Drainage of a clay area. Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils

Water is the source of life and comfort. But sometimes it turns into a natural disaster with catastrophic consequences. That is why when arranging a land plot for building a house, you need to take care of a reliable drainage system. After all, flooding by ground and melt water is a real tragedy for any home owner. And rain and snow can contribute to the waterlogging of the land and thereby create a lot of problems for the owners of private housing related to their safety and comfort.

Areas with a clay structure are especially affected by excess moisture. And the only salvation for them is the installation of a full-fledged drainage system, which fortunately can be easily done with your own hands.

When starting to create a drainage system with your own hands, you do not need to rush to buy materials and dig trenches. Initially, you need to determine the type of soil and make hydrodynamic calculations. It is the composition of the soil that will determine the future design of the drainage system. For example, everyone knows that building a house on black earth or sandy soil is much easier, since this type of soil very quickly absorbs and removes moisture. But the owners of areas with clay soil will have to make a lot of effort to drain it. Clay can retain moisture for a very long time, and this property is of great danger to both all buildings located in this area and the plants growing around.

Wet clay can cause not only discomfort to the inhabitants of this site, but also cause significant damage to all structures and outbuildings. Wet clayey soil is especially dangerous in winter. Freezing to the very depths, it can destroy the foundation of a house, destroy garden trees and even disrupt the water supply system. And then puddles, sticky mud and slush will seem like a minor nuisance compared to more serious problems.

Clay soil and plants on the site will be affected. During prolonged rains, such soil immediately turns into a swamp. And after drying, it becomes hard and does not lend itself to loosening. A solid crust forms on its surface, which completely disrupts air exchange in the soil. As a result, all trees, flowers and other plants, not receiving enough oxygen, stop growing and begin to die.

How to find out the type of soil yourself

As a rule, not all land owners are soil scientists. And when starting building a house with your own hands, you can hardly quickly find the right specialist, especially in a remote area. Also, the cost of such a service is not always adequate. You can check the type of soil yourself, moreover, this procedure does not require special knowledge and complex devices. You just need to dig a hole with your own hands half a meter deep and pour water into it. If the soil absorbs moisture well, then the water should go away in a day. And if the pit is not empty even in two days, then this means that the soil here is clayey. Therefore, it is imperative to drain this area.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site

In order to properly drain a site on clay soils, you must first determine the future type of drainage system. The design of such a system will depend on the following factors:

the size of the area to be drained;
relief features: the presence of lowlands and hills;
average monthly precipitation in a given area;
the proximity of a natural reservoir;
the amount of ground and melt water;
financial opportunities.

Depending on which factor will prevail and the optimal drainage system is selected. It can be done in two ways: deep and superficial.

Which drainage method is best for clay soils

If the site is inclined, and there is practically no groundwater on it, then you can create surface drainage. It is of two types: linear and point. In the first case, shallow trenches are created, through which in the future water will flow into the collection trays. They, in turn, are inclined towards the main water intake or to the storm sewer well. For safety and aesthetics, this whole structure is covered with special gratings. The function of point dehumidification is performed by a system consisting of downpipes, from where the water flows into water collectors and storm water inlets connected to a common drainage system.

The second method is more complicated and costly, but you can also do it yourself. Trenches up to 1 meter deep and up to 0.5 meters wide are being dug on the site. This system works much more efficiently than the surface drainage system. Dug trenches surround the entire site and the house around the entire perimeter. Geotextiles are laid at the bottom of such ditches, and perforated drainage pipes are installed on top of it, which are then covered with rubble.

The created structure is closed with an overlapping protruding geotextile, the ends of which are firmly and securely fixed. At the end, all this is covered with earth and leveled.

Combined drainage on clay soil

Given the complex structure of clay soils, experts recommend using two drainage methods simultaneously: deep and surface. Such a system will work much better, since surface drainage will quickly remove melt water and atmospheric precipitation from the site, thereby preventing them from penetrating the ground. Well, the deep system will fight with groundwater, directing it through pipes to a designated place.

Deep drainage of an area on clay soils cannot be created in a place where a car will drive and park. The soil covering the trench is quickly compacted. This fact will lead to deformation of the drainage pipes, making them completely useless.

Drainage system design phase

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils should begin with design. But if the area of \u200b\u200bthe territory is not very large, then it is quite possible to do without complex technical calculations. The process of creating a drainage scheme consists of several stages:

first, it is necessary to make a plan of the site on an acceptable scale, where all outbuildings, roads and trees should be marked;
on the plan, it is necessary to mark all the highest and lowest points of the relief;
now it is possible to draw on the scheme the lines along which the future drainage trenches will go;
it is imperative to highlight the main drainage system, which originates at the highest point and ends at the lowest;
it is also necessary to design all additional branches coming from the main water conduit;

When drawing up a project, it is imperative to take into account important technical points. So, for example, on clay soil, the distance between drainage trenches should not be less than or more than 10 meters. When drawing up the plan, it is also necessary to take into account that the diameter of the main water conduit will be the largest, and the diameter of the additional main pipes will be almost two times smaller.

When drawing up a project, it is very important to immediately determine where excess water will be discharged? There are several ways to solve this problem. It could also be a regular roadside ditch leading to a nearby body of water. You can also make a decorative lake or swamp on a site in the style of landscape design. It can also be an ordinary underground water intake, but here you cannot do without an electric pump.

A well-designed and high-quality do-it-yourself drainage system will last a long time without additional repairs and improvements. But most importantly, it will provide optimal drainage of clay soil and relieve the owner of the house from unnecessary trouble, expenses and worries.

If you are faced with the problem of a high level of humidity on the land, then it is possible that you need to drain it, which you can deal with yourself.

This should not be neglected, because such a phenomenon can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Such circumstances arise if the site is located in a lowland or at a high level of groundwater abutment.

What is drainage and what are its functions

There is a certain system that combines trenches and pipes, which are located along the perimeter of a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe land. It is called drainage. Drainage of the soil by installing system elements will solve many problems associated with water disposal. For example:

your plants will not sink in mud, and the harvest will be much better;
paths and paths will finally cease to be associated with swamps.

In short, you will have the opportunity to enjoy your stay outside the city.

Remember, the correct drainage device is a guarantee of the safety of the foundations of summer cottages, which is ensured by the safety of building materials. When is such a system really necessary? Then, when there is soil leaching, swelling or waterlogging, as well as from time to time basements and cellars are heated.

Types of drainage systems and their features

In order to properly organize the removal of excess moisture from the land, you need to clearly understand what is the difference between its types, and what features each of them has.

So, drainage can be surface type or deep. You can cope with the first option on your own, because the work is relatively easy. As for the deep type of construction, you need to think about it at the stage of building a house.

Surface drainage of a site can be of one of two types:

linear - special trays are laid directly on the surface, which are slightly inclined towards the water intake or the main storm sewer well. For safety reasons, they are covered with decorative grilles. Sand traps are often installed in garden areas, making them even more efficient. Thus, stones, debris and sand do not enter the wastewater, respectively, the system is not so heavily clogged. The main condition for the complete drainage of excess water from the soil is the deep occurrence of groundwater;

point - the drainage function in this case is performed by a system of water collectors or storm water inlets. Pipes are laid underground, through which water flows into the general drainage, and then into the water intake. Such devices are installed under the drainpipes on the street, or if it is a land plot, then at its lowest level.

Deep drainage regulates the water balance through perforated pipes. They are laid directly under the ground and absorb excess moisture.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils

I would like to reiterate that the surface water drainage system allows you to get rid of its excess, which flows from the roofs, accumulates near paths and terraces. Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils , you need to decide on its type (point or linear). The difference is that in the first case, water is diverted from specific areas of a small territory, and the second is advisable if it is necessary to prevent the washing off of the fertile soil layer.

So, the arrangement of surface type drainage begins with drawing up a diagram, which takes into account the places of stagnation of water. The system consists of a main trench and auxiliary ditches where liquid from puddles will be discharged. The main trenches are used to drain the drain pipes. By the way, the hole must be dug at a certain slope, which will ensure the gravity direction of the water towards the water intake. Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils implies ensuring a slope of 0.002.

After dug trenches 0.5 m wide and approximately 0.7 m deep, the walls should be formed at a 30 degree angle. The inlet must be located below the level of the entire system. Thus, it will be possible to ensure the interception and removal of excess moisture, and it will also reduce the level of groundwater. Considering that the do-it-yourself drainage device at the site in this way is not entirely aesthetically pleasing, now special trays are provided that fit into trenches, after which they are covered with a lattice-type lid.

What should happen

Installation of a deep site drainage system

Depth of pipes in the ground

For the arrangement, it is necessary to use perforated pipes and roll materials. According to the standard scheme, water must first enter the collecting drains, and then into the main ones. And then into the well, and only after that it is discharged into the water intake. Their role can be played by ditches along roads, rivers, streams, ravines or storm sewers. It is imperative to equip inspection holes.

So that the work on the installation of the water drainage system is not done in vain, it is necessary to correctly calculate the depth of the pipes, which is very difficult to do without the help of surveyors or hydrogeologists. These specialists will take all the necessary measurements to determine where the groundwater is.

Drainage scheme of a site with a deep system

In order for the drainage of the site with your own hands to perform all its functions, it is important to use pipes specially designed for this. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that a network of holes 1.5-5 mm in diameter is located on the surface. If earlier pipes made of ceramics or a mixture of asbestos and cement were used for these purposes, now there are polymer pipes designed specifically for hydro-reclamation, their diameter ranges from 50-200 mm. Some models are even equipped with a filter shell.

Interested in how to properly drain the site? It all starts with digging trenches 40 cm wide, the depth depends on where the groundwater flows.

Then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured into the finished channels, which acts as a cushion, on top of which the necessary pipes are laid, they must also be covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

The trench should be filled to half its height, the free space is filled with loam, the final stage of installation is the embankment of the upper, fertile layer of earth.

In the deep system, as well as in the surface, wells must be designed. They are designed to control the drainage process and to clean clogged circular hollow objects. For this, reinforced concrete rings or piece waterproof products can be used, to some extent it depends on the installation depth of the system.

Errors that should not be made when installing a cleaning system at a summer cottage

The most common mistake that is made when trying to design a site drainage with your own hands is neglecting the design stage. The fact is that, first of all, it is necessary to understand in detail the current situation, namely: to analyze the land plot and determine the nature of groundwater. Without taking into account some details, you can come to the fact that they will flow into the basement of your house, negatively affecting the foundation.

Nature does not always arrange everything the way we would like. Sometimes these can be significant problems, one of which is flooding of the land on the personal plot after melting snow, heavy rainfall, or it may be a geological feature of the area. There can be only one solution here - do-it-yourself drainage of the site, taking into account clay soils.

This is a laborious matter, but skillfully made calculations of such a system, taking into account all the features, will make it as efficient as possible and at minimum cost.

First you need to determine the type of soil on the site: if its insight is high, then drainage may not be required. Everything is different with clay soil. She almost does not let moisture through, and therefore dries for a very long time. The discomfort is obvious - the site is like a swamp: it is impossible to walk, there is dirt everywhere, and there is nothing to think about gardening.

There are two types of drainage according to the device method: surface and in-depth.

How to drain a clay area

1. Surface drainage

In this case, you will need to make shallow trenches, after which you will need to install special trays in them and cover them with a net. At first glance, everything is simple. But here you need to know some of the nuances of design. For a small area, you can do without serious calculations: just imagine the system in general terms. However, for large land, you will need a scaled plot of the site, with the designation of all buildings and details.

We use a natural slope (possibly using a level) and begin to put a plan of the future system on the paper:

The main drainage system is the main canal. Its direction is across the entire area from the highest mark down to the collection point. On a flat area, this direction is chosen arbitrarily.

Then we design additional drains and bring them all to the main canal (the drawing resembles a herringbone). The distance between each drain is about 10 m.

It is possible to make a combined system with the arrangement of points of a rapid intermediate catchment area at the ends of each "branch" and at the beginning of the main canal.

It will be more difficult to decide where the water will eventually go. As an example, this could be:

a ditch on the side of the adjacent road;
underground water intake well with a pump;
artificial decorative swamp on the site;
water reservoir for household needs.

The drainage device on the site will also be useful in the further maintenance of the dacha economy: it is very good to use settled water for watering plants in dry periods.

2. Recessed drainage

Here you need to dig trenches with a depth of 1-1.3 m and a width of up to 0.4 m. For the arrangement, you will need the following materials:

special pipes (drains) and trays;
geotextile;
crushed stone;
connecting elements.

And the tool:

shovels (bayonet, shovel);
wheelbarrows for soil removal and crushed stone filling;
level for determining the level;
saw for cutting pipes.

The buried drainage pattern is the same as for the surface one. The only difference is that the drainage channels are buried and the site is made even.

After the ditches are filled with rubble, geotextile, trays and pipes are laid, there is no need to rush to fill the entire structure with earth. Drainage needs to be tested. You need to wait for a shower or do it artificially with a pump, hose and sufficient water pressure. If the flows pass the entire system from start to finish correctly, then the test can be considered passed. If water stagnation occurs in some places, then the system needs to be completed with additional channels.

Additional ditches adjacent to the main canal should be made in parallel at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The denser the soil, the smaller the interval. From the lower end of the main canal, a trench is dug perpendicularly to drain water to other additional points.

A slope in a recessed system is made at least 1 cm deep for 1 m in length. Perhaps more, it will depend on the totality of additional stacks: the more there are, the greater the slope angle is needed for the lower channel so that the drainage is more intense. More precisely, the slope can be controlled using the building level.

Features of the clay area

Clay soils are heavy, dry out slowly, and are rather difficult to process. There is not enough air in them. They are colder than other soils, the growth of plants on them is difficult. After precipitation, a crust forms. On too heavy soil, the roots of plants cannot penetrate deeply. But not everything is so sad, there is also a positive side: such soils are much richer than sandy ones.

All the features of drainage on such soils are interpreted, first of all, by the rational use of water. In order to successfully engage in crop production on a site located on loamy soils, some additions are needed.

Before arranging drainage, the soil must be loosened and crushed stone, chipped brick, sand or fine gravel must be added to it. Lay the top layer with black soil. After sanding, the soil becomes suitable for processing. Now there will be no excess moisture at the level of plant roots. And the water that has reached deep into the impenetrable clay will go into the drainage channels.

An excess of water in a clay area occurs not only during spring floods, but also becomes relevant during summer thunderstorms. Even with a little rain, puddles form on the clay soil. Therefore, making drainage at the summer cottage, you need to prepare in advance the storm sewer with voluminous wells and collectors so that water does not accumulate, but passes freely even with a strong flow.

Which type of drainage is best

Given the complexity of the arrangement of deep drainage, it is cheaper to make a surface drainage. However, hidden drains make the landscape of the site not only more plausible, but also more practical.

If you have to travel around the site by any kind of transport, then run-ins on open channels will lead to the fact that over time they will need to be altered.
Smooth areas make it easier to do vegetable growing and gardening.
Hidden gutters will make it possible to build additional buildings in the future.

If such intentions are not expected in the future, then open drainage will not become an obstacle, and it can be decorated in the original style of landscape design. The practical side is also obvious: such a system is easier to clean.

As you can see, both types of drainage are good in their own way. Preferences will depend on individual needs, aesthetic considerations and available facilities.

The drainage system, if it is designed correctly and built with high quality, will regularly serve for many decades without any adjustments and repairs, and will provide complete comfort of life in a country house. For more information on how to drain a site with your own hands, we recommend watching the video.

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Features of clay soils

After purchasing a plot of land, it is recommended to determine the type of soil. If there are black earth or sandy soils on this territory, then this greatly facilitates the task of avid gardeners and builders engaged in the construction of a new house. But what if the soil on the site is clay? In this case, the owner will face a lot of problems. And they will start with the discomfort caused by sticky mud, and end with serious economic damage. So, first of all, the lawn near the house will suffer. Clay, when dried, will turn into a hard crust and will be difficult to loosen. This will lead to the fact that the grass planted on the lawn will begin to wither and will certainly dry out. Well, if a period of prolonged downpours comes, the lawn will turn into a kind of swamp. This will lead to rotting of the root system of the plants on it.

“\u003e This problem is even more aggravated if groundwater flows near the surface of such soil. In this case, the clay retains its moisture almost constantly, drying out only on the hottest days of summer. Wet soil is also dangerous in winter. After all, it leads to freezing of the soil to a great depth, which contributes to the destruction of soaked foundations and the destruction of berry and orchards. Anyone who wants to protect their site from such problems should drain the site with their own hands on clay soils.

Preparatory work

Where to start do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils? First of all, you need to carefully examine the territory. It is important to pay special attention to some important points:

the quality and structure of the soil, that is, the presence and depth of clay layers;
the presence of a source that increases the degree of moisture, which can be either groundwater or frequent precipitation;
selection of a type of drainage system suitable for the existing conditions or the adoption of complex measures;
preparation of a drainage scheme or plan, which reflects the order of the location of the necessary trenches and wells (the diagram should indicate such parameters as the dimensions of all system elements, the depth of soil drainage, as well as the relative slope of the structure).

How to determine the quality and structure of the soil? For this, it is sufficient to use a permeation test. It is quite simple, and its implementation will not cause much difficulty. You only need to dig a small diameter hole about 60 cm deep, and then fill it with water. The result of this test can be obtained only in a day. If during this time the water is completely absorbed into the soil, then there are no problems with its disposal on the site. On it you can safely engage in economic activities and build a house without arranging a drainage system. But if the water in the pit lingers at least partially, then in this case a system for removing moisture must be built without fail.

After the stage of preliminary work is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the specific actions that are necessary in order to drain the site with your own hands on clay soils. However, before you implement your plan, you should carefully study the existing types of such systems. This will allow the project to be completed with maximum efficiency.

Types of water drainage systems

How to properly drain the area with clay soil? To do this, you need to decide on its type. Such drainage systems are classified into surface, deep and reservoir. Sometimes a complex method is used to increase the efficiency of water drainage from clayey areas. It involves the simultaneous use of several drainage schemes at once. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Surface drainage

Such a water drainage scheme involves only small deepening into the ground. Surface drainage of the site, as a rule, is used in areas with a slight natural slope. From an extensive network of such shallow canals, water is removed practically by gravity.

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How to properly drain the site if it is enough to complete the surface scheme? In such cases, trenches are laid along footpaths, around lawns, along the perimeter of the foundations of buildings, close to recreation areas, and in other similar places.

The surface drainage scheme of the site on clay soils is in some cases branched networks of drainage trays. At the same time, moisture is removed through plastic or concrete gutters and is collected in special wells designed for this purpose. Further, the water can either be used for economic purposes, or taken to the place of disposal.

Surface or open site drainage is the cheapest in the device.

Deep systems

How to drain a site on clay soil if a large volume of water is required to be drained? In such cases, the construction of a deep system is necessary. This is a network of trenches located at a considerable distance from the soil surface, in which drain pipes are located, directing moisture to cesspools.

Deep drainage of the site consists of several main canals. They are dug to a depth of 1.2 m. The width of such channels is 0.5 m. They are directed towards the catchment area. However, this is far from a complete description of the deep drainage scheme of the clay area. The main canals need a connection to a whole network of drainage trays, auxiliary for their purpose. They can be replaced with small trenches. Such a scheme will allow collecting sediment water from the entire territory.

«\u003e When arranging deep drainage, it is necessary to adhere to one important parameter. This is the allowable distance, which is important to maintain between elements called drains. Under normal conditions, this parameter should not exceed eleven meters. But the exact value of the permissible distance is chosen depending on the depth of the trenches and the quality of the soil.

Compared to surface drainage, deep drainage is a more expensive structure. Indeed, to create it, you will need to use special pipes and geotextile fabrics.

Reservoir systems

This type of drainage system is a type of deep drainage. All elements of the reservoir system are located at a considerable distance from the soil surface.

Such drainage is used if it is necessary to drain water that constantly accumulates around the foundation of a house or other structures located on the site.

How is reservoir drainage performed? For its construction, work is underway to arrange an extensive network of ditches located below the heel of the foundation along its base. A layer of rubble is laid on the bottom of the ditches. It is along them that water is diverted into special pipe channels with perforations located along the perimeter of the building. As you can see, this scheme is rather complicated. That is why its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the foundation itself.

Tools

What is needed in order to proceed with the direct implementation of the plan to remove moisture from the site?

To do this, you will need the following working tools:

shovels for digging trenches;
building level, which will be needed when forming the required angle of inclination;
a manual device (wheelbarrow), on which materials will be delivered to the place of work and land will be taken out;
drilling and cutting tools required for processing and cutting plastic pipes;
string for marking the system.

Construction material

To equip the drainage system in a clayey area, you will need:

textile fabric, with the help of which the water entering the drainage system will be filtered;
some amount of sand and gravel intended for the pillow;
concrete or plastic channels that will provide surface drainage;
a set of plastic perforated pipes, the diameter of which is in the range from 100 to 110 mm, required for deep drainage;
elements of finished catchment wells or their components;
set including pipe fittings.

Organization of the surface system

Open drainage can be trough or backfill. But in either case, such an installation is performed after marking the site for drainage and installing it in its lowest part of the water intake well. Further, trenches should be dug around the perimeter of the working platform. Their slope should be approximately thirty degrees and be directed towards the water intake. The depth of drainage at the site is 50 cm. Trenches are dug with a width of 0.5 to 0.6 m and lead to a common ditch, which goes directly to the catchment.

Backfill drainage

With this type of drainage, after preliminary work, fine sand is used. It is laid out on the bottom of the trenches with a layer of 10 cm and carefully rammed. After that, the ditches are laid with geotextiles and filled by 2/3 with coarse gravel and 1/3 with small ones. The system is closed from above with turf.

Trough drainage

When it is arranged on the bottom of the dug trenches, fine gravel is laid out in a ten-centimeter layer. Further, this material is poured with cement and pre-prepared plastic or concrete trays are immediately installed, at the end of which sand traps are fixed.

Such a system is covered with decorative high-strength grilles.

Deep drainage system

If it is necessary to drain a site with a high groundwater level, then the algorithm for its organization will consist of the following actions:

First of all, you need to mark the site and choose the most suitable place to place the water intake. And only after that, ditches are dug on the working site, the depth of which is from 100 to 120 cm, and the width is 0.5 m. Drainage is carried out in an area with a slope of 30 degrees.
Fill in trenches, and then tamp a layer of sand, the thickness of which is 10 cm.
Lay pre-prepared geotextiles in the ditches so that the material covers their walls and goes out onto the sides.
Pour a 15-centimeter layer of fine crushed stone onto the geotextile.
Lay plastic pipes on top of the rubble. They should be perforated down. Then the pipes are connected with fittings and couplings. At the bends of the resulting drainage lines, there should be inspection wells. They are installed above the ground.
After that, the pipes are covered with fine crushed stone and closed with free edges of the geotextile.
Further, the trenches are closed with sand and soil.
Drain pipes should be directed towards the water intake. Its function can be performed by any plastic container or a self-dug well, fixed with reinforced concrete rings.

Optional equipment

For more efficient operation of the drainage system, special pumps, manholes and heating cables can be installed. What is their purpose?

So, drainage of an area with a high level of groundwater will greatly facilitate a pump specially installed for this purpose. Indeed, when the water collection point is below the place of moisture accumulation, its removal will be complicated. Forced movement of water will solve the problem.

The need for viewing wells arises when the drainage system is silted up or clogged with foreign objects.

The use of heating cables will prevent freezing of the drainage system in winter.

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Features of the territory with a predominance of clay soil

Drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils, as a rule, is necessary for the reason that such areas are characterized by excessive stagnation of water. At the same time, the roots of plants are constantly under the influence of moisture, and air does not enter there in the required volume. This sooner or later becomes the cause of oxygen starvation, while cultivated plants can no longer develop normally and, in the end, die. In particular, this phenomenon applies to lawns, which suffer not only from excess moisture, but also because of a fairly dense turf, because it is not loosened even from time to time and is not plowed. This leads to the fact that the dense layer located on top prevents the full saturation of the plants with air.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils must be equipped before you plant a lawn or all kinds of crops. After that, it will be possible to use the site immediately after the winter season comes to an end, which is accompanied by the disappearance of the snow cover.

What parameters of the site must be taken into account when designing

Before the drainage system is equipped, as a rule, a calculation is made and a draft of the future system is drawn up. However, if you have to work with a territory whose area is not too large, then it is not at all necessary to make a calculation when designing. In this case, the main condition is the need to take into account the main parameters of the system for removing water from the territory. Among them, it is necessary to highlight all the data related to drainage, namely: slope, depth of location, location according to plan, step between rows, installation of inspection wells, as well as the wellhead. The territory of the suburban area is not in all cases even, for this reason, if there is even a slight slope of the soil surface, then it must certainly be used.

Application of features of the terrain relief

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils must be equipped taking into account the slope of the soil surface. If we compare an inclined and a flat area, then it should be noted that it will be somewhat easier to work with the first one. Moreover, in this case, when arranging the drainage system, labor costs will be reduced many times. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out work in such a way that indoor and outdoor drainages are successfully combined.

In the latter case, in the process of carrying out work, ditches are used that have an open top. Such a system is also called superficial. It will be most effective for the outflow of excess water in the warm season, it is at this time that a large amount of precipitation falls, which causes a rise in the level of groundwater. This type of drainage is indispensable in winter. In a number of latitudes, thaws are quite frequent in winter, which are accompanied by frozen soil, which is not able to absorb water, and it becomes necessary to drain liquid from the soil surface. In the cases described, it is absolutely necessary to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, how to do this - you will certainly be interested.

Description of open and closed types of drainage

If you decide to mount an open-type system, then you need to use a special tile, it has a slight slope, which will effectively remove excess moisture. Through a similar system, liquid from the roofs of houses and asphalt sites will flow into a closed drainage system, which acts as a leading one. Closed drainage will work as follows: the liquid that comes from the surface of the soil will flow through underground utilities, which have a shape and resemble pipes in appearance. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of clay soil, which has a significant weight and high density. This indicates the need to loosen it before starting work. During the installation of drains, you will need to bypass areas that are intended for vehicles.

Closed type drainage system installation

If you decide to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to do it. Before starting work, it is imperative to determine what type of water intake will be used in this system. For example, a natural reservoir can play its role; an alternative solution is often used, which involves the withdrawal of water into an artificially equipped ditch. It must be located near the road. But it may also happen that there are none, while the task can be solved in several ways, each of them can be implemented independently. There are several options for arranging fluid outflow. You can equip a pond on your own, making it in the form of a pond. At the same time, you should not be afraid that it will eventually resemble a small wetland. In addition, you can dig a ditch yourself. It must be made deep, and located outside the boundaries of your own site. If you decide to use the latter option, then you must first agree on it with your neighbors.

Alternative drain option

If you intend to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to make the system, otherwise it will not cope with its functions, the plants on the territory will die, and the work will have to be done again. The third option for organizing water flow involves digging oversized wells. Their walls must be made vertical, and after filling, the water must be pumped out using a pump. Such manipulations will have to be done from time to time. For units, it is permissible to make the pumping mode automatic.

Earthworks

Before you do the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands, you first have to dig trenches. They must be located along the perimeter of the suburban area. In this case, the trenches will have to be given such a depth and width that should not be more than indicators equal to 1.2 and 0.4 m. After the ditches are prepared, pipes must be laid in them, which are intended to collect water. These ditches, by the way, have the name of the main ditches. The pre-laid pipes must reach the water intake. In order to fill the main channels, it is preferable to use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm. The depth of the main pipelines, when compared with the collecting branches of the system, should be somewhat deeper. Should be carried out according to the rules of work, when the drainage of the site is being set up with your own hands, advice and guidance must be read before starting work. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

Laying pipelines

In the work, it is imperative to follow the rules that are spelled out in the regulatory and technical literature. They regulate the need to remove drainage pipelines from the fence. So, the step between the pipeline and the fence should be 0.5 m or more. It should be taken into account that the pipeline should also be removed from the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe main building, stepping back from it during the installation of 1 m. The liquid will initially collect in the drainage trenches, only then will it enter the main canals. A whole network of trenches must be created on the territory, the depth and width of which, respectively, should be equal to 1.2 and 0.35 m.

The drainage of the site must necessarily have a certain slope, the master can easily produce a diagram and device with his own hands. Thus, the trench network must be equipped with a slope of 5 cm per meter. In this case, the channels should not be long. If you apply this rule, then the drainage system will work properly. It is not recommended to do a less impressive slope, this is due to the fact that the rate of fluid flow will not be as intense as necessary, this will ultimately cause stagnation in a certain area. If you have to work on the territory of a clayey area, then the drains should be located at a distance of 10 m from each other.

Checking the system for operability

The arrangement of a drainage system on clay soil after the trenches have been dug and pipes are laid in them does not imply the immediate closure of the elements. First, it is necessary to check the drainage for performance and efficiency.

In this case, the trench network must remain open for some time. For testing, heavy rainfall is the most successful option. If such an opportunity does not appear for a long time, then it is simply necessary to let water from the irrigation hose into the trenches. In this case, you should observe how quickly the water flow will pass through the system. The correct functioning is indicated by the absence of stagnation in all sections, this is the only way to check the drainage of the section with our own hands, the technology and rules must be known to the master, only then everything will work without stagnation. If necessary, then at this stage it is necessary to adjust certain parameters that will increase the flow rate.

Solving system functionality problems

If, when checking the system, it was found that it was not working effectively enough, then pipes of a more impressive diameter can be installed, in addition, the slope can be increased. In some cases, craftsmen make a system that is equipped with a denser network. You can close the system if the drainage of the site is working correctly, the specifics of how to drain the soil - all this is important to know even before the start of work.

The final stage

The system can be closed with a geotextile that is capable of passing water. Instead, it is permissible to use volumetric filters, which demonstrate themselves well in the drainage of clay soils. The most practical for drainage work are plastic pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, the surface of which must be corrugated. The connection of pipes must be carried out using tees.

Drainage arrangement price

If you decide to drain the site with your own hands on clay soils, the price of a professional installation should certainly interest you. This may help you decide whether to carry out the work yourself or entrust the job to professionals. So, if you decide to contact a specialist, then the cost of a running meter of surface drainage will cost 1,300 rubles. Whereas the same amount of work, but over deep drainage, will cost 2,400 rubles.

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Clay is a serious problem for the gardener

Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of the greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area, water will destroy everything.

A land with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the base of a building when exposed to constant water.

Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in the lowland, then the drainage system will have to be done without fail. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house risks drowning in the mud.

How to determine clay soil or not

It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate surveys, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. A variant is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil seems to be quite good from above, but literally half a meter later, a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further into the depths.

Only the degree of permeability of the earth can be roughly determined. To do this, it is enough to dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the deepening turns out to be dry, then the area can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, you will definitely have to do drainage on it.

Drain the clay area with your own hands

There are two main ways how you can drain the clay area:

Using a surface drainage system from trays.
By means of deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow only melt and rainwater to be diverted. Only a buried system can handle moisture that is already in the soil.

Wells, trays, and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement, or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. Now you can purchase a whole set of various elements of the storm sewer system from cross-linked polyethylene, you just have to put them together.

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and stormwater gutters are best bought from cross-linked polyethylene. It easily tolerates frost and does not crack when freezing.

The choice of the type of drainage depends on:

the owner's capabilities in terms of finance;
area and relief of the land plot;
estimated volumes of precipitation;
soil structure at different depths.

In any case, first it is necessary to prepare a draft plan of the drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What is needed to build a water drainage system

To drain an area with clay soil from tools, you will need:

Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
Garden wheelbarrow.
A hacksaw for metal or a jigsaw for cutting pipes.
Twine cord for marking.
Construction bubble level

And also you should stock up in advance:

fine gravel with sand;
pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
pipe fittings;
gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
factory-assembled well structures.

Installation of surface drainage

Open drainage on clay soil is the easiest to do. If the groundwater is deep enough, then it will be enough to drain the adjacent territory. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.

The system of collecting and draining water trays for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site where a septic tank or infiltrator is equipped. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or street storm sewer.

The main thing when planning a drainage system is to make the most of the site's relief. If it has a bias, then this is just the perfect case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.

Installation of surface drainage in a clayey area is carried out in five stages:

Digging trenches according to the designed scheme up to half a meter deep.
Filling at the bottom of the ditches with a 15–20 cm thick sand and gravel cushion.
Laying trays at a slope of 2–5 degrees to the water intake.
Covering storm gutters from leaves and debris with metal grates.
Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.

After completing all the work, it remains only to check the performance of the storm drain by letting water into it from the hose.

Deep drainage device

The buried drainage system is formed from the main pipeline and the perforated pipes connected to it. The main line can be made alone - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it with a herringbone pattern. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all the drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.

To lay pipelines, trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep are needed (depending on the level of groundwater and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter cushion of sand with rubble is made and geotextiles are spread, which protects the perforation from clogging.

Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with gravel and covered with geotextile on top. As a result, the perforated drainage pipe should be in gravel on all sides and wrapped in a circular geotextile.

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on earth with clay will quickly clog. Needle-piercing geotextile is an indispensable element of deep drainage in a clayey area.

When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, in addition to the usual non-woven fabric, you can use voluminous coconut fiber casings to wrap pipes. Drains with them are sold ready for installation.

Revision and storage wells can be made from:

bricks;
reinforced concrete;
plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then all wells and a septic tank are also better used from a similar material. It's easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

The combination of a deep and surface drainage system is guaranteed to drain even a swampy area. Such drainage of clay soils has been proven over the years of practice. Its installation is simple, and as part of the maintenance, seasonal inspections and flushing are sufficient. But it is better to entrust the design of the drainage system to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the depth of the laying, slope, diameter of pipes.

If the soil around the house consists of loam and clay, then in the spring and after rains, the territory of the estate turns into a small swamp. It is necessary to drain it somehow and quickly, otherwise the plants will rot, and the foundation will begin to fall apart. Let's figure out how to drain a site on clay soil in order to quickly remove excess water from it.

Herringbone drainage system - the best option for a small area

How to determine clay soil or not

Drain the clay area with your own hands

There are two main ways how you can drain the clay area:

Using a surface drainage system from trays.
By means of deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow only melt and rainwater to be diverted. Only a buried system can handle moisture that is already in the soil.

Drainage scheme for a site with clay soil

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and stormwater gutters are best bought from cross-linked polyethylene. It easily tolerates frost and does not crack when freezing.

The choice of the type of drainage depends on:

the owner's capabilities in terms of finance;
area and relief of the land plot;
estimated volumes of precipitation;
soil structure at different depths.

In any case, first it is necessary to prepare a draft plan of the drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What is needed to build a water drainage system

To drain an area with clay soil from tools, you will need:

Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
Garden wheelbarrow.
A hacksaw for metal or a jigsaw for cutting pipes.
Twine cord for marking.
Construction bubble level

And also you should stock up in advance:

fine gravel with sand;
pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
pipe fittings;
gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
factory-assembled well structures.

Installation of surface drainage

Scheme of surface stormwater from individual elements

Open drainage can be made in the form of comfortable stone gutters

Installation of surface drainage in a clayey area is carried out in five stages:

Digging trenches according to the designed scheme up to half a meter deep.
Filling at the bottom of the ditches with a 15–20 cm thick sand and gravel cushion.
Laying trays at a slope of 2–5 degrees to the water intake.
Covering storm gutters from leaves and debris with metal grates.
Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.

After completing all the work, it remains only to check the performance of the storm drain by letting water into it from the hose.

Deep drainage device

Distance and depth of placement of drains in various soils

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on earth with clay will quickly clog. Needle-piercing geotextile is an indispensable element of deep drainage in a clayey area.

Layout scheme for drainage perforated pipes

Revision and storage wells can be made from:

bricks;
reinforced concrete;
plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then all wells and a septic tank are also better used from a similar material. It's easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

Drainage of the site is carried out in order to drain the soil surface from excessive moisture due to the passage of groundwater underground. An excess of moisture in the soil threatens with the destruction of residential buildings, an obstacle to the growth of vegetation, and also affects the full operation of the sewage system. Therefore, making a drainage system for your estate located on clay soil is task number 1 for every owner. And how to do it yourself, we will tell you in the article.

Type of drainage system

When deciding to create a drainage site, you should plan the layout of the drainage system itself. The decision is based on the type of soil and its topography. A drainage type system is needed where:

clayey areas of the site: if the system is not installed on the surface of such soil, water will stagnate;

flat terrain of the site with the presence of soil movements;

the private territory is located on the slope: during the rainy season, the waters flow down the slope, falling into the living space, which threatens the destruction of buildings.

The drainage structure can be used on any homestead with individual conditions. In modern construction, systems such as surface and closed drainage are used.

Surface drainage type

An open drainage structure is an easy way to drain water from an area after rains or melting snow. It is not difficult to make this drainage with your own hands and with minimal costs. To do this, over the entire living area of \u200b\u200bthe site, you need to dig a trench 50 cm wide and deep. The edge of the trench from which the drains come must be made in the form of a cut at an angle of 30 degrees. This action makes it easier to drain the water into the sump. Further, all dug pits must be connected with one ditch, which leads to a drainage well.

The home system should be tested for strength after installation. To do this, it is filled with water and it is checked in which direction the flows will go. If water does not pass during the test, it means that the installation angle is not laid correctly, and the line needs to be redone.

Such a surface method removes excess moisture well from the surface of the earth. To give an aesthetic look to the drainage line, it is covered with crushed stone, stone.

Closed drainage type

Indoor drainage for the house is necessary if the water table is low. A deep drainage system will be needed to avoid flooding of basements, cellars and failure of the centralized sewage system for the house.

For such purposes, the pipeline is being drained. Before starting work, the place and depth of the future pit are determined.For clayey terrain on which there are residential buildings, you need to make a ditch 60-80 cm deep, for combined - 85-90 cm, and for sandy - 1 meter. After that, the best way of laying the pipeline is chosen.

Selection of pipes for the drainage system

For the drainage structure of a private building, corrugated plastic pipes are used. To carry out drainage with your own hands, it is worth remembering that the chosen installation method depends on the type of area:

Crushed stone - corrugated pipeline is carried out without filtration material.

Clay soil - without lack of filtration, but using a layer of gravel and sand with a height of at least 20 cm.

Loamy soil - the pipe is treated with geotextiles to protect the hole from blockage.

Sandy soil - geotextiles are used as a filter with a layer of crushed stone around the pipe line.

Even in the absence of skills in construction work, drainage for a private house and its implementation will take no more than two weeks.

System construction stages

After choosing a place on the site and the material of the product, you can proceed to the installation part of the construction. First of all, a ditch of the required depth is dug near the house. The bottom of the trench is laid with geotextiles. The material is spread over the entire surface with an overlap. It is better to choose geotextiles on a soft basis so that water permeability is better.

If it is decided not to use geomaterial, the bottom of the trench can be made of rubble-sand interlayer 15 cm high. After that, the pipeline is laid using a triple connection device. The pipe is compacted from above with sand and gravel, and the surface is covered with earth.

There are different ways to remove unnecessary water from the site. For such purposes, it is possible to install a sewer well, which is constructed by hand using concrete rings or a finished plastic product. A drainage pipeline is lowered into the well, and a pipe or pump is installed on the surface of the site to collect excess moisture.

A do-it-yourself drainage system is not a laborious process, it does not require specialized equipment or the involvement of professionals. Drainage of an open and closed type for a site with a clay type of soil will completely remove excess moisture from the surface of the soil, thus protecting buildings from premature destruction.

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