Laying heating pipes through the doorway. Two-pipe heating system in a one-story house

1 Design and features of a one-pipe system
1.1 Benefits
1.2 Disadvantages
2 Planning
3 Installation
4 videos

Having built a house, many people begin to think about how to make heating in it. It should be noted right away that this approach is fundamentally wrong, since it had to be taken care of at the planning stage. This is due to the fact that if you want to install a one-pipe heating system with polypropylene pipes, then it will not be so easy, and you may have to destroy what has already been done. This concerns not only making holes in the walls, but also chipping the floor, since it is quite understandable to want to make the home not only warm, but also beautiful by laying the pipes in such a way that they do not spoil the design of the heated room.

The device and features of a one-pipe system

One pipe system

The peculiarity of a one-pipe heating system is that a pipe goes from the boiler, the other end of which again comes to the boiler. Heating radiators are connected to it without breaking the line.

Such heating systems can be:

horizontal (flowing);
with top routing (vertical).

Both systems can be either closed or open.

Radiator thermostat The classic (most often used) is horizontal pipe routing. For retrofitting any battery, you can purchase:

radiator regulator;

Ball Valves;

thermostatic valve, etc.

As mentioned at the beginning of the article, one of the advantages of a one-pipe system is the ability to hide communications in the floor. This is an important factor, because now few people hide heating radiators behind curtains, and this is not practical, since the air circulation near the batteries is disrupted, as a result of which it is necessary to raise the temperature on the boiler, and this leads to unnecessary fuel consumption.

If the assembled system does not have a counter slope or height differences, then it can work without a pump.

Read also Combined heating systems: building systems using different types of fuel

Advantages

The installation of a one-pipe system is carried out with a smaller number of pipes (30-40%).

A simple wiring diagram that can be installed by a layman.

Compared to a two-pipe heating system, the installation of a one-pipe heating system is faster.

The system can be installed both in a one-storey building and in a building with several floors.

There are no problems with how to bypass the doorway when installing pipes.

disadvantages

Installed Mayevsky crane

Having talked about the advantages, it is necessary to mention the disadvantages.

Each battery must be equipped with a Mayevsky valve or an automatic bleeding system from the air system.

Uneven distribution of the coolant - more chilled water comes to each next battery, so the efficiency of the last radiator will be low. The situation can be improved by installing a circulation pump in the system.

Planning

Not everyone can use computer programs for modeling in 3D projection of their home, which would undoubtedly be very convenient. Considering this nuance, consider how to make a plan by hand by writing everything on a piece of paper.

When drawing up a diagram, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarity of installing a system of polypropylene pipes - it is impossible to make smooth turns in it.

When making a drawing, you need to take into account that the line must be laid with a slight slope - at least 0.5 cm per 1 rm of the pipe, otherwise it will not work without a pump.
We decide on the place of installation of the boiler.
If, for some reason, the pipes cannot be hidden in the floor, then you will have to perform outdoor installation or partially hide the pipes in the floor - in the place of greatest depression.
On the diagram, we mark the places where the batteries are installed, noting what power they should be.

It is important to choose the height of the battery and the number of sections

When determining how many sections are needed for a room, you need to take into account that each subsequent battery heats up weaker, so you need to increase the number of sections of type-setting batteries (or the area if the radiators are steel).

If taps, heat regulators, etc. are installed, then this should also be reflected in the diagram.
Having a complete picture, you can calculate how many pipes, fittings and those elements that are planned for retrofitting are required.

How to avoid or fix the most common mistakes in the heating system

Boiler room

Not enough air to sustain combustion

In a boiler equipped with atmospheric burners, combustion air is taken directly from the boiler room.

The boiler will start to work poorly, intermittently, with drops, go out, sometimes pops are heard (not always, sometimes the boiler “slams” if air has entered the gas pipeline for some reason), etc. if the air supply is insufficient.

This situation is not so rare - often calling the masters with the question “ why does the boiler go out?»We forget about oxygen for combustion.

It is easy to fix the situation with your own hands - install ventilators, or ventilation in the wall of the boiler room, and in its door.

How to fix: Installation of ventilation in the boiler room, holes in the boiler room door.

The boiler is installed in a damp room.

If a boiler (even a liquid-fuel one, even a gas one) is installed in a room with high humidity, it will wear out and break down many times faster - this is an axiom. It is clear that this situation can be corrected only by installing a boiler room in a dry and ventilated place. Also take note of the fact that in a room where a solid fuel boiler and a gas or liquid fuel boiler are installed together, the latter will also break faster due to dirt and work worse.

How to fix: Plan ahead for the boiler room in a suitable room. Do not install a solid fuel boiler and a gas or liquid fuel boiler.

If the chimney is too low

The chimney must be designed so that it has a so-called "effective height" (ie this is the distance from the outlet to the firebox) which allows the combustion products to be removed without hindrance.

For a liquid fuel boiler, the effective height is 5 meters, for a gas boiler, at least 4 meters.

If the chimney is shorter in length and height, then the draft will not be enough. If the boilers of the old designs are at least thin, but work "refreshing" the air in the boiler room with the products of fuel combustion, then the boilers of the new design with draft sensors in the chimney will simply turn off.

In lower chimneys, the chimney draft will be insufficient. In this case, modern boilers equipped with chimney draft sensors will turn off, and in old boilers, combustion products can penetrate from the firebox into the room.

How to fix: Make a chimney of the desired height in advance, as a rule, it is provided for in the project of a house under construction.

Installation of a shut-off valve in the heating system

For safety reasons, there should be no shut-off or shut-off valves in the heating system. Many people make them in order, for example, to start up heating in a "small circle" and not warm up the whole house. This is dangerous because if you accidentally close the shut-off valve, it will not be able to get into the expansion tank, and if this is so, then it will have nowhere to expand, and when the temperature rises, the heating system can simply break, and no modern automation installed in the boiler will not be able to guarantee you the opposite.

How to fix: Do not turn on the taps at all ...

If the boiler is bought too powerful

"You can't spoil porridge with butter" is not about heating ...

Often we buy boilers with the expectation of a hypothetical "growth" of the house - extensions, attics, etc. Then we settle down in the house and the desire to make an annex disappears.

You should not buy a boiler that exceeds the capacity laid down in the project of a new house - it is not yet known whether to build a house or not, but it is not known why it will be spent on a more powerful one, which means that a more expensive boiler will have to be spent right now.

After all, the required heat energy and the need for it are calculated based on the most unfavorable conditions, for a temperature of -6 to -25 degrees, and there are few such days during the heating season, and during them the boiler operates at full capacity. That is, roughly speaking, in the boiler, calculated in the project, there is already a certain power reserve "for future use".

How to fix: Do not buy a more powerful boiler than is necessary in this house, or buy and be sure that you will build it for sure - otherwise money is wasted, and an increase in heating bills.

Heating system

Use of pipes for the heating system that are not designed for this purpose (for example, plastic pipes for installing plumbing).

If for the installation of a central heating system you use pipes that, to put it mildly, are not intended for this, then there are only 2 options for the development of events - either the service life of the heating system will be several times shorter, or constant accidents.

For the installation of the heating system, use

Welded steel pipes (typically for the most traditional, conventional branching and riser systems).
Copper pipes

Plastic anti-diffusion pipes

Any pipes that will be used for a heating device must have a certificate confirming this.

How to fix: Use pipes designed for heating and nothing else.

The diameter of the pipes of the heating system does not match the one described in the project.

If the pipes are smaller in diameter, then the hydraulic resistance increases.

If the diameter is larger, then this will increase the inertia of the heating system, higher energy consumption (after all, the coolant needs to be heated), an imbalance occurs in the system, and they are more expensive.

The cross-sections of the pipes must always correspond to those specified in the project: pipes with a smaller cross-section increase the hydraulic resistance to the flow, and a larger one:

How to fix it: It is important to make a heating system in advance from pipes with a diameter stipulated by the project documentation for the house.

Heating system made of pipes made of different materials

Each material has its own coefficient of thermal expansion. Not all pipes are compatible with each other, not only in physical but also in chemical indicators and properties.

For example: aluminum and copper are not compatible with each other, since a reaction occurs at their junction, which in turn causes accelerated corrosion of aluminum.

How to fix: use dielectric gaskets when installing heating at the junction of various materials and add corrosion inhibitors to the water as the main coolant, which will slow it down, but will not completely eliminate it.

Tip: Also, when installing a heating system, use all the components of the same manufacturer (and pipes and fittings) so as not to lose the warranty, which is possible only when using parts of the same production.

Heating wiring is wrong.

High-quality materials for the installation and arrangement of the central heating system is a matter of course, because these are not wallpapers that you don't like and you can stick others directly on the old ones. As a rule, the heating system usually breaks down during the period of intensive use - and therefore in winter. I think it's not worth describing the consequences of this. Therefore, heating must be done seriously and for a long time, which means it is correct and in accordance with the project.

Based on this:

Lay heating pipes in a chimney or ventilation duct or shaft.
Try to avoid routing pipes through expansion gaps, and if this cannot be avoided, route them in thermowells.
If some of the heating pipes pass under the floor, then lay the plastic ones inside special protective pipes, and therefore take into account their increased coefficient of thermal expansion.
The section of the system mounted under the floor (if plastic) must be made in one piece - from the radiator to the collector.
Plastic pipes are very sensitive to mechanical deformation and damage, and their fragments between the floor and the connection to the battery, the radiator must be protected by sleeves as well.

The heating section passing through an unheated room has no thermal insulation

This is fraught with an increase in the cost of heating the house. After all, water passing through an unheated part of the system cools down (and quite decently, depending on its length).

How to fix: Actually to make thermal insulation, there are now a lot of materials for thermal insulation of pipes, they are inexpensive.

Installation, assembly of air valves (Mayevsky valves) in the system

The heating system in the house must be equipped with air valves. For better, efficient removal of air from the heating system, it is better to mount them on risers (at the highest points) or on heating radiators (they are often equipped with them already at the factory)

Access to them should always be, traffic jams in the system are not such a rare thing. Therefore, do not force them with furniture, drawers, books, etc.

It is best to use automatic air valves. They have a special float that, depending on the presence of water or air, descends releasing air and eliminating the plug or floats up, blocking the hole when the water has gone.

There are also automatic air valves with a float that lowers when air is present (releases air) and floats up (closes the opening) when water is present.

Convenient filling of the system with water.

If the system is made of small diameter pipes, if it is large and complex (for example, in a two-story or multi-level house), then the longer it takes to fill it with water, while simultaneously removing the air that forms the plugs from it.

To prevent this from turning into a painful task, install a faucet and a branch pipe at the lowest point of the heating system with the ability to put on a hose coming from the water supply. If you do it, you can drive the air out of the system with a couple of trifles, and you can fill the heating with water within 5-7 minutes (this is how much the system fills in my 2-storey building. wall) from the expansion tank on the second floor).

Water from the system - to drain for the summer or not?

I will answer briefly - do not merge. If there is a need to make repairs, maintenance or modernization of the heating system - drain, do the necessary things and if everything is in order, fill it back.

I talk a lot on this topic with other masters - everyone in a holo says that heating breaks down more often if the water was drained in the summer.

Installation of a room thermostat that controls the operation of the boiler in the wrong place

Such places can be a place too lit by the sun, a draft, a "dull" room. In this case, it will react incorrectly and it will be either too hot or cold.

Lack of the required headroom when installing underfloor heating.

Incorrect installation of underfloor heating most often happens when the decision to install them is made after the construction of the house, or, for example, after renovation.

All this happens because the layer of thermal insulation, for example, on the interfloor floor, the layer of thermal insulation is much smaller than a similar layer laid on the ground, and the necessary headroom required for the floor heating system directly depends on this distance.

Photo 1: To complete the underfloor heating system, it is necessary to provide for an appropriate margin in thickness so that all the layers provided for in the project fit

How to fix it: Decide in advance whether you will be installing underfloor heating or not, and calculate the required estimated height.

We did not check the underfloor heating system for leaks before closing it with a finishing floor covering (screed, laminate, tiles).

Be sure to check after the installation of the underfloor heating whether its installation is correct and hermetically sealed. It can easily happen that you are not to blame when installing the underfloor heating system with your own hands - but the manufacturer who released the marriage is to blame and the system "leaks" - it is better to check everything right after assembly than to break the tile or screed later.

They made a screed for the system of plastic pipes, but they did not fill it with water.

Similar to the previous error, but not the same. The bottom line is that during the installation of the screed material stress in the pipes arises and often leads to damage, both of individual units and of the entire system. The situation is, of course, quite rare, but it should not be written off from the accounts - since filling the system with water in advance is not a lot of hassle. In addition, this way you will protect the screed from cracks.

Expansion gaps not made or made incorrectly.

Expansion gaps serve to prevent cracking, deformation and possible cracks in the heated surface.

So the device of expansion gaps is necessary:

If the room or other room is narrow and long (more than eight meters long, and one side of the room is more than 100% longer than the other)
Under the doors
In rooms with a large area
If a room, a room of complex shape ("G" or "T" -shaped).

Attention: The expansion gap must be made through ALL (!) Layers, until the very finishing. It is usually filled with special tapes.

We turned on the warm floors for heating when the screed had not yet dried out.

Since the overwhelming majority of the installation of the "warm" floor system takes place under the screed, then this mistake is often common. The owners turn on the underfloor heating immediately after pouring the concrete in the hope that the screed will "dry faster". The result is cracking of the screed, which means you have to break it and make a new one.

What to do: Do not rush, but let the screed dry out in natural conditions.

Errors in connecting radiators and fittings

When installing the heating, the "supply" and "return" in the radiators were confused.

The overwhelming majority of radiators with bottom connection have such a device in which the supply pipe of the heating system must be connected to the pipe that is closer to the center (i.e. internal), and the opposite, on the contrary, to the extreme.

If the panel radiator is connected incorrectly and vice versa (supply to the extreme, external, and return to the internal), then the heat transfer may decrease by 50%, sometimes even more.

Connection of a panel radiator with top connection to the system inside the floor.

This is not to say that this is a mistake - sometimes masters resort to this connection method as needed, but in any case it is fraught with a decrease in power and the formation of an air plug in the panel radiator.

Installation of decorative screens on radiators

Also, in principle, by and large, this cannot be called a mistake, especially in houses with old batteries, which are easier to "completely paint over than to tear off" ...

It's all about the circulation of hot air and heat transfer - it can drop up to 20% when installing a blank screen, especially if the gap between the battery and the floor from below and the window sill and radiator from above is small.

Exit: Do not install any protective screens at all or install screens in the form of lattices.

Installing the screen next to the thermostatic valve.

If you install a screen next to the thermostatic valve, then it will react to the readings incorrectly, since it will be in hotter air than the rest of the living space and will stubbornly turn off the heating in the radiator when the room is still cold.

How to fix: Outlet 2 - do not install screens nearby or install a thermostatic valve with a remote sensor installed in the desired part of the room, away from the radiator.

Installing the thermostatic head vertically

Warm air from the radiator, the battery will rise vertically, in an ascending direction, "enveloping" the head sensor, as a result of which the sensor head will contact not with the main mass of air in the room, but with the heated air from the battery - the readings will be incorrect, and the thermostatic sensor will be work wrong.

How does a thermostatic valve work?

Thermostatic valve (thermostat) consists of a valve and a thermostatic head. Its principle of operation is simple. Under the influence of temperature, the substance that is in the bellows of the head increases its volume. This causes pressure on the stem and closure of the valve. The hot water flow through the radiator is stopped. Conversely, if the room temperature decreases, the bellows is compressed and the valve opens the flow of hot water through the radiator. The rotary dial with dial can be used to set the desired room temperature. It can usually be set in the range of 6-28 ° C. The minimum temperature - 6-8 ° C - is the so-called watch. If the room temperature falls below this value, the valve automatically opens; this prevents freezing of water in the system and excessive cooling of the room.

Photo 2: Principle of operation and drawing diagram of the thermostatic valve

In the drawing in numbers:

DIY heating installation tips

A valve must not be installed on the pipe connecting the expansion vessel to the boiler. Accidental overlap can destroy the system.
The flue of an attic boiler may be too short. For installation in such a place, a boiler with a closed combustion chamber is more suitable. Air supply to it and the removal of combustion products will be carried out through a coaxial pipe-in-pipe channel, led through the wall or roof.
One of the conditions for the correct operation of the boiler is the supply of sufficient air for combustion. For this, an inlet can be made in the outer foam. From the boiler room side, this hole should be approximately 30 cm above the floor.
A gas boiler, especially a modern one, will only work well in a clean, dry and well-ventilated area.
It is desirable that the entire system is made of one material. But some boiler manufacturers recommend installing the area next to the boiler in plastic systems from copper or steel pipes.
Steel pipes, in comparison with plastic ones, have a significantly lower coefficient of thermal linear expansion.
Laying plastic pipes in the floor, given their high coefficient of thermal linear expansion, is only necessary in protective pipes.
For the installation of the central heating system, only the pipes intended for this should be used. The pipes must be marked accordingly.
To prevent the system from leaking during operation, the connection from the collector to the radiator must be made in one piece and after installation, a pressure test must be carried out.
The pipe section between the floor and the radiator must be laid in the wall or covered with protective sleeves.
Manual air valves are standard on new radiators. In addition, automatic air valves are used to remove air from the system.
Special brackets are used to fasten the pipes to the floor. In places where pipes pass through the expansion gap, they are laid in special sleeves (top photo), which protect against possible damage.
If you really want to close the radiator, it is better to use an openwork screen for this. It is also necessary to leave the thermostatic valve head uncovered.
A vertically installed head will reduce the flow of hot water into the radiator more than it would if it were installed correctly. As a result, less heat will enter the room than is needed.
A head with an external (remote) thermal sensor. The length of the capillary connecting the sensor to the head is 2 m.
For panel radiators with bottom connection, the supply pipe must be connected to the inner (closer to the center) branch pipe, and the return pipe to the extreme one. Reconnecting will reduce the power of the radiator by almost half.

By ordering installation work in the "Thermodynamics" company, you will definitely receive an additional discount on equipment and materials.

It is advisable to think over the heating system even during the construction of the house. It is necessary to provide niches for risers in advance, if necessary - a separate room for the boiler room. But even if the house has already been built, you can find a way out of any situation, especially since modern technologies allow it. To start installing the heating system, the house must have a roof and windows. Pipes can be laid with hidden wiring, for example, they can be built into the floor, in specially designed screeds. If it is not possible to do this, then it will have to be laid in the walls. It is more expedient to install the heating when the walls are already plastered, but the screed has not yet been poured, so that after installing the radiators you do not have to pick the plaster and correct the conclusions. You can make the installation in this way - first, make pipe leads with a margin, and after plastering the walls, hang and connect the radiators. But this way is longer. For maximum accuracy, it is best to follow the following technology. First of all, you need to hang up all the radiators, but you do not need to remove the film from them until the very start of the heating system. If the exits to the radiators will pass from the wall, then it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the strobes, remove the radiator and grind out the places for the pipes. When everything is ready, you need to hang the radiators back, make the heating pipes and connect them to the radiators. It is better to cover the places where the eyeliner comes out of the wall with alabaster. When the solution has frozen, the radiators can be removed and put aside away from the place where the finishing work will take place, otherwise even the film will not save them from damage and dust. If the finishing work in the house is completed, there is still the option of laying hidden wiring. Heating pipes can be laid along the walls, at the bottom, in ducts specially designed for them. In the professional language, such a pipe installation is called "plinth wiring". You can pay the money and turn to Western pipe manufacturers - you can buy a ready-made "plinth wiring" system from them, with all the materials and well-thought-out assemblies. But, if you do not want to pay extra money, you can do this wiring yourself. By the way, you can use plastic ones as boxes. These are often used to hide electrical wires. If the heating system of your house uses a triple wiring, it is better to lay pipes along the walls, but at the same time step back 10-15 cm so as not to spoil them when you nail the baseboards. In the last century in heating systems for draining, slopes were observed towards the taps. Currently, the designs of modern systems do not allow this, and there is no point in this either. But the main point that needs to be taken into account when laying is that there should be no large "humps" in the pipes, that is, you need to make sure that air jams do not appear in the heating system over time. If this problem cannot be avoided, there is a way out - an automatic air vent must be installed at the top point. To get around the doorway with pipes, it is advisable to run them along the floor than to lay them around the entire opening along the top, thereby creating a large loop. In cold rooms, it is undesirable to engage in the installation of a heating system. As a rule, manufacturers of polymer pipes warn against installing them at temperatures below 7 degrees. The brittleness of metal-plastic pipes increases during operation at low temperatures, welding of polypropylene pipes deteriorates, and brazing copper pipes is generally not worth it - the low temperature is felt quite strongly. Therefore, it is worth thinking in advance and calculating the installation so that the system is launched before the cold weather begins.

The device and features of a one-pipe system

The peculiarity of a one-pipe heating system is that a pipe goes from the boiler, the other end of which again comes to the boiler. Heating radiators are connected to it without breaking the line.

Such heating systems can be:

horizontal (flowing);
with top routing (vertical).

Both systems can be either closed or open.

The classic (most often used) is horizontal pipe routing. For retrofitting any battery, you can purchase:

radiator regulator;
Ball Valves;
thermostatic valve, etc.

If the assembled system does not have a counter slope or height differences, then it can work without a pump.

Advantages

The installation of a one-pipe system is carried out with a smaller number of pipes (30–40%).
A simple wiring diagram that can be installed by a layman.
Compared to a two-pipe heating system, the installation of a one-pipe heating system is faster.
The system can be installed both in a one-storey building and in a building with several floors.
There are no problems with how to bypass the doorway when installing pipes.

disadvantages

Having talked about the advantages, it is necessary to mention the disadvantages.

Each battery must be equipped with a Mayevsky valve or an automatic bleeding system from the air system.
Uneven distribution of the coolant - more chilled water comes to each next battery, so the efficiency of the last radiator will be low. The situation can be improved by installing a circulation pump in the system.

Planning

When drawing up a diagram, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarity of installing a system of polypropylene pipes - it is impossible to make smooth turns in it.

When making a drawing, you need to take into account that the line must be laid with a slight slope - at least 0.5 cm per 1 rm of the pipe, otherwise it will not work without a pump.
We decide on the place of installation of the boiler.
If, for some reason, the pipes cannot be hidden in the floor, then you will have to perform outdoor installation or partially hide the pipes in the floor - in the place of greatest depression.
On the diagram, we mark the places where the batteries are installed, noting what power they should be.

When determining how many sections are needed for a room, you need to take into account that each subsequent battery heats up weaker, so you need to increase the number of sections of type-setting batteries (or the area if the radiators are steel).

If taps, heat regulators, etc. are installed, then this should also be reflected in the diagram.
Having a complete picture, you can calculate how many pipes, fittings and those elements that are planned for retrofitting are required.

Mounting

For the installation of the heating system considered in the article, not so many tools are required. It:

soldering iron for mounting plastic pipes;
scissors for cutting plastic pipes;
shaver (if pipes with external reinforcement are purchased).

Solid polymer products are only suitable for water supply. It is necessary to purchase reinforced pipes, the characteristics of which allow them to be used for heating. It is best if basalt fiber or aluminum foil is used as a reinforcing layer - in this case, the elongation coefficient of the pipe is reduced by three times, in contrast to products with fiberglass.

From the windowsill - 10-12 cm.
From the wall - 3-5 cm.
From the floor - 8-12 cm.

When purchasing batteries, these requirements must be taken into account.

You can read about how to find out how many battery sections you need to install for one room in the article on bimetallic radiators.

Holes are drilled in the wall with a puncher, into which we install fasteners.
Now you need to prepare the batteries. If they are covered with a film from the factory, then it does not need to be removed yet.
Adhering to the plan, we install air vents, thermostats and ball valves.
We hang the batteries in their places and with a building level we check the horizontal position of their position.
Next, the pipes are soldered. It is important not to forget that it is necessary to observe the slope of the main highway.
It is better to install a bypass with a pump on the return line in front of the boiler.
It is imperative to install an expansion tank and a block with elements of a security group.
It is not necessary to fill a one-pipe heating system with water from the lowest point, since all the same, each radiator will be with air that needs to be vented. If an automatic air vent system is installed, then they themselves will cope with this task.

It remains to start the boiler and check the performance of the self-assembled one-pipe system.

Video

See how to make a one-pipe heating system.

Autonomous heating is the most common in country houses. This is due to the lack of centralized or non-passage of gas trunklines in most rural areas. For heating, boilers of small sizes are used, operating on solid, liquid fuels, electric energy and natural gas, supplied in cylinders. The most commonly used water heating, which is characterized by simplicity and reliability, compactness and hygiene. The main equipment with this method includes the following elements:

hot water boiler;
radiator batteries;
water pipes;
expansion tank;
shut-off and control valves.

Traditionally used heating schemes

Depending on the type of pipe laying route and the connection of pipes to heating devices, the following systems are distinguished:

Single pipe... The circulation of the heat carrier is carried out through one pipe without the use of pumps. The radiator batteries are connected in series on the main line, from the very last through the pipe the cooled medium is returned to the boiler ("return"). The system is simple to implement and economical due to the need for fewer pipes. But the parallel movement of streams leads to a gradual cooling of the water, as a result, to the radiators located at the end of the series chain, the carrier arrives significantly cooled. This effect increases with an increase in the number of radiator sections. Therefore, in rooms located near the boiler, it will be excessively hot, and in remote rooms, it will be cold. To increase heat transfer, the number of sections in the batteries is increased, different pipe diameters are installed, additional control valves are installed, and each radiator is equipped with bypasses.
Two-pipe... Each radiator battery is connected in parallel to the pipes for the direct supply of the hot coolant and the “return”. That is, each device is supplied with an individual outlet to the "return". With the simultaneous discharge of cooled water into the common circuit, the coolant returns to the boiler for heating. But at the same time, the heating of the heating devices also gradually decreases as they move away from the heat supply sources. The radiator located first in the network receives the hottest water and is the first to give the carrier to the “return”, and the one located at the end receives the coolant as the last one with a lowered heating temperature and also the last to give water to the return circuit. In practice, in the first appliance, the hot water circulation is the best, and in the last one it is the worst. It is worth noting the increased price of such systems in comparison with one-pipe systems.

Both schemes are justified for small areas, but ineffective with long networks.

An improved two-pipe heating scheme is Tichelman. When choosing a specific system, the determining factor is the availability of financial capabilities and the ability to provide the heating system with equipment that has the optimal required characteristics.

Tichelman heating feature

The idea of changing the principle of operation of the "return" was substantiated in 1901 by the German engineer Albert Tichelman, in whose honor it got its name - "Tichelman loop". The second name is “reversible type return system”. Since the movement of the coolant in both circuits, supply and return, is carried out in the same, concurrent direction, the third name is often used - “scheme with concomitant movement of thermal carriers”.

The essence of the idea lies in the presence of the same length of straight and return pipe sections connecting all radiator batteries with a boiler and a pump, which creates the same hydraulic conditions in all heating devices. Circulation loops of equal length create conditions for the hot coolant to pass the same path to the first and last radiators with the same thermal energy being received by them.

Tichelman loop diagram:

Installation procedure

The work consists of the following operations:

Boiler installation. The required minimum height of the room for its placement is 2.5 m, the allowable volume of the room is 8 cubic meters. m. The required power of the equipment is determined by calculation (examples are given in special reference books). Approximately for heating 10 sq. m requires a power of 1 kW.
Mounting of radiator sections. The use of biometric products in private homes is recommended. After selecting the required number of radiators, their location is marked (as a rule, under window openings) and fastened using special brackets.
Pulling the line of the associated heating system. It is optimal to use metal-plastic pipes that successfully withstand high temperature conditions, which are distinguished by their durability and ease of installation. The main pipelines (supply and "return") from 20 to 26 mm and 16 mm for connecting radiators.
Installation of a circulation pump. It is mounted on the return pipe near the boiler. The tie-in is performed through a bypass with 3 taps. A special filter must be installed in front of the pump, which will significantly increase the life of the device.
Installation of an expansion tank and elements that ensure the safety of the equipment. For a heating system with a passing flow of the coolant, only membrane expansion vessels are selected. The elements of the safety group are supplied complete with the boiler.

For tracing the main line of doorways in utility rooms and utility rooms, it is allowed to mount pipes directly above the door. In this place, in order to exclude the accumulation of air, automatic air vents are necessarily installed. In residential areas, pipes can be laid under a door in the floor body or bypassing an obstacle using a third pipe.

Tichelman's scheme for two-story houses provides for a certain technology. Piping is carried out with the tying of the entire building as a whole, and not each floor separately. It is recommended to install one circulation pump on each floor while maintaining equal lengths of return and supply pipelines for each radiator separately in accordance with the basic conditions of the associated two-pipe heating system. If you install one pump, which is quite acceptable, then if it fails, the heating system in the entire building will turn off.

Many experts consider it advisable to install a common riser on two floors with separate piping on each floor. This will allow taking into account the difference in heat loss on each floor with the selection of pipe diameters and the number of required sections in radiator batteries.

A separate passing heating scheme on the floors will greatly simplify the setup of the system and allow for optimal balancing of the heating of the entire building. But in order to obtain the desired effect, it is imperative that a tie-in into the path of the balancing crane is required for each of the two floors. The taps can be placed side by side directly next to the boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Tichelmann system

Main advantages:

versatility for installation in premises of various purposes, layouts and sizes. Possibility of installing a large number of devices. Optimal heating of summer cottages with uniform heating during short overnight stays in winter;
there is no need for complex balancing with the installation of expensive adjusting equipment;
uniform heating of all rooms in the building with the ability to adjust the heat output by each radiator;
ease of installation and maintenance of the system;
durability of operation and rarely occurring breakdowns.

Cons:

high cost caused by the increased length of pipelines and the inability to use small diameters;
it is not always possible to lay the hinge around the perimeter of the house due to interfering architectural features (high window and door openings, staircases and other obstacles).

The emergence of modern circulation pumps with the ability to efficiently pump coolants has made the associated heating system one of the most popular.

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