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How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling - 4 proven options

Plastic decoration now has both supporters admiring its beauty and practicality, and opponents who believe that artificial materials have no place in the house. I'm not going to philosophize on this topic now, but if you need to finish the ceiling quickly, inexpensively and with good results, then plastic is a worthy choice. In this material, I will try to describe in detail how to properly attach PVC panels to the ceiling in four proven ways, and you yourself can choose what suits you best.

I must say right away that the fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling in all four methods is not much different. In this case, it will be about creating a base for such a coating. But first, let's figure out the preparation for the main process.

Things to consider when preparing

Before going to the store, please note that there are PVC panels for the ceiling and there are plastic panels for the walls. If everything is correctly mounted, then in appearance they will look exactly the same.

The differences lie in the characteristics. The lining for the ceiling is traditionally made lighter and thinner, so as not to load the suspension with extra pounds. At the same time, the wall cladding is able to withstand higher mechanical and point loads.

Of course, you can safely attach both ceiling and wall panels to a good base. But consider if you need extra strength on the ceiling. After all, no one will touch him with elbows and the claws of pets will not reach there either. But you will have to pay more money, because the price of wall plastic is at least 30% higher.

Now a few words about what panels are. Without going deep into the jungle, 2 main directions can be distinguished: these are seam and seamless panels.

Suture panels, for their external similarity, in everyday life are also called plastic clapboard, as a rule, they are cheaper. But not every interior is suitable.

In most cases, people prefer to clad the ceilings of residential premises with seamless panels with a glossy finish. Naturally, on closer examination, the connecting seam is not difficult to notice. But believe me, such ceilings look much more spectacular.

The width of the standard panels ranges from 250 to 500 mm. The length, depending on the specific model and manufacturer, can range from 2.7 to 6.0 m. Of course, there is also a plastic lining with a width of 100 to 200 mm, but I do not recommend it to you, since it looks rather mediocre on the ceiling.

And don't forget the fittings. If you limit yourself only to the ceiling, then you will need a ceiling plinth to equip the perimeter. There is a small nuance here: when the walls are even, it is better to take a specialized decorative plastic skirting board with an assembly groove.

If there is a “wave” along the wall, then this curvature will be too noticeable against the background of an even plinth. In this case, I recommend taking a regular U-shaped starter profile, and in addition to it, glue a flexible vinyl ceiling plinth on top.

Among such accessories there is also an H-shaped docking profile. Even if you are not going to dock anything, I recommend that you take at least one bar in stock. It costs a penny, but it can help out well if you have to repair some segment of the ceiling.

We equip the base

As I said, the fastening of the panels to the base is carried out the same everywhere. It is much more important to prepare this very foundation well. In general, there are 4 types of bases for such a cladding:

1. Metal frame assembled from UD and CD profiles;
2. Wooden frame;
3. Installation of panels on plastic guides with movable cleats;
4. Bonding panels directly to the ceiling.

Option number 1. We collect the iron frame

The frame made of galvanized profiles is the most reliable, strong and durable option for lining the ceiling. Of course, the arrangement of such a structure, in comparison with all other foundations, takes time and financial investments.

But take my word for it, the metal frame is worth the sacrifices. After all, if one day you get tired of plastic, then you can dismantle it with your own hands in a couple of hours. But instead of it, you can already install whatever you want, drywall sheets, MDF panels, wooden lining and many other worthy facing materials.

I am sure that you have seen such constructions more than once, but you probably thought that it was too difficult, at least until I mastered this science myself, I thought that way. Do not worry, there is nothing that would require fundamental knowledge in the field of construction. If you are not afraid of a drill, a screwdriver and a grinder, then this instruction is quite within your reach.

In fact, the only drawback of a suspended metal frame is that it will make your ceiling lower by at least 5 - 7 cm. For homeowners with ceilings of 3m and higher, this detail often does not play any role. But the owners of the Khrushchev houses have something to think about.

Any such structure is assembled from 2 types of galvanized metal profiles. This is the so-called UD profile, in the domestic marking PN (guide profile), and CD profile, in our classification PP (ceiling profile).

In addition to the profiles themselves, you will also need metal perforated suspensions and, of course, the "Quick Installation" dowel or anchor, it already depends on the type of base. Metal profiles and suspensions are fixed between each other using small metal screws. Popularly they are called flea beetles or bugs, who are used to it.

By the way, we will also fix the plastic cladding on self-tapping screws 4.2x16 mm. My advice to you, take at least 100 - 200 pieces at once, they will not be superfluous on the farm.

When purchasing material for such work, you need to take at least 10% more. This 10% usually goes to pruning, marriage and other unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it's always best to keep a small margin in case of emergency repairs.

From the obligatory tool, you will need a screwdriver and a drill or perforator. Metal profiles can be cut with a grinder, but, for example, it is more convenient for me to work with metal scissors.

It's good if you have a laser level, but this is a professional tool and the price is fantastic. Therefore, a hydro level is often used instead.

Do not confuse a water level and a normal building level. A hydrolevel is called a long transparent tube into which water is poured; this device works on the principle of communicating vessels and has flasks with graduations at the edges. His price is not high, so it's better to buy, it won't be superfluous.

• Naturally, work on the installation of any frame begins with a marking... In this case, we will need to find in which direction the ceiling is "filled up". The fact is that all ceilings seem to be strictly horizontal, only until you start measuring them. In 90% of cases, there are definitely drops in the corners. And we need to find the lowest corner. This is where the laser or hydro level comes in handy;

• Having found the "obstructed" corner, you need to measure 50 mm down from it, this will be the level of the plane of our future ceiling. When constructing suspended ceilings of this type, 50 mm is the minimum, but if the installation of a heater is planned on the ceiling or any communications pass through it, then the depth can be made even more;
• Further, starting from the marked corner, it will be necessary to transfer this horizon to the whole room... This is where the hydro level comes in handy again. It will be necessary to mark adjacent points in the corners, then rub the cord with chalk, pull it along the wall between the marking points and beat off the horizontal;
• The UD (PN) profile will be installed along this horizontal, it will pass along the lower cut of the profile... The profile itself is attached to the wall with “Quick Installation” dowels or with anchors with a step of about 60 - 80 cm. Moreover, so that both of its wings are directed towards the inside of the room, since later we will insert the CD (PP) profile into this groove;
• Now let's talk about how to attach a CD (PP) profile, we will have it as the basis for PVC panels... Again, you first need to mark the installation locations of the bearing profiles;

Remember, the supporting profile and PVC panels should be perpendicular to each other, and it doesn't matter what the profile is made of, metal, wood or plastic. By the way, not only plastic is mounted this way, any longitudinal panels, be it MDF, lining or siding, are also attached perpendicular to the guides.

• As I already said, the CD (PP) profile will be inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD (PN) profile, but one such attachment is not enough, therefore the CD (PP) profile will still need to be hung on perforated hangers from the ceiling;
• Perforated hangers are attached to the ceiling with the same “Quick Installation” dowels or anchor bolts... But in order for them to pass clearly above the CD (PP) profile on the ceiling, an even line should be beaten off with a coated cord;
• After marking, you can proceed to the installation of suspensions according to this marking... For plastic, it is enough to install suspensions at a distance of 80 cm. But I usually mount them more often, at a distance of about 60 cm. This is in case the owners then want to sheathe the ceiling with a heavier material instead of plastic, for example, MDF panels or clapboard;

• Then everything is simple. Insert the CD (PP) profile into the grooves of the UD (PN) profile, bend down the wings of the perforated hangers and fix the structure with small screws at all points of contact. That's all, your frame is ready and you can start installing plastic panels on it.

Option number 2. We mount a wooden lathing on the ceiling

Compared to the above described option, it is much easier to install a wooden crate. But it has both its pros and cons.

Among the advantages, one can point out the ease of installation and the lower cost of the structure. A wooden frame will cost you more than 2 times cheaper than a metal one.

But it is highly undesirable to mount wood in wet rooms, for example, in services. Modern impregnations will still protect against mold and mildew, but in this case there is no protection from deformation during temperature and humidity changes.

There is one more nuance here, perfectly flat dry bars are expensive. And if you take the budget option, then almost all the strips are slightly crooked. Accordingly, to bring such a frame to mind, you have to tinker a lot. The section of the bar starts from 25x25 mm, if you take it thinner, it can crack.

In this case, the wooden bars of the frame are attached directly to the ceiling, on self-tapping screws or anchors with a step of 60 - 80 cm. According to the rules, it is also necessary to display the plane strictly according to the level.

But if the ceiling is visually even, then you can simply stuff the sheathing bars on it and not bother with zeroing. After all, if a slight curvature was not visible before the beginning of the cladding, then it will not be noticeable after its completion.

If there are large defects on the ceiling, then wooden wedges will help you here. Personally, I, according to the level, are strictly horizontal, using wedges, at first I set 2 extreme strips.

After that, between them I pull 3 nylon cords (along the edges and in the center) and already along these cords I install the rest of the battens. The distance between the slats of the wooden lathing is maintained in the area of \u200b\u200bhalf a meter.

Option number 3. Installation of plastic lathing

Plastic lathing is a very convenient and very durable thing. But the problem is that it will cost no less than installing a metal frame. At the same time, you can fix only plastic PVC panels on such a base. No other facing material can be hung on it.

The plank of such a crate is a U-shaped profile with edges bent inward. The clamps move along such a kind of guide, with the help of which the plastic panel is actually fixed.

They are attached to the ceiling according to the same principle as the wooden lathing. Only in comparison with wood, plastic is less durable and if you have to use wooden wedges for, then fastening screws or anchors are driven into the ceiling precisely through the wedge.

This is important, because if the fixation point is in a different place, then in the event of deformation of the wooden wedges, the expensive planks of the plastic lathing can crack.

The big advantage of this type of lathing is not only that the plastic is easy and quick to mount on it, if necessary, you can also quickly disassemble this entire structure.

Moreover, both the plastic panels and the battens will remain in their original form, and all this beauty can also be collected in another place.

Option number 4. "Liquid nails" to help you

The vast majority of ceilings in urban apartments are reinforced concrete floor slabs. And if you putty the joints between these plates well, then you will get a perfectly flat ceiling.

It is not necessary to mount any kind of lathing on it; to such a base, plastic panels can simply be glued onto construction glue called "Liquid nails". Theoretically, you can take another glue, but as far as I have come across, this one is used.

Working with Liquid Nails glue has its own characteristics and it is better to take them into account, especially when it comes to ceiling work. If you just grease the panel with glue and press it against the ceiling, then in this position you will have to stand and wait for the glue to set for at least half an hour. Agree, the prospect is not bright.

You need to act differently:

• After the panel is greased with glue, it is pressed against the ceiling so that the glue spreads and immediately comes off;
• Then this panel is set aside and kept for 5 - 7 minutes;
• And only after that the plastic will easily, quickly and firmly adhere to the ceiling.

"Liquid nails" glue, of course, is good, but in order for it to firmly set on a concrete base, this very base should be primed. As a rule, 2 layers of standard "Betonkontakt" deep penetration soil are enough.

Of course, gluing panels on reinforced concrete floor slabs is a quick, simple and inexpensive way, and most importantly, it does not make the ceilings lower. But I think you understand that it will not work to dismantle such a cladding without damaging it. This is essentially a one-off option.

Technique for mounting plastic panels

Now it's time to talk about how to attach plastic panels to the ceiling. Regardless of the length, width and thickness, all these panels are connected according to the tenon-groove principle.

But first, you need to fix the starting profile around the perimeter of the room, into which the plastic panels will be inserted. Above, I have already mentioned that if the walls of the room are even, then it makes sense to use a plastic ceiling plinth with an assembly groove as a starting profile.

Fastening a ceiling plinth with a mounting groove is carried out in the same way as fixing the plastic panels themselves. I.e:

• If you have a metal frame, then the plinth is attached to it with self-tapping screws;
• A plinth or a starting profile can be screwed onto a wooden frame with self-tapping screws, or you can “shoot” a construction stapler with staples;
• It is fixed on plastic guides with clamps;
• Well, to a flat ceiling, it is simply glued to the "Liquid nails".

Both in the skirting board with an assembly groove and in the U-shaped starting profile, the lower support strip is specially made wider. It is in this expansion that self-tapping screws or staples of a construction stapler are driven.

When the starting profile is mounted, you can start installing the plastic panels themselves. The first panel is inserted with a spike inside the starting profile, and on the reverse side, the lower edge of the groove is fixed on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or cleaimer.

The next plastic panel is mounted in the same way. We insert the spike of the new panel into the groove of the previous one, press it against the guides and fix it at the back. As you can see, the instructions are extremely simple.

But most novice craftsmen often have a problem with how to fix the last panel to the ceiling. This issue can be solved simply:

• First, we measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the edge of the starting profile, from this value we fold 5 - 7 mm and cut off our extreme panel;
• Then we start the end panel with a cut into the starting profile, until it stops. As a result, the panel will become flush with the previous one;
• And now we are carefully trying to push the thorn of our trimmed panel into the groove of the previous one. As a rule, after several attempts, everything falls into place.

The depth of a U-shaped starting profile or a skirting board with a mounting groove fluctuates in the region of 10 - 20 mm, so the gap between the edge of the skirting board and the trimmed strip will not be visible.

There is one more nuance in the question of how to fix the ceiling plinth for plastic panels. It is not so important whether you stick it or screw it onto self-tapping screws, a decent look largely depends on how accurately you fit it in the corners.

Most guidelines recommend simply taking a miter box and cutting the adjacent corners at 45 degrees. But in our houses, not all corners have clear 90º, and if the angle is turned or, on the contrary, acute, then a standard miter box is generally useless.

I do it in a completely different way. First, the plinth is applied to one side of the corner and lines are drawn along it on the ceiling and on the wall.

And then the same procedure must be done on the adjacent part of the corner. As a result, you get 2 intersection points, which will serve as guidelines for cutting the ceiling plinth.

Tip: the installation of electrical equipment is indirectly related to the ceiling sheathing. But my advice to you, if you do the wiring under the casing, then assemble the circuit before installing the plastic and check if it works. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything later.

Output

Facing the ceiling with plastic with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first. In the photo and video in this article, you will find additional tips and tricks. And if you have any questions, leave them in the comments, I will try to help.

Decorating the bathroom with plastic panels is not the best solution to the problem, but due to its cheapness and simplicity, it is often used.

Today, there are panels for bathrooms, imitating, with various patterns, etc. In terms of cost, these materials almost do not differ from tiles, and savings are achieved due to the cheapness of installation.

Plastic panels can be mounted in various ways, the specific choice depends on the wishes and capabilities of the customer. In the article, we will give step-by-step instructions for all options for wall and ceiling decoration.

Before starting work, you need to purchase materials, but here inexperienced builders make mistakes.

We do not touch on design issues, this is the topic of the following articles. Let's talk only about construction aspects.

1. Check mechanical strength. The stronger the panels, the more durable and better the sheathing. Check them before buying, squeeze your fingers at the end. You will be surprised how different materials are, regardless of price. There are cheap and durable PVC panels and vice versa, expensive, but reminiscent of cotton wool in strength. The quality of the panels depends on the raw materials used, equipment and production technology. Never buy soft panels, in case of damage it is almost impossible to replace them.
2. Check the patterns match. Domestic manufacturers often sin. The intricate multicolored patterns on the panels demand the utmost responsibility from the manufacturers. Patterning is not an easy process, quality control must be carried out at all stages of production. Installation of low-quality panels leads to the fact that individual elements on the lamellas do not match. If this happens with ceramic tiles, then due to minor adjustments of the gaps, the situation can be corrected, this cannot be done with panels. We understand that it is difficult to check in a store. Inform the seller that such a check will be done by you at home, be sure to take a check. At home, lay the panels on a flat surface and carefully inspect all the joints, pay attention to how the lines of the pattern or pattern move from one panel to another.
3. Pay attention to the joints, there should be no gaps. Unfortunately, some manufacturers manage not only to leave gaps, but also to make them uneven in width. The reason is low-quality raw materials, old machines and the human factor. The marriage becomes even more noticeable if modern spotlights are installed in the bathroom, gaps cast a shadow, the appearance of walls and ceilings will upset even very undemanding customers.
4. The thickness of the panels should be exactly the same throughout the entire area. Connect the two lamellas and see if the joints lie in the same plane. If there is a slight difference in height, then this is a marriage. When lighting a room in these places, shadows of various widths are formed, the appearance of the wall will be irretrievably damaged.
5. Check the material for ductility. If the panels are made of recycled PVC, it will crack during fixation. This is a significant marriage, the strength of the fastening is significantly reduced. Secondary PVC is obtained after processing products from primary. The cost of raw materials is much cheaper, and this tempts unscrupulous producers.

   Quality panels do not crack when bent

Use the information when purchasing materials, do not create additional problems for yourself. Remember that high cost does not always guarantee the same quality.

Completion and additional elements

We will talk below how to calculate the number of panels and additional elements, and now we will tell you what is included in the package of wall decoration with PVC panels. Select the appearance and specific dimensions taking into account the parameters of the panels.

Name	Brief description and purpose
	It looks like a plate bent at an angle of 90 °. It is used for finishing the interior and exterior corners of the premises.
	A complex profile, part is installed under the panels, the outer side hides the unevenness of the cuts or surfaces.
	Consists of a corner, the inside is wider than the outside. Conceals irregularities in the outer corner.
	It differs from the outside in the width of the sides. The wide one is installed under the lamellas, the outer narrow one hides the unevenness of the inner corner.
	Allows you to connect lamellas without a lock, it is used if the length of the lamellas is insufficient for surface finishing
	Installed first and last, sometimes it can be used instead of a universal or special corner.
	It is installed in the places of abutments, can be used as a platband.
	The supporting element of the frame can be plastic or from a metal profile.
	It is made of metal, presses the panel against the mounting plate. Allows to dismantle panels without loss of factory qualities.

pvc panels for bathroom

The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer, staples with a stapler, clamps or liquid nails. The choice of the method depends on the materials for the manufacture of the supporting frame and the quality of the walls and ceilings.

How to handle the material

One of the advantages of PVC panels is manufacturability. You can cut material in one of three simple ways in two directions.

Method 1. Mounting knife. Use only new inserts, the tip should be as sharp as possible.

Cut direction	Method of execution
Along the panels	Put the panel on a flat place, mark the cut point. When cutting, use a long, flat bar. Press it firmly against the surface of the panel and use the end of a knife to cut the lamella from one side along the entire length. Then flip the panel over and bend the cut. Cut the remaining plane in a bent position.
Across panels	A more complex case requires certain skills. Mark the location of the cut. Using the edge of a knife, carefully cut the jumpers between the planes one at a time. After passing the entire width under the ruler, make a continuous cut of one plane. Bend the cut off and cut off the second plane on the opposite side.

Method 2. Grinder. You need to work with a disc for cutting metals. The thickness of the disc is minimal. Cutting is very easy and fast, the only requirement is a minimum experience with a grinder. Be sure to follow all safety rules, injuries from the grinder are very dangerous. Burrs on the opposite side of the cut are easily broken off after cooling.

Method 3. A hacksaw for metal. An undesirable option, it is difficult and long to work. But as a last resort, you can use it.

With a jigsaw, you can make any cut on the plastic panel

Cut quality is dependent on practical skills. But do not be upset if the cut edge is not very even, additional elements allow you to hide problems up to one centimeter wide. The cut can rarely be worse, the panel will be fit for installation.

How to cut multiple PVC panels at once

How to calculate the number of panels and additional elements

The bathroom has a small area and many different transitions and corners. It is for this reason that professional builders are not very willing to decorate these premises, it takes a lot of time to measure, install the battens and fit the panels, and there are few square meters at the exit. Builders are paid for meters, not for time, so they choose large premises.

The more corners and transitions, the more unproductive waste will be. Their number increases if panels with decorative patterns or asymmetrical patterns are selected. This material does not allow the use of the lines in other places. For ordinary panels, the number should be increased by 10% of the area of \u200b\u200bthe surfaces to be trimmed. In bathrooms, the headroom should increase up to 15%. In addition, if there are complex patterns, then the panels will have to be counted individually, taking into account the location of the pattern.

Measure the total length of the inside and outside corners, the length of the skirting boards on the floor and ceiling. Decide how many starting profile you need, whether you need a connecting profile, what elements you will trim the corners with (simple or complex). If you have the skills to work with PVC panels, you can use simple corners, if not, buy complex ones. They allow you to hide errors during cutting or dimensioning. Take your time, think carefully about everything, always buy with a margin. It is very annoying to go to the store again a meter or two from the corner, and time is wasted in vain. Additional elements cost a penny, do not skimp on them.

When counting the number of rails or mounting strips, keep in mind that the distance between them should not exceed 50 cm. In addition, they must be mounted at the joints of the floor and flow as close as possible to all corners, window and door openings. Reiki in these places are installed regardless of the location of the last row. Measurements and calculations can take several hours, use them wisely. It will never be possible to accurately count the number of clamps or self-tapping screws. Buy them in packs, the seller will tell you the approximate number of pieces, taking into account the width of the PVC panels.

General requirements for surfaces

One of the advantages of the technology of wall finishing with plastic clapboard is low requirements for surfaces. There is no need to specially plaster and level the walls with putty, only large cracks are repaired. The height of the irregularities can be up to one 1–1.5 centimeters, anything larger must be cut down.

The climatic parameters between the wall and the cladding are the most favorable for the reproduction of fungi and other microorganisms, it is impossible to destroy them later. We'll have to remove the casing, do disinfection and vapor protection. Only after such events can you begin to mount plastic panels. No matter how carefully you remove the cladding, you cannot do without damaging the materials. If you can buy the missing ones with the same characteristics - great. If not, you will have to buy new materials for the entire scope of work.

Installation of panels on walls using wooden lathing

We will give a step-by-step instruction on the vertical arrangement of the panels. In the future, we will talk about the technological differences between vertical and horizontal placement.

Step 1. Calculate the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe walls minus the window and door openings.

Stock up with the above notes. We will fix the lamellas with a stapler and staples, this is the fastest and most reliable option. With self-tapping screws for a long time, with clamps on self-tapping screws even longer, and liquid glue will not allow replacing a damaged panel if necessary. The lathing is fixed to the wall with dowels. If you have special plastic mounting strips, then the lamellas are attached to them only with clamps, they are inserted into special grooves. Advantages of clamps - the fixing area is increased, the lower mounting plate of the panel is not damaged. Due to this, the strength of the fastening increases, the clamps are recommended to be used when covering the ceiling with spot lighting. They allow to withstand the increased weight of the structure.

Step 2. Remove large irregularities from the wall and repair any cracks.

Use a large flat bar to check the surface, apply it in different places and watch the gap. At the same time, check the horizontal position, if the deviation is more than a centimeter, you will have to plaster. If the spread is less, then the position of the rails is regulated by various shims.

Step 3. Saturate the surface with antiseptic, make steam and waterproofing. You can use aluminum foil or plastic wrap. It is allowed to impregnate the walls with liquid insulators, just pay attention that they are for indoor work. Wooden slats must also be treated with solutions.

Step 4. To speed up the work, mark the position of the rails, use a blue rope to beat off the horizontal lines at the desired distance.

Step 5. Fix the first rail at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the ceiling. Check its position carefully with a level. Insert wedges if necessary. The rail is fastened with dowels. First, make a hole on one side and fix the dowel, and then on the other. Next, dowels are installed along the entire length, the distance between them is about 20-30 cm. In the same way, fix the rail near the floor.

Step 6. Pull ropes between them, two at the ends and one in the middle. The ropes function as beacons, along which you install all the other slats. Make sure to frame around window and door openings. Check the position of all the battens again, make sure that the battens are installed correctly near the openings. If the slats are not in the same plane, this will negatively affect the panels, the backlight will reveal their incorrect position. To fix the marriage, you will have to dismantle the slats and repeat the installation from the beginning.

Step 7. Fix the corner in the corner, start laying around from the far corner of the room. Fix the corner with a stapler, staple length 6 mm. While fixing, carefully control the verticality of it along two sides. Not only the quality of work, but also the speed of installation depends on the correct position of the corner. If the angle is not equal to 90 °, then you will have to adjust the size of each panel, it is very long.

Step 8. Measure the width and height of the wall at several locations. The parameters must be the same. If the spread is less than a centimeter, then all workpieces can be cut to the same size. Count the number of panels, on which measure the desired length and cut off the excess. This will be a template, use it to mark the rest of the lamellas.

Step 9... Insert one edge of the lamella into the corner, from the back, fasten it to the crate. Remember to check the position. The first panel is installed - continue installation in the same way to the opposite corner of the room.

Step 10. The last panel needs to be cut to the width depending on the remaining space. Make it about 1 cm narrower, this will make installation easier. First, install the last lamella in the corner, and then move it to the penultimate one until the lock clicks into place.

Finish all wall surfaces using the same algorithm. A little more work around the openings, in these places you need to measure and cut each element separately.

Installation of a metal frame

The advantage of a metal frame made of profiles is that it allows you to accurately align the position of the slats, regardless of the unevenness of the wall. How is it attached?

Step 1. On the wall, draw the lines for placing the U-shaped hangers. The work algorithm is the same as for wooden slats.

Step 3. Cut the U-shaped bearing profiles to length, count their number.

Step 4. Begin the installation of the bearing profiles. The vertical position is adjusted using the holes in the hangers or by slightly extending the profiles. If they do not allow you to accurately install the crate, then unbend the suspensions. Such actions do not impair the bearing performance of the elements. Lamella loads act perpendicular to the bend. The elements are fixed to each other with self-tapping screws.

Important. If significant mistakes were made during the installation of the lathing, then they can be corrected only after dismantling the PVC panels. It is not only expensive but also time consuming. Remember to constantly check the position of the supporting elements. Remember that the most accurate instrument for measuring verticality is an ordinary plumb line. You can buy it or make it yourself. The level can distort readings up to 2 mm per meter. And if he fell from a great height, then it is impossible to install a crate on it.

What is the difference between vertical and horizontal laying

The only difference is that for horizontal laying of panels, the frame must be vertical and vice versa. For bathrooms, horizontal installation of panels is strongly discouraged. Water easily enters the locks, then enters the space between the panels and the wall. If there is a lot of it and it is constantly there, then no amount of steam and moisture protection will help. The appearance of mold and mildew cannot be avoided. To destroy them, you will have to completely disassemble the wall covering, carry out a set of special preventive and construction measures and re-sheathe the walls. Such work costs about twice as much as the correct wall cladding.

Practical advice. Do not invent a bicycle, do not create problems for yourself for your own money. In bathrooms, mount PVC panels only vertically.

Installation of panels on a rough ceiling

For example, let's take a panel that mimics a rack ceiling. The rough ceiling does not require any preparatory work.

Step 1. Saturate the rough ceiling with antiseptics, let them soak and dry. It is advisable to make the vapor barrier with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. Fix the material with a stapler, carefully seal the joints with tape.

Glue the joints with tape

Step 2. Measure the distance between the opposite walls of the room and cut the skirting board, in the corners the connection at 45 °.

Practical advice. Do not fix the skirting board to the wall with self-tapping screws. It will sag a little under the weight of the panels; gaps will form between it and the wall decoration. In addition, this method of fixation requires perfectly flat surfaces. Self-tapping screws press the plinth to the hollows, it bends, the appearance deteriorates significantly.

Fix the elements to the wall with liquid glue, remove excess material immediately. Fix only three skirting boards, the fourth is placed after the panels have been laid. For a guarantee, you can additionally fix the back of the element to the ceiling with a stapler. Wait 2-3 hours for the glue to dry completely.

Step 3. Ceiling panels should be several millimeters thinner than wall panels. Keep in mind that the panel can go two centimeters into each skirting board. Measure the length of the ceiling from edge to edge of the skirting board and add 1.5 cm to this value, leaving the remaining 0.5 cm to facilitate installation. It is better to measure and cut each panel separately, this minimizes the likelihood of error.

Step 4. Recheck the dimensions and geometry of the ceiling. If there are minor deviations, then they will have to be gradually eliminated by changing the width of the gaps between the lamellas. The amount of change should not exceed two millimeters, otherwise the adjustment will become noticeable. If the architectural features of the ceiling allow, then align the panels in places invisible to the eye. Open areas will already have smooth joints.

Step 5. Insert the end of the panel into one skirting board, bend it slightly and insert the other end into the opposite one. Align the panel and tuck the long edge into the third skirting board.

Practical advice. What if the ceiling plane resembles a rhombus? Such cases occur among hack builders, but this can be corrected. Install ceiling panels diagonally. There is nothing complicated, just cut the end of each panel at an angle. How this is done is described below. The negative consequences of a curved ceiling - the amount of panel waste increases significantly.

Step 6. Press the panels firmly together, secure them with a stapler. The tighter the locks come together, the stronger the connection. If the ceiling is not very even, then during the fastening of the panel, a gap may appear at the end between it and the plinth. To prevent this from happening, push the plastic trims into these places and only then fix it. Under the force, the plastic will be compressed to the required thickness, the gap will close. It is difficult to bend short slats. In such cases, make them one centimeter shorter, the width of the skirting boards allows this. The best option is to immediately install the panels on the wider side of the ceiling. During installation, do not use excessive force, do not damage the skirting board, do not scratch the walls, do not break the panel.

Step 7. After all the entire panels are installed, measure the width of the remaining uncovered ceiling. Cut the material to these dimensions using one of the possible methods.

Step 8. Using the method described above, insert the panel into two skirting boards, connect one edge to the lock. The rest will have to be fixed separately. There are two options. First, before installation, lubricate the reverse side with liquid nails and glue. The second is to drill a hole in one plane along the diameter of the self-tapping screw and screw the second plane to the ceiling with it.

Step 9. Cut the base from the fourth skirting board. Spread the remaining surface with liquid glue and attach to the wall in the proper place.

This completes the installation of the ceiling panels. Of course, during work, you need to leave space for electrical wiring, ordinary or spotlights. If, after installation, gaps are noticeable in some places, they can be sealed with a sealant of the corresponding color.

Installation of panels to the ceiling on a metal frame

Step 1. Beat off the line for the installation of the bearing profiles around the perimeter of the room, make sure that the ceiling is horizontal. Fix the rest of the profiles at a distance of about 50-60 cm. If the ceiling is very uneven, then use suspensions. They can be fixed and adjusted in the same way as on a wall. The difference is that the ceiling frame is more difficult to check with the level: it is more difficult to work, arms are raised up and get tired quickly.

Frame for PVC panels

Step 2... Glue three baseboards with liquid nails, file them at 45 ° in the corners. If the plane of the ceiling has no right angles, then each gash will have to be adjusted. Glue the skirting board both to the wall and to the metal profile. Follow the technology when gluing. After the skirting board is attached, remove it and wait 2-3 minutes, then press the element again. Check its position by rule or level. The rule is applied to the bottom edge of the skirting board. If there are gaps, then with your hand carefully move the plinth down until it stops with an even edge of the rule. Give time to solidify. The slots in the corners are sealed with a liquid sealant, but for professionals, the fit should immediately be tight. It is very hot and humid under the bathroom ceiling. You can be sure that the sealant will peel off in 4–5 years, it will have to be removed and the cracks repaired.

Practical advice. Sometimes, when the glue hardens, the skirting boards lead a little in the corners, they turn out to be at different levels. To prevent this from happening, shove in the corners of the trim, they will constantly hold the two elements at the same level.

Step 3. Insert one end of the lamella into the skirting board, bend it slightly and slide the other end into the opposite skirting board. Straighten the panel and slide it into the third skirting board. We have already mentioned that the dimensions of the ceiling should be checked exactly before installation. If one side is longer than the second, then the difference must be gradually leveled by adjusting the gap between the lamellas. The method, of course, is not ideal, but there is no better one. Always install panels along the long side of the ceiling. Due to this, it will be possible to reduce the number of cuts and facilitate bending of the lamellas during installation.

Panel fixing

Check the position of the lamellas at all times. In order for a screwdriver that has jumped off not to damage the end of the panel, place a clean wide metal spatula between them while screwing in, it serves as reliable protection. It is not necessary to twist the press washers into the tail of the panel, it is difficult and increases the risk of damage, the main thing is that it presses it against the profile with a hat.

Step 5. The last panel must be cut to fit the remaining gap. For ease of installation, make a gap of about 1–1.5 cm, it will then hide in the baseboards.

Step 6. Cut off the back plate of the skirting board, cover the remaining surfaces with glue and glue in the wall. Do not forget that gluing must be done in two stages. If the skirting board creeps down under its own weight, then hold it for a few minutes or come up with any temporary stop.

This completes the work, you can start installing lighting fixtures. Before you start finishing, you should know the type of devices and the place of their installation, cut holes of the corresponding diameters in the panels in advance.

1. Draw on the panel a hole of the required diameter and in the selected location.
2. Insert the drill into the drill, adjust it to high speed.
3. If there is an assistant, great, he will put the panel on the edge and hold it firmly. If you have to work yourself, then the panel is held with one hand, and the other works with a drill. This is inconvenient and difficult, the hole will be uneven.
4. Drill a hole on the line of the circle, press the drill against the line and guide it around the circle. Friction will melt the plastic, and the drill will "cut" a hole in it.

That's it, remove the burrs and the hole is done.

What are the features of installing panels on the ceiling for spot lighting? No matter how light the luminaires are, their large number creates an additional load on the panels; over time, the ceiling may sag a little. In order to prevent such consequences, intermediate jumpers need to be installed more often, professionals recommend making the distance between them no more than 30 cm.In addition, choose strong lamellas for the ceiling, pay special attention to the characteristics of the locks, it is they that hold the weight.

Can dismantled panels be reused? Much depends on how you shoot them. Cheap materials during the separation of the fixation points can give long longitudinal cracks. To prevent this phenomenon, cut the junction of the lamellas with the frame with the sharp end of the mounting knife along the entire perimeter of the hardware. Before re-laying, you will have to move the supporting frame a few centimeters in any direction in such a way that the fixation is done on undamaged areas.

Video - Vertical laying of panels on walls

The modern building materials market offers a huge variety of building materials, including finishing materials. However, with all their diversity, when, when renovating an apartment, the owners begin to discuss what kind of material they want to revet the walls in the bathroom, toilet or even the kitchen, the choice often falls on plastic panels. Decorating walls with plastic panels is an easy and affordable way to update your interior.

Plastic decorative panels

Plastic panels are a material made from PolyVinyl Chloride, which is used for surface cladding works. Wall decoration with PVC panels is often chosen because they have a low weight, low cost, and in the material from which they are made, there are no harmful substances asbestos and cadmium that are dangerous to humans.

Polyvinyl chloride is a universal polymer that is used for the production of bottles, syringes, linoleum, hoses, water pipes. Products made from this material have a smooth, easy to clean surface, which allows them to be used, for example, in hospitals or kitchens. PVC panels are lightweight and have a cell-like structure.

In order for a PVC plastic panel to catch fire, it needs to be heated to almost 400 degrees, and during combustion it does not emit toxic substances.

PVC panels are waterproof cladding and can be used in domestic areas such as kitchens, bathrooms, toilets.

Decorative PVC panels are soundproof and heat-resistant. To protect against exposure to sunlight and moisture, the panels are impregnated with a varnish coating that makes them smooth and repels dust. On the front side, PVC plastic panels are covered with different patterns that imitate natural materials (wood, stone, etc.).

Plastic panels for wood are often installed in the kitchen, and panels for stone - in the hallway. Such panels can be easily cut both lengthwise and across, so no problems arise during their installation. It is also easy to connect them, and you can make them in such a way that they will be a continuous canvas, or you can leave gaps by inserting some interesting decor between them.

Types of PVC panels

PVC can be used for finishing:

• walls;
• ceilings;
• exterior decoration of the house.

Decorative panels that are produced for wall cladding (wall plastic panels) have a thickness of up to 10 mm, in contrast to ceiling panels, the thickness of which is not more than 5 mm.

In addition, PVC panels designed for ceiling have thinner walls and partitions.

Clapboard is often used for exterior decoration of the house. Moreover, it can be used for interior decoration. It is also easy to install and easy to clean. Lining, as a facing material for external walls, fully justifies itself - it is frost-resistant, does not lose its beautiful appearance at low or high temperatures.

It is better not to use ordinary plastic panels when decorating external walls, since they do not very well tolerate ultraviolet rays of the sun.

In appearance, PVC wall panels are divided into:

• matte;
• mirrored;
• glossy.

All these panels differ both in color and texture, have a different pattern, and a different coating.

By shape, decorative plastic PVC panels are divided into:

• rack;
• tiled;
• leafy.

Rack plastic panels are similar to lining. They can be fixed to the wall both horizontally and vertically. These panels are up to 3 meters long, 13 - 30 cm wide, and their thickness varies from 8 to 12 mm. They are connected to each other with a special locking “thorn-groove”.

Tiled plastic panels for walls are rectangular or square tiles, ranging in size from 30 to 98 cm. They are fixed to the walls like a rack, but visually they look completely different.

Sheet panels for walls are a chipboard sheet with a pattern applied to the front side. Such panels are glued to the wall, or nailed.

The size along the long side of such panels varies from 1.22 m to 2.44 m, and the thickness - from 3 to 6 mm. Such panels do not belong to plastic, but their decorative layer also has a polymer coating.

By the way in which the pattern is applied, PVC plastic panels are divided into:

• laminated;
• with a picture applied with a film;
• with a pattern applied by direct printing.

Lamination is the application of a film with a pattern to the surface of a plastic panel. It is the laminated panels that imitate natural stone or wood.

The method, in which the pattern is applied using thermal film, consists in the fact that the white panel is covered with any color, after which the thermal film is glued on top.

The direct printing method (also called offset) is that the image is first transferred to the front side of the PVC panel, after which it is varnished on top.

Plastic panels are also divided into types according to the presence of the panel seam:

• seamless;
• embossed;
• with a chamfer.

When installed, seamless panels do not show the joints, and they give the impression of an ordinary smooth wall. In relief panels, the seam is clearly visible and is part of the decor. Beveled wall panels are the same seamless panels that have a small depression for decoration, which makes them embossed.

In addition, mirror plastic panels and plastic panels made to look like brick belong to individual varieties.

Mirror plastic panels have appeared relatively recently, but have already gained immense popularity. These panels are covered with a special reflective film, so they like to be used not only in apartments, but also in restaurants, hotels, bars, and other public spaces.

The advantages of mirror plastic panels are undeniable:

• they visually increase the space due to reflected light;
• they can be installed on surfaces of various shapes, including rounded ones;
• they look great with any design ideas;
• such panels are attached to various bases;
• they can be washed in the same way as ordinary glasses are washed.

The disadvantage of mirror panels is the fact that they do not like moisture. Therefore, it is not recommended to install them in rooms such as baths and kitchens. Also, mirrored plastic panels do not like high temperatures.

Wall decoration with plastic stone panels looks very elegant. A brick or stone wall always looks very beautiful, but due to the high cost of the material and the complexity of the masonry, not everyone can afford such a facing. But plastic panels for a stone or PVC panels that imitate brickwork are not only easy to install, but also easy to care for.

The advantages of such panels include:

• a variety of types of imitations for any stone and any masonry;
• low weight and easy installation;
• easy care;
• service life;
• price.

Such panels look great both in the kitchen and in the hallway, as well as in public places.

How to choose plastic panels for wall decoration

Even if you know exactly what color plastic panels you want to see, for example, in your kitchen, and have chosen a drawing, nevertheless, pay attention to some more points so as not to regret your choice in the future.

You need to track the following when buying:

• inspect the cut carefully and note the thickness of the lintel. The strength of the lining depends on this - the thicker the lintels and the polymer itself, the stronger the finish will be;
• plastic should be the same thickness everywhere;
• cells and edges should be even and look neat;
• the pattern on the surface must be clear and uniform;
• keep in mind that panels from different boxes may have different shades;
• pay close attention to the quality of the polymer. Take one panel and fold it over.

After the plate has unbent, no joints or damage should remain on it.

Installation of plastic panels on the wall

It is quite easy to install decorative plastic panels on the wall with your own hands, and one of the most pleasant moments is that such an installation does not require wall preparation.

You will also need the most common tools.

Preparatory work

Before you go to the hardware store for plastic panels, you should calculate exactly how much finishing material you will need.

For the calculation, you need to decide how exactly you will install the plastic panels - vertically or horizontally. If you are going to mount the panels vertically, then you just need to measure the perimeter of the room, adding the lengths of all four walls, and subtracting the width of the doorways from it. The size of the perimeter must be divided by the width of one panel, and add three or four more pieces to the resulting amount for trimming and "just in case."

If your room has two walls of 3 m, and two of 5 m, then the perimeter will be (3 + 3 + 5 + 5 \u003d 16 m). If the width of the plastic panel is 0.5 m, then you need 16 / 0.5 \u003d 32 panels. So take 35.

If you plan to install the panels horizontally, then you need to determine not the perimeter, but the area (by multiplying the length of each wall by its width, and then adding the obtained values), and then also subtract the door (and window) openings. After that, you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bone panel, and divide the first value (room area) by the second (panel area).

With the same room dimensions and a standard ceiling height of 2.5 m, the areas of the two walls will be 7.5 m (3 x 2.5) and 12.5 (5 x 2.5) m, respectively, that is, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room will be is equal to (12.5 + 12.5 + 7.5 + 7.5 \u003d 40 sq. m). The area of \u200b\u200bone panel 2.5 m high and 0.5 m wide will be (2.5 x 0.5 \u003d 1.25 m). Accordingly, you need 40 / 1.25 \u003d 32 panels.

By the way, there will be much more trimmings with this installation method. So the stock must also be increased. Take 37 pieces.

You also need to calculate the number of battens that will be needed for the lathing. To do this, divide the height of the walls (2.5) by the distance that you will need to leave between the elements of the crate (usually 0.5 m is left). That is, in our case, it will turn out to be 2.5 / 0.5 \u003d 5.

Now you need to find out the length of all the rails in linear meters. To do this, multiply the resulting value by the perimeter of the room (in our case, it is 16 m). Accordingly, the length of the slats in running meters is 5 x 16 \u003d 80 m.

Wall markings

Decorating the walls with do-it-yourself panels involves marking, since the crate must be fixed strictly according to the level, otherwise you cannot avoid distortions. It is in order that you do not have to measure every purchased rail and you need to make a markup.

The bottom row of plastic panels is exactly 2 cm above the floor surface.

Accordingly, having measured this distance, you need to put a point, and then draw a horizontal line using a level along the entire perimeter of the room. Exactly the same straight line must be drawn along the edge of the future finish. From the line drawn below, you need to measure upwards 50 cm, and mark this place. So you need to put marks to the very top. Through these marks, you will need to draw horizontal parallel lines along the entire perimeter of the walls. The markup is ready.

Installation of lathing

Before installing the battens, prepare the walls. Careful leveling of the wall surface is not required, however, you need to remove old finishing materials and everything that can fall off and come off. If there are large indentations in the surface of the wall, it is advisable to seal them up. If something sticks out, these parts of the wall need to be knocked off or cut off.

After that, you should treat the wall with an anti-fungal coating. And then you can already proceed directly to the installation of the crate.

The elements of the lathing should be located strictly perpendicular to the plastic panels. If you are going to mount panels horizontally, then the battens of the crate must be fastened vertically, and, accordingly, vice versa. The slats are installed at a distance of no more than 50 cm from each other, and better still less. The smaller the distance, the less the wall made of plastic panels will "walk". The lathing is fixed on ordinary dowels.

If you want your cladding to look smooth and beautiful, the crate for plastic panels should be placed in the same plane. If irregularities appear somewhere, you need to put pieces of plywood. Then the cladding will look dignified.

Installing profiles

The installation of plastic panels itself begins with the fact that the selected profiles must be installed in one of the corners. They are attached to the lathing elements.

As a result of such fastenings, a kind of frame is obtained. Plastic panels are inserted into this frame.

DIY wall decoration with plastic panels

Now you need to install the plastic panel, cutting it to the height of the wall if you install the panels vertically, and, accordingly, along the length of the wall if you chose the horizontal installation method. You can cut the panel with a conventional saw with a metal blade.

The cut-off side of the plastic panel is inserted into the frame at the corner, pushed all the way (for this you just need to knock on it with your hand), and check with a level how strictly vertical this panel stands. Then this panel is attached to each element of the installed battens.

Note that you need to start from the farthest corner of the room, since it is visible from the entrance in the first place, and it is impossible for any extra joints or edges to be visible there.

Having fixed the first panel, a second is installed next to it, then a third, and so on. There should not be any difficulties, it will be a little more difficult only with the very last panel, because it will have to be cut in width and immediately fixed in the profile. It is not always possible to do it smoothly, and the plastic may wrinkle slightly. But with the appropriate skill and accuracy, this little difficulty can be dealt with.

Installation of moldings

After you have installed all the plastic panels and your wall has acquired a beautiful and neat look, you need to close the corners and joints. This can be done with the help of special plastic moldings, which will complement your work.

After finishing work, the same plastic molding should be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling, and a plastic baseboard should be installed on the floor.

When installing plastic panels, holes should be made in the lining for sockets and switches. This can be easily done with an ordinary sharp knife. Your plastic panel wall is now complete.

By the way, if you wish, you can install plastic panels and diagonally. It turns out quite interesting, but the work will become more complicated, and there will be much more waste.

Nevertheless, this installation method is quite popular.

Among the huge variety of methods for external and internal decoration of buildings and structures, wall decoration with PVC panels (made of polyvinyl chloride) takes its rightful place.

Not so long ago, the choice of such a finishing material was not large enough. On the market, panels were offered with a depleted monochrome (one-color) color with a predominance of white.

Currently, the palette of colors has been greatly enriched through the use of new technologies for dyeing and applying various patterns in the form of abstract patterns or imitations for other more expensive finishing materials of artificial or natural origin.

There are many varieties of PVC panels. They may differ:

• by appointment - for wall cladding (thicker) or ceilings (thinner);
• in length and in width;
• by the type of connecting lock and the method of fastening;
• by the method of drawing;
• by the surface relief.

The construction of PVC panels is a cellular-channel structure formed by the upper and lower horizontal planes, interconnected by longitudinal bridges. This design has good sound insulation and heat shielding properties.

They are used mainly for cladding walls, partitions or ceilings of glazed loggias, balconies, utility rooms. You can often find ceilings lined with them in kitchens, bathrooms and toilet rooms. Sometimes they are used to decorate rooms with a humid microclimate as a budget (cheap) replacement for ceramic tiles.

They are also used for cladding and protection of building facades or their parts (for example, plinths). Such external panels can have a textured relief finish and imitate stone, brick or even wood. For cladding the outer surfaces of the walls, panels are also specially produced with an outer surface resembling a board-lining with a specific seam configuration characteristic of this type of finish.

This type of cladding is not recommended for decorating living spaces or places where people spend most of the day. The inability of such a coating to allow air and steam to pass through leads to the creation of an unfavorable microclimate in such rooms and the impossibility of creating coziness and comfort required for human life.

Neighboring panels are connected to each other using a lock similar to a parquet spike, using the elastic properties of polymer plastic and creating an almost sealed joint. The lock can be of two types - with a widened lower part, designed for direct attachment of the panel to the frame using screws or nails, as well as with a thin groove on one of the side faces for attachment with special metal clamps, which, in turn, are nailed or screwed to frame.

Sizes can vary greatly. So, for example, less durable panels with a thickness of 5 mm are used for facing ceilings, and with a thickness of 8 ... 10 mm - for facing walls. In width they can be from 200 to 370 mm, and in length they vary from 2.6 to 3 meters.

The pattern on the panel is applied both by hot knurling and by lamination, that is, finishing the outer face layer with a polymer film with graphic patterns.

With a sufficiently flat surface intended for cladding, the panels can be mounted using adhesive mastics intended for gluing PVC products. However, for greater reliability, it is better to use wooden or metal frames. For the manufacture of wooden frames, square bars with dimensions of 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 mm are suitable. For metal, they use bent sheet profiles developed for the installation of plasterboard sheets.

Important: before use, the wooden frame elements must be treated with antiseptics.

Preparing for installation

Calculation of the material required for finishing with plastic panels

Based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe surface to be faced, calculate the required number of panels that are required in order to sheathe the walls or ceiling. That is, the finishing area is divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone element. This value is in direct proportion to the size of the panels used. When purchasing, you should carefully monitor their similarity, since colors and patterns may differ in shades from batch to batch. You can ask the seller to provide an opportunity to dock several panels from different packages and see if they differ in thickness and color or pattern.

The calculation of the required number of frame elements is performed according to a previously drawn panel layout scheme. In this case, it is taken into account that the distance between these elements is taken to be close to or equal to 500 mm. Fastening and alignment in the plane of the frame elements are performed with screws of the appropriate length, if the frame and the working surface are wooden. For concrete or brick walls, dowel screws are used, installed in pre-drilled holes, and perforated strips with bendable ends are used to align and connect metal elements to the walls or ceiling.

To increase the thermal and sound insulation properties, mineral wool mats or foam plates can be laid between the frame elements.

Which tool should you use

The set of tools that requires the installation of plastic panels on ceilings and walls is quite minimal:

Preparation of the surface to be coated

The surface of the walls does not require any special preparation, except that if it is not covered with crumbling plaster, there are traces of soaking and there are areas affected by fungus and mold. Such defects should be eliminated, and the wall should be treated with antiseptics followed by a primer.

Wall decoration with plastic panels

Let us now consider how to properly attach the plastic panels to the wall using a frame. PVC panels and elements to which they are to be attached are installed in a perpendicular direction. That is, if the installation of plastic panels on the wall requires a vertical arrangement, the frame elements are fixed horizontally on the walls, and vice versa.

The frame slats are fixed on the walls with a step of 500 mm. This size was not chosen by chance. If the step is larger, the stiffness of the cladding will be reduced, if more often, there will be an excessive waste of material. Panels are attached to the frame with nails or self-tapping screws. If the design of the panel does not provide for self-attachment, clamps are used. Each subsequent one snaps into the lock of the previous one, thus forming an almost invisible perfect seam that does not require additional finishing.

If the frame device for some reason cannot be done, there is nothing left to do but to glue the plastic panels on the wall. This is possible on one condition - the working surface should be as flat as possible. How to fix plastic with glue?

First you need to decide what to glue. Glue or glue mastic should be chosen so that they have good adhesion (ability to stick) to two dissimilar materials at once - polyvinyl chloride and brick, plaster, wood or other materials of which the finished surface consists.

Before proceeding with gluing, the surfaces to be glued must be well cleaned, dust-free and degreased with an organic solvent. On the PVC sheet, the glue is applied in a thin layer, after which, by pressing and pressing, the glue is seated on the plate and wall.

You can assemble a number of panels inserted into each other (up to 3 ... 5 pieces) into a group and it can already be glued to the ceiling or wall. After installation, in order to prevent the panel from sliding along the wall under the influence of gravity, it must be fixed using specially designed and assembled fixtures.

To mask the seams formed along the short side of the panels during their build-up, or in the straight and reverse corners of the mates, or at the points of abutment to surfaces that do not need cladding - special plastic profiles of a special configuration are produced for different sheet thicknesses, or, as they are also called - " moldings ".