In fact, the ceiling is a partition that separates the floors. In apartment buildings, it is mainly made from concrete slabs (with metal reinforcement inside). Its device is extremely simple - the base and reinforcing material that increases the resistance and permissible possible static load.

In a private house, the ceilings are more often made by wooden. Thus, they do not increase the mass of the whole design (this will allow slightly to save on the foundation), and also the cost of construction. Of course, concrete slabs can be paved, but it will cost more and will require additional technique.

The most difficult option is a saman ceiling. In most cases, it is simply replaced, however, it is possible to restore, amplifying with wooden beams. Moreover, this is the most real fashion trend in modern design.

TOTAL Ceilings are:

• concrete;
• wooden (beams, boards, log house, wells);
• sacred (here you can turn on bricks and other building materials of this class).

How to raise the ceiling in the old house: what is needed for this

In order to lift the ceilings in your home, you need to either disassemble the design, after which it is necessary to create a new coating, or raise a log house by mounting the lower covering (suitable for wooden not large houses).

It's easy to do it with your hands - it will take advantage of additional technique. The perfect option is to remove the roof, build up to the desired height of the wall and already create a new ceiling level.

When it comes to a two-storey house, such a job will not be profitable - it is better to abandon ideas. That is, it is possible to raise the ceilings from the attic.

It must be remembered that it still will have to:

• strengthen the foundation and foundation;
• align the level of cladding of the main box and the added layer;
• prevent condensate on the joints (close in basalt fiber).

What should be the height of the ceilings in the house

In almost every old house, the ceiling height slides a little over 2 meters. Modern standard - 2.4 meters. However, the standard height increases up to 3 meters. But you need to remember that in those houses that are located outside the city, too high ceiling will create a whole mass of inconvenience. For example, the stove such a room will heat up much more difficult. That's why a comfortable height is considered all the same 2.4 meters.

In the unheated house you can do it less. However, it will be necessary to need thermal insulation from the attic floor.

Based on all this, optimal heights:

• 2.1 meters - for houses that heated with stoves;
• 2.4 - for gasified houses;
• 3 meters - if the ceiling is created in the monolithic structure (but they are already extremely rare).

The ceiling device in the house do it yourself: options

The ceiling, even from the same material, can be stacked by various methods. For example, from wood - on beams or in a crusade (transversely, with longitudinal suspensions). In any case, if the walls are made of brick or concrete, they will have to stick, that is, create a docking recess. Provis will also help when mounting a false ceiling.

What to make fasteners - the owner of the house is solved, based on the stability of the structure, as well as the reliability of the foundation layer. The universal option is the average layout of the shifting and installation of the reinforced layer (even from the fittings with the screed).

That the ceiling is correctly mounted, which has a static limit load exceeds 2-3 times real. That is, it should be simultaneously light, and reliable.

Simplest options:

1. Announced ceiling (a mixture of wood and clay bricks with straw).
2. Wooden ceiling (with beams or just lining).
3. Screed for lighthouses. Cement with reinforcement grid is used. Such a ceiling is not intended for high load.

SAMED HOUSE: Ceiling with your own hands how to make

If you need to sweep the ceiling in a saman house, then it is better to mount it from the tree or the self. You can combine these options - to create a tree crate and all this is closed with a mixture of clay and straw. In principle, it was done until the 80s of the last century almost in all houses of the country type.

The only drawback of Samana - it sweats during the heating period and is easily flammable material. That is, for the heating of such a house, you will have to mount either a system of heating outdoor coating, or burzhuyk (stove), which will be delivered outside the house (will be in the attack).

That is, the basics of the installation of the ceiling in the saman house:

• put a high-quality crate (perfectly - from the cut);
• put on the saman clamp;
• align the level of clay and straw level.

You can even make a saman ceiling even in a residential building. If you visually want to hide it - you can use the suspension design.

What ceilings do in the house: options

Returning to the original question can be answered that each case is individual, so it is impossible to say which ceilings it is better to do in one or another house.

The most durable and reliable are concrete, but they do not assemble them in a saman or clay house (and in chilled, block). Why? Because you need to consider the maximum possible static load on the crate (support for the ceiling).

The restrictions are not entered except when the ceiling arrangement in concrete and brick houses, under which the monolithic foundation is located. That is, first you should consult with a specialist or engineer, which will indicate whether the design will be able to withstand the increased weight.

When choosing a ceiling design, you need to remember only that:

• tree - not reliably and requires special care;
• samama - visually not attractive, so it will have to close the trim;
• concrete is the best option, but it will not work out the ceiling in a wooden house.

Even for bricks, it is not suitable with a belt foundation.

And, of course, every builder who took the ceiling arrangement should take into account its financial capabilities. Reviews It is said that the use of Samam is the most profitable case, if it is not covered with an expensive finish. If we close the finish, it will cost no cheaper than the ceiling from the tree and concrete, or even more expensive, therefore, this option is more suitable for rich people.

How to make a ceiling in a monolithic house

The main complexity that occurs when the ceiling arises in the monolithic house is the impossibility of its subsequent disassembly. That is, the basis is mounted on the strokes (where the struts are set) into the wall.

In the already formed premises, it will be possible to make only a wooden ceiling. Plates put no longer work without removing the roof. And you need to understand that here all the walls are reinforced, and then the slings pass through them. Therefore, level the level - it will not work. Perhaps except to replace the ceiling finish, or create a new false ceiling from the same plasterboard, for example.

That is, when creating a ceiling in a monolithic house, you must consider the following points:

1. The design will stay on the strokes (deepening in the wall).
2. The construction of an additional floor is impossible, so the load on the ceiling will be small (for the attic - suitable, but no more).
3. Adjust the ceiling height - not possible.
4. For overhaul, the ceiling is better to create a false basis. The blackhouse is simply amplified if necessary.

Ceiling in your house do it yourself (video)

Naturally, the options for arranging ceilings - much more than here is described. Now even glass is used for construction, but in residential buildings it is not an option. The optimal choice is wood and concrete. Samama - for old country houses without brickwork. And the installation technology is the same everywhere - either by the crate, or in the strokes.

Ceiling in your house do it yourself (photo)

In order to figure out how to raise the ceiling in a wooden house, it is important to consider the main methods of the process. Based on the general parameters of the finished design, you can select the optimal option.

If the ceiling beams do not protrude, the ceiling is peeling to them from the bottom. The attic side can provide the creation of flooring at the top of the beams.

It is possible to raise the ceiling in a wooden house by 10-20 cm by removing the binder at the bottom. The top will need a good flooring without gaps.

Toned bars in combination with glossy transitions in the form of suspended ceilings will look pretty attractive. If there is incorrect geometry of beams, you can make the ceiling trim using the lining of darker shades.

Note!It is possible to use MDF panels with imitation of oak or teak rocks.

In order to visually examine the technique, how to raise the ceiling in a wooden house - video can be viewed at the preparatory stage.

The positive aspects of the process are in the absence of a violation of the walls of the building. Visual expansion is noticeable, but in fact, the height of the upper beam does not change.

How to lower the beams of the floor surface

Many designs provide for the presence of closed beams between the first and second crown. To ensure the expansion of space, you can conduct a number of works:

• Rent outdoor flooring;
• Cut beams on the walls;
• Accommodate lag on the foundation;
• Make styling boards, plywood or osp.

To ensure the process, you will need more time and money. At the same time, the floor will be placed on the crown below. Windows and doors will become higher than usual.

Removal of ceiling beams and floor hearing

In the presence of rapid and additional beams, you can take advantage of the placement level:

1. The ceiling surface is expanding;
2. Ceiling beams are cut by wall overlap;
3. The ceiling surface is muted on subcupile beams.

In this case, the volume of space is noticeably increased. The height of the ceiling surface in a wooden structure increases on the difference between two sets of beams. This will not affect the deterioration of thermal insulation.

For insulation of an attic surface, it is enough to make a layer of mineral wool.

Floor lowering below tape foundation

• Outdoor coverage is removed.
• Plugs are cut in the form of genital beams.
• Remove the excess soil and subfold.
• A redemption from the crushed stone is reinforced, the new base under the specified level of floor beams is reinforced.
• Foundation beams are stacked.

Free space in the inside of the ribbon base provides additional insulation and an increase in height. The increase in free space is provided by the height of the foundation foundation of the building. At the same time, it is necessary to tune in to carry out a large amount of work and the possibility of moving the soil under the building.

Wooden houses of the old building often sin low ceilings. There may be a lot of reasons for this: from the elementary savings of materials to improper settlements during construction. In new buildings, such things also happen, but the correction of miscalculations in this case is even more complex task, as the tree gives a noticeable shrinkage, and this very difficult to correction.

Methods of elimination

Methods for solving this problem are divided into two groups. It should be remembered that the question must be solved individually, taking into account the characteristics of a particular building. Most of this kind of work are quite performed by their own hands.

• Actually lifting the ceiling - that is, any work is carried out with the ceiling overlap or roof of the building. General advantage of methods - maintaining the level of window and doorways.
• Floor lowering - if for any reason the correction of the ceiling overlap is impossible, then a downgrade of the floor level helps to correct the situation. Reception is used in cases where it allows the foundation of the house.

The rise of the building is a very radical version at which all the building rises on the jacks, and the wall or foundation is completed.

Changing the height of the ceiling

Each method is characterized by its advantages and disadvantages. The use of them depends on the structural features of the building.

The declaration of the stitched ceiling - in the wooden houses of the old building, the ceiling is fixed on the ceiling beams from below, that is, it takes at least 10-20 cm. After removing old boards and sewing the space between them with a finishing material, you can increase the height of the room to be mentioned 10-20 cm. Applied when This various decorative techniques, for example: a combination of dark ceiling beams and light PVC lamellae, as represented in the photo.

• The advantages of the method include a small amount of work, low costs.
• The disadvantage - the change in the height is small if the ceiling overlap is so low that family members hide the heads, then this method will not solve the problem.

Removal ceiling beams - the option is possible if the building is built in all the rules, there are ceiling, and subcording beams. The difference between the beam levels is very noticeable. The order of work is: the finishing boards are removed, the beams are removed - cut off, the new ceiling is fed to the substropsy bases.

• Advantages: a small amount of work, a noticeable increase in height, repair is easily carried out with their own hands.
• The disadvantage is an option to be performed if there is influenced. It worsens thermal insulation, which can be compensated by placing a new layer of insulation in the attic.

Roof restructuring - if the old wooden house is small, and the beams and rafters need to be repaired or partial replacement, it is easier and ultimately the cheaper to disassemble the roof, remove the beams and revering the walls, laying out a couple of crowns. Then you should make a new overlap and welt the roof.

• Advantages - in addition to adjusting the height on any required value, the roof is repaired, as well as the new ceiling finish to their taste. At the same time, the doors and windows remain at the same level.
• Disadvantages - very fair amount of work.

Changing the floor level

The methods of this group are distinguished by one disadvantage - the height of not only the premises, but also windows, and doors, which can create significant inconveniences.

The change in the position of the beams - in the old buildings of the floor beams are fixed between the second and the first crown, that is, the cavity is formed between the foundation and the floor. The method is reduced to removing floor beams and installing lags on the foundation. Check out that the disappearance of the air cavity under the floor reduces the thermal insulation, so it is recommended before the filling of the new, take care of the heat insulator.

• Advantages are a small amount of work, the removal of beam does not affect the state of the foundation.
• Disadvantage - change the level of windows and doors.

The decrease in the floor level below the foundation - the method is fraught with the hazard of the basement of the foundation, and therefore should be used with caution. We implement only if the base refers to the type of tapes. The procedure for actions is: the flooring and floor beams are removed, part of the soil and submetage are removed. It should be remembered that the depth of the recess cannot be greater than the depth of the foundation. Then a filling and fill of the base at the new level, laying of lags and flooring.

• Advantages - a significant change in the height of the room.
• Disadvantages - the danger of the bias of the foundation, a fair amount of work, a long period of execution.

The video about presents several ways to change the height of the ceiling.

Last method

It is applied in cases when none of the above is suitable. The solution is quite risky, since the error when climbing can entail the offset of the house to the side and damage to the latter.

Previously, it is necessary to correctly evaluate the weight of the building, based on the thickness of the walls and the tree of the tree, since the difference in wood density can be quite significant. Also, if a furnace is built in the building, then you need to disassemble chimney before lifting.

It is recommended to use when lifting several jacks with a carrying capacity of 5 tons. You can raise the building with a single device, but the first method is somewhat faster. The process comes down to gradual - not more than 50 mm at a time, raising the wooden house to the required height. When lifting, it should be fixed with wedges or backups, as is demonstrated in the photo.

After the desired height is achieved, in the formationthe crowns are added in the opening - you can use both logs and timber, but necessarily the same tree species as the rest of the wall material, or the foundation is increasing. Then the house is rejuvenated again, the backups and the building is descended. Walls, interior decoration, the roof does not change perfectly. However, the scope of work is significant, and window and doorways are on an unusual high level.

The main element of the attic and inter-storey floors in many private houses is a wooden beam. The service life of wood overlaps is limited due to the properties of wood, especially if it was poorly processed or exposed to the load and exposure to moisture.

As a consequence of such factors, the beam ceases to cope with the function assigned to it (possible sagging, deflection, curvature) and it will require an increase in the wooden beams of overlapping.

In addition to damage and loss of bearing body beams and ceiling (lag, runs), the strengthening can be dictated by an increase in the load on the overlap.

When you need to strengthen wooden beams overlapping

• bad condition. It is a consequence of damage to wood. Increased humidity, temperature drops, activities of various pests (cored beetles), cracking - all this leads to the deformation of the beam overlap;

• reducing the bearing ability. Under its own weight, constant and variable load loading beams can be fed. According to regulations, if the deflection is within 1: 300, it is not worried about what. For example, if the beam is 2500 mm long. Running 10 mm. This corresponds to the normal value of the deflection. If the deflection rate is more - it should be strengthened;

• the need to increase the beam's beam. Associated, for example, with a perestroika attic under the attic or residential premises. Such a restructuring will lead to an increase in constant and variable loads on the overlap of the second floor, which automatically requires a change in the section of installed wooden beams.

Within the article, several common ways to enhance the overlapping (, reconstruction) will be given. But, accurately answer the question how to strengthen the wooden beams of overlapping can only professional and only after analyzing the structure of the structure. Indeed, in each case, the decision will be individually.

Using the table, you can get an idea of \u200b\u200bwhich section should be at the beam at a certain load.

Material prepared for site site

Ways of enhancing wooden beams overlap

The main types and methods of enhancing wooden floors are given in the order of increasing labor costs and the duration of work.

Strengthening type without changing the working conditions

Strengthening wooden lining

The method is used in the case when the tree is damaged. The linings are installed on both sides of the beam from the bar (on the sides or on top and below), the most tightly to it and fasten (tighten) through the bolt. It is important to treat the damaged area and the lining with antifungal mortar. In a critical case, if the site is damaged much - it is better to remove it. To enhance the beam, you need to fix the lining along its entire length.

Strengthening the spans with metal linings (plates) or rod prosthesis

Steel plates are used instead of the wooden described above. Metal also need to be treated with anti-corrosion solution. The device diagram is shown in the figure.

Increased overlap of carbon fiber (carbon fiber)

Modern strengthening technology (carbon fiber reinforcement). Carbon fiber (ribbons, sheets, plates, threads, fabric) paste into several layers until the required stiffeners of the beams are reached. The convenience of work and ease of material lead to the fact that the carbonistics is becoming popular as an effective means for restoring beams and building structures.

Below is the scheme of reinforcement (amplification) of the beams of overlapping by carbon fiber.

Strengthening on the ends with wooden or metal prostheses

The technology allows to enhance the beam in the joints of the junction with the bearing wall. This is exactly the place where, due to temperature drops, wood damage occurs faster.

The scheme below shows the technology gain with prostheses from a chapellor, rolling profile

Installation of rod prosthesis

The rod protest of the Daidbekov system is performed from two paired farms, which are made of reinforcement of reinforcement steel with a cross section (diameter) of 10-25 mm. The length of the protester should be 10% more than the double length of the rotten end of the beam, but not more than 1.2 m.

1. Set temporary supports under the overlap at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the bearing wall consisting of racks and run.
2. Disassemble the overlap from the bottom to the width of 75 cm and from above - 1.5 m from the wall.
3. Cut off the damaged section of the beam (0.5m)
4. To start the prosthesis blank vertically in the interoard overlap and turn into a horizontal position, first coming to the beam, then, in the opposite direction, rushing into the wall niche.
5. Disintegrate and navigate the sliding bar.

Strengthening type with a change in working conditions

Strengthening wooden floors in such ways in such ways provides for a substantial restructuring of the bearing structures of beam spans.

Non-standard solutions

If there is no way to strengthen the wooden beams of overlapping, you can try to unload them, i.e., distribute the load from existing beams to additionally installed items.

Strengthening overlap by installing supports under beams

Supports supporting beams from below are a good way to redistribute the load from the beam on the support.

Strengthening overlap by installing additional beams

If existing lags are safe and maintained, it is possible to increase their carrying capacity by increasing their quantity. Installation of additional wooden beams will increase the load on the design. By establishing new lags, it is necessary to protect their ends with rubberoid to avoid damage.

We hope that from the above ways to strengthen wooden beams of overlapping, you will pick up exactly the one that will solve your problem in the best possible way and with minimal costs.

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Ceiling in a private house: 13 steps to comfort and practicality

This article is on how to make a ceiling in a private house. In it, I am going to touch on the problems of choosing the height of the ceiling, its structures and selection of materials for its installation and design. Let's proceed.

Height

Minimum

1. What is the minimum possible height of the ceilings in a private house?

2.4 meters. By reducing the height even stronger, you will make residential rooms with uncomfortable: the ceilings will be literally putting on the inhabitants of the house, forcing them constantly bent.

By the way: already at an altitude of 2.4 - 2.5 meters a man above the average growth will be clinging head-sided chandeliers and lamps. Personally verified: with growth, 186 cm freely move in a typical Khrushchev or Brezhnev with suspended light sources it is quite difficult for me.

Optimum

1. What is the optimal ceiling height in the house?

If we talk only about the subjective perception of the room - the more, the better. High room Even with a relatively small area looks spacious. However, with a significant height of the ceilings in full growth, sorry for the invalid pun, the problem of heating arises.

Warm air tends up, and in order to provide a comfortable temperature at the floor level, under the ceiling it will have to be heated to +30 + 35c. Excess air heating under the attic ceiling means an unjustified increase in heat loss: they are always proportional to the temperature delta with the street.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

• When convection heating (using or convectors) - limiting the height of the ceilings with a value of about 2.7 meters. In my opinion, this height is a reasonable compromise between comfort and heat saving;

Tip: The standard height of overlaps in new buildings is precisely such - 2.7 meters. In most homes of Soviet projects, it is noticeably less - 2.6, 2.5 and even 2.45 m.

• In addition, heat distribution in the high room will be optimal in the case of a warm floor - water, cable or film. It will provide a comfortable temperature at the human height level, not overheating the air at the ceiling.

By the way: in houses with the second light, the warm floor and infrared heaters are generally the only heat sources capable of ensuring a comfortable temperature. When using convection heating, there will be inevitable or heat at the level of the second floor, or the cold cold at the bottom.

House with the second light. The only reasonable way of heating is a warm floor.

Above, even higher

1. How to increase the height of the ceilings in the house?

If you have panel or monolithic reinforced concrete floors, you can only change the visual perception of the room height, using the tools from the arsenal of designers.

What exactly?

• Bright colors make objects seem more remote than in fact. The effect is emphasized by contrasting color surrounding objects. Simply put, if you paint the ceiling in white, and the walls make dark - the room will look much higher than the real size;

• The same effect can be achieved by lighting games. To increase the visible ceiling height, its hidden illumination is organized by spotlights or sofits.

Overlapping on wooden beams give much more space for a real increase in room height.

If the ceiling is ended on the bottom of the beams - it is worth removing the binder (as a rule, a boardy shield) and put the flooring between the beams, along the cranial bars, or on top of them. Yes, and here the effect will be largely visual, because the beams will be only two or three centimeters above the old binder; However, the room will become much more spacious.

A more radical way is a physical increase in overlap height. For this, alas, it is necessary to remove the roof, so the work should be coincided with the overhaul of the roof. The height of the walls increases due to several additional rows of masonry or laid on the top of the walls of the new crowns.

Credit can and raise on jacks, starting for him Additional one or two crowns.

Finally, their dismantling is often practiced in houses with a floor on wooden beams with styling of a warmed screed on the soil. The disadvantage of this method is that the windows and thresholds of door openings will noticeably raise relative to the level of the first floor.

How to raise the ceilings in this way?

• The floor is revealed with full dismantling of flooring and insulation;

• Cut beams;
• Soil is removed and levels;

The underground can not be deepened below the foundation level. This is fraught with soil drawders and wall deformation.

• A sandy or sand-gravel pillow is formed on the soil with a thickness of at least 10-15 centimeters. It will provide drainage and lack of ground freezing under the floor;
• Over the sand spreads the layer of waterproofing with the allen on the walls (as a rule, tight polyethylene protrudes in this role);
• From above, concrete preparation is laid out - a pillow with a thickness of 8-10 centimeters from low-hour (M-100 - M150) concrete;

• After a set of strength to them, the layer of insulation - polystyrene foam or polyfoam density C-35 is laid. Thickness is determined by local climatic conditions. It is usually equal to 40-50 millimeters;
• Over another layer of waterproofing film on stands 15 - 25 mm height, a galvanized reinforcement grid is laid out with a cell 10-15 cm and a wire thickness of 5-6 mm;
• It is filled with a screed with a thickness of 8-10 cm. After a set of strength and alignment of the surface by any convenient way (bulk floor, plywood, etc.), it is possible to lay a fixed coating.

Concrete should come into contact with the walls of the walls only through waterproofing. In her absence, the lower crowns of the church or the frame of the walls are quickly charged.

Materials and solutions

Reinforced concrete floors

1. What finish options are used for slab and monolithic reinforced concrete floors?

The simplest (but not the cheapest) way to make the overlap perfectly smoothly - to order a stretch ceiling. In the Crimea, where I live, it will cost in the amount of 400 rubles per square meter. The future owner is useful to know several features of this decision:

• The minimum distance from the overlap to the tension flow canvase is about 4 centimeters. Accordingly, the room will be insignificant, but below;

• The strip of tension of the canvas is about 70 kgf on the phenomenon meter of the baguette, which is attached to the walls. Accordingly, all walls should have sufficient strength with respect to horizontal load. Plasterboard partitions are erected with a reinforced frame, and the bondes of multi-level plasterboard ceilings for fastening the baguette are strengthened by shares from the profile;

• Glossy ceilings are made from the finest vinyl film. For its tension, the air in the room is heated by a gas heat gun to 65 - 75 degrees; After cooling, the canvas is stretched and done perfectly smooth.

Gloss visually makes room higher due to the ghostly reflection of its interior, which is an undoubted plus. However, the thin film is not distinguished by durability: it can be damaged even a shot of champagne cork;

• Matte fabric ceilings are cheaper and stronger glossy. However, due to the peculiarities of the combination of cloths on them remain noticeable seams;
• If you plan to hide under the stretch ceilings hidden lamps, platforms for them and electricity wiring need to be mounted in advance. In the location of the lamp, an amplifying ring paste on the cloth, after which the fabric or film inside the ring is cut.

The overlap under the stretch ceiling is pre-treated with antiseptic soil. Impermeable for air canvas will limit the ventilation of the surface of the plates or monolith, and it is desirable that the fungus does not take advantage.

How to separate reinforced concrete overlap if stretch ceilings for some reason (for example, due to a small room height) are undesirable?

The most obvious way is to level the ceiling with plaster plaster (Rotband, HP Start and so on) with the subsequent shtailing on the glass wall.

In this case, the finish is done like this:

• The ceiling is cleaned from whitewashing and old plaster (of course, if they are). This work is easiest to perform a rigid steel spatula, previously two to three times with a slight gap richly smoeming the surface with a sprayer or a wide brush;
• In the slab overlap is selected (cleaned from the cement solution of the old seal) of the seams. Tools - chisel and hammer or small quorce;
• The entire surface of the overlap is grounded with adhesive soil (concrete-contact) with an additive antiseptic;
• To the ceiling in the level, in one horizontal plane the lighthouse profiles are attached. For their attachment it is better to use no plaster or putty, but building gypsum - it is grasted for 3-7 minutes, and not for 30-40;
• The plaster is attacked or flashed on the ceiling by a medium spatula or rectangular cell. After the site is filled between 1 - 1.5 meters long profiles, excessive are removed by a long rule. Passage each site by rule will have several times, with repeated failures;

The layer of plaster should not be thicker 3 cm. If the differences between the ceiling plates exceed this value, it is better to prefer a suspension or stretch ceiling.

• After drying plasters, we turn to the shtlock. Plaster putty (I personally liked the most ABS SATEN) is superimposed by a narrow (10-12 cm) with a spatula on medium (30-35 cm) and flashes on the ceiling by sliding movements as a thin layer.

After the spitting of the section is 1 - 1.5 meters long in putty the same spatula is pressed with a cellular reinforcing glass with a cell of about 2 mm. The second layer of putty covers the glass tub, completely hiding its invoice;

• The last stage is grinding. I use an inexpensive vibration grinder with grinding nets No. 80 and No. 120 for the first and second passage, respectively.

Grinding the ceiling is needed with braid lighting, emphasizing the slightest irregularities, and with the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses and respirator or gauze bandage. Gypsum dust is strongly irritating the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasopharynx.

1. Which ceiling is better to make indoors with high humidity - bathroom, toilet or combined bathroom?

Here are the types of finish, the most resistant to dampness:

• Already mentioned by me stretch ceilings;
• Plastering ceilings using cement mixtures. The technology of their application is not fundamentally different from the gypsum. If the plaster with high humidity turns and becomes plastic, then the cement fully retains its mechanical properties;

To equalize the surface by plaster, use a putty on white cement. It will be much less shone through painting.

• Suspended - from wall and ceiling plastic panels.

1. How to build a ceiling of panels?

To do this, you will need:

• Ceiling guides UD profiles (27x28 mm) with a total length equal to the perimeter of the room with a small margin on trimming;
• Ceiling profiles CD (60x27 mm) with a length equal to or greater than the length or width of the room (they are 3- and 4 meters). Their quantity should allow you to mount the crate in a step of no more than 60 centimeters - with a larger step, the plastic panels are saved after 1 - 1.5 years;

Tip from Captain Obvious: The lamp is mounted perpendicular to the panels. The maximum length of the panels can reach 6 meters, so they are usually oriented parallel to a longer room wall.

• Direct suspensions are attached along each ceiling profile with a step of no more than 80 cm;
• For their mounting and for mounting the guide ceiling profile, a dowel is used - screws 6x60 - 8x80 mm;
• Profiles are connected to each other and with suspension screws for metal 9 mm long. The same self-draws, but already 25 mm long, are made to the panel profiles;
• Actually suspended ceiling is collected from polyvinyl chloride wall or ceiling panels of the maximum available width with seamless puzzle locks;

Stop your choice on white glossy panels. They visually almost no differ from the glossy stretch ceiling; At the same time, they are much stronger and extremely easy to care: the surface can be wiped with a wet sponge with any non-abrasive detergent.

• To edge the ceiling and in order to hide its adjoining to the walls, you can use vinyl, polyurethane or foam plinth. The latter is the lowest and most easy to install: it can be glued to walls and ceiling on any universal glue, sealant or acrylic putty.

Preparation of the surface of the overlap is reduced only to the processing of antiseptic soil: suspended ceiling, as well as a tension, dramatically worsen its ventilation and can lead to a fungus.

The construction of the ceiling is performed in the following order:

• On the perimeter of the room in the horizontal plane to the wall mounted the ceiling guide profile. Fastening step - 50 - 60 cm;
• Perpendicular to the panels on the ceiling placed the position of the ceiling profiles;
• Along every one of them, with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are mounted;
• Ceiling profiles, cut by metal scissors, are inserted into the guides and pressed to the overlap bent into the ears of the suspensions;
• A few threads are tensioning between guide profiles, which will serve as landmarks in the same ceiling profile plane. Each of them falls to touch the thread, after which the sides of the suspensions are attracted to it. The free part of the ears bends up;
• Ceiling profiles are screwed to the guides;

• In parallel, one of the walls is mounted first panel, cut in the size of the ceiling.

Tip: PVC It is most convenient to cut the grinder with any abrasive disc. And in this case, the protection of the eyes and respiratory organs is important: small plastic dust evenly fills the entire volume of the room and very slowly settles.

• The panel is attached to the profile at a minimum distance from the wall passing through the screws. On the other hand, the panel of the self-tapping screw is attracted to the profile protruding of its puzzle castle;
• The next panel is inserted into the castle first, after which its protrusion is also attracted to the ceiling profile by self-draws - and so on the entire width of the room;
• The last panel is again attached through it by self-draws at the minimum distance from the wall. Fasteners hats will be hidden by ceiling plinth;
• The plinth is glued to the last turn, after the finishing of the walls is completed.

Beam overlap

1. What makes the draft ceiling on the beams?

Here are the basic materials for binder a draft ceiling:

• Edged and unedged board. The boarding shield is usually used to lay insulation on it. The board can be used to beams from below, and to fit between them, for cranial bars;

• Screenboard;
• Plywood 10 - 18 mm thick (depending on the step between the beams);
• OSP of the same thickness.

1. What makes a finishing ceiling?

Here are finishing materials that can be used for this purpose:

• Plasterboard and gypsum fiber sheet;

It is better to use not GVL, but GLK. Even if the sheet is broken during transportation or installation, it can be used: the chips of the gypsum core will keep the shell from kraft paper in the same plane. It is enough just to securely fix the GLC in the area of \u200b\u200bdamage.

• Wooden lining;
• Already familiar to us plastic wall panels;
• Plywood. Yes, it can perform the role of decorative finishing coating. Sliced \u200b\u200bplywood with squares is varied; The slots between the adjacent sheets are closed by ostels from the rail painted in the contrasting color.

Overlapping with flooring under the insulation of cranial bars.

1. How and how to sew the bottom of the cranial bars?

Plasterboard can be screwed directly to the boards with self-draws 32 - 45 mm long. Adjunction to the beams are put off; Horizontal sections of the ceiling and beams are usually painted in contrasting colors.

With the same success, you can stripped with wall panels. They attract to the boards by self-draws through the protrusions of the locks or sit on the glue. The role of edging is the starting profile or plastic corner.

1. How to svew a boardy shield on the beams below?

Each board is attached to the beam at the place of their intersection with two nails, clogged with a rotary (at an angle with inclination in different directions). This method of fastening will not give the weight of the ceiling and insulation to pull fasteners.

1. How to make a wooden ceiling with your own hands from the lining on the beams?

The lining is attached through kleimers - galvanized steel curly plates. To the beams they are better fixed by self-draws. Kleimers allow you to disassemble the ceiling without damage to the lining.

Galvanized kleimer is a simple fixture for fastening a puzzle castle lining to the crate.

Ceiling edging is traditionally performed by a wooden plinth. The transverse gaps between the board connected along the length are hidden by thin rails.

1. How to mount plasterboard?

It is attracted to a solid boardless shield with self-drawing in a step of 20-25 centimeters. But when installing on beams or rafters (in the attic or in the attic), under GKK or GVL will have to collect the crate. I montaped it like this:

• According to the rafters with the insulation laid between them (5 cm mineral wool and 5 cm of foam density C-25), a vapor barrier film was laid. The goal is to prevent the insulation moistening and dropping rafters. Furniture stapler was used to binder film;

• UD guide Ceiling profile has been fixed to the front. In my case, they are panoramic windows, so the profile had to be attached directly to plastic frames;
• Along the attic to the rafters was laid on direct suspension ceiling profile. On compounds of inclined and horizontal sections of the ceiling near each other, two profiles were mounted;
• GLC sheets were attracted across the profiles of the crate. I used a wall drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm instead of a thinner ceiling, since the lower part of the slant sections is at an altitude of only 1.9 meters and may be subject to mechanical effects. For fastening, phosphated screws 25 mm long with a step of 15 - 20 cm were used;

• The seams were put off with a gypsum putty ABS and were sampled with a rolled glass cooler, planted on PVA glue, after which they were covered with another layer of putty.

Special mention deserves how the space ventilation is arranged above the ceiling. From there, the air selection is organized by an exhaust fan through one of the farms of the attic; At its corners, four intake ventilation grids are installed in the finishing ceiling.

In the photo - lattices for ventilation of space between the ceiling and the roof of the attic.

For painting of plasterboard stream were used:

• In dry rooms - the office and bedroom - latex water-dispersion paint, resistant to dry abrasion;
• In the bathroom - waterproof rubber water-based paint. It reliably protects the GLC from the spray of water and washes any cleaning means except abrasive. The texture of the painted surface isolate, with a slight glitter.

Conclusion

Of course, in a relatively small amount of article, I mentioned not all possible solutions. Learn more about what to see the ceiling in a private house, a respected reader will help the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Successes, Camrads!

October 3, 2016.

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