DIY circular devices. Homemade device for precise cutting of boards with a hand-held circular saw

When working with a hand-held circular saw, the question of the straightness of the cut arises. There are two concepts for keeping a straight line:

Fastening the actual circular to the sawing machine (workbench).

In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along a guide. The quality of the cut is at a height, but there are serious restrictions on the size of the processed material.

The workpiece is fixed permanently, and a guide fence is installed for the hand-held circular saw.

In such a design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any, the main thing is to provide a strong attachment for the circular saw attachment. Hand tool manufacturers have taken care of the users and offer a variety of off-the-shelf fixtures for sale.

Manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate ruler, some allow you to set the angle of inclination of the cutting blade. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and backlash during the movement of the tool.

The pair, consisting of a groove and a slider, is protected from the ingress of sawn products and does not need lubrication.

However, all of these kits are expensive, and many DIYers make a rail for a circular saw with their own hands.

Consider the options independently invented and created by home-grown "kulibins".

IMPORTANT! A hand-held circular saw is a source of increased injuries, therefore, when making home-made devices based on it, you should adhere to safety precautions.

The easiest option is the cutting stop

The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.

It works quite efficiently, however, it is limitedly suitable for a circular saw. The tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp. The bracket protrudes above the work surface both from below and from above.

As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular motor rests against the clamp, and you have to make a cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates, a step may form.

Any master will tell you - a high-quality cut is obtained when the saw moves continuously from the beginning to the end of the workpiece.
In industrial designs, the fasteners are placed outside the ruler and do not interfere with the free passage of the tool.

A homemade guide is made from a ready-made tool of a different profile, which has a low cost. We buy a long aluminum rule (accent on and) for plaster or screed.

Its cost is 3-4 hundred rubles. The tool is a profile of complex shape with an even groove on the reverse side for adjusting the position of the handles. Clamping fastening on hex nuts. Not suitable for our tasks.

As a donor for countersunk clamps, you can use screwless quick-release clamps, which also have a reasonable cost. Their main advantage for our design is the removable upper leg.

We delete it. At the same time, the instrument can be returned to its completeness at any time and used for its intended purpose. Instead of paws, we make and fix runners from a piece of fluoroplastic or polypropylene. The main criterion for choosing a material is strength and a low coefficient of friction.

You can process the workpiece using a router or a metal hacksaw with a fine-toothed blade. In the second case, you will have to, as they say, "finalize with a file."

We fit the sliders to the groove. Sliding should be without gripping, at the same time, strong backlash is also not needed. There is no need to try too much, this unit will be fixed during operation.

We fasten the sliders to the top of the clamp tire. The connection must be strong, since during cutting there should be no spontaneous release, this can lead to injury or damage to the workpiece.

We check the performance of the structure. The self-made guide ruler is held securely, there is no backlash.

This design can handle flat workpieces of any size, as long as the length of the ruler is enough. In our case, it is 2 meters. Taking into account the margin at the edges for fixing the clamps - the working length is 1.5 meters. More than enough for most household chores.

If your requests are longer, you can use the 2.5 or 3 meter rule. The most reasonable kit is a three-meter ruler. You can saw off a piece of 50 cm long from it, and you will have two rulers - for blanks of a large area and narrow boards.

We carry out tests. The cutting line is perfectly straight, nothing interferes with the free passage of the circular saw.

And most importantly, the purchased tool was not damaged during the manufacture of the device. Both the clamps and the rule are returned to their original state at any time and are applied as intended. Labor costs are minimal - in fact, only sliders are made.

Diy external guide rail for circular saw

While there are many advantages, the previous design has a significant disadvantage. It is necessary to constantly monitor the lateral pressure of the circular body to the ruler. If the width of the workpiece cut off during cutting is too large, the length of the arms may simply not be enough.

The way out is the use of a carriage on ball bearings. The design is not so budgetary (at least you need to buy bearings), but its capabilities cover all costs. The principle of operation can be seen in the illustration:

A carriage is made from metal plates and a corner. To adjust the width, you can use the wing clamps installed in the movable grooves. A complex profile is obtained from an aluminum structural materials store. There are many options, the main thing is to provide an emphasis with bearings from above and from the side. For example - one of these options.

The profile must ensure that the C-clamp is attached to the inside of the tire. You can purchase a ready-made structure from a matched pair of carriage and guide.

It all depends on the budget of the event. The sole of the hand circular is firmly attached to the carriage.

IMPORTANT! It is necessary to ensure a strict parallelism of the movement of the circular saw along the profile, otherwise the cut will be with a loose cut.

Such a tire, made by hand, allows you to cut out large-area workpieces. At the same time, the movement of the saw is light and even, the feed can be carried out both by hand and by the guide bar.

Rail miter box for manual circular

The listed designs are well suited for leisurely cutting of single surfaces. In the case when it is necessary to quickly and accurately cut a large number of boards, the work will be done slowly. Then a rail miter box is used.

For manufacturing you will need:

Two metal corners of the same profile and length;
Flat base (plywood or chipboard at least 15 mm thick);
Bolts and nuts of the same size, 4 sets.

At a distance slightly larger than the thickness of the workpiece, guide corners are attached. The board must move freely under the rails, and at the same time, the saw blade cannot be too high.

We use bolts as studs. It is important to observe the parallelism and placement of the corners on the same plane. The photo clearly illustrates the operation of the device:

For free sliding of the tool sole along the guides, fluoroplastic strips can be glued to reduce friction.

But it would be more correct to install wheels - for example, ball bearings. Manufacturing is relatively labor intensive, but the system is very efficient and safe. If it is necessary to make cuts at an angle, it is enough to screw two screws into the base into which the board will rest.

Still have questions? Watch the video: DIY circular guide rail.

This article covers a few simple but useful jigs that a craftsman made for his hand-held circular saw. At the end of the publication, for clarity, a video tutorial by the author of the channel "Do-it-yourself carpentry".

This Chinese shop has a lot of space for carpenters. Browser plugin for saving in it: 7% -15% from purchases.

Used saw Boch GKS 165 CE. This is, first of all, a traditional standard parallel stop, which is included in the set of almost any hand-held circular saw. The rest of the fixtures are various guides. This is a device for perpendicular cross-cutting and banding of workpieces. This is a guide bar for cutting sheet material. Two bars - probably the most useful auxiliary devices at work - setting bars that allow you to accurately place any guides, such as a straight edge rail, a painting rule, any straight pipe or profile, or a factory edge of any sheet material. Last but not least, the adjustable guide for angle sawing.
I made all these devices with my own hands a long time ago, when I learned the basics of carpentry and joinery with the help of a hand-held circular saw and an electric plane during summer cottage construction. And they still serve faithfully.

Especially useful for working with bulky, long material. That is, with long boards and large sheets, which are inconvenient to process on a circular machine or miter saw. In the first part about the first three devices, as the most popular. The second part will be devoted to the other two.

So, the simplest and most common hand-held circular saw device is a standard stop designed for longitudinal cutting of workpieces to a given width. But this stop has one drawback - for safety reasons, it is designed so as not to interfere with the operation of the saw guard. As a result, the stop does not allow cutting with a width less than a certain predetermined value. It is different in different models of circular saws. For a saw, this is 22 mm. That is, with the help of this stop, it will not be possible to cut slats with a thickness of less than 22 mm. Somehow it was necessary to quickly saw a large number of slats, 10-15 mm thick, for spacers between boards in a stack. Of the tools, only a circular saw was available. It turned out that it was impossible to do this with the help of a standard stop. Therefore, he took the first block with parallel edges that came to hand and temporarily attached it to the stop with self-tapping screws. Since then I have enjoyed such emphasis!

With the help of a workpiece, you can saw off slats of any width, up to a few millimeters. When working with such a modernized stop, especially when cutting less than 15 millimeters, increased safety measures should be observed. With small sawing widths, the guard rests against the block and does not cover the rotating blade. Therefore, when handling the saw, in order not to get injured, you need to be extremely careful and attentive.
Using the device is simple: set the stop to the required kerf width, secure the workpiece, press the bar firmly against the edge of the board and guide the saw along the workpiece. Since such an emphasis can be installed almost close to the disc, replacing the pad with a longer one, about 40-50 cm, the saw can be used as an impromptu jointer for quickly leveling the edge of the edged board. The result is quite acceptable!

The next device is a guide for making perpendicular, cross cuts.

It consists of a guide rail itself and a stop perpendicular to it. The cutting line is defined by the edge. The author of the idea has been using it for about 4-5 years, so the edge is strongly worked out, soon it will be necessary to make a new one. The device is made for a specific saw blade, for memory, I wrote the parameters of my blade. On the other hand, a guide is made for a hand router, with a 12 mm cutter, but it is rarely used.
He made this device to perform a specific job, namely, to make carved columns for the terrace of his house. Many shallow perpendicular cuts had to be made on each side of the timber.
Then from 5 minutes. A continuation in the second part.

How to make a homemade circular table with your own hands according to the drawings

The hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the main advantages of a circular saw is that maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood need to be cut. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a circular saw table with your own hands.

Table device

small tabletop stand for circular

The design of a circular saw table is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench made of wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are also the most difficult and require the skills of a welder. Therefore, more often the coasters are made from sawn timber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disc protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is moved along the table top and sawn with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “eats up” a part of the working surface of the disc, the cutting depth will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is advisable to select a circular with a maximum disc diameter, and the tabletop is thin but rigid.

If the saw has not been purchased yet, select models with a high power (from 1200 W). They will cope with cutting large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for fastening: the molded base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

fixing the circular saw under the tabletop

To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember the carpentry skills, be patient and have a small amount of materials:

film faced plywood 15 - 20 mm;
timber 50 x 50;
board;
switch;
external socket;
a piece of electrical cable;
PVA glue;
varnish for wood (if plywood is not laminated);
self-tapping screws.

The size of the countertop will depend on the size of the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to saw long sections. If the part fits entirely on the work surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a tabletop design with an approximate size of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table making process

Cut a tabletop of the required size from a sheet of laminated plywood. The markings are applied to the bottom plane using a metal ruler and pencil. We cut out the plywood with a jigsaw, cut the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, clean the table surface with sandpaper.
We turn it over and from the bottom we make markings for attaching a manual circular. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and install it with the sole in the required place. We make marks on the table top and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. We drill holes for the bolts. They will twist from the top, through the countertop and from the bottom to be held in place by nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface, we countersink the holes, and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
If you plan to cut material at different angles, the cut for the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. For a straight cut, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for the fasteners, attach the saw, correct the marks, and only then cut.
Draw the location of the stiffeners with a pencil. They are made from a board and installed at the bottom 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the table top. We will attach the table legs to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, PVA is additionally glued. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the tabletop, the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
The legs of the table are made of a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. The legs, slightly diverging downward, will give greater stability. They are fixed on large bolts, screwed on the outside, and fastened with nuts from the inside. Bar screeds will additionally strengthen the frame.
To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached from below, into which M14 bolts are screwed.
Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disc into the prepared slot.
We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table, pass the electrical wire from it and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outside of the stiffener). The outlet will be powered from the switch. From it we stretch the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. With the help of a construction screed, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in the recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need a # 30 square aluminum tube and two screws with wing nuts.

Saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the tabletop, cut holes for screws 3 cm from the edge.
Cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The construction is ready.
For cutting across the table, we make a sled from plywood. We align them relative to the edges of the table, press and move them along the toothed circle. In the place where the circle passes in the sled, we saw through a groove. Small parts can be stacked directly inside the sled and sawed off.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust is scattered from above, so it is a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust collector.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. Cut out the pusher from a piece of board or furniture board.

Design additions

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife that can be removed. Put on a protection for the disk, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly into the joiner.

Some craftsmen, assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you are not planning to cut at an angle, you can also remove all the tools for adjusting the blade tilt. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, thus saving several millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an inner cover, it is easier to remove the blade, the saw is less clogged with chips when working with damp boards. Disassembly takes extra time, but the engine resource is saved, overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary circular saw table, the second about a small portable structure:

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DIY hand-held circular saw attachments.

These simple and very useful hand-held circular saw attachments are -

parallel stop,
device for perpendicular cross-cutting and trimming of boards,
guide rail for cutting sheet material,
setting blocks for precise positioning of any guide and adjustable guide for angled sawing

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular saw and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and become a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

Second part of the video.

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It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and widespread operation is precisely longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most difficult element - the parallel emphasis.

So, a parallel stop is a movable part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece, and it is along this part that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop due to the fact that if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the curve of the saws may jam.

In addition, the parallel stop of the circular saw must be a rather rigid structure, since the master applies forces, pressing the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

There are various designs of parallel stops, depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point fixing (front and back)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design; · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the foreman needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when choosing the required stop position and, with frequent changeovers, is a significant disadvantage.
One point mount (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when fastening the stop at two points; · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to provide the required structural rigidity.
Fastening in the slot of the circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· The complexity of the design, · The weakening of the design of the circular table, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or can be used.
Screwdriver.
Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process of work, you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel bar with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The clamping force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely hold the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

Base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Circular production

Preparation of blanks

There are a couple of things to note:

planar longitudinal elements are made of pine, and not of solid wood, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end under the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can also just nail it in.

The circular saw used for work uses a self-made movable carriage from (or, alternatively, you can whip up a false table), which is not a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the cap.

As a result, we get a flat cylindrical workpiece, which needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

We start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

Base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping strips - the upper and lower ones - have one end, not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5 º). We have already observed these angles when cutting blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping strip. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping strips are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the movement and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding, in addition, you need to check the tightness of the sloped edges; there should be no gaps and cracks.

A tight fit will maximize the strength of the connection (fixing the guide).

Assembling the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already cut them to size, it remains only to refine the edges. This is done with an edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

Base of the longitudinal part

We also fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to keep the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the 90º angle, as the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Eccentric installation

Installing the guide

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the cross-stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

… And consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

There are a fairly large number of devices that you can make with your own hands for a circular saw.

How to make homemade circular saw attachments?

Materials and tools you will need:

Textolite or plywood.
Countersunk head screws.
Support bars.
Clamps.
Double-sided tape.
Hardboard.
Silicone spray.
Aluminum corners.
Paraffin.

Back to the table of contents

Making a guide

A plywood sheet that has factory edges that is even in length can be used to make a guide rail. To do this, cut a strip from the sheet with a width equal to the maximum possible width of the circular saw. Add 20 cm to the resulting value. The length of this sheet should be slightly greater than the maximum length of the material.

First of all, you need to retreat 6-7 cm from the factory edge on the prepared piece of plywood and cut off the strip. This strip will be a ruler along which the frame of this type of saw will move. The part of the cut plywood sheet that remains will serve as the base on which the ruler will be fixed. The saw moves along the ruler during cutting.

It is important to ensure that the height of the ruler is the same as the thickness of the saw frame.

The factory edge must necessarily be directed to the side where the cutting will be carried out. The guide is glued to the base and additionally secured with screws.

At the end, you need to remove the excess part of the base. This can be done using a circular saw. The edge made on the base will be the same length as the edge of the plywood sheet on the ruler.

It is very easy to work with such a guide. The base with a ruler is fixed to the workpiece, for example, on a chipboard. You can fix it using several options. In the first method, the cut part of the sheet will be located on the side of the saw blade, in the second method - under the base on which the guide fence is fixed.

Along the length of the sheet, 2 marks are made on the side that corresponds to the indicated cutting methods, at the distance where the cut is located. The distance between the marks should be as large as possible. It is important to take into account the thickness of the disc. The base of the ruler is set at two marks and secured with clamps. The depth of the clamp jaws should ensure their installation so that at the end of the cut the saw can freely go beyond the sheet.

If the guide fence is long, then the cross cut is not very convenient to make. Therefore, it is advisable to make a structure that will have a shorter length. For example, for cabinet cabinets that are 60 cm wide, you will need to make a 1 m long rail.

Such devices are suitable exclusively for working with materials that have a large width and length. It is impossible to cut the board into even beams of this design.

Back to the table of contents

Circular saw designs to help you make accurate cuts

If a saw blade of this type will leave torn fibers and chips at the edges of the cut, then you can try to make a structure to obtain a zero clearance. You will need to cut a piece of hardboard that is 6 mm thick. Next, you need to take the disc, lift the protective cover and glue the cut piece to the base. This can be done by using double-sided tape. Then the saw turns on and the blade slowly plunges into the hard hardboard so that it is possible to get a cut with zero clearance.

Based on the resulting base, you will need to cut with a small feed.

You can also make a special template. If you make a template, you can make accurate cuts anywhere. The design is intended for 15 cm wide boards, but it is not difficult to adjust the device to any size or angle.

The structure is made with a small allowance, after which the saw is pressed against the stop and the edge of the base is removed to the final length. The removed edge of the structure defines the line along which this type of saw will cut. A mark is placed on the board in the place where you need to saw it off. Next, you need to press the lower stop of the product to the edge of the material and align the edge of the base with the cut mark. By passing the tool through the structure, it will be possible to cut the boards with high precision.

Back to the table of contents

How to make a simple guide and cutting device with your own hands?

It makes sense to make a simple guide too. To cut with a portable circular saw, you can purchase an expensive guide from a home improvement store or make a few DIYs in the workshop if you need to cut a large number of sheets. However, you should be aware that there is a simpler solution - to make a fixture from scrap that is not used.

In order to make a guide for a saw with your own hands, you need to choose the factory edge of a strip of plywood or durable fiberboard 25-30 cm wide. The strip is fixed along the cutting line so that the base of the tool moves along an even edge. If a foam backing is used to protect the saw blade, then cutouts must be made in it for the jaws of the clamps.

You can also make a cutting device for a saw of this type. A clean and even crosscut is sometimes difficult to achieve with a circular saw. It is almost impossible to drive the tool perfectly evenly, and pieces of materials most often fly off, leaving behind chips and uneven edges. Therefore, it makes sense to try to make a cross-cut structure out of several pieces of wood and an aluminum corner.

It is necessary to assemble the base, for which to the upper side of a piece of wooden board or plywood with dimensions of 1.8x30x122 cm, glue and fasten with screws several parallel strips with dimensions of 2.5x5 cm.Using countersunk screws, you need to attach aluminum corners to the strips at an angle of 90 ° ... You need to fasten it at a distance that is equal to the width of the base of a saw of this type. The board will need to be adjusted so that it can cut through all the planks and make a shallow cut in the base.

The device is fixed with clamps on the workbench, the workpiece is inserted under the aluminum guides and the cut is made. It may be that the saw will not slide well on the guides. To solve this problem, you will need to use a silicone spray or paraffin wax.

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How to make a template for a guide with your own hands?

Guide rail for circular saws - it can be made from improvised means by the very method of filing a flat sheet of chipboard.

When you need to make long cuts with such a saw, it will take a lot of time to take all the measurements necessary in order to set the guide in relation to the marking line in exact accordance with the width of the base of the structure.

In order to simplify this procedure, you need to cut out a template from fiberboard, which is equal in width to the distance from the extreme part of the base of the tool to the inner edge of the saw blade. Next, the template is cut to the length of the tool base. In order to use the template, you must align its edge with the cut mark in the product, and attach a straight guide to the other side and secure it with a clamp.

A hand-held circular saw, or circular saw as it is commonly called, is a versatile and valuable tool in a craftsman's arsenal. It is irreplaceable when performing carpentry and joinery work. The main task is to cut sheet material, as well as cross and longitudinal cuts of sawn timber. The design of the saw allows you to get an accurate cutting line.

The circular saw is used for cutting sheet material, as well as cross and longitudinal cuts in wood.

To improve accuracy and facilitate the performance of work, various accessories and equipment are produced.
For all their advantages, they have a fairly high cost, which is not affordable for everyone. And sometimes they are difficult to buy and deliver to the right address, especially in areas remote from major cities. Therefore, a natural way out of this situation is to make the necessary device for the circular with your own hands.

Accessories for working with a hand-held circular saw can be very diverse: from primitive disposable stops to very complex and versatile devices. And if for the manufacture of the simplest devices it is enough only to pick up even pieces of thick plywood or boards of the required size, then more complex equipment will already be made with the help of tools.
Materials and tools

The material from which the circular saw attachments are made can be selected from scraps of thick (at least 10 mm) plywood or hard wood (for example, birch) at hand.
Of the tools you will need:

carpentry square for measuring and marking workpieces;

electric jigsaw or hand-held circular saw (for cutting blanks);

drill (drilling mounting holes for fasteners);

screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits for installing fasteners.

The process of making attachments for circular saws consists of several stages:
a sketch is being developed and detailing is being thought out;

material is selected;

marking and cutting of the material is carried out;

assembly and, if necessary, adjustment of devices.

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Circular saw guide

The simplest device is a guide bar. A straight, straight cut can be easily obtained. For manufacturing, you will need an even straight bar of the required length. He, with the help of self-tapping screws (if applicable) or clamps, is attached to the material being processed. The fastening must be carried out at such a distance from the required cutting line so that the position of the saw blade coincides with the markings when the side sole of the circular saw rests on the block. For a single cut, this method is suitable, however, when repeating the same type of operations, the procedure for marking and installing the bar will need to be repeated anew each time.
The guide bar can be improved by fixing it on a sheet of strong plywood with a thickness of 6-8 mm. One edge of the sheet during work will be aligned with the cutting line. At a distance equal to the distance between the saw blade and the edge of the circular saw sole (working distance), a guide bar is attached to the plywood with self-tapping screws. When working, it will only be necessary to combine the working edge of the plywood sheet with the cutting line and fix the opposite edge with clamps.

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Breakout protection: device nuances

The simplest devices can also include a bar fixed at the point where the saw blade exits from the workpiece. This will avoid such unpleasant effects as chips and tears. And if these defects will not play a role on the boards being cut, which will be used to make the frame of the house or formwork, then the sawing should be even and clean during the carpentry work.

For the manufacture of more complex universal devices, tools and a certain amount of materials will already be needed. The time spent on their manufacture will subsequently be more than compensated for by the ease of work, accuracy and ultimately saving the same time.

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Additional accessories

Blank template. If you need to make parts of the same type, you can use one of them as a guide template. For this, the workpiece is cut to the required length and a stop rail is fixed to one end of it. The width of the staff must match the working distance. When working with this device, the stop rail must fit snugly against the end of the workpiece. This way you can get a large number of parts of exactly the same length without spending time marking the cutting line.

Cut-off square. For permanent use, you can make a cut-off square. It consists of two massive wooden or plywood slats, fastened with self-tapping screws overlapping in the shape of the letter "T". The length of the protruding ends of the “T” bar is leveled to match the working distance of the circular saw. Placing the aligned end of the crossbar against the scribe line will produce an accurate perpendicular cut.

Edge stop. The standard set of the circular saw includes an angle (edge) stop. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. By using a custom-made edge stop, a cleaner and more precise cut can be achieved with a wider and longer base.

To make an edge stop, a stop strip and a base for a circular saw are cut out of 15 mm plywood. The keyways are selected in the base and the stop rail using a hand router. The dowels themselves are made from scraps of hard wood or from the same plywood and are attached to the grooves of the thrust strip. To strengthen the stop at an angle of 90 °, another rail of sufficient width is fixed to the stop rail, which will rest on the workpiece. Adjustment of the cutting distance from the edge of the workpiece is carried out by moving the stop rail along the guides, followed by fixation with a locking screw.

To install the screw, a through groove is cut in the base. It is recommended to use two screws to increase the cutting accuracy and increase the safety of work. A hole is made in the base plate for the saw blade and the attachment system for the circular saw is installed. The design of the fastening system can be very diverse and will depend on the specific brand of saw. A common point for all options should be a reliable fixation of the circular and the possibility of its dismantling from the device after the end of work. For the convenience of setting the required width of the cut of the material, a measuring tape is fixed on the front surface of the base of the device.

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Tool for cutting squared beams

For cutting a large number of identical bars, it makes sense to make a device called a saddle. It consists of three parts connected in the form of the letter "P" (back and two sidewalls). The width of the backrest must match the width of the bar to be sawn. The widths of the sidewalls are selected so that they can provide sufficient support for the edge of the circular saw sole until the saw blade enters the workpiece material. Also, in the sidewalls, it is necessary to provide grooves or holes for reliable fastening of the device to the timber being processed using clamps.

Work with this device is carried out as follows:

the cutting line is marked;

at a distance equal to the working distance from the cutting line, the device is exposed and fixed;

the cut of the bar is carried out by moving the circular along the side surface of the device.

The advantage of this device is that there is no need for readjustment when cutting a bar that is thicker than the overhang of the saw blade. For this, two saw passes are made from opposite sides.

The bar attachment design can be slightly improved by analogy with the modernized guide bar. To do this, bars are attached to one or both sidewalls at a distance equal to the working one, serving as an emphasis for the sole of the circular. This way, the edge of the side piece will be aligned with the required cutting line.