Specialization: master for interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.
Have you noticed that a bath and a toilet next to the kitchen are designed in almost all standard residential buildings, from stalinks to buildings under construction today? Didn't you worry about the question whether these are flaws in the building design, savings in living space, or a technical necessity?
If you do not know the answer, but are going to make an extension or build your own house, I will try to answer it, and you will also have the opportunity to watch the video in this article regarding this topic.
What a kitchen has in common with a bathroom and toilet
Sewerage system
In order to understand the essence of the issue, you need to understand the principle of arranging the system.
Table of slopes of pipes of different diameters
There are specific instructions and different priorities for installing a sewer system:
- first of all, sewer systems of this type do not have a forced drain, therefore, the slope of the pipes is obligatory here - you cannot do without it;
- moreover, this same slope is different for different pipe diameters and the allowances for ± there are small. This means that you have to look for a common denominator for all plumbing fixtures;
- the outlet from the house to or any storage tank is made with the hundredth, one hundred and fiftieth or, in rare cases, two hundredth pipe, which is laid down in a trench at a slope;
- all other plumbing fixtures are connected to it;
- therefore, from a technical and technological point of view, it is much more profitable and more convenient to mount all plumbing units as close as possible to each other.
In the schematic image above, you see the standard layout of the bathrooms, whether it be an extension of the kitchen and toilet to the country house, or they are pre-designed in the house:
- note that the last is the toilet, the outlet of which is connected to the hundredth pipe (it is designed for it). Although, if you have a larger pipe diameter, then in such cases they simply install a reducing adapter;
- all other appliances, with the exception of the automatic washing machine and dishwasher, are connected with the 50th pipe, and the mentioned exceptions are connected with the 32nd.
Imagine that a toilet, that is, a toilet bowl, will be at a distance of, say, 20 m from the kitchen sink, which means that the outlet at the sink siphon should be at a height of 70 cm. Agree that this is not very convenient and practical!
That is why the plan for an extension to the house, a kitchen-bathroom-toilet is made, as it were, as one unit, albeit separated by partitions.
The nuances of arranging an extension
The extension, where the water supply and sewerage wiring will be, must be warm, regardless of what material it was made of (wood, brick, foamed blocks, concrete, etc.). Otherwise:
- pipelines will freeze in winter;
- if it is metal, they will burst;
- and polypropylene and PVC will simply stop functioning.
Now I'm not talking about pipe heat insulators, but about a warm room, that is, fairly thick walls and heating devices inside.
So, in order to build a warm extension, you have to insulate it with your own hands, using synthetic materials such as mineral wool, foam or extruded polystyrene foam for this. But for each region there is a coefficient of insulation of residential buildings.
This coefficient is used to calculate the thickness of the insulating material. But if you do not want to deal with formulas, then you can simply focus on your home and make the thickness of the walls the same.
If you will additionally insulate the walls in the extension, then it is better to do it outside. If the insulation is inside, then the wall still freezes, therefore, the efficiency of the arrangement decreases.
If you are already making an extension for a kitchen with sanitary facilities, then most likely you will be doing it in a modern style, therefore, you will want to hide all the piping for decoration. This means that they will move to a colder area of the building and you will need additional protection from the cold.
Foamed polyethylene is the best fit here, which is made in the form of a pipe with a seam on one side - the shell is opened and put on a pipe of the required diameter (the price of such a material is quite democratic and depends on the section).
In such annexes, it is very convenient to arrange all the electrical wiring, for example, a bath-kitchen-toilet switch block and one or two sockets. This not only saves space, but also makes possible repairs easier.
But in the bathroom or in the kitchen there may be devices such as an electric boiler or a washing machine, and they need separate wiring, moreover, with grounding. Grounding for the private sector is not a problem - you can easily make such a circuit yourself, protecting not only electrical appliances, but also your health.
Conclusion
Of course, you have the option of not installing bathrooms in the annex directly next to the kitchen and separating them, for example, with a pantry. You can even make two extensions, but in this case you will have to pull a separate sewer pipeline.
In any case, it's up to you! If you have any questions or want to supplement the topic, write about it in the comments.
August 27, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Time passes, and it turns out that a private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We will tell you how to do this efficiently and at no extra cost in the article.
Save money without sacrificing quality - requirements for premises and materials
A poorly thought-out design of an extension over time will force something to be altered or completed, attached to a country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think over all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start by choosing the location and size.
Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to the construction of a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.
Kitchens and bathrooms are another common type of annex. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and bring them down even before the start of construction. Sewerage and water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to break through under it later. Floor waterproofing requires special attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then you can save on this.
The house is expanded with a veranda annex. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.
An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, then it will be easy to repeat it in the attached room. Wood goes well with all materials, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:
- is being built quickly, literally in a few months;
- does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
- without special knowledge and skills, it is available for construction with your own hands;
- will cost less.
The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but we leave the expansion joint. In this respect, frame structures are favorably distinguished, which do not give vertical shrinkage.
If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.
Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable
For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or their combination is used. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or a bathroom, thermal insulation of the input of utilities into the house will be required. Since the protection concerns on average half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfill, a fence around the perimeter.
We start by marking the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, the depth is greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top of the pits we expand a little: on each side about 10 cm. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm, carefully rammed, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.
We spread the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of bricks, pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each hole and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.
We make the formwork for the basement, inside which we run the film. Pour the concrete layer by layer, pierce each layer several times with a rod so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the pillar and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.
When the foundation has acquired the required strength, the formwork is removed. We warm up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the posts and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. There is a space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.
Getting Started - Bottom Rail and Extension Floor
So, we settled on the frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for the tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: to make reliable waterproofing and to carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.
Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually, a bar of 150 × 150 mm is used, but it is possible to use boards of 150 × 50 mm. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.
In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then we lay it. To get the effect of a single bar, knock down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:
- is much cheaper than bars;
- it is very simple to connect with each other, it is more difficult with bars.
We attach the lower strapping to the slopes from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them with 90 mm nails between ourselves and with the beds. Next, we expose logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.
Now we start to warm the floor. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only heater that is not afraid of moisture. We nail bars of 50 × 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag, which will hold the expanded polystyrene. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.
The base is ready. Lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we put it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look into the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if you have grooved edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We put it directly on the logs.
Wall installation - two assembly technologies
There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel board, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes sheathing of the frame is carried out immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone, assistants will be required.
We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts. For them and intermediate racks, we use a bar of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.
The fastening can be carried out simply and reliably with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension is bent.
Temporary slopes, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help to maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a hard and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing temporary mows. When a soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then you cannot do without permanent braces. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.
In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper strapping. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the lower one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the strapping itself from the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150 × 50 boards to the edge with nails.
We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correctness of the installation of the struts and crossbars: the columns are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.
Shed roof - design and technology
The roof of the house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one whole. If the extension is built from the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its structure in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is pitched. The slope is provided by the difference in height between the front and rear struts. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main visor.
The roof supports are rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground in a pattern so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, there is no need to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten them to the walls with brackets, metal corners on hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.
We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it solid or with a step of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for solid wooden flooring arises in the case of using a soft material, we make it thinner for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten the profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, and ondulin - with nails with a wide head. We provide overlapping waves. Don't forget about the final design: the wind bars not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete look.
Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension
Mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used to insulate buildings. Minvats resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a low weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it very much, it emits toxic gases in case of fire.
We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:
- 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples, using a construction stapler, in such a way as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
- 2. We put insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, applying the next overlap layer.
- 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. We fix it in the same way as for waterproofing.
- 4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly flat frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is tougher and smoothes out flaws.
Remained interior and exterior decoration, where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is erected quickly, cheaply, it has been serving for more than a decade, and it can be built practically without outside help.
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A country house is rarely associated with convenience and comfort. For some reason, a rickety toilet booth and a galvanized washing trough come to mind. And it is completely in vain: it is not a problem to build a comfortable bathroom and a convenient toilet in the cottage. I will try to describe the solutions to a number of problems that arise at different stages of construction in this article.
Construction
How to attach a bathroom to a house - stone or frame?
Let's break this question down into a few less global ones.
Foundation
- How to tie the foundation of the extension to the base of the house?
As a rule, private houses, depending on the type of soil and the mass of the walls, are built on strip, columnar or pile foundations. In the case of a strip foundation, the problem of connecting the foundations of the extension and the main structure will inevitably arise. There are two possible solutions to this problem:
- the extension is connected to the strip foundation of the house with thick (14 - 16 mm) reinforcement. It is pulled through holes drilled in the concrete. Such a reinforcement scheme excludes deformation of the walls of the extension during soil subsidence;
It makes sense to build a common foundation on stable soils and after complete shrinkage of the house. If the soil is mobile and the shrinkage has not yet been completed, it is better to prefer separate bases.
- The second option is the construction of an independent foundation. It is laid to the same depth as the base of the house, leaving an expansion joint between the foundations, filled with any elastic material (for example, glued mineral wool). Such a scheme allows, among other things, the use of foundations of different types (say, columnar and strip).
- What can be used to make a foundation?
In Crimea, where I live, the most popular solution is monolithic strip foundations made of concrete grades M250 - M300. Typical deepening is about 30 - 40 centimeters, the height of the foundation above the ground level is 25 - 30 cm.
On heaving soils in regions with cold winters, the foundation should be buried below the freezing level. In the regions of the country with permafrost, strip foundations are not at all held in high esteem: as a rule, houses are built on piles.
Walls
- What to build bath walls from?
The material of the walls is dictated by both local prices for building materials and the type of walls of the main building. Agree that a brick bathroom will look rather strange in a log house. I will list the most popular solutions in my region:
- Frame building with filling of cavities with mineral wool and 10 mm thick OSB sheathing. The frame is rigidly tied to the walls of the house with galvanized corners or anchors;
- The walls are made of shell rock, a local sedimentary rock. Due to its porous structure, it retains heat well, but does not have high mechanical strength. In order for the extension to be rigidly connected to the house, a reinforced concrete armored belt is built, tied to the walls of the main structure with reinforcement laid in the holes in them;
- In recent years, aerated concrete has noticeably displaced shell rock due to the ideal geometry of the blocks. The walls folded from it do not require compulsory leveling with plaster;
- Finally, the time-tested classics - logs and beams - also did not leave the building materials market anywhere. In this case, an expansion joint filled with mineral wool or other insulation remains between the walls of the extension and the house.
- Do you need wall insulation?
It all depends on the climatic zone and on the materials used in the construction. If the extension is built of aerated concrete blocks and is operated in Yakutia or Chukotka, the heat loss through the walls without insulation will be unreasonably large. On the other hand, frame walls 100 mm thick filled with mineral wool will provide sufficient thermal insulation in most of the country.
Roof
- What should be the roof structure of a bathroom attached to the house??
All the annexes I saw in the Crimea had a pitched roof, laid on wooden beams. The beams can rely on the Mauerlat anchored to the armored belt, but much more often they are simply waterproofed and laid in the upper part of the walls.
- How to block the roof of the extension?
In my opinion, in the middle price range, the most attractive material is professional sheet. It was this that I used when building the attic roof in my house. Here are the reasons for it:
- Low price per square meter (from 150 rubles with a sheet thickness of 0.4 mm);
- Acceptable strength, allowing the roof to withstand the weight of an adult;
- Durability. The service life of the profiled sheet is estimated at at least 30 years.
In fairness, it is worth mentioning a couple of shortcomings of the material:
- The roof will make a noticeable noise in the rain;
- For small slopes (less than 15 degrees), the overlaps along the length must be additionally sealed with silicone. Unlike metal tiles, the profiled sheet does not have a transverse wave, which excludes water infiltration.
With a small extension, the roof, as a rule, is completely covered with one row of sheets.
When installing the profiled sheet on top of the beams, a lathing made of a board with a thickness of 30 - 40 mm with a step of 0.5 meters is laid, a vapor-permeable waterproofing and a counter-lattice - a lath with a thickness of 20 mm. The counter grill creates a ventilation gap that prevents the accumulation of condensate and decay of the roof frame.
- How to insulate the roof of an attached bathroom?
Plates of glued mineral wool are laid in the gaps between the beams or roof rafters. From below, they are hemmed with a vapor barrier film. Then a rough ceiling is constructed from a board with a thickness of 25 mm, to which a plasterboard sheet, plastic or any other material of the final ceiling is attached to level it.
Floors
- What to make a bathroom floor?
The typical subfloor is wooden beams. As a rule, cranial bars are sewn onto their lateral surfaces, on which a 25 mm thick board and insulation are successively laid. From above, the insulation is covered with waterproofing, after which a rough floor is laid from a plank 40-50 mm thick (depending on the pitch between the beams).
With a large distance from the beam to the beam, it is more profitable not to increase the thickness of the floorboards, but to lay transverse logs under them with a step of 30 - 50 cm.
Typical bathroom flooring is tiled. Laying it on a wooden base deserves a special talk. When building a bathroom in the attic, I solved this problem like this:
- An OSB sheet 15 mm thick was screwed to the lags with self-tapping screws;
- On top of it is laid a cement-bonded particle board with a thickness of 24 mm. To exclude deformation of the floor, the plate is glued to the base on mounting foam and tightened with self-tapping screws through the holes pre-drilled in it;
- The seams of the cement-bonded particle board are filled with mortar;
- A tile is laid on top of the DSP. For its sticker, I used Ceresit CM 17 tile adhesive.
The bathroom is used very neatly, so I did without additional waterproofing of the floor. In general, it is useful, for waterproofing it is easiest to use dense polyethylene laid between the base layers.
Decoration Materials
- What and how can a bathroom in a frame house be finished with your own hands?
For cladding the frame, plywood or OSB are usually used. The main finishing material for the bathroom is tiles: it combines absolute resistance to moisture with exceptional durability, allowing you to clean walls with any aggressive and abrasive detergents, and durability.
The main problem is to stick the tiles on OSB or plywood. Here are two solutions:
- Use silicone sealant instead of tile adhesive. It is applied in dots or in stripes to the edges and in the middle of each tile, after which it is rubbed against the wall with a couple of sliding movements. The preliminary priming of the walls is not necessary, it is enough just to thoroughly clean them of dust.
Seams are filled with the same sealant. In the assortment of many manufacturers there are colored silicone grout for tiles;
I used regular transparent silicone to fill the joints. The base can only be seen through the seam in bright light and point-blank.
- Sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard. The seams do not need to be putty: they will still be covered with tiles. In this case, any cement-based adhesive can be used to install the tiles.
When finishing the bathroom in the attic, I used another material - rubber paint. This is a common water emulsion based on acrylic latex, which, after drying, gives a full-fledged waterproofing coating. It can be washed and cleaned with any non-abrasive product.
It is advisable to provide at least one light window in the walls of the bathroom. To protect against immodest looks from the outside, it is usually placed under the ceiling. I used a PVC double glazed window without opening sashes.
Plumbing
- Which bath is better to buy - cast iron, steel or acrylic?
At various times I have had occasion to use all three types of bathtubs. These are the impressions they left behind.
| Material | Peculiarities |
| Cast iron | The significant mass of the bath makes it difficult to install, but increases its stability. The bath heats up slowly and cools down slowly. Water intake is practically silent: massive walls do not resonate |
| Steel | As long as the seam between the wall and the rim is not repaired, the steel tub remains unstable. Sitting on the side, you can turn it over. The bottom is noisy when collecting water. The deformation of the bottom under the weight of the owner may well cause enamel chips. |
| Acrylic | A lightweight bathtub requires an obligatory fixing to the wall, which makes it relatively difficult to install. Acrylic is afraid of strong blows, therefore it is better not to place shelves with household chemicals and cosmetics above the bathroom. The surface gets dirty easily; for cleaning, you can use acidic and alkaline cleaning agents (Whiteness, Domestos, etc.) |
I currently have an acrylic bathtub installed. The choice was dictated by two considerations:
- Savings. A cast-iron bathtub of comparable size cost three times the price;
- The ability to choose a form that is convenient for me. Triangular and asymmetric cast-iron bathtubs, apparently, are not produced in principle, and acrylic - as much as necessary.
- How to put the bath - horizontally or with a slope?
Place the bath on legs so that its sides are horizontal, and check the level of the bottom slope. If it is able to provide a drain of water to the outlet, the bath can be left in this position. If the bottom is also horizontal, the side farthest from the outlet will have to be raised.
- How to seal the seam between the bathroom and the wall?
If the walls are even, it is sufficient to fill the joint with silicone sealant. With a significant thickness of the seam under the bath shelf, you will first have to glue a strip of foam or nail a thin strip. The obstacle will prevent the silicone from sliding down under its own weight.
A few nuances:
- The seam is filled with silicone to the full depth. It will not only ensure tightness, but also reliably fix the edge of the bath. This is especially important if the latter is made of steel or acrylic;
- Do not be too lazy to pre-protect the tile and the shelf of the bathtub with strips of masking tape. It will be quite difficult to remove the set sealant from their surface;
- If the thickness of the joint is small, it is better to use a transparent sealant rather than a white one. For some reason unknown to me, it is not affected by the fungus, while white silicone often turns black after several years of operation.
In the case of uneven walls, the gap between the wall and the bathroom is closed with a plastic corner. It is better to glue it on the same sealant. Silicone is applied not to the corner itself, but to the wall and shelf of the bathtub: this way there is less chance of staining adjacent surfaces.
- Which mixer is better for the bathroom?
Its design will dictate to you the interior in the bathroom in the house: for example, a chrome-plated faucet will perfectly match a modern design, and a retro-style bronze fixture will look good with a freestanding cast-iron bathtub with forged or curved legs.
But the design is better to select based on the fault tolerance of different solutions. Here I will allow myself to give a couple of tips:
- The most reliable type of shut-off and control valves is ceramic crane boxes;
- Ball switches on the shower do not break in principle. It is easy to distinguish them from similar externally lever ones by the movement of the handle: it freely rotates 360 degrees.
When buying a mixer, pay attention to its weight. It is not worth buying a device that is too light: with a high probability, it is not brass that is hidden under the chrome coating, but an extremely fragile silumin.
- What pipes and how to lay a sewer in a bathroom in a country house?
I advise using inexpensive and durable PVC pipes. Here are the basic rules for installing a sewer:
- It is better to lay pipes openly. Some blockages can only be cleared through the nearest socket. It is advisable that after cleaning you do not have to make unscheduled repairs in the bathroom in the house;
- The slope towards the flow of drains should be 2 cm per running meter for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm and 3 - for a diameter of 50 mm;
- The diameter of the pipe in the direction of the flow of drains can only increase;
- To connect bathtubs, shower cabins and washbasins, the sewerage system is divorced with a diameter of 50 mm, toilets - 110 mm;
- The plastic pipe is fixed in increments of no more than 10 diameters. The instruction is related to the plasticity of PVC: over several years, unsecured areas can sag under their own weight and form areas with a negative slope. Each counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages;
- To connect the bath, it is better to provide an oblique tee with a side outlet directed along the direction of the drains. In this case, a salvo discharge of water will not lead to an overflow of the sewage system;
- All connections of piping and siphons with the sewerage system must be tight. Sewage odors will enter the bathroom through the gaps.
Ventilation
- How to get rid of dampness in the bathroom?
By organizing its heating and forced ventilation. In the attic bathroom of my house, air is drawn through a grill in the ceiling; a duct fan with a capacity of 105 m3 / h is responsible for ventilation. It is connected to a separate dimmer that allows you to regulate the speed, and works around the clock.
Conclusion
I hope that my experience will help the reader to successfully solve the problems of building and decorating a bathroom. As always, you can explore additional resources by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!
August 28, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
A FEW YEARS AGO I BUILT IN A VILLAGE A HOUSE USING FRAME TECHNOLOGY. THERE WAS NO WATER AT THE SITE - HAD TO BE CARRIED OUT FROM THE WELL. RECENTLY DRILLED A WELL AND DRIVEN WATER IN THE HOUSE, AND ATTENDEDLY BUILT A FULL-PRICE BATHROOM WITH A BATHROOM.
At the junction of the future extension, I removed the lining from the wall, the basement slate panels (cover the foundation pillars) (photo 1). With a hand-held circular saw, I sawed through the sheets of plywood along the width of the opening and removed them. He dismantled the insulation plates, the window and the supporting frame pillars (photo 2), supporting the upper strapping beam.
Since the length of the roof overhang is 60 cm, and it is technically difficult to increase it, I decided to make the extension of the same size. With a hand drill, I drilled two holes with a diameter of 200 mm to a depth of 150 cm in the ground, poured one bucket of concrete mortar inside each, and installed pipes 130 cm long and 120 mm d, set them at a level (photo 3) between themselves and the pillars of the foundation of the house. He filled the supports inside with mortar, and covered them with sand outside and tamped it down.
The lower trim of the extension was made of two interconnected boards with a cross section of 150 × 50 mm. The joining to the house was done at an angle - on one side 90 degrees, on the other - 45. I laid a floor of grooved boards flush with the floor of the house, put OSB sheets on top and covered them with linoleum.
I placed the bath and toilet in the annex before installing the wall frame. On the harness, I fixed the racks from a bar with a section of 100 × 50 mm and fixed a plastic window between them (photo 4) On the inside, I sheathed the frame with OSB sheets.
Insulated the ceiling. To do this, I installed insulation plates between the ceiling beams, which, due to their elasticity, hold themselves. For vapor barrier and additional insulation between the ceiling beams, a furniture glass was fixed with foil-clad polyethylene foam 10 mm thick. I covered all the walls and ceiling of the room from the inside with plastic panels with a pattern.
After completing the interior decoration, I installed a washbasin, hung shelves (photo 5) and a heating battery. It is difficult to install a bathtub faucet (a shower hose and a long swivel spout for the sink) on a frame wall, so I used a kitchen faucet with a retractable showerhead.
The distance from the storage tank to the mixer should be as short as possible so that the water cooled in the pipes does not drain off each time it is turned on.
To heat the water, I use two electric tanks - 50 and 10 liters. I connected them in series. The smaller tank is always connected to the network: its volume is sufficient for everyday use. I connect a large one for taking a bath. Bucky placed it behind a partition on the wall next to the TV to save space in the bathroom.
Outside, the resulting extension was chipped with plastic clapboard. The pillars of the foundation were covered with sheets of flat slate.
On a note
With this technology, walls can be insulated from the outside without introducing insulation plates into the house.
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Free shippingThanks to the addition of a bathroom to the house, you will increase the comfort of living, as well as expand the usable area of \ u200b \ u200bthe home. The specialists of Rekonstruktsiya LLC will carry out the construction as soon as possible in compliance with all technical requirements. We offer our clients additional services: thermal insulation of an extension, its interior and exterior decoration, roof hemming, installation of a drainage system and others. The work is guaranteed.
Stages of arrangement of a bathroom
Even living outside the city, it is not at all necessary to give up the usual urban comfort. Attaching a toilet to your home is a simple solution to a popular problem. To organize the correct functioning of a warm bathroom, seek the help of professionals. The specialists of Reconstruction LLC will perform the following works:
- Construction and subsequent finishing of premises.
- Arrangement of a drainage field.
- Design and layout of engineering communications.
- Laying a septic tank.
- Installation of plumbing fixtures, their connection and start-up.
Dealing with the specifics of such work is not always easy even for a trained person. Trust us and you won't need to invest heavily in adding a shower to your home.
Order an extension of a bathroom in LLC "Reconstruction"
When erecting such structures, it is important to take into account the entire set of factors - from the choice of suitable materials and the need to legitimize the extension to the compliance with a holistic composition. So, the extension of the bathroom to the house should not consist of foam blocks, because they are prone to moisture accumulation. We will take into account all the nuances and guarantee for our customer:
- Project implementation without downtime.
- Compliance with the agreed terms of cooperation.
- Control over construction at all stages of its implementation.
- Delivery of the object in the presence of the manager.
- Favorable price for an extension due to bulk purchases of materials.
- Consistently high quality and provision of guarantees for all types of work.