The better attach a bar to the concrete wall. Fastening a wooden bar to a brick wall with their own hands: -Instructions how to fix jumpers, crates, supporting beams, photos and price

Wooden timber - practical building material. Low price, low heat loss, low weight and simplicity of installation of a house from a bar make this material very sought-after. However, fasten the timber on the foundation is not so simple, because the tree is not glued to the concrete and do not weld to the metal. In this article we will tell about how the timber is attached to various foundations, which pay attention and what errors are allowed.

Types of foundations for a house from a bar

Waterproofing

The lower bar, as well as the wooden woodscreen, it is necessary to protectively protect against water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creativity or other than effective (and most often smelling) substances. If there is no possibility to treat Scarlet or lower bar with heavy fractions of oils, it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron / concrete woodwork and the bar need to be laid at least 2 layers of the rubberoid. This material that falls out when the temperature drops. After all, in the morning the air temperature is growing, and the temperature of the foundation or woodwork remains unchanged. If you are using Wooden Scarlet, the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. It will protect the wall from dampness and prevents the appearance of mold and rot.

What kind of attachment is better

Choosing a fastening method, consider the following factors:

humidity of timber;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening wet (over 16%), only the shrinkage compensators must be used to the wooden wrought-up. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, the bar is high and especially natural humidity, gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. For fastening a bar of high or natural moisture to a wooden painter, it is necessary to use the analogue of the shrinkage compensator, only made not from the screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same way can be used when installing a bar on threaded studs. Instead of nut and washers, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where strong and long rains go in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use the lower ram with humidity not higher than 12%, to process it with the most efficient hydraulic protection and set to the maximum rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire design. The same approach must be applied in those regions where the wind speed often exceeds 20 meters per second. The neglect of the rigid fastening in the seismic or windy regions will lead to the fact that the fastening under the influence of external factors will break out and the house will begin to swing. Disranged by shrinkage compensators when working with a natural and high humidity bar, as well as in regions with frequent and strong seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the bustling crown and the foundation or painter.

The bar at one time was one of the most popular building materials that was used in construction. However, in recent times, it began to be experimenting more often as an auxiliary element, combining with the latest developments or other mounting systems.

That is why the question of how to fasten the timber with their own hands on a different surface, is very popular with beginner builders.

Types of mountage

At the moment there is a mass of various fasteners, thanks to which you can produce any connection of different elements. All of them differ in their technical specifications and applications. At the same time, the installation instructions clearly regulates their use when working with a timber is made.

Corner

In such cases, the timber is mounted into the wall in its manufacture:

For this, the material is first treated with moisture protection impregnation, which not only protects it, but also increases adhesion.
Next, it is installed on the masonry in the place where it is planned to be installed.
Then continue to build the wall with the cluttered material.

It is worth noting that this method is suitable as a mounting of a bar to concrete. In this case, it is used as an additional reinforcing element. If the design of the house assumes that the walls will be built out of the plates, then a concrete belt creates a concrete belt to organize overlapping and installing.

Roof

Considering the fact that the fastening of the lag to the wall of the house from the bar is made by connecting them through a carved lock and brackets, then many builders make a mistake that you can also organize docking and on the roof. However, this design implies a completely different approach, since has its own exploitation conditions.

First of all, it should be noted that the connection type of all roof elements should be developed in accordance with the project. They must withstand heavy loads and be strong enough. Therefore, not only nails and locks are used to fix them, but also a brackets.

A typical attachment of the rafter to the skate brue is performed by means of their installation at an angle of 45 degrees and the connection using the fastening element. Quite often, when creating the roof use bolted systems that can provide enhanced reliability and quality of all nodes. However, even when they are used, it is better to strengthen the design with brackets.

Currently there are a lot of different mounting elements for the implementation of all sorts of projects of such structures. They are sold in the form of finished products, and their price is quite accessible even for people with a small income.

Tip!
In the manufacture of the roof, you should not make changes to the project.
This can lead to a weakening of the design and reduce its life.

Suspension

Quite often, when finishing, the room arises the need to fasten the bar at a short distance from the ceiling. This may be associated with different design solutions or decor elements.

It is possible to carry out such a fastening of a bar to the concrete ceiling using special suspensions. They are acquired in specialized stores in accordance with the weight of the material that they will need to bear.

The suspension is fixed on the ceiling with shock dowels, and a special fastener is mounted on the bar. Next, combine both elements and result in the necessary connection. The height of the material is regulated by the suspension system, which allows fixing at the required level.

It is believed that this molding method is not reliable, but in practice it turns out that it can withstand significant loads. However, if this material is used only as a decor, then you can make the imitation of the timber to the wall, which will create the necessary effect without risk to fall on the head.

For such elements, there are their own fixation systems that are designed for a specific product. Usually they are supplied with the material itself.

Tip!
If it is possible to avoid this method of installation, then it needs to be used.
Usually builders just migrate such bars into the wall, and the suspensions are put to strengthen or beauty.

Output

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic. Also on the basis of the text, which is set out above, we can conclude that there is a lot of different principles. At the same time, they all have their own characteristic scope, features and durability.

During the construction, the question arises how to carry out the fastening of a wooden crate to the brick wall, as well as timber and other elements of wood. This use anchor, dowel, cement mortar. The option of fixing the wooden elements depends on what function they will perform and what weight should be kept. The moment of mount is also important: during construction, the boards come into the walls, and after - they are attached to it.

In what cases may be needed to fasten the board?

Faced the problem of installation of timber during work:

redevelopment and construction of new walls of wood;
installation of the door frame;
installation of mounted furniture;
an extension of the veranda;
construction of a visor over the entrance door;
warming at home.

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What tools are needed to attach the board to the brick wall?

A set of tools is determined by the type of fastening and functionality of wooden elements. When attaching a bar you need:

drill or perforator;
drills and borants;
a hammer;
roulette;
pencil;
dowel;
corners;
brackets;
nails;
screws;
self-tapping screws, etc.

The hole in the wall needs to be done using a drill.

In the brick wall with the help of drill gently drill the hole. While working, try not to expand it so that the brick is not cracked. A dowel is inserted into the opening, which, when screwing, will be thrown into the node and securely fixes. This option is suitable for hollow bricks. Further in the dowel screws screws. If the bar must withstand a large load, it is better to use an anchor.

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Molding methods for brick wall

Soft method

This way is easy and fast in work, but unreliable - it will not work for heavy loads. But for decorating and crates it is used. This method can be used without the help of outsiders, since it does not require construction skills. If you follow the instructions, the result will be satisfactory.

P-shaped metal brackets will be needed to perform fasteners. They are fixed on a brick with a distance of 40 cm. At the level of the floor from the floor between them, 60 cm is made. The more fasteners, the stronger the board holds. This will avoid cladding deformation. Under mechanical stress, the timber is loosened, and the design is broken. Therefore, when working is careful.

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Hard method

For a stronger fixation of the board, wooden corks are used.

This method is durable, reliable and will allow the design to serve for a long time. A hole is made in the brick, which is clogged with a wooden tube moistened. A nail is driven into a plug through a bar. This method allows you to securely secure the crate and does not allow its deformation. It is designed for a small load.

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Other methods

Fastening a bar to a brick wall is possible in other ways. To mount the mounted furniture, the board is applied to the wall horizontally and fasten with the help of self-tapping screws, nails, screws in prepared openings. To make the lockers withstand the load, the attachment points make a lot. For partitions, the same rules use the same rules, but fix it vertically. Fix the timber with anchors follows for structures with a large load. This method is suitable for the door box, the roof visors above the door.

Installation of a bar for an extension occurs during the room in the laying of the end of the beam. To do this, in the wall, the corresponding opening is selected. But this is possible with a thick wall in a half brick. If this is not, the design will be through, which is unacceptable. In this case, it will be necessary to use the support bar. It is attached to the anchors, by observing the distance of 30 cm. After which the beam is attached to the tree with the help of metal corners and self-tapping screws.

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Methods of fasteners

For a long-term history of construction work, a large number of ways to fasten wood to concrete were tested. Among the current and universally used methods, we note the use of specialized mounting adhesive compositions and the use of fastener hardware.

Consider the features of the implementation of these methods and find out what materials are optimal for such work.

The use of specialized adhesives

If a cutting of reinforced concrete diamond circles was carried out, and now the installation of small parts can be installed and by weight of wooden parts, you can use special mounting adhesives.

Properly selected adhesive composition allows reliably to fix not only baguettes or plinth, but also the lining on the staircase. However, it is necessary to understand that the assortment of adhesive compositions is wide, and therefore it follows to count on the optimal result only in the case of proper selection of the means.

If glue for concrete and wood is needed, pay attention to the following compositions:

Building glue "Liquid nails" - This is a relatively inexpensive and at the same time an effective solution for working with the materials you are interested in. "Liquid nails" and are presented on the market with several modifications, namely, "universal", "express", "supersyl", "especially durable", "for panels", etc.

If there is a question, how to attach a wooden bar to a concrete wall, the best choice will be particularly vicious and universal modification.

The universal type of glue "Liquid nails" is an excellent choice for use inside the interior. For example, with success, you successfully glue the wall panels from sawn timber to pre-cleaned and dedited concrete.

But if you are interested, then how to glue a tree to concrete at minus temperatures, you will need "liquid nails" especially strong with the force of setting up to 70 kg per 1 m². Such glue will keep wood even on uneven concrete at temperatures up -17 ° C.

Glue "Moment" - This is a wide range of various compositions with different technical and operational properties.

Of particular interest is the modification "Epoxylin", which is a two-component composition working with a wide range of materials including concrete and wood.

After drying, the composition not only reliably holds glued surfaces, but can also be observed or subjected to another mechanical processing without compromising clutch strength.

Another modification of the glue, by which you can connect concrete with wood, is the moment of the joiner. This tool has been widely used in the process of laying outdoor coatings made using sawn timber.

Mounting foam - not bad option for simple and efficient gluing

If necessary, as glue, you can apply the mounting foam of increased strength. This is a good solution for flooring floor wooden coatings, mounting windowsill, wall panels, etc.

This method of connecting two surfaces is characterized by a number of advantages, among which:

affordable price, in comparison with other adhesive compositions;
high compound strength after complete drying;
low degree of thermal conductivity, which is relevant when finishing floors and walls;
excellent sound insulation qualities;
hydrophobicity;
biological stability;
simple application instructions.

However, there is a significant disadvantage, namely a long-term drying of foam. And therefore, for 5 minutes, the glued part will have to hold in the desired position so that it does not move away from the surface.

Important: To ensure optimal contact of the glued surfaces and foam, they must be slightly moistened with water.

Preparing the surface of the key to success

Whatever of the above compositions you would not have chosen, before attaching a tree to concrete, both surfaces must be properly prepared. In order for the result of the installation work, there was a durable and durable compound, both surfaces should be as smooth, dusted and degreased.

The main problem is the porous structure of the material, especially if the diamond drilling of the holes in the concrete was carried out. This property is the cause of excessive absorption of adhesive compositions, and therefore the connection does not have time to dial due durability.

Make a concrete coating, predisposed to gluing easy, for this you need to reduce the number of pores. To do this, primers are used in deep penetration, which seep into the porous structure of the material and frozen there. As a result, the micropores are closed, and the density of the concrete allows you to apply glue.

Important: Print wooden parts to prepared concrete bases should be in strict accordance with the instructions of the adhesive manufacturer.

Fasteners with dowels

If you need a high-quality and durable fastening of a wooden pillar to concrete, ordinary glue or foam can not do. In this case, you can apply fastening metal products, designed for high mechanical loads.

You can attach heavy wooden parts by means of dowel-nails and anchor bolts. The principle of operation of these fasteners is similar, since after they fall into the concrete, their work part begins to cut. As a result, the fastening of wooden pillars to a concrete base is obtained very durable.

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Installation of timber for concrete base

To secure wooden slats on a concrete base, you need to perform the following steps. Initially, the timber is prepared, drilling holes in it under fasteners. Next, at the same distance we drill holes in the wall. For more accurate markup, you can applied to the surface of the wall already a drilled timber and apply marks on the available holes.

The drilling of concrete is carried out by a winning drill or drill with diamond spraying. It is better to use a drill with a perforator function. During the drill, the holes too heated drill are lowered during the water and cooled.

Further, wooden chops are clogged into the wall, the bar is applied and a nail is driven into each chop through it. In the next photo you can see how the mount for a concrete base looks. Carnate the rails from a tree to concrete can also be using anchors (in the photo below).

How to fix bars on brick

If the wall of the house is laid out of the brick, you should apply a slightly different installation technology. To do this, at a distance of a bar, we drill the holes with a drill on the tree, then change the drill to the winner. Having attached to the wall to the wall, through the drilled holes, we perform marking, anmative brick.

After removing the bar and drill holes in the brick wall of the required depth and width. At the same time, the drill is recommended to keep directly and not to break out, otherwise you can open the brick. You can mount the timber to the brick wall using dowels and screws. Anchor can also be used for the brick wall.

Features of the installation of wooden plates to aerated concrete

Recently, fuel-concrete blocks have often used to build houses and other buildings. They are easy to handle, so the building is built much faster. However, with a certain softness of aerated concrete, the features of the installation of bars on its surface are connected.

First of all, the choice of fasteners will depend on the magnitude of the future load on the bar. If the design is not loaded with a lot of weight, you can screw the screws or bolts of wedge-shaped in the blocks of aerated concrete. For this purpose, you can also use screws with threads along the entire length.

In order for the design to withstand fairly loads, steel or plastic dowels are used.

When choosing a fastener, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the aerated concrete blocks may eventually have a destructive effect on the metal. Therefore, before buying it is desirable to consult with the seller and find out all possible risks.

Installation of a wooden house wall

Quite often, during the construction of walls, the glued or profiled timber is also used. How do you need to mount the bar to the wall of the brusade house? Most often, perforated fasteners are used to connect wooden surfaces. It is possible to fasten them on the surface of the bar and walls using nails, screws or screws. Perforated fasteners are produced different types. To fasten the elements in the same plane, the plates are used if the mount must be carried out in different planes, the corners use.

If there is no long pressure on the design, you can use the mounting tape. Using nails for fastening wooden elements, you should adhere to a few simple rules. If nails have to clog in hard-to-reach places, you should use a bolt with a nut at the end. It is also necessary to choose the right length of nails.

So that the design is more stable, nails are clogged at a distance at a certain angle one to another. If the rails are made of wood, distinguished by high density, during the scoring of the middle of the nail to hold the passage. It will make it easier to drive out large nails pre-drilling holes.

How to properly mount bars to plasterboard

If the rails must be attached to the wall, plasterboard, installation is performed as follows. Due to a certain fragility of the material, nails and self-tapping screws are not recommended. As a rule, for reliable fixation of bars on drywall, nylon or metal anchors are chosen. They are screwed into the sheet and secured with the help of self-pressing.

This is the easiest way. A more stable fastening can provide drop-down anchors. Due to their special design, additional focus on the reverse side is ensured. Such anchor is inserted into the holes and tighten with a screwdriver until they fall completely.

You can also use conventional plastic dowels. To do this, drill a hole, insert a dowel, secure the timber with a screw. The rolled dowel will be able to emphasize from the back of the sheet.

To learn in detail about how to mount the bar to the wall, on the video below. As can be seen from the video, there is a sufficiently large number of ways to securely fasten the wooden structure.

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General principles

They, in general, do not differ in difficulty:

When installing any wooden structures on the foundation, a reliable waterproofing is needed on the border of two heterogeneous materials. Concrete with a violation of the foundation waterproofing is capable of ensuring the capillary sublicas of groundwater; Meanwhile, moisturizing is detrimental for wood;

Note: Different wood breeds in different ways tolerate long-term contact with moisture. That is why the lower strapping of the frame walls or the lower crowns of the church are trying to make from oak or larch - extremely resistant to rot and characterized by the highest mechanical strength.

Where there is a contact with water or wet air, wood is whether it is protected from dampness by impregnation with oil or oil compositions;
Antiseptic impregnation is required for all wooden building structures. It will not only protect the wood from the fungus, but also will scare the wood, and will reduce the flammability of the bar.

Methods of fastening

Lower strapping to the belt foundation

It is attached as follows:

The surface of the concrete is hydroizing. A minimum program - laying a pair of rubberoid layers; Ideally, it does not just be laid under the strapping bar, and glues to bitumen mastic;
In the bar of the strapping, grooves are selected for the connection in the trip. All connections must be on the attachment points to the foundation;
The bar is impregnated with an antiseptic and (ideally) protective waterproof impregnation. Usually in this role is the usual Olife;
The lower strapping is then sprinkled under the anchor bolts - at the points of connection of the segments of the bar and in direct areas in a step of no more than 1.5 meters. Holes are sprinkled under the washers and the nuts of the anchors;
Holes for anchors are placed and placed in concrete;
The last stage is the actual fastening. Anchors are driven into a concrete monolith through the holes in the bar, after which the nuts are tightened with the end key.

Wooden Scarlet to the Stated Foundation

Here the attachment algorithm is strongly reminiscent of the above; However, instead of anchor bolts, it is usually used in the erection of pillars in their masonry segments of a smooth or corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 14 mm.

The surface of the poles is hydroizing. The methods are similar to the above;
The bar selected holes for anchor;

Please note: in this case, the poles with anchors should have to all connections.

Scarlet is soaked with antiseptic soil and, if possible, a hydrophobic composition;
Then Ruralka is stacked on the poles, after which the side of the bar serves a part of the anchors is cut. Additional fixation of the frame to the columns, as a rule, does not apply: after the construction of the walls, it will be reliably pressed by their mass.

Mauerlat to Aropoyasu

In this case, the fastening of a wooden bar to a concrete wall is necessary in order to further encourage a solry system to it. Probably better concrete a description of the design.

As a rule, the walls of residential low-rise buildings are erected from lightweight materials with low thermal conductivity. Let us give a few examples:

All these materials have one common feature - low mechanical strength. They are able to provide sufficient carrying capacity due to the solid thickness of the walls; But it is impossible to securely secure the truck system or Mauerlat: any anchors will cut out the first strong impact of the wind.

The problem is solved by the fill at the top of the wall of the reinforced concrete armojois, which, in fact, becomes the basis for attaching Mauerlat.

Note: Armopois additionally increases the seismic resistance of the structure by tying adjacent walls. In areas with high seismicity, armoomas is replaced by the carrier armifarkas; Light materials are used only as filling walls.

The instruction on the installation of Mauerlat to Armopoyas is almost identical to the description of the bottom strapping on the belt foundation:

The surface of the reinforced concrete is hydroizing with bitumen mastic and / or rubberoid;
They are stacked by an antiseptic and olphoua timber, connected in the corners and splicing points in Polterev;
The timber is cracked in the corners and splicing points;
Holes are centered under the washers and the nuts of the anchors;
Under the anchors, holes in concrete are formed;
Anchors are driven, after which their nuts are pulled by a protadron key.

Door Box To Concrete Partition

How to attach the timber to the concrete wall, if we are talking about the door frame? This case has several differences from the previous ones:

Antiseptic impregnation and hydrophobization of the door frame are optional, since it will be operated in the dry air of the dwelling;
The waterproofing of the connection is also not needed: the humidity of the bar of the box and concrete does not differ;
Between the box and edges of the opening, as a rule, it remains a gap from 1 to 5-6 centimeters width.

The final fixation of the door in recent years is carried out by the only simple, fast and convenient way -lusantly fixed in the opening box is fought around the perimeter; After grapping the mounting foam, its excess is cut into a sharp knife.

Then the perimeter of the opening is sweeping with plaster, cement or acrylic putty - at least twice with intermediate grinding. The last stage is the fastening of platbands on both sides of the box or, with a significant depth of the opening, its trim plasterboard, wood, wall panels or laminate.

The main problem when installing the box is to ensure its reliable fixation to the gate: polyurethane foam when grasping expands and can jamble the door leaf.

Here are some relatively simple ways to securely secure the box of a bar with your own hands.

Use the mounting kit from the anchor screws with plastic dowels and steel linings per box. The linings are attracted to the bruus by ordinary self-drawing; Screws are screwed into the holes of the dowels breathed in the openings drilled in the opening. Then the heads of the screws are triggered in the pads of the lining and are clamped with a pair of nuts using a conventional horked key;

Instead of anchors, direct suspensions can be used for plasterboard ceilings. The suspension is attached to the wall, after which the beam fixes the box on both sides. Surplus perforated suspension is shaken; In the future, fasteners are closed by platbands;
Finally, the bar on which the door is hung can be fixed directly to concrete through a pair of wooden pads with ordinary anchor bolts, which will be hidden in the future. The second side of the box will fix the mounting foam after soaring. To prevent the door leafing to prevent the wooden clins inserted between it and the box.

Conclusion

We hope that the solutions we suggest will help the reader in the construction and repair of your own home. As usual, the attached video in this article will offer its attention to additional information. Successes!

rubankom.com.

Types of foundations for a house from a bar

All types of foundations for the house of a bar that are used for wooden house-building can be divided into two main categories:

with paintwork;
without scolding.

What is screery? The pile screw, and also the columnar foundations are performed in the form of individual elements, the distance between which is 1.5-3 meters. Before building a house on such a foundation, all poles or piles are needed to connect with each other, which will increase the overall strength and rigidity of the structure. For this purpose, and serves as Rollock. It is performed in the following options:

concrete;
metal;
wood.

To create a concrete woodwitch, make a formwork, which covers the entire perimeter of the house, and, if necessary, passes under the inner walls. Then the formwork is filled with reinforcement, which is welded or tied to the foundation fittings, after which the concrete is poured and compacted. In 25-30 days, Scarlet is ready for laying the first (bustling) crown. To create a metal screeching, a corner or a chaserler is used, which is placed on the foundation and weld to its reinforcement. Often, Scarret is made of two steel corners, which are placed in such a way that the boll is placed between them with tension. Corners weld to fittings or screw piles.

Wooden scarshell makes from a bar, whose cross section is slightly more than a bar walking on the walls. Before laying, this timber is dried to a humidity of less than 13% and treated with antiseptics based on heavy oils. Earlier for such treatment used creosote, now the spent machine oil is most often used. After the coating dries out, the woodrel is attached to the concrete using anchor bolts, and to the metal using P-shaped brackets or thick plates. Staples weld to screw piles so that the timber can be screwed to them with bolts and nuts. The P-shaped bracket is welded so that it is tightly covered by the timber.

Foundations that do not need woodwork include slab, ribbon and combined. The upper part of such a foundation is a smooth concrete surface.

Briefly, the fastening technology of the bar to concrete is described in the previous section. There are two ways to fasten the timber to concrete - with the help of imagine stoves in the foundation and with anchor bolts. The first way is more difficult, therefore requires high qualification of the designer and workers. The location of the spills is determined at the design stage, then, with an accuracy of 1 mm insert them into the formwork and weld to the reinforcement, then poured concrete. The groin bar is placed in accordance with the project and drill in it holes for studs with an accuracy of 1 mm. The size of the holes below corresponds to the stud, and on top of a slightly larger than the diameter of the washer. Then the bold bar is put on the studs and fasten with the washers and nuts.

For mounting with anchor bolts, the timber is placed on the foundation and determine the optimal places for the holes. If the bar is placed on a combined foundation, then half the holes are made in the center of piles or supports, and the second half is placed between the first. On the ribbon foundation of the holes, you can drill anywhere that corresponds to the central line of the bar and retreats from the edge or another opening by 70-150 millimeters. In most cases, anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm are used to attach a bar, so the lower part of the hole is made with a diameter of 13-14 mm. The upper part of the hole is made with a diameter of 20-30 mm, depending on the diameter of the washer. Then a winning drill with a diameter of 12 mm is drilled in the foundation, after which all holes are cleaned of dust. When all the holes are ready, the bar is put in place, insert and tighten the anchor bolts.

For fastening to a metallic screening, bolts and thick screws are used. If Screek is made from a channel, then bolts and screws are located vertically, if from two corners, then horizontally. Screeching is drilled for fastening with the help of screws (this can be done below, if the bar is laid in it, or from above, if the bar is not yet), then drill a hole in the bar. The diameter of the hole in the frame for 1-2 mm is larger than the diameter of the screw, and in the bar, on the contrary, 2-4 mm less. The fastening with a screw is easier to perform, but less reliable. To attach a bar with a bolt, a suitable hole is drilled in the frame. Then drill the timber. The diameter of the hole at the bottom of the bar is 1-2 mm more than the thickness of the bolt, and in the upper part of the bar the diameter is 1-2 mm more than the size of the washer. Then the puck is inserted into the hole and the bolt is inserted either from above, or below. In the scarlet of two corners, the bolt always put on the outside. Between the washer and bolt or nut put a suitable gown washer, which will prevent the connection attenuation.

How to attach a bar to a wooden painter

To attach the timber to the wooden painter, use wooden brazen or shrinkage compensators. To install wooden brazers in a bar and paintwork make a hole, the diameter of which on the shadow of a millimeter is less than the diameter of the heater. Wooden brazening must be treated with protective impregnations and only after that drive into the holes. The technology of installation of compensators is described in detail in the article Ship Squeeze Compensator from Bruus.

Waterproofing

The lower bar, as well as the wooden woodscreen, it is necessary to protectively protect against water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creativity or other than effective (and most often smelling) substances. If there is no possibility to treat Scarlet or lower bar with heavy fractions of oils, it is necessary to use less effective substances, and between the foundation or iron / concrete woodwork and the bar need to be laid at least 2 layers of the rubberoid. This material will protect the timber from condensate, which falls out when the temperature drops. After all, in the morning the air temperature is growing, and the temperature of the foundation or woodwork remains unchanged. If you are using Wooden Scarlet, the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. It will protect the wall from dampness and prevents the appearance of mold and rot.

What kind of attachment is better

Choosing a fastening method, consider the following factors:

humidity of timber;
climatic conditions;
seismic activity;
the strength of the most frequent winds.

For fastening wet (over 16%), only the shrinkage compensators must be used to the wooden wrought-up. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

aquagroup.ru.

In this article we will consider such a problem with which any person faced, it does not matter in the apartment or in his house. Each can need to fasten something to a concrete wall or hang something on it. But how to do that? Today we will tell you about it!

We attach a wooden bar to the concrete wall.

First, you prepare the timber, drills for the mounting element of the hole, and then prepare the wall where you plan to install the design.
1. The first thing drills the hole. You need to take drill with diamond spraying or with a winning tip.
2. To increase the service life of drowned, I advise you to cool them in water periodically so that they do not overheat.
3. After you prepare a wooden cork, dip it in glue. Only glue should not be based on water, as the wood can then spill.
4. Also you can make a lead plug. To do this, take a lead sheet, cut off the strip, which is suitable for the hole, after twisting it into the tube.
5. After taking a nail, piercing it, after tightening the hole in it.
You can also take a monolith from the gypsum or alabaster solution.

Next, you will need to take a copper wire and screw in the form of a spiral on the screw. After taking a prepared solution and fill it with a hole. Also, this solution will need to rinse the wire on a screw. Next, it is fast, without losing a second, until the suspension of the prepared solution, it is necessary to press the hole to press the screw to the depth that we need. The excess solution will be released myself, the remnants remove it until it also does not dry. We are waiting until the cork finds out and stand tightly in the wall. After that, we proceed to the immediate mounting of the bar to the concrete wall. I can also offer you another way, it is even better. This is anchor bolts. They will be perfectly kept in the solution and brick and in concrete. Anchors provide excellent strength of any fixtures. Whatever you attach, it will be very tight and firmly.

bygaga.com.ua.

What do you need to fix timber to the walls?

You will need the following devices and materials:

bar;
antiseptic;
olife;
a hammer;
nails;
screws;
ax;
sabashka;
drill;
wooden chop;
chisel;
plane.

Fastening technology: Soft method

This method is applied using a P-shaped bracket. The method has both advantages and disadvantages. The main plus of a soft attachment on the wall of the bar - the speed of work, minus - the unreliability of fixing the frame, the design can collapse over time.

Among other disadvantages, fragility of the bar marks: the frame can be easily spoiled, accidentally hitting it. Therefore, it is worth thinking before you are going to perform this work. However, there is still a solution: if the elements are stacked for decoration of walls from plastic panels, then deformations are usually not observed.
It should take into account that the covering of panels with a wooden frame is performed perpendicular to the element panels themselves. At the bottom of the wall, laying timber occurs more often than in the upper area. As a rule, a bell fastener to a height of up to 1.5 m is located every 0.4 m. Above this mark, the distance is made more and can be 0.6-0.7 m.

Such work can be done yourself. Mounting the frame does not require special skills in the field of construction, it is important only to comply with the instructions.

Mounting Features Hardwood

nails;
chops;
shabashi.

The method is characterized by its reliability, strength and durability of the design.

Experts advise to make fastenings on the walls just a hard way, as it does not arise in further problems with the deformation of the carcass.

In the process of work, a jumper is used - the device to do the holes. You should drill the hole to install fasteners. It does not matter, a wall of concrete or brick - this tool will help you cope with the task.

In the formed hole insert a wooden chop (clog it with a hammer). Next, in the Chop, you must score a nail through a sabank or a bar.

This method is used more often than a soft way of fasteners. However, despite the guarantee and quality of work, he has one main disadvantage - time. The process of the walls of the wall takes you a lot of strength and time that is so lacking with a modern person.

Montage with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions

First of all, you need to make a markup, which will be the basis for creating a project. This is done so that you can determine the surface of the walls.

The next step is the strapping. To do this, lay the elements strictly along the contour of the aligned wall. In case you are going to align one wall, it is necessary to mount the bar to the walls that are perpendicular. When installing does not require the use of linings.

First, it is recommended to make a small hole in the part installed. Make it need so that you can insert screws. At the same time, remember that the diameter of the drilled hole must be slightly larger than the diameter of the screw.

Then you take the product and apply it to the surface of the wall. Make part of this work with the help of hammer and nail. Your task is in transferring the mark for the hole to the surface.

The next stage of work is to drill the intended holes. As a rule, in them you must score a wooden chop or ordinary dowels.

Now you are creating and install all the additional contour items. For convenience, you should stretch between them the thread. Why do you need a thread? For it, you can easily set the height of the bag, and in all places of fastening of the bar to the wall. Thus, you measure the distance that is formed from the wall surface to the thread. Then we subtract the height of the element from this distance.

Then you should take pieces of plywood of various thicknesses and build a sabank. In the process of work, you will need an ax and a chisel.

After the sabashka is ready, you can start drumming the hole in it. The diameter of the tailored hole must be larger than the diameter of the screw.

Next, you should do holes in the bar, so that later it was possible to attach it to the wall.
How to drill a hole depends on the height of the element, as well as on the material from which it is made. For example, if the timber has a height of more than 6 cm, and the material is a larch, then use a drill with a drill with a diameter of 12 mm. When installing, take into account one important circumstance: a screw from a screw must be completely included in the bar, do not allow no elevations, try to arrange a screw in the inside of the element.

In case the timing has a significant thickness, then you should do holes with a depth of 3 cm.
Then we proceed to the fastener of the element to the surface with the help of previously made shabbes.

To make sure that the fixed timber is fixed, use the construction level. If it happened so that the timber is attached to the surface slightly higher than planned, then unscrew the screw and replace the hat. You can use the second way: unscrew the screw (not only to the end) and put the gaskets of the necessary parameters on both sides of the element.

In the case of the location of the bar below the planned level, unscrew the screw and change the sabank. However, if the difference in the marks is a slight height (up to 2 mm), you can shoot an unnecessary part with the help of the Construction Ramp.

Mounting bar to brick wall: installation features

To get started, you should purchase:

dowels;
self-tapping screw;
anchors;
rivets;
nails;
corners.

Choose the right drill you will be able to store in a construction store. The drilling process takes a lot of time from you, but it will not work differently.

Mounting is made according to the standard scheme: make holes and with special fixtures secure the timber. Be careful: with the wrong installation, the whole design can collapse.

The mounting of the bar to the concrete wall is carried out by the same instructions, fixtures and materials are the same. However, the main tool is a drill that can make holes in concrete (the drill is useless here). In the rest of the work, you will also need to drill, calculate and secure. Thus, if all the points of fasteners are observed, the bar will hold securely.

1poderevu.ru.

Fastening timber to concrete and brick wall

Brick should be used carefully, strictly at right angles, not "loose" drill so as not to split the brick. The split can cause squeezing of bricks. If you get into the cavity of the brick, you will have to use a dowel of anchor type, which when turning into the wall, forms a node, or a spacer dowel. Shoot a dowel carefully. Mechanical anchor for the device for fastening wooden bars to brick walls is much better than self-tapping and nails, and technologically, and by fastening strength.

For concrete, you need a drill with a perforator function and strong plastic dowels under the self-tapping screw, sometimes before the plastic dowel clogging in the wall is additionally lubricated with glue.

Fastening a bar to a wooden wall

Apply perforated fastening elements of corner type or flat. The fasteners differ in dimensions, metal thickness and coating. Nails, screws and screws are used. For large nails, the holes are predicted, especially when working with dried wood.

Fastening to a wall of aerated concrete and plasterboard

Gas blocks The material is soft, for them are suitable screws with threads for the whole length, but it is better to use anchors, mechanical or chemical. To qualitatively install an anchor with embarrassed ribs or wedge-shaped, pre-kill the hole with a diameter of a little more anchor. One of the types of anchors is great for hollow blocks and blocks from cellular concrete - foam blocks, gasoblocks, etc. The main "parts" of the anchor is a steel sleeve having ribs and a nut at the end. When the screw is screwed into the sleeve, the ribs bent and spread out, forming a "butterfly", which securely holds the anchor inside the material.

Chemical anchors are even stronger, they are suitable for all wall materials from lightweight concrete and for drywall, and for any wall materials. The principle of operation is the ability of synthetic resins deep into the pores and gripped with the base. The weak fastening link to porous blocks and plasterboard is not fasteners, but the material of the base, especially when the vertical load is the action, and the chemical anchors are helped to solve. Chemical anchor insert, applying a special pistol. In the furnace hole is extruded under pressure adhesive mass, and the fastening element is immediately inserted - the heel with thread or rod. The adhesive composition fills the pores of aerated concrete or other porous block, and after frozen, it forms a solid and reliable fastening. The effort of a chemical anchor of a brick of more than 500 kg. The time of service of chemical anchors - dozens of years, from temperature differences they are not deformed, to the aggressive media inert. The latter is very important when working with aerated concrete, which is aggressive to metals. All fasteners for aerated concrete must have an anti-corrosion coating.

For mounting the bar to aerated concrete or drywall, an anchor fastening method is the most durable, albeit cost. It all depends on the density (brand) of the aerated concrete and from the required load. For fastening the crate can be enough to apply mechanical anchors - wedge-shaped or type "spiral nails". The latter are convenient because they are mounted in a wall of aerated concrete, scoring the usual hammer. When driving, a spiral nail is screwed into the block without disturbing its porous structure.

The dowel, similar in the working position on the spokes of a semi-walled umbrella, wears the gentle name Molly and is great for fastening wooden bars to plasterboard partitions, in order to secure pictures on them, not heavy shelves or lamps. Molly is a view of a spacer anchor bolt having a sleeve with longitudinal slots, which, when tightening the threads of the inserted screw until it is completed and turns into an umbrella. The carrier's ability is excellent, but this mount has drawbacks - it is possible to remove it, only breaking the part of the partition. In addition, with Molly, it is impossible to work in close space.

Fastening timber in roof structures

Lags from the bar are mounted with a lock connection and brackets, but for the roof this dock is unacceptable, since the roof is operated in completely different conditions. All elements of the roof (rafal system) are set according to the project and calculation, and they are fixed with special elements and bolted systems, sometimes further strengthen the brackets.

Fastening a bar on the suspension

In the interiors sometimes use decor elements for which it is required to fix the timber to the ceiling on the free suspension or imitate such a suspension. Sometimes the suspension of the bar is needed by constructive considerations. This type of attachment is performed by means of a special suspension designed for a certain load. The suspension system of this type may have an additional ability to adjust the height of the suspension of the bar.

The suspensions are attached to the ceiling of the dowels, and the second part of the mount is installed on the bar, then the elements are connected. Practice shows that such fasteners, contrary to expectations, can withstand considerable loads. But still it is better not to have a similar risk factor, and for design, imitate suspension, and the bar is fixed reliably into the wall. The suspension system in this case is set to strengthen the mount, and in design purposes, "for beauty."

Fastening a bar to the wall - not a simple question. The bar has always been popular in the construction of private houses. Currently, construction materials with new properties are increasingly appearing, technologies are developing. A combination of a bar with new building materials and installation systems sometimes causes questions - how technically will correctly perform the fastenings of a bar to different surfaces?

Fastening is required for fastening. Today there are many types of fasteners for any elements connections. Their differences are the scope and technical characteristics that regulate the permissible load on the fastening element and the fastener technology.

Corner metal fasteners have holes for fastening with self-draws, nails or dowels. Metals for corners are not exposed to oxidation and strong enough. The reserve of the strength of the corner needs to be taken at least 2, that is, the corner must withstand the weight twice as much as the weight of the element that will rely on it. At the same time, you still need to consider and calculate what kind of designs will rely on this bar.

Wooden bars are attached to the walls with different goals - to strengthen the mounted furniture on these walls, bookshelves or decorative elements of the interior, as well as household appliances. When installing door frames, for cladding outside and inside, for the visor device above the entrance door or a canopy for the veranda, you also need to make fastenings of timber to the walls. The main thing is to first need to decide on the material of this wall, and approach the aerated concrete blocks, a plasterboard facing and a brick wall, of course, will have to be completely different.

The choice of fastener method depends on the material of the wall and features of the design being created. Of course, in the context of the aerated concrete, it is not about exciting runs from a bar to walls from cellular concrete or ceramic blocks, it is impossible without a device of aropoyas or reinforcing structures, but only about the attachment of bars, for example, for crates for plasterboard.

It is also not about to mount the timber to brick and concrete walls for the device of overlapping or floors with lags from a bar, since there should be significant loads in these structures and its fastening. The design of the fastening of the bar at the same time - installation in the wall in the process of masonry or concreting, or supporting the armoomas.

The ends of the bar are additionally impregnated with flaky diffraction composition before deploying or laying into the wall and protect the layer of waterproofing material. Antiseptics on oil bases are not recommended, as they make the evaporation of moisture. The ends of wooden beams are cut under 70 degrees, so that the moisture is better evaporated. The gap between the niche wall and the beam is obligatory, thermal insulation is laid, since the beam relies on the outer wall.

When laying beams from a bar on Armopoyas, they are fixed with special anchor plates covered with anti-corrosion composition.

Corner fasteners are used to attach a bar to concrete and brick designs. Reliable and durable compound is possible when using high-quality corners from a metal that can withstand the load.

Before installing the corner elements, the layout of the position and circuits of the bar is applied to the surface, using the measuring instruments. You can use the usual plumb and construction level, but the laser level will allow you to quickly make markup and vertically, and horizontally simultaneously.
Then the corner elements are fixed with dowels, self-drawing, nails use for lighter structures. Fully self-tapping screws are not tightened so that you can slightly correct the position of the element.
The bar is inserted into the corners and join them with self-draws, then tighten the mounting of the corners to the wall completely. Corner clamp fasteners, if necessary, adjusting its position exactly on the markup.

Fastening timber to concrete and brick wall

Fastening a bar to a wooden wall

Fastening to a wall of aerated concrete and plasterboard

Fastening timber in roof structures

Fastening a bar on the suspension

Fastening a wooden bar to a brick wall - features of technology

In the process of performing various construction work, it is often the need to fix the timber on the brick wall. In inexperienced masters, this task often calls a number of questions. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to fix the wooden bar to the brick wall, as well as some other wooden parts.

Fastening a bar to the wall

In what cases is required to fasten the timber to the wall

Fastening a brickwork for brickwork is a fairly common construction operation, which may be required in the following cases:

When attaching various designs and interior elements.
When performing redevelopment.
In the process of insulation or facing the facade - in this case, you need to fasten the wooden crate to the brick wall.
For mounting visors and adjacent to the house of canopies.

Below in detail look at how the installation of the bar is performed.

Installation of a wooden crate

The process of fastening the bar

Tools

Before attaching a wooden bar to a brick wall, you must prepare the following tools and materials:

Electric drill;
A hammer;
Building level;
Dowel type "Quick Installation".

Installation

Instructions for fastening a bar on the wall as follows:

First you need to find a position in which the timing attached to the wall should be.
Next, you need to perform holes under the dowel, which drill through the timber. At this stage, it is important not to shift the item, so it is better to perform work together together so that one person holds the bar, and the second - drilled holes.

The step between the fasteners depends on the cross section of the bar - which it is more, that, accordingly, less should be a step. For example, if the bar is attached to a cross section of 5x5 cm, the step should be about 20 - 30 cm.

In addition, depending on the cross section of the bar, the size of the fastener is selected. The maximum size is 8 × 120 mm, and the minimum is 6 × 40 mm. As for the choice of drill, it must correspond to the diameter and length of the dowel.

Then you need to perform the cencing of the holes to perform the installation of fasteners in vot. For this, the holes for several millimeters are drilled by a drill corresponding to the diameter of the fastener hats.

Insert plastic dowel in the hole

After that, plastic dowels are inserted into the openings with their own hands.
At the end of work in a dowel, nails are inserted and clogged with a hammer. As a result, the fasteners are expanding and firmly fixed in the wall, while holding the wooden part.

Note! The nails of the dowels have rosters under a crusade screwdriver, however, they are not intended to be screwed. The slots are made only with the goal of a simple dismantling of fasteners.

This is completed on this installation. It must be said that earlier, before the appearance of quick installation, the bar was attached to the walls with ordinary dowels. However, now this technology is not applicable, as it is much more complicated and takes more time.

An example of sealing beams

Installation of beams

Separately, it should be said about how the wooden beam on the brick wall is performed. This procedure is very responsible, since the beams usually take over a large load or even serve as overlapping. Therefore, sealing the beams in the wall (support) must comply with certain strength and reliability requirements.

So, the installation of beams is usually carried out in a special niche depth of at least 150 mm.

The process itself looks like this:

First of all, it is necessary to pull the ends of the beam at an angle of about 60 degrees.
Then the ends of the parts are impregnated with antiseptic fluid, and after drying are processed by a resin.
Next, the bottom of the niche is aligned and covered in several layers of rubberoid.
After that, the ends of the beam turn the toll and stacked so that the niche walls did not reach about 40 millimeters.
Then the space remained in the niche is filled with concrete.

This is completed in this process. It must be said that it is often an additional mounting of the beam by an anchor for giving stiffness. In this case, the anchor is installed in the process of laying the wall, and is located at a distance of about 12 cm from its outdoor surface.

Enclosure Scheme using anchor

The other end of the anchor should write to the room by 20 cm. At the same time, a hole corresponding to the diameter of the pin is performed for the installation of the beam. This installation method is applied in cases where it is necessary to obtain a fixed strength.

Jumper

It should be noted that there are a number of requirements to wooden jumpers:

Thickness must double the thickness of the brick.
Wood must be high quality, without cracks and bitch.
Wood moisture should be not more than 8%, otherwise the jumper may not be a jumper.

Note! Before laying the beam, it must be impregnated with antiseptic composition and antipiren. It prevents it from rotting and make fireproof.

In the photo - Wooden jumper

The laying process looks like this:

Initially, the platforms are prepared to which the jumper will be relying. They are cleaned of garbage and top are covered with several layers of rubberoid. It should be borne in mind that the jumper should go on a 20-25 cm wall.
A cement solution is applied and the jumper itself is applied.
Next, the position of the part is checked by a building level. If necessary, it should be corrected.
When erecting subsequent rows, the space between the jumper end and bricks is also filled with cement mortar.

Tip! Jumper is desirable to do from durable wood breeds, especially if the structure is massive. For example, an excellent option is an oak beam, though the price of this wood is quite high.

Here, perhaps, all the basic information on the mounting of the bar and other wooden parts for brick walls.

Output

Stop the wooden wall of the bar or lay the beam on it is easy. However, like any other construction operations, this work requires strict adherence to technology. It is from this that depends the strength and reliability of the installation (see also the article "Fastening the Balyasin to a wooden staircase: technical features of installation. Safety recommendations").

You can get acquainted with additional some information on the topic voiced above from this article.

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