Autumn is just approaching and the harvest is not yet fully harvested. There is still a little time left and the beds will remain completely empty. So it's time to prepare the site for the upcoming season. This is done in order to prepare the soil, provide it with the necessary elements for better growing crops in the next year and, accordingly, so that the harvest is rich and healthy. But what kind of procedures and activities need to be carried out, we will tell you in this article.
Preparing the beds in the fallThe soil loses its unique properties every year, allowing it to grow strong vegetation and harvest at the end of the season. Therefore, she needs our help. Regular application of fertilizers with substances such as potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus helps to make up for the lack of these elements. We do not see this deficit, but we will be able to understand what it is, only by the state of the plants.
Autumn is the optimal period to enrich the depleted soil with various dressings and fertilizers, which will be absorbed and assimilated during the cold period. And when you start planting and sowing garden crops in the spring, they will be able to get good nutrition, since during the winter the fertilizers were processed by the soil into the form necessary for vegetation.
For organic matter to take the form necessary for perception by vegetation, it takes some time. That is precisely why, in order not to wait for spring and when everything is processed and it is necessary to bring the nutrient medium into the ground in autumn. During a long cold period, the elements will decompose into components and will be ready to feed crops and seedlings for planting.
But fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly. It is necessary to take into account a number of nuances, namely the condition of the soil, the quality of the soil. And also plan future plantings in advance, because the same complementary food is not suitable for all plants, so take note of this and start from all of the above in order to choose the right nutrient medium.
Fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly Now let's go directly to the consideration of the proposed topic in more detail, consider each nuance.
Why prepare the soil in advance?
This question is often asked by gardeners, because there is spring and then, before planting vegetables, you can prepare the land. But this is not quite the correct line of thinking. Because, as we said, fertilizer takes time for crops to be able to consume it to grow. And in the spring, there is already a lot of trouble: prepare seeds, grow seedlings, prepare holes for planting and plan the days of planting seedlings in the ground. Agree, this is a very time-consuming process, and you may simply not have time to do everything.
Preparing the soil in advance This is why the autumn preparatory work is very important. Having spent a little more effort in the outgoing year, you will be able to pay more attention directly to planting work, because the site will be completely ready to grow a new crop. So do not be lazy, and you can slowly plan your actions with the arrival of spring.
How to properly prioritize preparation
Preparation should begin with clearing the area from the remains of tops, weeds and other vegetation. If they are healthy, put them in a compost pit for drying out, then you can use this to improve the quality of the soil. If necessary, you can add chalk or hydrated lime to such fertilizers to normalize the acidity of the soil. If they show signs of disease, it is better to burn them outside the territory.
Preparation should begin with clearing the area from the remains of tops Pay special attention to weeds. They need to be removed with special care: root systems, creeping stems. The garden should be completely rid of them so as not to waste time on this in the spring, when they grow faster than vegetables on the lured soil.
Now that you have cleared the entire area of \u200b\u200bweeds and their debris. It is necessary to start enriching the soil with nitrogen fertilizers, potash and phosphorus - they are suitable for all plants. Since nothing will grow on the beds, urea can also be added in winter, it is not difficult to calculate: 20-25 g per 1 m 2; superphosphate complementary foods in a ratio of 18-20 g per 1 m 2; potassium chloride in a proportion of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. Do not be afraid to add chlorine, by the time of spring it will no longer be in the soil. In addition, it is good to put a layer of manure, already rotted, in a proportion of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2 or deciduous humus of 3-4 kg per 1 m 2. Also, furnace ash, wood ash or soot will be useful in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m 2.
To lighten heavy soil or clay in your garden, add 1 bucket of river sand for each square meter, after mixing it with compost. This will make the soil looser and its fertile qualities will hang.
And vice versa, if you have sandy soil in which neither water nor nutrients linger, you need to mix it with clay, also in a bucket per square meter, add compost in an amount of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2, humus from leaves 3-4 kg per 1 m 2, as well as sawdust 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil, so make sure that when laying them, they are soaked in water and a little misty.
Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil Land with an acidity index below 6 units must be enriched with chalk or hydrated lime. When the acid-base balance is less than 4.5, it is necessary to use limestone in an amount of 200-250 g per 1 m 2. With indicators in the range of 4.6-5.5, add chalk in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m 2.
All the substances described are introduced in the fall at the time of digging the garden. First, you distribute it over the top layer of turf, then dig up the soil onto a full bayonet of a shovel, mixing all the necessary ingredients with the ground.
You need to dig up the beds correctly
There are two main ways to dig up garden beds: moldboard and moldboard.
You need to dig up the beds correctly Let us first consider the dump-free method, it consists in the fact that the earth layer does not break and turn over. Thus, there is a complete preservation of the beneficial microflora of the soil of the lower and upper layers. The formed clods of soil should also not be broken.
The dumping method is completely opposite in action: the clods must be turned over and crushed. This method is most often used in autumn soil preparation. This is the only way we can place fertilizers in the soil, while distributing them evenly. But harmful insects and dangerous microbes who decide to spend the winter in the ground will literally be dragged out. It is not recommended to break up lumps of soil that are on the surface itself, because deep freezing will occur. But if you intend to prepare completely and clearly delineate the beds, chop up all the lumps. Then it is necessary to level the soil over the entire surface, this can be achieved by layering the soil during digging, making them higher than the rest of the soil by a few centimeters. Thus, the sun's rays in the spring will warm such beds faster than other land on the territory.
We prepare the beds for each vegetable separately
We examined the general features of how to prepare for planting plants in the winter: feeding, coating, dumping, layering of soil on plots with an increase in their level. But these are only general recommendations. But our task is not so much to find out the basic recommendations, it is to competently cultivate the site for each individual type of vegetable crops. And all this is also carried out after the harvest, namely in the autumn period.
Beet planting beds
For sowing a vegetable, you need to choose a well-lit place, with drained and light soil. Then you can safely expect a good root crop. Optimally, plots should be prepared on rocks or loam, with a neutral acid-base balance. Other types of soil are poorly suited to growing this crop, even with normal nutrients. It is not necessary to plant in places infused with water. And it is worth abandoning planting in the soil of high acidity.
Beet planting beds It is better to plant a vegetable in a vacant place from cucumbers, zucchini, early varieties of potatoes. And also good predecessors are varieties of early sweet peppers, eggplants and tomatoes. And it is categorically impossible to sow table beets in place of spinach, carrots, rapeseed, Cabbage and Swiss chard.
Be sure to lay a layer of compost during the autumn preparatory work or deciduous humus at the rate of ½ bucket per 1 m 2 of one plot. As a fertilizer with minerals, potassium chloride in a ratio of 12-14 g per 1 m 2 and ammonium nitrate with superphosphate in a ratio of 22-25 g per 1 m 2 will be good.
Please note that in no case should fresh manure be introduced into the soil during preparation, as you risk growing a crop with a high nitrate content in the coming year.
Prepares a plot for squash and pumpkin
These vegetables are not picky at all and treat well almost all fertilizers that we apply to the soil. They will also like almost completely rotted manure, at the rate of 3-4 kg per square meter of plot, but not more. It is laid for digging.
Prepares a plot for squash and pumpkin The soil must have a neutral acid-base balance. If your kidney has a high acid content, do chalking or add limestone.
It is optimal to plant cultivated plants in places from under potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops in general and after legumes. But do not populate the area left over from cucumbers, squash and zucchini.
Pay attention to the type of soil, with a high clay content, you need to add ½ bucket of humus and 1 bucket of river sand per 1 square meter and dig everything up well. The same measures are necessary for general preparation in the autumn for pumpkins and zucchini. Fertilizers with a mineral base are also necessary: \u200b\u200bsuperphosphate 10-15 g, ash 250 g and potassium phosphate 15 g - this will be enough.
Sandy lands can also be equipped for growing squash and pumpkins, for this add a bucket of clay and ½ a bucket of deciduous humus per 1 m 2 of the garden.
Preparing a place for planting herbs
Dill and other greens also cannot be planted anywhere in order to get a good harvest. They will grow successfully in a place free of cabbage, tomatoes and onions. But don't plant herbs in the carrot, parsnip, and celery area.
Place for planting herbs Good illumination of the sowing area is also important, it will also be well warmed up. In autumn, cover the place planned for greenery with coniferous branches so that the snow lies there longer, so the land will be more fertile. Check the PH balance of the area. After all, vitamin bushes grow poorly on high acidity. Add lime or chalk to normalize acidity levels.
These plants do not require any special preparation. Dig the garden bed no deeper than 23 cm, be sure to add 2-3 kg of rotted manure per 1 m 2, 25-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 8-10 g of potassium sulfate, 10-12 g of superphosphate for the same 1 m 2. With the arrival of spring, you just need to loosen the soil well and organize the holes for sowing. It is also necessary to thoroughly spill the plots with water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2 and compact the soil a little so that the seeds do not "drown". The sowing holes should be 2 cm deep.
Preparing the ground for tomatoes
Tomatoes should be planted in the ground instead of table beets, cucumbers, onions, legumes, carrots, lettuce, herbs, corn and courgettes. Late-ripening cabbage, potatoes, eggplant and bell peppers are considered bad predecessors.
Preparing the ground for tomatoes After the chosen place, you should proceed to the selection of the type of soil. The soil must be fertile. Excessively acidic soil should be fed with lime in a proportion of 150-200 g per 1 m 2, but this will not work with any acidity. If the soil consists of sandstone or loam, then you will need to add 250 g of limestone per 1 m 2 for digging, with medium or heavy loam, you will need to add 350 g, also under a shovel.
Take your time with fertilizing the site. Prepare superphosphates, tomatoes like it, and just spread it all over the garden without digging over the top layer.
Since tomato bushes are tall, you should not make a bed for them with an increase in the level. Limit yourself to 23 cm wide and 100 cm long, you don't need to do more in volume.
Plots for planting cucumbers
And of course, we select a plot for this vegetable crop. There are few places where you can find a vegetable garden where cucumbers do not grow. It is better to plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, legumes, spinach, onions, early varieties of cabbage, as well as cauliflower, carrots and greens. And you should beware of the place after cucumbers, melons, watermelons, pumpkins and squash.
Plots for planting cucumbers Try to prepare the soil and make it light in the fall. For cucumber seedlings, loamy or sandy loam soil is most suitable. Clayy and heavy soils require the addition of sand: 1 bucket per 1 m 2 for a shovel. The soil can be slightly acidic, cucumbers feel calm there, so if there is only such a piece of land left, do not worry.
And please note that it is also necessary to add 5-6 kg of dumped manure, and then dig it up with a full shovel.
We lay complementary foods for warm beds
Also, autumn is very suitable for the construction of insulated beds. To do this, you need boards to mount a box or box, as a rule, they are made 1 m * 2 m.In the bottom layer we lay large branches, bark, thick stems of plants, for example, corn, it can also be cuts of logs and pieces of hemp or boards. Further, a layer of sand, sawdust, chains, peelings of vegetables and plant residues, even a layer of fallen leaves, humus is poured and the ash is distributed. When laying these layers, take into account the fact that soil, mixed with compost, up to 30 cm in height, must still fit on top, in which the plants will be planted.
Complementary food for warm beds Do I need mulching
If you have a question about the need to mulch the beds that you prepared so diligently, then yes, of course this event needs to be held. Created on the basis of pure organic substances, it in no way can harm or affect the active vital activity of all beneficial bacteria in the plots you have created. In early spring, you just need to remove the used mulch from the surface. The plot is now ready to receive new plants, and the fertile land will help grow them.
The summer cottage season is almost over, the main crops have been collected and sent for storage. It would seem that the time has come to put aside hoes, watering cans, flat cutters and exhale ... No matter how it is! Autumn work in the garden is no less important for the future harvest than spring work. Especially for those who are trying to follow the principles of natural farming and grow organic vegetables, berries and fruits.
How to prepare your beds for winter? What should be done on the site in the autumn? How to avoid depletion of the soil, restore its fertility for the coming sowing season? Let's try to figure out what work we have to do in the fall.
Fertilizing the soil
Practitioners of natural farming in unison urge everyone not to dig in any way. And even more so, you should not plow your site in the fall, applying manure and other fertilizers - it is wasted work.
It is better to scatter all fertilizers over the soil surface, without smelling anything. If you keep animals and have dung, great. It can be spread out on the vacant beds, interspersed with tops, leaves or sawdust. If there is no manure, you do not need to spend money on its purchase (with purchased manure, a huge number of diseases are very often brought into the site). It is better to scatter the ash over all the beds: the more, the better. Do not throw away branches when pruning trees and bushes, do not clutter garbage cans with rotten boards, do not throw out newspapers, paper and cardboard. Burn it all and save up ash - one of the best organic fertilizers.
Mulching
Another commandment of natural agriculture: return to the ground everything that cultivated plants have absorbed. So that the soil does not deplete, but remains alive and fertile, it must be provided with a large amount of organic matter. And when is there more organic matter, if not in the fall?
Leave all the tops on the beds, cover them with a thick layer of leaf litter, needles, grass and others, and you can cover everything with cardboard on top. Such mulching not only enriches the soil with nutrients, but also protects it from freezing.
Don't forget about tree trunks. They also need to be mulched to insulate the roots. All materials will do, except for straw and hay: mice like to settle in them.
Sowing siderates
If there is not enough mulch for the whole garden, we sow siderates. The biggest plus of green manure is that with their help it is easy and simple to carry out crop rotation on the site. With proper greening, you can even grow the same vegetable in the same garden from year to year.
Two golden rules for sideration:
1. Think about past and future landings. Many summer residents, without hesitation, sow the entire area with mustard and do not worry. And it is worth it, because mustard should not grow where cabbage and other crucifers have already grown or are planned for next year. So it is with other vegetables. Therefore, before sowing green manure, read.
2. Do not bury the grown green manure in the soil. This is unnecessary work and useless exercise. Your task is to sow green manure and ensure their growth, and bacteria, worms and their comrades will themselves process the green mass into substances necessary for the soil.
Composting
In autumn, during this period, generous with all kinds of organic waste, it's time to lay a compost heap in order to get a good portion of ready-made fresh compost for spring planting.
At the bottom of a compost pit, box, box or heap, first place branches and other large wood waste, they will rot for a long time and supply the whole heap with heat. Sprinkle grass, food waste, or feces on top. Then a layer of leaves. Now you need to sprinkle the organic matter with earth and spill it with a solution of the EM preparation.
The next layer can be cardboard or paper, then again grass, kitchen waste or tops, and then leaves, a little earth and watering with EM-coy again. So you need to alternate nitrogen and carbon layers until the organic matter ends. From above, the compost is covered with foil and left in this form until spring.
By the time of the first planting, the bacteria will have time to do all the necessary work and provide you with ripe, non-peroxidized compost, without which, you must agree, in the spring, without hands.
Arrangement of warm beds and trenches
Have the compost heap been laid, but there is still organic matter left? It's time to arrange a couple of new warm beds or organic and other vegetables on the site.
How to make various warm beds is described in detail in one of the previous articles:.
Fruit tree trunks protection
Young tree trunks with tender bark need protection from rodents. It is best to tie the trunks with spruce branches (spruce branches) - it allows oxygen to the tree and does not create a greenhouse effect.
You can tie the stems of wormwood to the trunk, hares and mice cannot stand the smell of wormwood.
In any case, work on tying young fruit trees should be carried out in late autumn, with the onset of the first severe cold weather. Otherwise, you risk reducing their natural winter hardiness.
Cleaning tools and equipment
Finally, when the garden is prepared not only for the winter, but even for the coming spring, you can take up inventory and tools.
Drain the barrels under fruit trees and bushes and turn the barrels upside down.
Be sure to wash and dry your garden tools. Sharpen your flat cutters, secateurs, scissors so that you do not waste time on preparation during the hot seeding season.
Perform an audit of seeds and various preparations, if you use them (for example, is there enough EO concentrate, dietary supplements, salt, soda, potassium permanganate? Is there a laundry soap? And birch tar? Do I need to purchase biological products for pest diseases?) Make a list of that what you need to buy for the winter.
If you prepare your garden well for the coming cold weather, the soil enriched with a large amount of organic matter will have time to restore fertility, you will get enough compost by the new summer season, and you can plant seeds or seedlings in freshly prepared warm beds much earlier than in ordinary ones.
We wish you success and big harvests!
After harvesting, you need to prepare the beds for the new season - dig up, apply fertilizer. Preparing for the winter for the garden is as important as watering and weeding. How to properly care for the beds in the fall?
Whatever grows on your site - potatoes or raspberries, cucumbers or honeysuckle - growing and caring for all these plants requires preparing fertile soil for winter.
The main reason why you need to prepare the beds in the fall is the spring lack of time. As soon as the warming begins, the gardener has a lot of work to do. And if the gardener is still working, then he simply will not have enough time for all the spring "rituals". October-November is the best time for a number of works in the upcoming sowing campaign.
Things to do in the fall:
- Collect the tops and place them in a compost pit. It is good if you have 2 or 3 such pits or boxes. You will be able to use the compost from these as it matures.
- Dig up the beds. The purpose of digging is to destroy weeds, pests, and give the soil a better structure.
In the fall and winter, you will have time to plan plantings for next year. A ready-made and thoughtful plan will help you not to fuss in the spring, trying to remember what else you wanted to plant.
How to properly lay the garden
For good yields, plant the beds correctly. There are 3 types of bedding:
- standard (flat, at ground level);
- sublime (raised by 10-15 cm);
- high (raised by more than 20 cm).
An ordinary bed is done by simple marking with 4 pegs and a rope, between the beds aisles are trampled.
For a raised bed, mark the area in the usual way. Then, standing in the aisle (at least 40 cm wide), dig a groove with a flat cutter and throw the earth onto the garden bed. Level the garden and plant the plants. The aisles can be filled with tops, humus with straw, grass cuttings.
Table 1. How to create a high bed.
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| Choose a well-lit area |
| Determine the width of the bed. It should not exceed 1.2 meters |
| Level the soil and dig a trench 25-50 cm deep.Place the excavated soil between rows (50-60 cm wide) |
| Protect crops from moles by placing a metal mesh at the bottom of the trench |
| On dense soil, sprinkle sand on top of the mesh. For light (peat or sandy) - sawdust, and pour them with potassium permanganate |
| Place drainage (corn and sunflower tops, finely chopped branches, brushwood). Cover with moistened cardboard |
| Fill the rest of the space with organic substrate (tops, straw, fallen leaves, hay, humus, semi-mature compost) |
| Pour water from a watering can on the garden bed, then diluted cow dung |
| Sprinkle the bed with lime (250 g per 1 sq.m.) and add complex mineral fertilization. A mixture of 1 tbsp is also suitable. ash + 0.5 tbsp. superphosphate + 0.25 tbsp. potassium chloride |
| Press down on sprinkled ingredients and cover with dug earth |
The bed should rise 25-30 cm above the ground. To do this, arrange a box or container of slightly buried boards or logs, and fill the bed following the sequence shown above. Get rid of weeds between the beds by covering the ground with sand or sawdust. To warm up in the spring, cover the bed with black film; for cooling in summer, remove the film from the ends of the box.
A high bed warms up faster, you can plant vegetables in it earlier than in a regular bed. Therefore, it is recommended to grow heat-loving plants on it. In the first year, do not plant nitrate-accumulating vegetables (spring and autumn varieties of radish, lettuce, beets, spinach) in it. Celery, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers will do.
In order not to drain the land, alternate planting varieties of vegetables with different nutritional requirements, as well as resting the beds.
WPC prices
How to properly prepare the beds for wintering
You need to start work on loosening the soil by clearing the beds from litter: weeds, fruits, dried tops, bark, etc. Remember to carefully uproot creeping weeds; Pay special attention to wheatgrass and dandelion.
Cleaning of the beds is best done after harvesting, without delaying for a long time - rotting plant remains provide a breeding ground for wintering spores of pathogenic fungi. It is ideal to be in time before the prolonged rains begin (the earth will get deeply wet, and it cannot be loosened), and it is imperative not later than the date when the earth temperature drops to + 4 ° C. It was at this time that earthworms hibernate into the ground, which create a fertile soil layer.
Important: after the first snow, it is not allowed to dig the ground in the beds.
Immediately after you remove the weeds, dig up the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm, turning and breaking up the clods. The sooner this loosening is done, the more weeds will grow on the beds. With the first frost, the weeds will die, and there will be less work for you in the spring.
Be sure to dig up the soil:
- heavy, high density;
- infected with wintering pests;
- heavily overgrown with perennial weeds;
It is better not to dig up the site:
- with a bias;
- flooded;
- eroded.
In addition, digging is more effective in loam than in sandy soil. Clay soil lacks air pores, into which oxygen penetrates, which the roots need to breathe. If there is no air in the soil, mineral fertilizers will be practically useless for the future harvest, no matter how much you apply them.
Pest insects also hibernate in the soil - when you dig, you destroy their passages and winter shelters, and they die from the cold air.
Digging a vegetable garden helps to effectively use biologically active snow moisture. More snow will accumulate on the loosened soil surface, protecting the roots. And when it melts, water will be absorbed into the beds, penetrating deep into the ground.
There are two options for digging a garden:
- Moldless. With this method, earth clods are not broken or turned over in order to preserve the beneficial microflora.
- Dump. The most correct option for digging up the beds in the fall is to extract wintering pests from shelters.
Apply fertilizer and, if necessary, chalk or lime to normalize soil pH. Recommended fertilizers per 1 sq. M:
- 20-25 g of urea;
- 20 g superphosphate;
- 20 g of potassium chloride.
It will not hurt to add 1 bucket of clay per 1 sq. M. To sandy soil, 5 kg of rotten compost per 1 sq. M, humus from fallen leaves 4 kg per 1 sq. M. You can add well-rotted sawdust (1 bucket per 1 square meter), but only if you do not have acidic soil. In clay soil, add 1 bucket of river sand mixed with compost per 1 sq. M.
Mulch the bed with leaf litter, pine needles, sawdust, hay, cut grass (5-10 cm layer). Cover areas where weeds are especially undesirable with newspapers and cardboard.
Superphosphate prices
superphosphate
What fertilizers are required for the soil in autumn
Manure. There are many weed seeds in this organic fertilizer. Therefore, it is best used for fertilizing the beds in the fall. Weeds will sprout quickly, and their shoots will die in the frost. And the manure will be saturated with rain and snow moisture, will begin to rot and mix with the soil. Manure needs 5-6 kg per square meter, humus - 3-4 kg. It must be entered under:
- pumpkin;
- dill;
- melons;
- celery;
- cabbage;
- zucchini.
For perennials like currants and strawberries, manure is applied after the fruits are harvested. Manure will work most effectively in the second year - for a plentiful harvest, pumpkin, greens, cabbage, beets, radishes can be planted on a fertilized site.
Lime. It is used to reduce the acidity of the soil, it is introduced into the soil in the fall so that it does not slow down the absorption of phosphorus by the roots during the active growing season. If you use chalk or dolomite flour to reduce acidity, these substances can be applied both in autumn and spring. But it is advisable to add ash in spring - the necessary substances from it are quickly washed out by melt water.
Peat. It is used to improve the soil - loosens dense, makes sandy more moisture-absorbing. For dense soil, add peat in the fall during digging 5 liters per 1 square meter, and the same amount during digging in the spring.
Mineral fertilizers. It is more rational to feed annual crops in spring, perennial crops - in autumn. It is convenient to use complex feeding.
How to check the acidity of the soil? There are special testers sold in stores, but you can also check for weeds: a large number of creeping buttercup, sorrel, and rosemary grow on acidic soil.
Mineral fertilizers prices
mineral fertilizers
Secrets of preparing beds for different crops
Each horticultural culture is unique in its properties, therefore, the rules for caring for them have their own nuances.
Spread over the beds (or pour into holes) on 1 square meter of soil:
- 1 tsp potassium sulfate;
- 1 tbsp superphosphate;
- 1 glass of wood ash.
If these fertilizers are not available, 2 tablespoons of nitrophosphate and a glass of ash are enough. The dose is suitable for early yielding varieties. For medium and late, double it.
Important: fresh manure is contraindicated for potatoes - it makes it watery and tasteless, becomes infected with scab and fungus. Use only humus. Dig the beds to the depth of a bayonet, remove weed roots and pest larvae.
The best varieties of potatoes - Bellarosa, Zarnitsa, Latona, Pobeda, Slavyanka, Reserve.
White cabbage
When digging, add to 1 square meter of cabbage bed:
- 30-35 g superphosphate;
- 40-50 g of potassium sulfate.
Fertilizers can be mixed, mixed with potassium permanganate and applied to the holes. If the soil is fertile, reduce the dose by 2-3 times. Cabbage quickly accumulates nitrogen, so you need to be careful with such fertilizers.
Under digging to the depth of the bayonet, add rotted manure or compost per 1 square meter:
- for early varieties 1/3 bucket;
- for medium grades 1/2 bucket;
- for late varieties 1 bucket.
Once every 2-3 years, if the soil is acidic, add 300 grams of fluff lime or dolomite flour.
The best varieties of cabbage - Dumas, Glory, Gift, Dawn, Wintering 1474, Marathon, Monarch, Kolobok, Geneva.
Dumas cabbage prices
dumas cabbage
When digging in autumn, add to 1 square meter of beet beds:
- 12-14 g of potassium chloride;
- 22-25 g of superphosphate and ammonium nitrate;
- 1/2 bucket of humus or compost.
Fresh manure is contraindicated in cabbage - the crop will be high in nitrates.
The best varieties of beets - Bordeaux, Incomparable, Vital, Tenderness, Winter, Forono, Crimson, Mulatto, Red ball, Kuban, Borshch.
Pumpkin and squash
When digging in autumn, add to 1 square meter of beds:
- 250 g of ash;
- 10-15 g superphosphate;
- 15 g of potassium sulfate.
Non-capricious crops "love" rotted manure - 3-4 kg per 1 square meter of garden. Pumpkins and zucchini grow well only on neutral soils - it is imperative to normalize the acidity with lime or chalk. Add 1/2 bucket of humus or compost and 1 bucket of river sand to clay soils. In sandy ones - 1 bucket of clay and 1/2 bucket of humus.
The best pumpkin varieties - Smile, Freckle, Russian woman, Healing, Sweet pie, Gribovskaya winter, Candied fruit, Premiere, Orange bush.
The best varieties of zucchini - Aeronaut, Bely, Tsukesha, Gribovsky, Lagenaria, Black handsome, Medusa, Iskander, Waterfall, Zolotinka, Spaghetti.
When preparing the land for tomatoes in the fall, add to 1 square meter of beds:
- 4-5 kg \u200b\u200bof humus;
- 2 tbsp phosphorus fertilizers;
- 2 tbsp potash fertilizers.
Fertilizers can be simply scattered over the surface.
Tomatoes require neutral or slightly acidic soil. Sandstone or light loam requires 250 g of lime per 1 square meter, for medium or heavy loam - 350 g.
The best varieties of tomatoes - Riddle, Anastasia, Raspberry Giant, Marisha, Stolypin, Oxheart, Honey Savior, Pharaoh, Monomakh's Hat.
Tomato prices Bull heart
tomato Bovine heart
When preparing the land for cucumbers in the fall, add for 1 square meter:
- 5-6 kg of fresh manure;
- 4-5 kg \u200b\u200bof plant organic matter;
- 200 g of wood ash.
It is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers in spring. If the soil is clayey, add 1 bucket of river sand per 1 square meter. Sandy loam or loamy soil with weak acidity is suitable for cucumbers. Be sure to dig the beds to the depth of the shovel bayonet.
The best varieties cucumbers - April, Masha, Erofey, Competitor, Rodnichok, Firm's Secret, Moscow evenings.
When preparing the land for radishes in the fall, apply for 1 square meter:
- 40-60 g superphosphate;
- 15 g of potassium chloride.
The soil should be neutral - in acidic soils, radishes are sick. When digging in beds, add 2 buckets of compost per square meter to the ground. Fresh manure is strictly prohibited - only well dried!
The best varieties of radish- varieties resistant to shooting: Ilka, Duro, Rampous, French breakfast, Zlata and Mercado.
Autumn preparation of the soil for planting is very important - it is she who lays the "foundation" of the future harvest. Do not neglect the opportunity to feed the soil, improve its structure and properties and facilitate spring sowing work for yourself. Simple recommendations will help you quickly cope with the pre-winter care of the beds.
Video - we are preparing the beds in the fall
Autumn is just approaching and the harvest is not yet fully harvested. There is still a little time left and the beds will remain completely empty. So it's time to prepare the site for the upcoming season. This is done in order to prepare the soil, provide it with the necessary elements for better growing crops in the next year and, accordingly, so that the harvest is rich and healthy. But what kind of procedures and activities need to be carried out, we will tell you in this article.
Preparing the beds in the fallThe soil loses its unique properties every year, allowing it to grow strong vegetation and harvest at the end of the season. Therefore, she needs our help. Regular application of fertilizers with substances such as potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus helps to make up for the lack of these elements. We do not see this deficit, but we will be able to understand what it is, only by the state of the plants.
Autumn is the optimal period to enrich the depleted soil with various dressings and fertilizers, which will be absorbed and assimilated during the cold period. And when you start planting and sowing garden crops in the spring, they will be able to get good nutrition, since during the winter the fertilizers were processed by the soil into the form necessary for vegetation.
For organic matter to take the form necessary for perception by vegetation, it takes some time. That is precisely why, in order not to wait for spring and when everything is processed and it is necessary to bring the nutrient medium into the ground in autumn. During a long cold period, the elements will decompose into components and will be ready to feed crops and seedlings for planting.
But fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly. It is necessary to take into account a number of nuances, namely the condition of the soil, the quality of the soil. And also plan future plantings in advance, because the same complementary food is not suitable for all plants, so take note of this and start from all of the above in order to choose the right nutrient medium.
Fertilizers cannot be applied thoughtlessly Now let's go directly to the consideration of the proposed topic in more detail, consider each nuance.
Why prepare the soil in advance?
This question is often asked by gardeners, because there is spring and then, before planting vegetables, you can prepare the land. But this is not quite the correct line of thinking. Because, as we said, fertilizer takes time for crops to be able to consume it to grow. And in the spring, there is already a lot of trouble: prepare seeds, grow seedlings, prepare holes for planting and plan the days of planting seedlings in the ground. Agree, this is a very time-consuming process, and you may simply not have time to do everything.
Preparing the soil in advance This is why the autumn preparatory work is very important. Having spent a little more effort in the outgoing year, you will be able to pay more attention directly to planting work, because the site will be completely ready to grow a new crop. So do not be lazy, and you can slowly plan your actions with the arrival of spring.
How to properly prioritize preparation
Preparation should begin with clearing the area from the remains of tops, weeds and other vegetation. If they are healthy, put them in a compost pit for drying out, then you can use this to improve the quality of the soil. If necessary, you can add chalk or hydrated lime to such fertilizers to normalize the acidity of the soil. If they show signs of disease, it is better to burn them outside the territory.
Preparation should begin with clearing the area from the remains of tops Pay special attention to weeds. They need to be removed with special care: root systems, creeping stems. The garden should be completely rid of them so as not to waste time on this in the spring, when they grow faster than vegetables on the lured soil.
Now that you have cleared the entire area of \u200b\u200bweeds and their debris. It is necessary to start enriching the soil with nitrogen fertilizers, potash and phosphorus - they are suitable for all plants. Since nothing will grow on the beds, urea can also be added in winter, it is not difficult to calculate: 20-25 g per 1 m 2; superphosphate complementary foods in a ratio of 18-20 g per 1 m 2; potassium chloride in a proportion of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. Do not be afraid to add chlorine, by the time of spring it will no longer be in the soil. In addition, it is good to put a layer of manure, already rotted, in a proportion of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2 or deciduous humus of 3-4 kg per 1 m 2. Also, furnace ash, wood ash or soot will be useful in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m 2.
To lighten heavy soil or clay in your garden, add 1 bucket of river sand for each square meter, after mixing it with compost. This will make the soil looser and its fertile qualities will hang.
And vice versa, if you have sandy soil in which neither water nor nutrients linger, you need to mix it with clay, also in a bucket per square meter, add compost in an amount of 5-6 kg per 1 m 2, humus from leaves 3-4 kg per 1 m 2, as well as sawdust 1 bucket per 1 m 2. Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil, so make sure that when laying them, they are soaked in water and a little misty.
Be careful with sawdust, as they can oxidize the soil Land with an acidity index below 6 units must be enriched with chalk or hydrated lime. When the acid-base balance is less than 4.5, it is necessary to use limestone in an amount of 200-250 g per 1 m 2. With indicators in the range of 4.6-5.5, add chalk in a ratio of 250-300 g per 1 m 2.
All the substances described are introduced in the fall at the time of digging the garden. First, you distribute it over the top layer of turf, then dig up the soil onto a full bayonet of a shovel, mixing all the necessary ingredients with the ground.
You need to dig up the beds correctly
There are two main ways to dig up garden beds: moldboard and moldboard.
You need to dig up the beds correctly Let us first consider the dump-free method, it consists in the fact that the earth layer does not break and turn over. Thus, there is a complete preservation of the beneficial microflora of the soil of the lower and upper layers. The formed clods of soil should also not be broken.
The dumping method is completely opposite in action: the clods must be turned over and crushed. This method is most often used in autumn soil preparation. This is the only way we can place fertilizers in the soil, while distributing them evenly. But harmful insects and dangerous microbes who decide to spend the winter in the ground will literally be dragged out. It is not recommended to break up lumps of soil that are on the surface itself, because deep freezing will occur. But if you intend to prepare completely and clearly delineate the beds, chop up all the lumps. Then it is necessary to level the soil over the entire surface, this can be achieved by layering the soil during digging, making them higher than the rest of the soil by a few centimeters. Thus, the sun's rays in the spring will warm such beds faster than other land on the territory.
We prepare the beds for each vegetable separately
We examined the general features of how to prepare for planting plants in the winter: feeding, coating, dumping, layering of soil on plots with an increase in their level. But these are only general recommendations. But our task is not so much to find out the basic recommendations, it is to competently cultivate the site for each individual type of vegetable crops. And all this is also carried out after the harvest, namely in the autumn period.
Beet planting beds
For sowing a vegetable, you need to choose a well-lit place, with drained and light soil. Then you can safely expect a good root crop. Optimally, plots should be prepared on rocks or loam, with a neutral acid-base balance. Other types of soil are poorly suited to growing this crop, even with normal nutrients. It is not necessary to plant in places infused with water. And it is worth abandoning planting in the soil of high acidity.
Beet planting beds It is better to plant a vegetable in a vacant place from cucumbers, zucchini, early varieties of potatoes. And also good predecessors are varieties of early sweet peppers, eggplants and tomatoes. And it is categorically impossible to sow table beets in place of spinach, carrots, rapeseed, Cabbage and Swiss chard.
Be sure to lay a layer of compost during the autumn preparatory work or deciduous humus at the rate of ½ bucket per 1 m 2 of one plot. As a fertilizer with minerals, potassium chloride in a ratio of 12-14 g per 1 m 2 and ammonium nitrate with superphosphate in a ratio of 22-25 g per 1 m 2 will be good.
Please note that in no case should fresh manure be introduced into the soil during preparation, as you risk growing a crop with a high nitrate content in the coming year.
Prepares a plot for squash and pumpkin
These vegetables are not picky at all and treat well almost all fertilizers that we apply to the soil. They will also like almost completely rotted manure, at the rate of 3-4 kg per square meter of plot, but not more. It is laid for digging.
Prepares a plot for squash and pumpkin The soil must have a neutral acid-base balance. If your kidney has a high acid content, do chalking or add limestone.
It is optimal to plant cultivated plants in places from under potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops in general and after legumes. But do not populate the area left over from cucumbers, squash and zucchini.
Pay attention to the type of soil, with a high clay content, you need to add ½ bucket of humus and 1 bucket of river sand per 1 square meter and dig everything up well. The same measures are necessary for general preparation in the autumn for pumpkins and zucchini. Fertilizers with a mineral base are also necessary: \u200b\u200bsuperphosphate 10-15 g, ash 250 g and potassium phosphate 15 g - this will be enough.
Sandy lands can also be equipped for growing squash and pumpkins, for this add a bucket of clay and ½ a bucket of deciduous humus per 1 m 2 of the garden.
Preparing a place for planting herbs
Dill and other greens also cannot be planted anywhere in order to get a good harvest. They will grow successfully in a place free of cabbage, tomatoes and onions. But don't plant herbs in the carrot, parsnip, and celery area.
Place for planting herbs Good illumination of the sowing area is also important, it will also be well warmed up. In autumn, cover the place planned for greenery with coniferous branches so that the snow lies there longer, so the land will be more fertile. Check the PH balance of the area. After all, vitamin bushes grow poorly on high acidity. Add lime or chalk to normalize acidity levels.
These plants do not require any special preparation. Dig the garden bed no deeper than 23 cm, be sure to add 2-3 kg of rotted manure per 1 m 2, 25-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 8-10 g of potassium sulfate, 10-12 g of superphosphate for the same 1 m 2. With the arrival of spring, you just need to loosen the soil well and organize the holes for sowing. It is also necessary to thoroughly spill the plots with water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m 2 and compact the soil a little so that the seeds do not "drown". The sowing holes should be 2 cm deep.
Preparing the ground for tomatoes
Tomatoes should be planted in the ground instead of table beets, cucumbers, onions, legumes, carrots, lettuce, herbs, corn and courgettes. Late-ripening cabbage, potatoes, eggplant and bell peppers are considered bad predecessors.
Preparing the ground for tomatoes After the chosen place, you should proceed to the selection of the type of soil. The soil must be fertile. Excessively acidic soil should be fed with lime in a proportion of 150-200 g per 1 m 2, but this will not work with any acidity. If the soil consists of sandstone or loam, then you will need to add 250 g of limestone per 1 m 2 for digging, with medium or heavy loam, you will need to add 350 g, also under a shovel.
Take your time with fertilizing the site. Prepare superphosphates, tomatoes like it, and just spread it all over the garden without digging over the top layer.
Since tomato bushes are tall, you should not make a bed for them with an increase in the level. Limit yourself to 23 cm wide and 100 cm long, you don't need to do more in volume.
Plots for planting cucumbers
And of course, we select a plot for this vegetable crop. There are few places where you can find a vegetable garden where cucumbers do not grow. It is better to plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, legumes, spinach, onions, early varieties of cabbage, as well as cauliflower, carrots and greens. And you should beware of the place after cucumbers, melons, watermelons, pumpkins and squash.
Plots for planting cucumbers Try to prepare the soil and make it light in the fall. For cucumber seedlings, loamy or sandy loam soil is most suitable. Clayy and heavy soils require the addition of sand: 1 bucket per 1 m 2 for a shovel. The soil can be slightly acidic, cucumbers feel calm there, so if there is only such a piece of land left, do not worry.
And please note that it is also necessary to add 5-6 kg of dumped manure, and then dig it up with a full shovel.
We lay complementary foods for warm beds
Also, autumn is very suitable for the construction of insulated beds. To do this, you need boards to mount a box or box, as a rule, they are made 1 m * 2 m.In the bottom layer we lay large branches, bark, thick stems of plants, for example, corn, it can also be cuts of logs and pieces of hemp or boards. Further, a layer of sand, sawdust, chains, peelings of vegetables and plant residues, even a layer of fallen leaves, humus is poured and the ash is distributed. When laying these layers, take into account the fact that soil, mixed with compost, up to 30 cm in height, must still fit on top, in which the plants will be planted.
Complementary food for warm beds Do I need mulching
If you have a question about the need to mulch the beds that you prepared so diligently, then yes, of course this event needs to be held. Created on the basis of pure organic substances, it in no way can harm or affect the active vital activity of all beneficial bacteria in the plots you have created. In early spring, you just need to remove the used mulch from the surface. The plot is now ready to receive new plants, and the fertile land will help grow them.
They begin to prepare for the new garden season ahead of time. Even in the fall, they carefully dig up the ground, supply it with the necessary fertilizers and get rid of garbage. At the end of winter, you need to draw up a detailed plan for preparatory and sowing work, which will allow you to plan future plantings and achieve effective use of time with the onset of spring.
When do they start preparing the beds?
Usually, all excavation work in the season begins in April. It is impossible to give a more exact date, since much depends on the established weather and on the climatic characteristics of your region. Often at this time there is still snow, and the temperature is kept below zero. Do not rush into the furrow as soon as the snow has melted. At this stage, the ground is still very hard, filled with moisture and cold. You need to wait for the sun to dry and warm the soil, otherwise your exit to the garden will be like kneading mud. The only thing you can do while the earth is recovering from a long winter period is to free shrubs and plants from winter protection.
To find out that the soil is ready, take a little in your hands and crumble it. It should disintegrate into small lumps, and not lie in a heavy massive lump. Do not wait and dry out the earth. If early sowing of crops is planned, then soil preparation begins earlier - when there is still snow remnants. In this case, the beds must be sprinkled with peat or ash, which will accelerate the heating of the earth and allow planting crops much earlier.
Preparation stages
Spring preparation and its stages, first of all, depend on the work done in the fall. The better you work in October, the easier it will be for the new season to start. Therefore, it is recommended to start preparing the beds for spring immediately after the end of the previous season.
Digging or loosening
What exactly and in what sequence to perform depends on the characteristics of the soil and how the site was treated in the fall. If at the end of the previous season the land was not dug up, then it will have to be done in the spring - many gardeners do just that, while fertilizing the soil with nitrogen-containing fertilizers - they will allow the remains of weeds and other organic matter to decompose. In the spring, you do not need to dig deep (no more than 15 cm) - more thorough plowing should be left for the fall. Technique is much more important - try to ensure that the formation is turned around so that the lower part is on the surface.
After the spring digging, the earth should stand a little and be compacted - you cannot plant vegetables and other plantings right away. As a rule, 3-5 days are enough, after which you can start planting work. If the earth was dug up in the fall, then it is loosened. In this case, it is necessary to remove the roots of weeds as much as possible, otherwise they will quickly fill the space and absorb from the soil the main nutrients that are so necessary for cultivated plants.
To loosen the soil, a rotary cultivator or a star roller is used, which easily break up blocks of earth and make the soil evenly crumbly. It is enough to “comb” the light soil with an ordinary rake.
What to do with weeds
All plant waste that is collected from the beds in the spring is best placed in a composting bin. This includes last year's leaves and a variety of rhizomes, sprouts and dandelion flowers. You can add manure to the compost pit, but in this case you will have to wait for it to grind and only then use the resulting humus. Cabbage stumps and tomato roots are not placed in compost - all this can be a carrier of diseases. To make the compost mature as soon as possible, do not forget to stir it up with a pitchfork on sunny days to saturate the cavities with oxygen.
Soil nutrition
How and how to fertilize the soil in spring is a matter of dispute for many gardeners. Some prefer organic fertilizers, others choose mineral fertilizers, and still others do with the correct crop rotation. To understand what exactly is needed, evaluate the characteristics of the soil - the level of acidity and moisture supply. Most often used:
- compost - retains moisture well, saturating the soil with nutrients;
- sand - improves the drainage qualities of clay soil, it is better to use a building variety;
- manure - introduced during digging, helps to retain moisture and provides drainage, due to the high nitrogen content it reduces the number of weeds;
- calcium-containing materials - reduce the acidity of the soil, are scattered over the surface before the formation of beds;
- peat moss - perfectly retains moisture, is used in sandy soil;
- sawdust is an excellent drainage material that eliminates excess water.
When using fertilizers, it is important to observe the measure - their excess is as detrimental to plants as a lack. Follow the fertilization recommendations based on the type of soil and crops you plan to grow.
Disengagement
One of the most time-consuming procedures that require a lot of experience and skills from gardeners. Many people prefer to dig only the ridge itself, where the culture will be planted. At the same time, the distance between the ridges remains intact in the full power of the weeds. On the one hand, there is less work: there is no need to open and plow the compacted soil (if the path has always been in this place). But on the other hand, it is this path that becomes the source of the spread of weeds. The grass grows shamelessly into carefully cleaned beds, forcing you to weed again and again. Sawdust or mown grass helps to cope with this - they are periodically poured into the aisles, which does not allow weeds to appear.
If the territory allows, equip narrow beds - 50 cm wide and with a borderline of 90-100 cm.With this approach, the plants receive maximum solar energy, nutrients and moisture, due to which they grow rapidly without much effort on the part of the person. In cold regions, it is advisable to form high beds. Their borders are processed with any suitable material: logs, slate, boards, etc. The width of such a bed is 1-1.2 meters, and the height is 50 cm.
Preparation of beds for different crops
- For a rich harvest carrots it is recommended to mix seeds with a little sand. Onions serve as a good neighbor for an orange vegetable - a little sand is also mixed in with it, which, by the way, facilitates the harvest cathedral.
- Cucumbers grow well if in the fall or early spring a solid layer of compost is introduced into the soil (not fresh, but prepared in advance). To get rid of various organisms in the soil, it is recommended to steam the soil with boiling water or pour it with a pinkish manganese solution shortly before planting.
- For garlic use either compost or double superphosphate and other mineral fertilizers, depending on the type of soil. Since it is a sun-loving plant, it is recommended to plant it in tall, narrow beds. Some gardeners prepare the ground for planting garlic using a mixture of peas, oats, and white mustard.
- For tomato the ground must be closed from fumes - it is slightly dried out with a rake, due to which its warming up is accelerated. After some time, weeds appear on the surface - it is important to remove them completely at this stage. Tomatoes love organic (rotted) and mineral fertilizers.
- A bountiful harvest potatoes You can get it if you dig the ground well in the fall, and in the spring repeat the procedure, but to a shallower depth. Along the way, you need to apply nitrogen fertilizers. After plowing, the bed is harrowed. In too wet soil, it is necessary to organize drainage channels and sand the soil.
- For strawberry process the ground with a solution of copper sulfate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Poultry manure or compost is used as fertilizer. It is advisable to sprinkle the beds with ash or chopped straw (sawdust). Nitrogen fertilizers will not be superfluous either.
- Noble harvest beets You can get it if you generously season the soil with humus or compost - 2-2.5 kg are applied per 1 m 2. A little ammonium nitrate (17-19 g), superphosphate and potassium chloride will not hurt.
Preparation of beds in greenhouses
Usually, the same crops are planted in greenhouses from year to year, which requires gardeners to pay special attention to the soil in the greenhouse. It is important to properly prepare the soil so that the next harvest is plentiful enough. This requires:
- Replace the top layer of soil - remove 10-20 cm and add a purchased or self-prepared mixture (one part of the sod land accounts for one part of river sand, three humus and five peat).
- Sow green manure between rows.
- Use EM preparations designed to make the harvest environmentally friendly and safe.
Greenhouses are protected from snow in winter, so the soil inside can be dry in spring. To prevent this, throw snow in late spring. When it melts, the soil will be soaked in moisture and prepared to receive seeds.
Preparation of beds using EM technology + video
Recently, more and more people are talking about treating beds using EM technology. It is about mixing crops of beneficial organisms that create an optimal microflora in the soil, creating the best conditions for enhanced plant growth. The essence of the technique consists in processing the beds with special solutions that saturate the soil with the necessary elements and significantly increase the fruit setting.
To prepare the land using this technology, it is necessary as soon as the soil "ripens":
- Treat it with a Fokin flat cutter or a hoe.
- Pour with EM solution at a rate of 1: 100. For each square meter, there are approximately 1.5-2 liters of such a solution.
- Sow at will.
- Plant the seedlings directly into green manure crops, which are then mown and used as mulch in other areas.
After such preparation, seeds and seedlings are planted only after 2-2.5 weeks. Such preparation has a particularly beneficial effect on the yield of root crops and melons: the number of rotten fruits affected by pathogenic microflora decreases, the natural fertility of the soil is restored, and humus accumulates.