How to fix the rail to the concrete wall. How to mount a bar to concrete

In what cases is there a need to mount a wooden bar to the wall? When installing various designs to the wall, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the structure, details and fasteners. Often there is a need to fix on the wall of an element of the interior, furniture, fix household and e-equipment. In order to install a wooden door, make redevelopment, make a facing at home or simply install a visor over the front door of the private house you need to make a wooden bar. If you want to make an extension like a wooden veranda for a cottage house, you will need to attach a wooden timber to the wall.

First you need to figure out what a wall, wooden or brick, concrete or drywall, in order to choose the right method and the fasteners method.

Today at any store your choice will be presented a wide selection of fasteners. Not every person will be able to independently make the right choice without confusing in their destination.

How to attach a wooden bar to a concrete wall?

Prepare a timber and drilled holes in it under the fastening element, you can proceed to the preparation of the wall on which the design will be attached.

To begin with, drieve a hole. We need a spiral-like drill of solid alloys, drill with a winning tip or with diamond spraying.
To preserve the service life, dried periodically cool it in water, in order to avoid overheating.
Then prepare a wooden tube, plunge it into glue, but not based on water so that the wood does not swell.
You can still make a lead plug on your own. To do this, take a sheet of lead, cutting a strip suitable for the hole, tweet into the tube.
Then the nail to protrude it and tighten the screw.

And you can also use monolith from alabastra or gypsum solution.

We take the copper wire and cover it on the screw in the form of a spiral, then filled the hole with the prepared solution and they also welt the wire on the screw. No slow a second, in order to avoid drying the solution, press the screw into the hole to the required depth. Extreme surplus of the solution to remove, without waiting for frozen. After 10 minutes, the screw should be turned out to prevent its drying together with the solution. When the plug becomes a monolith with the wall, you can start the mounting of the bar.

Although when it comes to concrete, whether it is a brick or solution, the anchor bolts are best suited. They will ensure the fastening strength.

How to attach a wooden bar to a brick wall?

If you have working with a brick wall, use only the drill. Drilling carefully and slowly, even without increasing around, in order to avoid split and scattering bricks. If you hit the concrete, it is better to use a drill with a perforator function, it will help to crush it. Often there are cases of hollow brick. How to be here? It is better to use a dowel that is folded into the node when twisting. Carefully screw it into a burst hole, so that you do not break his details.

In the concrete, screws are better screwed using dowels from durable plastic. Dowel is paved between concrete and self-tapping screw. It can also be lubricated it with glue.

For fastening a wooden bar to a brick wall, an anchor is also perfect, which, unlike nails and screws, can cope with any load.

How to attach a wooden bar to the wall from the gas block?

Before starting the fastening of a wooden bar to a gasoblock, you need to consider that aerated concrete material, as it is soft enough. Therefore, the magnitude of the load of the bar here has a very important role.

If it is a small brown of low weight, then you can use bolts or screws. Wedge-shaped bolts will be more appropriate, because they are firmly sitting in the material. It will also suit the screw having a thread along the entire length.

For fastening more heavy structures, shelves or lockers, we need metal or plastic dowels.

For fastening full-scale materials it is better to use nylon dowels in the center of the subject. Hollow materials can be cling around the edges.

When performing compounds with a gas-concrete surface, it is necessary to take into account that items made from metal, interacting with the block, can collapse. So consult with the experts, they will definitely prompt you proven fastening elements.

How to attach a wooden bar to a wooden wall?

In this case, the perforated fastener method is common both in roofing works and in the furniture industry. Perforated elements are fixed with nails, self-draws or screws.

Perforated plates connect the parts in one plane, for example, the installation of the roof. There are also corners, various in width, to enhance and connect the design. For auxiliary elements of a small weight, a mounting tape is suitable.

The most familiar way of fastening wooden structures is nails. Liquid nails are more often used in everyday life, assembling furniture and construction. The use of nails will seem very easily way, but you can not forget the technique of clogging a nail. If you use a bolt with a wrench at the end, you can easily score a nail in any hard-to-reach place. Calculate in advance how long the nail you need. For a stronger combination of boards, nails are driven at an angle to each other. Too dry wood will split the nail faster. If the timber has too high density, keep the nail under the passage for the middle so that it does not get bent. For large nails, you can pre-drill a hole that will be already it yourself. Make a small drilling under the hat.

How to attach a wooden bar to a plasterboard wall?

With the help of drywall, you can create various designs of sufficiently smooth surfaces. At the same time, it is rather fragile, so on its surface to fasten the wooden bar is problematic. The use of conventional nails and self-tapping screws will not lead to the desired result. Even light items may be eliminated, taking selflessness with them, and leave a hole.

For the strength of the fastening, before starting the installation of sheets of plasterboard, lay a wooden bar in places where the need for strengthening is expected in the future. Thus, the load will be on the bar itself, so that the mount can be made by the same self-tapping screw. But when installing, it is often not always envisaged, what load will be in one place or another.

For drywall there are special attachments. Depending on the load on the timber, the type of fastening is chosen.

When using a nylon or metal anchor, first screw it with scolding in plasterboard, then fasten it with a self-tapping screw. But this method is the weakest, since there is no fixation on the reverse side.

For a stronger fixation, it is better to use the drop-down metal anchor. To do this, insert an anchor into the hole in the folded form. Tighten the anchor, it will turn around, fixing in a sheet of plasterboard.

In order to fix the timber using a universal plastic dowel, you must perform the following steps:

drill a hole of the suitable diameter;
insert a dowel into the hole;
i fix the subject we need with the help of self-build;
the dowel is folded by the node, providing fixation from the reverse side.

The most reliable fastening is tested by time

When mounting a bar to a concrete wall, of course, the most reliable fastening will be fixed with anchor.

Reliable fastening of a wooden bar is known since ancient times, when even the concept was not "fast installation" and "perforator", the screws and dowels were not invented yet. In the wall of brick, blocks, or in the ceiling made of reinforced concrete, a hole with a jumper was made. In the hole, blurred cement, scored a large wooden rod. In this rod through a wooden bar scored a nail. Despite the fact that now our choice is provided with various fasteners and elements, modern techniques and equipment, this method of fastening, albeit hard, but still spread. Apply this method appropriate with small loads on the timber.

The use of P-shaped brackets for the plasterboard profile is considered a softer method. A positive difference here is considered short deadlines. But the mount does not have sufficient rigidity. If you hit the wooden bruster with force, the bracket will be bludging, and the design surface will break.

py-sm.com.

How to perform mounting timber to the wall?

The mounting of the bar to the wall is present in the process of any construction of the country or private house. Mounting technology is relatively simple and consists of several stages.

Schemes for fastening a bar to the wall.

The mounting of the bar occurs at a certain distance between each other. The gap between the fasteners is made depending on the cross section of the bar and, accordingly, the quality of the wall surface.

Thus, if the parameters of a bar 4 × 5 cm or 5 × 6, then it is fixed every 80 cm. In this case, this item is set only after you decide what you will sow the wall surface. The savings of free space during finishing is also the main factor in the selection of the cross section of the bar.

When installing, do not forget to take into account the irregularities, roughness and other wall deformations. In this case, you should pick up the construction fasteners strictly in height - so you hide all flaws. If in the house where you are engaged in the trim, the surface consists of wood, then before fixing the bar, it is necessary to carefully treat it with an antiseptic or olifa, so that it does not occur with mold and the tree did not undergo negative effects of insects.

There are 2 methods of fastening the framework: soft and solid. Each of them has its own features of the work.

What do you need to fix timber to the walls?

You will need the following devices and materials:

Tools for working with a timber.

bar;
antiseptic;
olife;
a hammer;
nails;
screws;
ax;
sabashka;
drill;
wooden chop;
chisel;
plane.

Fastening technology: Soft method

This method is applied using a P-shaped bracket. The method has both advantages and disadvantages. The main plus of a soft attachment on the wall of the bar - the speed of work, minus - the unreliability of fixing the frame, the design can collapse over time.

Among other disadvantages, fragility of the bar marks: the frame can be easily spoiled, accidentally hitting it. Therefore, it is worth thinking before you are going to perform this work. However, there is still a solution: if the elements are stacked for decoration of walls from plastic panels, then deformations are usually not observed. It should take into account that the covering of panels with a wooden frame is performed perpendicular to the element panels themselves. At the bottom of the wall, laying timber occurs more often than in the upper area. As a rule, a bell fastener to a height of up to 1.5 m is located every 0.4 m. Above this mark, the distance is made more and can be 0.6-0.7 m.

Such work can be done yourself. Mounting the frame does not require special skills in the field of construction, it is important only to comply with the instructions.

Mounting Features Hardwood

Scheme for fastening a timber with a soft method using a bracket.

The method is characterized by its reliability, strength and durability of the design.

Experts advise to make fastenings on the walls just a hard way, as it does not arise in further problems with the deformation of the carcass.

In the process of work, a jumper is used - the device to do the holes. You should drill the hole to install fasteners. It does not matter, a wall of concrete or brick - this tool will help you cope with the task.

In the formed hole insert a wooden chop (clog it with a hammer). Next, in the Chop, you must score a nail through a sabank or a bar.

This method is used more often than a soft way of fasteners. However, despite the guarantee and quality of work, he has one main disadvantage - time. The process of the walls of the wall takes you a lot of strength and time that is so lacking with a modern person.

Montage with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

Schemes of rigid fixing timber.

First of all, you need to make a markup, which will be the basis for creating a project. This is done so that you can determine the surface of the walls.

The next step is the strapping. To do this, lay the elements strictly along the contour of the aligned wall. In case you are going to align one wall, it is necessary to mount the bar to the walls that are perpendicular. When installing does not require the use of linings.

First, it is recommended to make a small hole in the part installed. Make it need so that you can insert screws. At the same time, remember that the diameter of the drilled hole must be slightly larger than the diameter of the screw.

Then you take the product and apply it to the surface of the wall. Make part of this work with the help of hammer and nail. Your task is in transferring the mark for the hole to the surface.

The next stage of work is to drill the intended holes. As a rule, in them you must score a wooden chop or ordinary dowels.

Scheme of fastening timber among themselves.

Now you are creating and install all the additional contour items. For convenience, you should stretch between them the thread. Why do you need a thread? For it, you can easily set the height of the bag, and in all places of fastening of the bar to the wall. Thus, you measure the distance that is formed from the wall surface to the thread. Then we subtract the height of the element from this distance.

Then you should take pieces of plywood of various thicknesses and build a sabank. In the process of work, you will need an ax and a chisel.

After the sabashka is ready, you can start drumming the hole in it. The diameter of the tailored hole must be larger than the diameter of the screw.

Next, you should do holes in the bar, so that later it was possible to attach it to the wall. How to drill a hole depends on the height of the element, as well as on the material from which it is made. For example, if the timber has a height of more than 6 cm, and the material is a larch, then use a drill with a drill with a diameter of 12 mm. When installing, take into account one important circumstance: a screw from a screw must be completely included in the bar, do not allow no elevations, try to arrange a screw in the inside of the element.

If the timber has a significant thickness, then you should do holes with a depth of 3 cm. Then we proceed to the fastener of the element to the surface with the previously manufactured sabs.

To make sure that the fixed timber is fixed, use the construction level. If it happened so that the timber is attached to the surface slightly higher than planned, then unscrew the screw and replace the hat. You can use the second way: unscrew the screw (not only to the end) and put the gaskets of the necessary parameters on both sides of the element.

In the case of the location of the bar below the planned level, unscrew the screw and change the sabank. However, if the difference in the marks is a slight height (up to 2 mm), you can shoot an unnecessary part with the help of the Construction Ramp.

Mounting bar to brick wall: installation features

To get started, you should purchase:

dowels;
self-tapping screw;
anchors;
rivets;
nails;
corners.

Choose the right drill you will be able to store in a construction store. The drilling process takes a lot of time from you, but it will not work differently.

Mounting is made according to the standard scheme: make holes and with special fixtures secure the timber. Be careful: with the wrong installation, the whole design can collapse.

The mounting of the bar to the concrete wall is carried out by the same instructions, fixtures and materials are the same. However, the main tool is a drill that can make holes in concrete (the drill is useless here). In the rest of the work, you will also need to drill, calculate and secure. Thus, if all the points of fasteners are observed, the bar will hold securely.

1poderevu.ru.

How to mount a timber to the wall from various materials

During construction or repair work, it is often necessary to attach a wooden bar to the wall of the house. If you need to create a frame for facing material, set any element of furniture or home appliances, make redeveloping walls or perform the construction of an extension, in any of these cases it is necessary to secure a wooden bar to the wall.

Mounting with nails

Further installation of wooden bars largely depends on the further performance of the work and reliability of the structure. First of all, you should choose the installation method and the necessary fasteners.

As a rule, for the construction and decoration of the walls used:

·concrete;
·brick;
·wood;
· Foot concrete blocks;
· Plasterboard.

Mounting with the help of corners

After you have installed, to which material will have to install wooden bars, you can decide with the choice of fasteners. It is possible to calculate its quantity on the basis of the following norms: when the rail section of 2.5 to 4 cm, the distance between the fasteners should be up to 60 cm, on a bar with a cross section of 4 to 6 cm they are located at a distance of 70-80 cm.

Installation of timber for concrete base

To secure wooden slats on a concrete base, you need to perform the following steps. Initially, the timber is prepared, drilling holes in it under fasteners. Next, at the same distance we drill holes in the wall. For more accurate markup, you can applied to the surface of the wall already a drilled timber and apply marks on the available holes.

The drilling of concrete is carried out by a winning drill or drill with diamond spraying. It is better to use a drill with a perforator function. During the drill, the holes too heated drill are lowered during the water and cooled.

Further, wooden chops are clogged into the wall, the bar is applied and a nail is driven into each chop through it. In the next photo you can see how the mount for a concrete base looks. Carnate the rails from a tree to concrete can also be using anchors (in the photo below).

How to fix bars on brick

If the wall of the house is laid out of the brick, you should apply a slightly different installation technology. To do this, at a distance of a bar, we drill the holes with a drill on the tree, then change the drill to the winner. Having attached to the wall to the wall, through the drilled holes, we perform marking, anmative brick.

After removing the bar and drill holes in the brick wall of the required depth and width. At the same time, the drill is recommended to keep directly and not to break out, otherwise you can open the brick. You can mount the timber to the brick wall using dowels and screws. Anchor can also be used for the brick wall.

Features of the installation of wooden plates to aerated concrete

Recently, fuel-concrete blocks have often used to build houses and other buildings. They are easy to handle, so the building is built much faster. However, with a certain softness of aerated concrete, the features of the installation of bars on its surface are connected.

First of all, the choice of fasteners will depend on the magnitude of the future load on the bar. If the design is not loaded with a lot of weight, you can screw the screws or bolts of wedge-shaped in the blocks of aerated concrete. For this purpose, you can also use screws with threads along the entire length.

In order for the design to withstand fairly loads, steel or plastic dowels are used.

When choosing a fastener, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the aerated concrete blocks may eventually have a destructive effect on the metal. Therefore, before buying it is desirable to consult with the seller and find out all possible risks.

Installation of a wooden house wall

Quite often, during the construction of walls, the glued or profiled timber is also used. How do you need to mount the bar to the wall of the brusade house? Most often, perforated fasteners are used to connect wooden surfaces. It is possible to fasten them on the surface of the bar and walls using nails, screws or screws. Perforated fasteners are produced different types. To fasten the elements in the same plane, the plates are used if the mount must be carried out in different planes, the corners use.

If there is no long pressure on the design, you can use the mounting tape. Using nails for fastening wooden elements, you should adhere to a few simple rules. If nails have to clog in hard-to-reach places, you should use a bolt with a nut at the end. It is also necessary to choose the right length of nails.

So that the design is more stable, nails are clogged at a distance at a certain angle one to another. If the rails are made of wood, distinguished by high density, during the scoring of the middle of the nail to hold the passage. It will make it easier to drive out large nails pre-drilling holes.

How to properly mount bars to plasterboard

If the rails must be attached to the wall, plasterboard, installation is performed as follows. Due to a certain fragility of the material, nails and self-tapping screws are not recommended. As a rule, for reliable fixation of bars on drywall, nylon or metal anchors are chosen. They are screwed into the sheet and secured with the help of self-pressing.

This is the easiest way. A more stable fastening can provide drop-down anchors. Due to their special design, additional focus on the reverse side is ensured. Such anchor is inserted into the holes and tighten with a screwdriver until they fall completely.

You can also use conventional plastic dowels. To do this, drill a hole, insert a dowel, secure the timber with a screw. The rolled dowel will be able to emphasize from the back of the sheet. To learn in detail about how to mount the bar to the wall, on the video below. As can be seen from the video, there is a sufficiently large number of ways to securely fasten the wooden structure.

brusportal.ru.

Fastening a bar to the wall

During the repair and redevelopment, the construction of a private house and different household buildings, when installing the design elements, furniture, household and other equipment, it often arises the need for fastening to the walls of a wooden bar. And below, we will look at how the timing of a bar must be held to the wall, providing many useful information:

	Fasteners and methods for fastening a bar.
	Features of the mounting of the bar to the concrete wall.
	Fastening a bar to a brick wall.
	How to fix the timber to the wall made of aerated concrete blocks.
	How to mount a timber to a wooden wall.
	Methods for fastening the wooden bar to the wall of plasterboard.
	Fastening a bar to the wall through the corners.
	Soft method for fastening a bar to the wall with the help of special P-shaped brackets.

Methods for fastening a bar to the wall and the main fasteners

The mounting of the bar to the wall is made in different ways. At the same time, the following parameters should be taken into account:

material and decoration of walls (aerated concrete, concrete, plastered, brick, drywall, etc.);

the weight and scale of the design, which the timber must hold.

From such parameters, it depends on exactly which tools and fasteners should be applied to secure the timber to the wall. In the rollery of fasteners can be applied:

screws;
nails;
self-tapping screw;
anchor bolts;
metal and plastic dowels;
P-shaped brackets;
metal corner;
wooden pin.

Let us give a few options so that the mounting of the bar to the wall passed correctly.

Secure the timber on the concrete wall

Before attaching a bar to such a wall, it is worth assessing its size, as well as the weight of the structure that it must hold. In that case, if the bar is small and the design is sufficiently light, you can use technology using a plaster or alabaste solution:

the screw of the required diameter is firmly wounded along the wire length (well, if it is copper);

prepared holes in the wall must be filled with plaster or alabastral solution;

quickly, without waiting for the setting of the solution, it is necessary to screw into the hole of the screw, marked with the wire;

after 10 minutes, when the solution grabbed, but finally not dry, carefully dismiss the screw;

after drying the solution with this screw, secure the timber.

For a more reliable fastening of powerful designs, this method is better suitable:

In places of the alleged attachment, it is necessary to drill holes (0.5-1 cm in diameter). To drill concrete walls, you need to use drills with diamond spraying, carbide drills or winners.

Attention! To make high-quality holes, it takes from time to time to cool the drill, immersing it in cold water for a few seconds.

Prepared Tubes made of wood having a suitable diameter must be impregnated with glue. Do not apply water-based glue, otherwise the plug is deformed and swell.

Drink plugs in drilled holes with hammer help.

Wait until the glue is dry.

The bar is attached to the wall with screws (they are screwed into the plugs).

In order for the mounting of the bar to the concrete wall, the most durable and reliable is better to use anchor bolts.

Fastening a bar to a brick wall

Fastening a bar to the wall of a brick has some features. Before attaching the bar, you need to do in the wall of the hole in the places where fasteners should be. Holes in the brick wall must be done with a drill or a drill with a winning, carbide or coated diamond spraying tip. In this case, it is not recommended to use the perforator, since the brick is a rather fragile building material. It is important to take into account the irregularity of brickwork, therefore, before mounting the bar to the brick wall, it is necessary to perform measurements and make pre-marking.

Minor designs are recommended to be fixed with plastic or metal dowels. Before mounting a bar to a brick wall on a dowel, it is worth measuring the weight of the design. The harder there will be a timber, that, accordingly, the fasteners will be longer. For the strength of the fastener before installing the dowel, the construction glue is stuffed.

The mounting frequency directly depends on the cross section of the bar: in the case of a section of 2.5 to 4 cm, the fastening elements should be placed at a distance of 0.6 m from each other, during section 4-6 cm. The distance between the attachments is 0.7-0.8 m. For fastening a bar to a wall of bricks in order to hold a weighty design, it is better to use anchor bolts - this method is considered the most reliable.

Fastening a wooden bar to the wall of aerated concrete blocks

The blocks made of aerated concrete - sufficiently malleable and soft building material, which simplifies the process of fastening the structure, but at the same time requires special attention to the execution of load calculations. Small in dimensions and weight cargo can be attached to the bolts, self-tapping screws (wedges are better fit) or screws with threads that are located along the entire length. Installation technology itself resembles a bar fixation to a brick wall.

If you need to attach something more weighty, such as hinged cabinets on the wall of aerated concrete, such as hinged cabinets. In this case, metal, plastic or nylon (plastic) dowels will be required.

If the mounting of a bar to the wall of aerated concrete blocks means building functions (for example, you planned to attach a veranda to the house), then you need to act according to the following scheme:

Armopoyasa on a gas-concrete wall with a certain frequency, studs are attached.
A wooden timber is fixed on the studs.
The fixation of the bar on the heel occurs with the help of a bolt and nut.

Only thus your design will be reliable. If you do not use Armopois and secure the timber directly to blocks, fastened as a result of high weight designs can be torn.

Fastening a bar to a wooden wall

There are several ways to fasten:

The easiest - the use of dowels, nails and screws. It is quite suitable for light designs. But the clogging of nails into the wooden wall has some nuances:

if the bar is strongly overwhelmed, the nail clogging can cause its cracking;
to provide a durable mount, you need to knock at least two nails at an angle to each other.

Create a reliable fastening of the "groove in the groove". On the bar and the supporting structure, the grooves that form a castle are pre-published. When the timber is installed, it is fixed with a tree with a pin from a tree or a nail installed in the prepared holes. This method is applied not only during finishing works, but also during construction (for example, in the construction of a roof of a wooden house).

Walls trimmed with plasterboard do not imply installation of heavy structures. How to secure the timber to the plasterboard wall? The possibility of fastening on the wall of plasterboard, such as hinged cabinets, should be provided yet at the stage of installation of plasterboard. In this case, on the carrier wall in a place where you intend to fasten the design, you need to fix a wooden bar, and at the end of the installation of plasterboard sheets, the design is attached to such a brue by means of self-tapping.

Small in a section and a lightweight bar can be fixed on a plasterboard wall using drop-down anchors or dowels. When screwdrivers in them are tightened with screwdriver fasteners, it is revealed and helps to hold the design. But in this case, we recommend to be extremely attentive to the load - too heavy design is capable of pulling fasteners, as a result of which a plasterboard leaf is broken.

Fastening a bar to the wall with the help of the corners

The method of fastening the bar to the wall through the corners is ideal for any type of walls. In this case, you need to choose corners only from durable metal - the fastener must withstand a double load. Before mounting the bar to the wall with the help of the corners, you need to mark up. Work is carried out in several stages:

With the help of screws on the wall, corners are attached. In this case, the attachments are not delayed so that the result is the ability to adjust the entire design.

A bar is inserted into the corner, which is fixed with the help of self-tapping screws. Fastenings are tightened to the maximum.

The corner is clamped with fasteners, the design is adjusted with the markup.

This method is perfectly suitable for fastening a bar to the wall of brick and in many other cases.

Soft method of fastening timber to the wall by means of P-shaped brackets

There is also another effective method for fastening a bar to the wall, which implies the use of metallic P-shaped brackets. The main advantage of this method is the simplicity and high speed of execution - it is possible to make it on its own without resorting to the help of professionals. There are technologies and disadvantages: the design is quite fragile, it is easy to damage, hitting it in Brus.

How to fix the timber to a brick or other wall using brackets. They are attached to the wall every 40 cm. At an altitude of 0.5 m from the floor, the frequency of fasteners changes: they can be placed 60 cm from each other.

The mounting of the bar to the wall can not be called the most difficult operation conducted during C.
# 1074; Sex of recommendations and existing rules.

Such manipulations are necessary when installing interior partitions, the installation of household appliances or the incarnation of design projects.

There are many ways to attach a wooden bar to the walls and each manipulation must be made using certain fasteners. Their choice depends on the quality of the base and the upcoming load.

Ways to perform work

Bar is used both to create a crate and furniture design, partitions

In modern construction, quality &.
It is a necessity. Such work is performed for:

strengthening structures;
installation of new frames;
structures partitions;
erection of light supplies;
assembly of designer furniture.

The timber is used to create a crate, frame when facing facade or inner walls, reliable fixation of furniture structures, household appliances or electronics. Qualitative work performed is possible.
1077; extinguishing or implement a long-planned redevelopment.

Fastening options

P-shaped suspension for fastening

To perform the work efficiently use several fastening methods:

hard;
soft.

The simplest recognized as soft, since for its implementation it will takes special brackets made from metal on the surface of the wall and having a P-shaped form.
1056; Assurance between them should not exceed 40 cm. It is necessary to securely secure the brackets themselves, and it is already possible to fix a wooden bar.

Before choosing the fastening method, it is necessary to accurately calculate the upcoming load and clarify the features of the base.

Self-tapping screws are used in hard mount

The hard method of attachment requires the use of a variety of fasteners, choose which depending on which material is made from what material. It can be:

dowel nails;
anchor bolts;
plastic or metal dowels.

The degree of complexity of performance depends on the quality of the walls, but all experts recommend securing a wooden bar just a hard way, as this will avoid further deformation of the collected frame.

In most cases, it becomes necessary to make the timing of a brick wall. It is important to know some features and nuances of the process to achieve the desired result.

Mounting order

Before mounting, make markup

The mounting of the bar to the brick wall is carried out with a hard way. To do this, the wizard will be needed:

building level;
drill;
wedge-shaped anchor;
screwdriver.

You can use the dowels of the system "quick installation", then enough level, drill, dowels and hammer. First you need to make marking on the surface of the wall, checking the vertical and horizontal level. Then it will be necessary to note on the bar itself the location of the fasteners that the frame will be mounted. The distance between them will be from 30 to 50 cm.

Now this markup should be repeated on the surface of the wall in the places of the upcoming attachment. Through holes drill in a bar, and then, apply a drilled bar to the wall, make holes in it. Then entered (driven) plastic dowels in them and screw screws or special nails are inserted for quick installation and driven by a hammer. For example of fastening a wooden board to a concrete wall, see this video:

Fastening a timber to a brick wall - the operation is not difficult, but for accurate execution requires the participation of two workers, one of which will hold the components of the design, and the second drill holes and fix the fasteners.

moyastena.ru.

In what cases is required to fasten the timber to the wall

Fastening a brickwork for brickwork is a fairly common construction operation, which may be required in the following cases:

When attaching various designs and interior elements.
When performing redevelopment.
In the process of insulation or facing the facade - in this case, you need to fasten the wooden crate to the brick wall.
For mounting visors and adjacent to the house of canopies.

Below in detail look at how the installation of the bar is performed.

Installation of a wooden crate

The process of fastening the bar

Instruments

Before attaching a wooden bar to a brick wall, you must prepare the following tools and materials:

Electric drill;
A hammer;
Building level;
Dowel type "Quick Installation".

Installation

Instructions for fastening a bar on the wall as follows:

First you need to find a position in which the timing attached to the wall should be.
Next, you need to perform holes under the dowel, which drill through the timber. At this stage, it is important not to shift the item, so it is better to perform work together together so that one person holds the bar, and the second - drilled holes.

The step between the fasteners depends on the cross section of the bar - which it is more, that, accordingly, less should be a step. For example, if the bar is attached to a cross section of 5x5 cm, the step should be about 20 - 30 cm.

In addition, depending on the cross section of the bar, the size of the fastener is selected. The maximum size is 8 × 120 mm, and the minimum is 6 × 40 mm. As for the choice of drill, it must correspond to the diameter and length of the dowel.

Then you need to perform the cencing of the holes to perform the installation of fasteners in vot. For this, the holes for several millimeters are drilled by a drill corresponding to the diameter of the fastener hats.

Insert plastic dowel in the hole

After that, plastic dowels are inserted into the openings with their own hands.
At the end of work in a dowel, nails are inserted and clogged with a hammer. As a result, the fasteners are expanding and firmly fixed in the wall, while holding the wooden part.

Note! The nails of the dowels have rosters under a crusade screwdriver, however, they are not intended to be screwed. The slots are made only with the goal of a simple dismantling of fasteners.

This is completed on this installation. It must be said that earlier, before the appearance of quick installation, the bar was attached to the walls with ordinary dowels. However, now this technology is not applicable, as it is much more complicated and takes more time.

An example of sealing beams

Installation of beams

Separately, it should be said about how the wooden beam on the brick wall is performed. This procedure is very responsible, since the beams usually take over a large load or even serve as overlapping. Therefore, sealing the beams in the wall (support) must comply with certain strength and reliability requirements.

So, the installation of beams is usually carried out in a special niche depth of at least 150 mm.

The process itself looks like this:

First of all, it is necessary to pull the ends of the beam at an angle of about 60 degrees.
Then the ends of the parts are impregnated with antiseptic fluid, and after drying are processed by a resin.
Next, the bottom of the niche is aligned and covered in several layers of rubberoid.
After that, the ends of the beam turn the toll and stacked so that the niche walls did not reach about 40 millimeters.
Then the space remained in the niche is filled with concrete.

This is completed in this process. It must be said that it is often an additional mounting of the beam by an anchor for giving stiffness. In this case, the anchor is installed in the process of laying the wall, and is located at a distance of about 12 cm from its outdoor surface.

Enclosure Scheme using anchor

The other end of the anchor should write to the room by 20 cm. At the same time, a hole corresponding to the diameter of the pin is performed for the installation of the beam. This installation method is applied in cases where it is necessary to obtain a fixed strength.

Jumper

It should be noted that there are a number of requirements to wooden jumpers:

Thickness must double the thickness of the brick.
Wood must be high quality, without cracks and bitch.
Wood moisture should be not more than 8%, otherwise the jumper may not be a jumper.

Note! Before laying the beam, it must be impregnated with antiseptic composition and antipiren. It prevents it from rotting and make fireproof.

In the photo - Wooden jumper

The laying process looks like this:

Initially, the platforms are prepared to which the jumper will be relying. They are cleaned of garbage and top are covered with several layers of rubberoid. It should be borne in mind that the jumper should go on a 20-25 cm wall.
A cement solution is applied and the jumper itself is applied.
Next, the position of the part is checked by a building level. If necessary, it should be corrected.
When erecting subsequent rows, the space between the jumper end and bricks is also filled with cement mortar.

Tip! Jumper is desirable to do from durable wood breeds, especially if the structure is massive. For example, an excellent option is an oak beam, though the price of this wood is quite high.

Here, perhaps, all the basic information on the mounting of the bar and other wooden parts for brick walls.

Output

Stop the wooden wall of the bar or lay the beam on it is easy. However, like any other construction operations, this work requires strict adherence to technology. It is from this that depends the strength and reliability of the installation (see also the article "Fastening the Balyasin to a wooden staircase: technical features of installation. Safety recommendations").

You can get acquainted with additional some information on the topic voiced above from this article.

http://rubankom.com.

legkoe-Delo.ru.

General principles

They, in general, do not differ in difficulty:

When installing any wooden structures on the foundation, a reliable waterproofing is needed on the border of two heterogeneous materials. Concrete with a violation of the foundation waterproofing is capable of ensuring the capillary sublicas of groundwater; Meanwhile, moisturizing is detrimental for wood;

Note: Different wood breeds in different ways tolerate long-term contact with moisture. That is why the lower strapping of the frame walls or the lower crowns of the church are trying to make from oak or larch - extremely resistant to rot and characterized by the highest mechanical strength.

Where there is a contact with water or wet air, wood is whether it is protected from dampness by impregnation with oil or oil compositions;
Antiseptic impregnation is required for all wooden building structures. It will not only protect the wood from the fungus, but also will scare the wood, and will reduce the flammability of the bar.

Methods of fastening

Lower strapping to the belt foundation

It is attached as follows:

The surface of the concrete is hydroizing. A minimum program - laying a pair of rubberoid layers; Ideally, it does not just be laid under the strapping bar, and glues to bitumen mastic;
In the bar of the strapping, grooves are selected for the connection in the trip. All connections must be on the attachment points to the foundation;
The bar is impregnated with an antiseptic and (ideally) protective waterproof impregnation. Usually in this role is the usual Olife;
The lower strapping is then sprinkled under the anchor bolts - at the points of connection of the segments of the bar and in direct areas in a step of no more than 1.5 meters. Holes are sprinkled under the washers and the nuts of the anchors;
Holes for anchors are placed and placed in concrete;
The last stage is the actual fastening. Anchors are driven into a concrete monolith through the holes in the bar, after which the nuts are tightened with the end key.

Wooden Scarlet to the Stated Foundation

Here the attachment algorithm is strongly reminiscent of the above; However, instead of anchor bolts, it is usually used in the erection of pillars in their masonry segments of a smooth or corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 14 mm.

The surface of the poles is hydroizing. The methods are similar to the above;
The bar selected holes for anchor;

Please note: in this case, the poles with anchors should have to all connections.

Scarlet is soaked with antiseptic soil and, if possible, a hydrophobic composition;
Then Ruralka is stacked on the poles, after which the side of the bar serves a part of the anchors is cut. Additional fixation of the frame to the columns, as a rule, does not apply: after the construction of the walls, it will be reliably pressed by their mass.

Mauerlat to Aropoyasu

In this case, the fastening of a wooden bar to a concrete wall is necessary in order to further encourage a solry system to it. Probably better concrete a description of the design.

As a rule, the walls of residential low-rise buildings are erected from lightweight materials with low thermal conductivity. Let us give a few examples:

All these materials have one common feature - low mechanical strength. They are able to provide sufficient carrying capacity due to the solid thickness of the walls; But it is impossible to securely secure the truck system or Mauerlat: any anchors will cut out the first strong impact of the wind.

The problem is solved by the fill at the top of the wall of the reinforced concrete armojois, which, in fact, becomes the basis for attaching Mauerlat.

Note: Armopois additionally increases the seismic resistance of the structure by tying adjacent walls. In areas with high seismicity, armoomas is replaced by the carrier armifarkas; Light materials are used only as filling walls.

The instruction on the installation of Mauerlat to Armopoyas is almost identical to the description of the bottom strapping on the belt foundation:

The surface of the reinforced concrete is hydroizing with bitumen mastic and / or rubberoid;
They are stacked by an antiseptic and olphoua timber, connected in the corners and splicing points in Polterev;
The timber is cracked in the corners and splicing points;
Holes are centered under the washers and the nuts of the anchors;
Under the anchors, holes in concrete are formed;
Anchors are driven, after which their nuts are pulled by a protadron key.

Door Box To Concrete Partition

How to attach the timber to the concrete wall, if we are talking about the door frame? This case has several differences from the previous ones:

Antiseptic impregnation and hydrophobization of the door frame are optional, since it will be operated in the dry air of the dwelling;
The waterproofing of the connection is also not needed: the humidity of the bar of the box and concrete does not differ;
Between the box and edges of the opening, as a rule, it remains a gap from 1 to 5-6 centimeters width.

The final fixation of the door in recent years is carried out by the only simple, fast and convenient way -lusantly fixed in the opening box is fought around the perimeter; After grapping the mounting foam, its excess is cut into a sharp knife.

Then the perimeter of the opening is sweeping with plaster, cement or acrylic putty - at least twice with intermediate grinding. The last stage is the fastening of platbands on both sides of the box or, with a significant depth of the opening, its trim plasterboard, wood, wall panels or laminate.

The main problem when installing the box is to ensure its reliable fixation to the gate: polyurethane foam when grasping expands and can jamble the door leaf.

Here are some relatively simple ways to securely secure the box of a bar with your own hands.

Use the mounting kit from the anchor screws with plastic dowels and steel linings per box. The linings are attracted to the bruus by ordinary self-drawing; Screws are screwed into the holes of the dowels breathed in the openings drilled in the opening. Then the heads of the screws are triggered in the pads of the lining and are clamped with a pair of nuts using a conventional horked key;

Instead of anchors, direct suspensions can be used for plasterboard ceilings. The suspension is attached to the wall, after which the beam fixes the box on both sides. Surplus perforated suspension is shaken; In the future, fasteners are closed by platbands;
Finally, the bar on which the door is hung can be fixed directly to concrete through a pair of wooden pads with ordinary anchor bolts, which will be hidden in the future. The second side of the box will fix the mounting foam after soaring. To prevent the door leafing to prevent the wooden clins inserted between it and the box.

Conclusion

We hope that the solutions we suggest will help the reader in the construction and repair of your own home. As usual, the attached video in this article will offer its attention to additional information. Successes!

rubankom.com.

Installation of timber for concrete base

How to fix bars on brick

After removing the bar and drill holes in the brick wall of the required depth and width. At the same time, the drill is recommended to keep directly and not to break out, otherwise you can open the brick. You can mount the timber to the brick wall using dowels and screws. Anchor can also be used for the brick wall.

Features of the installation of wooden plates to aerated concrete

In order for the design to withstand fairly loads, steel or plastic dowels are used.

Installation of a wooden house wall

If there is no long pressure on the design, you can use the mounting tape. Using nails for fastening wooden elements, you should adhere to a few simple rules. If nails have to clog in hard-to-reach places, you should use a bolt with a nut at the end. It is also necessary to choose the right length of nails.

How to properly mount bars to plasterboard

You can also use conventional plastic dowels. To do this, drill a hole, insert a dowel, secure the timber with a screw. The rolled dowel will be able to emphasize from the back of the sheet.

To learn in detail about how to mount the bar to the wall, on the video below. As can be seen from the video, there is a sufficiently large number of ways to securely fasten the wooden structure.

brusportal.ru.

Prepare a timber and drilled holes in it under the fastening element, you can proceed to the preparation of the wall on which the design will be attached.

To begin with, drieve a hole. We need a spiral-like drill of solid alloys, drill with a winning tip or with diamond spraying.
To preserve the service life, dried periodically cool it in water, in order to avoid overheating.
Then prepare a wooden tube, plunge it into glue, but not based on water so that the wood does not swell.
You can still make a lead plug on your own. To do this, take a sheet of lead, cutting a strip suitable for the hole, tweet into the tube.
Then the nail to protrude it and tighten the screw.

And you can also use monolith from alabastra or gypsum solution.

Although when it comes to concrete, whether it is a brick or solution, the anchor bolts are best suited. They will ensure the fastening strength.

In the concrete, screws are better screwed using dowels from durable plastic. Dowel is paved between concrete and self-tapping screw. It can also be lubricated it with glue.

For fastening a wooden bar to a brick wall, an anchor is also perfect, which, unlike nails and screws, can cope with any load.

For fastening more heavy structures, shelves or lockers, we need metal or plastic dowels.

For fastening full-scale materials it is better to use nylon dowels in the center of the subject. Hollow materials can be cling around the edges.

In this case, the perforated fastener method is common both in roofing works and in the furniture industry. Perforated elements are fixed with nails, self-draws or screws.

For drywall there are special attachments. Depending on the load on the timber, the type of fastening is chosen.

In order to fix the timber using a universal plastic dowel, you must perform the following steps:

drill a hole of the suitable diameter;
insert a dowel into the hole;
i fix the subject we need with the help of self-build;
the dowel is folded by the node, providing fixation from the reverse side.

The most reliable fastening is tested by time

When mounting a bar to a concrete wall, of course, the most reliable fastening will be fixed with anchor.

py-sm.com.

In what cases may be needed to fasten the board?

Faced the problem of installation of timber during work:

redevelopment and construction of new walls of wood;
installation of the door frame;
installation of mounted furniture;
an extension of the veranda;
construction of a visor over the entrance door;
warming at home.

Tips Masters

Preventive

So that the oil paint does not fall when storing and so that the film does not form on it, put on the surface of the paint of the CRC of the LOW from thick paper and "fill it with a thin layer of olifa.

"Polyethylene film that covers a balcony or a greenhouse predes from the cliff with the wind of the BECHEV, stretched from both sides with about between 10-15 cm."

"To work with the concrete mixture it was easier, it is usually added to clay, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoonful of washing powder at the rate of water bucket."

"In order for the screw whose head is hidden behind the obstacle, did not rotate along with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of the thread or thin wire on it and slightly pull the ends. Due to the friction, the screw is well held on the spot. The ends of the thread on the fracture layer can be trimmed."

"Cut the tweeter pilot can be without coofer. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut off by a chisel or an ax of a semi-permanent size of the required size, after which again connect the halves."

Wooden tubes for screws are scattered and falling out of the village. Do not rush cut a new plug. Tightly pick up in the wall of the Kapron from the old stocking. Heated hot-powered DEM Suitable diameter. Sell the hole for the screw. The ravine Capron will turn into a solid cork.

"A carpentry level is not difficult to turn into a theodolite, providing it with a sighting device from a slot and flies."

"In order for two lanes of the linoleum to lay jack, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film by putting it, under the basis of whether the noleum."

"In order for the nail into the right direction and not bent when scored in a deep hole or groove, it should be placed inside the tube, fixing with mint paper or plasticine."

Before driving a hole in a concrete wall, fasten a little below the paper sheet. Dust and fragments of concrete will not fly around the room.

"To cut off the pipe exactly at a right angle, we advise you to drink it. Take a smooth paper strip and screw it onto the pipe along the dipping line. The plane passing through the chrome paper will be strictly perpendicular to the pipe axis."

"Spindle logs or wooden beams will help an easy when an intact - a segment of a motorcycle or cycling chain, up to a hook-entered on one side and fixed to the late Tom from the other side."

"In order for one one to work in two-handed saw, we advise you to use a simple reception: rearrange the saw handle from the top position to the bottom."

Cut the slate piece of the required size can be saw, but it is better to pierce the hole with a frequency of 2-3 cm on the line of the alleged section of the nail with a frequency of 2-3 cm, after which the slate is broken on the support.

"The best way to stick the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt and drop only four drops in the corners of the tile. Prints on the dead."

The shaped holes in the manufacture of curly window cages are the most convenient to drink with a shovel with a sharpeble web.

"Production of stained glass - it's a long and difficult. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. For this, it takes thin specks or rods of the vine, stick to the glass sheet, and then paint the glass and covered with varnish."

"If there was no dowel at hand, it can be made of a piece of plastic tube. For this, the body of the shares of the punched knob can be approaching. Scuffing a piece of the desired length, make a long cancer, approximately half, and a dowel is ready."

"It is known how difficult it is to hang the door, working alone. But it is enough to shorten the lower pin for 2-3 mm and will work much easier."

"Very durable, awesome and sufficient waterproof putty turns out of the bustilat, mixed with any powder - scrap, plaster, cement!, Sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw in the ends of the chipboard screw, drill the hole slightly less than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with the" moment "with the glue (only not epoxy!), In a day, screw the screw. The plate is not resolve. However, the resulting connection can be installed only through the load. day. "

"Fix portraits, photos, paintings in a wooden frame with glass is more convenient not carnations, but with the help of stationery ko-bent bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressing open. Compared to nails, the danger split the thin frames up to a minimum."

"Wrap a screw in solid wood species is not so simple. If a chill is a screw for a screw for a screw, and it's screwed to rub it with soap, then after such an operation, work will go like oil."

In order to save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife, without unfolding the roll. To do this, it is necessary to pre-align the ends of the roll and a simple pencil to circle outside the edge boundary. Working a knife, the roll must be gradually rotated in the coagulation direction.

For carrying in the home conditions of large sheets of plywood, a stack of La or thin iron is conveniently use the wire with a telem with three hooks at the bottom and the handle above.

If you want to cut into the distance in the distance of a round stick, this work is easy to perform it with a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is selected so that the template slides freely on the stick.

It will be better to work with a hacksaw, if in the middle part of it, the height of the teeth is in the middle part of it.

If the front part of the machine is an arctic saw to attach the weight by weight of about a kilogram, then it will be easier to work. Cargo need to be removed, so that the saw can be broken and other works.

"The coating resembling wax can be obtained, painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To get the desired color, you need to make glue with water, tinted watercolor."

"Make a cover on the blade topora-easier simple. A piece of rubber tube is taken, it is cut along and put on the blade. From scabbing it protects the ring carved from the old car mobile camera."

"Do without clamps when gluing wooden frames will help the linen cord. You should wear four short loops on the corners of the frame and two long pulling the frames diagonally. Corners are registered with sticks that curly medium loops."

"How to make silence a violin floor? Between the flooring you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45 ° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, to score a wooden pin in it, lubricated with joinery glue, Cre on a chisel protruding end and sharp the surface of the floor."

"To facilitate the flooring of the floor covered with varnish or paint, swallow it with an iron through a wet cloth - and work one hundred is no easier."

"A small rotation on wood can be eliminated so: the affected wood is removed from a healthy layer, and then peeped with a 10 percent solution of formalin. After drying, the area is covered and painted."

"Door hinges will not creak if they are lubricant on time - this is a long-known rule. But you can do without lubricant. To do this, make a puck of plastic traffic jam and put it on a loop pin."

"Fabying the door latch because of the breakfast of the spring can be repaired as follows: the role of the spring will be successfully carried out by the riser of the rubber tube with a diameter of 15 mm or a piece of elastic re zea, installed between the rigle and the latch enclosures."

We offer a simple device for fixing the window frame in the open position: a wooden or plastic plate, in which a series of holes for the shatter are drilled. Plate Creates to the window box with a screw.

"Cut in a sheet material a large hole can be about a simple way: to hold the nail into vice (it will serve as a axis) and the fragment of the drill (it will be a cutter). The circumference is cut by the leaf of the sheet around the axis."

Reliable mounting of a bar and lag to concrete

Fastening a bar to the foundation of the house when erecting a church or lag to the concrete floor - typical examples facing the builder to bond of heterogeneous materials.

When building a wooden house in the form of a church or frame dwelling, a question often arises how to securely mount the timber to the concrete foundation, as the lower crowns to be copper with the surface of concrete as securely as possible so that you can not worry about the safety of the design. A wooden bar is attached to the painter with two methods known for a long time: it is a tough fixation and an overhead installation.

How to mount a timber to the foundation - Methods for fixing to concrete and metal pile

The embodiment of different building materials in one constructive node depends on their species and the desired degree of reliability. When building a wooden house, you need to know how to mount the timber to the foundation so that the box in the future could not change its spatial position, and the wood did not start covered with mold. The main techniques and methods are used by the builders for more than a dozen years, so it is safe to say that the time check has passed successfully. It is necessary to remind that the observance of fundamentally important stages in the work will make it possible to build capital, the durable structure in which not only grandchildren can live, but also great-grandchildren.

Fixation methods

hard - fastening is made by anchors, studs, bolts and clamps;
the invoice - implies the retention of the lower crown under its own weight of the advanced structure.

Of course, the first option is more reliable and recognized as masters as more acceptable, but in practice the second laying method is often used. Such a choice is associated primarily with the facilitated installation of installation, as there is no need to drive the holes or bookmark anchors, as well as in tightening the fasteners.

Experts recommend hard to mount the timber to the foundation, especially if the underground construction is finely brewed, and the soil is a bunched and water-saturated. As a result of the freezing, such soil swells, which leads to the appearance of pushing loads. With warming, the soil can seek, fascinating the foundation. These phenomena affect, of course, on certain moves. If a wooden strapping does not have a rigid fastening, then the structure may well move from the reference part with additional adverse conditions. At best, deformation will appear, and at worst - there will be a complete destruction of the box at home.

The method of fixing a wooden bar largely depends on the type of foundation.

During the construction of houses, several options for the underground unit of the building are used:

metal or reinforced concrete piles;
monolithic ribbons;
prefabricated concrete blocks;
wall-to-wood structures;
separately located pillars;
plates.

The method of laying a bar must be selected taking into account the characteristics of a foundation. Works should be responsible, realizing that it will be almost impossible to correct defects. Do not fully disassemble the house.

Concrete Base Brous Fastening

The disadvantage of prefabricated and monolithic foundations, as well as concrete woodworks, is the possible irregularity of their surface, which is in the presence of drops in height, recesses, etc. This problem for stacked above the bar can become critical, therefore it should be equated at the preparatory stage. The upper cut of a concrete foundation or woodwork is equalized by applying a cement mortar on it. The horizontal of the fill, at the same time, be checked with a construction or laser level. Further on the concrete basis in the places of docking with a bar in two or three layers laid waterproofing, and only then mounted the first crown of the stone house or the strapping of the frame structure.

The distinction of the lower row from the above-being elements is the longer size of the lumber section, which makes it possible to assume the load from the ground part of the structure and more effectively distribute them to the underground construction. To achieve the clarity of the spatial arrangement of the crown and the geometric correctness of its corners will help the preliminary layout and markup of BRUSEV at the place. They are placed in the project position, bonding temporary disconsees. At this stage, the accommodation points of the anchor bolts and, accordingly, holes in the strapping elements are determined. If the fastening pins are already slainer and stick out of the foundation, then under the timber should be placed the same size columns.

The pitch of the anchors is selected within the half-meter, and the length of the rods is depending on the thickness of the bar and the size of the attachment in the concrete layer. At the same time, take into account the moment that the highest point of anchor should not be at the top plane of the first crown, so that when laying the following figures, the cut did not have to deal with unnecessary interference. Each individual element of the wooden strapping must have at least two rigidly fixed points to avoid any shifts.

After marking places of attachment, it is embarrassing in the wood of holes. First, they use a drilling crown, drowning at about a third of the lumber height. Then the recess is cleaned with the chisel, after which they make a small through hole with a drill. Its diameter should be 1.5-2 mm wider than the corresponding size of the anchor bolt.

There are two main ways that determine how to mount the timber to the foundation:

the first - anchors are already in the body of concrete;
the second - fasteners are installed together with the installation of a wooden strapping.

Before laying a bar, it is necessary to carefully treat with antiseptic impregnation, saving wood from moisture and biodegradation, as well as antipiren, protecting a tree from instantaneous lighting in case of fire.

At the last stage, check the horizontal of the first crown and the clarity of the geometry of the corners. With small skews under the flaw, it is allowed to put small planks, but it is extremely undesirable, as it leads to the appearance of the gaps.

Experienced masters advised to use self-discharge anchors. With their help, work is greatly simplified, and the installation time is reduced. Anchor technology is applied to all types of concrete foundations, including woodworked.

Fastening a bar to metallic pile

Nowadays, a large number of private developers prefer as a foundation for small buildings, including for skew houses, use screw piles. Their benefits are indisputable, and in some cases, they simply not find a worthy alternative. The mounting of the bar is performed here in other, simpler technology.

After mounting the piles, the ledges are aligned in height, after which metal plates are welduated. They can be flat and have a width that does not go beyond timber. In this case, the fasteners are screwed from the bottom of the crown. Another option is a plate in the form of an inverted literary "P" or, simply speaking, tray. It is clearly in size, without indents, lumber is inserted and fixed with self-draws on both sides.

When working with the metal, the anti-corrosion processing of welded joints and plates will be required. In addition, you do not need to forget about waterproofing and impregnation of wood. The horizontal of the laid strapping crown is mandatoryly verified by the level.

Fastening a bar to concrete is a fairly common question that occurs in the process of building a country house with their own hands.

The sequence of such work itself does not represent a special complexity, but choose technologically correct fasteners for a bar to concrete - this is a task that requires detailed consideration.

Types of structures and attachment methods

Wood is a rather popular and affordable building material. A relatively low price, low weight, high thermal insulation qualities make a wooden bar with the most popular element in a set of components for the construction of their own home.

How to mount the timber to concrete, which methods should be applied during the installation of various types of designs will be discussed in detail in this publication, and in addition to text content, we watch the video in this article.

Topic - how and how to mount the timber to concrete, consider on practical examples, it is:

construction of a log cabin;
construction framework;
montage Maurolala roofing;
fastening the lag to the concrete floor;
fastening the bar to the concrete wall when furnacely appliances for facing materials.

Installing the lower crown

How to fix the bar to the concrete wall of the foundation during the construction of a log cabin?

The basis for the walls is a bustling crown, who is rigidly attached or freely lying on a concrete foundation.

The rigid fastener implies reliable fixation of the lower crown to the base of the belt basement.

For this use several ways, it is:

with the help of anchor studs;
anchor bolts;
metal corners;

Anchor studs are mounted at the moment of installation of the reinforcement frame of the foundation. The location and the distance between them are calculated at the stage of designing the building.

Then in the bar, in accordance with the project and with an error of no more than 1 mm, drill holes. The diameter of the hole below corresponds to the size of the stud, and the upper slightly larger diameter of the washer.

After laying horizontal waterproofing, the prepared timber dress up on the studs and smoothly (without skew) is placed on the surface of the foundation.

When fixing the bar with anchor bolts, a bustling crown on the base and a winning drill (usually Ø 12 mm) on the center line of the logs drilled holes. The distance between them should be 70-150 mm. When all the holes are made, check the accuracy of the installation, insert and tighten the bolts.

In terms of reliability, these two methods are the most priorities. However, with such fastening methods, there is no possibility of replacing logs, since the installed studs and bolts cannot be dismantled during the operation of the building.

Therefore, among the developers, the last option is most popular when the bustling crown is simply laid on the base. The whole design is fixed due to the total weight of the building.

For insurance and, if necessary, the lower bar can be strengthened using metal corners installed on the inside of the structure.

Fastening the bearing frame of frame design

When building a frame house on a ribbon foundation, the fastening of a bar (Lenzny) is performed on the same technology as during the construction of a log (anchor, studs).

But how to attach a bar to concrete in the case of a columnar foundation?

The specificity of such structures is such that separate columns on top must be interconnected with a metal, concrete or wooden painter. To which the entire main construction of the house is then attached.

In our case, consider the fastening of a wooden woodwork.

The bar can be mounted in two ways:

The first way, instruction on laying Lenznya:

When filling the foundation in the heads of the columns in the center make reinforcements of reinforcement.
The places of contact with the reinforcement note on top of it.
Remove the timber and the holes are drilled at these points, the diameter of which will be equal to the diameter of the rod. The rod should be tightly into the hole, without a backlash.
Then collect the design. The litter is placed on protruding rods and a slight tapping of the bar is planted until it stops on a concrete base.
The protruding ends of the reinforcement are cut off by the "grinder" and continue to install the crate for the floor of the ground floor.

Second way - This is the fastening of bars with special anchors. In this case, in the finished pillars in the center the holes are drilled corresponding to the diameter of the anchor rod.

Install anchor. Put the bars and side by self-drawing, taking into account the horizontal level of the whole structure, fix the scarlet to the anchor bracket.

Fastening the roof

A wooden timber stacked around the perimeter of the walls of the building, and an employee for fastening the roof of the structure is called Mauerlat.

The mounting of Mauerlata roof can be carried out in several ways, this is:

with steel wire;
using metal spills.

All listed methods provide a device at the upper boundary of the bearing walls of a concrete monolithic belt.

In the process of installing the reinforcement frame, the studs are connected to the welding with the reinforcement rods, and the steel wire clamps are coated behind the top row of reinforcement and bind knitted wire.

The ends of the clamps from steel wire leaving the monolithic belt must be higher by 0.5 m thick laid on a concrete of a bar. Studs - above 3-4 cm.

Fastening Lag.

On reinforced concrete ceilings, it is recommended to use a timing of 30x80 mm in a cross section. It is installed with an interval of 400-500 mm through soft fiber pads with a mandatory compaction of the mounting foam. The mounting of the bar is performed using metal anchors.

Sequence of work:

on the floor we settle the polyethylene film, and put the timber (parallel to the window to the window) throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe room according to the standards mentioned above;

using the perforator and drill the desired diameter, through the timber in concrete, the required number of holes are drilled along the entire length of the lags;

insert the anchor's metal sleeve of the anchor and screw the bolt into it;
then with the help of gaskets from the fiberboard, adjust (up, down) horizontal lag level;
in this way, we set all other elements;

after checking the total floor level, we finally tighten the bolts of anchors;
the resulting clearance between the timber and the base of the floor fill the mounting foam.

Tips: It is allowed to perform installation work without fastening elements only in the case of an ideal screed with a condition for the application of a cutting board coating with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

Device shabby walls

For the device of the crate for equipment of ventilated facades or cladding of inner walls, special metal profiles are provided with plasterboard or plastic panels.

But in some cases, if the temperature conditions of the region and the permissible humidity of the exploited rooms are allowed, wooden bars can be applied as guides.

Therefore, how to mount the bar to the concrete wall, consider below.

Depending on the weight of the cladding and the area of \u200b\u200bthe coating under the crate, the bar is used with dimensions: 20x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 50x50 mm.

For fastening such a bar, metal anchors or a dowel-nail with plastic plugs are used (see photo).

The crate device is better to perform with a partner. Bar on the walls, depending on the material, can be mounted as a horizontal (plastic panel) and vertically (drywall plates).

The principle of installation is the same as when laying Lag:

Rake apply to the wall.
Perforator drills a hole.
Insert anchor or dowel-nail.
With the help of a rack level and gaskets from the fiberboard, we adjust the correct installation.
Tighten the anchor or score a dowel-nail until it stops the bar in the base.
Mount the panel.

In this article, the topic was considered in detail - how to mount the bar to concrete. We hope that this publication was useful for you, watch the video, leave comments.

How to mount the timber to concrete. Wooden woodcock to a bar foundation. Mauerlat to Aropoyasa. Door Box To Concrete Partition

The theme of this article is the fastening of a bar to concrete. We will analyze the methods of combining wood with reinforced concrete monolithic structures for different construction stages - when fastening the bottom strapping of walls to the belt foundation, scolding to the column supports, Maurelant mounting and installation of the door frame.

The combination of heterogeneous materials is a frequent task in construction.

General principles

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They, in general, do not differ in difficulty:

When installing any wooden structures on the foundation, a reliable waterproofing is needed on the border of two heterogeneous materials. Concrete with a violation of the foundation waterproofing is capable of ensuring the capillary sublicas of groundwater; Meanwhile, moisturizing is detrimental for wood;

Note: Different wood breeds in different ways tolerate long-term contact with moisture. That is why the lower strapping of the frame walls or the lower crowns of the church are trying to make from oak or larch - extremely resistant to rot and characterized by the highest mechanical strength.

Where there is a contact with water or wet air, wood is whether it is protected from dampness by impregnation with oil or oil compositions;
Antiseptic impregnation is required for all wooden building structures. It will not only protect the wood from the fungus, but also will scare the wood, and will reduce the flammability of the bar.

Antiseptic for wood from Nomid.

Methods of fastening

Lower strapping to the belt foundation

It is attached as follows:

The surface of the concrete is hydroizing. A minimum program - laying a pair of rubberoid layers; Ideally, it does not just be laid under the strapping bar, and glues to bitumen mastic;
In the bar of the strapping, grooves are selected for the connection in the trip. All connections must be on the attachment points to the foundation;
The bar is impregnated with an antiseptic and (ideally) protective waterproof impregnation. Usually in this role is the usual Olife;
The lower strapping is then sprinkled under the anchor bolts - at the points of connection of the segments of the bar and in direct areas in a step of no more than 1.5 meters. Holes are sprinkled under the washers and the nuts of the anchors;
Holes for anchors are placed and placed in concrete;
The last stage is the actual fastening. Anchors are driven into a concrete monolith through the holes in the bar, after which the nuts are tightened with the end key.

Anchor attracts a bar to a concrete base.

Wooden Scarlet to the Stated Foundation

The surface of the poles is hydroizing. The methods are similar to the above;
The bar selected holes for anchor;

Please note: in this case, the poles with anchors should have to all connections.

Scarlet is soaked with antiseptic soil and, if possible, a hydrophobic composition;
Then Ruralka is stacked on the poles, after which the side of the bar serves a part of the anchors is cut. Additional fixation of the frame to the columns, as a rule, does not apply: after the construction of the walls, it will be reliably pressed by their mass.

The anchors laid in the masonry prevent the horizontal displacement of the screaming.

Mauerlat to Aropoyasu

In this case, the fastening of a wooden bar to a concrete wall is necessary in order to further encourage a solry system to it. Probably better concrete a description of the design.

As a rule, the walls of residential low-rise buildings are erected from lightweight materials with low thermal conductivity. Let us give a few examples:

The problem is solved by the fill at the top of the wall of the reinforced concrete armojois, which, in fact, becomes the basis for attaching Mauerlat.

Pouring armojois on aerated concrete walls.

Note: Armopois additionally increases the seismic resistance of the structure by tying adjacent walls. In areas with high seismicity, armoomas is replaced by the carrier armifarkas; Light materials are used only as filling walls.

The instruction on the installation of Mauerlat to Armopoyas is almost identical to the description of the bottom strapping on the belt foundation:

The surface of the reinforced concrete is hydroizing with bitumen mastic and / or rubberoid;
They are stacked by an antiseptic and olphoua timber, connected in the corners and splicing points in Polterev;
The timber is cracked in the corners and splicing points;
Holes are centered under the washers and the nuts of the anchors;
Under the anchors, holes in concrete are formed;
Anchors are driven, after which their nuts are pulled by a protadron key.

In the photo - the moment of attachment of the Mauerlalate by anchors.

Door Box To Concrete Partition

How to attach the timber to the concrete wall, if we are talking about the door frame? This case has several differences from the previous ones:

Antiseptic impregnation and hydrophobization of the door frame are optional, since it will be operated in the dry air of the dwelling;
The waterproofing of the connection is also not needed: the humidity of the bar of the box and concrete does not differ;
Between the box and edges of the opening, as a rule, it remains a gap from 1 to 5-6 centimeters width.

Mounting foam will fill the clearance and fix the door frame.

The main problem when installing the box is to ensure its reliable fixation to the gate: polyurethane foam when grasping expands and can jamble the door leaf.

Here are some relatively simple ways to securely secure the box of a bar with your own hands.

Use the mounting kit from the anchor screws with plastic dowels and steel linings per box. The linings are attracted to the bruus by ordinary self-drawing; Screws are screwed into the holes of the dowels breathed in the openings drilled in the opening. Then the heads of the screws are triggered in the pads of the lining and are clamped with a pair of nuts using a conventional horked key;

SMS mounting kit K-1. Price - 380 rubles.

Instead of anchors, direct suspensions can be used for plasterboard ceilings. The suspension is attached to the wall, after which the beam fixes the box on both sides. Surplus perforated suspension is shaken; In the future, fasteners are closed by platbands;
Finally, the bar on which the door is hung can be fixed directly to concrete through a pair of wooden pads with ordinary anchor bolts, which will be hidden in the future. The second side of the box will fix the mounting foam after soaring. To prevent the door leafing to prevent the wooden clins inserted between it and the box.

The loops will hide the nuts anchors.

Conclusion

Reliable mounting of a bar and lag to concrete

Even a person far from construction should understand that in the process of the construction of such a complex structure, as a house, it is often necessary to combine various building materials with their physical indicators. Different properties sometimes make them difficult among themselves, especially when it is required to secure such various building materials such as wood and concrete.

Fastening diagram of timber and lag to concrete.

Fastening a bar to the foundation of the house when erecting a church or lag to the concrete floor - typical examples facing the builder to bond of heterogeneous materials.

Consider the question of possible options for reliable mounting of the bar to the concrete foundation, and then lag to the similar floor.

General fixation of timber

Fastening a church to a concrete foundation.

As follows from the very name, the essence of the first method is to reliably fix the wooden bar to the concrete base with the help of several special foundation bolts or steel clamps. If you decide to use bolts, then this method of fastening will be constant and unintended, and the fastening with the help of clamps implies the ability to disassemble the entire design if necessary.
The overlay mount consists in a simple installation of the bar on top of the frame without any fixation. On the one hand, the timing is rendered and mobile, but due to its weight, it is securely installed and without additional attachment.

It is clear that the first option is much more reliable and gives more guarantees of the reliability of fastening the bar to the basement concrete. But the second option is more common. This is due to the smaller complexity of installation and, accordingly, less cost. And quite a significant mass of the entire structure gives sufficient reliability of the fastening with the base and stillness of the lower crown of the cut.

You will have to choose one option that is suitable for your case. If there are no strong winds in your area, the total mass of the house will be quite essential, and the builders are confident in the reliability of the overhead option, then it may be worth choosing a cheaper option.

Hard fixing timber to the foundation

Fastening the first timber to the foundation occurs with the help of anchor bolts and only after complete hardening of the foundation.

To carry out the rigid fastening of a bar to such common types of foundations, such as slab or tape, it is necessary to hold a number of preparatory activities. They can be implemented at the stage of the basis of the base or immediately after the end of the fill or installation. They are primarily in the fact that even at the stage of filling of concrete in the framework of the base (concrete ribbon or slab), they are introducing special foundation bolts with studs up. It is to these hairpins that will be attached to a future design. The fastener process itself will be to embed a bar in advance by the prepared hole on the hairpin and screw it with a locknut. A tightly twisted pair of pin-knitting pin surely attaches a bar to the surface of the woodwok.

Consider the process on the example of a slab foundation in more detail and steps:

Types of bruse connection.

So, after graduating from the fill of the foundation into the crude mass of concrete, the most foundative bolts are immersed with studs up, and the bases down (they can be conical shape or simply bent). The distance between the bolts should be at least half a meter, and each separate wooden element should be fastened at least two points of fixation.
The next step is prepared a timber. Preparation consists in drilling holes for foundation bolts. Here you need to be attentive when measuring.
If you have not yet checked the scattering screaming, then it's time to do it. It is necessary to check the horizontal and eliminate all possible defects - recesses to pour with a solution, convexity to rush. Mounting the timber can only be fixed to a smooth surface of concrete.
At the fourth stage, it is necessary to put waterproofing, in most cases it is a simple ruberoid. Stop the timber directly to the concrete is impossible.
The prepared wooden structures are then stacked on the runneroid. The bars should lie so that all the studs from the bolts enter the drilled holes.
How to connect angles - to solve you. You can connect to the paw or in the bowl. If you want to give greater reliability of the connection, then use metal corners to fasten the bars, which are attached to them with self-tapping screws.
At the last stage, we begin twist the design using the counterparts by putting a pre-washer under them. In order to avoid the design of the design, the nuts spin the little and parallel. That is, we make several revolutions of one nut, then go to the second and do and there are the same turns there.

This process is described for a slab base. To mount the timber to the belt foundation, it is necessary to do all the same operations, except for the installation of foundation bolts.

Pile foundation and fastening to it

Brous fastening diagram to pile foundation.

In some locals, the use of a slab or tape foundation is difficult, only pile or screw options for the foundation of the future house are suitable there. Therefore, the issue of fastening to them a bar is relevant for many homeowners. Here the mount passes through a slightly different scheme. After installing piles to their upper part, special P-shaped steel headings are attached. Between the steel plates, the beam of the bar is stacked, and then through the holes in these plates, the timber is fastened with self-tapping screws or studs. If you want to use the hairpins, then you will have to drill a bar. It will not give a better bond compared to self-drawing, but the trouble will deliver much more. So it is recommended to choose exactly the last fastening option. Let's analyze and this type of fastening step by step:

Stripping scheme for fasteners of a strapping bar.

Previously, it is necessary to prepare the bars by cutting them on the available parameters. Brussia must be used with a square cross section.
The second stage is the installation of the gloves. For this, the prepared segments of the bar are laying on piles, and steel corners-brackets are inserted. Having thus thus the width of the bar, the gloves are fastening with piles with welding. After that, welded corners are used as lighthouses for fastening the remaining gloves. Bar at this time can already be removed.
In this form of attachment, it is also necessary to pave waterproofing between the steel tips and the timber tree. The most common type of isolation is the usual rubberoid. Tree contact with concrete and steel unacceptable.
It remains only to lay the prepared beams, covering them in the corners between themselves laying in the paw, in the bowl or putting them on the spikes.
All preparation is complete, it is possible to fasten the lower log log cabin or a timing of a light frame house with steel headplains. As already mentioned, you can be coppped with studs (then you will have to drill holes in the tree) or self-draws. It is recommended to choose the last option, since the first does not give any advantages, and the hassle will add.

Installing a bar without tight fixation runs according to the following scheme. For this, the pile is attached not to the P-shaped, and T-shaped steel screw.

Fastening the lag to the concrete floor

Fastening diagram Lag to the concrete floor.

The second widespread case of fastening a wooden bar to a concrete surface is the installation of a lag on the floor concrete. Modern floor equipment techniques are very diverse: there are various insulating materials, warm floors, a variety of solutions for alignment and extraction of the sex surface, etc.

But today the option with the installation of ordinary wooden lags is quite relevant for both homes and apartments. This method of laying floors is used, as a rule, in homes where there are no problems with the height of the ceilings, but at the same time I would like to save on expensive insulating materials.

The process of fastening Lag.

Floor circuit with lags.

Bashed lags for the concrete floor is quite simple, for this you only need to stock up three things - material, tools and patience. Such work can be easily conducted independently, without specialists and assistants. Options for fastening wooden lags to concrete are quite numerous, moreover, it is even possible to refuse all the fastening of the lag to the concrete surface. In this case, the strength of the structure gives reliable fastening of the lag with sex boards, laminate or other sex coating. But this technique is full of risks of the random shift of the boards relative to the bar, that is, all sexual coating may be overwhelmed due to the slightest inattention. Therefore, it is better not to risk and adhere to the classics, which lies in the attachment of the lag to the concrete with the help of self-tapping screws or other fasteners.

Prepare all the necessary materials and tools, proceed to the installation of lag bars:

Mounting scheme of lag bars.

First of all, you need to put waterproofing on a concrete floor, it is usually either rubberoid or plastic film. Shakes thoroughly glue with the help of construction tape so that there is not a single gap.
After that, we install lags. Two of them are placed along the opposite walls, and the rest are connected to each other. The distance between the transverse beams is established depending on many factors, but mostly it is associated with the strength of the sexual coating and how confidently it will lie on the lags without faster. The stronger the floor material, the shorter the step between the bars. In general, the distance hesitates from 50 to 80 cm.
Lags can be connected to the joint in the joint, if large loads do not assume. Otherwise, special cuts are made on the ends of the lag for a more dense connection between them.
After laying two main lags, the horizon is measured using the level and lines and the same altitude is measured. For the convenience of laying the transverse lag, stretch the cord at the place of the future installation of the bar.
It's time to go to actually fastening the lag to the concrete floor. For this and in the lag itself, symmetric holes are drilled in the concrete floor. An either a dowel of polypropylene plastic is inserted into the hole of the concrete floor, or the shut-off part of the steel anchor. Lugges with concrete or self-draws or bolts are bonded. For reliable fastening of lags with a floor, 2-3 anchors are enough. Self-tapping screws are required by one for about every 40-80 cm.
In some cases, do not do without special pads from plywood, thin boards or chipboard. They are inserted between lags and insulating material to align the design. The purpose of these gaskets is the fight against labies, and therefore, with the screensies of future floors. Of course, such gaskets are an indicator of poor-quality work of the one who poured the floor with concrete, because ideally he should be completely even, but sometimes such small flaws still happen even from recognized masters. Especially difficult cases may require even cutting into a bruse of the excavation under the convex irregularity of the floor.

The correct installation of the lag will help avoid troubles such as crersion or uneven floors.

Already after laying all the lag between them, the selected in advance of the heat insulating material is lined. On top of the lag and before installing the floors, another waterproofing layer is littered. This allows you to make the floor and durable, and quite warm, without spending unnecessary means. That is, by the criterion of price-quality it is one of the best options for the construction of an effective sex. It is a simple scheme for fastening the lag to the concrete surface makes it possible to achieve such good results.

In all this, you can achieve yourself, the technology of fastening the bar to the basement concrete and the lag to concrete surfaces does not differ in difficulty, it is also available to one person. But when preparing for such work, it should not be saved on materials, it is better to choose the laws for you and the bars, the exactly necessary cross section and quality. Do not save on tools, especially since the most difficult of them will most likely, the perforator, the rest of the materials of the materials is consumable (self-tapping screw, bolts, anchor attachments, waterproofing materials, etc.).

The mounting of a bar to the wall cannot be called the most difficult operation conducted during construction and repair work, but it requires care and accurate compliance with all recommendations and existing rules.

Such manipulations are necessary when installing interior partitions, the installation of household appliances or the incarnation of design projects.

There are many ways to attach a wooden bar to the walls and each manipulation must be made using certain fasteners. Their choice depends on the quality of the base and the upcoming load.

Ways to perform work

Bar is used both to create a crate and furniture design, partitions

In modern construction, high-quality fastening of a wooden bar to the walls, erected from various materials, is often a necessity. Such work is performed for:

strengthening structures;
installation of new frames;
facilities;
erection of light supplies;
assembly of designer furniture.

The timber is used to create, frame with facade or reliable fixation of furniture designs, household appliances or electronics. Qualitatively performed work make it possible to create a design capable of withstanding increased loads, decorate the room or exercise a long-time redevelopment.

Fastening options

P-shaped suspension for fastening

To perform the work efficiently use several fastening methods:

hard;
soft.

The simplest recognized as soft, since for its implementation it will takes special brackets made from metal on the surface of the wall and having a P-shaped form. The distance between them should not exceed 40 cm. It is necessary to securely fasten the brackets themselves, and it can already be fixed with a wooden bar.

Before choosing the fastening method, it is necessary to accurately calculate the upcoming load and clarify the features of the base.

Self-tapping screws are used in hard mount

The hard method of attachment requires the use of a variety of fasteners, choose which depending on which material is made from what material. It can be:

dowel nails;
bolts;
plastic or metal dowels.

The degree of complexity of work depends on the quality of the walls, but all experts recommend to fix it with a hard way, as this will avoid further deformation of the collected frame.

In most cases, it becomes necessary to make the timing of a brick wall. It is important to know some features and nuances of the process to achieve the desired result.

Mounting order

Before mounting, make markup

The mounting of the bar to the brick wall is carried out with a hard way. To do this, the wizard will be needed:

building level;
drill;
wedge-shaped anchor;
screwdriver.

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