The simplest do-it-yourself stove. Masonry ovens - expert advice, ordering instructions

Kinds

There are many varieties of heating and cooking stoves, every stove-maker probably has in stock several proven drawings and diagrams, according to which he does the laying with his own hands. But, one way or another, they are all put together on the basis of long-known ones, which are discussed below.

Swedish oven

"Swede" was originally intended to perform several functions: heating, cooking a variety of food, and drying and keeping clothes warm. Its design is thought out for trifles, the stove is equipped with a hob, an oven, and perfectly heated niches-stoves. Moreover, its smoke channels are made in such a way that the furnace body heats up evenly from bottom to top, thanks to which a stable temperature is kept in the room.

A distinctive feature of the Swedish stove shown in the photo is the oven. And its function is not limited to baking and baking. The oven is located next to the firebox and is separated from it by a thin layer of masonry. The arch of the firebox is formed by a slab located in a niche. Immediately after the start of the firebox, the hob and the wall between the firebox and the oven warm up well.

In winter time when the furnace is fully loaded, the initial the room is heated by convection flows from the stove and oven, after the end of the firebox - due to the heated walls of the oven. The hob does not overheat at the same time, since air is constantly circulating over it.

In summer, the oven is mainly used for cooking.... In this case, intense convection does not occur, since there is no temperature difference, and for a good heating of the plate, a small amount of fuel is sufficient. The oven also warms up, creating a high temperature zone at the exit from the firebox, due to which the flue gases go into the channels completely burnt out. At the same time, the furnace body heats up slightly.

Diagram and drawings of the masonry of a Swedish-type stove with their own hands are shown in the figure.

For laying a classic "Swedish" with your own hands you need:

• corpulent red brick, grade M 150 - 580 pieces;
• clay-based dry masonry mixture - 200 kg;
• cast iron grate;
• firebox door;
• blower door;
• cast iron stove with two collapsible burners;
• welded sheet metal oven;
• chimney valve - 2 pcs;
• cleaning - 3 pieces;
• equal-flange steel corner 40 mm - 170 cm;
• steel strip 5x50 mm - 65 cm;
• flat slate 10 mm thick - 1 sheet;
• roofing iron.

The foundation for the Swede is made solid, of concrete... Under the foundation, it is necessary to make a sand and gravel cushion 15-20 cm thick. The height of the foundation itself is at least 30 cm, with a two-layer reinforcement from a bar. Before laying the foundation, stand for at least 20 days to gain strength.

Level the foundation with a screed with the floor level. After it dries, it is necessary to insulate the furnace from concrete, otherwise it will take up a significant part of the heat.

Perform it like this:

1. a sheet of asbestos 3-4 mm thick is placed on the foundation with dimensions 30 cm larger than the dimensions of the furnace from the sides and back and 60 cm from the side of the firebox;
2. a heat reflector is laid on asbestos - foil or thin galvanized;
3. followed by another similar layer of asbestos with the same dimensions;
4. a sheet of roofing iron with the same indents as asbestos;
5. on top of the iron - technical felt impregnated with clay milk to the size of the oven.

On top of the felt, after it dries, they begin laying the furnace according to the scheme-order:
First two rows - solid. They form the base of the oven. Third and fourth - install the blower door, cleaning and begin to form the lower part of the smoke circulation and the ash pan. 5th row install the grate and oven. In the 6th row continue to lay out smoke channels, install a partition between the oven and the combustion chamber. 7 row put the firebox door, fix it in 8 and 9 rows, continue to lay out the channels. 10 row forms a support for the hob. To install it correctly, you must first fold the brick on dry, attach the slab and mark the laying grooves.

For the convenience of masonry, bricks are numbered, the row is disassembled and recesses are selected with the help of a grinder for laying the slab so that a gap of 5 mm remains on all sides. After that, the row is collected on a masonry mortar, and the slab itself is placed on an clay-asbestos slurry. For its preparation, crushed asbestos is introduced into the masonry mortar, diluted to a creamy consistency. When laying the slab, be sure to check its level. If the burners are of different sizes, the larger one is placed above the firebox, the smaller one above the oven.

Hob laying rules: video

12 to 16 row lay out the walls of the niche above the stove and smoke channels. Over 16 rows lay a sheet of flat slate to fit the niche, and in 17 and 18 rows they lay it with a brick, forming the ceiling of the furnace. Further laying lead according to the scheme up to 30 rows, in which a valve is placed, after which they proceed to laying the required height.

Small cooking stove

In the country house or in the summer kitchen, the stove can be installed only for one purpose - cooking... In this case, there is no need to waste material on the smoke circulation. An excellent model of the cooking oven is presented in order.

This multifunctional wood stove has several functions: you can cook and roast on the hob, you can bake in the oven, and it also has a built-in water tank.

The sketch of the facade shows its elements:

• 1 - firebox;
• 2 - ash pan and blower;
• 3 - oven;
• 4 - water tank;
• 5 - cleaning door.

The stove is similar in design and type of heating to a Swedish one, but without smoke channels... The heated smoke goes directly into the chimney, so the stove is heated with a small amount of fuel. The exit to the chimney is located at the back, which allows you to bring the pipe through the wall with your own hands, observing fire safety standards.

On such a stove no more than 250 bricks required, which allows you to install it on the floor of the house without building a foundation. In this case, it is also necessary to do thermal insulation, but in the reverse order: a felt soaked in a liquid clay solution is laid on the floor, and a sheet of roofing iron is laid on it. Laying begins on top of the sheet.

First two rows, like the Swede, solid. 3 row install cleaning, at 4 and 5 - ash pan door, form the smoke circulation and exit to the chimney. In the 6th row they overlap the ash pan door, install an oven and a water tank. 7 row a grate is placed on the bottom of the furnace, from 8 to 10 row lay out a partition between the firebox and the oven, put the firebox door. 11 row - overlap over the firebox door, oven and tank. Also, in the 11th row, a recess is made for laying the slab.

The top of the stove is covered with a cast iron hob with two burners. They are selected so that the maximum heated one is located above the firebox. Place the slab with a 5 mm gap on a clay mortar with the addition of asbestos.

Kuznetsov ovens

Fundamentally new design furnaces are implemented in. Unlike channel ones, they are devoid of a complex system of internal passages, and the circulation of gases occurs in cavities - hoods. For this feature, Kuznetsov's stoves are called bell stoves. Among his developments are heating, cooking, stoves for baths and summer cottages.

In channel furnaces, hot gases pass through labyrinths of passages, gradually giving off heat. This causes uneven heating, and sometimes destruction of furnace elements. If the length of the channels is insufficient, for example, in sauna stoves, the gases do not have time to cool down, as a result, efficiency decreases, and the stove heats the air.

In bell-type structures, heated smoke rises into the bell - a cavity bounded from above by an overlap, and from below it has an exit. The hot gas at the top of the bell gradually cools down, heating the walls of the furnace, and gradually goes down. The circulation of gases in Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces is shown in the figure.

For full-fledged heat transfer in Kuznetsov's furnaces, not one, but two or three bells are made, and their placement can be either vertical - one above the other, for example, in sauna ovens, and horizontal - in models equipped with a stove bench. Heating and cooking ovens, as a rule, imply a vertical arrangement of hoods.

The hob is located either above the firebox, or forms the arch of the lower bell. In the second case, the temperature on it will be more stable. Do-it-yourself masonry orders, as well as photos of the most popular Kuznetsov furnace designs, are presented below.

Heating and cooking stove

Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

Video: the laying of the Kuznetsov heating and cooking stove

Video: Kuznetsov's stove for a bath

A heating and cooking stove is an indispensable attribute of a village house, as well as recreation areas in a bathhouse or in the country. If you have a diagram, drawings, ordering and detailed instructions, you can fold it yourself, and it will warm the house and delight the owners with a variety of delicious and fresh dishes.

The hearth is the heart of buildings that are not connected to centralized networks. It generates the warmth necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. The microclimate in the building and its service life directly depend on its performance and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, do you agree?

The article presented by us describes in detail how to correctly build a brick oven for a home. The schemes of building a hearth are given, the technological nuances are thoroughly analyzed. We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on the selection and construction of brick stoves.

Novice stove-makers and country property owners who want to control the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we offer, based on construction requirements. Photo images and video guides will be an excellent help in mastering the material.

The constructive abundance of brick ovens is not easy to understand. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip a house with a brick unit, this difficult issue should be studied. It is better to determine in advance the option that is optimal for its purpose and device than to rebuild and modernize.

The division of brick stoves into types is made according to the following aspects:

• Appointment.
• Gas movement type.
• Performance.
• The frequency of the furnace.
• Geometric data.

Ideally, a stove that is perfect for you personally is selected according to two or three of the most important criteria. Let us analyze what should be attributed to the aspects that are significant in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.

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Calculation of heat loss will make it possible to determine the furnace productivity, which should be slightly more than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. In the event that the power of the brick unit is more than the specified limit, another design should be selected.

To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick oven for masonry in a low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph below, which simplifies the calculations for the selection of a stove, is created for rooms with one outer wall.

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Not a single village house is complete without a stove, as it will feed and heat. Today, gas pipelines have been installed in many villages, and it would seem that it is possible to switch to a more convenient method of heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick ovens, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick oven in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the scheme and masonry technology. Before starting to study a specific option, several models should be considered, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up a smaller area in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of brick oven models. Experienced stove-makers can make their own changes to finished projects, as they already know by heart where and how the internal channels must pass through which the smoke is removed. Due to the correct scheme of their placement in the design of the furnace, it will evenly warm up and give most of the heat to the room. It is better for novice craftsmen to accurately follow the already drawn up schemes, orders, without deviating from them a single step, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather laborious work.

Types of brick kilns

By their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, primarily it is necessary to decide what exactly will be required from her.

The cooking stove has a cast iron hob for cooking and heating water. Usually, such stoves are small in size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove is capable, in addition to cooking, to warm a small room.

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or a country house with a large area, and its design sometimes includes a stove bench, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a water heating tank and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include a hob and only serves to heat rooms. Such a structure is able to warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the best place to place the oven

Having chosen the right oven model, you need to look for a suitable place for it. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or embedded in a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desire of the owner of the house.

• A stove in the middle of a large room can divide it into two different zones, such as a kitchen and a dining room or living room. The hob will go out into the kitchen, and a flat wall with well-made masonry will become a designer decoration of the living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to finish building a wall to the stove, and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be insulated from the stove with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
• It is undesirable to build a stove near the outer wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
• When installing the stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The estimated place of construction must be well measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the structure so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
• In order to make it easier to work, it is necessary to find an ordering scheme for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation site, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires a different amount of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the masonry tools are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and devices for the construction of any furnace you will need:

The "goat" is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at a height when the stove is raised above a person's height. They are convenient in that the master stove-maker can not only climb on them, but also put a container with the solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

Another variant of the stand, more compact, is the "tragus". You need to have two such devices, since if you put them at a certain distance from each other and put thick boards on top, you get the same platform. You can use and separately, as stairs.

From the tools, you will need to prepare the following set:

1. Pickaxe will be needed to separate and cut bricks.

2. A broom, made of bast, to remove dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mop inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners from the inside and outside of the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the vertical of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to break the brick apart and chip off small protrusions of the hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be used to nibble, bend and straighten the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for knocking bricks into masonry when they are difficult to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as parsing old masonry.

9. A trowel (trowel) of different sizes - for applying mortar and removing excess protruding.

10. A rule will be needed to level the foundation surface.

11. A lead scribe is used for marking, especially if you plan to finish the stove with tiles.

12. A stukalce is a piece of pipe, which is also used for trimming tiles; instead of a hammer, they hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal rod-scribe for marking.

15. The level is needed to check the horizontal rows and vertical walls.

16. The rasp is used to relieve sagging and lapping lumps.

17. Joining is necessary for the accuracy of the design of the seams, if the oven will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Capacity for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve to help thin the mortar.

Building materials

The number of materials will depend on the selected stove, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating type, you do not need a hob, oven cabinet, or water tank. But usually a standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Door for the blower.

2. Door for furnaces.

3. Doors for cleaning ovens.

4. Chimney valve.

5. Multi-ring burner.

6. The hob.

7. The grate of the grate.

Other metal elements may require:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red tempered bricks.

2. Fireclay bricks.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. The foundation will require cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.

5. You will also need a heat-resistant material for the protective wall decoration of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic tile for the floor.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Preparing a place for the construction of a stove

Usually, the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is being erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what floor is arranged in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and poured completely, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the furnace is not intended to be too massive, then you can start laying the furnace directly on the concrete floor, having previously laid a sheet of roofing material under the laying.
• If the foundation is tape or the floor is wooden, then you will have to arrange the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• A pit is being dug in the opened ground, 400-500 mm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit a "pillow" of 100 mm is made of sand, and then the same thickness is made of rubble, the layers are well compacted.
• Further, a formwork for pouring concrete is arranged around the perimeter of the pit - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The bottom layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, can consist of rubble, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed evenly over the entire area, and left to solidify.
• After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with a fully prepared concrete solution and leveled with a rule, and the upper formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it is necessary, starting from the second day, to moisten it with water, which will improve the uniformity of the maturation of the cement mortar and prevent cracks from forming.

• A completely finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing material to create a layer of waterproofing. Then a marking is made on this surface - the shape of the base of the furnace is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry laying

• Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove-maker take his time putting bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work will be carried out for the first time, it is best to bring the entire furnace structure dry.
• Carrying out this process clearly, with a constant glance at the existing scheme, it is possible to understand the internal structure of the chimney ducts and the structure of the firebox and blower.
• For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - it will be filled with mortar during the main masonry, forming seams.
• After the entire model of the stove to the chimney has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each of the rows can be folded separately, if there is enough space in the room, and numbered, indicating the row and specific details in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
• It should be noted right away that during the final laying, each of the rows is also better first, for control, to lay out again dry, and then immediately fix it on the mortar.
• In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on a mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
• Having laid two to three rows, until the mortar has set, the seams are made out with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it a little with water from a spray bottle.
• We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can go directly to the masonry.

The video presented shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, there are no other additional functions included in it:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Can be called the tidiest and most compact stove, suitable for small spaces. This stove can well be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with flue ducts located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, giving off heat to the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows the "Swede", which has a wider gable part than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows, a niche for drying is made above the stove. This version of the furnace is twice as wide as the second model.

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, a niche is arranged above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe is on the other side of the structure, and the consistent roundness of the corners. When laying in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The design is laid out, relying on the ordering scheme:

Although this diagram shows that from the first row they begin to lay out the blower chamber, all the same it is worth laying it out in a solid plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will follow exactly the scheme, and the first solid row can be called "zero".

• So, the formation of the blowing chamber begins from the first row.
• A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is fixed on a wire and temporarily propped up with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

• From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be taken out and doors are also installed on them.
• On the fifth row, the grate is laid.

• The firebox door is also fixed on the sixth row with the help of wire, and is also supported for a while by bricks installed on the grate, and alsoif necessary, the support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical chimney ducts is laid.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked with a brick, the wire of which it is fixed, retracted into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, a cooking stove is laid on the left opening, strips of asbestos are laid under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel corner.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row, the cooking chamber is displayed.
• On the seventeenth row, metal stripes are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three chimney ducts.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a drying niche begin to form.
• At 22- ohm in a row, the chamber door is blocked by masonry.
• On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely closed, and at its end a hole is left, which will continue the flue duct.
• At 24- ohm a number of metal strips cover the drying niche.
• At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
• At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
• At 28- ohm the entire chamber is completely covered.
• At 30- ohm row, two valves are installed on the chimney ducts. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

• 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
• From 35th to 38th, the construction of pipe fluffing begins.
• Next, there is the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, only it is necessary to carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the chimney ducts. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
• At 27- ohm a row is put another chimney valve.
• At 29- ohm make the expansion of the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought back to its initial form.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is led out through the roof.

When the chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be isolated from it with flammable materials - this can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located along the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof, through which the pipe passes, after construction, must be closed with a waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.

Installation of other elements of the furnace

As mentioned above, other elements can be built into the oven, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If an oven is provided in the design, then it is most often installed on the same level with the firebox or hob. This is important for it to heat up quickly and evenly.

• In the place where it will be installed, metal corners are first mounted - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Further, the oven is wrapped with an asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet to last longer.

Video: masonry technology for an efficient oven with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and adhesives for special purposes

Masonry mixtures and adhesives for special purposes

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the furnace structure, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the chimney, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, it is necessary to provide an opening for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come from it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it on the same level with the hob, above the firebox, when it will be heated only from below. In this case, it is best to lay a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this version of the installation is not built into the walls of the furnace.

The disadvantage of such an installation is that less space remains for the hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means that the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think over everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a structure structure with a scheme-order.

It should be noted that the laying of the stove is a real art, and even not every experienced craftsman always succeeds perfectly. Therefore, if there are no skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything right.

A small brick oven is sometimes quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it all the time. It will allow you to quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this and instructions on the rules for manufacturing will be offered. You can also watch the video in this article and select the desired modification.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick ovens for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; before making a final decision, it is worth getting acquainted with them.

• The compactness of a brick or device structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built of wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, the suit can quite flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney and the device itself must be sealed, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide that gets inside can lead to rather sad consequences;
• The stove, which is placed in the summer cottage in the winter, must withstand without kindling for a long enough time and not get damp at the same time;
• Warming up and quick kindling of the appliance, the spread of heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because during the rain or at the end of difficult work you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors - so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term preservation of heat is an extremely necessary moment if you go to a house with an overnight stay;
• It is almost impossible to do without a hob in a country house, especially if the electricity is periodically turned off in the village and there is no gas supply;
• Also, an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be melted with various options - brushwood, coal, wood or household waste;
• It is desirable that the furnace be able to mount a hot water supply register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it on your own, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of the masters in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add a certain gray spot to the overall design.

Brick stoves

A small brick oven for a summer residence is used quite often.

But when installing, you will need to take into account the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it distributes heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the stove was brought out correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but for this structure it will be necessary to create a solid foundation that will be isolated from the foundation of the walls. This is a bath condition, if you do not comply with it, then the masonry can lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull the base of the furnace;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximized after a period when it was not used, several drying furnaces need to be carried out without significant loads. In each of them, we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

• It is due to the fact that the brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are mounted in the country house only when they live in the house most of the time and there is a possibility of holding a firebox;
• Residents of private houses consider useful and real only those buildings that are made of bricks. At the same time, heating devices made of other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special comfort and a unique atmosphere. And what is more important - they are multifunctional. Furnace professionals have developed a huge variety of models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installing a small oven

A small brick oven with your own hands is installed without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are just making an oven with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a rather heat-intensive structure;
• Second optionif you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply brick it to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your building will take up more space, and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of mud;
• Boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron stove;
• Furnace door;
• Lattice;
• Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove is 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is placed on the edge or flat. This type of oven perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the foundation is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick, sturdy planks that are well anchored.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has a more functional ability and a heating part, in which the cooking part is provided. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace is erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to melt the stove with paper and chips, but do not take the logs, because with sudden temperature changes, cracks in the solution can form. This will subsequently lead to smoke or incorrect air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry out properly. This usually takes about a week.

Masonry mix

Everything can be done by hand. Then the price will be much lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in the masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

• For laying bricks, a slurry-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screening instead of sand for the mixture is used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or more rows of masonry. If ляется is added for the M400 cement grade, then for the screed the screenings must be mixed in a ratio of 1/6;
• A mixture of sand and clay is a little more difficult to prepare, because it will take much longer. In order for lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remained in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - here it all depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without problems, leaving no traces, and in its density it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How is the stove made

How to make a small brick stove now we will consider in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build the stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fireproof material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand the burning of coal. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for a mini-stove, and instead of it we put roofing material, film, glassine or hydrosol. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• On the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter), it is required to pour and level sand;
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After that, we align all the bricks at one level so that they are strictly in a horizontal position;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can start installing the blower door. It is imperative that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We fix it with a wire, after which you can safely proceed to laying the next one;
• Fireclay brick is used for the third row of a mini-stove, after which a grate is installed. It is mounted above the blower only when the third brick row is fully formed;
• We make the next one out of bricks, but we lay them on the edge; in the middle of the chimney, it is necessary to lay supports for internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a slight protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called kick bricks;
• After that, we install the furnace door. Again, before proceeding with the installation of the door, it must be wrapped with a cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is fixed with wire and fixed with several stones for a while. The first fits in the back, and the second on top of the door;
• Also, for the reliability of fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, which is twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat, here we must check the contour of the last row. But the sixth row fits with an edge. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
• Lay the brick on the 7th row flat. Next, we expose a couple of bricks with an edge and proceed to the back wall;
• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, then make sure that it overlaps the fire door, over which it will end. It was at this time that we install a beveled brick above the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out the soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different coefficients of thermal expansion, we do not place the slab on the clay. After that, you can go to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
• When working with the next, the formation of a chimney will be required, which will expand from the back. To make a stove of just such a plan, there is no need for a packed tube, which will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. There are various schemes for chimneys. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove must have a straight version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget about inserting a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will dock with the metal one. If the smoke goes to the side, then it must be covered with several brick rows;
• After that, we take out the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from the dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
• White oven. We protect the metal part of the furnace itself and its walls with foil. So that it does not turn yellow over time, milk and a small amount of blue must be added to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of the bricks and the cast-iron surface;
• Carefully close the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured out under the brick does not wake up;
• After, along the edging of the building, we nail the plinth, which will protect the stove from the raining of sand. We nail it flush and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you carry out the first heating with chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything is thoroughly dry.

A small brick oven for a summer residence is made quite quickly and it will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and select the option you want. The instruction will not let you make mistakes.

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The oven is a crude source of considerable confusion. The point is that “rude” or “rude” is not a well-established term. In the West and, partially, in the South Slavic languages, this is either just a home heating and cooking stove, or a wood stove for a summer kitchen with 150-200 bricks. Well, according to acc. Dutch women, Swedes, bath (!), bell-type (!!) stoves and others fly out to a request in Runet. You can even find statements, they say, there was once an outstanding designer of Grub stoves somewhere.

In fact, a stove with a rough, or just rough, is a compact heating and cooking stove with a heating plate, separate from the stove in the heat cycle, but technologically combined, i.e. they are built together (see also below). Hence the conclusion that the bell-type can not be rude - heating shields to ovens are always ducted. Do-it-yourself coarse construction is simpler than a channel furnace of equal thermal power with a single thermal cycle, requires less materials and weighs less. However, its thermal efficiency (analogous to the efficiency for furnaces) is lower. Therefore, they are roughly built in seasonally inhabited premises or small houses with good thermal insulation, where some excessive fuel consumption in absolute and monetary terms does not hit the budget.

Note: a heating and cooking brick made of 12 kW of heat requires up to 1200 bricks; of the same power without a hob - 1200-1350, - 1800-2000, - 2500-3500 bricks.

Varieties

A do-it-yourself pipe can be built with a shield built into the body (structure) of the furnace, and then it looks indistinguishable from the stove, pos. 1 in fig. The rough-plate is compact, the least material-intensive, the lightest, requires a minimum amount of additional construction work, but its thermal power is limited to 10-12 kW, and then with great stress. Therefore, rough-slabs are placed mostly in seasonal dachas (spring-autumn) with occasional trips there in winter, hunting lodges, etc. An important advantage of a rough-slab is that it can be built without a foundation directly on the floor, if its bearing capacity is at least 500 kgf / sq. m.

A coarse with an attached shield (pos. 2) is structurally more complicated and heavier, although a simplified foundation (see below) is suitable for it, but its thermal power is potentially greater. Rough on wood with an attached shield is capable of developing up to 16-18 kW; on coal - up to 20-22 kW. The flow diagram of flue gases in the rough with a shield is given in pos. 3; the popular Galanka oven was built on this basis. However, you need to know that it makes no sense to build a rough for more than 3 turns: such a furnace with a single cycle will be simpler and cheaper. In addition, during the construction, it will be necessary to pay particular attention to some of the features of rude stoves, which are discussed in a significant part of the article.

Note: wood-burning can also be done with a stove bench, see below. It is undesirable to heat such coal, the stove bench overheats.

Why is rude - rude

Visually, a rough stove can be distinguished from a stove with a later attached shield by the integrity of the structure (pos. 4), but in essence they are one and the same. The calculation of a heat-efficient furnace is very complicated and requires a fairly deep knowledge of heat engineering, and the development of a furnace design based on its results also requires solid practical experience. It is much easier to develop and build a rough because its furnace (fire) part and the shield are calculated separately, and then "stitched" together according to the rules for pairing building structures, taking into account the requirements of heating technology. Naturally, the thermal efficiency of the resulting device will be lower, because the interaction of the thermal cycles of the firing section and the shield is not taken into account, namely, due to its accounting, it is possible to increase the efficiency of a single cycle furnace. Therefore, if you live in a harsh climate, rough may only make sense to you as a seasonal temporary stove.

Firebox, flap and chimney

The main differences are rough from a solid fuel stove - a more powerful firebox and the absence of a pass (smoke tooth) in the furnace part. The tooth retains hot gases under the hob, which in the summer stove reduces fuel consumption for cooking. In rude it is not needed, tk. excess heat will be used for heating.

A coarse stove should have a more powerful firebox because the shield provides additional resistance to the flow of flue gases. A chimney with enhanced draft will not help here: the gases in the flap will immediately expand, cool down. Their thermal energy will be converted into mechanical energy, which will successfully fly into the pipe. Figuratively speaking, a firebox with a chimney in a stove with a shield works on the principle of push-and-pull, and “push” here is a firebox of greater power. This explains the special requirements for the firebox and stove fittings. Coarse, see below.

Shields

Depending on the purpose, coarse heating shields for them are made of different types. Diagrams of heating shields for stoves are given in Fig. below; the fuel part is shown conventionally everywhere.

1. Consistent stroke with short vertical channels. The least material intensive and the easiest to build. The resistance to gas flow is greatest. The compactness and heat efficiency of the furnace are average. Most often used scheme;
2. Sequential stroke with horizontal channels. The weight and dimensions of the oven are the same as in the previous one. case, but building a shield with horizontal channels is much more difficult. Resistance to gas flow approx. 1.5 times less. As a result, the heat efficiency of the oven is higher. Perhaps the device of a couch, i.e. the upper channel is not very hot;
3. Consistent stroke with long vertical channels. Thermal efficiency is the same as a shield with horizontal channels, technological complexity - like a shield with short vertical channels. It occupies the smallest area, but requires a lot of materials and a good foundation (see below) due to the high specific pressure on the support. The best option for a home heating stove for 2-3 rooms, see below;
4. Parallel move. Highest thermal efficiency, lowest weight per unit of heat output. The occupied area and technological complexity are the greatest. It can be used with a reduced power firebox. Optimum for an extension to an existing slab without reworking.

Note: there are also shields of a series-parallel circuit or chess. The most difficult, but also the lightest, have the least resistance to the flow of gases. The only possible option for a rough house with a heated attic, see below.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are rough - compactness and the possibility of building in an existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in the structure of a furnace of the same dimensions, it will quickly become unusable from excessive heat load. If special requirements are not met:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry mortars.
• Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installing oven fittings.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation for roughness is shown in Fig. A crushed stone pad without a sand bed is leveled into the horizon before pouring. Grouting mortar M150 - cement M300 and sand 1: 2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Do not forget to support the cut logs! Leaving their ends dangling is a common but gross mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in the plan should protrude at least 100-150 mm onto the furnace contour.

Note: a brick bed on the foundation for the furnace is laid out with dressing in the rows and between the rows in the same way as the first 2 rows of the masonry of the furnace structure, see below.

Solutions

To fold coarse, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on a lime mortar as one that combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the quarry should be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly desirable to take sand for clay mortar from mountainous or ravine, with rough grains. Ordinary clay - purchased oven clay, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is not very suitable for coarse masonry.

Masonry

For rough masonry, an oven brick is used and, if the order (see below) is provided, fireclay brick; the red worker is of the highest quality - light red (completely annealed), without spots of burnout, distortion and swelling. Dry-formed bricks are absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly followed. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out on dry; detected defects of cutting / chipping bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. Plump all the bricks in a barrel indiscriminately!
• A layer of 5 mm mortar is applied to the bed and poke the brick to be laid.
• The brick to be laid is laid with a smooth movement slightly inclined and moved to the previous one so that no air bubbles remain in the seam.
• Press the brick until the seam converges to 3 mm; you can't knock!
• The initial joint between fireclay and ordinary masonry is 8-10 mm; after pressing - 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam are removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The gaps in the joints found after removing the excess mortar are filled with the mortar by indentation without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to study visually a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves can see below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking oven

Fittings

Fittings and grates for rough need cast iron; doors and latches - with a mounting skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Steel welded or cast iron fittings with lugs for straight whiskers (laid along the corresponding walls of the furnace) are unsuitable in this case. However, place doors / slides as shown in fig. on the right, you can't be rude; it's not at all by the stove rules. For a dacha Dutch woman for 2.5 bricks in the plan, which is heated once or twice a season, maybe it will do, but not for the rude.

It is necessary, firstly, to squeeze the mustache (wire - galvanized 2-3 mm) with a wrap so that they do not move. Press down at first not tightly, put it at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inner side of the masonry). Then tighten gently, shake the door / latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with an asbestos cord (or from basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing fittings in the oven.

Video: installing the door in the oven

Video: grate and stove

Examples of constructions

The figure below shows the order of a simple rude for a seasonal dacha or a temporarily inhabited house. A feature is the minimal use of fireclay bricks (highlighted by textured filling), which, generally speaking, is difficult to do without, and a niche above the hob. In cold weather, it speeds up cooking, and if it is already warm enough outside, it does not allow the stove to overheat the room during cooking.

On the trail. fig. - the ordering of a single-burner rough is also compact and light, but more complicated, with a combined channel system. This is an option more for a hunting lodge or summer cottage, where they spend weekends in winter.

Further in Fig. - ordering of the house heating and cooking coarse with switching over to winter and summer running (two-way). This stove is rather complicated, but it is quite economical both for winter and summer running. Option for a permanently inhabited summer cottage or a one-room house.

On the trail. fig. - ordering and drawings of heating coarse - fireplace stove (furnace door can be glass) for a house of 2-3 rooms. In a 2-room one, this rude is placed in a wall, and in a 3-room one - with a facade in the living room and in the rear in 2 adjacent rooms; the partition between them is on the back side (back) of the oven. Agree, 650 bricks for a heating stove for a 3-room house is not much.

Now - in fig. below the diagram and ordering are rough with a stove bench: cooking part in the kitchen / hallway with a bathroom; lounger - in the living room. This is already a very complex construction for an experienced stove-maker. For the firebox in warm weather, the stove bench is covered with a feather bed, etc., so that the room does not overheat, but then the windows in the kitchen / hallway will have to be kept wide open, because switching to summer running is not provided.

And finally - rough, so to speak, aerobatics, see fig. below: for a house with a heated attic, where an additional shield with checkerboard channels is located (in the inset at the bottom right). This stove can also be a fireplace stove if you take a glass door of the firebox. It is 2-way; ZLH in the drawings - a summer valve.

About chimneys

The chimney for rough must meet all fire safety rules. It is only necessary to note here that the best chimney for a coarse one is a sandwich one, because it also does not require additional capital construction work.

Finally

If rough is your first oven (which is quite possible), take your time building, model first on the table. Suddenly there is a little extra money - you can buy a set for modeling furnaces with ordering diagrams and plastic bricks on a scale, these are sold. No - bricks can also be cut to scale from Styrofoam. Then it is convenient to imitate the seams of the masonry using strips of thick paper or thin cardboard, depending on the selected scale.