How to understand that we have a plant suffering from waterlogging? Falling leaves is one of the symptoms. In a number of plants, such as citrus fruits, they literally fall off - they darken and fall off. In others, for example, in aroids (aglaonema, dieffenbachia) or arrowroot, they darken, but they still hold on to the stems for a long time. In plants that form rosettes of leaves or pseudo rosettes (yucca, dracaena), the leaves do not darken immediately, but at first discolor, become pale yellow. But in other cases, the characteristic difference between leaves that die from waterlogging is leaf darkening. The leaf does not just turn yellow, it just darkens, the color turns from a healthy juicy green muddy-bog shade, gradually turns into brown. If overmoistening was preceded by overdrying, then the leaf first turns yellow, then the leaf petiole and the leaf itself darken.
Decayed roots exfoliate, the top layer of the root becomes dirty gray, peels off if you run your fingers, leaving a thin, hard core. These roots all died from waterlogging.
And these are healthy living roots - green, yellowish or whitish, some plants have a juicy brown color.
Sudden or gradual flying around leaves, blackening of shoots, damp sour earth ...
The trunk still seems alive, green, but the roots have rotted, the plant can no longer be saved.
When there is not enough water for the plant, the leaves always turn yellow, while the leaf tissue may lose elasticity, droop, or may remain dry. After watering, the turgor is restored, the leaves become elastic again. If there is insufficient nutrition, then mezhilkovy chlorosis may appear, the leaves do not droop, continue to grow, but become smaller. When waterlogged, the leaves can lose their elasticity, droop, but after watering, the elasticity is not restored, and the darkening of the leaves, on the contrary, increases. Sometimes the leaves can fall off even without darkening - still green. But leaf fall can also occur from watering with cold water. Ideally, the water temperature for irrigation should be 2-3 ° C higher than the room temperature, but not lower than 22 ° C. Cold water is not absorbed by the roots, it causes the death of the suction roots from hypothermia, and, as a result, leaves fall.
As for the hardness of the water, it cannot be the reason for the sudden fall of leaves and the death of the plant. If you water the plants with hard water, even the most capricious ones that are sensitive to excess salts, the plants will not begin to lose leaves en masse. All harm manifests itself gradually: first, chlorosis spots appear, the tips or edges of the leaves turn brown, one or two leaves turn yellow, new leaves grow small and the plant looks depressed, but leaves do not fall off.
In case of massive leaf fall, when the leaves fall off not one by one, but dozens at once, the reasons may be as follows: sudden hypothermia (for example, when transporting home), watering with concentrated fertilizer (burning roots), severe drying out, and only hygrophytes and mesohygrophytes fly around en masse (and there are few of them), and waterlogging. Naturally, the first two reasons can be easily calculated, and it is also possible to distinguish overdrying from waterlogging, but for this the plant must be removed from the pot. It is not always possible to touch the soil with your finger at a depth (for example, the roots have grown a lot), and only after taking the plant out of the pot, you can determine whether the earth is wet inside the root ball.
Some growers pull until the last, not wanting to take out the plant and examine the roots. They are either selflessly confident that there was no waterlogging, or they are afraid that an unscheduled transplant will damage the plant. But if there is even the slightest suspicion of waterlogging, do not even hesitate - remove and inspect the roots. Sometimes the root system of plants grows in this way: at the top, the roots are not thick, the soil dries out easily between them, and in the lower part of the pot, the roots twist a tight ring, the interlacing of the roots makes it difficult to dry and in the lower part of the pot the soil dries for a very long time. This is especially aggravated by the fact that the holes at the bottom of the pot are small, clogged with pebbles or grains of earth.
On tangerine, the result of waterlogging and acidification of the earth. Chlorosis is a lack of various trace elements.
Such a deplorable state is the result of hypothermia of the root system: watering with cold water or the plant is left with damp earth on a cold balcony, on the street.
There is also a deplorable symptom, characteristic of the strongest prolonged waterlogging - darkening, blackening and wilting of the tops of the shoots. If a similar picture has occurred, then the case is already very much neglected, often it is simply impossible to save the plant. If the tops of all the shoots have rotted (turned yellow or darkened), there is nothing to save. A similar picture is possible only with strong hypothermia of the roots, and never occurs when overdrying. When dry, wilting begins from old leaves, from the lower shoots, the trunk is bare from below. When waterlogged, the leaves wither in any part of the crown, but more often from above, from the tops of the shoots.
And of course, any softening of the stems or leaves of plants with fleshy parts of the body, and these are yuccas, dracaena, dieffenbachia, any succulents (fat women, adeniums, etc.), cacti are a sure sign of excess moisture.
Another symptom, which is not entirely correct and does not always indicate a specific plant, but still makes you think, is the presence of mushroom mosquitoes. If a swarm of midges flies up from the pot, it means that you watered the flowers too abundantly, perhaps it was once or twice, or perhaps it has become a habit of over-watering. Unlike mosquitoes, podura (colembols) are white or dirty gray insects, about 1-2 mm, jumping on the surface of the earth in a pot - a sure sign that the flower is flooded more than once.
Rescue measures for flooded plants
When you do establish that the plant has been flooded, you need to urgently take action. If you have established the fact of waterlogging after you removed the plant from the pot, then you have to transplant. If the fact of waterlogging was determined by indirect signs (leaf fall, damp earth to the touch), then the need for a transplant depends on the severity of the situation that has arisen.
- If the plant has lost one or two leaves, or one branch has withered in the mighty crown, and the soil in the pot is light enough, then you can not replant the plant, but only loosen the soil. After watering, especially abundant watering, the soil spreads, and after drying, a dense crust forms on its surface. If this crust is not destroyed, then the roots suffer from a lack of air. If the seedlings are watered, then the seedlings may not come to the surface of the earth and die from hypoxia.
- If the pot has small drainage holes, you can widen them or increase their number without removing the plant from the pot, using a knife heated on the stove.
- Personally, I never try to just loosen the ground, it is not too reliable and justified in cases where a flooded plant in a very large pot, transplanting is difficult, or when the plant is transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and the very rise in temperature will accelerate the drying of the earth.
- In all other cases, it is better to transplant the plant.
Signs of a bay in orchids - the leaves of the phalaenopsis turn yellow, they are lethargic, wrinkled. The bark dries for a very long time, the roots rot from constant contact with a damp surface.
Rotten roots must be pruned. In some cases, the new pot will have to be made smaller than it was before.
So, you take the plant out of the pot, and you need to determine the condition of the soil and roots. Still, is the earth damp and how much? Count when you last watered and how much it dried. Sometimes a person is convinced that the soil is dry for a long time, say, a week has passed after watering, and upon examination it turns out that the soil inside the pot is still very damp. Then try to remember what the weather was like, how it happened that the soil did not have time to dry out! It is important to at least try to analyze in order to prevent this, or calculate which plants could still be flooded. For some people, bays happen systematically over and over again. This suggests that it is necessary to radically revise the system of care: perhaps change the soil in the pots to a more structured, loose one, increase the drainage holes, add more drainage to the bottom of the pot; water with less water; move the plants to a warmer room or water less often when the ground dries out more. Sometimes you have to literally slap yourself on the hands so that you do not rise with a watering can above the plant ahead of time ...
Examine the roots. Rotten can be seen right away - they exfoliate, if you grab the root with two fingers and pull, the skin slides off it - it is brown or dark gray, under it there is a bundle of blood vessels that looks like a wire, a hard rod. If such stratification occurs, the root is rotten. Healthy roots do not delaminate; if you run your fingers over the surface, the top layer will not come off. In some cases, the roots do not exfoliate, the fleshy succulent roots rot completely, and this can also be seen immediately - they are dark, dirty gray or brown in color, sometimes softened. Often, healthy roots and rotten ones can be identified by the contrast in appearance, some are light, white, light brown, others are dark, not only outside, but also on fractures or cliffs.
There are times when rotten roots easily break off and, when the plant is removed from the pot, fall off along with the ground. If you did not find definitely rotten roots, but the earth and root ball are damp, you need to dry them. To do this, we blot with a bark ball in any hygroscopic material: in a heap of old newspapers, in a roll of toilet paper. You can even put a plant with an open root system (without a pot) to dry for several hours.
Having found rotten roots, you need to cut them off, no matter how many of them. This is the source of the infection, there is nothing to regret. We cut everything to healthy tissue. If the roots are fleshy, juicy, watery, then it is advisable to sprinkle the cuts with charcoal (wood, birch) or sulfur powder (sold in pet stores). If neither is available, crush an activated charcoal tablet. If there are very few roots left, much less than it was, you need to transplant the plant into a smaller pot.
I have already said that a pot that is too spacious, not filled with roots, does not contribute to the rapid growth of plants, and in some cases even hurts. In a spacious pot, the plant is easier to pour. And even if watered carefully, the plant seeks to build up the root system, to develop a large surface of the earth, and only then enhances the growth of the ground part.
Substrate for aroid, bromeliad and other plants. Instead of a pot, a basket, a substrate: earth, coconut fiber, coconut substrate, wine cork, pine bark and moss (its very small). The decaying anthurium transplanted into this mixture bloomed a month later and releases a third bud.
If you have a tendency to flood your plants, use clay pots to plant your plants. But there is one important point: the inside of the pot should not be glazed. If the walls of a clay pot are covered with glaze from the inside, it is no better than a plastic one.
So, you need to pick up a pot for the root ball remaining after removing the rot. In this case, the rule will be effective: a smaller pot is better than a larger one. It's okay if the pot is small, healthy roots will grow, they will notify you with their appearance from the drainage holes, and you just transfer the plant into a larger pot and that's it. During the growing season, plants can be transplanted at any time and more than once. Most plants, if they get sick after transplanting, stop growing, this is most often due to improper care after transplantation, and not from root injuries.
After transplanting, you cannot put the plants in the sun, even the most light-loving ones, they should be shaded for a week. You cannot water the plants on the same day, especially those reanimated from overflow - these are generally watered in 2-3 days for the first time. Do not fertilize transplanted plants for 1-1.5 months. And when transplanting patients (including flooded ones), you can not add dry fertilizers (no manure, no dung, no granular fertilizers). Do not seal the transplanted plant in a plastic bag. This very package sometimes becomes a real evil. The fact is that transplanted plants, deprived of watering, must be placed in conditions of high humidity in the first days. And many tend to shove the plant in a bag and tie it tighter. In this case, the importance, of course, increases. But oxygen access is reduced. As we remember, the plant breathes with roots and leaves, if the plant was flooded, it especially needs fresh air, and if pathogenic microorganisms have developed on it - various spots of fungal or bacterial origin, then it just needs fresh air!
Here you can do this: place the plant in a transparent bag, straighten its edges, but do not tie it. If the weather is very hot, then you can spray it 1-2 times a day, if the plants do not tolerate water getting on the leaves, then simply place the pot on a wide tray of water on an inverted saucer.
If the plant has rotten tops, the ends of the shoots, they must be cut to healthy tissues. If there is an opportunity, at the same time, cut the healthy branches for rooting in order to be able to preserve at least something if the bay has already led to irreversible consequences. Sometimes it happens that the roots rot completely, but some of the shoots are still vigorous until they wither (this is temporary) and cuttings can still be cut from them. In some cases, when roots rot, toxins (the aforementioned swamp gases, products of bacteria and fungi activity) enter the vascular system of plants and cut cuttings, even healthy-looking cuttings do not take root, they are already doomed ...
After transplanting, the flooded plant can be sprayed with growth stimulants (epin or amulet), only in the dark (most stimulants decompose in the light). If there are dark spots on the leaves that have rotted tops of the shoots, then it is advisable to spray the plant with a fungicide, or add the fungicide to the water for irrigation. Suitable fungicides: Fundazol, Maxim, Hom, Oxyhom (and other copper-containing preparations). 3-4 days after transplanting into fresh dry soil, the plant can be watered with zircon solution.
If a plant with a wide rosette of leaves, in the form of a funnel, like in bromeliads, is flooded, then it is necessary to dry the base of the leaves. To do this, you first need to turn the plant upside down with its leaves. When the water drains, pour 2-3 tablets of crushed activated carbon into the outlet. After 3-5 minutes, gently remove it with a soft fluffy brush. Many bromeliads rot when watered through a rosette of leaves in winter. Read carefully the recommendations for growing a particular plant, and especially care in the winter.
Another important point: after the flooding, the soil in the pot sours: the roots of plants continue to emit carbon dioxide, humus renewal slows down, and humic acids accumulate, which increases the acidity of the soil, many nutrients pass into a form indigestible to plants. For example, iron transforms into an oxidized form (F3 +), which forms a rusty brown crust on the surface of the earth. Oxidized iron is not assimilated, as a result, the plant shows all the signs of its deficiency - severe chlorosis. This is especially noticeable on fruit plants: there are signs of deficiency of calcium, iron, nitrogen. At this stage, some growers do not pay attention to the condition of the soil, and are in a hurry to treat the effect, not the cause. As a result, the plant continues to suffer, turn yellow. At times, it gets better (for example, after spraying with ferovite), and after fertilizing the soil, it gets even worse.
In such a situation, the only way out is to completely replace the land. And if you are in a hurry to apply fertilizers, then it is advisable to rinse the roots when transplanting under a stream of warm water. Then dry, remove rotten ones, sprinkle with charcoal and plant in fresh, dry soil.
If a white or red salt crust forms on the surface of the earth, this is a signal: the earth dries for a long time! Such a salt crust must be removed, the top layer of the earth must be replaced with a fresh one.
Sooner or later, a transplant is necessary for all indoor plants. But in the case of giants, indoor large-sized ones, it is not carried out as long as possible, since this is not an easy task. And rarely, what adult plants need an annual transplant, not having time to master all the soil in pots. In years when the transplant is not carried out, it is almost always recommended to perform a mandatory procedure - a partial soil replacement. The topsoil is replaced both for hygiene purposes and to maintain the normal state of the substrate.
Partial soil replacement for indoor plants. © Jennifer
Partial soil replacement is a simple procedure that does not require any special skills or knowledge to replace the top layer of the substrate in pots with indoor plants.
Partial soil replacement is needed in several cases:
- when the plant is not transplanted annually, but with a frequency of once every 2-3 years or less, instead of replanting at the optimal time, the contaminated topsoil is replaced;
- for large-sized growers who grow in concrete or stone flower beds, as well as containers that are too heavy to transport or move, replacing the transplant itself with this procedure;
- if the soil becomes acidic, contaminated, moldy, compacted too often and the top layer must be replaced to ensure normal air and water permeability;
- if the plant is infected with pests or diseases, the lesions are serious, it has lost leaves, after treatment with fungicides or insecticides, replacing the upper level of the substrate reduces the risk of a recurrence of the problem, allows you to remove pollution and sources of disease from the substrate;
- if the plant's roots come out on top of the pot, but the plant has not yet filled the substrate and there is no need for a transplant (or it is not possible to carry it out), the contaminated soil is partially removed and a higher layer of earth covering the roots is added.
The replacement of the upper layer of the substrate is traditionally recommended to be carried out at the same time as the transplantation of plants, but early spring or late winter are not at all the only time for such a procedure. In fact, a partial soil replacement can be done any time you need it. If a transplant is replaced with it, then it is true - from the end of February to May. But if a replacement is needed to urgently improve the state of the substrate, it is associated with hygienic, preventive purposes, then it can be carried out at any time, except for winter, and preferably at the stage of active plant growth.
The classical approach to replacing soil instead of replanting has caused another misconception, according to which partial replacement is carried out only once a year, like the transplant itself, for young or actively growing crops. For most small plants, this is really the best option. But if we are talking about indoor giants, which are difficult or impossible to transplant at all, then soil replacement must be carried out at least 2 times a year. After all, they do not completely change the soil for these plants, and in order for the procedure to have even a minimal effect, it will be necessary to replace the top layer of soil in the pot 1 time in six months. In this case, the replacement is carried out in spring and autumn. When replacing the top layer for hygienic or prophylactic purposes, it is carried out as many times as necessary, but not more often than 1 time in 3 months.
The potted soil with a houseplant needs replacing. © Nikki Tilley
How much soil can be removed and replaced is always determined individually. The maximum amount of removed substrate that can be removed from the pots is a quarter of the total soil. But it is always better to focus on a specific plant. The golden rule of replacing the topsoil in pots with indoor plants is that only the contaminated soil layer can be removed before the roots of the plant begin to occur. Since contact with the rhizome must be avoided (even the slightest), sometimes we are talking about a very thin layer of soil.
The procedure can only be carried out on a dry substrate. For plants that prefer stable moisture, the top 3-4 cm of soil is allowed to dry. But in any case, it is undesirable to remove the wet substrate and several days should pass after watering.
There is nothing complicated in the process of replacing the upper layer of the substrate. But you should be very careful and attentive, act carefully to eliminate the risk of grazing the roots.
The procedure for changing the top layer of potting soil consists of several steps:
- The container with the plant is transferred to a flat, smooth surface, covered with an insulating film on top or a tub, the container, flower girl is surrounded with film and paper so as to avoid contamination of the floor surface.
- Dry leaves are removed from the culture, the crown is examined, if necessary, sanitary cleaning is carried out, cutting off dry and damaged shoots.
- Clean the leaves from dust and dirt with a soft sponge or textile cloth (if possible).
- If the soil is compacted, a crust has formed on it, water permeability is impaired, a fork or any convenient tool for working with indoor plants loosen the soil slightly without touching the roots.
- The soil is carefully scooped out first along the edge of the pot or container, carefully removing a few centimeters of soil around the circumference or perimeter of the container.
- Having removed the substrate from the edge, they carefully move towards the shoots of the plant, deep into the pot. First, all visible contaminated areas are removed, and then all available soil, which can be removed without touching the roots.
- Having removed all the soil, a fresh substrate is poured on top, suitable for the given plant. The soil level in pots and containers is left unchanged, except for those cases when the roots of the plant were exposed on top: for this procedure, the roots are covered with a substrate so that at least 5 mm of the soil layer forms on top (optimally 1-1.5 cm).
- After carefully cleaning the container, removing dirt, the plants are rearranged on pallets and watered. If the soil subsides heavily, it is slightly filled up.
Add new soil to the pot after partial replacement. © Alexis Plants, for which the topsoil has been changed, resume normal care immediately. Unlike transplanting, there is no need to limit feeding in adaptation or reduction of watering (of course, if such measures are not due to the health of the green pet). For plants that compensate for the lack of transplant in this way, stopping feeding can lead to a lack of nutrients. Obligatory, regular feeding allows you to compensate for the lack of fertility of the rest of the substrate. If the transplant has not been carried out for a very long time, then it is advisable to increase the concentration of fertilizers or add a long-acting fertilizer to the freshly created layer.
A beautiful piece of land to see in a dream or receive is a harbinger of a happy family life.
Well-groomed land with beautiful gardens in a dream is a sign of great family happiness.
Land covered with greenery or moss in a dream - for money or a profitable marriage.
A barren land is a dream for those who face setbacks and bitter losses.
If you dream that the land is sown with wheat, then your hard work will help you enrich yourself.
To kiss or eat the ground in a dream means humiliation and loss.
Vegetables growing on the ground are a sign of grief and trouble.
Seeing fertile, black-earth terrain means your opportunities, which you miss due to laziness or weakness of character. Sometimes such a dream warns of excessive gullibility. The larger the piece of land that you see in a dream, the more wealth, joy and happiness awaits you in life.
If you dream that you are desperately digging the ground, then you should moderate your selfish appetites so that you will not regret it later.
To plow, sow, fertilize, plant seeds in the ground in a dream means profit and increased prosperity. For those getting married, such a dream predicts a strong family and healthy children.
Wet ground, turned into slime, predicts illness. If you get dirty with it, then expect shame and strife. See interpretation: slurry, dirt.
Measuring a piece of land in a dream is a sign of discord with relatives. Measuring a piece of land in a dream portends that your situation will be desperate and your loved ones will pity you. Put the markings on the ground - for divorce or division.
To see the dug earth - sometimes to the funeral. Especially if you see her under the window of your house or near the house of your loved ones.
The shattered earth is dreamed of by those whose life is not arranged. Such a dream does not bode well for them soon.
If rods, sticks, pieces of wire stick out of the ground, then expect a delay in solving your case. In addition, you have enemies who are trying in every possible way to harm you. And this dream also means that you have messed up a lot in your life. Try to correct errors if possible.
To see the earth from a ship in a dream is a sign of imminent success, which will follow long worries and searches.
If you see a foreign country, then soon you will be made an interesting offer related to the trip.
The earth opened up under your feet in a dream - a sign that you are in for a collapse in business and in love. Such a dream predicts long suffering, disappointment and humiliation. See interpretation: earthquake.
Getting bogged down in swampy earth in a dream means that your affairs will stall. If in a dream you are lucky and you get out of the swamp, then fate will generously reward you for your hard work. See interpretation: swamp.
To see diggers in a dream means that the enemies are waiting for your death.
Lying on the ground in a dream is a sign of the unsettledness of your life and the collapse of plans for the future. After such a dream, it may well be that you will lose your livelihood.
If you dream that the earth has collapsed before your eyes, or if you see an earthly failure in a dream, then your plans will fail completely, troubles or misfortunes await you. They say that such a dream predicts good luck for those who owe money or are going on the road, since it promises to the first that they will not have to pay debts, and to others that their road will be successful.
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One of the most common problems when growing indoor plants and garden seedlings is waterlogged soil in a flower pot. Because of this trouble, leaves fall from a flower, a plant, and mold, rot, an unpleasant odor appear in the ground, or flying midges start up, which feed on rapidly decaying roots. The first symptom of excess moisture in the soil is a white coating on its surface. How to get rid of the smell and get rid of it, and what to do with the flower?
If the soil in the flower pot or in the garden has been flooded, then emergency measures must be taken to save the flower. How to save a flooded flower in the country? The first step is to remove the flower from the pot and leave it to dry for several hours. It is advisable to plant the flower in new soil, but if necessary, you can save the old soil by reusing it. To do this, it must be treated with antibacterial solutions and steamed in a microwave oven for 15 minutes. After that, the soil is well dried and used for planting.
If the soil in a flower pot has not yet become covered with green mold, then the symptoms of waterlogging are eliminated quite easily. A little clay, sand or wood ash is poured on top of the soil, which will absorb excess moisture. You can also loosen the soil with a wooden stick and make deep punctures in it, which eliminate excess moisture. The easiest way to dry the soil is to line the potted soil with regular paper towels. It is very important to check the drainage holes of the planting tank if problems arise with the soil. After all, they can be clogged, which is why the soil in the flower pot is constantly wet and does not dry out. You can find out how to make a planter for flowers with your own hands.
Plaque on the surface
If the soil in the flower pot receives excess water, then a white or yellow bloom appears on the surface of the soil. The main reason for this is watering with very hard water. Because of this, a calcareous sediment forms on the surface of the soil, and it turns white. This problem is resolved in several ways. The first thing to start with is to exclude watering flowers with water directly from the tap. It should stand for one day. You can also add citric acid to the water. For one liter of water, half a teaspoon of the substance, thanks to this, it is possible to neutralize lime compounds.
In addition, to prevent the formation of white bloom, the soil is covered with expanded clay, which absorbs excess moisture. And you can also sprinkle the soil in the pot with coarse river sand, which is loosened along with the earth. Such activities have a beneficial effect on the health of the flower roots. The next way to remove excess moisture is to remove the top layer of soil and add dry, leafy soil to the pot. The surest and easiest way to remove plaque on the ground is to install a water filter in your home that will soften hard water. To soften the water, cloth bags with peat are dipped into it.
Mold in pots
When the soil in the flowerpot is very wet, it becomes a breeding ground for mold, so the plant needs to be properly watered and well drained to prevent stagnant water. If the soil is already moldy and black soil bugs have started up, then watering is immediately stopped, and the root system of the plant is dried. The outer layer of soil must be removed at a height of at least 2 cm and replaced with fresh substrate.
If these measures did not give a positive result and the soil in the flower pot remained moist, then all the soil will have to be replaced. Before planting, the flower, together with the earthen lump, is removed from the pot and left to dry for at least one day. The old earth must be thrown away, and the new one must be steamed at a high temperature. If a ceramic pot is used for planting, then it should be doused with boiling water. The ceramic pot needs to be boiled in water for a few minutes.
When the soil grows moldy in a plastic pot, it is better to throw it out, since there are fungal spores on its walls, which will multiply in the new soil. At the bottom of the pot there should be a layer of expanded clay drainage. The top layer of soil is sprinkled with sand, which will help to avoid high humidity.
Midges in the ground
Sometimes the soil in the flower pot is covered with small midges that feed on rot. The first thing to start the fight with midges in orchids is to remove all wilted and poorly decaying parts of the flower, which feed on harmful microorganisms and insects. It is very difficult to deal with them, so it is easier to get rid of the old soil, rinse the roots of the flower and plant it in a new, steamed substrate. It is also necessary to process the roots before transplanting.
Waterlogged soil in a flower pot readily attracts small pests that lay their eggs on the ground. To prevent such a nuisance, the top layer of the flower's soil must always be dry, and sufficient drainage holes must be provided in the pot. To prevent the reproduction of midges, the room in the house must be regularly ventilated and treated with special preparations against insects.
It is advisable to hang flycatchers next to houseplants, since these insects are carriers of all kinds of plant diseases. Alternatively, folk remedies can be used to combat midges. For example, take 20 grams of laundry soap and grate it. Then dissolve it in a liter of water and spray the flowers with this composition once a week. The soil in the pot is also watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, which also gives a good effect.
Bad smell from soil in a flower pot
When the soil in a flower pot emits an unpleasant odor, it stinks, it indicates that there is mold and pathogenic bacteria inside.
To prevent the earth from smelling, it is necessary to remove the upper part of the soil. The remaining soil is treated with a disinfectant solution from basezol or water with manganese. The missing part of the soil is replaced with fresh soil, which is pre-steamed in a microwave oven for 15 minutes. Then it is dried well and placed in a flower pot. It is also important to keep an eye on drainage holes that may be clogged.
Why do animals eat and dig the ground?
Usually young Alabai puppies and kittens, who are just mastering the new world and trying to taste everything, dig or eat earth, grass, coal. How to wean a puppy or a child if he climbs and rakes the soil? The animals are driven by the usual curiosity, so after several attempts to eat the earth, everything stops. A toy terrier puppy will understand that the earth is not tasty and will not try it again. However, this symptom is not curiosity, but the cause of the psychological state of the dog or cat. This happens due to the fact that the animal does not feel comfortable in the house or dislikes a new family member.
Perhaps the owner treats the cat or dog badly, punishes him, and he takes revenge in this way. Sometimes animals gnaw and tear off furniture, walls or shoes of their owner. Therefore, in order to understand why an animal licks clay and sand, digs or eats soil from a flower pot, it is necessary to examine its health, for example, for cat anemia. If the reasons lie in the personal enmity of the animal or in psychological discomfort, then the owner and his household should give the pet more affection. It is very important to communicate more with the pet, give it time, praise it, play with the animal.
Signs about a flower pot in a dream
When you dream of flowers in pots, this is one of the most favorable stories that predicts good luck and success in the future. Perhaps a large material reward awaits a person in front, or he will buy expensive property. However, this interpretation is true in the case when the flower did not fall and dreamed of blooming, green and fresh. If in a dream a person sees sluggish, dried flowers, then this may indicate trouble in the future. For example, there will be troubles at work, financial losses or family quarrels. When a flower falls off in a dream, it speaks of illness.
If in a dream a person dropped and broke an empty pot on the floor in the room, poured earth from the pot or broke it, then this may portend a family discord in the future, up to a divorce. Also, scattered earth at night speaks of illness, loss of loved ones or financial difficulties. It is worth considering that dream prediction may depend on who dreamed of the flower pot. For example, if a young girl dreamed of a beautiful flower, then a wedding awaits her. For older women, a blooming flower speaks of a possible pregnancy, and for older women, such a dream promises the presence of diseases of the reproductive system.
Potted soil decoration
When decorating the ground in a flower pot, then in most cases fine gravel is used, which is painted with multi-colored dyes.
Painted stones are washed with water and covered with a lump in a flower pot with a layer of up to 2 cm. If desired, patterns, drawings or ornaments are made from colored stones. The main thing is to show imagination and use stones of different sizes for mulching, ranging from 2-3 mm and ending with large specimens up to 1 cm.
Fine orange gravel or coarse colored sand, which can be bought at a flower shop, is also used to decorate the topsoil.
Usually soil is decorated for different sized cacti in landscaping. Group plantings of succulents of different varieties, which are decorated with multi-colored pebbles, look very impressive. You can also use sea, small pebbles, pebbles for decoration. For plants that need high humidity, sphagnum moss is used, which makes the surface of the soil a rich green color. If the moss has lost its useful properties, then its top layer turns brown. In this case, it is replaced with new moss. A lot of useful information in the article:.
Loosening the soil is one of the most important agricultural practices for caring for plants. There are both opponents and defenders of loosening. Everyone decides this issue in accordance with their views. Before you take one side or the other, you need to figure out how much loosening is necessary for the proper development of plants. We will tell in the article why to loosen the soil, how to do it correctly.
Why do you need to loosen the soil in the garden or in pots of flowers
Loosening is very beneficial, allowing you to improve the structure of the soil, increase the yield. Let's consider all the advantages of this method of care:
Terms and methods of loosening
Loosening is carried out in the following terms:
- before planting plants or sowing seeds;
- after planting plants or sowing seeds, usually after 1-1.5 weeks for the plants to take root;
- before and after watering, fertilizing or heavy rain, how the moisture is absorbed (usually the next day);
- loosening of row spacings is carried out as weeds and crust appear on the soil.
The loosening technique is directly related to the types of soil, the characteristics of the planted plants, as well as the stages of their development. ". There are the following methods.
It is carried out in preparation for planting plants with powerful and long roots, especially on heavy, infertile soil, often with the introduction of sand and fertilizers. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 35 cm to 50 cm. In this case, the top layer of soil is removed, the lower layers are dug up and loosened, and then the removed soil is returned to its place and is also thoroughly loosened.
Tip # 1.When deep loosening in spring, pay attention that the upper frozen layers do not fall down, at a depth they will not melt soon and will absorb the heat needed by young plants.
Loosening the subsoil
It is used to prepare the soil for planting. In this case, the top layer of the soil is thrown aside, the subsoil is loosened and sprinkled with the top layer located in the neighborhood, breaking all lumps and thus loosening the entire intended area.
Please note that a time gap between the pre-planting preparatory loosening of the soil and planting seeds or seedlings should not be allowed, because moisture will be lost from the upper layer.
Fine loosening of the surface crust
It is used to improve gas exchange and crust destruction. In the spring, deeper loosening is carried out - 7-10 cm, and in summer it is shallower (3-6) so that the earth does not dry out. Carefully loosen the aisles when growing plants from small seeds or with short roots, so as not to harm the plantings.
Heavy soils require frequent loosening, while light soils can be cultivated less frequently. It is believed that each well done on time is similar to two full-fledged irrigations, since it maintains soil moisture.
Tools and techniques for loosening the soil
There are a variety of devices for soil cultivation by loosening: manual, mechanical, electrical. Pay attention that they are comfortable, ergonomic, reliable, made of durable material such as special tool steel.
Tip # 2. It is advisable to purchase manual rippers with bright colored handles so that they are clearly visible on the soil if they are accidentally forgotten.
The following tools are used for loosening:
- Hoe;
- Rake;
- Flat cutter;
- Manual rippers;
- Garden forks;
- Baking shovel;
- Rotary hoes;
- Manual, electrical and mechanical cultivators;
- Harrows of various configurations.
Tools for work are selected based on the required depth of capture and row spacing. The soil should dry out from moisture and dew, so the best time to work is at the beginning of the day, when there is no extreme heat.
The tools are chosen depending on the depth of loosening and the width of the rows, the soil must dry out from moisture
The earth is well loosened, removing the crust, and leveled. With deeper loosening, any large lumps and blocks of earth should not remain on the surface, they are carefully broken up, and the soil is also leveled. It is easier to loosen heavy soil with a flat cutter.
Tip # 3.The soil should not stick to the tool when loosening, but wait until the moisture is better absorbed.
Features of loosening the soil when growing vegetables
Loosening is necessary for all types of plants. It is not always used only in those places that are covered with a layer of mulching material. The depth of loosening primarily depends on the depth of the roots and their placement.
Rules for loosening vegetable beds
The loosening depth (in cm) for vegetables is shown in the table:
Loosening the ground near berry bushes
The depth of loosening of the cultivated soil in the rows of shrubs is 4-8 cm, depending on the length and location of the roots, and 10-15 cm between the rows. It is carried out after rains, when weeds appear, several times per season.
Loosening of the near-stem circles of currants, gooseberries is carried out carefully and shallowly (3-4 cm), since the roots are close to the surface. Regular loosening forces them to sink into the underlying soil layers.
Tree trunks
Unmulched circles under trees need loosening, which is carried out up to 3-6 times per season, depth 7-15 cm (depending on the occurrence of roots). Heavy soil is loosened more often, and in dry weather after every rain to retain moisture.
The trunk circles can be loosened with a hoe
Loosening and mulching of grapes
- The first loosening by 10-14 cm is carried out after the shoots are tied, then the soil is mulched.
- In the future, over the summer, several loosening is carried out when compaction of the earth.
A garden pitchfork is used, piercing the layer of mulch, however, without turning the layer of soil. If roofing material or a film is used as mulch, the material is pushed aside while loosening. If the mulch layer is thick - up to 10-12 cm, loosening can be skipped.
Loosening flower beds and perennials
Perennials need to loosen the soil from early spring, when it just thaws and dries up a little. It is carried out until the plants in the row close together. Plants with long roots and perennials are loosened by 7-12 cm, with small roots and annuals - by 3-6 cm.
Tip # 4. By autumn, many perennials form a large number of surface roots, so as not to damage them, it is better not to loosen the soil, but to mulch it.
Caring for indoor plants in pots
For all potted plants, it is necessary to loosen the upper layers of the earth after watering, when the earth is shaken (usually the next day). Depth - no more than 1-1.5 cm. Use special hand tools or an ordinary table fork. Loosening is carried out carefully, mainly at the wall of the container, so as not to disturb the root system.
Loosening in the greenhouse is carried out every 1.5-2 weeks, starting a week after planting the seedlings, and also slightly loosened the ground, hilling the plants, if necessary, after each watering. In terms of the depth of loosening, they adhere to basically the same rules as when growing vegetables in the open field.
Answers to current questions
Question number 1. What is more correct - to loosen or mulch the plantings?
Both methods are equally applicable for complete plant care, and have their pros and cons.
Question number 2. Is it possible to fight the soil crust before germination by methods other than loosening and mulching?
If there is water on the site, you can water the beds by sprinkling with a fine spray before sprouting, preventing the crust from drying out. And after germination, carry out shallow loosening.
Question number 3. How to loosen the beds with carrots, it takes a very long time to sprout, and when loosening, the crops can be damaged?
For beds with tough-like seeds, there is a “blind” rule. When planting, more fast-growing seeds are mixed with such seeds - radish, lettuce, radish. They designate the rows. Loosening and weeding can be carried out, focusing on these "beacons".
Question number 4. Do I need to loosen the soil under the mulch?
It depends on the type of mulching material used and the condition of the soil. A crust does not form under the mulch, but if the soil is still compacted, then it should be loosened or pierced with a pitchfork.
Review of the gardener about loosening
On my small plot I grow various vegetables, herbs, there is a little bit of everything. I have always believed that loosening is a very important element of care, as is watering. Without it, the earth quickly compresses, becomes like a stone, and the plants wither, develop poorly. Therefore, I immediately took it as a rule - not to start the beds and loosen them after precipitation and watering, so that a crust does not form.
Here, too, its own tricks - you must definitely wait for the soil to dry out, but not dry out completely. Then start to loosen it. With regular maintenance, the moisture is well preserved and much less watering will be required. I love working with a tool such as a flat cutter, but this is, of course, everyone's personal choice.
Different vegetables require different attitudes. For example, beds with tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage at the very beginning of plant development can be loosened deeper, and then, as they grow, you will have to reduce the depth and move away from the stem so as not to damage the roots. And the roots, on the contrary, are first loosened by 3-5 cm, and then we increase the depth as they grow back. These simple rules help keep the soil in a loose state, and plants grow on it better, and the harvest pleases! ".
How to avoid mistakes when loosening?
Mistake # 1. Sometimes gardeners carry out pre-planting loosening of the soil, and the seeds are planted in the prepared beds after a few days, there is a loss of moisture.
Plant seeds or seedlings immediately after pre-planting loosening of the beds in order to preserve soil moisture.
Mistake # 2. Loosening after rain is carried out too early, when the earth is not yet dry enough.
Wait for the soil to dry sufficiently. If there is still wet soil on the tools, loosening is not carried out.