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How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and correctly

An inner sill is an integral part of any window. It is officially believed that this part of the structure is necessary for additional insulation of the lower joint of the window frame with the wall and giving the window a finished look. In this article we will talk about what kind of window sills are and, since plastic windows occupy at least 50 - 70% of the market in our country, I will dwell on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows.

What are the window sills

By and large, if the masters installed the window frame with high quality, and the bottom gap is well filled, this sector no longer needs special insulation. Therefore, the owners are usually more interested in the question of how respectable this or that window sill will look, and of course the price of this pleasure.

Many inexperienced owners believe that since they have plastic windows, then all other fittings must also be mounted from PVC (polyvinyl chloride is popularly window plastic).

In fact, you can put any window sills here, the main thing is that they fit in design and you have enough money for them. Therefore, before placing the window sill on plastic windows, it will not be superfluous to get acquainted with the main offers on the market:

• Naturally the most popular material is the aforementioned polyvinyl chloride.... The hollow structure, reinforced with internal stiffeners, is considered to be quite warm and durable. It harmonizes almost perfectly with traditional white windows, and a window sill can be selected for laminated windows. Plus, the PVC plate costs quite reasonable money. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and, if the technology is not violated, then it will stand as much as windows;

If the choice fell on PVC, do not get carried away with savings, they are not expensive anyway. The fact is that plastic, like no other material, is exposed to sunlight. While the window sill is new, everything will be beautiful, but in six months the surface of cheap plastic will change. It will at least turn yellow, and as a maximum, it will crack and deform.

• Figuratively speaking, the elder brother of polyvinyl chloride is a plastic sill on an acrylic basis.... It costs about 3 times more, but the quality is much better here. Whatever one may say, the PVC stove is afraid of high temperatures, unlike it, hot pots can be put on acrylic and even a cigarette butt forgotten on it will not harm the surface. Acrylic board is much stronger, its shiny glossy surface looks more respectable. The colors are brighter here, and the palette is wider;

• A wooden window sill is rightfully considered the patriarch of this trend.... In the public sector, pine is usually used. The range of species in elite window sills is much wider, it can be golden oak, teak, and a dozen more exotic types of wood. But to be honest, I do not understand people who put expensive natural wood on plastic windows. And in general, plastic does not harmonize well with wood, except if these windows are laminated to a certain type of wood;

• A completely different matter is window sills made of laminated chipboard or MDF... In this case, the same plates from which the countertops are made, which designers actively use, go here. Particleboard will cost a little less, MDF will be more expensive. But MDF is more resistant to humid environments and I always recommend installing it. Since installing a window sill if the window is already in place, the task for a home craftsman is quite feasible, people are now massively rushing to change the old plastic for a new laminated MDF;

• A polished natural stone window sill certainly looks luxurious, but the prices for them, frankly, are exorbitant. Although, if you look at it, they are not so good in operation. The fact is that natural stone is unpredictable, stains from coffee or red wine can remain on it, any stove always has a critical point, with a slight impact into which the stove bursts. Plus, the same granite can often and densely emit radiation. Agree, it is not pleasant to install such a "gift" in your own home, and even for a lot of money;

• Both from the point of view of cost and operational characteristics, it is much more profitable to install a modern artificial stone. Firstly, in appearance it is often no different from natural. Secondly, it is more resistant to mechanical and chemical stress. Reproaches from skeptics that artificial stone is less durable are only partially true. After all, for example, the guarantee for porcelain stoneware starts from 50 - 70 years. Roughly speaking, these windowsills can get bored rather than collapse.

For a story about manufacturers and prices for all existing types of window sills, no article will be enough. But since even an amateur can put a plastic window sill correctly, I decided to focus on it. Plus, according to statistics, about 50% of the market for plastic windows is occupied by PVC window sills.

Below, to make it easier for you to navigate, I have compiled a small table that contains the most popular and reliable manufacturers of various window accessories with average prices for the window sills we are interested in.

Window sill installation technique

The easiest way is to install or replace a PVC and acrylic window sill with your own hands. Installation instructions for MDF, chipboard and natural wood are not much more complicated. As for natural or artificial stone, it is better to entrust these materials to professionals, since not every master is able to install them.

Dismantling the old plate

Naturally, before replacing the old, obsolete window sill with a new one, you must first dismantle it. Do not be alarmed, this is a simple matter, but a responsible one. After all, the more carefully you remove the stove, the less hassle there will be with the preparation of the base.

• If there is a wooden sill, then you will need a hacksaw and a pry bar or a small crowbar to remove it. It is not worth knocking out the board at once with a crowbar, you can severely damage the slopes and then you will also have to tinker with them. Better to make 2 or 3 cuts and pull out the center piece. In this case, on the sides you will have small pieces walled up in the slopes. These pieces must be carefully knocked out with several blows from the side, into the butt;

I am often asked if it is possible to replace a hacksaw with a grinder? So, in no case should this be done. Remember, perhaps the largest number of injuries and injuries from a grinder are received when trying to cut a tree with a grinder.

• But in the case of a reinforced concrete or stone slab, a grinder with a diamond disc will be exactly what you need. In this case, besides her, a weighty hammer or a small sledgehammer is also useful. First, a grinder makes several cuts, if possible through. After that, take a hammer and knock out all this "cutting" with blows from the bottom up. The remains are cleaned with a pry bar;

• Fixing a plastic window sill is considered one of the weakest. But before removing such a plate, you should first dismantle the ebb (outer window sill) and check if our plastic is screwed on from the outside with self-tapping screws. If they are there, then naturally they will need to be unscrewed. If there are none, then you just have to carefully cut the foam under the stove and try to pull out the window sill, moving it down and towards yourself at the same time.

A few words about preparing the foundation

Whether you are changing an old structure or working from scratch, before installing anything new, you must definitely prepare the base. Basically, all preparation consists of cleaning up dust and debris, as well as filling large potholes, if any.

Some masters advise making an even screed under the windowsill, supposedly on its basis it will be easier to set the slab in level. I have tried installing with or without a screed, on a bare base.

I will tell you honestly, there is nothing reprehensible in the screed, you can do this, but it's a pity for the time spent on it. After all, by and large, there is no difference whether you put wooden wedges on a flat base or on a curve. And if it is planned to install on alabaster or cement-sand mortar, the arrangement of a flat screed generally loses its meaning.

Getting started with installation

Window sill installation always starts with fitting. Of course, ideally, it is better to install the window sill even before arranging the slopes, while the walls are bare, but this happens only in new buildings.

Since we are talking about how to change the old to the new, we will have to cut, or rather, knock out the grooves in the side slopes. There is one interesting nuance here. The instruction recommends, before placing the window sill against the plastic window, to make wide lateral tolerances, approximately 5 - 7 cm from each edge.

That is, we need to make side grooves in the slopes with a depth of 5 - 7 cm along the outer edge. It is believed that this is supposedly more elegant. If you need to cultivate 1 - 2 windows, then these visits to the walls will not play a big role.

It is quite another matter when the task is to completely equip all windows in a fairly large private house, and funds are limited. In this case, an addition of 10 cm on each window, at the end, will result in a whole extra window sill.

Personally, I always recommend making lateral tolerances no more than 20-30mm. Believe me, this is enough to ensure a decent appearance. Moreover, most windows in houses and apartments have curtains that completely cover all these tolerances.

The side grooves themselves are knocked out to the tolerance depth, that is, at the distance that the slab will go inside the slope.

In order to accurately mark and not grab excess, you need to take a square, attach it to the window frame and draw a horizontal line starting from the upper cut of the groove under the window sill and ending with the outer cut of the slope. This will be the upper border of our groove.

The easiest way is to make cuts on the slopes with a grinder to the desired depth, and then knock out the excess with a puncher or chisel with a hammer.

Plastic window sills can be installed in two ways, with or without fixation on the window frame. The only difference is that in the first version, the inner end of the window sill, the one that adjoins the window frame, is first rigidly fixed on this very frame. Further, the entire installation algorithm is completely identical.

When marking and trimming the window sill, it should be borne in mind that it should not protrude beyond the wall cut by more than 5 - 7 cm.And under the frame itself, the plane is immersed by a maximum of 1 - 2 cm.

Fixing to the frame is extremely simple. In the place where the window sill will adjoin the frame, with a step of 300 - 400 mm, a number of through holes are made along the horizon. After that, the window sill is pressed against the frame and from the street side, through these holes it is screwed with long screws. Self-tapping screws must enter the plate body by at least 20 - 30 mm.

But it is not always possible to screw the plate to the frame with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is simply inserted under the frame. To strengthen the thermal insulation, just before strengthening the slab, I put a couple of strips of polyurethane foam on the place of its installation.

The installation of the plastic window sill itself looks something like this: first, we insert the plate we cut out and see how it will lie in the future. There is no need to worry about the curvature of the horizon. After all, the slab is adjacent to the lower edge of the window frame, which is already horizontal.

But we need to slightly tilt the stove inside the room, so that, if necessary, water does not accumulate, but flows freely from the windowsill. How many I have come across, in different sources the value of this angle is interpreted in different ways. Personally, I tilt around 5mm in width.

The inclined slab itself will be based on wooden wedges. These wedges are usually installed at a distance of about 300 mm from each other. Each one is cut and tailored personally and must fit snugly with no gaps.

As mentioned earlier, the slab sits in the groove under the window frame on the mounting foam. Then it rests on the wedges we have installed. But before you finally fix it, check again that it is firmly in place, without distortions and backlash. Better now to tinker with the fitting of the wedges than to constantly cover up the cracks.

To increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the polyurethane foam to any surface, this very surface must be well moistened.

The plate is fastened by filling the voids under it with polyurethane foam. And do not try to blow out too much foam, it will not be better from this, the extra one will come out anyway.

As you know, the polyurethane foam expands during solidification and if this feature is not taken into account in time, then your window sill can squeeze out in the middle. So that such an opportunity does not happen, after filling the gaps with foam, you need to put a load of about 15 - 20 kg on the windowsill. It should stand at least 10 - 12 hours.

At the last stage, the load is removed, the excess foam squeezed out from the bottom is cut off, and the impartial slots on the sides in the slopes are putty. Then you can only admire your work.

Installation of wood and its derivatives

As I already mentioned, the installation of window sills made of natural wood, MDF or chipboard is not a little more difficult than installing plastic. Here, in the same way, it is necessary, after marking, to knock out the grooves in the slopes.

The window sill itself, if the frame design allows, it is desirable to fix it on the frame or on the base profile, which is placed under the frame. As in the case of plastic, this is done with self-tapping screws through the through holes.

But in this case, there is one small caveat: there is such an interesting physical quantity as the coefficient of thermal expansion of a material. So, when we put a plastic window sill on a plastic window, there is nothing to be afraid of, because they have the same coefficient.

But in the case of joining different materials, as a result of a mismatch in thermal and moisture expansion, gaps and cracks may appear over time. Therefore, we will need to glue the so-called damper tape to the end of the plate, which is designed to compensate for these vibrations.

Naturally, this tape is glued or attached to staples, only in places of direct contact with the body of the slopes and the window frame. Traditionally, antiseptic impregnated felt is the material for such a tape. Although now some masters use penofol (expanded polyethylene).

Wood, chipboard or MDF are heavier than plastic, so I personally prefer to use gypsum mortar instead of polyurethane foam, so it's safer. Instead of gypsum, you can just as well install the slab on a cement-sand mortar, diluted in a 1: 3 ratio.

In this case, the instruction will look something like this. We knock out the grooves in the slopes, try on the slab and grind the required number of wooden wedges under it. After that, apply a solution to the base. The mortar layer should cover the wedges by 5 - 10 mm.

Further along the line of joining with the frame, we apply a couple of strips of polyurethane foam. We insert the window sill with the damper tape and press it until it rests against the wedges. We remove the excess of the squeezed out mortar and putty the cracks on the slopes at the junction with the slab.

If everything is done correctly, then the window sill will stand firmly. But some masters prefer to play it safe. They hammer a long nail into wooden wedges from below in such a way that it goes right through and looks out from above by 10 - 15 mm. The wooden wedge itself is fixed to the base with an anchor.

As a result, when you finally insert the plate, it sits on the nails sticking out of the wedges and is fixed tightly. A way worthy of attention.

The only downside here is that before installation, you need to carefully measure and check everything several times. Otherwise, in case of an error, almost everything will have to be done again, because the nails will no longer allow you to move or adjust the plate.

Output

Now you know how to install a window sill on plastic windows. The photo and video in this article provides additional information on this topic. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments, we will talk.

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Window replacement usually means the installation of the glass unit itself and the installation of the window sill. It is difficult to correctly insert a window structure with glass into the opening alone, so it is better to entrust this part of the work to professionals.

But it is quite possible to install a plastic window sill on your own. With the right approach, the task is easily accomplished, plus, they will save part of the family budget.

For work you will need:

• PVC window sill of the required type.
• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Building level.
• Jigsaw (circular saw).
• Perforator.
• Polyurethane foam.

The installation of a new plastic window sill should be started by determining the dimensions of the future structure.

How to take measurements and determine the size of the window sill

The width of the sill is determined based on the thickness of the load-bearing wall. To do this, pre-make the appropriate measurements of the walls.

To the result obtained, add 10-15 cm - the distance at which the window sill will protrude into the interior of the room and another 2 cm, which are necessary to deepen the structure under the glass unit.

The length of the plastic window sill is equal to the length of the window opening, plus an additional 5 cm. This is necessary so that the side parts of the plank enter the slopes, and the cut-off parts are not visible.

Attention! The protrusion of the window sill above the heating radiator should not exceed 7 cm, otherwise a niche for insulation of warm convection air will form in the window opening.

Selection criteria for purchasing

When choosing the right model of a plastic block, it should be borne in mind that the standard for the length of such products is in the range of 1.5-3 m, the standard for the width is 15-60 cm.

The length is determined depending on the size of the window opening horizontally with additional allowances for each side of 3-5 cm.

The width of the PVC window sill should correspond to the depth of the window opening, taking into account allowances for deepening under the glass unit and the protrusion of the block from the opening into the room.

Color, structure, decorative coating of the product is selected in accordance with the design of the window.

In this matter, it is not prohibited to be guided by personal preferences, since these indicators do not affect the quality of the installation and the performance of the product.

Preparing for installation

The window sill should go beyond the window opening by 2-5 cm on one side and the other. Therefore, before installing the block, you need to trim.

To do this, markings are made on the panel with a pencil and the excess parts are cut off with a jigsaw (hand, electric) or a circular saw.

If the walls in the room are perfectly flat, the plastic window sill can be installed flush with the plastered surface.

In the case when plastic or plasterboard slopes are already installed on the window, their lower part will have to be cut in order to insert the window sill into the gap.

If the wall is uneven, you need to make small indentations (about 5 cm) on each side. After the completion of the installation work, the grooves cut in the wall will need to be putty.

The seat should be leveled, cleaned of debris. For better adhesion, the surface must be dust-free by wiping it with a damp sponge.

Installation work

The instructions for installing a plastic window do not provide for any complicated steps. The main thing is to do everything clearly, accurately, without breaking the sequence of stages:

1. The panel prepared for installation with gaps cut out on the sides is pushed under the lower profile of the glass unit to a depth of 2 cm.
2. Pre-prepared wooden wedges are brought under the lower part at a distance of 4 cm between adjacent bars. The angle of inclination is adjusted by changing the height of the wedges (trimming, lining of chips).
3. The correctness of the installation of the structure horizontally is checked using the building level. Measurements are made in all directions.

Wooden wedges are needed in order to tightly press the block against the structure of the reinforced-plastic window and take on some of the load.

In addition, with their help, the window sill is installed with a slight slope away from the window in order to exclude water leakage (watering indoor flowers, condensation) under the profile of the glass unit.

The final stage

The gaps between the wall and the bottom of the plastic block installed on the bars are sequentially filled with polyurethane foam. On the far side, the window sill is pressed against the window frame with self-tapping screws.

A load (10-15 kg) is placed on the windowsill so that the panel does not rise. Since professional polyurethane foam practically does not expand, it will be enough to put 3-4 three-liter cans of water on the panel.

The work is almost complete. It remains to wait until the foam has completely hardened, which will happen in about a day. After that, you need to remove the load from the windowsill and carefully cut off the excess foam with a clerical knife.

As you can see, the process of installing a plastic window does not foresee anything complicated. The main thing is to carry out the correct preliminary measurements, cut the block and follow the recommendations during installation.

Also look at the video of the process of correctly installing a plastic window sill with your own hands.

An indispensable attribute of any window system is the window sill. In addition to performing a decorative function, it additionally protects the room from the penetration of cold in the area of \u200b\u200bthe support profile. The most widespread are plastic (PVC), wooden and partly granite window sills. But since plastic products cost less, have high performance characteristics, and their weight is lower, they are in great demand. Carrying out installation work does not require special skills, so the installation of the window sill, if you have the necessary tools, can be done by hand.

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When a sill replacement is required

A large selection of polyvinyl chloride boards allows you to choose a product with the necessary characteristics according to the following parameters:

• color performance, with imitation of stone or precious wood;
• dimensions in mm: width 110–800, length 4050–6000, thickness 18–22;
• a specific manufacturer;
• affordable cost per running meter;
• the quality and composition of polyvinyl chloride;
• resistance to wear and tear, heat, ultraviolet radiation.

There are several reasons why the owners of an apartment or house decide to install a window sill on their own:

• The windows are in good condition, but the panel has become unusable - damaged, scratched, sold out.
• The old product was not secured correctly.
• After the renovation, there was a desire to install a PVC plate of a different color, more suitable for the new interior.
• Change the width of the panel. Replacing it with a narrow product that does not block the movement of warm air from the heating element upwards, thereby improving the circulation of air flows. The window frame heats up and does not damp, which reduces the likelihood of mold.
• It is difficult to find a specialist to perform small amounts of work in the form of one window sill plate.
• The desire to carry out the installation yourself, saving a little money.



To successfully install the window sill on your own, you will need to additionally purchase two end caps, they are attached to the side sections of the product at the final stage of work. And when two sill panels are connected at an angle or in a straight line, they get a universal PVC connector.

Tools and materials

The quality of the work performed, the ease and convenience of carrying out them, the service life of the entire window structure depend on the quality and class of tools and materials used. First of all, you need to prepare:

• PVC window sill;
• building level with a measuring tape, pencil;
• electric jigsaw, grinder;
• a cylinder of polyurethane foam for a special gun;
• stationery knife;
• wooden wedges of different thicknesses;
• mounting brackets, screws;
• chisel with a hammer;
• spatula with a primer.



Preparatory work

Before you put the window sill, you need to prepare the place , side slopes and the lower part of the window opening. Depressions in the slopes are additional support for the canvas on the sides, so the panel should go slightly into the walls. To do this, attaching it to the wall, the corresponding marks are made on each side with a pencil (marker). Next, choose the grooves, going deeper by 1–2 cm. This work, in order to exclude the formation of large holes and excessive damage to the slopes, should be done very carefully.



In the presence of metal perforated corners, horizontal cuts in the slopes will be correctly made with the help of a grinder, then the cut will turn out to be absolutely flat. Finish the rest of the indentation with a chisel and hammer, which work well on any soft surface such as gypsum plaster. If the walls are made of concrete, then the side grooves are made with a perforator with a special attachment in the form of a chisel.

Only after that, the bottom of the window opening is prepared with an installed support profile, to which the sill is adjoined and aligned relative to the window. The surface is cleaned of the remnants of plaster, concrete, brick, and dust generated during the work with slopes is swept away. For better adhesion to the polyurethane foam, moisten the prepared base, but it will competently use a primer, applying it on the surface with a brush. Having impregnated all pits, bulges and cracks with itself, it will securely hold the base.

Measurement and trimming

Before starting the installation, you will need to take measurements, on the correctness of which the appearance and strength of the future structure depend. Therefore, in addition to the characteristics and properties of a polyvinyl chloride product, it is necessary to take into account such nuances as its thickness and the distance between the battery and the window sill. Otherwise, the stove hanging over the heating device, disrupting the air circulation, will cause a deterioration in the microclimate in the room.



The length of the panel to be installed must exceed the distance between the slopes and go into them to a depth of two to three centimeters. The width is chosen arbitrarily, but since the window sill is located above the battery, the front ledge is made no more than 8 cm, which is necessary for normal heating and movement of air masses inside the room. For this reason, the vertical distance from the battery is maintained at least 10 cm.

On the sides of the window sill, 5 mm gaps must be left. Their presence will avoid damage caused by deformation of the panel when it is heated from the battery or under the influence of sunlight. To maintain the required distance, beacons with a thickness of 5 mm are used, which are removed at the final stage of work, and the cracks formed in their place are sealed with a sealant.



In accordance with the measurements taken, a window sill of the required length and width is cut from the workpiece. To do this, it is better to use a jigsaw or a grinder, a hacksaw with a fine-toothed metal saw, which will allow you to get perfectly smooth edges. Since plastic is a brittle material, it should be cut carefully, without excessive force.

If these requirements are not met, chips, cracks are formed, and the edge of the panel will turn out to be uneven. Work must be carried out in compliance with all safety measures, therefore, to protect against small particles formed during intensive cutting, work gloves and goggles must be worn.

Installation instructions

There are several ways how to install a window sill.

• The oldest method involves fixing it with a special compound. Today, due to the appearance of more convenient, reliable mounting options, it is rarely used.
• With self-tapping screws. In the window frame, holes are prepared for hardware. After processing them with acrylic sealant, the edge of the window sill is brought under the window and fixed with screws.
• On spring brackets. The fasteners are screwed directly to the substitution profile and the product is installed into the formed groove, between the frame and brackets.
• By wedging with beams. They are driven under the panel until it stops, trying to keep its edge pressed against the frame. This method is considered the most time consuming, but at the same time reliable.



Additional rigidity of the structure, regardless of the chosen installation method, is given by placing special linings under the window sill and filling the resulting voids with polyurethane foam.

The product is easier and more convenient to fix on the mounting foam, having previously aligned it on a level on wooden or plastic supports. They can be prepared in very different thicknesses, lengths and widths, which facilitates height adjustment. If the space between the base and the window sill exceeds 100 mm, then it is partially filled with mortar, while leveling the surface. A gap of a few centimeters is enough for the foam.



The supports are installed, maintaining a distance of 400–500 mm between them, but in an amount of at least three units - one in the center, two at the edges. The thickness of the substrate is chosen so that the window sill fits exactly between the supports and the lower edge of the window. Further, special mounting plates bent at an angle are screwed onto the support profile to hold the panel. By compressing the front of the workpiece, they minimize the chance of a gap forming. Long screws can be used instead of plates.



Having prepared the supports and installing the panel, preliminary alignment is performed relative to the horizon. If the window-sill space is planned to be filled with mineral wool, and not with foam, then the slab is removed and the supports are glued to the base with silicone glue.

Having removed a part of the protective film on the sides - in the places of abutment to the slopes, end caps are attached to them. The panel is carefully wound up and, resting on the substrates, is inserted into place. With a light tap, the window sill is adjusted to the window until it stops, thereby aligning it in width.



Recheck the position relative to the horizon in the transverse and longitudinal directions. Ideally, the level air bubble should be centered but slightly offset towards the room. Then the presence of a slope will prevent the accumulation of moisture.

When installing a window sill on a balcony or loggia, there are some nuances. Since there is no reliable support, the workpiece has to be fixed on the brackets. They are pre-mounted on a support profile or lower on the wall using self-tapping screws with press washers. The minimum number of brackets for one window sill is at least 4 pieces. It is recommended to maintain a distance of no more than 25 cm between them. For structural reliability, additional fastening of the panel with the frame to screws is carried out.



The final stage of work

When the polyurethane foam hardens, it increases in volume, and the window sill can, when raised, deform. Therefore, before foaming the window sill, the panel is loaded using any available weights - containers with water, books, collapsible dumbbells. They will hold it in place and the foam will be squeezed out along its entire length. The surplus of hardened foam is cut off with a knife and the final finishing is carried out.



After installing the window sill, all detected gaps and cracks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes and at the bottom of the window are eliminated with silicone sealant. It is applied in a thin strip and compacted by swiping with your finger. Surplus is promptly removed with a damp cloth. Once dry, this will be more difficult and the result will be less flavorful.



Excess dried foam is also removed by cutting it off with a clerical knife to a depth of 1 cm. Further, the surface under the panel and large voids found flush with the wall are filled with ordinary plaster. On the ends of the window sill, using glue for PVC products, plugs are installed. At the end of all work, after the final finishing of the slopes, it remains to remove the protective film.



As you can see, installing a window sill on your own does not require special skills. The only significant obstacle may be the lack of the necessary tools and the purchase of consumables (their leftovers may no longer be useful). Accordingly, the costs will be higher than the services of a qualified specialist.



Usually, the sills are fixed in place by professionals, the same team that installs, but this work can be done independently. This occupation is quite within the power of the owner of the house, who has a grinder, a jigsaw, several simple construction tools and knows how to use polyurethane foam.

How to install a plastic window sill?

1. Determine the length of the future window sill. This size is made up of several values. It is necessary to add up the width of the window opening and the size of the allowances on both sides, which usually range from 10 cm to 30 cm, depending on the wishes of the customer.

2. Using a corner, draw a line on the slopes to determine which part of the wall to remove.

3. We make a cut with a grinder, cutting the corner, if any, and then remove the excess brick and concrete with a chisel or perforator.

4. We clean the surface from debris with a brush, removing all dirt, concrete fragments and dust.

5. There are several ways how to properly install a plastic window sill with your own hands at home. Much depends on the material used, because it can be glue, mortar or polyurethane foam. In our case, we took foam for this work, so the work surface must be well moistened. It is best to treat the installation site of the window sill with impregnation.

6. To level the plane, we will have to use substrates made of plastic, drywall, wood or other material and a level. It is possible to mount the window sill not strictly horizontally, but with a slight slope up to 1 cm from the window, so that condensation or spilled water flows out.

7. With one edge we start the window sill into the groove, shift it to the right and gradually put it in place.

8. The product stands completely in the groove of the window frame.

9. Next, align the edges so that the outlets are the same on both sides.

10. In the question of how to install a plastic window sill in an apartment with the highest quality, we have come to the last stage. We install the cylinder in the pistol, shake it up, and carefully blow out all the voids and grooves under our beautiful windowsill with foam.

11. We put the load on the windowsill so that it does not move up.

12. We cut off the foam protruding from the edges with a knife, and then the wall can be putty and decorated with wallpaper.


You see that it is not difficult to install a plastic window sill in your apartment or private house with your own hands, our instructions will help you understand how to do it quickly and correctly. Successful to you!

Articles on this topic:

A window sill is an indispensable element of any window opening, performing both decorative and, in many cases, practical function... After all, this is one of those places where flower pots or other small household items are often located.

In the past, openings were most often decorated with wooden products, and with the advent of plastic windows, window sills began to occupy space in the interior. from similar material.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC products

pros

To the benefits products include the following properties:

• the material is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes;
• it does not require special care;
• the design is lightweight;
• does not require periodic touch-up, and is also not subject to shrinkage and warping, unlike wooden products;
• the window sill can be installed in any length, width and shape.

Minuses

• plastic is inferior in strength to the same wooden products;
• when using a glossy decorative film as a coating, the window sill is easily scratched and its appearance deteriorates;
• hot objects placed inadvertently (for example, a saucepan or pan removed from the fire) can significantly damage the surface.

Installation methods

Installation of a plastic window sill can be done in one of several ways:

1. Using a special solution. This method was often used in the past, but now, thanks to the emergence of new ones, it is practically not used.
2. Using spring brackets, which are screwed to the substitution profile with self-tapping screws, and the window sill itself is installed in the groove between the window and the bracket.
3. With self-tapping screws. This is the fastest way in which the window sill is attached to the window frame with screws.
4. Another option is to install a window sill without any fasteners (staples, screws). This is the most time consuming method, but at the same time the most reliable. The sill is fixed with wedges, which are driven under it, thereby tightly pressing the edges of the slab to the frame.

Required tools and materials

In order to change the window sill, you need to prepare a small set of tools and materials:

• window sill and end caps to connect panels;
• a cylinder of polyurethane foam and a gun for working with it;
• puncher;
• level, tape measure, pencil or marker;
• jigsaw or grinder;
• stationery knife;
• cement mortar.

This process is not complicated and is carried out as follows. Along the ends of the slab and along the entire length of the slope a niche is hollowed out using a puncher.

After that you need pry the stove with a pry bar or hit with a hammer. The sill freed in this way is carefully removed from the niche.

Or it is possible in such a gentle version with sawing the window sill in the middle:

Foundation preparation



Installation work



After the base is ready, you need to measure the niche and in accordance with the received dimensions cut out the window sillfrom a pre-purchased workpiece using a jigsaw or grinder.

If necessary, the thickness of the wedges is increased or decreased. The installation of the window sill must be carried out taking into account that the slab should have a slight slope towards the room (1-2 degrees). This will allow condensation and water from watering plants to drain to the floor, thereby liquid will not collect under the stove.



After fixing the window sill, the space between it and the base is blown out with polyurethane foam. For better fixation, the plate can be evenly press down with a weight.

As a cargo, you can put a five-liter water bottle in the amount of 3-4 pieces. In this position the structure is left for 2-3 daysso that the foam solidifies well, and then remove its excess with a clerical knife.

It is advisable not to overload the window sill, since in this case its surface may deform.

How to fix the foam under the windowsill?

This can be done in one of two ways:

1. Close up the flush-cut foam tile adhesive solution... If the walls will be painted in the future, you need to putty the area plastered with glue. If wallpapering is planned, the surface is treated with an acrylic primer.
2. In the second case, the foam follows close with vapor-permeable tapeand then install a decorative strip (PVC, aluminum or wood) on top.

Learn how to properly seal the foam with a solution from the video:




A few points to consider when installing a window sill.

Working with a hammer drill is desirable use personal protective equipment (glasses, mittens).

The window sill should not protrude beyond the slope line more than 6 cmotherwise, air circulation may be impaired and the windows will fog up.

Polyurethane foam sticks much better, if the surface with which it will contact, pre-moisten.

Having familiarized yourself with how to replace the PVC window sill, we can conclude that this the procedure does not require professional skills and a special tool.

The main thing in this matter is to be attentive and not to be mistaken with the dimensions when trimmingplates. Therefore, the rule "measure seven times, cut once" is more than appropriate in this case.

How to repair a window sill - all the secrets of installation, see the video clip: