Anton Tsugunov
Reading time: 4 minutes
Plumbing equipment is subject to intense operational stress and often fails. When the toilet cistern is constantly leaking, it brings big losses due to excessive consumption of water. It is impractical to call the masters due to the failure of the device, since the repair for the most part consists in setting up the tank mechanism. But in order to understand how to fix a toilet, you first need to know how it works. We will figure out how to independently repair the toilet cistern with a button.
Toilet device
The toilet bowl includes the following elements:
- Toilet bowl connected to the sewer pipe with a sealed cuff.
- A cistern with fittings for filling and draining with water.
The water supply hose is connected to the tank. It can be connected from the side or from below, depending on the design. The bowl and cistern are usually connected to each other using bolts and seals.
Components of fittings:
- pull rod trigger with drain button;
- a shut-off device (inlet valve) connected to the float;
- rubber sealed gaskets.
How does a toilet with a button work?
A toilet cistern with a button is a water seal that is filled with a portion of water that is fed into the bowl when the shutter is opened. The flush is controlled by a button that must be pressed. At the same time, the valve opens, and water flows down under its own weight, washing the bowl. After emptying the tank, the inlet shut-off valve opens, the tank is filled with the next portion to a certain level, regulated by a float. Access to the mechanism is provided by opening the top cover of the tank.
Preparing for repair
Before you fix the toilet cistern, you must open it. It can only be accessed from above if the cover is removed. In many modifications it is attached with a ring around the button. This ring must be pressed and turned counterclockwise. After prolonged use, the ring may not turn. Then a few drops of oil are applied to the attachment site. After the ring turns, unscrew it, and then release the button from the plastic clothespins and remove the cover.
DIY repair methods for the tank mechanism
The entire drainage valve mechanism is visible through the upper opening in the tank. It may have the following faults:
- The tank is constantly leaking.
- There is no water pressure at the inlet.
- Uncontrolled drain mechanism.
The reasons for these malfunctions can be different, and the way in which the toilet cistern will be repaired depends on them.
- The plug (pear) does not fit tightly to the drain hole. To avoid this, you should purchase high quality plumbing. The repair can be checked by pressing the stem down with little force. If the water does not flow, the plug can be slightly weighted with additional weight or the stem can be leveled. You also need to periodically clean the seal from rust and salts, due to which the tightness is broken, and the liquid constantly flows into the bowl.
- The regulator does not shut off the water supply. In this case, the tank will never overflow, thanks to the presence of an overflow pipe. The serviceability of each element of the device is checked: the float, the inlet valve, fasteners, and the rod. The failed part is replaced or the float mount is simply tightened.
- Leakage from the tank into the room. It may have a crack or the seal of the gaskets is broken. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the connection between the current tank and the bowl. It needs to be tightened, and if this does not help, the rubber pad changes. Another cause of leakage may be wear of the cuff in the junction of the bowl drain with the sewer pipe. The seal is changed to a new one, after cleaning the connection from dirt and treating the surfaces with a sealant.
- Weak head through the inlet valve. This usually happens if it becomes clogged. This can be prevented by cleaning or installing a filter in front of it.
Replacing the intake valve
Before you repair the toilet, turn off the water supply tap. It connects to the pipeline from the riser. After that, a flexible hose is unscrewed from the intake mechanism. It can be easily removed by loosening the mount. Instead, a new or refurbished one is installed. Assembly is carried out upside-down. The plastic thread does not require sealing, and the fluoroplastic tape is wound on the brass thread.
Replacing the drain valve
The main cause is wear of the O-ring under the valve. To replace it, you need to remove the hardware and install a new gasket. After that, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
The water release button should always be used carefully and pressed without sudden force.
Adjusting the water level in the tank
The water level can be easily adjusted by hand. For this, the float is installed in a certain position.
The optimal level is considered to be when the water supply to the container has stopped, and a few centimeters are left to its upper edge.
The adjustment method depends on the valve design. The easiest is to bend a metal bar. If the float moves along a horizontal plastic guide, it is fixed with fastening elements in a certain position. In a vertical arrangement, it is moved with an adjusting screw.
The overflow tube must not be forgotten when choosing the fill level. Its upper edge should be a couple of centimeters above the water level in the filled container. If it is located lower, water will constantly flow into the bowl through the overflow.
Tank troubleshooting
The tank may leak water due to a crack in it. The same goes for the bowl. In this case, the question of how to repair the cistern or bowl is not worth it: the entire toilet is usually changed. A small crack in the tops of the stoneware can be repaired. To prevent it from spreading further and not increasing the seepage of water, it is drilled at the ends and processed along the entire length with sandpaper. The work is done neatly.
The surface is degreased and the gap is filled with epoxy. After hardening, the seam is grinded.
Repair of the built-in tank (with installation)
It is more difficult to get to the mechanism of the tank installed behind the false wall. First of all, you should purchase a device with high reliability, which rarely requires repair. There should be inspection hatches in the wall through which you can get to the tank and replace the gaskets if the tightness is broken. It is impossible to repair the drain fittings with your own hands due to the complexity of the design.
A coarse filter is installed in front of the hidden tank, which traps solid particles, due to which, in most cases, leakage occurs.
How to choose the right plumbing?
When choosing a toilet, attention is paid to the following.
- Mounting method: monoblocks, compact and separate toilets. The choice is made taking into account the size of the room, design and laboriousness of the tank maintenance.
- Fittings. Most parts with low strength and reliability are made of plastic.
- The presence of positive reviews, a well-known manufacturer, a guarantee and a certificate.
Any toilet cistern, in terms of plumbing equipment, is a part of the toilet that is necessary to maintain a certain water level. The water accumulated in the device is used for flushing, and the built-in mechanism is responsible for dosing the flush and limiting the filling of the container.
A significant part of modern tanks are equipped with a push-button system. One or two buttons are quite often characterized by interchangeability without sacrificing performance. How does a toilet cistern with a button or two work?
The action of any tank is based on the functioning of the water intake and drain systems. The recruitment is due to the work of the intake system, which regulates the progressive filling. The inlet, regardless of the type of drainage equipment, is of the same type and consists of a float that allows you to adjust the intensity of filling the system with water.
In the process of draining the water, other valves are used to control this process. This design is variable. Defined positions of the outlet fittings make it possible use dual mode and emergency drain.
With one button
You can see a diagram of a toilet with a button in this illustration:
The opening process of the ball valve is regulated by a plastic or metal float, which facilitates the flow of water into the tank. The volume of incoming water is controlled by a diaphragm, which is equipped with a special lever device that regulates the pressure of the water jet.
The drain is regulated by a siphon, the location of which is the central part. To fix the siphon to the outlet system, a “saddle” is used. A drain button is fixed on top of the entire structure.
The standard siphon can be provided with a split design that allows only clean the upper part, and the bottom is simply rinsed.
With two buttons
Invisible elements of the two-button system are presented plug, float valve and drain fittings... The visible part of the structure includes a cover and buttons.
The two-button cistern is different high level of efficiency... Water consumption is reduced due to the possibility to provide a minimum drainage or completely empty the volume.
An illiterate setting provokes the operation of two buttons as one, with the same drain volume. A properly installed mechanism is characterized by a small drain at the level of 2-4 liters, and about 6-8 liters of water is spent on a large drain.
The difference from the design of the toilet cistern with one button lies exclusively in the device of the outlet fittings.
It is impractical to install such fittings on small devices. Any hydraulic system of suitable size can be used if replacement is required.
The principle of the drain mechanism
The operation of this mechanism begins with pressing a button, which is associated with the internal elements of the drain system. Up to this point, the tank is already filled with water to the regulated level and the entire volume is held by means of a rubber bulb. This material contributes to a fairly snug fit to the saddle. Pressing a button induces a pull that repels the pear, from which the drain hole opens.
After returning the button to its original position, the pear, which is hollow and filled with air, does not immediately return to its place. As it fills with water the pear becomes heavier, lowers and fits tightly on the saddle... However, for the full functioning of the pear, a special pipe is important, which regulates the action of various forces on this rubber element.
Comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of both options
One-button drainage systems are categorized as most popular... Automatic two-button mechanisms are only gaining momentum in popularity.
The "small drain" hydraulic system is underestimated. However, modern types of tanks are equipped with a special element - a screw that makes the water, when falling down, rotate intensively and powerfully, which has a positive effect on the cleanliness of the toilet.
If desired, there is a need to purchase economical one-button flush tanks, in which the water consumption is controlled with aqua-stop construction... Efficiency is due to the alternation of presses: the first press contributes to the drain, and the second stops this process.
Flushing cisterns operating in a dual-mode drain allow you to save almost twenty cubic meters of water per year, which significantly affects the payment costs. True, it should be borne in mind that modern two-button mechanisms are more expensive than the classic one-button version, but all costs are quickly paid off.
The main disadvantage of two-button products is the need during the installation process to perform a number of rather complex adjusting and debugging works, which makes independent installation rather difficult.
Types of major breakdowns
The most frequent breakdowns during the operation of toilets occur in the process of failures in the functioning of the systems for recruiting and draining water. Imbalance contributes formation of leaks of varying intensity... Such problems are solved by replacing individual parts or the entire system kit.
It should be remembered that the durability of the inlet elements directly depends on the quality characteristics of the incoming water. Experienced professionals recommend installing filters.
Minor breakdowns include faulty buttons. In most cases, such failures can be eliminated flushing the membrane to remove blockage... This kind of manipulation belongs to the category of simple and can be easily performed independently.
In addition, the most common faults include:
- Inability to fill the tank.
All incoming water flows out through the drain or overflows through the internal overflow. This situation most often occurs when the pear does not fit snugly against the drain, or if the rubber part of this element is worn out.
In two-button systems, water can constantly flow out in the event of a gasket or membrane failure. If a leak is observed at the junction of the supply and reservoir, the most likely cause of the problem is damage to the sealing gasket. - The flush button of the toilet bowl does not work.
The problem may be caused by the disconnection of the lever mechanism of the flush tank with the button and the release of the hooks from the attachment points.
Malfunctions of devices with a bottom water supply are especially common., which may be due to the following circumstances:
- insufficient water pressure in the conditions of the installed diaphragm filling valve, stimulating a constant flow into the tank;
- wrong position of inlet fittingsin which the elements are in contact with the walls of the device;
- not adjusted or the position of the float is violatedcausing water to flow through the overflow pipe into the toilet bowl.
It is not advisable to carry out the most serious breakdowns on your own. Especially if there is a need to change the entire trigger system. A timely call to a plumber can save you from rather serious consequences and will certainly save time and effort.
It is impossible to imagine a home without a well-equipped bathroom. And the main thing in it is a toilet with a cistern.
A toilet cistern is an integral part of this plumbing device, without which it simply loses the meaning of its purpose. The insides of the toilet cistern allow you to remove human waste products by supplying a metered portion of water and refill the container.
The importance of this plumbing equipment in the toilet can be fully appreciated only when the toilet is broken and it is impossible to use it.
Drain tank - internal structure
In the process of improvement, many designs of these products were developed and applied. By location, waste tanks can be classified as follows:
- Upper - located at a height of approximately one and a half meters above the toilet bowl, water is supplied through the pipe after exposure to the hanging handle. By pulling on it, the drain valve is opened, and a portion of water enters the bowl.
- Hidden... The container is placed in a niche, which is arranged in the wall of the room. With this option, the start button is located on the vertical plane of the partition (door). They are usually made of plastic.
- Compact the cistern is attached directly to the toilet bowl. For this, it has a special shelf with holes. Fastening is done with screw parts, for earthenware they are made of plastic.
Toilet cisterns can be made from various materials:
- Cast iron... Castings made from this material are the original methods of manufacturing toilet cisterns. Currently, their use is not relevant, but the demand still remains, therefore they are still being produced. Cast iron products are often decorated with decorative castings. The material itself is durable and reliable. (See photo 2.)
- Ceramics... The most popular material for the production of sanitary ware at the present time. The products are durable enough with a clean smooth surface that is easy to wash and clean. It is not recommended to use powders and pastes with abrasives for this.
- Plastic... These plumbing fixtures are made by stamping from various polymers. The advantage is high manufacturing precision, when mechanical reworking is practically not required.
Products made of polymer materials are used, as a rule, for concealed installation, therefore their width is smaller than that of products made of other materials.
Internal structure of the drain tank
When installing a new toilet with a cistern, the first thing to look out for is this is the completeness of the purchased equipment and its size... If the state of the bowl is determined purely visually in order to establish its integrity, then the drain device is worthy of closer attention. It not only needs to be installed correctly, but also needs to be configured to work optimally. This can result in substantial savings in water consumption.
Today, the building materials market is filled with a mass of different products in terms of material and internal filling. If you wish, you can also find plumbing of outdated designs, if you need one.
The design of the internal arrangement of the flushing cisterns is practically the same with a slight difference between different suppliers:
- Mechanisms including a stop button. The water will be drained until it is pressed or the entire volume drains out. If you release the button earlier as you clean the toilet bowl, the liquid stops flowing into it.
- Drainage devices with two buttons. When one of them is pressed, the entire volume of water is poured, and when using the second, part of the liquid is poured out, depending on the flow rate adjustment. The buttons cannot be confused - they are of different sizes. They appeared on the market relatively recently and this is due to the need to save water resources and, as a result, own money.
- Two-mode drain mechanisms.
The tanks also differ in the nature of the flush:
- straight - while water flows into the bowl directly from the tank, in one direction;
- the opposite - when flushed, water can change the direction of the inflow, which cleans the toilet bowl more efficiently, although this creates noise.
The typical layout of the toilet cistern resembles an ordinary water seal, which includes a float and a system of levers. When using a button or pull rod (for rod mechanisms), water flows from top to bottom, cleaning the toilet bowl.
In this case, the float goes down and, through a system of levers, opens the inlet valve through which water from the water supply network enters the container, filling it for subsequent use.
The interior for the cistern includes:
- Inlet valve.
- Float.
- Siphon.
- A system of levers for moving parts and components of the mechanism.
Inlet valve
This assembly from various manufacturers is represented by many design solutions, but the essence is the same for all: it is a motorized valve on the water supply system, operating under the influence of force from a float.
When the float is lowered, the piston opens and water flows through the pipe into the tank.
As it fills, the float rises up and levers the piston outward, gradually blocking the nozzle. In this case, the water flows more and more slowly and with a complete overlap of the section, its flow into the container stops.
Float
This product is a rubber or plastic container, the purpose of which, as the name suggests, is to float. At the same time, through a metal lever it opens and closes the intake valve.
Siphon
This is a device for the salvo discharge of water from the tank into the toilet bowl. The siphon for the toilet cistern is activated by pressing the flush button, as a result of which a vacuum is created in the air chamber.
Under its influence, water is actively pumped out of the tank until it is completely empty.
Overflow device - common breakdowns and repairs
It is normal to fill the tank to 80% of the total capacity. This is achieved by adjusting the inlet valve, or rather the position of the float.
However, situations arise when a malfunction occurs in the operation of the locking device and the toilet tank overflows. In this case, overflow of the container is inevitable and water spills onto the floor.
To avoid such a situation, an overflow pipe is installed in the container, which goes into the drain. When the liquid level rises above the norm, it flows through the pipe into the drain, preventing flooding of the room.
Watch the video
However, such a situation, when water flows out of the tank without stopping, is a sign of a malfunction and a reason for immediate intervention to eliminate it. Given the current trends in the production of plumbing, most likely, it is not necessary to restore the functionality of a broken unit, but it is necessary to replace it completely.
But the replaced unit still has to be disassembled in order to understand why it failed and eliminate the cause. For example, install an internal fine (coarse) filter at the inlet to the tank.
Another reason for the constant spillage of water can be a violation of the tightness of the locking mechanism due to wear of the gasket. It just needs to be replaced.
In general, water leakage into the toilet is a typical breakdown of this device. One of the reasons may be damage or wear of the insides of the siphon membrane of the drain tank. With such a malfunction, the siphon membrane will need to be replaced, and this can be done in the following sequence:
- Empty the container. To prevent filling the container through the inlet valve, the float must be fixed in the upper position in some way, but it is better to shut off the ball valve on the water pipe outlet.
- Unscrew the nut that secures the drain pipe.
- Loosen the siphon nut located at the base at the outlet from the container.
- Disconnect the siphon from the fluid drain lever and remove it.
- Remove the diaphragm and replace it with a similar one.
- Assemble the mechanism in the reverse order.
During work, it is necessary to inspect and other insides for the toilet and fix it where necessary. At the end of the work, you need to fill the tank and make several test drains of water to make sure that the malfunction has been eliminated.
It is also necessary to check all joints in the system for leaks. If any are found, take measures to eliminate them. When this fails, it is necessary to invite a qualified plumber to fix the leaks.
What to do if the toilet tank does not fill
Watch the video - what to do if water is not collected
This is one of the typical faults of the toilet flush system. If it occurs, do not run to the store for a new tank. Let's try to figure out the situation on our own, using the following algorithm.
- Remove the cover.
- Check the position of the float. In some cases, the cause of the malfunction is its distortion, which prevents movement inside the container. It is necessary to restore the position, fill the tank and make a test drain of the fluid.
- Check for water in the plumbing system on other consoles.
- Turn off the tap at the inlet and unscrew the connection hose. Check to make sure it is not clogged.
- Inspect the hole in the intake valve body, if necessary, clean it from contamination with a nail or elastic wire.
- Check the piston stroke, if it is tight, it is necessary to remove and clean the surface of this part, achieving free movement in the housing.
Upon completion of these works, it is necessary to assemble the system back and make a test filling of the tank two or three times. This is usually sufficient to fix the problem. If the container still does not fill, you will have to visit a plumbing store and buy a new valve.
Installation is in the reverse order. At the same time, we advise you to buy and install filters for purifying tap water and install them immediately after the water tap.
Establishing the fact that the toilet cistern has broken should not shock a person. Most faults can be fixed by hand. If this fails, call the emergency services - for a fee, they can easily fix any problem.
Installation and replacement of fittings
"Nothing lasts forever under the moon", this fully applies to flush devices for toilet bowls. Sooner or later, you have to start replacing the fittings, that is, the internal structure of the tank. When deciding to do the work with your own hands, you need to take into account a number of circumstances:
- The very need for replacement implies a significant service life of your device. Therefore, when going to buy internals, you need to at least roughly know the age of the device.
- There are many plumbing manufacturers and each of them brings its own design features to the device. Therefore, you also need to know the author of the product.
- The need to repair and do it yourself requires certain knowledge and skills, as well as the presence of a special tool.
Installation of the insides of the cistern is a painstaking work, comparable to assembling a new product, so you need to treat it as carefully and responsibly as possible. Otherwise, leaks may form, the elimination of which is very troublesome.
Video - reinforcement replacement
It should be remembered that the inside of the tank can be quite complex and fragile structures, the breakdown of which, if incorrectly installed, is very likely.
The difference in the internals of fittings from different manufacturers may depend on the method of water supply. There are such features.
- Lateral fluid supply provides for the location of the insides in the upper part of the tank, which is typical for domestic products. This system is the most economical, but the fluid supply is accompanied by noticeable noise. In more prestigious models, water is supplied through a tube, the end of which is lowered to the bottom and the filling is done quietly.
- A device for supplying water from below is most often found on models of foreign production, but recently it has also been found on domestic products.
Drainage devices are triggered when pulling the lever up or when pressing the button, which can be two for different dosage of water when flushing.
What principles should be followed when repairing
Watch the video - internal structure and principle of operation
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the equipment. This means performing the following activities:
- It is necessary to turn off the tap on the water pipe in front of the inlet valve.
- Remove the cover. You may need to unscrew the button-shaped latch for this, usually located on the left side of the container. Unscrew the retaining screw and remove the cover, gaining access to the inside of the tank.
- Inspect fittings for worn or broken parts.
Inside the filling fitting is a diaphragm valve or piston plug. Any of these versions are sensitive to finely dispersed contaminants that are always present in tap water.
Deposited on the walls of pipes and any surfaces with which it comes into contact, these impurities impede the operation of the valve mechanisms. The structure of this deposit is very strong and can only be removed mechanically.
If no filtering devices are installed on the inlet pipe, periodic replacement of the fittings is inevitable. You can abandon the push-button drain mechanism in favor of a rod one.
To install a new mechanism in the tank, you must first remove the old one. This can be done by turning it clockwise until it is completely disengaged. In this case, excessive efforts should not be used; if the attachment point breaks, it will be problematic to remove it.
New fittings must match the tank in size, you need to pay attention to this when buying.
Watch the video
It is also necessary to pay attention to the correct installation of the sealing elements - gaskets. Their misalignment can lead to additional loads and, over time, to the formation of cracks in the case, which is detrimental to ceramic products.
When installing fasteners, excessive forces should not be applied to it, so as not to create additional loads.
Installing the inside of the tank does not seem like a complicated operation. It is quite possible to do it yourself.
Conclusion
The main requirement for the operation of such plumbing products is constant supervision of their work. Any deviation from the norm indicates certain changes in the filling of the device and you need to clearly understand the consequences of such changes.
The most dangerous phenomena are situations when water overflows above the permissible level. This is fraught with the flooding of neighbors from below and real considerable costs to eliminate the consequences.
Watch the video
Currently, devices for connecting the toilet directly to the water supply have appeared on the plumbing market. This eliminates the need for a tank as such. One should think that the future belongs to products of this kind.
Washing machines have long become indispensable household appliances for most people. But in order for them to perform their functions, and uninterruptedly and in full, it is necessary to ensure the possibility of draining the contaminated water.
The easiest way to do this is to use the supplied hose. However, it is more practical to use a washing machine siphon, which will provide a number of important advantages. We will tell you how to select and install an important and convenient sewer device.
The process of removing contaminated water after washing must be organized correctly. For this, an important device called a siphon is used, which is able to continuously drain any required amount of liquid.
Moreover, simultaneously with such an operation, a number of important tasks are performed, including:
- Prevention of odors, gases from the sewage system entering the premises. This is achieved by using a water seal, which is a water plug that completely closes the desired section of the pipe along the entire diameter. Moreover, this structural element performs its functions even when the washing machine is not used for a long time.
- Elimination of the formation of plugs in the drainage system, and if it did happen, then the siphon design will provide an easy and prompt cleaning procedure.
In addition, many siphons are capable of filtering large particles of debris. This further helps to prevent the possibility of a clogging of the sewer requiring. Still, such a solution can save valuable items forgotten in the pockets of any washable items.
Any siphon for draining / draining water from the washing machine is a plastic or metal structure with a water seal that prevents odors from entering the home
An important function is also considered to reduce the load on, which prolongs its resource, and significantly. Do I have to use it?
The washing machine comes with a drain hose with a bend forming device. It can replace the siphon, because prevents backflow of waste water, but at the same time contaminated liquid gradually spoils the enamel shell of the bathtub, sink or toilet
Modern washing machines are equipped with drain hoses that can easily replace a siphon. The advantage of this method of water drainage is ease of installation and operation.
Since all that needs to be done to prepare for the draining procedure is to bring the hose into the bathroom, sink, toilet bowl. Such a device is attached using a curved element - a holder attached to the hose.
If this method has only one advantages, then there are more disadvantages and they are more significant. So, if the hose is not connected to the sewer pipe, then the hose will have to be bent into an S or U-shape.
The siphon does not have to be specialized, that is, a product for washing, a dishwasher, which has an additional pipe for draining from the machine, can ensure the discharge of contaminated water
As a result, the thin-walled corrugated product will be constantly under load. Which often leads to a violation of its tightness and corresponding problems. And by abandoning the water seal, the owner of the washing machine risks saturating his home.
Often the distance from the washing machine to the outlet of the sewer pipe is impressive, and it is not possible to lay the drain hose correctly, that is, with a slope. As a result, the load on the pump increases significantly, which will lead to its premature failure.
When connecting a drain hose with a water seal formed by a pipe bend, it is necessary to provide a slope to improve the flow of water into the sewer
In addition, if there is a shortage of the length of the existing hose, it is increased with the help of an additional piece of the same product and a coupling. This also leads to an increase in resistance, which means an increase in the load on the pump.
Additional joints of all parts of the drain hose are not reliable and durable enough. As a result, a leak can start at any time.
Although drain hoses are inexpensive and easy to replace, fear of harming themselves or their neighbors should deter washing machine owners from constantly using a hose, especially a wrongly routed hose, instead of a siphon.
Due to the listed significant disadvantages, the use of a drain hose can only be a temporary solution. And it will be possible to properly organize the drain by connecting the washing machine to the nearest sewer pipe. If it is far away, then it should be lengthened.
To connect the hose to the pipe, you must purchase a rubber cuff, which levels the difference in the diameters of these products. In addition, it is possible to achieve the desired tightness of the connection. In this case, the requirements of the instructions supplied with the washing machine should be observed.
The laying of sewer pipes in a hidden way is carried out quite rarely here, because building codes require free access to communications. However, the location of the connection point to the sewer behind a false wall is quite possible.
All of the above testifies that you can do without a siphon designed for, but this will not be the most practical and best solution.
Device selection guidelines
It is difficult to choose drain fittings only because of the low awareness of potential buyers with this type of equipment. But it is not difficult to fix this, since there are only a few of its types, which greatly simplifies the task.
The video will acquaint you with the typical types of siphons used when connecting washing machines:
These include the following siphons:
- outdoor;
- internal;
- combined.
Since each of the types has its own advantages and disadvantages, an interested person should familiarize himself with them in more detail. This will help save time and money when shopping.
The built-in version of the siphon is installed in the wall. The product usually comes with an external decorative panel to hide the installation location
Inexpensive and extremely unsightly
Usually external siphons are used if a fairly large distance separates the washing machine and the nearest sewer. That makes it possible to carry out installation in a convenient place and use for this purpose constructively simple products that are not distinguished by compactness or other technical delights.
An external siphon is used when there is no need to save space, and its unsightly features are not striking, for example, if it is hidden behind the washing machine itself, the bathroom
The disadvantages include the fact that external siphons do not make it possible to install existing washing machines close to the walls of a person. Therefore, in some cases, insufficient compactness can also be considered a minus.
Convenient and not cheap models
A feature of all internal siphons is their small dimensions and the fact that they are mounted inside the wall, for which special recesses are made. The above allows you to install washing machines close to any wall of the room.
In addition, the interior siphons are highly aesthetic. Their body is recessed into a pre-made cavity, and the outer part is covered with a decorative panel, which can be metal or plastic. Therefore, only the compact nipple bent at 90 ° C can be seen from the entire structure.
The use of a built-in siphon allows to completely hide the aesthetically unattractive parts. Outside there is only a coupling or a hose connection
The disadvantages of internal siphons are relatively complex installation and considerable, in comparison with other types, its cost. In addition, they are much more difficult to dismantle, which causes some inconvenience when cleaning is necessary.
Universal combined option
Visually aligned siphons do not differ from ordinary ones with the exception of just one moment. This is the presence in the structure of several fittings designed for the simultaneous connection of drain hoses belonging to different objects.
Such a product is versatile, therefore it is used for the simultaneous removal of contaminated water from washing machines, washbasins, kitchen sinks, dishwashers.
How to install a combined siphon is described in the following video, and it also indicates the advantages and disadvantages of this method of connecting to the sewer:
Differences in size and shape
For ease of use, all modern drain fittings differ in shape and size. This is done to ensure the desired performance, efficiency, prevent clogging, ease of installation, provide sufficient aesthetic qualities, and other issues.
Siphons for the arrangement of sewage systems are now produced in a wide range, allowing you to supply all points of connection of plumbing and household equipment to the sewer with a water seal
Therefore, if a potential buyer needs to save space when installing a washing machine, then you should pay attention to flat siphons. They have the most compact dimensions.
As a result, it is easy to place the purchased washing machine under the existing washbasin. Which is an effective solution, especially in small bathrooms. This type of installation can be an interesting design solution if a person chooses a matching household appliance and sink.
The option of installing the washing machine under the sink requires the use of a special flat type of siphon, to which it is also possible to connect the drain of the washing machine
Devices with non-return valves
Although modern siphons successfully resist clogging, the formation of plugs, anything can happen. Therefore, the buyer should take care of an additional degree of protection.
For these purposes, a siphon for the purchased washing machine with a built-in non-return valve is used. It is designed to address a number of important safety concerns.
Which include:
- Prevention of the return of contaminated water in the formation of plugs in the sewer pipes.
- Elimination of unauthorized drainage of water during the washing process.
The presence of this valve is especially important for residents of the lower floors of houses. Since they are most affected by blockages in sewer systems.
The check valve is extremely simple in design, but its use allows you to avoid the unpleasant phenomena of the reverse flow of dirty liquid into the pipes connected to the siphon
At the same time, a potential buyer of this type of siphon should pay attention to the fact that many washing machines are supplied with check valves already equipped. Therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary spending, this issue must be clarified in advance.
Preparation for the purchase of fittings
Any type of siphon can be used to organize an efficient washing process. The main thing is to take into account ease of installation, use and aesthetic qualities. If the washing machine is located far from the siphon, and the question of saving space is not worth it, then you can buy any of its varieties.
It is ideal when the drain fittings are hidden from view by something - a bathroom, a sink, a door, furniture, or any other object. If the shape of the siphon "hurts the eye", does not add aesthetics to the room, and besides there is no way to hide it, then it is necessary to purchase a built-in product.
This solution will allow you to put the washing machine close to any wall the owner needs, to hide the drain fittings. This option will significantly improve the appearance of the room.
The combined siphon is the most versatile solution, as it allows you to connect any number of drain hoses to the sewer pipe
When installation underneath is planned, then it will be correct to purchase a flat siphon. It takes up a minimum amount of space, so it will easily allow you to complete your plan.
If a potential buyer plans to drain contaminated water simultaneously with 2-3 types of equipment, then the optimal solution would be to purchase a combined siphon with the required number of fittings for connecting drain hoses.
In the absence of a check valve in the design of the washing machine, you should not save money on its purchase. The owner will not regularly benefit from it, but in a critical situation this product will save you from significant troubles and losses.
A flat siphon is the best option when the owner of the washing machine needs to save space in the bathroom or other room.
There is no need to save on the quality of the siphon itself, its components. Since their service life is always relatively short, and budget options remain operational for an even shorter period of time.
Installing the Purchased Product
When installing the siphon yourself, you should always take into account a number of mandatory rules. Otherwise, it will not be possible to organize effective drainage of contaminated water, and this will also affect the performance of the washing machine.
The following points apply to the mandatory installation rules:
- the siphon must not be installed higher than 80 cm from the level at which the washing machine is located - non-compliance entails a heavy load on the pumping device, which leads to its rapid wear;
- it is not necessary to lengthen the drain hose, this solution will again lead to a significant increase in the load on the washing machine pump.
If, nevertheless, it was necessary to perform an extension, then this should be considered as a temporary solution. The drain hose does not need to be thrown onto the floor, as the pump will have to exert even more extra effort to perform its function.
Therefore, the best way to solve the problem with the length will be to connect the sewer pipe to the required distance.
Installation of any siphon is a simple operation, but this only applies to a situation when all preparatory work has been completed, and communications are connected
If this is not possible, then the hose should be laid along the wall with the required slope in order to ensure the gravity of water. In this case, the permissible loads will act on the pump, which means that the service life will not be reduced.
If you want to install the purchased siphon yourself, then you need to understand that this will be a simple operation only if the sewer pipes, sinks, a washing machine, etc. are installed and connected. And the necessary preparatory work was done, for example, a recess was made in the wall for a built-in siphon.
The installation and connection of the washing machine must be carried out in strict accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer, the exact recommendations of which are given in the technical documentation for the product (+)
Additionally, you need to take into account a number of features. For example, if the mentioned internal siphon is installed, and tiles are used to decorate the walls of the bathroom, then the cladding is first performed. And only then the place for the drain fittings is chosen. Since work in this sequence will allow you to get higher aesthetic qualities.
If any of the above conditions are not met, then essential knowledge and special tools will be required for installation. Which makes the capabilities of an unprepared person limited.
Mistakes are often made that lead to financial losses. This indicates the need to use the services of masters for complex work on the wiring of communications and other things.
The drain pipe from the washing machine must be connected to the sewer system at a strictly defined height, which may differ slightly depending on the brand of the machine, more precisely, on the power of the drain pump
Nevertheless, the usual replacement of the siphon or simply installation is quite simple to perform. For which it is necessary to connect the product to the sewer pipe, and then bring the drain hose.
New gaskets should be used to ensure proper tightness. And after dismantling the old siphon from the sewer pipe, it is necessary to remove traces of contamination from the hose.
After completing the installation procedure, you should carefully check the tightening of all existing clamps, bolts, and other fasteners. Next, you need to drain the contaminated water in test mode.
Why is toilet paper placed under the siphon - such a simple solution will reveal even minimal leakage, which is not always possible to do visually. Therefore, verification should be carried out only using the specified control method.
If a combined type of drain fittings is used, then it is worthwhile to simultaneously drain from all the equipment used. This will allow you to check the tightness and performance at maximum load.
This is how the drain hose is mounted to the sewer pipe if there is a desire to save money on a siphon, although this is not the best solution
If testing did not find a siphon leakage to drain the contaminated liquid from the washing machine, then the owner can proceed to its normal use. And without any restrictions.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
You can get acquainted with all existing types of siphons by watching the following video:
To choose the best version of the siphon, which makes it possible to drain contaminated water from washing machines uninterruptedly for a long time, it is enough to have a small stock of knowledge.
Since only a few types of drain fittings are produced and used by the owners of washing machines, which is quite enough to meet all needs. And also, you should never forget that the siphon must be installed correctly.
Tell us about how you chose and installed a siphon with a branch pipe for draining dirty water from a washing machine. Share valuable insights on the topic of the article. Please leave comments in the block form below, post a photo and ask questions on points of interest.
When installing a brand new washing machine in his apartment or private house, each owner is worried about how to properly connect it to communications. And if we have already written about how to connect the machine to the water supply, now it's time to consider connecting the washing machine to the sewer.
The safest technology is to connect the drain hose directly to the drain. The process takes effort and time, but we will tell you in detail how to properly connect the drain hose of the washing machine.
Washing machine connection: preparation
Any work related to technology requires serious and thorough preparation. And connecting the washing machine to the sewer is no exception.
If the washer is old and you just reinstall it after moving, then you will have to buy something in addition. Some accessories are included with new machines.
Preparation includes three stages:
- Decide on a place. It can be a bathroom - you must agree, it is convenient, since the drain is very close. A kitchen is also suitable, as the sink and drain are within reach. In rare cases, it is a hallway, when there is very little space in the kitchen or bathroom.
- Prepare your tools. You may need all or part of the list below:
- Screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips, of different sizes (it is better to take a universal screwdriver with nozzles).
- If you have to cut into a pipe, then a special pipe cutter will not interfere.
- Welding for multilayer pipes.
- Siphon for connecting the washing machine to the sewer. Suitable for both conventional and non-return valve.
- Plastic tee.
- Sealant.
- Rubber seals.
- Corrugated hose of the correct length for draining the water (buy a new one or lengthen if the manufacturer provided is not enough).
Important! The drain hose should not exceed three meters in length, so as not to overload the drain pump.
Remove the transit bolts holding the tank in a fixed position. Unscrew them from the back panel and close with caps. 
After going through all three steps, you can start connecting the drain hose of the washing machine.
Options for connecting the machine to the sewer
There are three most common options, let's consider them.
Through a siphon
Before connecting the washing machine to the sewer, you need to start installing a siphon on the sink. If the siphon does not have one more outlet for the equipment, then then you will need a tee.
But there is one drawback! If you connect the washing machine in this way, then a not very pleasant smell from the sewer pipe can get a drum. 
To avoid this, your task is to take care of creating a so-called "air barrier" in the siphon.
Examine the siphon - on it you will find a small hole for a corrugated pipe. This pipe is bent so that when the water stagnates, a "plug" appears in the bend. It is this cork that does not let sewer aromas into your machine.
Such a scheme does not complicate the draining of water, and the plug is "updated" during each descent of waste water into the sewer system.
Through a siphon with a non-return valve
If you have purchased a siphon with a check valve, you can be sure that the washing machine is protected not only from odors, but also from contaminated water. With it, the drain will be much more effective.
When a blockage occurs in an ordinary siphon, the waste water returns to the machine on its own - the so-called "self-draining" process takes place. To protect the machine from this, it is worth choosing a siphon with a valve.
Attention! After installing the siphon, connect the hose to the corresponding branch using a clamp.
Without siphon
It happens that the connection takes place without a siphon - directly to the sewer pipe. For such a case, you will need to buy an adapter seal ring. It allows you to insert a thin hose into a fairly wide opening. The method is more complicated, but it will be relevant in two cases:
- There is no sink in the room.
- The machine is positioned further than two meters from the sink siphon.
In the photo you can see a visual demonstration of how to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer system without using an adapter siphon tube. It also shows how to connect the CMA via a siphon.
In any case, no matter how you organize the outlet of the washing machine - through a siphon or directly to the pipe, take into account the distance between the drain point and the floor. The point at which the end of the hose should be located according to all the rules must be at least 50 cm above the floor and no more than 1 m.
Of course, the numbers may vary, given the power of the pump: the more powerful the pump, the greater the deviations from the norm.
The considered withdrawal methods are considered one of the most reliable. They will protect your home from leaks, and the aesthetic issue has been resolved - the hose is neatly hidden behind a typewriter or in a kitchen set. Simple, harmonious, reliable.
Other ways to connect the washing machine to the sewer
But there are also not quite traditional ways to connect the washing machine - they are extremely simple.
You can put the hose over:
All you need in this case is a small plastic hook with snaps to hold the hose. 
The method, although simple, cannot be called reliable. Here are a number of disadvantages you may encounter when choosing it:
- If the water pressure is too strong, the hose may come off and water will spill onto the floor. The hose is so loose that it can be ripped off with a careless movement. Children or pets can also "help" him to fall.
- After each wash cycle, the bathroom, toilet or sink needs to be cleaned and washed.
- Aesthetics is out of the question. Washing dishes where the water has just drained after washing is at least not very hygienic.
Please note! If such a drain suits you, then do not buy a hose longer than 4 meters. If the hose is too long, not all of the water will drain, but will remain in the tube, dissipating unpleasant odors.
Now that you know all the schemes for connecting the machine to the sewer pipe, it remains only to choose the appropriate method and easily organize the drain. If you go the traditional way, do not skimp on components, and then your washing machine will thank you for years of flawless and trouble-free operation.
And the video will help you do everything right: