How to install a toilet with your own hands? How much space is required for installation? How to connect the toilet to the sewer without the help of a plumber? Read about this and other questions below.
Toilet installation: features and nuances
The toilet is a sanitary device, without which no living room can do.
This device is the main element of a toilet equipped with an automatic or semi-automatic flushing system. Installing a toilet is a costly procedure, but you can save a lot on carrying it out by doing the installation yourself.
Design options for modern models
Depending on the type of construction, the toilet bowls differ in the shape of the bowl, which can be:
- visor (a drain shifted from the tank forward and a flat or concave rear wall);
- disc-shaped (forward-displaced drain and rear wall, made in the form of a horizontal protrusion);
- funnel-shaped (the drain hole is located in the middle of the bowl).
In terms of functionality, the last option is the most effective, since unpleasant odors disappear quickly during use, and the surface of the toilet is practically not contaminated. But this type of construction also has a minus - due to the strong spraying of water, the level of convenience and practicality is minimized.
The type of flush also belongs to the design features of toilets. This parameter determines how effectively the sanitary fixtures will be cleaned during the drainage without physical intervention from the user. Washes are classified into:
- horizontal (cascading);
- circular straight lines;
- circular swirling.
Of the listed options, the straight line is the most suitable for cleaning morocco ceramics or stone.
Norms
In accordance with the ergonomic features of the toilet bowls, a set of rules is provided on the basis of which the installation is carried out. Quite often, the installation is carried out not in a separate room set aside for a bathroom, but in a shared bathroom with a shower and a sink. If you do not take into account the installation rules, you may encounter plumbing problems.
Distance between toilet bowl and sink
The toilet should be located at a distance of 20 centimeters from the sink and further. With a complex plumbing installation, it is necessary to take into account that the shower and bathtub are at the same distance. If paired sinks are mounted, there should be at least 40 centimeters between them. The bidet, on the other hand, is located next to the toilet - the optimal distance is up to 30 centimeters.
At what distance from the water supply to install
This parameter is determined depending on the type of toilet supply. With the standard installation method, it should be at a distance of 18 centimeters from the water supply. The specified parameter takes into account the distance from the pipe axis to the final floor level.
If the toilet is installed by installation (the way in which the cistern is built into the wall), the distance from the final floor level to the turbine axis should be 23 centimeters.
Minimum distance to wall
In accordance with the current norms of SNiP, depending on the position of the toilet, the distance to the walls is determined:
- from 53 to 76 centimeters - to the front, located in front;
- at least 40-45 centimeters - to the side.
These norms are relevant for a single room. It is recommended to install it near the wall, both in a separate room and in a shared bathroom.
The closer to the wall, the better?
Some users are of the opinion that the closer the toilet is to the wall, the more convenience and comfort it will provide. But professional plumbers do not recommend using this method, since it will complicate further access to communications. For convenience and practicality in servicing the toilet, it is recommended to mount it so that the cistern is 5-10 centimeters from the wall.
Distance from the riser: how far can you put
The distance of the toilet bowl from the riser is limited by the slope angle, which should be 2-3 centimeters per 1 meter of pipe. There are no rules governing the maximum range. But the greater the length of the sewer pipeline, the higher the likelihood that a gap will form during operation. For example, at a distance of 4 meters, the height of the toilet pedestal will have to be increased by 8 centimeters.
Before starting the installation work, the old toilet is dismantled. Depending on the method of fastening, screws are unscrewed or cement is broken. Some devices are additionally equipped with a wooden backing, which must also be removed. Only after preparing the place for the new toilet, you can proceed directly to the installation work.
What you need: tools and materials
Installation of a new toilet is carried out using:
- hammer drill or hammer drill;
- adjustable wrench;
- drills for metal 8 or 10 millimeters, depending on the type of attachment;
- hammer;
- drills on tiles (if they cover the toilet floor);
- wrenches;
- silicate sealant;
- red lead;
- resin strand.
Additionally you will need:
- marker or pencil;
- masking tape;
- a rubber cuff measuring 123x100 mm (if installed on a cast-iron bell);
- flexible water supply (if the old one is in a worn out condition);
- cuff (straight, flexible or eccentric type).
In specialized stores, kits for fixing the plumbing fixture to the base are sold, the purchase of which will help save time spent searching for each element separately.
Assembling a new toilet with your own hands
Installation is only recommended if you have experience in plumbing or construction. When installing the toilet yourself, you must take into account the following recommendations:
- an eccentric cuff (corrugation for a bathroom and a flexible hose) - a mandatory element for changing the floor height during installation;
- the problem of uneven coating can be eliminated by installing the plumbing fixture on a sealant (when using wooden or plastic wedges, it is poured under them);
- a rectangular elbow or flexible cuff will simplify the connection if the drain hole is in the floor and not in the wall.
When arranging a toilet in non-standard conditions (uneven floor, leaking pipes, cracks in the walls), you cannot do without the help of a specialist.
The sequence of the assembly of the structure
The new toilet is assembled and installed according to the following scheme:
- the water supply is blocked and the flexible liner is disconnected;
- an eccentric cuff is temporarily placed on the installation site of the toilet;
- using a marker or pencil, markings are made for fastening;
- dowels are inserted into the drilled holes;
- in accordance with the instructions, which must be attached with the purchase, the drain tank fittings are mounted (it should not come into contact with its walls);
- the gasket is fixed with a sealant so that it does not move during installation;
- a lid is installed on the tank, after which an eyeliner is attached to the toilet and a test flush is carried out.
Sewerage
To connect the toilet with the sewer, plastic pipes or fan pipes are used. First, you need to make sure the outlet of the toilet bowl and the bell have the same diameter. If not, an eccentric cuff is used. A corrugated pipe is the best way to connect a toilet bowl to a sewer. The release is processed with red lead and resin strand, after which a sealant is applied to the edges. Before it dries, a pipe is attached to it. After 20 minutes, the sealant will harden, and for a full connection, all that remains is to tighten the fasteners.
Water pipes
The procedure is carried out by connecting a flexible hose to the drain tank. After that, water is supplied through the shut-off valve, and the connection is inspected for leaks.
If it is absent, all connection areas are sealed with a sealant. With its help, the fastening of the base of the toilet bowl to the floor is additionally strengthened. If the plumbing fixture moves, a leak may form.
How much space do you need
There are no recommended minimum and maximum norms for equipping a bathroom. The optimal room size depends on the size of the toilet. Considering that it is almost impossible to change the dimensions of the bathroom, not every model of plumbing fixture is suitable for installation in a toilet.
Minimum dimensions
When choosing a toilet for a bathroom, the following recommendations must be taken into account:
- the distance from the plumbing fixture to the walls should not be less than 35 centimeters in each direction;
- any object located in the toilet should be at a distance of 30-35 centimeters from the toilet;
- in the presence of a shower or bath, additional free space for movement is necessarily provided.
Height of the toilet from the floor
The toilet should be positioned at such a height that your feet rest on the floor at a normal angle during use. A wooden backing is used for adjustment.
In accordance with the purpose and design features, the standard height of the toilet bowl from the floor is:
- with a one-piece cast shelf - 34 centimeters;
- without a cast shelf - 36 centimeters;
- for children - 21-29 centimeters.
Based on the specified parameters, a suitable model is selected and a plan-scheme is drawn up.
Average sizes of models
Medium-sized models are the most in demand. The most famous manufacturers of toilets are: CERSANIT, Jika, IFO, SANITA LUXE, Santek. They produce both standard plumbing fixtures and devices with additional functions (for example, antivplex).
Compact
Compact is one of the most popular models of toilet bowls, which supplanted the standard Soviet counterparts. The main feature is the presence of a special shelf on the back of the rim, where the drain tank is installed.
The toilet is a one-piece construction that does not require separate installation and additional fixings in the wall. Some models are equipped with a monolithic shelf, to which a separate installation of the cistern is not provided. Dimensions of the compact models: 60.5 x 34 x 37 (H × L × W).
Standard
Standard is the most affordable modification of toilets. It involves a separate fastening of the plumbing fixture and the cistern. In this case, the installation of fasteners into the wall is additionally carried out. The dimensions of the standard models are: 46 x 36 x 35 (H × L × W).
Non-standard models
Non-standard toilet bowls include hanging devices, the dimensions of which vary within 48.5x36.5 cm. They can be installed at any height. Usually, built-in cisterns in such toilets are either absent, or mounted in the wall.
How to connect to the sewer
The toilet is equipped with a standard outlet. Most often, problems arise due to a mismatch with the diameter of the nozzle. Therefore, installation work is carried out using adapters, collars and fittings.
Connection diagram
The connection type is classified by design and can be:
- vertical;
- horizontal;
- oblique.
Depending on the option chosen, the pipe is attached to the toilet perpendicularly, parallel or at an angle.
With direct release instead of oblique
Vertical (direct) release is typical for European or American-made toilets, therefore, models with a similar design are rare in the domestic market. Plumbing fixtures with this type of release are used to equip bathrooms in new buildings. The sewer line is located directly under the toilet, thereby maximizing space savings.
Using an adapter
The adapter is used if the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe have different diameters. Since it is impossible to connect them directly, an adapter is used, presented in the form of a flexible piece, which is attached to the edges of the elements with a sealant. This method is relevant for private or old houses that are not equipped with a standard plumbing.
With oblique release
Oblique release is less common among toilets.
Its advantage is to minimize the risk of pipeline clogging.
Oblique release involves the use of additional elbows that can be guided and attached to the pipeline at a desired angle.
Connection types
Connecting the toilet to the sewer can be direct or using fittings, if the use of pipes is difficult. Fastening is done using:
- corrugated cuffs;
- eccentric elements;
- plastic corners and bends;
- fan pipes.
The connection type is selected depending on the conditions.
Fan pipe or plastic pipe
The waste pipe is used to neutralize the risk of rupture of the hydraulic seal. It is installed if the riser has weak throughput functions.
The additional valve opens only at the moment of draining, due to which the pipes are not constantly used. As a result, the odor trap disappears and an unpleasant odor does not accumulate in the toilet.
Eccentric
Eccentric elements have bends with different diameters and directions. These parts are not flexible, but they are used to connect nozzles, the direction of which is not the same.
To select an eccentric, measurements are first carried out, after which a suitable model is bought. The maximum length of the device is 10-12 centimeters, so it is not suitable for connecting pipes at a great distance.
Corrugation
The corrugation, like the eccentric, is used if the direction of the nozzles does not match. It is presented in the form of a flexible plastic element that can be bent at any angle. The main disadvantage of the corrugation is its limited length (10-15 cm), due to which it is impossible to mount it with a small distance between the outlet and the sewer pipe.
How to connect to the water supply
The connection of the toilet bowl to the water supply system is classified according to the type of water connection and the design of the supply.
Flexible and rigid water connection
Flexible hose is used when connecting tanks installed on the toilet. Due to this, it is possible to provide a collection of water from almost any angle. Rigid liner is used when arranging overhead drain tanks.
Bottom and side water connection
The lower piping ensures quiet operation of the water supply system. Since the pipe runs from the bottom of the tank, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection due to the increased load. Side piping is simpler and more reliable, but it does not eliminate noise during water intake. Lengthening the inlet hose will reduce this problem.
Mounting
The installation of a new toilet is done after:
- preparation of the necessary tools and materials;
- dismantling the old plumbing fixture;
- choice of model and type of attachment.
For this, a plan of proposed actions on the territory of the bathroom is drawn up in advance.
Floor mounting options
The toilet is fixed to the floor using:
- pedestal (tile) installed on 2-4 dowels;
- anchors inserted into the floor during screed and pouring;
- wooden backing;
- special corners in the floor;
- glue.
In the latter case, an epoxy is required with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters.
Wall mounting options
Fixing to the wall is made only if the surface is load-bearing. For this, a special metal frame is used. Anchors are preliminarily inserted into the wall, which are filled with cement. After they have hardened, you can hang the cistern.
Features of installation work
Installation work is carried out only after the preparation of the necessary equipment, but involves several stages.
How to connect with plastic pipe
When connecting a toilet bowl to a plastic pipe, it is recommended to use a corrugated sleeve. It will reduce the stress on the structural elements as it can be bent at any angle. In the absence of corrugation, the use of plastic elbows of a suitable type is allowed. Using a sealant will prevent leaks.
Into the old drain in the apartment
The old drain is pre-cleaned, after which special pipes are attached to it. Direct connection is possible only if the pipe diameter matches the toilet outlet. But even in this case, it is difficult to ensure tightness without a fixed plastic outlet.
Installation technology of models "compact"
The compact models are quicker to install as they do not require a separate wall-mounted waste tank. It is initially built into the toilet or screwed on with the fasteners that come with the kit. After that, the structure is installed on the floor, connected to the sewage system, water supply and started.
How to properly install a toilet with a hidden cistern
This type of toilet is equipped with a non-standard flat cistern designed specifically for wall mounting. For this, a niche with a depth of 10 centimeters or more is prepared in advance.
A drain tank is placed in it and fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws. A water supply hose and a drain pipe are connected to it. Then a box-shaped extension is installed for the snap-on button, which can be pressed down to flush. The structure is walled up and connected to the toilet bowl using a sealant.
How to put a toilet with a high cistern
Before installing the cistern, the toilet is mounted separately, after which markings are made on the wall. The container is placed at a height at which the drain hose will not bend too much. The tank is hung on dowels fixed in the wall with a puncher. A special adapter sleeve is used to install the hose. The system is connected to the water supply and starts up.
How to connect a wall-hung toilet
A wall-hung toilet is wall-mounted and does not require additional floor fixtures. Models of this type are most often installed with an installation that involves hiding the cistern and accessories. Initially, markings are made on the wall, after which the sewerage and water supply are supplied.
The bowl is fixed at a height of 40-50 centimeters from the floor. The toilet is hung on strong wall plugs that can withstand increased loads. After that, communications are connected, and the system starts up. Usually, the installation of a wall-hung toilet involves the additional installation of a false wall, since it is almost impossible to hide all communications in another way.
Without corrugation
A fan pipe is the best substitute for corrugation when connecting a toilet bowl to a sewer. It is used if the pipes are not brought close to the system. Pre-measurements are taken, after which a fan pipe with suitable dimensions and diameter is purchased. It is recommended that you buy devices that are a few millimeters larger than what you need to provide stock.
Installation of a toilet bowl "monoblock"
Monoblock - a toilet, integrated into a one-piece structure with a cistern. The advantage of such models lies in the simple installation method and ease of maintenance. Monoblock toilets are sold with fixings. Before installation, the floor is poured with cement, since the device is heavy. Marking is made on the hardened concrete, after which holes are drilled. Then the drain fittings are mounted and the drain button is fixed. The system is connected to the sewer and starts up. If there is no leak, the final fastening is performed.
Installing any toilet is a complex procedure that requires careful measurements and sequence of actions. Unreliable fastenings and mistakes in connecting the drain, sewerage and water supply will lead to negative consequences, because of which the work will have to be done again. To avoid problems, you should carefully study all the nuances in advance or seek help from professional plumbers.
Useful video
The toilet has long become an integral feature of a well-appointed apartment or house. Gone are the "latrines". Now in construction supermarkets and online stores, a huge range of plumbing devices is offered for purchase: traditional compact toilets, devices with hidden cisterns, hanging, corner and even children's toilets. In principle, the installation of any equipment can be done by hand.
Do I need to install the toilet myself?
Of course, you can call a specialist to install the toilet from any service organization you like, be it a management company or an office offering installation services based on the principles of autosoring. However (at least for the most common toilet bowls) the installation of such equipment does not present any particular problems and is quite accessible after studying a short step-by-step instruction. In addition, an understanding of all the intricacies of the installation of toilets will help you to monitor the quality of the work of the involved specialists, and will allow you to detect hidden defects and shortcomings in the services provided.
Toilet types
In large supermarkets, showcases with toilets sometimes occupy several tens of running meters. However, with all the variety of assortment, almost all toilet bowls are no different from each other. A modern toilet consists of several main parts.
- Actually bowls... It can be of various shapes (with or without a shelf), with different water flushing technology (straight or circular), with a different design for its attachment to the supporting bases (floor, hanging or corner), with various additional features (for example, with a built-in bidet and even heated).
- Sewage from the toilet, along with water from the cistern, goes into sewer pipe, which can also connect the toilet bowl and the sewer line with various configurations of pipes and adapters.
- Water for flushing sewage accumulates in cistern... This device can also have various installation options (attached directly to the toilet bowl or hidden behind decorative partitions).
Plumbing fixtures are usually supplied with installation and operating instructions. But, nevertheless, some important nuances of installing such equipment are not described in the documents.
If you are not installing plumbing equipment in a new building, then the first stage of your work will be to dismantle the old equipment.
We remove the old toilet on our own
Dismantling work looks easier than installing equipment, but some rules must be followed when carrying out them.
Step 1... Carefully clean the toilet and surrounding area with disinfectants. You can use the cheapest, for example, chlorine ("Whiteness"). Wear protective gloves and possibly safety goggles before starting work. Prepare a bowl and rags to remove excess water.
Step 2... We shut off the water in the tank. On single-lever shut-off valves, when closing the pipeline, the lever must be turned perpendicular to the pipe. Empty the remaining water from the toilet cistern.
Step 3... Disconnect the water inlet hose. Depending on the model of your equipment, the hose may come up to the tank from the bottom, from the side, or from the top. Use an adjustable wrench or wrench.
Step 4... We unscrew the screws with which the toilet is fixed to the floor. In older homes, the bolts can become very sticky, so they have to be cut or even smashed into the toilet bowl. You may have to break out the toilet and from the attachment to the cast iron sewer pipe. Have patience and pliers. If you intend to leave old tiles on the floor, be very careful - sharp and heavy pieces of the toilet bowl and excessive force when unscrewing the screws can damage the ceramic.
Step 5... If your old toilet is attached to a plastic sewer pipe, it will be very easy to dismantle it. Pull the toilet towards you and remove the toilet outlet from the sewer contact pipe.
You now have access to the installation site of the toilet. Let's skip the moment of installing the plastic sewage system (noting that the location of the inlet of the sewer pipe under the toilet bowl must correspond to the toilet bowl outlet pipe), we will proceed immediately to the installation of a new plumbing fixture.
How to mount a toilet compact with your own hands
To install a standard compact toilet bowl, consisting of a bowl and a cistern, we carry out the operations in the following sequence.
Step 1... We check the condition of the inlet pipe of the sewer pipe. We clean it if necessary. To prevent the spread of odors, cover the neck with a rag or plastic wrap.
Step 2... We place the toilet on the floor. If a certain distance remains from the outlet pipe of the toilet bowl to the sewer neck, then we measure it and buy a corrugated tube of a suitable size.
Step 3... The set with the toilet can be equipped with a “heel” - a soft lining under the base. If it is not there, then you can make the lining yourself, for example, from an unnecessary piece of thin linoleum, cutting it off along the contour of the base.
Step 4... We carefully place the compact toilet in the place of its future location, check the symmetry of the location relative to the walls, the distance to the pieces of furniture, to the outlet neck of the sewer pipeline.
Step 5... We mark on the floor the location of the contour of the base of the compact toilet bowl and the location of future holes in the floor for fastening screws.
Step 6... We move the toilet-compact to the side and start drilling holes.
- If you have tiles are already laid on the floor, then its top layer is drilled with a specialized drill without perforation. Further, the hole is deepened with a percussion drill.
- If the toilet is installed on a wooden surface- holes are formed with a conventional wood drill.
- If you have in your toilet linoleum, then the hole can be cut with a sharp knife until it is firmly closed.
Step 7... We install dowels into the drilled holes.
Step 8... We place the base of the toilet on the seat and tighten the screws into the dowels. The base of the toilet can be sealed around the perimeter to prevent moisture penetration.
Step 9... We remove the plug made of a rag or polyethylene from the neck of the sewer pipeline and connect the toilet bowl outlet and the sewer together. The junction of the corrugated hose and the sewer pipe is also treated with a sealant.
We connect the cistern to the compact toilet
There are models of compact toilets in which the cistern is a separate element. In order to mount the tank, you must perform the following operations.
Step 1. We select the bolts for fastening the drain tank. Perhaps the bolts supplied with the equipment are not protected from corrosion, therefore it is better to use bolts with an anti-corrosion coating (galvanized) or made of stainless steel. Also, there must be at least two sealing washers per bolt. We twist the whole structure. The sealing washers will also protect the ceramic from the bolt damage.
Step 2... We connect a flexible underwater hose. First, the fixing nuts are nailed and tightened by hand, and then with a wrench or adjustable wrench. Between the tank nozzle and the hose and between the hose and the water outlet, insert silicone gaskets or use fum tape.
Important! After finishing the installation of the toilet and cistern, wait about six hours for the sealant on the floor to completely solidify.
Installing a toilet with a hidden cistern
The following types of hidden toilet cisterns are most common on the market: wall-mounted or side-mounted. Depending on the model, we select the installation instructions.
We install a hidden type cistern for a side-mounted toilet
- Install the toilet on the floor as described above.
- In the prepared niche we mount the cistern. It is usually bolted down just like in a regular toilet bowl.
- Installing the frame for the decorative wall. Usually this is a metal profile on which drywall sheets are fixed. From above, the plasterboard is sheathed with tiles.
When installing drywall sheets, we provide an opening for the outlet of the flush control system. When installing a barrel with a fixed button, carefully calculate the distance from the body of the tank to the surface of the future decorative wall. Typically, these dimensions are indicated in the instruction drawing. In addition, it is necessary to provide for the placement of an inspection hole in the decorative wall for servicing the hidden cistern. - We bring the control panel to the surface of the wall, we carry out the finishing of the decorative wall.
Installing a hanging toilet with a hidden goby
The installation of such a structure gives you an advantageous chance to redevelop the premises of the bathroom, to use its area more rationally. The installation of a suspended toilet bowl with a hidden cistern is carried out with the creation of an additional wall that will hide all engineering communications. We act in the following sequence.
Step 1... We create a project for the future bathroom. The concealed cistern has a certain thickness, which must be taken into account when designing a new wall. It can have a control system (button), which is either directly attached to the tank body, or carried out at a certain distance.
In addition, when designing the supporting structures of the future wall, it is also necessary to provide for the creation of a load-bearing frame that will support the hanging toilet. Here you cannot do with a thin aluminum profile, which is used for installing plasterboard partitions. The load-bearing structure is welded from a metal corner. But usually a metal structure for hanging the toilet is already included with the equipment. This finished metal structure is called an installation. Fonts are attached to it, on which the toilet will subsequently be mounted.
Step 2... After drawing up the project, we begin welding work on the formation of the support frame and erect the frame from the profile under the plasterboard wall, or install the finished frame. The frame must have voids for the installation of sewer pipes.
Step 3... We lay the sewer pipes, bringing the inlet to the level of the outlet pipe of the hanging toilet. Do not forget that the sewer pipes must have a certain slope during installation.
Step 4... We place a hidden tank in the space behind the future wall. We connect it to the toilet drain pipe. If the drain control button is located directly on the tank, make sure that its outer vertical surface extends beyond the level of the future decorative facing of the plasterboard wall. We connect the supply hose to the drain tank. Then we connect the "rough" hanging toilet and the hidden cistern, putting on and fixing the toilet on the pins and connecting the pipelines for water delivery and drainage. Do not forget to check the performance of the entire structure, the strength of its attachment before sewing the frame with plasterboard.
Step 5... We remove the hanging toilet from the pins. We mount plasterboard sheets. Usually they are simply screwed onto the profile with countersunk screws. We form a hole for the tank drain control button. We make holes for the fonts for fixing the toilet bowl, for the pipe for supplying water and draining sewage into the sewer. The gaps between the sheets of drywall are putty. To facilitate the formation of holes, a special template is included in the delivery set of the wall-hung toilet, on which all the main contours are indicated.
Step 6.At the final stage of work, a topcoat is laid on the walls, for example, tiles.
Prices for a toilet with a hidden cistern
toilet with concealed cistern concealed cistern
Installation of a toilet bowl on a pedestal
As stated above, toilets have different outlet pipe configurations. When the toilet bowl is discharged horizontally or obliquely, the sewer intake pipe is mounted on the same level with the base of the toilet bowl, its inlet pipe is directed horizontally or sloped upwards.
However, there are also models of toilets with direct release. In them, the exhaust pipe is directed vertically downward. Due to this configuration, the drainage pipe must be lower than the base of the toilet. This design of sewer networks is not available in all houses. But what if you like this toilet model more than others?
There is a way out - installing the toilet on a pedestal (this elevation can also be called a podium). It is necessary to perform a number of works.
- Lay the sewer downpipe. Depending on what its slope will be before entering the collector or another pipe, the height of the pedestal is calculated and, accordingly, the level of the base of the toilet bowl.
- After receiving the required dimensions, we proceed to the construction of the pedestal. It must be installed on a solid, preferably concrete base. However, the downpipe of a toilet bowl of this design can be located in the gap between the finishing and rough wooden floor. When placing a toilet bowl with a direct outlet on a wooden base, the sewer network must be laid before the final floor is laid.
- On a concrete base, the pedestal can be built from bricks. Form a rectangle with an opening for the inlet of the waste drain pipe. Bricks can be laid out directly in a row, to each other, filling the entire inner space of the pedestal, leaving a niche for the sewer pipeline.
- From above, the brick pedestal is plastered and closed with a topcoat, for example, tiles.
- Next, we do it with a direct release as described in the section on installing a conventional floor-standing toilet.
Installing a corner toilet
There are models of toilets that are installed in a corner. It differs from the classic floor-standing or wall-mounted only in that its cistern has a back wall in the form of a triangle. It is due to this configuration that the structure can be installed in a corner.
The technology for installing a corner toilet is, in principle, no different from the installation of a "straight" toilet of the corresponding design. The only thing that can cause some difficulty when installing a corner toilet is the summing up of the receiving sewer pipe. It must be installed in such a way as to ensure the drainage of waste water, possibly with a turn in the pipeline.
In addition, the design of the concealed cisterns with a straight back wall also allows them to be installed in a corner. To do this, in the corner of the room, a wall is mounted diagonally to the corner, behind which a hidden suspended tank is installed. Such a structure can be located both at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls, forming an isosceles triangle, or at other angles, forming the toilet space according to your wishes.
To learn more about the technologies for self-installation of the toilet, watch the training video.
Video - DIY toilet installation
The majority of compatriots, in particular skilled folk craftsmen, often independently undertake the repair of the house and its various systems. However, due to certain circumstances, they treat the installation of new plumbing with extreme caution and even disbelief in their own strengths. And although often for the installation of a toilet, for example, you have to pay the mercenaries an amount equivalent to the cost of the toilet itself, this fact still does not stop them. But in vain, because installing a toilet with your own hands is a very simple task!
Preparing for installation
Of course, it doesn't hurt you to get acquainted with a number of specific nuances associated with the installation procedure, but they are so accessible that you can figure them out without any problems. In fact, it turns out that the installation, direct installation and connection to the general sewerage system of all types of bathrooms practically do not differ from each other. The only difference can be identified in the connection of some additional functions, coupled with the installation of an automated system.
Different systems are made up of similar elements
Of course, any toilet comes with step-by-step instructions for assembling it. During the installation of the drain and filling system, there should be no difficulties. However, close attention must be paid, since its job is to adjust the pressure and volume of water filling the tank.
Check the complete set of the cistern
Application deserves special attention. This solution is very easy to use. We will tell you about the installation in detail in a separate review.
Installing the toilet in steps
Consider the main pitfalls in the procedure for installing a brand new toilet bowl. We will talk specifically about new settlers, that is, our instructions do not imply dismantling the old bathroom. Therefore, be careful.
So, for self-installation of a newly purchased toilet bowl, you need to perform the following steps:
It's all! Self-assembly of the bathroom has come to an end. However, you should not immediately use it for its intended purpose: it is necessary to allow the silicone to harden. He does this for 6 hours. By the way, do not feel sorry for the sealant! There is never too much of it in the editing business. But be sure to make sure that the silicone does not end up inside the pipe.
Note: For self-installation of a bathroom and its cistern, you do not need professional tools. It is enough to stock up on a set of wrenches and adjustable wrenches.
Bathroom with vertical outlet
This model is especially popular in Europe. Such a toilet is a device in which the siphon located in the bowl and the outlet pipe are directed downward during installation. This versatile design allows you to install the bathroom at any angle to the wall.
For installation, you need to do just a few steps:
- Make floor markings and install a conventional screw flange with a locking device;
- Install the sewer pipe in the center of the flange;
- Mount the toilet bowl on the flange, securely fix the outlet pipe.
Bathroom with horizontal outlet
Or, in other words, with a direct release "into the wall". The most common in Russia. The release of such a toilet is invariably directed backwards. The outlet in this design is connected to the sewer pipe by means of a specific collar.
Pay attention in the installation procedure to fixing the bathroom to the floor. The legs of this type of toilet bowl, as a rule, are equipped with specific holes designed to fix the plumbing to the floor surface.
Advice: You should start connecting a bathroom with a direct outlet during its installation. Dowels and standard screws are used as fasteners. Secure the structure with all care, as excessively strong and sharp screw "pulling" is quite capable of damaging the integrity of the bathroom.
Slanting toilet
Consider the main points of installation:
Specificity of connection without corrugation
We have already examined the connection of the bathroom to the general sewage system using corrugated pipes in the step-by-step instructions. Is it possible to connect a toilet bowl without the use of corrugations, and will this process not turn out to be more complicated? Such a connection, of course, is possible, while it is unlikely to cause you any questions.
If you are finally convinced of the uselessness of corrugations, then take a closer look at the following specific nuances in the procedure for such a connection:
Mandatory use of a funnel pipe. Given the angle of the toilet bowl, the adapter can be connected using different methods:
bathroom with oblique outlet- installation is carried out on the floor: in modern apartments you will no longer see such a connection, but once it was relevant;
bathroom with vertical outlet- installation is carried out strictly at right angles to the wall;
bathroom with horizontal outlet- the angle of installation is equivalent to 40º, installation is carried out into the wall.- If the release of the bathroom is not suitable for the release of the sewerage system, it is necessary: either to purchase a different model of the product, or still use flexible pipes-adapters.
Thus, installing the toilet with your own hands should not cause you serious problems. You can easily implement it, guided by certain rules, following the steps of the step-by-step instructions and taking into account the specifics of the plumbing installation. It will cost you significantly less than calling the professionals at home.
In the next article we will explain.
The final chord of the bathroom renovation is the installation of plumbing fixtures. If desired, this part of the work is quite realistic to do on your own, without resorting to plumbers. Installing a modern toilet is much easier than a Soviet-style product.
From this material, you will learn how to properly install a hinged (suspended) or floor-standing toilet at home with your own hands, you can study detailed instructions and a training video on installation.
Before starting work, you need to prepare tools and materials. What do you need for installation, besides a new toilet? You will need:
- hammer drill or hammer drill;
- drill (the diameter of the drill is selected depending on the diameter of the fasteners);
- if the installation is made on a tile - a drill on the tile;
- hammer;
- chisel;
- screwdrivers;
- set of wrenches;
- adjustable wrench;
- putty knife;
- retractable knife;
- marker or pencil;
- roulette.
It is also highly advisable to have goggles to keep dust out of your eyes.
Additionally you will need:
- silicone sealant with a gun or in a special tube;
- FUM tape or sanitary flax;
- metallized tape;
- stuffing box;
- corrugation;
- tap;
- flexible hose for connecting the tank to the water supply;
- polyethylene film;
bucket and rag;- repair mortar;
- dowels, if they are not included in the scope of delivery of the toilet.
Some installation methods involve the mandatory use of cement mortar.
Suspension
Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended (hinged) toilet bowl is performed as part of a major overhaul, before the start of finishing work. The set of tools for installing the device must include a level.
When choosing an installation site, it is important to take into account that the shorter the pipe connecting the toilet bowl to the sewer, the better it will be easier to clean in case of a blockage. The toilet is attached only to the main wall, otherwise it simply will not withstand the load.
The first and most crucial stage of any installation is marking. The installation location of the toilet must be coordinated with the toilet outlet so as to obtain the optimal pipe slope.
Most likely, in the process of marking, the frame (installation) will have to be moved several times. Experts advise install the frame so that the cistern is located about one meter from the floor.
Sewerage and and water supply to the installation site of the toilet are supplied before the installation of the frame. Elementary logic dictates that after fixing the frame, any work becomes almost impossible. Before installing the frame, leveling is performed using a level on all planes.
For precise adjustment of the position of the frame, adjustable legs are provided in its design. The frame is fixed to the floor with anchor bolts to fix the structure to the wall may additionally require brackets.
When the frame is in place, the toilet bowl is attached. The recommended bowl height is about 40 cm from the floor however, if such an arrangement is inconvenient for you and your family, the height can be found empirically.
After that, the walls are finished and the niche is "closed". When camouflaging a niche it is important to ensure the ability to access the tank in case of an emergency. The bowl is installed last.
You can watch the video:
Sometimes you need to install the toilet yourself. Not everyone knows how to do it correctly and what to look for. Find out the advice of the professionals.
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Introduction
"How to install a toilet with your own hands?" - this is the question every owner of a new apartment or house asks. - an integral part of any apartment or house. He, like a bathroom, a sink, requires a connection to the water supply, to the sewage system, city or private, needs complete isolation of the internal water. For its full operation, it is required to adjust the flush handles, a constant set of the tank, check the entire structure for cracks and much more. At first glance, it seems like backbreaking work, but it will still be better if you do it yourself. So, in the event of a breakdown, you will quickly find your bearings and eliminate the leak. If the work is done by the masters, you will have problems.
Installing the drain mechanism
Before buying a toilet
Before buying, you need to check the dimensions of the product and correlate them with the dimensions of the toilet. It is worth considering all the nuances of the flooring, making sure of the quality and reliability of the device. If you have any prejudice about toilets, get it out of your head, it's just a simple piece of stone. For now.
Step 1. Installing the drainage mechanism
The toilet in its original form is a bowl and inside which there is a shut-off pipe and other details. To complete the complete installation of toilets with your own hands, you need to put them together so that everything is sealed. This is done by tightening many nuts, screws, fasteners.
First you need to insert the drain mechanism - it is supplied already assembled - into the single large hole in the bottom of the tank, then secure it with a nut or two, depending on the design of the tank. The nut is tightened either by hand and with your own tools, or by a special wrench included in the set. Be careful not to damage the pipe, otherwise you will have permanent problems with it later. For proper insulation, rubber gaskets are installed at any connection. In this case, place it on the inside of the tank, but do not twist anything or it will break.
Bowl and cistern connection
Step 2. Connecting the bowl and toilet cistern
To attach the cistern to the toilet bowl, you first need to put a rubber seal on the flush mechanism. This is for security and tighter isolation. Now carefully place the tank on the bowl, focusing on the shape features and the holes for the nuts. Make sure both parts are perfectly aligned so that there are no even small holes or other errors. Do-it-yourself toilet installation will be quick and easy if you carefully check each step.
Now we will fix the tank on the bottom of the toilet, to do this, count the number of holes for the nuts and take metal washers, studs, tapered gaskets and nuts in exactly this amount. This will avoid missing holes and secure the device as much as possible. For each of them, you must first connect the stud with the washer, then put on a tapered rubber gasket on top and install this structure on the hole. Insert nut carefully and screw in. Remember, you cannot tighten the nuts completely at once, first fill in all the holes and twist evenly, that is, first we turn each screw to half, then tighter and to the end. It is optimal to screw everything in three approaches, you should not try to save time and rush.
Standalone toilet
Types of tanks
How to install a toilet with your own hands if you have a non-standard type of cistern? Let's figure it out. There are three types of tanks:
- Standard bowl-mounted;
- Autonomous, located above the bowl, suspended from the wall;
- Built-in, found in wall-hung toilets;
The difference is the location of the tank, the way of draining, fastening. In fact, the technologies are quite similar, but the editing is still slightly different.
Installation of a self-contained tank
The self-contained tank is attached to the wall using bolts, nuts, or any other method suggested by the manufacturer. The tank is attached to the toilet with a drain pipe. This type of toilet is not very convenient, it is used in public places, but if you use it, then the installation procedure is as follows: first, we attach the drain pipe to the toilet, without attaching it to the tank. We mark the lower attachment point. We tighten the nut or bolts at the pipe-to-bowl connection. Then calculate the height of the tank mounting and mark it with a marker. Use a level to set the ideal position of the pipe and fix it to the wall after checking the height. We connect the tank and the pipe in the same way as with the bowl, then we fasten both elements to the wall using brackets and dowels. Installation is complete. After fully installing the toilet, check the performance of your system, inspect it for leaks.
Built-in toilet
Installation of a tank built into the wall
The next type of toilet is, which, unlike the previous one, has a completely different fastening technology. Here, the main element is a tank, not a bowl, it is closed with wall panels, tiles, drywall - by any available method. The advantages of such a model are that it takes up little space and looks out of the box, there are design ideas that turn the toilet bowl into something completely unpredictable. If you want to diversify the style of the apartment, this option suits you. The disadvantages of this type are unreliability (depending on quality) and high cost. Usually, the installation technology is described in the instructions, since there are different installation options. However, it does not talk about how to install a built-in toilet with your own hands so that it works with your sewage and water supply system. Usually, the tank is suspended from the frame, fastened with several bolts and nuts through the gasket, carefully checked for strength and reliability, on which the unique installation ends. Adjust the drain to save water and go to the lower paragraphs, which will describe in detail how to attach the unit to the sewer, water pipe.
How to install a hanging toilet with your own hands
Sewer connection
Step 3. Attaching the float to the assembled part
It was possible to connect the toilet with the float earlier, but then it would interfere with tightening the nuts. Correct assembly is carried out as follows: put a rubber seal on the thread of your float, also for safety, now we insert it into the tank with the side where the thread is at the float. You need to connect the tank and the float from the inside, then, as in the previous cases, we slightly fasten it with a suitable nut.
We have already decided half of the question of how to install a toilet bowl with our own hands - the device is fully assembled and ready to go. Now you need to correctly connect it to your sewerage and plumbing system, install it in a specific place.
Stage 4. Connection to sewerage
Before connecting the toilet to the sewer system, you need to precisely choose a place for it, punch a hole for the pipe. If you have done so, proceed with the connection. For this, it is better to use it, it combines strength, durability and, importantly, flexibility. With this material, you can move the toilet bowl within its length, which will be very useful for further work. The installation of the corrugated bend is carried out as follows: the side with the feather pad is inserted into the sewer pipe, and the other into the outlet of the toilet bowl. Tighten these holes as tight as possible, they will fasten by themselves.
Installation process
Stage 5. Installation of the toilet on the surface
The next stage is the installation, attaching the toilet bowl with your own hands to the right place. First, determine the position in which it will be comfortable for you to sit, the toilet will not stagger and creak, the corrugated pipe will hang freely, not stretch or shrink. Now let's turn our attention to the bottom of the toilet - here you can see several holes. Draw their outline with a marker or other writing material and move the toilet, but be careful not to damage the incoming pipe.
It is optimal to first move it a little to one side in order to drill holes from one part, then do the same with the other. It is more convenient and correct to do this with a puncher, in no case drill holes through the toilet itself, cracks, chips, breaks are possible. Better to make time for quality work.
Step 6. Tighten the nuts
Insert the plastic plugs supplied with the toilet into the holes made. Now slide the toilet back to the desired position and screw it in with the long screws that are usually provided. As with everything else, remember to install metal washers, taper washers, and studs. Try to shake the device in place, if it walks, twist it harder, otherwise when you sit on it, it will tremble and eventually break. Ultimately, the toilet will stand firmly on the surface, no movement will create a squeak. This completes the installation of the toilet bowl with your own hands, it remains to attach the iron pipe connecting the unit to the plumbing system. This process is a little more complicated than the previous ones, but it is quite feasible.
Reinforced-plastic pipes
Step 7. Connecting the plumbing system - options
When connecting the water supply to the toilet, you can use two types of pipes - a flexible hose, the negative sides of which are unreliability, creak, leaks, fragility. It will constantly get in the way, bend and wrinkle. Positive points - ease of connection, the ability to install on toilets of a non-standard format.
The second method is a metal-plastic pipe, reliable, strong, but not bending at all. Low-quality models, which are the most on the modern market, will leak and rust. On the other hand, if you buy an expensive and high-quality pipe, it will serve a really long service and will not cause any problems in the future, which cannot be said about even the best hoses. We recommend using this method.
Stage 8. Connecting the water supply system. The first way
Correctly installing the toilet with your own hands means spending your personal time, but if you still decide to quickly finish with this work, use a flexible hose. It is best to buy a corrugated hose, its benefits have been described. For proper attachment, attach one end of the hose through the gasket to the toilet bowl, the other to the plumbing system. After that, tighten the ends, just do not apply excessive force - the gasket may break and then hose leaks will begin from the very first use. If during operation you damage the hose, you will have to replace it, since its repair will cost you a lot of time, despite the fact that a positive result is not guaranteed.
Installing the toilet
Stage 8. Connecting the water supply system. Second way
Let's take a closer look at the second method - connecting a metal-plastic pipe. It is installed in the same way as a flexible hose, only you need to twist the ends even more carefully - the metal will easily cut the gasket, so you need to find the middle between the under-twist and the twist. The metal pipe will not bend and interfere, so it is ideal for this case. After installing it, the work with the toilet will be finally completed. All that remains is to attach the lid to the toilet bowl, seal up the docking point of the unit with the floor, and that's it. Do not forget to add a faucet to your pipe that can quickly shut off the water supply - this will prevent serious water leaks.
Outcome
After reading this material, your question about how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands will be settled. The main rules when installing a toilet are accuracy, patience, attentiveness. Follow these rules and you will succeed. Remember that for the first time after the final installation, various problems may arise, for example, leaks. Do not worry, sometimes after twisting the pipes may come off, leak. If you are faced with this problem - just tighten the desired nut.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation video:
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