Nothing replaces a mobile chest of drawers to help organize storage and tidy up your workshop. It can hold the tools you use often and are always close at hand, but can be easily stowed away or rolled up to your work area. Does it have any disadvantages?

Most of the massive and durable commercial models sell for exorbitant prices. But you can make such a chest of drawers yourself by taking a few sheets of birch plywood and available fittings. Customize it exactly to your needs and enjoy the delight of your own work every time you open the drawer.

Construction of the tool cabinet body

1. Begin by sawing out the parts of the upper case: side panels A, top and bottom panels B, and rear panel C according to the dimensions shown in the Material List. Sand all parts with 220 grit sandpaper.

Attach the side panels with screws to the top and bottom panels (fig. 2, photo A). After checking the rectangularity of the assembly, add a back wall and secure with screws.

2. Saw out drawer side D of the upper body. Apply glue to one edge of the part and glue to the bottom panel B, aligning from the front (Fig. 1).

3. Saw out the side panels E, the top and bottom panels F, the back panel G and the drawer side H for the lower case. Assemble the lower case in the same order as the upper one.

4. Saw four corner bosses from 25mm material and glue them from below to the corners of the bottom panel F (fig. 1).

While pressing the blank of the box wall against the wooden lining, adjust the position of the longitudinal stop to align the face of the blank with the outer side of the disc.
Since the cuts are not through, you can safely use the longitudinal stop as a limiter when forming grooves in the side walls J, K.
Sliding the longitudinal stop close to the disc, but without interfering with free rotation, saw the folds along the ends of the front and rear walls.

Make drawer parts

1. Saw out side panels J, K and front / back panels L, M for large and small boxes. Also prepare a 12 mm trim to set and set aside.

Quick tip! Do you want to add partitions? Make grooves 6 mm wide and 3 mm deep on the inside of the front and rear walls L, M. After assembling the boxes, insert strips of 6mm plywood into them.

2. Install a 6 mm thick typesetting groove disc and an anti-splinter in the saw. Attach a wooden strip to the longitudinal (parallel) stop. Raise the disc to a height of 6 mm and lock the rip fence 6 mm from the disc. Saw out the grooves on the side walls J, K (photo B and C, Fig. 2).

3. Slide the rip fence firmly against the disc, leaving a minimum clearance for the disc to be rotated by hand. Take the previously prepared test cut, saw out the fold along the edge and check how the formed ridge fits into the grooves of the side walls (Fig. 2a). If necessary, adjust the position of the longitudinal stop, then saw out the folds on the front and rear walls L, M (Fig. 2, photo D).

4. Saw out according to the indicated dimensions of the bottom N, O. Sand them and the inner sides of all walls J, K, L, M with sandpaper no. 220. Apply glue to the end ridges of the front and rear walls, as well as to the tongue for the bottom, then assemble the boxes ...

Quick tip! After gluing and fixing the boxes, measure their diagonals to make sure they are square. To eliminate the misalignment, adjust the pressure of the clamps until the diagonals are aligned.

Installation of boxes

1. Lay the large K / M / O drawer on its side. Place one sliding rail on the side wall K flush with the bottom and front edges and fix the narrow box part with screws (photo E). Quick tip! To fasten the rails to the drawers, screw the screws into the same oblong slot holes to facilitate further adjustment. After completing this operation with all the drawers, separate the body parts of the sliding guides.

2. Sharpen the strip to a thickness of 8 mm and saw off a 380 mm spacer from it. Then cut two additional spacers of the same length from 160mm and 59mm 6mm plywood.

Using an 8 mm strip, fix the lower pairs of rails to the side walls of both housings A, E (Fig. 3, photo F). Install the rest of the housing parts of the rails into the lower housing (photo G). Then do the same for the upper housing, but now insert a 59mm spacer between the rails to align the rails.

H. Cut out the false panels P, Q from 19 mm birch plywood. Saw off a 2 mm thick strip from the edge of the board and divide it into short pieces to use as spacers.

Insert small boxes J / L / N into the upper case. After gluing strips of double-sided tape on the back side, attach the false panels P to the front walls of the boxes, starting from the bottom (photo H). Then repeat the same steps with the drawers of the lower case.

4. Attach the brace handles by aligning them to the center of the P, Q files and panels (pnc. 2). Place the lower housing on the back wall and attach the 100mm wheel stands to the lugs I (fig. 5). Fasten the back panels C, G with screws.

The drawer parts of the rails are fixed to the side walls of the K with 12 mm cylinder head screws. Note the opening direction for correct installation of the second rail.

With an 8 mm strip underneath, align the housing part of the rail and screw it to the housing, backing 19 mm from the front.

Place a 160 mm wide strip of plywood on the bottom rail fixed to the side wall E and use it to locate the other two. Do the same on the opposite wall.

Attach false panels P, Q to the drawers with double-sided tape, inserting 2mm spacers to align the gaps. Mark and drill the mounting holes for installing the handles.

Make a tray and start finishing the cabinet

1. Saw out the brackets R, the base S and the panel of the tray T. Attach the brackets to the edges of the base with screws (Fig. 4). Saw out the sides U and make bevels at their ends, adjusting the length to the dimensions of the panel.

Glue the flanges into place flush with the underside of the panel. When the glue is dry, screw the T / U Tray to the R / S base assembly, aligning with the back. Finish the assembly with 220 grit sandpaper and screw it to the side wall of the K lower case (fig. 5).

2. After removing the slide rails and pull handles, apply the finishing coat. We applied polyurethane, applying three coats with a swab with intermediate sanding with 800 grit sandpaper. When the finish is dry, reinstall the hardware. Then clean up your workshop and store your tools in the drawers.

Do-it-yourself cabinet-chest of drawers for tools in the workshop - drawings

Every man strives to keep his tools in order. Not everyone has the opportunity to buy a special box to store them.

But some accessories can take up a lot of space. Therefore, many are interested in how to make a tool cabinet with their hands.

Such work will not take much time, the main thing is to stock up on all the necessary consumable tools and know the sequence of actions.

To assemble the cabinet you will need:

• Boards. The best option is pine. As for the quantity, then it is worth focusing on the desired size. The important point is the thickness of the material. The fact is that not only shelves are usually used in a closet, but also the walls themselves. Accordingly, if it is planned to place a heavy metal tool on the walls, then the board should be selected with the maximum.
• Plywood. This material is used to create partitions. It can also be used to make the back wall of the cabinet, if you do not plan to store heavy tools or use the wall as a "shelf". But for the bottom, such sheets are not suitable, since they do not withstand heavy loads. Again, the amount of plywood is determined by the size of the box and the partitions.
• Bar. It is best if it is from the same type of wood that was used in the boards. You will need it to equip the cabinet with legs or runners. The optimal size is 50x50.
• Metal corners. Here, only those elements are needed that are used in the construction of furniture, since they are distinguished by increased strength. If there is a desire to do with opening doors, then you should immediately take care of the hinges.
• Screwdriver. The tool will need the appropriate drills and bits.
• Electric saw or hacksaw.
• Furniture screws. But when buying them, you immediately need to attend to special nuts for them. It is advisable to opt for brass products, since this material has a high resistance to moisture. This is especially important for those who plan to place their wardrobe on the balcony.
• Self-tapping screws. These fasteners will be needed to secure the auxiliary fasteners. Here you can do with galvanized elements. But in addition, it is worth keeping nails on hand, although some recommend abandoning them, since it tends to dry out, which means that the fastening will weaken over time.

As soon as all the materials and tools are on hand, you can start working.

Phased build

To assemble a tool cabinet with your own hands, you need construction drawings.

You can create them yourself, or you can just find an interesting option on the Internet.

In the first case, a simple sketch will do.

The main thing is to determine for yourself the dimensions of the rear and side walls, as well as pay attention to the parameters of the cover and.

The main thing here is not to forget that when planning the shelves, it is worth remembering the thickness of the boards, which will "eat" a certain part of the space.

To create a box for tools, do the following:

• For the manufacture of legs, the timber is sawn into 4 identical cubes (50x50x50). It is recommended to fix them on runners made of the same material. The runners themselves are attached perpendicular to the sides of the cabinet, which indicate the length.
• Further, all wooden elements are processed. For such purposes, an antifungal solution is used. It will help protect the wood from decay and mold. As soon as the coating is dry, all parts are covered with a primer for wood, and when this layer is dry, they use Aquastop. BUT! These are carried out only with planed boards, and it is desirable that all materials be cut in advance into parts necessary in size.
• The first thing that goes into the closet is the frame. According to the drawing, the boards are adjusted according to the parameters, after which the side walls, bottom and lid are assembled. In the case of not wide elements, it is allowed to use two combined boards, but the main thing is to check the absence of gaps at the joints. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws. Thus, you should get an external frame with temporary fasteners.
• Now proceed to the main fixation. For these purposes, all docking places are fixed by means of furniture corners. Here, screws or nails are also used first. Next, the furniture screws and nuts are screwed in, having previously drilled the appropriate holes in the right places. The hardest part is drilling holes at the end of the stroke in the shelves, lid and bottom. As a result, it turns out that their ends will have drilled holes. IMPORTANT! The length of the drill is matched to the length of the screw.
• Now proceed to the legs. A bar is attached to the bottom of the box, on the back side, like runners. There is no need for heavy-duty fasteners, so you can get by with simple self-tapping screws. Further, pre-prepared legs are mounted to them in the corners.
• As for the boxes, this work is carried out by knocking down a frame of the desired shape and size, where the bottom is nailed from below. If shelves are needed, cuts are made from the inside, where partitions will be installed. They can be made from plywood.

If desired, you can attach it to such a box, after which the entire product is varnished.

Positioning the tools

Above, it was described how to create a simple box, but in order to be convenient to use, its internal space must be ergonomic. For such purposes, shelves, drawers and hanging hooks are organized. This question can be solved in this way:

• Upper compartment. To create shelves, you can use all the same boards that are fixed inside the frame. It is permissible to fix them on ready-made hooks or by drilling holes in the ends (from the outside of the box), and put them on self-tapping screws. These shelves can easily support the weight of small tools or boxes of nails and screws.
• Bottom part. For convenience, it is best to make only one shelf in the lower compartment. You can put more massive tools on it. If you wish, you can install a folding table here.

There is also an option for mounting tools on the walls. It should be said right away that all heavy elements should be located in the central part, but lighter tools are hung on the doors (if any).

Usually, hinges, nails or other elements are used for this, but boxes can also be placed. So that they always remain in their places, they are planted on glue or on self-tapping screws.

The quantity and shape of the inner filling of the box directly depends on the needs. The more building material there is, the more shelves and compartments you need to create.

Improving the toolbox

Depending on where the cabinet with tools will be located, on the balcony or in the closet, you can make it yourself with your own hands. This will greatly improve the usability. There are several options for resolving this issue.

For those who are versed in electricity, you can offer an automatic backlight. In the box, they mark future lighting fixtures and cut holes for them so that it is possible to install the base.

It is desirable that the product is already in place, since the next step will be the choice of the length of the electric cable. It is fixed with screws on the wall or ceiling, after which it is placed in the lid and closed. This is followed by the serial connection of the backlight to the cable - first the phase, then "zero".

IMPORTANT! Any work with wires and other elements is carried out only with the electricity off. Now the lamps are screwed into the base and checked.

Halogen lamps. This option is suitable for a large drawer to illuminate its shelves. Typically, these kits are sold in ready-made kits, consisting of:

• switch
• transformer
• halogen lamps
• connector
• wires

Initially, the lighting is marked, after which holes (0.5 cm) are made with an electric drill with a cutter. After that, the cutter is turned over and the points are completed.

If this is not done, there is a risk that the tool could be seriously damaged, which will necessitate altering the shelf or door.

According to the diagram, on the floor, all the elements are connected into a single chain, after which the lamps are connected to the transformer and the operation is checked. For parallel connection, use blocks and terminals.

In order for such a backlight to work fully, it is worth remembering the following important points:

• the power indicators of the transformer must be 5% higher than the total power of the lamps themselves
• minimum power at the output of the transformer - 12 volts
• pay attention to the indicators of the operating voltage of the lamps themselves
• for the backlight to work well, the maximum length should not exceed 2-3 m
• the transformer is mounted in such a place that it does not heat up from other sources (battery, heater, etc.)

LED Strip Light.

Perhaps the easiest way to equip your toolbox with light.

But this does not mean that such light will be ineffective.

LED tapes are sold in spools, and you can buy a certain footage or take one coil, in which 5 meters are immediately measured.

Additionally, you still need a plug and a wire to connect everything to the mains, as well as a power supply and a controller.

The work has the following stages:

• first, the unit is connected to the cable, and then the controller is also connected to the power supply
• 4 multi-colored wires of the controller are connected with similar colors on the tape using a soldering iron or terminal blocks
• to check, connect the plug to the outlet and see if all the lights are on
• each tape on the back has an adhesive base, which is covered with a protective film - gradually removing it, the tape is glued in the necessary places for lighting the box

If you wish, you can purchase a multi-colored ribbon. As for the strength of lighting, it all depends on the density of the bulbs per square meter. m. - the more there are, the brighter the light.

It's actually not that difficult to make lighting in the toolbox.

A homemade box is so simple that even a novice master can handle it. The main plus is that there is no need to use expensive tools. But there are a number of recommendations that will greatly facilitate the operation of such a product:

• do not immediately equip the entire space with shelves, as over time it may become necessary to expand it
• when there are many heavy tools in the house for which the cabinet is being built, then it needs to be additionally reinforced with aluminum corners
• a portable box is always convenient, since it is possible not only to change its location, but also to take it with you to the country
• in case of self-production, even at the stage of drawings, you can safely add any functional department

A toolbox with your own is not only an organized storage place for your tools, but also a reason to be proud of yourself.

How to make a tool cabinet yourself, you can watch the video:

Tools are available in any home. Especially if there is a man in him who loves and knows how to make something with his own hands. Some people ask the question: “ Why do you need a tool cabinet, you can put them anywhere? " But this question is asked by people who do not want or do not know how to make various things at home. The home craftsman knows that a tool cabinet is a must.

The hammer, screwdriver and pliers, which are often used for basic work, can be placed anywhere. But a lot of tools require a good and handy cabinet. It should contain the entire instrument and, moreover, not take up too much space. For these purposes, wardrobes, bedside tables, chests are adapted. You can, of course, use all of this. On tool storage cabinet it's not difficult to do. Every home master can do it.

So, how to organize a tool cabinet

There is a good option for such furniture, which is a wardrobe with two doors. The doors swing open, and in the middle of the cabinet there is a folding table. Separate lighting can be mounted in the cabinet. When closed, it takes up very little space, so it can also be installed in a small city apartment. The easiest way to make such a cabinet is from wood.

To do tool cabinet wooden, you will need:

• pine boards (thickness 20-25 mm);
• plywood (thickness 10-12 mm);
• wooden bars (section 40X40 mm, or 50X50 mm);
• hacksaw, hammer, nails (30-60 mm), screws (30-60 mm).
• metal corners (100-150 mm and 80 mm);
• hinges (120 mm) and other accessories.

Before you start making a cabinet, you need to decide on its location in the house, with dimensions. For example, there is free space. Two meters along the wall. If the central part of the cabinet is 100 cm wide, then the doors should be 50 cm each. When they open, they will take up these 2 meters of free space. The height, for example, will also be 2 meters.

Now you need to take the prepared lumber and cut it to size. The back of the cabinet, as well as the back (and at the same time, the front) of its swing-open doors can be made of thick plywood. The side walls are made of planks. The boards can be connected together with metal corners.

It turns out, as it were, three identical rectangular boxes. Now the challenge is to hinge or hinge the sashes to the central part so that they can be opened and closed with ease. But, before doing this, you need to fix the central part of the product on the wall. High-quality fasteners are important here, since, given that the table will be reclined in the cabinet, there will be a large load. You need to fix it directly to the wall using metal corners. The corners are attached to the boards. Holes are pre-drilled in the wall into which chopiki are hammered.

After the central part of the product is fixed, you can mount the table. It is a wooden board that hinges down to the bottom of the cabinet. Below, on the table top, 1 or 2 folding legs are fixed. Also hinged. Door hinges can be used. But they must be massive enough and firmly fixed. The table should not be too large, so as not to increase the load on the cabinet.

The next stage of work will be the fastening of the opening sashes. They need to be tailored so that they run smoothly and fit perfectly. To fix the sash open on the wall, you can provide special clamps.

Tool holder

Now you need to provide for fastening tools. Of course, all heavy tools should be located in the central part, which is securely fixed to the wall. You can make shelves, hinges, and other fasteners. Lighter things are located in the doors, as moving parts. For example, you can fix metal or plastic boxes with different little things on them. Nails, bolts, etc.

Lighting installation

Of course, you can also install a portable desk lamp with a clothespin attachment. But it is much better to have separate lighting for such a cabinet. You can also provide an outlet located so that you can conveniently turn on the power tool there. You can even run a separate line from the electrical panel. The line must be connected via an emergency shutdown circuit breaker.

Well, cabinet for tools ready. It remains only to pay attention to the exterior decoration, so that when closed, it fits into the interior of the room. And fit in well. Do not forget about the door handles. If there are small children in the house, a latch or lock can be provided.

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This handy cabinet was designed according to the requirements:
✔ the depth should be sufficient for storing most portable power tools
✔ there should be an additional sash inside that increases the usable area for tools,
✔ internal shelves should be rearranged, both wide and narrow;
✔ the drawer must be fully extended;
✔ it should be possible to install an additional shelf

The main parts of the cabinet are made of wood 20 mm thick. For strength, the legs are glued. The cabinet body is assembled from plywood 20 mm thick. This makes it easy to attach the tool holders.

Almost every centimeter of its volume has been used in the cabinet, and I hope it will last for many years. Each leg is glued from three 20 mm thick blanks, i.e. 12 blanks in total. Each pair of legs is connected by jumpers (groove / tenon).

The grooves in the legs are formed during gluing by means of grooves in the middle workpiece. Each pair of legs is connected by jumpers, between which there is a longitudinal brace.

When assembling the base, you must first glue the two-leg / two-bridge subassemblies. Spacer C is filed to its final length and fixed with glue and screws between the subassemblies.

Drawer for tools

To get more space for storing tools between the legs of the base, a large drawer is provided with free access to its contents.

The walls of the box are connected “in a quarter”, the bottom of the box is made of 6 mm fiberboard.

Before gluing the drawer in the front wall 0, I drilled and countersunk the holes for attaching the false panel, which I added later.

Installation of a drawer. I assembled the drawer, attached the drawer and set the drawer.
It is easier to do this BEFORE attaching the false panel. The installed box should be 3 mm below the upper ends of the legs.

False panel.Having installed the drawer, I sawed out to size the false panel G. To hide the drawer, the false panel is 1.5 mm higher than it and should stand between the legs with a 1.5 mm gap on each side.

Before installing the false panel, I drilled and countersunk the pilot holes, then attached the handles. To align the false panel, I used double-sided tape.

Housing Having finished the base, we move on to the body - a simple rectangular box connected "in a quarter". The main requirement for the body is that it must be large enough to accommodate hand-held power tools.

The manufacture of the body begins with sawing out the side walls H, the lid and the bottom I of the final length and width. I made it easier for myself - they are all the same size. Then I sawed out the width of the partition J longitudinally. I made it a little longer, since it is inserted into the body after assembling it

Adding overlays.To hide the edges of the plywood, according to the actual thickness of the plywood, I cut out the K pieces and glued them to the leading edges of each plywood piece.

Sawing folds.The body is assembled on a quarter connection. For the rear wall L, I saw out the folds in the trailing edges of all the body parts (except for the partition). For the lid and the bottom, I sawed out a fold on the side walls of N.

Drilling holes. On both sides of the partition, I wanted to install relocatable shelves. Therefore, before assembling the case, on each side of the partition and on the INNER SIDES of the side walls, H marked and drilled holes for the pins of the shelves.
The shelves on the left side are narrower (smaller) than on the right. Therefore, the holes on the sides of the baffle are offset.

Assembly of the case. The body can now be assembled. First, I glued and nailed the side panels to the lid and bottom. Then he glued the back wall L into the folds, which he sawed out of 20 mm plywood.

The wall gives the hull strength and helps to keep it rectangular. In addition, it forms the basis for tool holders. When the back wall is glued and nailed into place, you can cut out the J divider to size and insert it between the lid and the bottom.

I attached the divider to the cover, bottom and back wall with screws. Although it could be inserted into the grooves. But the baffle is not as wide as the body, so all grooves would have to end. before reaching the leading edges of the bottom and lid.

To install the partition in the case, I went for a little trick. First, I put the body on its side. Then I sawed out four inserts and put a partition on them so that it was parallel to the side walls, while gluing and screwing the partition to the lid, bottom and back of the case.

A little more pin

Shelves The shelves are slightly different from those found in most cabinets. In the edges of the shelves, grooves are selected with which the shelves slide over the pins. If the shelves are not permanently on the shelves, the grooves hold the shelves in place better than if they were lying directly on the pins.

I wanted to have relocatable shelves, but I didn't want them to look relocatable. Therefore, I cut out the grooves BEFORE gluing the overlays K. They closed the edges of the plywood, and along with the grooves.

Cutting out shelves. When I planted, I sawed out the shelves M and N so that they went into the bodies with a gap of about 1 mm on the sides. Then I sawed a 6mm groove along both edges of each shelf for Ø6mm pins. To do this, I adjusted the ruler so that the circular disc was slightly offset. Then, after the first pass, he deployed the shelf and made a second pass. If the Ø6 mm pin fits very tightly into the groove, adjust the ruler and make a couple more passes.

Having cut the grooves, I glued overlays K to the front edges of the shelves. Then, to install the shelves, I inserted pins 20 mm long into the holes and put the shelves in place.

Assembly Before hanging the sash, I attached the body to the base. The connecting element between them is a frame, the details of which are connected "on the mustache". And as a decorative touch, I added the same frame to the case lid.

Cutting out frames... To make the frames, I sawed three parts O and four side parts P longitudinally in width. The upper frame on the body has no back part Then I sawed off the details of the frame "on the mustache" along the length. Front / back parts - 25 mm longer than the base width. And the side pieces are 12 mm longer than the base depth. The ends of the upper side parts are flush with the rear wall of the case.

Keyed connections. First, I attached a base frame. To keep the mustache connections strong, I reinforced the connections with dowels. The base frame can now be glued. When the glue dried, I rounded off the edges of the front and side parts with a cutter.

Fixing the base frame. The frame is attached to the base and the body above it with screws. Drilled all pilot holes and set the frame in place so that the trailing edge was flush with the base and the overhangs on the sides were the same. Then I attached the frame to the base and to the body (only for the front and rear frame parts).

Installing the housing frame. The frame on the case cover is slightly different from the frame on the base. Firstly, it does not have a back part, but only a front and two side ones. In addition, the mustache connections of the frame parts are not reinforced with dowels. I just glued and screwed the top frame to the body.

Inner sash Before making the outer flaps on the left side of the case, I added an inner flap smaller than the outer one. It does not cover anything, but only provides additional space for placing hand tools.

Sawing out. First of all, I sawed out the inner flap Q to size. Then I glued the cover K to the outer edge of the inner sash and rounded its edges with a cutter.

Loop board The inner flap is held by a piano hinge. But the hinge is not screwed to the sash, but to the hinge plate R 100 mm wide. The flap is glued into a groove in the middle of the board. With this design, the flap can be locked in the closed position with a magnetic catch that does not interfere with the piano hinge.

Sash hinge. With the hinge board glued on, I attached the flap to the body on a piano hinge. Then, I drilled a hole in the partition, glued the retainer magnet into it. Then he attached the retainer plate to the board.

External sashes It remains to make the outer flaps, assembled at the "shortened tongue / groove" connection.

Cutting out racks and jumpers. First, I sawed out the S, T and U-pillar lintels to size, providing a 1.5 mm gap at the bottom and lid, as well as between the leaves. Then, on the details of the frame, I sawed out grooves 11 mm deep and spikes.

Adding a panel. After collecting both frames dry, I cut the V panel out of plywood, adding a 10mm perimeter allowance for the spikes.

Sawing grooves. The thorns on the panels of the doors are of different shoulders. I wanted to add a decorative groove to the front of the sash. To do this, the front fold of the cleat is wider than the rear one, I did it in two stages. First I sawed 10mm folds on BOTH sides of the panel. Then I cut an additional 1.5 mm only on the front side. This way I have reduced the chance of chipping on the front side. The sash can now be assembled and the handles attached.

Sash hinge. The doors are hung on piano hinges. Then, in order to fix them in the closed position, for each sash in the lid and bottom of the case, I fixed two magnetic clips.

Finishing I usually coat my pieces with water-based varnish for two reasons. Firstly, the varnish is easy to use - you just need to rub it in with a brush, let it soak in and wipe off the excess. Moreover, this coating is easy to repair. If the finish looks frayed or deep scratches appear on the surface, you just need to clean the surface and apply a new coat of varnish.

Tool holders With a little ingenuity, the scraps can be used to make tool holders that can be conveniently hung in cupboards or on the wall.

Hacksaw To avoid damaging the teeth of the hacksaw, I hung it up by the handle. The holder was made along the inner contour of the handle. To do this, I traced the inner contour of the handle on a piece of wood equal to the thickness of the saw handle, then cut it out and cleaned it.

The saw is fixed on the holder with a latch attached with a screw.

A hammer The most convenient way to hang the hammer is to support the head on two dowels. But it is better to fasten the dowels not to the door, but to a small wooden block, and already attach it with screws to the door. It may seem that the block is an unnecessary detail. But the block has a plus - it is easier to determine the position of the holes and drill them at an angle than in a large plywood door.

Files To store the files, I made a small shelf from which they cannot fall out. First, the file must be lifted and only then it can be pulled out. When making the shelf, I first drilled large holes with a depth of 6 mm. When the files are inserted into the through holes, the tapered handles will lock into place by themselves. To cut out the cracks, I first drilled small through holes and then removed the excess wood with a hacksaw.

Samuel Quertifeld, USA
Based on materials from the magazine "SAM"

In any apartment, it is periodically necessary to fix something, to repair, to make some devices with your own hands. In this case, you will probably need different working tools and materials for repairs. To prevent all this from cluttering the room, it is better to use boxes or a special cabinet.

DIY tool cabinet making

The cabinet intended for the purpose of storing tools should be small and with shallow drawers (so that all tools fit in one row).

Materials and tools

In order to make a convenient and functional cabinet, you will need the following consumables:

1. Wooden boards. Pine boards are considered the best option. Naturally, they should be of good thickness so as not to bend under the weight of metal tools.
2. Plywood sheets. They are used to create partitions in such furniture, and for the back wall. It should be borne in mind that this is a fragile material, so it will not work for making the bottom of the box.
3. The bar is used to make the legs.
4. Specialized corners for fasteners are used to make the structure more durable.
5. Screwdriver, drills and bits.
6. Furniture screws, which must have special nuts.
7. Self-tapping screws with which auxiliary fasteners will be made. Galvanized self-tapping screws are recommended.

Important! The drawing for creating such a cabinet is done quickly, for it a small amount of data is enough. When creating a drawing, you must take into account the dimensions of the side and rear walls, shelves and the pallet. You also need to find out what the thickness of the shelves will be.

Step-by-step assembly of the tool cabinet

Wood is a vulnerable material, therefore, before starting work, wooden parts are treated with a special solution against fungi and bacteria. Also, the tree needs to be coated with a primer.

Before assembling the structure, you need to carefully study its diagram. You need to assemble such furniture according to the instructions, paying attention to the smallest details, because the safety of the future product depends on it.

Before assembly, the floor is checked for evenness, and if the surface is not even enough, it must be straightened. Only then does the installation of the cabinet begin.

The assembly of such a structure for tools is done in this way:

1. First, the back wall is installed, which is often made of hardboard.
2. Then they make a frame and check it for strength and stability. After that, the internal filling of such furniture begins. Holes must be drilled on the parts, into which the shelves are attached using self-tapping screws.
3. A rod is attached to special flanges. Later, drawers and drawers are inserted into the product.
4. The final stage of work is the installation of door leaves. Particular attention must be paid to the installation of a mirrored door.

Important! If you plan to assemble a wardrobe, then it is better to carry it out when all the parts are horizontal. The back wall must be attached around the entire perimeter with screws, the last stage of assembly is to install the cabinet in the place where it will stand constantly.

How to properly arrange the tools in the cabinet

There are different ways to arrange tools in such a cabinet. Plastic containers can be used to store small tools such as tools, bolts, and nuts.
In order to store screwdrivers, craftsmen make a narrow shelf out of wood, and holes are created in it.

A wooden stand on the wall of the structure is suitable for storing screwdrivers and pliers.

A metal rod can be hung under the ceiling, with which paint brushes are stored. A special rack is used for storing wrenches. Aerosol paint - open wooden cabinet.

Sometimes a pallet is installed in cabinets for storing garden tools. And for a power tool, a simple wooden block is often used, on which metal hooks are suspended.
If the walls of the structure are equipped with shelves and hooks, then using this system you can perfectly place all the tools. Magnetic tape is suitable for storing small items.