive bar with a section of 40x40 - 50x50 mm and a profile. I highly recommend choosing a profile for the following reasons:

• He always has perfect geometry... The block usually has to be sorted out, with a significant part of the material going to waste due to bends and "propellers";
• Geometry and dimensions of galvanized steel part remain constant at any fluctuations in humidity. The wood swells in damp weather (this, in particular, is associated with the rubbing of jambs with a wooden door on rainy days) and warps during drying. Deformation of the frame often leads to the appearance of cracks on the drywall at the seams;

Reinforcement of the seams solves the problem only with small deformations. Significant bending of the bar will inevitably damage the finish.

• Galvanizing in living conditions serves indefinitely... The bar cannot boast of this: mold, rot and insects often lead to the loss of strength in the structure or even its destruction after 10-15 years.
  Of course, there are methods for protecting wood from these factors (for example, sequential impregnation with antiseptic and drying oil), but they deprive wood of the main advantage - cheapness - and significantly increase the time spent on assembling the frame or lathing.

Materials (edit)

Profiles

Now - about what types of galvanized profiles can be found on sale.

For the assembly of battens and frames, only four types of it are usually used:

Length of guide profiles - 3 meters, rack and ceiling - 3 or 4 meters.

In addition, if desired, in hardware stores you can find:

• Corner perforated profile to strengthen the corners of walls and partitions;

• Flexible profile for arches and vaults.

Auxiliary components

For fixing the ceiling profile to capital structures, direct hangers are used. The ears of the U-shaped suspension are provided with perforations and are attached to the side walls of the CD.

Direct suspension. Product price - 4 rubles, design load - 40 kilograms, packing - 100 pieces in a package.

To connect the frame elements to each other, self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 9 mm are used.

When installing suspensions of guide profiles to solid walls and ceilings, dowel screws with a size of 6x60 or 8x80 mm are used. The size of the fasteners depends, first of all, on the material of the capital structures: longer dowel screws are useful with a thick layer of loose plaster.

Instruments

What tool does the assembly of a frame from a drywall profile require?

• Scissors for metal are needed for cutting galvanized;

Sometimes it is cut with a grinder with a circle for metal, but this is not entirely correct. Heating during abrasive cutting causes the zinc coating to burn out, and the edge of the profile in a humid environment begins to rust.

• Level and plumb line. They are needed to orient the frame elements in strictly horizontal and vertical positions;
• Square, tape measure, long ruler and marking pencil;
• Perforator with a drill for drilling holes for dowel screws;
• Screwdriver. It is absolutely unrealistic to screw in with your own hands, using a screwdriver, several hundred self-tapping screws for metal.

The screwdriver is the main tool for working with drywall and galvanized profiles.

Mounting

What scenarios does a novice builder most often encounter when working with drywall?

• WITH wall cladding(aligning their surface with the frame);
• With the installation of internal partitions(deaf, with door or window openings, with shelves and niches);
• With assembly false ceilings(horizontal, inclined and multilevel);

The photo shows a sloped plasterboard ceiling in my attic.

• WITH boxes for risers, combs (horizontal indoor sewerage), air ducts, etc.

Let's see how to make a wireframe in each of these cases.

Wall cladding

1. We mark the position of the frame border. In general, the closer the guide profile is to the main wall, the better: so the cost of the useful area of ​​the room will be minimal. An exception is cases when the space between the main wall and the cladding is used for laying large-diameter communications (sewers, air ducts) or for creating niches.
   The markings are first performed on the floor, then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line, after which the lines on the walls are drawn between the marks on horizontal surfaces along a long ruler or a profile pressed against the wall;

1. We fasten the guide ceiling profile UD along the entire perimeter of the wall with dowel screws with a pitch of 50-60 cm;

Captain Evidence suggests: if there is a doorway in the wall, a gap is left in the guideway at its bottom for the entire width of the opening.

1. The position of the ceiling profiles is marked on the main wall. They are usually mounted vertically. The step between the longitudinal axes of adjacent CDs should be exactly 60 centimeters: then the seams between adjacent sheets of gypsum board (remember, the standard width of a drywall sheet is 120 centimeters) will fall in the middle of the profile;

A pair of additional CDs are installed along the edges of the doorway, connected at the top by a lintel from the same profile. They will allow you to sheathe the slopes.

1. Along each line with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are attached with dowel screws;

1. Then the ceiling profiles are cut to length and inserted into the guides along the marking lines;
2. The ears of the suspensions are attracted to a ruler aligned along the edge or according to the rule of the profile with self-tapping screws 9 mm long. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.
3. Each CD is attracted to the UD at the top and bottom by a pair of metal screws. This completes the assembly of the frame, you can proceed to plastering it with plasterboard.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of the gypsum board, at the junction of the whole sheet with the additional one, it is worthwhile to provide a horizontal jumper from the same CD. When the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common profile for them, the likelihood of cracks along the seam is minimal. However, in the upper part of the wall, where the sheathing does not experience deforming loads, with high-quality reinforcement of the seams, you can do without jumpers.

Partition

When assembling the partition, the structure of the frame made of a metal profile for drywall is noticeably different from that described above: UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles are used.

Here are the step-by-step instructions for installing the frame:

1. Guides are attached to the capital structures along the perimeter of the partition. For fastening, dowel screws with a hose of the same 50 - 60 centimeters are used. If a doorway is provided in the partition, a gap is left in the lower guide in this case in its entire width;
2. With a step of exactly 60 centimeters, the posts from the CW profile cut to the required length are inserted into the lower and upper rails. It is better to take measurements of the height for each rack separately: the differences in the distance between the floor slabs can be calculated in centimeters;

When marking the position of the posts, take risks not on the profile, but on the floor and ceiling surfaces with a small distance from the guide. These marks will help you locate the uprights when plastering the frame with drywall.

1. Each rack is attached to the rails with metal screws.

Doors, windows

Installation into a partition deserves a separate description.

It is performed at the stage of assembling the frame in the following order:

1. The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged in a box with cardboard folded in several layers, scraps of hardboard, plywood or chips. This is necessary so that the door does not overwrite the jambs after installation;
2. One of the pillars adjacent to the doorway is installed in a strictly vertical position and is attached to the guides;
3. A strip of polyurethane foam or sealant is applied to it, after which the rack is attracted to the door frame with self-tapping screws 16 - 25 mm long in increments of no more than 50 cm;
4. On the opposite side, the second post is attached in a similar way;
5. Both posts are connected with a horizontal crosspiece from the same CW profile. The method of fastening to the horizontal crossbar of the door frame is the same.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is fixed in the same way. There are only two differences:

• A break in the bottom rail is understandably unnecessary;
• There are two horizontal bridges between the posts - above and below the window opening.

Arches

The arch frame is bent from a special flexible profile, as well as from a guide or post cut with a step of 10-15 cm. The arch becomes rigid in the process of plating the gypsum board; additional reinforcing bridges between the elements of its frame are possible, but not required.

Gain

In rooms with significant loads on the walls (in an apartment this is primarily a hallway and a kitchen), they need a reinforced frame. Stiffness in relation to horizontal loads is achieved, first of all, by increasing the width of the post and guide profile from 50 to 75 or 100 millimeters. If this is undesirable due to the small area of ​​the premises, you can make the frame as strong as possible in other ways:

• By reducing the step between the uprights from 60 to 40 centimeters;
• By connecting the rack profiles in pairs;
• Putting in the racks wooden mortgages- bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

In addition: with significant expected loads on the walls, they are sheathed with plasterboard in two layers. Sheets of the first and second layers are fastened with the obligatory overlap of horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 20 - 30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50 - 70 pieces per sheet.

Noise isolation

The hollow GCR baffle has an unpleasant feature: it acts as a resonator, amplifying sound vibrations. Soundproofing a wall requires an integrated approach:

• Placed under the guide profile damper tape, which will exclude the transmission of low-frequency vibrations to capital structures. Instead, you can use polyethylene foam cut into strips of the appropriate width;
• The frame is filled with mineral wool. It is better to use glued plates with a size of 1000x600 mm: they will fit between the racks without cutting in width, and will not cake, leaving voids in the filling of the wall;

• Finally, the most effective solution is to acoustically decouple the partition surfaces from each other by creating two independent frames for them. In this case, two guide profiles are mounted along the perimeter of the partition at a minimum distance from each other; the posts are installed in them in a staggered manner so that each post is in contact with only one side of the casing.

Captain Evidence suggests that the thickness of the partition will increase to at least 100 millimeters.

Shelves, niches

To place niches or shelves in the partition, we also have to build two independent frames. The basis of the shelves is the horizontal lintels between the CW profiles. With a partition thickness of more than 15-20 centimeters, the shelves are reinforced with additional bridges between the two frames.

Suspended ceiling

How to correctly make a frame from a drywall profile when installing a suspended ceiling?

The general principles for assembling the frame of a single-level ceiling are the same as for wall cladding with plasterboard: ceiling and guide ceiling profiles are used; CDs are attached to ceilings or beams with straight hangers.

There are, however, differences:

• It is better to reduce the step between suspensions to 60 cm, which will exclude the possibility of ceiling sagging;
• It is advisable to align the ceiling profiles not along the ruler or the edge of another profile, but along several strands stretched across them between the guide threads. At first, the CDs are pressed against the ceiling with the curved ears of the suspensions, then they are released one by one, aligned in the horizontal plane along a thread, and finally attached to the suspension.

If the ceiling is multi-level, the drop can be created in several ways:

• By combining straight hangers and elongated hangers with knitting needles;

• Using post and guide profiles. CW is used as uprights, while UW connects them and secures them to the floor;

• Finally, with a low room height, the higher part of the ceiling is made of plaster or leveled with plasterboard, fixed to the floor surface with gypsum glue and (temporarily) with dowel screws.

The last case should be analyzed separately. GKL is attached in the following order:

1. The surface of the rough ceiling is cleaned of low-adhesive coatings (peeling plaster, whitewash, paint, etc.);

Hint: Plaster and whitewash can be removed with a hard steel trowel without raising any dust if soaked in water. To do this, the ceiling is wetted from the sprayer two or three times with an interval of 10-15 minutes.

1. Then the surface is dust-free with a brush or vacuum cleaner;
2. The cleaned ceiling is primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will prevent the surface from shedding and will adhere the remaining dust to the substrate. It is advisable to add an antiseptic to it, since the gypsum board will limit the ventilation of the ceiling;
3. A sheet of drywall is pressed against the ceiling by assistants, after which holes for dowel screws are drilled right through it in the ceiling. The step between the attachment points is no more than half a meter;
4. Plaster glue cakes are superimposed on the sheet in increments of no more than 15 cm. Along the edge of the sheet with a small indent from it, it is worth forming an intermittent roller of glue. The gaps will allow air to escape from the space between the gypsum board and the rough ceiling;

1. GKL is pressed against the ceiling and fixed with dowel screws;
2. Then the sheet is leveled horizontally. You can raise or lower a section of the sheet by screwing or unscrewing the dowel screws;
3. When the glue sets (it takes up to 6 hours), the fasteners are removed, and the holes from it are putty with gypsum or acrylic putty.

Box

The easiest way to assemble a box from a drywall profile is from a rack and guide profiles. The guide is used for fastening the frame to the floor, ceiling and main walls, rack-mount - for the manufacture of vertical frame elements and lintels between them. Jumpers, by the way, are not necessary: ​​the frame will acquire maximum rigidity after sheathing with wall gypsum board.

Different types of profiles can be combined. In the picture, the uprights are made from CW and UW, and the lintels are from the ceiling CD.

An important point: in most cases hiding communications in a non-separable box is a very bad idea... So, risers and water supply lines, as well as sewage can be made hidden only if the following conditions are met:

1. There are no revisions or tees on the riser for cleaning;

1. The sewer riser is assembled from plastic pipes, each of which is fixed at the socket with a clamp, which excludes its subsidence;
2. Water supply risers are made of polypropylene, copper or corrugated stainless pipes with maintenance-free connections (brazed or, in the case of stainless steel, compression with silicone seals).

It is categorically impossible to hide steel pipes in a non-separable box for two reasons:

• They have a limited service life. Leaking pipes in the box will force you to dismantle it to repair or replace the riser section;
• Lack of ventilation in the box will lead to the appearance of condensation on the cold water pipes in the summer. Dampness will shorten the already short life of the steel riser.

In addition: risers belong to the common property of residents of the house, and access to them may be required at any time. For example, when a neighbor leaks from below or above, or when a sewer riser is clogged.

8785 0 10

Partition profile for drywall: 2 types of profile and 3 stages of wall construction

In this article, we have to figure out from which profile to make a plasterboard partition and how to assemble it correctly. In addition, we will familiarize ourselves with the technology of plastering plasterboard walls. Let's get started.

What is offered by the market

First, let's find out what, in fact, we have to choose from. On sale we can find the following profiles:

• Ceiling (60x27 mm);
• Ceiling guide (28x27);
• Rack (side walls 50 mm high, bottom - from 50 to 100 mm wide, depending on the requirements for the rigidity of the structure);
• Guide (40x50-100 mm);
• Flexible arched;

• Corner perforated.

By elimination method

The last two can be discarded at once: the first of them is intended for the assembly of curved frames, the second is for strengthening the plaster corners.

Ceiling and ceiling guides are quite predictably used to assemble suspended ceiling battens. With the same success, however, they can be used for leveling solid walls with significant irregularities; in this case, the ceiling profile is attached to it by means of straight hangers.

Are these profiles suitable for partitions?

No. They are sorely lacking in rigidity: a wall assembled on a frame made of a CD ceiling or UD ceiling guide deforms even with a slight lateral load.

What's in the bottom line?

That's right, there are only two varieties:

1. Rack;

1. Guide.

The first one, as the name implies, is used as vertical frame struts, the second secures the fastening of the struts to the capital structures of the building - adjacent walls, ceiling and floor.

Thickness and stiffness

We found out what profiles are needed to assemble the frame. But they have different thicknesses. Hence the next question: what width of the bottom wall should a profile for a plasterboard partition have?

There are three factors at play here:

• The stiffness requirements already mentioned by me. In rooms with high traffic (public buildings, hallways, kitchens), it is better to use a profile with a width of 75 or even 100 mm, and when building walls that do not experience serious loads during operation, 50 mm is quite enough;

When strength is needed: frame thickness - 100 mm.

• The need to place communications in the partition - water supply, ventilation ducts and sewerage. For a sewer pipe with a nominal cross section of 50 mm, a frame of at least 75 mm is needed;

• Finally, sound insulation requirements are no less important.

Loopholes

What if, for some reason (for example, due to the peculiarities of the layout or lack of usable space), you do not want to use a drywall profile for a partition with a width of more than 50 mm?

For obvious reasons, there is nothing to be done with noise insulation: a thin wall will always conduct sound better than a thick one. Communications of a significant section also will not fit into a narrow frame, but the stiffness and strength of the wall can be increased without a serious increase in its thickness.

• The rack profile 50x50 can be reinforced with wooden inserts. A bar of the same section is embedded in the racks and multiplies their ability to withstand horizontal loading;

• The same effect can be achieved by folding the plasterboard rack profile for partitions in pairs. You can nest the racks in each other or simply install them side by side, sewn with self-tapping screws for metal or leave a gap between them. The rigidity of the structure will increase in all cases;

• You can make the frame more rigid by reducing the step between the posts. Normally, it is 60 centimeters, but it can be reduced to 40 or even 30 cm. The main thing is that the width of the drywall sheet remains a multiple of this step, and that the seam between the sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack;
• Finally, the strength of the wall will increase when it is clad with gypsum board in two layers on each side.

Wall project

Payment

We found out which profile is needed for a drywall partition, but we still do not know how much to buy.

The instruction for calculating the number of a profile is extremely simple:

• The total length of the guide profile must be equal to the perimeter of the partition without cutting margin. The guides can be connected in length without any restrictions;
• The height of the racks must be at least the height of the room (it can be equal to 3 or 4 meters);

• The number of racks is calculated based on the length of the partition and the step between them, rounded up to a whole value. For a wall 4 meters long, for example, it is equal to 400 / 60-1 = 6.

The standard pitch between the frame posts is 0.6 meters.

The task becomes somewhat more complicated if the wall is supposed to have a doorway, shelves or skylights. Any opening is tied with a rack-mount profile vertically and rack-mount or horizontal guides.

Stage 1: markup

What and how to mark up before starting the construction of the frame?

We need to draw a line for the axis of the frame on the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, and then mark the position of the posts. This will require:

• One of the profiles prepared for the assembly of the frame for the role of a ruler;
• Plumb line;

In the photo - a construction plumb line.

• Pencil;
• Roulette.

I am doing the markup in the following order:

• I draw a line on the floor;
• Using a plumb line, I transfer it to the ceiling;
• I close the outline with lines on the walls connecting the markings above and below;
• I mark the position of the racks on the floor;
• I transfer them with a plumb line to the ceiling.

The markings for the position of the posts must be made so that they remain visible after the frame has been sheathed. The marks will help you find the racks when attaching the gypsum board.

Stage 2: assembling the frame

How to build a partition frame with your own hands?

As easy as pie:

• Fix the guides to the floor, ceiling and walls with dowel screws in increments of about half a meter;

• Cut to length and set all the racks according to the marks;

You need to cut the profile with metal scissors. Abrasive cutting with a grinder is undesirable: at the same time, zinc burns out in the cutting area, leaving the steel defenseless against rust.

• Screw each post to the rail on both sides with 9mm metal self-tapping screws.

When installed in a partition of a door or window unit, its installation is carried out at the stage of assembling the frame. The block is placed close to the vertical post and is attached to it with self-tapping screws screwed from the side of the profile. Additional fixation can be provided with a strip of foam or sealant.

Then, on the opposite side, the second post is attached in the same way, after which the posts are connected to each other by a horizontal jumper. Do not forget to wedge the door leaf in the box with chips or trimmings.

A special case

If you need to ensure the maximum quality of sound insulation, the frame is assembled differently:

• The guides are mounted in two rows with a minimum gap between them;
• The posts in two rows are installed so that they do not come into contact with each other anywhere.

Why is such a complex and relatively expensive scheme needed? The fact is that two independent frames make it possible to perform acoustic decoupling of the sides of the partition, completely excluding the transmission of acoustic vibrations from one side to the other.

Noise isolation is complemented by a couple more measures:

• Under the guide profile, a porous damper tape;
• Partition filled with sound-absorbing material(as a rule, with glued mineral wool slabs 600 mm wide).

Noise-insulating partition device: 1, 5-GKL, 2 - guides; 3- racks; 4 - self-tapping screws for drywall, 6 - dowel screws, 7 - floor, 8 - mineral wool.

Stage 3: covering and filling

GKL is attached to all profiles (both rack-mount and guides) in increments of no more than 20 centimeters. Fasteners - phosphated self-tapping screws for gypsum board, tool - screwdriver.

For damp rooms (bath, toilet, combined bathroom), use moisture resistant drywall. It is easily recognizable by the green face of the sheet.

The hat is heated approximately 1 mm below the surface of the sheet, while the attachment points should not be closer than 2 cm from the edge. The price of non-compliance with this simple rule is the crumbled edges of the sheet.

The filling is done in two steps:

• First, the seam is filled through the cells of a serpentine glued along it - a reinforcing material based on fiberglass;
• Then the reinforcement is covered with a second pass using a wide spatula.

For painting and wallpapering, the wall is sequentially sanded (with a hand float or sander) and primed with a penetrating primer.

Conclusion

From the article, you learned that the installation of partitions from gypsum plasterboard does not present any difficulties, even for a beginner. The video in this article will help you find out more. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

December 5, 2016

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