There are different methods of installing panel heating. One of them is underfloor heating. The peculiarity is that such heating is done during the construction of the building, and not after its operation, due to the desire to modernize the housing.
Having planned to make a warm floor on the ground in a private house, you should divide all the work into two stages: a rough screed is poured onto the lower layers, then all the other layers of the pie are laid out. This is an iron rule for laying, dictated by the possible shrinkage of the soil.
The underfloor heating construction, which is installed in the premises, resembles a kind of "cake", since it consists of several layers.
Pouring underfloor heating on the ground directly depends on the characteristics of the soil. It must meet certain requirements and regulations.
So, groundwater should be no higher than 5-6 meters from the level of the upper layer. It is important that the soil of the site does not have a high value of looseness and airiness. Therefore, construction work on sandstone and black soil is not allowed. It is also important to take into account the load that will fall on the structure during operation. The floor device must provide the following:
- reliable thermal insulation of the room;
- prevent groundwater from flooding the room;
- eliminate external noise;
- prevent the penetration of water vapor;
- provide comfort to residents.
Water heated floor on the ground
Surface heating construction is an excellent solution for living rooms and work areas with a large area (over 20 m2). Here you can use electric heating or water heating. In small rooms (bathroom, balcony or loggia), pipes are quite difficult to place. Therefore, it is allowed (and even recommended) to use electric underfloor heating. As a rule, everyone strives to provide comfort primarily in large rooms. It is worth considering the water floor on the ground, its features.
It's important to know! In high-rise buildings, it is prohibited to lay a water panel heating system together with a centralized heat source. This is due to the depressurization of the system, the introduction of additional resistances into the project calculated in advance, which will interfere with correct operation.
Based on this, it should be understood that to connect heating, it is worth considering the presence of an autonomous heat source. And for this you need to apply to the relevant government agencies for permission.
There are several methods for installing water systems. But for each of them, you need to provide the following:
- When laying on the ground, you should take care of organizing a kind of "pillow". A layer of sand (5–7 cm thick) is laid first, followed by a stone of fine fraction (layer thickness - 8–10 cm).
- The second stage is waterproofing. Almost all available materials can be used. Bitumen-rubber or bitumen-polymer mastic is suitable. Alternatively, the gluing type can be used. This option has fiberglass reinforcement.
- You cannot do without thermal insulation. You can use expanded polystyrene. The thickness of this layer is variable and depends on the calculations performed.
- You can use an additional layer of roll-type insulation with a foil coating (this is an auxiliary construction, so this step can be skipped).
- Laying pipes for underfloor heating on the ground.
- A screed is made over the pipeline. It will also need to be reinforced with a mesh. The height of such a structure together with the heating elements should be 50–70 mm. This is done to quickly warm up the coating. Reinforcement is carried out over the underfloor heating structure. This is done in order to evenly distribute the loads on the system.
- Finish coating. Here it is allowed to use materials that do not lend themselves to the thermal effects of an underfloor heating system.
The main mistakes when installing a warm floor on the ground
How to make a floor screed on the ground for a warm floor
The current methods for installing a concrete screed on the ground are divided, as a rule, into 4 main stages:
- preparatory work;
- pouring a concrete screed;
- plane processing;
- sealing the cake.
The layered structure of the cake is of particular importance. It includes the following:
- base (it must be compacted before performing subsequent work);
- fine sand;
- crushed stone;
- waterproofing layer;
- primary concrete coating;
- steam protection;
- panel or roll insulation;
- finishing concrete screed with reinforcement.
Preparatory work begins with leveling. This will allow you to determine the level of the soil and floor of the future building. The soil must be compacted through the use of special aggregates.
The waterproofing layer can be made of membrane materials. The only requirement is put forward to it - integrity. Otherwise, damage can be fraught with flooding. The maximum tightness of the layer will be achieved by laying it with an overlap with fastening the parts with assembly tape.
The rough screed is made of lean concrete mixed with fine crushed stone. There are no special requirements for such a surface. By the way, it can have height differences up to 4 mm.
Insulation of floors on the ground involves the use of high-quality materials. Ideally, this layer should perform the function of not only thermal insulation, but also protect the room from water penetration. This will make the house more safe from the flood.
Installation of the finishing screed is carried out in several steps.
Important! Reinforcement directly depends on the design loads on the warm floor.
If the value is small, a road grid can be used. If the expected loads are large enough, then it is recommended to use a frame made of iron rods with a diameter of 8 mm.
At the end of the work, the installation of guide beacons and the final pouring of the cement-concrete mixture are carried out. The final stage is leveling the floor.
Heat loss through the floor on the ground. How to calculate?
Heat losses through the floor structure are calculated slightly differently than through other building envelopes. Before laying heating, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the method of their determination.
The entire plane is divided into zones of a certain size. There are 4 of them:
- The horizontal component of zone I is 2 m from the wall. The vertical component is the thickness of the load-bearing wall that needs to be insulated. It is 1.5 m.
- Zone II is another 2 meters of floor. The area starts directly from zone I to the center of the room for which the calculation is being carried out.
- Zone III - the next 2 meters. This area originates from zone II.
- And zone IV is the remaining floor area of the room.
Then a sketch is drawn. If the room is small, then the conditional division may not be 4, but 2-3 zones. Next, the thermal resistance for each area is determined.
The normative literature states that it should be equal to 2.1 m2 ° C / W. To ensure this indicator, you need to know the thermal conductivity of each layer of the cake. The second area has a standard resistance of 4.3 m2 ° C / W. The third is 8.6, and the fourth is 14.2.
After determining the thermal resistances for each zone, you must immediately calculate the area. In addition, you should know the temperature difference between the outside and inside air. For the calculated value, it is worth taking the temperature of the coldest five-day period.
After that, heat losses are calculated, guided by the formula:
- Q = S * T / R, where:
- Q - heat loss, W
- S - estimated area of each zone, m2
- R - thermal resistance of the enclosing structure, m2 ° С / W
- T is the temperature difference.
When the calculation of heat loss for each floor zone is completed, you need to calculate the total value for the entire room. To do this, you need to add the results obtained for each section.
Floor heating cake on the ground: styling features
The earthen base on which the heating will be mounted must be prepared. For this, the soil is leveled, the top layer is compacted. If necessary, a layer of bedding is laid on the ground. It consists of crushed stone or gravel. The most commonly used material is the middle fraction. This prevents the capillary penetration of groundwater into the room. The need to lay such a "pillow" arises only in the case of a high level of groundwater.
The layer of the rough screed, which was mentioned above, also has certain nuances. The thickness should be between 50 and 100 mm. The concrete grade used is M100 or M200. It is advisable to reinforce the sole in the case when the soil was poorly compacted. Also, its use is justified in the case when there are discrepancies in the density of the base.
Advice. Where pits or trenches are present, reinforcement is a necessary piece of the cake.
A rough screed for underfloor heating on the ground in a private house can be laid on the ceilings of the basement. This is done for the purpose of flattening the plane. The thickness of such a layer should not be less than 3 cm.
There is also such a phenomenon as a dry screed. Its use has gained popularity due to the fact that there are no wet concrete works. It is advisable to use the technology only for arranging a rough screed.
When laying a warm floor on the ground, you should also take care of the deformation layer. Damper tape will help here. The material will negate the likelihood of thermal bridging. It also compensates for the stress caused by heating the concrete pavement. This prevents the screed from expanding and cracking. The damper tape is laid on all sides of the external enclosing structures. But this is done exclusively after plastering and preparatory work for the finishing of the building.
Concrete flooring on the ground in a private house is a long-known universal way of arranging a reliable and warm base. Through the use of new types of insulation, we obtain good thermal insulation of the entire floor, which leads to a decrease in utility costs. And also the insulation is a barrier to moisture penetration and the appearance of fungus and mold.
And the most important thing is that you can build this type of floor with your own hands. In this article, we will analyze all the advantages and disadvantages. Consider in detail the arrangement of the floor on the ground.
Floor on the ground: pros and cons
Let's start with the fact that this type of floor is a "layer cake". And each layer has its own functions and its purpose, thanks to such a device, the floor on the ground has a number of advantages:
There are not many disadvantages, but they are still there:
Cannot be used on shaky ground.
How to make the correct floor structure on the ground
We will consider with you the correct classic floor structure, which will consist of 9 layers. Let's analyze each layer separately.
It should be said right away that for each master and specialist, the number of layers may vary, and the materials may also differ.
This type of flooring is ideal for a strip type of foundation. The average thickness of the "floor pie" is approximately 60-70 cm. This should be taken into account when building a foundation.
If you do not have enough foundation height, then select the soil, up to a given depth. We level the surface and tamp it. For convenience, in the corners around the entire perimeter, a scale should be applied in 5 cm increments, so it will be more convenient to navigate in layers and levels.
It is important that for compacting the soil it is best to rent a vibrating plate, since the manual method will take a lot of time and will not give such results as a special device.
Clay... If during the sampling of the land you have reached a layer of clay, then you should not fill in a new one. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm. 
Clay is sold in bags, we pour it out and moisten it with a special solution (4 liters of water + 1 teaspoon of liquid glass), and we tamp it with a vibrating plate. After tamping, spill a layer of clay with cement milk (10 liters of water + 2 kg. Cement).
We make sure that there are no puddles. As soon as you spill clay with this composition, the glass crystallization process begins.
You should not do anything for a day, it is worth waiting for the crystallization process to take hold, and it will end in about 14-16 days. This layer prevents the main flow of water from entering the ground.
Waterproofing layer... The task of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture. You can use roofing material, polymer-bitumen materials, PVC membranes and polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.4 mm.
In the case of using roofing material, it is preferable to lay it in two layers, on liquid bitumen. Lay the waterproofing overlap with each other and on the walls.
Between themselves 10-15 cm, and on the walls to the height of the floor level. Be sure to glue the seams with construction tape. You should wear soft shoes when walking on waterproofing material.
Insulation+ vapor barrier layer... The best material for insulation is extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). For reference, EPS with a thickness of 5 cm can replace a 70 cm layer of expanded clay.
But you can also use perlite concrete and sawdust concrete. Insulation sheets are laid without joints, so that one plane is formed.
The thickness is determined depending on the region, the recommended thickness of the insulation is 5-10 cm. Some use mats with a thickness of 5 cm, and lay two layers, with an offset of the seams, and the upper seams are glued with special tape.
In order to remove the cold bridges from the foundation or basement, the insulation is laid vertically and fixed with dowels from the inside. Experts recommend insulating the basement and outside, with one sheet of insulation and also fixing it with dowels. 
On top of the insulation, lay a layer of vapor barrier. It is best to use PVC membranes as a vapor barrier material, they do not lend themselves to decay and have a long service life. The disadvantage of this material is its high cost.
The main task of the vapor barrier material is to protect the insulation from the harmful alkaline effects of the concrete solution. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm and glued with construction tape.
Smoothing is performed using a rule or a vibrating screed. As soon as the solution dries, the beacons should be removed, and the cavities should be filled with solution.
The entire concrete floor should be covered with foil and watered periodically. In a month, the concrete will gain full strength. To pour concrete with my own hands, I make a solution of the following composition: cement + river sand in a ratio of 1 to 3.
In the case of using floor heating technology, water or electric. Be sure to install a rough floor screed on the ground. 
After laying the insulation, the pipes or wires are laid. Then we fill the cavities with concrete, lay the reinforcing elements and continue pouring concrete to the specified level.
Ground flooring technology can be used not only in brick and stone houses, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach and correct calculations, the layers do not harm the wooden elements.
Finishing floor covering... The resulting concrete surface is suitable for any kind of finish flooring. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.
As mentioned above, the combination of components and the number of layers can be different. It all depends on your finances and capabilities.
Conclusion
As we all know, from 20 to 30% of the heat can go through the floor. In cases where there is no “warm floor” system, the floors should be insulated as much as possible, and this in turn increases the energy efficiency of the whole house.
The owner of a private house gets comfort, coziness and savings on utility bills. Insulated floors on the ground are a highly effective and long-term choice for every owner.
Underfloor heating is considered a complex engineering task in itself. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the phased device.
Laying underfloor heating on the ground refers to complex engineering measures. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long service life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the flooring under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, proceed consistently and strictly follow the recommendations of the device technology.
What pipes are suitable for underfloor heating
The first thing to do is to decide on the type of heat pipes. While the issue of purchasing the required type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will be familiar with the pipe fastening system from the very beginning, and you will provide everything necessary for this.
So, let's start with the rejection of pipes that do not have such a designated purpose as being used in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipes. The former do not show themselves in the best way in terms of reliability, the latter poorly conduct heat and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.
Initially, a convenient and reliable installation system for temporary fastening of pipes is selected. It can also be a reinforcing mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installation in this way on an area of 100 m 2 or if suddenly several ties come off during the pouring of concrete. Therefore, a mounting substrate or rail system should be used. They are attached to the base of the floor while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click clamps.
The fastening system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.
Finally, we decide on the material of the pipes. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the mounting technology eliminates the human factor during bending and joining.
Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubing is easy to install, requiring a bottle of flux and a gas torch for soldering. Copper manifests itself best in systems of "fast" underfloor heating, which works in parallel with radiators, but not on a permanent basis. Bending of copper pipes is carried out according to a template, respectively, their break is extremely unlikely.
Polyethylene. This is the more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically not subject to breakage, but a special crimping tool is required for installation. Polyethylene can have different density, it is recommended not less than 70%. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene is poorly resistant to diffuse penetration of gases, at the same time, water in a pipe of this length can entrain oxygen in significant volumes from the external environment.
Soil preparation
When installing a warm floor on the ground, a "cake" is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined on an individual basis. But these data are important already at the first stage of work, so that, if necessary, deepen the earthen floor and not sacrifice the height of the room.
In general, the soil is removed 30-35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in the horizontal plane, an incompressible material is added over the geotextile layer, in most cases, ASG is used for this.
After careful manual compaction of the bedding, preparation is carried out with low grade concrete. For the purpose of additional thermal insulation, this layer can consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface is brought out into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the cake plus about 10-15 mm more.
The choice of insulation
The water-heated floor cake consists of insulation tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. A rather narrow number of requirements are imposed on the insulation itself.
Compressive strength is mainly normalized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as they are more fireproof. If desired, you can use slabs of mineral wool grade 225 according to GOST 9573-96. Cotton wool is often rejected due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydro-barrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that the minimum thickness of the slab is 40 mm, while with a reflective screen made of EPPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20-25 mm.
Foam materials also serve as a good barrier against moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require a waterproofing device. Many can be stopped by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).
The thickness of the insulation is determined by the heat engineering calculation. If concrete with expanded clay as a filler was used in the preparation, 10-15 mm EPS or 60 mm mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values must be increased by 50%.
Preparatory and accumulating screeds
It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between the two ties and that any movement or vibrations are excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation plates are glued onto it using tile glue under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If mineral wool is used, the concrete preparation must first be covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.
The screed layer above the insulation must be of such a thickness that its overall thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the heat shield. In general, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5-2 cm of the total height of the ceilings, but to adjust the inertia of the warm floor, you can freely "play" with this value. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.
The top layer of the screed, subjected to heating, is poured after the walls have been enclosed with a damper tape. For convenience, the accumulation screed can be poured in two stages. On the first, about 15-20 mm are poured with reinforcement with a rare mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting plane and fix the pipe installation system, the rest is poured to the level of the zero mark minus the thickness of the floor covering.
1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel bedding; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - hydro-vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - underfloor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 - floor covering; 10 - damper tape
System installation, proportions and loop pitch
Underfloor heating pipes should be laid according to a previously thought out scheme drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate loop of the loop.
The same principle applies to floor zoning. For example, in the play area, pipes can be laid at a more frequent pace, and it is advisable not to lay them under the cabinet furniture at all. In each individual coil of a rectangular shape, depending on the priority of heating, the tubes can be laid either with a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. The general rule is simple: the further a specific point is from the beginning of the channel, the lower its temperature, on average, there is a drop of 1.5-2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal loop length is in the range of 50-80 meters.
The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the permissible bending radius. A denser gasket is possible in a snail pattern or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to adhere to a distance equal to 20-30 values of the tube diameter. Allowance must also be made for the thickness of the accumulation screed and the desired heating rate of the floor.
The installation system is attached along the route through the insulation to the layer of concrete preparation, respectively, the length of the fastener (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% longer than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.
When laying the pipe, you should figure out an impromptu spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all hinges are secured to the installation system, they are tested with high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the top layer of the accumulation screed is poured.
Inclusion of a warm floor in the heating system
It is recommended to lay whole pipe sections without joints in the screed layer. The loop tails can either be brought down to local collectors or lead directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is slightly removed from the boiler or if all rooms have a common corridor for which indirect heating is sufficient.
The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to the manifold assembly. Each of the taps is equipped with shut-off valves, ball valves with a red flywheel are installed on the supply pipes, and with a blue one on the return. A threaded transition with shut-off valves is required for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, purging or flushing it.
An example of a connection diagram for a warm water floor to the heating system: 1 - heating boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - underfloor heating manifold cabinet
The connection of the collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators, two-pipe and combined switching schemes are possible. In addition to the thermostat, the manifold units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the heat carrier in the supply of about 35-40 ºС.
Floor arrangement is one of the most important moments in renovation or construction. And if we are talking about a private house, this issue becomes even more acute. In many house projects, floors are very often designed on the ground, this is quite reliable and one of the most practical and inexpensive options. Currently, warm floors are becoming more and more in demand and popular every day, so many prefer this particular type of heating in the house. Reliable thermal insulation of the floor will provide warmth and comfort in it, and also significantly reduce the cost of its maintenance. After all, underfloor heating perfectly retains heat in the house, creates comfortable living conditions, and in some cases replaces central heating.
What is a warm floor cake on the ground
When arranging floors on the ground, it is a must thermal insulation, thanks to this, a multilayer structure is obtained, which is very often called a warm floor pie. This design is a lot like a puff cake, as it consists of several layers. I would like to say that the construction of a floor on the ground largely depends on the condition of the ground. It must meet some requirements. For example, the groundwater level should be at a depth of 5-6 meters, soils should not be loose, for example, sandy or black earth. In addition, it is necessary take into account the load on the floor... It should be noted that the underfloor heating cake should provide:
- thermal insulation of the room;
- protection from groundwater;
- sound insulation in the house;
- prevent the accumulation of water vapor inside the floor;
- provide comfortable living conditions.
What does the underfloor heating pie consist of?
By its design, the underfloor heating pie on the ground consists of several layers, each layer is laid in stages.
Depending on the design features of the floor and some other important factors, the underfloor heating cake on the ground may have a different composition and different thickness.
Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating
Dignity:
disadvantages:
- underfloor heating, depending on design features, can significantly reduce the height of the room;
- in the event of a malfunction of this system, it is very difficult and expensive to dismantle the floor layers;
- sometimes it rather long and complicated procedure, which is desirable to perform during the construction of the house;
- the need to take into account position of groundwater.
Laying options for a warm floor pie
There are several options for laying the underfloor heating cake on the ground. This may depend on the level of groundwater flow, operating loads on the floor, the type of underfloor heating and some other factors. The above option can be considered the main one, where the main underlying layer is concrete layer. The cake is laid in another way, where the concrete layer is replaced by a sand cushion, its thickness is 100-150 mm. The sequence is the same, although it is much more difficult to ensure a level base than with a concrete screed.
Depending on the thermal insulation materials, there may also be different options for the underfloor heating cake. Choosing as insulation expanded polystyrene, the stacking of the cake will be as follows:
Excellent insulation - mineral wool slabs, which have a high density, resist deformation and are durable. This material is advised to be laid in two layers. For less moisture absorption, they are treated with a water-repellent compound. Used as an insulating layer in a warm floor cake and expanded clay. This is a fairly simple and inexpensive option. When laying the cake, applying expanded clay, as a heater, you do not need to install additional waterproofing, and expanded clay replaces a layer of gravel and screed. There are several more fairly effective ways to lay the warm floor cake using some other thermal insulation materials.
Technology for assembling a pie underfloor heating
The installed floors on the ground are one of the most successful options, which reduces the cost of their construction, saves time and labor. And a competently arranged warm floor cake will provide warmth, comfort and coziness in the house for many years.
In your home, you may need a water floor heating device on the ground. Subject to compliance with the existing SNiP, you can independently perform the work, starting from bedding and ending with a finishing screed, followed by finishing with a floor covering.
Is it possible to make a water floor on the ground
A pie of a water-heated floor on the ground can be made provided that the method of installing the heating system using a concrete screed is used. Laying allows you to simultaneously achieve several goals: to make a subfloor and prepare a base for a topcoat.The construction of a water-heated floor on the ground provides for the work that is usually used to prepare a concrete slab in industrial and residential buildings. The result of the work largely depends on the achievement of several tasks:
- Providing reliable thermal insulation that prevents the floor from freezing.
- Protection of the premises from the appearance of dampness.
- Prevention of board cracking after several years of operation.
What "pie" should be under a warm floor
The layout of the flooring on the ground is somewhat different from the usual pie used to install the heating system on an already finished base. The following stages of work are carried out:
To make a water floor on the ground with your own hands, it will take from 20 days to 1.5 months. You can speed up the installation process by ordering ready-made cement mixes.
The main mistakes when installing a water floor on the ground
When working on fill soil, it is easy to make mistakes that lead to the destruction of the slab in the future. It is required to strictly observe the step-by-step production of a water floor heating cake, starting from the ground. It would be optimal to perform a preliminary heat engineering calculation, which allows you to accurately determine the thickness of the backfill, thermal insulation and the power of the heating system.
Common mistakes during installation are:
- Violations of the technology for installing a warm water floor on the ground. The absence of expansion gaps in the slab, poorly performed work on tamping the powder, improperly installed waterproofing, subsequently cause freezing of the screed, accumulation of condensate and dampness in the room.
- Be sure to sprinkle sand in front of the crushed stone on the soil base. In this case, you can use any kind of raw material, but river sand of a coarse fraction will be optimal. The minimum soil density after compaction depends on the weather and atmospheric conditions of the area and is calculated according to special tables.