Plasterboard ceilings are a simple and economical way to transform an apartment. Reliability of a design is checked up by long-term experience. Advantages, as the same experience shows, these ceilings have a lot. Of great importance is the fact that making plasterboard ceilings is simple, and a non-professional can cope with the task. The aesthetic possibilities here are simply endless. You can create a unique design by boldly using different lighting options and curvilinear shapes.
Preparations should begin with the creation of a project. Specify how many levels the ceiling will have. It depends on it . In advance, it is necessary to think over the layout of lighting fixtures and additional lighting. It may be necessary to ditch the ceiling and walls to lay the wiring. Only after that you can draw up a project, make calculations and go to the store for materials.
Tools
It won't work without reliable tools. It depends on them and the time of work. Before purchasing materials, check that you have all the tools. It is better to make a list right away and buy everything in advance.
From the little things you will need: marker, construction pencil, indicator screwdriver, drills of different diameters, jigsaw files, bits, masking tape, electrical tape and paint rollers.
materials
Drywall can have a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. For the ceiling, it is better to buy sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. But if there is one in the project, 6.5 mm drywall will be the best for them. If you purchase thicker sheets, you need to strengthen the frame. Your ceiling will be heavy, which means it needs more profiles and fixtures.
Important.
Drywall suitable for living quarters with GKL marking.
Needed for kitchen or bathroom moisture resistant material.
There are two types of profiles:
- Guide (PN) dimensions 27 x 27 mm. This profile is attached around the perimeter of the room.
- Ceiling (PP) with dimensions of 56 x 27 or 60 x 27 mm. Drywall sheets are attached directly to this profile.
Profiles used for the ceiling:
ceiling CD and UD rail
U-shaped suspensions are used to fasten ceiling profiles to the draft ceiling. You can use other suspensions, but U-shaped ones are the most reliable. For the ceiling, it is better to take plastic dowels and screws. If the ceiling is concrete, dowels are needed for heavy metal structures. Self-tapping screws are used to fasten drywall. At the joints of the profiles, a connector (crab) is used.
At the final stages, putty is needed for processing seams and paint.
Ceiling installation steps
Working with drywall involves a lot of dust. If you do not intend to change the wallpaper, they need to be covered with a film. It is better to take out the furniture, in extreme cases, wrap it tightly with a film. The draft ceiling must be plastered and primed. Pieces of plaster falling on the false ceiling can damage it. All wiring has already been done to the lighting installation areas.
1. Measurements and marking
Ceiling height depends on the type of lighting fixtures. If a chandelier is supposed, 5 cm is enough. About 10 cm of free space is needed for this. If you plan to hide communications behind the ceiling, the distance can be up to 40 cm.
On the walls under the ceiling it is necessary to apply a perfectly even horizontal line. Along this line you will attach the guide profile. To determine this line, you need a laser level. You can use a spirit level or a rule. The line must close exactly at the point from which it began. The smallest shifts are not allowed. In the corners, the level must be placed both on the surface of the walls and in the corners of the spacer. All lines are drawn with a construction pencil.
Horizontal markings around the perimeter - controlled by a level, then the mounting points of the guides are marked
After completing the horizontal markings, we proceed to the ceiling. The attachment points of the suspensions are marked and lines are drawn along which the ceiling profile will be mounted. As a result, you should get a grid with squares, the side of which is 60 cm. You need to start from the center of the room. Near the walls, most likely, squares will not work. Your task is to make the cell sizes symmetrical near each wall.
2. Mounting the frame
The standard length of the guide profile is 3 m. A minimum of 4 dowel-nails must be used to fasten one element. It is desirable to glue the profile at the point of contact with the wall with sealing tape. The profile must pass clearly along the drawn markings, the elements should fit snugly against each other. Installation is best done in the classical way, in which the dowel is first screwed in, and then a screw is installed in it.
The next stage is fastening with dowel-nails to the draft ceiling of U-shaped suspensions. The interval between them along one line should be 40-70 cm. At the joints of the profiles, suspensions are installed on both sides. The ends of the suspension must be bent as much as possible. During the fastening process, they should not bend, otherwise the profile cannot be fixed evenly.
The ceiling profile must be 1 cm shorter than the width of the ceiling. If your room is less than 3 m wide (standard profile length), cut off the excess with metal shears. If the room has a large width, you will have to connect two profiles. To do this, you need to buy special fasteners.
Important! If you are building up a ceiling profile, the joints on two adjacent ones should not be on the same line. Additionally, the joints are fixed with suspensions.
The sequence of installation of ceiling profiles:
- You need to start from the corners of the room. The partner takes the rule and sets it in a diagonal corner. The other end of the rule will support the profile so it doesn't sag. So your partner will maintain the profile exactly along the line of the guides. In the meantime, you insert the profile into the guides, screw it to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws and to the guides.
- The center is also attached to suspensions. If it is impossible to use the rule in the same way as in the corner, apply it exactly from the starting profile, be sure to check the line with a level. The excess length of the suspensions is bent up.
- The second profile is attached in the same way. After that, everything should be repeated near the opposite wall.
- The central profiles are attached in the same way, leveling on the already installed ones.
Further, perpendicular to the main profiles, jumpers are installed. The distance between them should be 60 cm, that's why you broke the ceiling into squares. The profile is cut into segments with the required length. Crabs are installed at the joints, fastened with 4 self-tapping screws, the antennae are bent. Jumpers with self-tapping screws are attached to the antennae of the crab. From below, the jumpers do not need to be attached to the profile; during the installation of drywall, they will be fixed.
Photo: suspended ceiling insulation with mineral wool
The free space between the draft and suspended ceilings can be filled with heat and sound insulation. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells in the frame, and the space is filled, additionally fixed with suspensions.
3. Installation of drywall
Drywall sheets should lie in the room for several days, always in a horizontal position. Sheets are cut to the desired size with a construction knife. Before starting installation, the chamfer must be cut at the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty completely fills the gap. Burrs that form during cutting are removed with a planer. Holes for fixtures are made using crowns after careful measurements.
- Sheets need to start fastening from the corner. Self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets must be screwed in at different levels. The step between the screws is 20 cm. The hat must be completely recessed, it is advisable to check each screw by touch.
- The sheet is attached to both the guide and the ceiling profiles.
- Drywall cannot be closely joined along the perimeter. Leave a gap of 2 mm.
- Between themselves, the sheets must be placed in a run-up, shifting at least one cell.
Photo: fixing a drywall sheet with a screwdriver
Drywall has acquired the status of an indispensable material for repairs in an apartment. What they don’t make of it: various arches, niches, line the walls. We have already talked about multi-level structures, but we have not yet had time to mention plasterboard suspended ceilings. Today we will fix this and give you detailed instructions with a video and step-by-step photos of our work.
What makes drywall ceilings better than ordinary plaster?
- The ability to level any irregularities with the least effort. If you do this with the help, the maximum allowable layer will be 5 cm (if we talk about Rotband). A thicker layer will need to be applied in two passes.
- In the frame, you can hide any communications, pipes, wires.
- You can integrate almost any directional lighting into the ceiling. Well-chosen light will significantly change the final look of the repair.
- Finishing ceilings with plasterboard allows you to create single- and multi-level structures with different designs and shapes of bends, as well as.
- In addition, you can additionally build in isolation from extraneous sounds, insulate the room.
- Installation of drywall on the ceiling is carried out by a dry method, so there will be no need to wait for the solution to dry. After all, you don't have to be a professional plasterer to get a perfectly smooth surface.
However, filing the ceiling with drywall has its drawbacks:
- Reducing the height of the room by at least 5 cm due to the high profile height.
- Difficult installation process for a novice master. Be sure to have a puncher and a screwdriver. It is desirable to have a laser level.
- In the future, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.
- It's hard to deal with alone. At a minimum, during the sheathing, the help of a partner will be required.
Of course, for beginners it is even more difficult than drywall. Evaluate all the pros and cons for yourself and make a choice - what you like best.
Here we will look at how to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling of the simplest single-level design.
Required Tools
Before making a plasterboard ceiling, purchase the missing tools and materials. 
List of tools and accessories:
- guide profiles 28*27 mm (PN);
- ceiling profiles 60*27 mm (PP);
- direct suspensions;
- single-level profile connectors - crabs;
- metal scissors;
- self-adhesive sealing tape;
- anchor wedges;
- dowel-nails;
- paint thread (cord-breaking device);
- laser level or hydraulic level;
- bubble level 2 m;
- rule 2.5 m;
- drywall sheets;
- putty for seams;
- sickle - reinforcing tape for seams;
- perforator with a drill;
- screwdriver;
- hardened self-tapping screws for metal with a frequent pitch of 25-35 mm;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer;
- acrylic primer;
- if necessary, sound and heat insulation;
- extensions for profiles, if required;
- spatula wide, narrow and angular;
- standard tools: tape measure, hammer, knife.
This is such a long list, but you probably already have half.
Important nuances - what beginners need to know
To calculate the required number of profiles, fasteners and drywall, you should first familiarize yourself with the installation technology. Next, the calculation will be shown on the example of a specific room and the consumption of materials will be shown.
If you do not know which drywall is best for the ceiling, or profiles for the frame, then buy products from well-known manufacturers, for example, the leader of them is Knauf. By buying cheap low-quality profiles, you risk getting a sagging ceiling over your head.
- As for the hydro level, it is needed in order to mark a perfectly horizontal line on the walls, regardless of the curvature of the room. It is based on the physical law of communicating vessels, so it will need to be filled with water to work. Two water level vessels on opposite walls will show the same level. You will make marks and then connect them with painter's thread. In general, you can’t do without a hydro level if you don’t have a laser level, because you are tormented by the usual bubble level to draw a line around the perimeter of the room, in the end it will still turn out to be uneven.
- The manufacture of plasterboard ceilings can be either from ordinary sheets or from moisture resistant ones. If you are making repairs in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen or loggia, use a moisture-resistant one: it contains hydrophobic additives. These two types differ in the color of cardboard: moisture-resistant green, and ordinary - gray.
Each type of drywall has its own color - Plasterboard ceiling sheathing usually occurs in sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm. Recall that heavier sheets are usually used for walls - 12.5 mm thick.
- The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive backing, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits less sounds.
Ceiling markings and rail fasteners
- First you need to find the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure each corner with a tape measure, and preferably the center of the room. In the lowest corner, you need to make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the ceiling if you do not plan to build in fixtures, or 8 cm if there are fixtures.
- Now, using the hydro level, make marks at the same level as the first point on each corner.
Cord-breaker for marking the wall (painting cord) - Now you need to make a beating to evenly connect all the points with a horizontal line. Stretch the paint cord between the marks and release it sharply so that it hits the wall - the paint on the cord will leave an even imprint. Make lines around the entire perimeter of the room.
Taping with masking tape Before hemming the ceiling with drywall, we recommend that you make notes about the position of the profiles on the walls. So it will be easier to look for them when attaching sheets to the frame.
- Now fix the guide profiles to the walls. To do this, attach one guide to the line (the bottom edge of the profile - along the line) and make marks on the wall through the finished holes on the profile. There should also be holes along the edges of the profile, so if there are none, step back 10 cm and do it yourself. Drill holes according to the marks.
- Then you need to glue the sealing tape on the profile and fix it with dowels to the wall. We fasten at least 3 dowels.
- Next, mark up the main ceiling profiles. Since the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm, usually the profiles are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other in order to fix the sheet at the edges and in the middle. So, make lines on the ceiling in 40 cm increments.
- With such a small step of ceiling profiles, jumpers between them are needed only at the transverse joints of the sheets, that is, every 2.5 m (standard length of drywall sheets). This means that the suspension pitch for ceiling profiles should be an integer number of times smaller, for us 50 cm will be optimal. It should be noted that the first row of suspensions will be twice as close to the wall, therefore 50:2 = 25 cm. The second row will be 25 +50 = 75 cm and so on in increments of 50 cm.
- For marking, attach the suspension at the desired points on the ceiling and make 2 marks for each under the anchors. There will be a lot of dust while drilling holes, so be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.
Frame installation
- We fix the hangers with anchors, they hold the suspended ceiling much better. The dowels can be pulled out by pulling a little with pliers, so they are not suitable for the ceiling. Also do not forget to stick the sealing tape on the hangers. When you fix the suspension, bend its ends properly so that they bend as much as possible. During subsequent fastening, they should no longer sag, otherwise the profiles will not be fixed unevenly.
Profile extension attachment - Now you can start installing ceiling profiles. They are 3m long, so if your room is smaller, cut them with metal shears 1cm shorter than the room. If the room is longer, you will need special connecting fasteners to increase the length of the profile.
Note! When building a profile in length, the joints of adjacent profiles should not be on the same line. Also, there should be a suspension near the joints.
- Fastening ceiling profiles to suspensions starts from the corners of the room. To secure them without sagging, your partner should take the rule and hold it with a wide grip (so as not to sag) to the two rails that form an angle (i.e. the rule should be diagonal). This way it will maintain your profile at the level of the guides. At this point, you will screw the profile to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws with a press washer. Also, do not forget to attach the profiles to the guides. So that they do not hang out, it is better to buy self-tapping screws without a drill.
- The corners are ready, now we fix the center of the ceiling profiles on the suspensions. If the rule cannot be applied to the center in the same way, then apply it exactly from the starting profile. Be sure to check for evenness with a long level. After attaching the hangers, bend the excess length of the ends up.
- In the same way, fasten the second profile, supporting the rule. Then go to the opposite wall and attach the next 2 ceiling profiles. Then go to the center and hang the remaining profiles, relying on the already installed ones.
- Now you need to fix the jumpers where the drywall joints will be (every 2.5 m). They are fastened with the help of special single-level mounts - crabs. In the right places, screw the crabs on 4 self-tapping screws. If you retreat from the main ceiling a small distance, then the crabs may not pass from above, so you will have to hang them in advance.
Fasteners for suspended frame - Cut the jumpers from the ceiling profile and fasten to the crab with 4 self-tapping screws, bending the antennae. It is not necessary to fasten the jumpers to the profiles from below, they will be fixed by drywall.
- If necessary, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells and fits inside the frame, additionally clinging to the suspensions. To enhance the effect, you can also fill the cavities of the profiles with it. Mineral wool absorbs sound very well, but when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.
If you want to see the installation of a plasterboard ceiling in action, the video tutorial will help you learn some of the nuances of the work:
Fastening drywall to frame
Note! Before fixing drywall, it must be in the room for at least a couple of days. However, it can only be stored in a horizontal position.
Self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed - Start fastening drywall to the ceiling by chamfering: you need to cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty then penetrates well into the gap. There is already a chamfer on the glued ends, so there is no need to remove it there.
- Start fastening the sheet from the corner with a pitch of 20 cm screws, retreat 10-15 mm from the edges. On adjacent sheets, screw the screws at different levels, in a run. Their hats should be recessed so that they do not stick out, check this by touch.
- Attach the sheets to each other in a run-up, shifting at least one cell. They do not need to be joined closely, there should be a gap of 2 mm around the perimeter. The GK sheet must be fixed along the perimeter (including to the wall guides), and in the center.
Note! If you have outside corners in your room, avoid joining the sheet near the corner. If you do not make a joint at least 10 cm from the corner, then a crack will soon appear.
Material counting
Now that you know the installation of a drywall false ceiling, you can calculate the amount of materials needed and the cost of installing it. To do this, it is best to make a drawing of the room indicating all dimensions and place all fasteners and profiles on it.
Ceiling scheme For a room of 20.8 square meters, we needed:
- 99 suspensions;
- 8 sheets of drywall;
- 19 ceiling profiles;
- 8 guides;
- 24 crabs.
The approximate price of installation work for hired workers is about 400 rubles per square. You can calculate the benefit if you do everything yourself - saving 8320 rubles. As you can see, it turns out a good benefit, you can even recoup the purchase of tools.
Seam sealing
Now let's talk about the last stage - how to putty the plasterboard ceiling and seal the seams. First of all, treat the seams with a primer and wait for it to dry. No need to tear the cardboard off the sheets. To seal the seams, you need to use especially strong putties, for example, Knauf Uniflott, the usual one will not work for this.
- Dilute the putty according to the instructions on the package. First seal all the seams against the wall, then all the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws. To seal factory seams, first fill it in, and then align the recess along the edges of the sheets with a wide spatula.
A new type of Knauf edge allows you to apply putty into the seams more denselyNote! Since 2013, Knauf has been producing plasterboards with a new edge (PLUK), which increases the strength of the putty at the joints and makes it possible not to use a reinforcing mesh on such an edge. Therefore, at the factory joints of the sheets, you can not use the mesh if you seal the seams with Knauf Uniflott putty.
- When the putty dries, stick self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) on the seams. Glue it overlap at the intersections. Dilute a little more putty and cover the sickle and the remaining small irregularities. Puttying the plasterboard ceiling in the corners is best done with an angled spatula.
- So you minimize the appearance of cracks at the joints. To enhance the effect, you can. Now the surface is ready for further puttying in the usual way. If you still have small protrusions after sealing the seams, then the finishing layer will hide everything.
In this article, we examined in detail how to sheathe a ceiling with drywall, and now you can make it at home with your own hands. We have described the process of creating a single-level structure, but if you decide, the order of work will change slightly.
When renovating an apartment, a home master is often faced with work on the ceiling, which is always in the field of view of any visitor and therefore is important in the design of any room.
Due to the availability of a wide range of drywall sheets and various fasteners for it, you can create a perfectly flat ceiling with your own hands, providing a beautiful room interior. This will require a simple set of tools and the ability to use them with.
How to choose drywall for the ceiling
Since the entire structure rises to a height and is fixed there, attention should be paid to its weight. The larger it is, the more difficult it is to perform high-quality work, to apply measures against collapse.
The types of drywall sheets produced by the industry are described in the article. When choosing them for the ceiling when repairing an apartment with your own hands, you should not take those that are thicker than 12.5 mm. It is optimal to use 9.5 or 8.0 mm. Otherwise, the total weight of the suspended ceiling structure can be quite large.
| Comparative evaluation of the weight of drywall sheets | |||
| Sheet size and area in meters | Sheet weight in kilograms with thickness in mm | ||
| 12,5 | 9,5 | 6,0 | |
| 1.2∙3.0=3.6 sq.m | 36 | 27 | 18 |
| 1.2∙2.5=3.0 m2 | 29 | 22 | 16 |
| 1.2∙2.0=2.4 sq.m. | 23 | 18 | 12 |
It is enough to determine the total area of \u200b\u200bcovering the ceiling, and from it, knowing the characteristics of one sheet taken from the table, calculate the final weight.
Stages of installation of a suspended ceiling
The work is reduced to the sequential execution of technological operations:
- determining the plane of placement of the base surface and applying its markings on building structures;
- installation of a holding frame made of metal profiles, taking into account the main electrical wiring and low-current circuits;
- fixing drywall sheets;
- putties and surface finishes.
How to mark a false ceiling
The ideal solution is to mount the structure strictly in, which our vision perceives well. It is convenient to use it to embody various ideas of designers.
When repairing an apartment with your own hands to mark the horizon, you can use conventional hydraulic levels with bubble reference indicators or various designs of laser levels. The use of the latter greatly facilitates the drawing of the base plane, allows you to perform it quickly and efficiently.
In order to mark the depth of lowering the plasterboard surface from the ceiling, it will be necessary to draw its horizon level on the walls.
The laser beam allows you to quickly identify the boundaries of the horizontal plane. To mark it, you should determine the lowest point on the ceiling slabs and deviate from it by a minimum size of 4 cm. This distance is necessary to hide the profiles and conveniently fix them with hangers.
If they are installed close to the ceiling, then it will be quite difficult to work, and a greater distance reduces the amount of free space in the room.
In the places marked by the laser beam, clearly visible control points are applied with a marker pencil. They beat off the entire line with a coloring paint cord. To do this, it is fixed around the edges, and then sharply released.
When marking up, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.
This is done around the entire perimeter of the room, drawing a single closed line along the walls. After that, it is necessary to draw a markup for installing profiles along the width of the ceiling and attaching drywall to them.
Each sheet must be attached around the perimeter and centerline. With a standard width of 120 cm, the center will be located at a distance of 60 cm from the edge. At this distance from the wall, markings are made for attaching profiles. 
Each line should coincide with the junction of the drywall sheet in the center of the intermediate profile. Holes for dowels will be drilled along it in the ceiling at the same distance for fixing suspensions with self-tapping screws that regulate and hold the intermediate profile.
It is convenient to mark the lines of the ceiling along the long side of the room. You need to start work from one wall and gradually move to the opposite. The last row may be shorter. Sheets of drywall for it will have to be cut.
How to install a frame for installing a false ceiling
The first designs of drywall sheets were fastened to the ceiling through dried wooden slats. However, wood is subject to moisture, shrinkage and warping. After a certain period of time, cracks and defects may appear on the outer surface. For these reasons, modern technology involves the installation of drywall only on metal profiles specially created for this purpose.
General rules
The principle of mounting a drywall construction is based on rigidly attaching a guide profile to the walls and installing an intermediate profile into it, which is additionally regulated and held on suspensions screwed to the ceiling.
From the standard range of profiles produced by the industry for fastening drywall, UD27 is suitable as guide models, and CD60 is intermediate.
You will also need tape hangers, the number of which depends on the profile assembly scheme.
Installation of the guide profile
The line drawn on the wall serves as a guide for setting the bottom surface of the mounted profile.
To do this, it is pre-drilled and applied to the installation site. After orientation on the wall, a marker pencil is inserted through the holes created, leaving a visible mark. According to the created markup, holes are punched with a perforator and dowels are hammered into them.
This installation will serve as a support for the entire false ceiling structure. It must be done securely.
Intermediate profile fastening
Its length must be strictly measured and correspond to the size of the room. If it is larger, then the excess part can be cut off with a grinder or a hacksaw. When the standard size of 3 meters is not enough, then the missing piece is increased by connecting through an adapter with a screw fastener.
Intermediate profiles prepared along the length are inserted into the guides fixed on the wall so that their wide part of the base is facing down to the drywall sheets.
Before performing this operation, along the previously outlined lines on the ceiling, the installation of tape suspensions is performed. They serve to adjust the created horizontal plane of the suspended ceiling. When controlling the work, it is convenient to use a stretched thread or cord and a tape measure.
The indentation of the profile from the surface of the stationary ceiling of the order of one centimeter is needed in order to make it convenient to fasten it with a suspension with a metal screw and adjust the level of the horizontal plane by inserting a fingertip into this gap.
After fastening the profile, the free ends of the suspension are bent to the side.
How to lay electrical wiring in a suspended ceiling
Rooms should be thought out in advance, before the start of do-it-yourself apartment renovation. To do this, you should consider and determine the installation location of the junction boxes.
It is impossible to clutter up and hide inside the building structures the connection points of cables and wires. Access to them must be free. Otherwise, in case of malfunctions in the electrical network, you will have to look for the cause of the breakdown and break the created decorative coatings.
Installation of electrical lines
Cables and wires for fixtures located in a false ceiling are placed in a corrugation or metal hose that protects its surface from mechanical damage, and then fixed on the ceiling or in profiles.
They create an intermediate fastening link or a separate suspension system, and spotlights can be mounted directly in drywall sheets.
Here it is also necessary to provide questions for lighting fixtures, to ensure their required length.
Work with electrical wiring must be completely completed before mounting the sheets on the frame.
How to prepare and fix drywall
Features of the preparation of the ends
Along the entire perimeter of the surface of each sheet, curly edges should be created that serve to fill the putty mortar. On factory products, they may have a different profile.
If you want to cut drywall sheets, then at the joints created, professional builders form the edges with a special tool.
The home master does not have such devices, but it is quite possible to get by with a simple planer for wood processing.
Its cutting blade is strictly fixed in the body and allows you to perform a smooth, uniform cut.
You should not use an ordinary knife: you get a curved surface.
The edges are created in order to increase the amount of space for the putty mortar. If they are not done, then due to its insufficient amount, cracks will form on the decorative surface over time.
Surface marking
On each sheet, prior to its installation on the ceiling, it is necessary to draw marking lines along which self-tapping screws will be screwed in for fastening to an intermediate profile hidden behind the surface. An ordinary tape measure and a paint cord will allow you to do this job quickly and efficiently.
Installation of drywall on the frame
The weight of one sheet, depending on the thickness, can vary from 12 to 36 kg. At the same time, it has large dimensions. Working with it and lifting it from the floor to the ceiling level is not quite easy: you need an assistant.
Among the builders there are specialists who, with experience and prepared devices, perform such work alone. The owner of the video Severkola demonstrates one of the ways of such editing.
We do not recommend repeating these techniques without a certain building experience and skills in handling drywall.
Features of fastening sheets to the frame
Installation of drywall is carried out with 35 mm self-tapping screws. So that they hold the heavy weight well, they are screwed at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheet and 10 ÷ 15 cm between themselves. Fastening is carried out around the entire perimeter of the surface and the center line.
The pre-made clear marking of the false ceiling from metal profiles and drywall sheets ensures that the self-tapping screws hit the fasteners exactly.
Head caps should be flat. They are slightly recessed into the surface of the sheet for subsequent convenient puttying and leveling.
At the joints of the sheets, it is necessary to install additional profiles to ensure a snug fit of the drywall. The connection is made using adapter inserts fastened on the thread, or Crab-type suspensions.
Fastening sheets to them with self-tapping screws provides increased rigidity of the structure, eliminates the formation of cracks during operation.
A general view of the created structure with the power cable removed is shown in the photograph.
Putty and finishing
Of the consumables for this work, you will need to purchase the putty itself and a tape that reinforces the joints of the plates.
The technology for the correct execution of the sequence of operations is well shown in the video of the owner of the “Front of Works” “High Quality Ceiling Puttying”. We recommend that you carefully read this material because a certain part of the builders violate these rules, simplifying their work.
The traditional material for suspended ceiling structures is drywall. This ceiling can hide all communications in the interceiling space. You can make a regular, single-level ceiling, or you can complicate its design by making the ceiling a room zonator.
The first step in a lot of work will be drawing up a plan that indicates consumables, a drawing is required (especially if the ceiling is complex), in the case of a figured ceiling, you may have to make templates.
The work will proceed according to the following plan:
- Training;
- Installation of a metal frame;
- Ceiling decoration;
- Puttying the ceiling surface;
- Finishing;
- Installation of lighting fixtures.
Each of the steps can be done independently. The manufacture of such a ceiling is not the easiest idea, but it will allow not only to qualitatively level the surface, but also to create a ceiling decor - original and aesthetic.
Ceiling frame device
First you must mark the ceiling horizontal plane. Usually, they use a laser or water level. It is difficult to do this alone, it is better to enlist the help of a partner.
What should be done:
- Applying the level, mark the perimeter of the wall. The minimum you can lower the ceiling to is 3 cm, and if you are going to make recessed fixtures, then their size will be a reference for the height of lowering the ceiling.
- Connect the marks together. Make it just a paint coloring thread. Mark the ceiling surface in order to install straight hangers and CD-60 support profiles.
- After marking is completed, the guide profile is fixed. It must be installed not on the walls around the perimeter of the room with a focus on markings. You need to fasten the profile with dowels, the interval is from 300 to 450 mm.
- According to the ceiling markings with an interval of 600 mm, direct suspensions must be attached with self-tapping screws and dowels. At an angle of 90 degrees, lower their ends in the form of the letter P. With 12-mm self-tapping screws with a drill, the carrier profiles are fixed to the U-shaped hangers.
If necessary, the profiles are joined with a direct connector, which, by the way, can be made from a carrier profile. Crabs are attached to the carrier profile with an interval of 600 mm. To do this, use the sections of the UD-27 profile. Connect them between the crabs and the guides with 12mm self-tapping screws.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling sheathing: step by step instructions
The frame is ready, but this does not mean that the plasterboard can already be fixed.
The work goes like this:
- Lay the wiring in corrugated plastic pipes, fasten with clamps to the floor slabs. According to the plan for the placement of fixtures, release the loops of wires at the points of connection of lighting equipment.
- Then you can already sheathe the frame. Start fastening with a single sheet. Self-tapping pitch - 200 mm. Lay the first row correctly, the second is mounted on the ceilings with an offset. Be sure the joints of the first row will be covered with plates of the second row by at least a transverse profile (one).
- Mount the gypsum board so that the walls have a five-millimeter gap. It serves as a kind of compensation for moisture and temperature expansion of the material. If this is not done, the plaster ceiling runs the risk of cracking.
Installation of a single-level plasterboard ceiling (video)
The final stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling
The work is not yet completed, but perhaps the easiest and most enjoyable stage is ahead. It is necessary to putty the ceiling and seal the seams. To do this, carefully treat the seams with a primer, wait for the primer to dry. Do not tear the cardboard off the sheets!
The usual putty for sealing the seams is not used, you need a very strong one, there are such in the Knauf line.
- Spread the putty according to the instructions, first of all, seal all the seams near the wall, then grab the joints. Do not forget about the hats of the screws.
- To seal a factory seam, first fill it with compound, and then with a wide spatula, align the recess along the edge of the sheet.
- After the putty has dried, glue the sickle on the seams. At intersections, it must be glued with an overlap. A little more spread the putties and putty on the sickle, as well as small defects that remain. Puttying is easier with an angled trowel.
- Enhances the effect of protection against cracks fiberglass gossamer. Even if some protrusions remain after sealing the seams, further finishing will correct them.
- After that, the seam treated with putty is overwritten (the method of fine grouting is used). Get a smooth, even surface.
- After grouting, let the drywall dry, and then prime the seams again. Then a finishing putty layer with a fine-grained structure is applied, usually white putty is taken.
Do not forget that the work is carried out with closed windows and vents, there should be no drafts. Otherwise, the finish may lead, and cracks cannot be avoided with such a disturbed mode of operation.
Finishing putty is not carried out if you are going to paste over the ceiling with wallpaper or other decorative options (glossy coating). You just need to putty the joints, and level the surface after the seams.
Puttying drywall seams (video)
Such a "sandwich" made of cardboard and gypsum as a plasterboard in almost any home can become a future beautiful and original ceiling. Look for ideas in the photo gallery, make sketches, outline a plan, and a self-installed ceiling will become your pride.
Suspended design - a versatile and practical option for finishing the ceiling. It can be mounted in any room, regardless of the level of humidity. A creative approach to the installation of a false ceiling and building experience makes it possible to create a multi-level structure of the original form. But even an ordinary single-level frame with plasterboard sheathing hides defects in the main ceiling, allows you to hide communications, wiring and ventilation elements, and place lamps. Reducing the height of the ceiling reduces heating costs, and the thermal insulation layer keeps the room warm.
If you have construction skills, you will quickly figure out how to make a false plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. It will be more difficult for novice masters in this matter, but desire and a good assistant will allow them to cope with the task.
What is needed to install a false ceiling? This:
- powerful drill or puncher;
- laser or water level;
- screwdriver;
- metal scissors;
- roulette;
- chopping cord;
- mounting knife.
Materials for mounting the structure
The basis of suspended ceilings is a metal, less often wooden, frame. To assemble it, you need to purchase:
- Guide steel galvanized profile UD, having a length equal to 3 and 4 m, metal thickness up to 0.6 mm.
- Ceiling-rack support profile CD, produced in lengths of 3 and 4 m, its width is 6 cm, the thickness of the steel base is 0.4–0.6 mm.
- Connectors for CD profile: angular, longitudinal, single-level (crab), direct suspension, self-tapping screws and dowels.
- Drywall sheets. The type of material - ordinary or moisture resistant, is selected depending on the purpose of the room and the level of humidity in it.
Note! Professional installers recommend buying all the materials for the frame of one manufacturer, then they are optimally suited in size.
markup
Installation of the structure begins with the marking of the walls and ceiling. In one of the corners, the first point is marked, lowering it by the size of the future ceiling. Using the water level, a mark is made on the opposite wall. This instrument consists of two vessels filled with water and connected by a tube. It accurately shows the horizontal plane, it is enough to raise its parts and set the same water level according to the drawn scale. On it, marks are transferred to the wall and connected with a chopping cord. A precisely drawn horizontal line will allow you to screw the profile correctly and avoid difficulties with the installation of the structure.
Note! On the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the attachment points of the suspensions and the ceiling profile. Lines are marked at a distance of 60 cm, for the first one, 25 cm is deposited from the profile wall.
The guide profile is fastened along the drawn strip with dowels. Holes for them are punched with a puncher in the walls and in a metal profile. The fastening step is 30 cm, in the corners it decreases to 10 cm. The galvanized guide profile is installed on all walls. The ceiling profile will be inserted into it.
Direct hangers are attached at the intersection of lines marking the location of the CD profile. They are screwed with two or three dowels, it depends on the expected load.
The perforated sides fold down at a 90 degree angle. The CD profile is inserted into the opposite UD guide profiles. If the smallest side of the room exceeds 4 m, then the carrier profile is spliced with longitudinal connectors, a suspension can be installed in this place to increase reliability. In small rooms, the profile must be cut into pieces. It is easily cut with special scissors for metal. To align all CDs in the same plane, a strong thread is pulled under them as a guide. The profile is screwed to the hangers on both sides with self-tapping screws. The remaining parts of the plates are bent to the sides.
After fixing all the suspensions, the transverse parts of the frame are mounted. To do this, you will need “crab” connectors that snap into place on the CD profile at a distance of 50 cm from one another. The antennae of the connector are bent on the longitudinal profile and transverse parts, the connection is made with self-tapping screws. Jumpers must be attached to the main profile at a right angle. After tightening all the joints with self-tapping screws, we get a finished frame with a cellular structure, to which sheets of drywall can be screwed.
Ceiling cladding
Drywall ceiling construction is not designed to carry the extra weight. Do not mount heavy lamps or air conditioners on it. Before sewing up the ceiling, it is necessary to make a fixture for the chandelier, which is installed on the ceiling. At this stage, insulation is laid, electrical wiring for spotlights is laid.
Drywall sheets are laid so that their edge is located in the center of the CD carrier profile. The fastening of the canvas to the frame should occur around the entire perimeter and in the middle, where the metal profile passes. Adjacent sheets divide the carrier profile shelf in half. The work is carried out with a screwdriver, screwing in the screws at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. To ensure that the self-tapping screw enters to the same depth, not exceeding 1 mm, you need to install a limiter nozzle on the tool. Drywall is cut into pieces of the desired size with a mounting knife.
After fixing all the drywall sheets, cut out holes for the lamps. A perfectly round shape is obtained when working with a special nozzle on a drill. The next step in ceiling cladding is surface priming. After the putty begins. Finishing is started from the joints and places of screwing the screws, a mesh is applied to the putty layer for more durable fastening of the seams. After allowing the applied layer to dry, the entire ceiling is puttyed. The finished surface is cleaned with sandpaper. Suspended ceiling ready for finishing decoration.
Note! For a room with normal humidity, ordinary drywall is used, the use of a moisture-resistant one will not give any advantages, on the contrary, it will make the structure heavier.
Installation of a suspended structure requires accuracy, strict measurements and adherence to technology. By acting according to the plan and being responsible for the reliability of fastening and compliance with the desired level, you will assemble an excellent false ceiling.
We also want to invite you to read the articles that describe the technology for the manufacture of plasterboard ceilings.