How to enlarge a window sill? We have so little space in our apartments that it is a crime not to use a place that will be wasted in our conditions! Therefore, I decided to enlarge the windowsill with my own hands!
The frame of the enlarged window sill was made in 1998 and has already passed
We continue to review our repair.
The first photo of an enlarged window sill with your own hands. Photographed therefore, the quality is not very ...
The quality of the photograph, of course, leaves much to be desired, but this is the only and first photograph of an enlarged window sill.
If you could turn left, you would see, which I also wrote about.
What we have? A small windowsill, a small apartment, and a small kitchen!
Required: a large window sill, simply because there is so little space, and when it is not used, then those things that could be there take up other places.
And the place above the battery is a dead place - there is just emptiness. So I decided to make such a window sill. I didn't want to break the old window sill and start major repairs, so the solution came as follows:
We need a piece of chipboard that will increase the sill itself. So that it does not fall under any load, we put vertical posts, which will be the supporting structures for the elongated window sill.
We attach a 5 cm wide board along the entire length of the concrete window sill. In order to attach a new window sill on top.
The vertical posts are fixed at the corners, holes are drilled in the concrete wall. And fixed on simple dowels 6 mm by 40 mm. There are 2 corners for each rack.
When you get a stable structure, in the reliability of which you have no doubt, you need to combine the concrete window sill and its elongation.
I took an ordinary fiberboard, and put it on top of a concrete window sill. Fill with Titanium glue. We don't want to!
We drill carefully, because there are no reinforcement in the concrete window sills, so it can easily crack!
From the side of the chipboard, we nail the fiberboard with small carnations.
I made a rounding on the right, because I have a door there on
Well, there was little space left to the right of the battery, I made two shelves, the width of the shelf turned out to be 17 cm.
I had leftovers from a roll of wood-like wallpaper that I bought for the balcony ceiling.
Cut out a strip for the end, leave at least 1 cm so that there is an overlap. And on top we glue the main piece.
I used ordinary wallpaper glue.
We varnish at least 3 times. I had it nitrolac.
The second photo of the enlarged window sill with your own hands.
Since there is generally no photograph of the enlarged window sill in its original form in a more or less decent quality, here is our photo before the next repair, around 2007 ...
Since I have a lot of materials, it is impossible to calculate the cost of manufacturing a window sill!
How much does it cost to enlarge a window sill?
Everything is made from leftovers. The only thing purchased was white paint.
Total spent on materials:
A piece of chipboard - 0.00 rubles.
A piece of fiberboard - 0.00 rubles.
Clay Titanium - 0.00 rubles.
Wallpaper glue - 0.00 rubles
Varnish - 0.00 rubles.
Paint 1.0 liter - 150 rubles.
The amount of time spent making a wide window sill.
Approximately 7 - 8 days.
Enlarged sill version 1.1
And as they say in some films ... our days, well, or almost our days ... I already did this in 2010. The task was not to make major repairs, but only to bring the marafet. That quick painting + ripped off the texture paper. A little stuffed just needed to be trimmed. And on top, I just decided to glue the cladding film under the tree.
At the bottom of the shelf I also decided not to paint, but to glue the cladding film. In my opinion, it turned out well.
Of course! And here the quality of the photo is lame, then I did not have this
So, in order, the information is confirmed by the test reports of the leading manufacturers of polystyrene concrete, I made a conclusion for myself and wrote at the end of the commentary. WATER RESISTANCE and HYGROSCOPICITY This is the most important property of any building material, especially in areas with high humidity. The higher the moisture resistance of the material, the more durable, stable and warmer it is. Polystyrene concrete absorbs no more than 6% moisture from the atmosphere; it can be outdoors for almost unlimited time. STRENGTH Due to the super-strong cement-polystyrene matrix, polystyrene concrete has unique strength characteristics. This material is so strong that a fall from the height of a five-story building will not cause significant damage to the block. FIRE RESISTANCE Polystyrene concrete does not burn, it is able to withstand huge temperatures caused by fire, due to its unique coefficient of thermal conductivity, does not allow heat to penetrate deep into the wall. Flammability class NG. Fire resistance class EI180. DURABILITY The service life of a polystyrene concrete house is at least 100 years. Over the years, the strength of polystyrene concrete only increases. FROST RESISTANCE Tests for frost resistance and amplitude of temperature fluctuations from + 75 ° C to - 30 ° C were carried out on 150 freeze-thaw cycles without loss of integrity and thermal insulation capacity. THERMAL INSULATION It has long been recognized that polystyrene (foam) is the best heat insulator in the world, it is even warmer than wood! A house made of polystyrene concrete does not require insulation: it is cool in summer and warm in winter. NOISE INSULATION Polystyrene concrete provides the best rate of noise absorption, 18-20 cm attenuates sound from 70 decibels. Consequently, in a house made of polystyrene concrete there is special comfort: noises from the street and from inside from neighboring rooms and bathrooms are not disturbed. ECONOMY The cost per square meter of the finished wall is cheaper than other materials. Due to the high level of heat preservation, walls made of polystyrene concrete can be erected 25% thinner than from alternative materials (aerated concrete and foam concrete) and 4 times thinner than from brick. Saving on wall thickness leads to an overall saving on the construction of the box (foundation, roof and walls) up to 50%. At the same time, the quality of the house will be even higher, and the house itself will be warmer. SEISMIC RESISTANCE Seismic resistance 9-12 points. Polystyrene concrete has not only compressive strength, but also the highest tensile and flexural strength. Therefore, polystyrene concrete is considered the most reliable and earthquake-resistant material. LIGHTNESS A large-sized block 200x300x600 mm does not exceed the weight of 17 kg, which facilitates the work of a bricklayer and reduces the time for laying walls: it replaces 20 bricks in volume, and is almost three times lighter in weight. ANTISEPTICITY The additive used in the manufacture of polystyrene concrete does not allow insects, rodents to enter the walls, prevents the formation of mold and mildew, which have a negative impact on health. STEAM PERMISSION Walls made of polystyrene concrete "breathe" similarly to walls made of wood, and there is no danger from condensation and waterlogging for them. This provides a comfortable environment in polystyrene concrete houses. PLASTICITY Plasticity is the only material made of cellular concrete that makes it possible to manufacture window and door lintels, its flexural strength is 50-60% of the compressive strength, for concrete this parameter is 9-11%. CRACK RESISTANCE Polystyrene concrete, due to its elasticity, is incredibly resistant to cracking. And this guarantees a long period of preservation of the interior decoration and the durability of the whole house. TECHNOLOGY High speed of erection of wall structures due to the lightness and convenient geometry of the blocks. Easy to saw and groove, the ability to give the building material any geometric shape. ENVIRONMENTAL The International Building Code (IRC) classifies polystyrene as one of the most energy efficient and environmentally friendly insulation materials. Thus, polystyrene concrete has a lot of undeniable advantages over such materials as expanded clay concrete, autoclaved and non-autoclaved aerated concrete, foam concrete, wood concrete, etc. The disadvantages of polystyrene concrete appear only with the wrong choice of its brand and violation of the masonry technology and preparation for interior decoration. We can say with absolute certainty that there is not a single significant advantage for materials such as aerated concrete and foam concrete over polystyrene concrete. At the same time, polystyrene concrete significantly surpasses them in key characteristics.
Very often in life there is a need to increase the window sill. The reason for the need to increase the window sill is very often an increase in the width of the load-bearing walls.
In order to save money, you can perform this action yourself.
What width should the window sill be?
When installing a plastic window sill, it must be remembered that it should not interfere with the rise of warm air. That is why it is necessary to correctly calculate its width.
The permissible window sill protrusion should not exceed 50-70 millimeters. If the ledge of the window sill is larger, then it will overlap the window sill, which will negatively affect the air circulation.
Under the window itself, it is necessary to bring about 20 millimeters of the window sill. This fact must also be taken into account when calculating its length.
The width of the window sill directly depends on the width of the load-bearing wall. For example, if the width of the load-bearing wall is 50 centimeters, then the plant under the window and the ledge must be added to the width of the window sill.
That is, with a load-bearing wall width of 50 centimeters, the width of the plastic window sill will be 57-59 centimeters.
Flowers are an original design solution for any room. Most often they are placed on window sills.
If the window sill is narrow and it is impossible to place flowers on it, then it is necessary to expand it. It is quite simple to do this, which allows the user to perform this action on his own.
To expand the window sill, it is necessary to make a wooden beam, the width of which will be equal to an indicator of 100 millimeters.
Four holes must be drilled in the front edge of the window sill, the diameter of which will be 12 millimeters. It is also necessary to drill the corresponding holes in the bar at the same distance.
This requires pre-drilling 2 mm holes. In this case, the heads of the nails should be hidden under the windowsill, so as not to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the window.
In order to simplify the task of placing a bar on metal rods, it is necessary to clean the holes from dust. For this purpose, a special brush is used.
In order to save space in the room, a countertop can be made from the window sill. This countertop can be widely used in the kitchen, bedroom or study.
Initially, it is necessary to make measurements of the window sill, which will be used to make the countertop. In this case, the height of the table top must fully correspond to the height of the window sill.
The far edge of the tabletop must be attached to the support profile, and the near one will rest on two specially made pedestals.
When installing the curbstone, it is imperative to align it vertically. It should completely coincide with the plane of the window sill. It is best to order cabinets for this, which will have adjustable legs.
After installing the curbstones, it is necessary to make a base for the countertop. For this purpose, you can use plywood with a thickness of at least 12 millimeters.
To protect the countertop from swelling, it is necessary to choose moisture-resistant plywood. The base for the future countertop is cut in accordance with its configuration. For this purpose, a jigsaw.
The final stage in the installation of the table top is to place the plywood on the pedestals. Other materials can be used as a tabletop, but they will be much more difficult to process to match the shape of the tabletop.
Moreover, they are much stronger and more reliable than plywood.
And also watch a video on how to make a tabletop from a window sill:
Yes, to be sure, many typical apartments with standard windows cannot please us with wide window sills. What would you like to do for indoor plant lovers? After all, the windowsill is the most suitable place for domestic green pets, the brightest and sunniest in our climate - we do not live in Africa. What if the standard width of the window sill allows you to put only a tiny pot of cactus? The answer is simple - expand. How? Very simple - by yourself!
First you need to stock up on the necessary materials. Before that, in order to avoid mistakes, we carefully measure the existing window sill - its thickness, length and depth. It is best to take a couple more photos so as not to get confused in the store from the abundance of materials and quickly choose the one you need. And it will be easier to get a specialist's consultation in the building materials department, having with you a visual illustration of what needs to be expanded.
So, it is supposed to return from the store, having with him a board of the required size and color, several brackets and corners for them, as well as long screws and self-tapping screws. In addition, we advise you to stock up on new holders-brackets for the cornice in advance - longer. Since the window sill will eventually become wider, the curtains will need to be outweighed further from the window. Is it possible to hang your cornice away from the wall? If not, then at the same time we buy new brackets for the cornice. You may also need, depending on the method of building and on the material of the window sill, epoxy glue and materials for cutting wood.
The very process of building a window sill depends, first of all, on the material of its manufacture. If we build up a wooden window sill, then the procedure will look like this. We make a groove in the front edge of the window sill. Accordingly, from the edge of the prepared reach, we cut out a comb that exactly matches the groove in size. Then we fasten three or four brackets to the bottom of the window sill. Each bracket must be supported by at least three screws. And immediately we attach the board to the brackets, carefully driving the comb into the groove. Everything, the windowsill is ready! If the dimensions of the resulting structure allow, it is better for other reliability on the sides to screw it to the wall also with the help of brackets.
If the window sill is not wooden, but made of another material, for example, chipboard or plastic, we act differently. We take three pins with a diameter of 10-15 mm and a length of at least 100 mm. These pins will hold the new part of the window sill. In the front edge of the window sill and the board, we symmetrically drill the holes for the pins. First, we drive the pins into the board. And then we put the board with the pins on the windowsill. To make the structure more durable, you can grease the pins with epoxy glue. The tighter they fit, the better!
If there is still a gap between the native window sill and the enlarged part, it can be putty, dried and then painted with a suitable paint. That's it, the wide window sill is ready, you can safely make it with flowers! And do not forget to hang the curtains away from the wall, because we did not forget to buy new crumbs for the cornice, did we?