Diy wood barrel. How to make a bath - a barrel of boards

The best brands of cognac, wine, liqueur, rum, whiskey are kept in wooden containers. In the household, barrels, tubs are also rightfully considered the best storage place for pickles. In terms of sanitary and hygienic characteristics, they are not much inferior to stainless steel containers, but they surpass the latter in a number of quality indicators. Natural material creates a favorable environment for the ripening of products, giving them original aroma and taste properties. You can make an oak barrel with your own hands if you carefully read the step-by-step guide for making this desired product.

There are only a few high-level professionals, but this does not mean that it is impossible to do the job. The requirements for making the required capacity at home are different. It is enough to make a structure that can withstand moderate loads during operation. Cooper must have skills and knowledge in the following areas of activity:

• Joinery. Basic operations are performed by techniques, tools used in this matter;
• Elementary metalworking skills. They are needed for the manufacture of high-quality, geometrically and technologically correct hoops;
• Basic knowledge of geometry. The shape of the barrel is complex, you need to accurately calculate the dimensions of each part: riveting, bottom, hoop;
• General concepts of wood heat treatment. In cooper's business, it is important to choose the correct mode of hot working during assembly (if the riveting has a significant bend), and then firing the finished product.

In the classic production of wooden containers, adhesives, metal fasteners are not used, with the exception of outer hoops. All connections are made by precise fitting of parts. Slots, gaps, which make the product unsuitable for solving the assigned tasks, are not allowed. A well-made barrel, the tub after assembly without soaking must have the required tightness. In some cases, small leaks are allowed in case of drying out of wood, which are easily eliminated by moistening and swelling of natural fiber.

Manufacturing principle and details of cooperage products

The production technology of wooden containers requires precise, step-by-step execution of operations, from the selection of raw materials to the decorative finishing of the outer side of the product. To make an oak barrel with your own hands, you need to know what it consists of:

• Housing. Assembled from prepared wooden blanks - rivets:
• Hoops. Made from metal strip. The exact diameter is determined in each case according to the planned dimensions of the barrel body. Wooden hoops are used less frequently. They are less reliable and more difficult to manufacture:
• Bottoms. Depending on the intended purpose, the container is equipped with one or two bottoms. The part is made with a set of wooden blanks assembled into a single plane, then a circle cut out according to the template with the necessary tolerance for a snug fit to the barrel body.

It is important to follow the exact recommendations of the professionals at every stage of the work. A cooper product of satisfactory quality cannot be made by violating even one point of technology. The production process in stages is as follows:

• Choice of wood for riveting, bottom;
• Drying, suitability testing, rejection of low-quality workpieces;
• Making rivets, bottoms, hoops;
• Barrel assembly;
• Burning;
• Finishing sanding, decorative finishing of the front part (if necessary).

The geometric dimensions of the rivets in each case are original, depending on the height of the barrel, the degree of bending of the workpiece, its width, the bevel angle of the end part for tight abutment with the adjacent element. The dimensions indicated in the existing drawings should be exactly repeated, or, having knowledge of the spatial construction of complex figures, independently determine the necessary values.

How to choose wood

Coopers can be made from various types of wood. However, oak barrels are considered the best. The choice is not accidental, because in addition to strength and durability, the material has unique biochemical characteristics for creating optimal storage conditions for drinks and food products. Natural substances in oak wood fiber have an antiseptic effect, give pickles, alcoholic beverages unique taste and aroma.

Experienced coopers choose raw materials when the tree is still in its roots. It is specially cut down and subsequently cut into the necessary blanks. The lower part of the trunk is used, on which there should be no branches, visible bumps and bends. Usually it is 4-5 meters from the root, when the plant is at least 100 years old. It is difficult to fulfill these conditions at home if the master is not an indigenous inhabitant of the forest. Therefore, the visible fiber qualities become the criterion for choosing wood for riveting. The requirements are:

• No knots:
• Inadmissibility of cross-bed;
• Cracks, natural defects, voids;
• Assorted variety.

What can be compared, for example, a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub. And in a linden barrel honey, apple juice are perfectly stored, you can make kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment even today. Just don't find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can make such a barrel yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, the amateur master is quite capable of handling it.

Step 1. Choice of wood

Before creating a barrel with your own hands, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are unsuitable for storing honey - in an oak barrel, honey darkens, and in a pine barrel it smells of resin. Here you need linden, aspen, plane trees. Poplar, willow, alder will also come down. But for salting, pickling or soaking, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve for more than one decade. For other needs, you can use black poplar, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees goes for riveting, it is called the “riveter”. But a lover of tinkering and from ordinary firewood will choose blanks, and the thin trunk will adapt to the case. The best way to make rivets is from raw wood.

Step 2. Splitting chocks

First, the chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - is split in half, gently tapping the butt of the ax with the log. Each half is then again split into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for a sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. You just need to try to make the split go radially - this will protect the riveting from cracking in the future.

Step 3. Blank drying and processing

Punched workpieces are dried in a room with natural ventilation for at least a month. A dryer can be used to speed up the process. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or scherhebel and a plane. The outer surface of the rivet is planed first. At the same time, to check the curvature of the surface, a template should be made in advance (Fig. 2) by cutting it out of a thin plate using an already finished product. Next, the side surfaces are planed, also checking their curvature according to the template.

Riveting can be shell-type - with one end wider than the other, and barrel-type - with an extension in the middle. The amount of these expansions determines the taper of the tub and the bulge of the central part of the barrel. It is sufficient if the ratio between the widest and the narrowest part of the rivet is 1.7-1.8 (fig. 3).

The lateral surface is finished with a jointing. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4).

Step 4. Processing the riveting from the inside

At the next stage, we process the inner (in relation to the finished barrel) surface of the riveting, cutting off excess wood with a plane or even an ax (Fig. 5). After that, the caddy riveting can be considered finished, while the barrel riveting still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm in the middle (Fig. 6). Do not be confused that rivets can have different widths - we take everything we can from each blank.

Step 5. Harvesting hoops

Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so strong, and the hassle is a hundred times more, so it is better to use steel ones. Hot-rolled steel strip with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm is used for the hoops.

Having measured the barrel at the point where the hoop is stretched, we add to this size double the width of the strip. With hammer blows, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and place rivets made of soft steel wire 4-5 mm in diameter (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared by hitting the pointed end of a hammer on a solid steel support (fig. 8).

According to their location on the product, the hoops are distinguished into a bunch - a central hoop on a barrel, a chime hoop - an extreme one and a neck hoop - an intermediate one.

Step 6. Assembling the product

To one jack of all trades, the grandmother brought a crumbled tub with a request to collect it. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. I came up with the following: I threw a rope on the floor and spread the rivets on it one to the other. Then he crushed them with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope. Gradually removing the pillows, he brought together the extreme rivets and secured with a hoop.

Coopers make it easier.

The product is assembled on any flat surface. First, two rivets are fastened to the hoop opposite each other with special staples bent of hoop iron (Fig. 9). Then, attaching rivets to one of them, we get to the other, which will tighten the assembled half of the barrel. Let's continue assembling until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.

Slightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we set it down and check whether the riveting edges have come together tightly. To achieve contact between the rivets along the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out the excess one and after that put a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of rivets does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the rivets or replace the narrow one with a wider one.

Having trimmed the ends of the frame with light blows of a hammer, we put on the middle hoop and push it up to the stop with the help of a heel (Fig. 10).

Step 7. Trimming the skeleton and final screed

Having set the skeleton on a flat surface, describe the trim line with a pencil using a block (Fig. 11). Having planted the chime hoop, cut off the skeleton 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a plane. We do the same with the other end of the skeleton.

When making a keg, after attaching the onion, neck and chime hoop on one side, the other side must first be pulled together. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. The DIYer can use a wire rope, rope, chain, or wire for the same purpose. You can tie a loop and gag it or pull off the ends of the cable with a lever (fig. 12).

There is no need to do any steaming or welding of the skeleton, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting does not bend over its entire length, but in one place and therefore gives a crack. However, in such cases the bochard would prefer to simply make a new rivet.

Step 8. Cleaning the skeleton from the inside

The assembled frame is cleaned from the inside with a plow or scherhebel, and the ends of the frame - with a plane - humpback (Fig. 13).
Now you need to make a chime groove in the frame (fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hoop iron, or even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove should be 3 mm (Figure 15).

Step 9. Making the bottom shield

First, a bottom shield is assembled from a sweet clover with a stitched outer side and joined side surfaces (Fig. 16). The sweet clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests 15-20 mm deep are drilled in advance. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of a regular hexagon inscribed in the circumference of the chime groove on the barrel's frame. However, it is necessary to cut out the bottom with a margin, departing from the intended circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After cleaning with a scherhebel, chamfers are cut off from the bottom edge (Fig. 17) so that three millimeters from the edge the thickness of the wood is 3 mm - this is necessary for the tightness of the connection of the bottom with the frame in the chime groove (Fig. 18).

Step 10. Fitting the bottom shield

We do the first fitting - loosening the hoop, insert the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then with light hammer blows and the rest. If the bottom goes tight, you need to loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.

After filling the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. Perfect results are rarely achieved the first time. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, they can be found by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, then the bottom is too big and you need to trim it slightly. It is worse if the water flows through the bottom or through the chime groove. Then you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the rivets.

Step 11. Installing the second bottom

Before installing the second bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The plug is made as shown in fig. 19, its height should not be less than the thickness of the bottom, but the plug should not protrude beyond the edge of the frame.

Step 12. Painting

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that you should not paint the filling containers with oil paint: it clogs the pores, which contributes to rotting wood. It is desirable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, the barrel, flower tub can be treated with mordants.

Slaked lime mixed with 25% ammonia solution gives oak brown color. A black solution of ferrous sulfate or an infusion of iron filings in vinegar for 5-6 days.

A decoction of fragrant woodruff rhizomes (Asperula odo-rata) stains linden and aspen red. Red-brown color gives a decoction of onion peel, brown - decoction of walnut fertilizers. These dyes are both brighter than chemical ones and more stable.

It must also be remembered that wood is better preserved under a constant humidity regime. Therefore, dry goods should always be kept dry, and bulk goods filled with liquid. Both must not be placed directly on the ground. It is better to put a brick or a plank under the barrel than to get rid of the rot later by cutting the chimes.

But no matter how long the barrel may serve, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of the difficulties overcome in comprehending the secrets of the ancient craft of the cooper.

There are not so many cooper masters left today, but the tradition of making salting in tubs, or storing honey and wine in barrels, has remained in Russia to this day. It often happens that it is not possible, for one reason or another, to acquire a wooden container. Then you can make an oak barrel with your own hands. Even if this is not an easy task, however, if you set yourself a clear goal and observe all the features of the technology, you can make a completely decent wooden container for storing food and drinks. We will talk about how to make an oak barrel with your own hands below.

We make blanks

To make a container, you first need to pick up the material. If you want to store beekeeping products inside, pay attention to linden or aspen raw materials, plane trees. Good honey is stored in poplar, alder, willow barrels. An oak barrel is ideal for salting, souring, or soaking.

If you figured out the raw materials, you should choose an old tree. Its lower part is best for riveting. During harvesting, be sure to make sure that the churak is a couple of centimeters larger than the size of the future barrel. This stock is needed for sanding the edges.

The wood must be moist. Initially, the churak is split into 2 parts. For this, an ax and a small log are used, which are gently tapped on the butt. Each half is split in two again. Care must be taken that the separation is radial. They do the same with each subsequent half - the number of blanks depends on the diameter of the oak barrel. It is easy to prepare raw materials with your own hands, the main thing is accuracy. Please note that the blanks can have different widths, but this is not a big deal.

The rivets are dried indoors, where there is good natural ventilation. The term is not less than 1 month, and ideally even about 1 year. After drying, it is processed with special tools. This could be:

• plow;
• sherhebel;
• plane.

First, the outer side of the rivets is processed, be sure to check the degree of curvature using a previously prepared template. It can be cut from a thin board by attaching it to the finished product. After all the outer surfaces have been processed, you can proceed to the side ones. They are also aligned according to the template, and after processing, they are joined. The inner surface of the rivets is processed with a plane.

Rings

Both steel and wood can be used to make hoops. The latter option is less durable, so it is better to immediately give preference to metal. Hot rolled steel in the form of a strip is used for the hoops. Its width is about 3-5 cm, and its thickness is 0.16-0.2 cm.

You need to take a measurement at the place where the hoop will be pulled. After that, the width of the strip, doubled, is added to a certain value. With the help of a hammer, the workpiece is bent into a ring shape, and then holes are punched or drilled in it and rivets are placed. The material for them is a mild steel wire, the diameter of which is 0.4-0.5 cm. One of the inner edges of the hoop is necessarily flared with the pointed end of a hammer.

Assembly subtleties

Making oak barrels with your own hands takes patience. However, the result is worth the time and effort. So, to assemble a salting barrel, you need a flat surface. To get a finished barrel you need:

The skeleton does not need to be boiled or steamed before tightening, although there are those who insist on this. There are times when the workpiece can crack. Then experienced coopers replace it with a new one.

Bottom

To make the bottom, first you need to cut a groove from the bottom at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the end, its dimensions can be 0.4-0.5 mm. For this, a special tool is used - chime. On both sides of the groove, using a chisel, you need to make a chamfer from 0.1 to 0.2 cm.

The bottom is made of a special shield. It is assembled using metal studs or nails. Having drawn a circle, you need to step back from it by 1-1.5 cm and cut out the future bottom. After that, it is smoothed out with a sherhebel, and chamfers are cut off at the edges. As a result, the thickness of the rivets there will be no more than 0.3 cm. This ensures complete tightness of the structure.

To try on - loosen the bottom hoop and insert the bottom. It is inserted into the groove from one side, and from the other, it is adjusted with a hammer to the desired level by light tapping. With a tight stroke, you can loosen the hoop a little more, if it goes too freely, it is better to tighten the hoop.

Then the hoop is stuffed again, and the barrel is checked for leaks. For this, a little water is poured into it. If there is a flow between the rivets, you need to slightly reduce the bottom. If water seeps through the bottom or groove, you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the blanks.

Before installing the second bottom, make a hole in it, the diameter of which is no more than 3 cm, and make a cork for it. The correct dimensions assume that it will be slightly more than the thickness of the bottom and will not protrude beyond the frame. That's the whole sequence that you need to follow to make an oak barrel with your own hands.

Repairs

Can an old barrel be repaired? Of course. If an alcoholic drink has been stored in it for a long time, it is worth disassembling the structure and removing a layer about 2 mm thick from the tree. Further, the drink does not penetrate into the wood. After that, the rivets are processed and reassembled.

Do-it-yourself oak barrel repair can be done, even if it is leaking. To do this, you need to repeat the same manipulations as in the manufacture of containers - adjust the hoops.

Here it is, cooper business. You can make wooden products yourself, but this requires a lot of time and effort. But is it worth spending them if today it is possible to order via the Internet, on the website of the Russian Bondar company?

You can buy almost everything today. But a wooden barrel, really high-quality, solid, is quite difficult to find, and besides, it is expensive. There is one more point that not everyone takes into account - not the fact that the finished barrel is suitable for a specific purpose. The reason is the inconsistency of the wood species. The conclusion is unambiguous - to make a barrel yourself. And if you deal in detail with the drawings, the nuances of the work, then it will not turn out to be in any way difficult and impossible with your own hands.

Pine

• Elasticity, bending flexibility.
• Easily processed with a household tool.

• When the temperature rises, it will resin abundantly.
• A characteristic smell that will be present inside the barrel constantly.

Recommendation - these wooden barrels are not used for storing food or fermenting anything.

Juniper

Strength combined with ease of processing.

Great weight.

Recommendation - it is advisable to use for the manufacture of relatively small barrels for transportation (storage) of bulk materials.

Oak

• Bends well after the wood is well steamed.
• Contains fungicides that protect the barrel's structural elements from rotting.

High material cost. To make a high-quality barrel, you will have to use wood that is at least 80 - 100 years old.

Recommendation - if the barrel is intended for storing (fermenting) products, aging wines, and so on, then you should choose oak boards.

According to the reviews of those who have already made a wooden barrel with their own hands, it is possible to use such wood species as linden, ash, aspen, mulberry.

The choice of material is a rather specific question. If a barrel is needed to store stocks of wine (cognac, vodka), sourdough (pickling) of cucumbers, watermelons, apples, and so on, then the best tree for it is oak. This is undeniable. But spending such wood (given its cost) for making a container with your own hands in which it is supposed to store cement, sand, bulk products is hardly correct. For these purposes, other breeds are quite suitable, "simpler".

The procedure for calculating the parameters of the barrel

Based on its purpose and installation location, dimensions and design features are selected. In everyday life, there is some confusion with concepts. In principle, both the tub and the barrel are containers of a certain capacity, which are assembled by hand from separate boards (riveting, fret in the language of professionals). The only difference is geometry. Drawings explain everything well.

What is defined for a drawing:

• Barrel height
• Diameters (large and small).
• Bending angle of rivets and their number.

To simplify the calculations, it is advisable to focus on the typical data that are used by specialists in drawing up drawings of barrels.

Wooden barrel with your own hands - instructions

The algorithm of actions is clear from the figures, which indicate the main stages of work.

But separate explanations will not be superfluous.

Rivets can be made from logs or planks. The first option is preferable, although its implementation with your own hands is much more complicated. The fact is that only the lower part of the tree trunk, from roots to branches, is used to make a barrel. You will have to chop blocks (decks) yourself.

What is special?

• The ax blade must hit exactly in the center, along the center line. This will make the work a little easier and will allow you to get high-quality rivets in large quantities (per deck).

• Planks are obtained by splitting, cutting chunks. Wood processing is always carried out along the grain, not across.

It is advisable to prepare at least 2 - 3 spare rivets.Why, it will become clear when describing the order of assembling the barrel.

To facilitate bending, the rivets are given the wrong geometry. The thickness at the ends of each board should exceed the same parameter in the center by about 0.2. That is, if it is supposed to assemble a barrel of 10 mm boards with your own hands, then they are hewn with the expectation that their thickness in the lower and upper parts of the container is at least 12.

Drying rivets

Various sources indicate periods that are measured in months, or even years (up to 3). At this point, it is necessary to focus on local conditions, the initial and its porosity. Recommendations for artificially speeding up this process when doing work with your own hands are not entirely useful. Without practice, it is difficult to determine the optimal mode for the same electric / cabinet and the time of exposure of wood in it. Experienced craftsmen advise to wait until moisture naturally evaporates from the wood.

You just need to place it in a room with proper conditions - a temperature of at least +20 ºС and good ventilation. You may have to wait for 2 or 3 years. But a high-quality barrel “in one day” is not made, and this must be understood.

If we are talking about containers for household purposes, then you can dry the rivets even on the stove. But in any case, the barrel is not assembled from raw boards. After a couple of weeks (due to wood shrinkage), cracks will begin to appear between them. Checked.

Hoops

Finding metal strips, drilling holes for rivets with your own hands is easy. The only thing you should pay attention to is that it is better to take instrumental steel. It is characterized by increased tensile strength and corrosion resistance. If you pre-treat it with linseed oil, and then burn it (for example, with a blowtorch), you will get hoops of the original light brown shade.

Bottom

It is cut from a shield, which is assembled by hand from pre-prepared boards. Moreover, using a different technology than the frets (sidewalls). Their thickness does not change along the length. To ensure the tightness of the joints, the ends are milled, that is, the assembly is carried out according to the well-known principle "thorn-groove". In some cases, special (sealing) strips are installed.

Barrel assembly

The sequence of actions is shown in this figure.

This work is not done alone; 2 - 3 assistants will definitely be needed. The rivets are placed along the lower hoop with maximum fit. If the last board does not "fit" it should be trimmed slightly to size. This is where the spare ones will come in handy, because from the first, or even the second time, with your own hands, without experience, you may not be able to fit the “finishing” board. A little overkill with a sample of wood, and it will have to be rejected.

The penultimate stage - installing the bottom

And only after that the hoops are tightened (if they are adjustable) or their final planting in place (in height).

The last step is sanding the wood

How to process the barrel from the outside is decided on the spot ("skin" and manually, grinder / machine), but after that it is advisable to cover the container with beeswax (a thin layer). This will provide additional protection for the tree from external factors.

Good luck, novice coopers!

A do-it-yourself wooden barrel made with your own hands will not only save money, but also get a high-quality elegant product. Wood barrels were used by our ancestors for pickling, making alcoholic beverages and supplying water, which proved their versatility. Therefore, they are successfully used to this day. How to make a wooden barrel so that it is durable and does not leak? What tools and skills are required to make a barrel at home?

If you are determined to achieve your goal and are not afraid that you will have to modify the product to the desired state, then you can make your dream come true and make a wooden barrel yourself. Cooper is a difficult profession that has come to us from past centuries. Today there are few masters of this craft, and there are even fewer high-quality specialists in the manufacture of barrels, so barrels on free sale are a rarity, and the cost of the product is not affordable for everyone.

Tools

To make your first barrel or small barrel, you need to prepare a place in which it will be convenient to work, tools and suitable materials. In addition to the carpentry kit necessary for making a barrel with your own hands, you need to purchase cooper devices:

• carpenter's workbench, tailored for the manufacture of barrels;
• long jointer and circular hump plane;
• a device for planing edges on boards, from which a barrel will be assembled;
• equipment for tightening rivets (post gate, chain tie and frame gate);
• scraper, plow, staple;
• templates and patterns of our own production;
• clamps made of wood, metal (for assembling the skeleton of the barrel);
• chime - a device that allows you to cut a chime groove, where the bottom part is inserted.

You need to understand that it is quite difficult to acquire these tools, wood and accessories on the market, since almost all coopers make machines and layouts on their own, taking into account their height. This is done by trial, no instruction will help.

What you need to know

The main difference between cooperage products is the assembly from pre-prepared wooden boards (rivets). The size and shape of the barrel depends entirely on the pre-prepared boards, the configuration of which is set by the cooper. And the initial quality of wood barrels depends entirely on the selected wood. For this reason, the master does not have a thorough mastery of the instrument. It is necessary to know the intricacies of each type of wood from which wooden products will be made.

An experienced craftsman will not make a barrel for honey from oak blanks, because he knows that in such a container, honey will quickly acquire a completely different aroma and darken. But oak barrels cannot be substituted for aging wines and cognacs.

The second element is a hoop that ties together all the components of the barrel. It is thanks to the hoop that water does not seep through the joints between the boards. It can be made of metal or wood. As the experience of the craftsmen shows, metal hoops are much stronger, and less time is spent on manufacturing than on wooden ones. But some craftsmen still prefer a wooden hoop, giving the barrel a more beautiful look.

Details and the principle of manufacturing products

Many believe that becoming an amateur cooper is very difficult, and dreams never come true. But if you are not used to deviating from your decisions, then you need to decide which of the options will be your first job.

There are 3 types of products in total: conical, cylindrical and parabolic. Each corresponds to a certain type of rivets:

1. Products made in the form of a quadrangle, the long sides of which have the shape of a parabola, are used for dishes with convex edges: barrels or barrels.
2. The cylinder-shaped layout is simple. It is easy to make and connect with hoops of the same diameter, but when the wood dries up in such a structure, the rivets cease to fulfill their functions. This is the main reason why such containers are practically not made.
3. The shape of an elongated trapezoid allows you to get durable dishes when stuffing rivets. Therefore, this type of product is often suitable for making tubs, tubs and other utensils.

As an experimental prototype, it is better to stop at a simple small barrel.

Many people are interested in how a regular tub is made. The kadushka is the simplest cooper product, having achieved a result in its manufacture, you can switch to more complex types of dishes, for example, make a wooden barrel with your own hands.

The principle of creating a product consists of the following stages:

• production of blanks;
• assembly of dishes;
• finishing work.

The reliability of the structure will depend on the quality of the riveting blank, therefore, blanks from the logs of sawn wood, knocked out with an ax, are the most suitable. For barrels, oak is the most common wood choice as it splits easily radially. The process of harvesting rivets from different tree species is practically the same; a single-row or double-row method of punching is used. For large decks, a two-row method is used, and for thin chocks, only a single-row method is used.

The riveting procedure is as follows:

1. The ridge must be carefully split in half so that the split line is exactly in the center of the workpiece.
2. Each block must be split in two to get 4 equal parts.
3. Next, you need to split the wood for harvesting in half again to get 8 equal parts. This is usually enough for small blocks of wood. It is 1/8 that will become a riveting blank.
4. If the ridge is thick, a two-row punch is used, i.e. each of the 8 parts is split into 2 equal parts along the tree rings.
5. The resulting logs must be split radially. This will result in 1-2 smaller workpieces and 2-5 for larger workpieces.
6. Next, you need to cut off the wedge-shaped protrusions and young wood from the bark side. Only then can the workpiece be dried in an open area or artificially dried.

Making rivets

In order to make rivets from the prepared material, you should first prepare drawings and a template for a specific product in accordance with the desired shape. To get ready-made rivets, you will need:

1. Perform markup.
2. Rough each of the blanks. Namely, round off the outer surface, bevel the edges with an ax.
3. Finish with a planer, constantly checking the result with a template.
4. Sew the inside of the workpiece with a humpbacked scraper.
5. Cut narrow edges, then level their surface with a jointer.

In the process of making barrels, the cooper has to independently make tightening hoops. The easiest way to get a hoop is made of steel tape. To do this, you need to determine the diameter of the container and add double the strip width to the resulting figure. Next, using a hammer, you need to bend the tape with a ring, drill 2 holes and fasten them with rivets. To make a small barrel, you need 2 hoops, which will correspond to the diameter of the upper and lower parts of the product.

Bottom assembly and installation

1. Fold the edges of the boards, fix them on a workbench and divide the radius into 6 parts.
2. Mark the location of the studs within the circle.
3. Pull out the boards. Drill holes in the edges, drive wooden or metal studs into them.
4. Dock all the elements tightly and secure with pins, after which you can stitch the bottom.
5. Cut out the bottom, leaving a small margin.
6. Chamfer with a straight plow and knock off the hoop by loosening the rivets.
7. Insert the bottom into the chime and turn the tub upside down.
8. Plant the hoop.

It remains to make a lid for the tub and, having checked the structure for strength, start using the container. If the work done is to your liking, it makes sense to continue working on the manufacture of barrels.