Build house from pieces of timber with their own hands. How to assemble the house from the bar itself

I wanted to build a house. Immediately collided with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but the house wanted to get reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the proposals of the modern building market, I decided to stay on

On the forums they advise to build houses from the section 15x15 cm. But I had to build myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I did not want to attract third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter bar. Instead, it bought a dry material with a cross section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood gives a shrinkage, I will warm the wall outside the mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

In order to further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story for an example of manual and navigate the situation.

Pouring foundation

At first I cleared the platform for the house from garbage, bushes and other interfering things. After that, it began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time, what type of foundation is suitable specifically for my locality. He studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. This helped me a specialistic reference book. Additionally, I asked the neighbors, on what foundations of their houses.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions allow you to save on the arrangement of foundations, therefore most of the neighbors have a house on lungs from limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse to reinforce - such here we have a wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, "buming" it is not. Water passes deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need for the arrangement of blunt monolithic supports in my region.

Began to do with a trench. To begin with, removed a fertile ball. It seemed sand. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then laid out the trenches with a stone and paved two reinforcement rods. Tied them in the corners. I think the ribbon is best reinforced both below and at the top. So did.

To save yourself from excess work, it would be possible to order a ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region it turned out to be unreal - there is no such proposals. Yes, and I have such a plot that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don't need this.

Alas, so save it is not in every region. For example, if I live somewhere in the suburbs, I would have to make a formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the construction mixture.

While concrete is gaining strength (and it needs to be 3-4 weeks), I will deal with the preparation of consumables.

Prices for bar

Learn more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Proper billet

The connection of the crown of the bar is performed using wooden brazing. I decided to make them from screaming boards left from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of roofing crate.

For copiers, it should be used as hard as possible wood. The process of manufacturing fasteners is extremely simple. I took the cutting board and braided them on one side with the help of the appropriate saw.

Then I put emphasis and started sawing into size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful billets.

Spaws saw with a ribbon saw. At the exit, I got a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I pointed the blank with an ax on each side and got my brand.

Preparation of moss

Brazen, peat moss sphagnum and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of a bar, professionals are usually insulated with rolled materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - it is enough to roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, for the convenience and ease of processing you have to pay.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. First, this material is full of nature - go, but collect. Secondly, Moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally stated thematic forums: Moss is actively used as an interventory insulation, and there are no negative responses about it.

For insulation, a red or peat moss is best suited. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second after drying becomes fragile. If possible, it is best to use a red moss. You can find it easy - these are long stems with leaflets resembling a Christmas tree.

Production of Kosyakov

I do them for every door and window openings. For this I use a smooth bar. Suchkov, if possible, should not be in general. For more convenience, I made improvised workbench directly near the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal propuls. In this, the disk saw helped me. Excess material removed with the help of the chisel.

Make the right cant forces not even every professional at the carpenter. Therefore, shoals for windows I decided to make a simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a pair of vertical shoals. The horizontal connection will be answered directly the window block.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, I came up with how to simplify the task. Instead of sample (in the photo she is shaded) I decided to glue the bar. For this, the plane is in advance. The result was not worse than it would be in a situation with the use of a quarter.

Reduce the number of jambs in the doorway can not - all four are needed. However, the shape of products can be significantly simplified.

I chose in Bruke, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the deepening in the side shocks. This allowed me to put on the lower bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to chop the eyes across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a disk saw, I prepared the propelles, pre-setting the appropriate disk output and making a parallel focus.

Then I took the first drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for copilyons. At the end, a smooth rectangle across wood fibers sawed. A saber saw helped in this.

Carpenters are usually done in the threshold two rectangular nests, and from the bottom of each vertical jamber, they are decorated with a response protrusion, firing and drinking excess wood with the help of the chisel. I decided to make holes, like for fasteners, and scored a pair of fasteners. Similar holes made at the bottom of the shoals.

The upper horizontal bar, I have not yet trottered, and a small board nailed to the threshold - it will take the "quarter" functions. The design of the opening was obtained extremely simple, however, it does not interfere with its main function. In the future, I put the opening and bow the "quarter".

Required tools

For the construction of a house from a wooden bar, I used the following tools and devices:

• unstressed electric drill;
• disk saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electrolake;
• corolnic;
• saber saw;
• plumb;
• a hammer;
• water hose;
• ax.

For cutting a wooden bar bought a disk saw. I had to saw in two approaches. First, by the carbon died line, after which I cut, turned the bar and reversed again. On the second face of timber, the line is best transferred, too, with the use of the coal. If you are confident in your "charming", you can saw "on the eye".

Using the disk saw, I made spikes and recesses for the corner connections of BRUSEV. When arranging spikes, I lacked a small depth of propil, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Build house

Line of the Lower Cross

Laying the starting crown is traditionally performed with a compound known as "in the floor of the tree". This node without any problems is made by disk saw - enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of the cut was insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which it got rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that connects with the help of nails.

Lower crown I put on the lining from the boards. Between the elements turned out to be gaps - in the future I will make a product there. In my region, they are usually in the wall, and not in a concrete basis. This option has its advantages. First, to do products in the wall easier and faster. Secondly, on some elevation, the wind moves with a greater speed than directly from the ground, so that the underground will be better ventilated.

Brous cutting. Connection "in Polterev"

On the lining, I'm going to mount the floor beams - as I think the load on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Lining and a lap of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid in the very bottom rotates faster. In my situation, there are lining down, and not a bar itself. In the future, if the boards are rotated, they can be replaced with much less effort than the Lower Cross.

Prices for saber saw

sabelnaya Pila

Features of laying the second and next crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I joined the timber with indigenous spikes - the usual adjoining of the elements here is unacceptable.

Taking a disk saw, steamed a pair of propilov. On the second face, the cut line was transferred with the help of a square. The indigenous spike is made easy, everything is demonstrated but in the photo. With insufficient disk output, the depth can be finished with hacksaw. The groove is still easier. Also demonstrated but in the photo.

Important remark! Consider that there should be approximately 0.5-centimeters in compounds of the type "spike groove" to lay a sealer. A compound in which wood simply concerns wood is unacceptable.

Previously, I set the depth of the depth. My saw can change the disk outlet without any problems - quite simply weaken the lever. Supplement is convenient in operation. If in traditional carpentry production, the wizard puts a parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of one-type blanks, then the situation is somewhat different in a carpentry.

My drank is equipped with a thin disc - for cutting it has to make much less effort. Safety casing moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My home the walls will be longer than the bar, so I have to splicing the building material. To do this, I did from both ends of a long bar on drowned, I removed the deer with the help of the chisel and got a spike in the middle. The protrusion is ready, now you need a groove. Chop the wood by a chisel across the fibers - it is impractical. I went to the cunning and drilled a simple through hole in the second timber. The length of the drill was not enough to create a pass-through hole, so I had to drill on both sides. Next, I cut off the blank of excess wood, made the markup and cut the bar along the fibers using the chisel. Connected spliced \u200b\u200bbars. The gaps scored moss.

Helpful advice. In the wedge, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to fully make spikes with a saw, you will need to additionally dod blind by the chisel to the completion of the process. In the next photo you see bars already with fastening spikes. The patterns of opening thresholds for doors are demonstrated as templates.

Put the second crown on the lower, competently by performing angular articulations and the necessary splicing in length. It's time to make marking for the installation of napillates - connector of the crowns of my house built at home. I took the square and put the vertical labels on the bars below and at the top, in the places of the future placement of fasteners. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my bar. After drilled holes for fasteners and drove into them with a hammer.

What you need to know about the impudent?

By logic in a round hole, it would be necessary to drive the round heap. Builders adhere to other technology and use the square sections. Such fasteners and in the manufacture more simple, and the connection hold much more reliable. At the same time, short bellhead will not interfere with the process shrinkage process.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a hand drill with a stronger vertical hole. When installing a bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly sticking heater, the first will be a little staggering. To the bar firmly fixed, it must be additionally siege to the sledgehammer.

Used by me stoles work on the section and provide the right shrinkage even if there are insignificant deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the bar will give a shrinkage. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, what I will talk about.

Once I had to observe how the builders did in the wall of the hole of the hole with the help of a long drill and ripped round long brazening, externally similar to the cuttings from the shovel or robber. Were there vertical such holes? Naturally, no. Ultimately, the bar is not donkey, but as if "hung" on the impudent, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having stolen, I laid the trunk and moss on the crown. Pokclock laid across the bars. Moss simply threw on the pass. As a result of the panel hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to pure the walls. Moss will provide a decent insulation of the structure.

I installed the bars on the brazening, put the pass, sketched Moss, besieged the crown of a sledgehammer, but for some reason he still fears. This is due to the presence of gaps in angular compounds. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I tightly filled them with moss. This helped me a spatula and narrow metal strip.

Attentive reader will ask: But what about the panel? Do not need to lay in corners and her? There is no need. First, as I said earlier, MOH is a very good natural antiseptic. My home will still stand for a long time without any finish finish, and the sediment moisture will continue to drain along the corners. Moss will not give wood to dig in these places. Secondly, in the future, the timber in the corners will have to be compatible. Moss will not interfere with this. Pacle can lead to a breakdown of the plane.

Prices for passion

Now my corners are strong, insulated and unproduced. At the end of the day I covered the angular compounds in order to protect them from possible atmospheric precipitation.

In the picture you see that one bar is located above, than the other. But they must be at the same altitude. We are not in a hurry to immediately include electricians - with such a problem it is quite possible to cope with the help of simple sledgehamps.

I worked at the wrong plane, when I became clearly visible to interference with the installation of the next crown. By the Rubankov, I compared small "screws" and "Pumps". More substantial differences in height compensated with the help of packle and moss - on their arrangement goes much less time than on the processing of wood by the plane.

What should we build a house!

With the basic principles of laying each crown, you have already become familiarized. There are important nuances. First, the crowns should be laid with alternating angular compounds. Secondly, the inner bearing wall of the house should be associated with a longitudinal wall. It is done through one crown. For binding I use a proven and familiar compound. Only here are the holes for brazen, I will drive the "chess" in relation to the lower crowns. After that, laying the pass and moss, and by placing each bar in the place intended for it, weaving compounds in the corners.

That is, the order of construction of the house is extremely simple:

• i lay the next crown;
• i make markup for coppins;
• drill holes;
• i drive the wooden fasteners;
• laying the pass, I throw moss on it;
• i repeat the sequence.

By the length of the bars with a mixture of the "Vravdka" method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (I have this seventh crown), I made a markup to arrange window openings. The width of each opening calculated by adding the size of the shoals and sealing gaps to the width of the purchased window block. On each side of the opening should be in a pair of gaps - between the jammer and the installed window block, as well as between the jacket and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the necessary width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, pre-enhancing the spikes in brushes, similar to the stage with doorways for doors.

The following crowns with the window opening laid out of bars without spikes, observing the same dimensions.

All window openings, I set up from the "short", which was absolutely violated in the process of shrinkage of the bar - for the walls such a material will not fit, and sorry to throw out. The jumpers did not. Highlighting the opening, he constantly checked his evenness with a plumb. Walls also checked.

Separate stench, I temporarily brought up with the help of the REC, so that in the process of work it did not fall. T-shaped design, as well as an angle in additional strengthening do not need - they are perfectly held in their own weight.

Important remark! In places of arrangement of spikes, the opening and the line was propyl, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not put the pass, because When picking, it would be wound on the cutting disk. In the future, the package without any problems is covered with the ends.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it should be temporarily put without fastening and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for spikes. They put on the jamb. Having placed the saw dial to the required depth, installed a parallel focus to withstand the desired deposit from the edge. Much time for such work I did not go. I could not cut the bar for the desired depth of the circular - I had to finish with a hacksaw.

In the lower wedge of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. In the last crown, this did not do this - in the future, the spikes would still have to create in each bar.

At the personal experience, I was convinced that the assembly of the entire height of the opening for the window without communication, while from the wrong "short", the task is not the simplest.

Lightweight and short trimming can be used to decay or spike. It may well be that on the bar, deviating to the left, will lay a bar with deviation to the right. As a result, a smooth wall will be built. If both bars will have a deviation in one direction, you can not count on the flat wall.

To eliminate deviations, it is possible to comprising "screws" with the plane, or lay the ladder bar. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using the plane. At each stage, the verticality of the extravagated openings was checked with a plumb.

Installation of jambs and completion of work

The upper crown laid. It is time to mount the shoals of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished design will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full spike. On the upper bars there are contrections in the required places. I apply the guide, I exhibit the desired cut depth and I do a disk saw. After that, I spend a couple of lines from the ends of the sizes of the spike and get rid of the excess material with the help of the chisel.

Spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. Clauses I fill thermally insulated M material. If you wish, you can make spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing at home, cut down the extra material and fill the gaps with the seal.

Inserted temporary struts between jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the upper crown of the bar before it starts. I also mounted a crown less.

Box ready. I covered it the temporary roof, closed each opening and left the house until the next season. The bar just will have time to give shrinkage. After that, I will continue what I will definitely tell you in my next story.

Instead of imprisonment

While the house gives a shrinkage, I decided to sum up. First, it was pleased that the foundation had to spend much less money if compared with the supports of other types. A little money went to the stone dump truck. Sand in my region is also very much - you can go on myself and bring. Most money went to cement and fittings.

Secondly, pleased with the available cost and relatively small consumption of building material. When the bar was brought, I posted it in a stack of approximately meter height and a two-meter width. At first it seemed that I was silent somewhere and I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 BRUSEV remained unfounded. In general, on the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (it accounts for a brusade in it 6x7.5 m) I spent about 7.5 m3 of the bar with a cross section 15x10 cm. 15x15 cm will spend money for 1.5 more. Yes, and additional labor would have to hire, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Magged did it myself, moss is free. I would gladly gave me friends after the end of our construction events.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized bathrooms and expensive tools. All I used for construction, I will be useful to the farm in the future. Especially happy to acquire a good disk saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of performance. I did not have a special experience of construction from the bar. As practice has shown, over the whole day, working in one hands and, subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can get it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not need to own any special skills. And I personally convinced this.

I hope my story will be useful to you, and you can, as well as I realize my dream about my own home.

Video - a house from a bar do it yourself

1208

I want to say a huge thanks to Alisra. I have not met such decent, honest, fast workers, and most importantly, they perform their work very high quality. The other day I ordered a building materials for the gazebo to the country. The question arose how to build it. At first I asked familiar who would advise. One brigade suggested me for 30 tr., The other generally put 40 tr. Then he decided to search for a prof.ru. Alisher responded to my application. We agreed for 10 tr. For 1.5 days I had a finished gazebo, all the neighbors began to ask the phone of my workers, how cool they made my arbor. He called her husband's husband, he was just a builder, appreciated the work very well.

Evaluation 5+

Tatyana, Volokolamsk

Order services: construction of houses.

We decided to change the builder's brigade and came across the questionnaire of Vladimir, what is very happy now, since Vladimir turned out to be an excellent foreman who always goes to a meeting, it is responsible for work, everything is performed on time and qualitatively, thank you for the work done. It is a pity that they did not meet it before when the construction began.

Evaluation 5+

Good afternoon who reads this review. I want to express a huge thanks to Romonenkov Denis Valerievich for the provision of services for the construction of the bath came to one call, everyone discussed themselves on a piece of leaf that it should be bought for construction, the material was supplied as much as necessary. I bought the fact that Denis wrote. Private builders on Monday began to build. Exactly in a week they put a bath, the guys builders are very neat (not ... as it happens) for what they are so much so much !!! In one word I recommend Denis, he is a real professional of his case !!!

Evaluation 5+

Alexander, Old Kupavna

Order services: construction of baths and saunas.

All perfectly! The guys responded to the request to correct the work of other builders (fix the poorly prepared ribbon foundation of the fence, align and abetonize the pillars, to equip the gate, consolidate the stakenat). All corrected quickly and efficiently. In addition, it was additionally set up for the work of correcting errors on the interior of the house. Recommend!

Evaluation 5+

Natalia., Istra

Order services: setting the gate. Construction of fences from Ershrokenik.

Konstantin Anatolyevich-Professional Builder, about such people say, a man in his place, built a beautiful two-storey house for the summer, while without finishing, but such, actually there was a task and it was 100% fulfilled. Completely, continue construction Such leadership. I will be pleased to recommend it to my friends, as it is absolutely sure that he will not let and the quality will be on top.

Evaluation 5

April 2016. Construction of an extension to the bath. At the first meeting, Alexey examined in detail the entire amount of work and for half an hour calculated the final value. With the price agreed. Signed a contract. Agreed on the order of work. A week later, Alexey began. Quickly quickly he elevated an extension frame. All the works were carried out in the stipulated initial time (which surprised us, the first time they saw the builders). It belongs to the work "with the soul". Heads recommendations. Improves akin deals and solutions. In general, we are satisfied with the results of Alexey's work. The first builder who is preparing for the result and is willing to adjust the situation. Recommended!

Evaluation 5+

Profiled wood with proper quality processing gives a brushless connection. The shutter from the elements of the groove is a cup of a cup of a dual-type labyrinth type tested by decades. The adjustment of premissive angular connections is able to turn the frame of the brusade house into the thermos without significant heat loss.

Cold bridges are blocked

Order a ready-made typical construction project of a cottage from a bar with reference to the region is beneficial. Select from savings on the network and adapt the technical project under the request by the designer. What is the advantage of the project:

• Get detailed calculation of material costs, components, cost of work;
• Questions of lack of material or the realization of the remaining surplus will not arise;
• Detailed drawings and positive assemblies will be removed from the labyrinth of errors;
• Transportation costs are optimized;
• Laying pipes and cables will not cause difficulties;
• The maximum cost of the standard project is 20 thousand rubles.

But the implementation of the idea rests in the need to hire the team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the seriousness of hidden flaws will turn out to be the first wintering.

How to be inexperienced in the construction of the average man, conceived to build a warm house from the profiled bar with their own hands? Order Domocomplekt at the local house-building plant and save this step with a solid amount and approach the period of settlement.

In essence, the household complex designer for the builder. The profiled bar is cut into size, the lobby tail plugs are made without gaps on the exact factory equipment, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.

In the attached video, the master jewelry enjoy a chainsaw for this purpose. But are they capable of reproducing the accuracy of the machine stream? It can be seen that the cuts are made approximately with a margin. Will they definitely be legally or moored non-coaching of louds? Doubt pushes a self-employment to occupation. And the cost of work will fall into a million amount than factory processing.

House from the profiled bar do it yourself

Benefit acquisition of a home complex from a profiled timber

The technological worker replaced the carpenter - that's what the mehowing thing means

The developer is limited in time, looking for the opportunity to reduce the construction of a brusade house. Let's figure out on points, whether the costs of cutting and sampling are reasonable:

• Get a chamber of chamber drying 10-16% humidity in sealed packages;
• Procedure treatment with a film-forming stabilizer induline. This means that the main channel of absorbing moisture is blocked, the crack of the crack does not disappear;
• Each detail is numbered, the instruction will indicate the assembly place;
• Fit and refinement are excluded, time is spent only on the process of assembling at home;
• Check prices on wholesale bases per cubic meter of a long profiled bar. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of the house complex coincides or more than 10% - which is where the benefit is hiding;
• A set of a bar on a house of 120 m 2 will cost about 650 000 r., In 190 m 2 - about 950 000 r.;
• The cost of assembly will be averaged by 25% of the cost of the bar. Order the reserve fund at their discretion;
• The chip thickness will be offered according to the climatic zone: the common size of a bar of 150 x 150 mm is suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, the wall thickness is less than 220-250 mm unacceptable;
• Installation will accelerate twice;
• The material is processed by an antiseptic and antipiren by 100%.

Complete set 100% from the base to the skate, such is a construction service

Ready household complexes from the manufacturer

Bookmark Fundament

Weight of 1 m 3 dried timber of coniferous rocks 0.5 tons. Roofing, inter-storey floors, furniture, wind and snow loads. Total mass will not exceed 40 tons for a two-storey house 10 x 10 m. The depth of groundwater and soil type affect the choice of the base.

The pile will accelerate the beginning of the grazing assembly. Column and fine-breeding foundations of time consumption: the volume of the removed soil is great. To prevent the wet of concrete, a compacted sandy bearing is made 0.3 m, over a gravel pillow.

Concrete foundation is poured in advance, not less than six months before the start of construction. Box reinforcement with a metal period Ø 12-14 mm will harden the monolith. After the polymerization of the concrete, the base should stand in order to reveal the soil when freezing and thawing revealed weak points or confirmed strength.

The layout of the foundation of the house is carried out according to the drawing. Corner basic points of external and internal conjugations require special attention. Accuracy is required in the location of the threaded mortgages. After removing the wall formwork and the upper face is deceived by waterproofer. Warming with polystyrene favor will extend the foundation of life. The backflow of clay is made with a bevel out.

Raise the house from the profiled timber

By level, align the upper edge of the foundation, we deposit 2 rows of rubberoid for waterproofing. We put antiseptic and processed bitumen mastics of the fifty-mastic boards of a larger format: they will cause lags.

The lower row is subject to disaggregation. I donate boards - it is easier to replace them. Along the layer of the insulation, we put the first crown. Special attention pays for the coincidence of the corners. Level, plumb, cord for testing diagonal do not release from hand.

In the sinuses of each row of the profiled timber and angular compounds of the outer walls are invested with a tape of the insulation. Wooden bent, scored with tension, strengthen the connection of the chub elements. Steel ties will cause the point of dew in the thickness of the material, provoke a premium and rotting. Therefore, they are used only to communicate a cut with a foundation.

Cold no loophole: barrier reliable

The installation of the lag under the draft floor is consistent with the size of a plate mineral wool insulation in increments of 0.6 m. Fastening to the bruster with reinforced corners and stabilizes the spatial lag on the suspension.

The splicing is allowed by the adhesive or imposition of a cropping zone with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m of each end. On both sides of the lags are sewn with OSP 9 mm plates or moisture-resistant plywood. Mandatory laying of a steaming membrane.

Interlated overlap of the black floor analog. The difference is only in the number of insulation that has become soundproofing. Partitions are mounted in one axis - a partial unloading of bearing walls is needed: In addition to its own weight, the roof transmits a wind load.

The skill of the assembly of walls from the profiled timber and partitions according to the drawings and instructions comes quickly. An important concern is not covered with a roof, protect the log house and unclaimed blanks from precipitation and humidity in bad weather.

In the heat and frost, the cracking of the naked water moisture is inevitable. The appearance of cracks will worsen the heat conduction indicator. Liquidation of damage - a long "pleasure" is not for one day.

Let's give the word Scandinavam

There is a lot of insulation, superior wood to save the heat. A profiled large-scale coat ram due to the abundance of waste, unsuitable for processing in building materials. Swedish builders went to reduce the cost of processes due to the inclusion of paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.

The use of smaller wood reduces costs up to 40%. The foamed breathable insulation seals joints, allows you to reduce the power of the heating devices even in the Arctic zone. Ideal at the cost and thermophysical properties in the panizol market.

Tested with a replacement of a wooden bar on a laminated analog of chipboard from chips. The heat insulator in 100 mM is the main load on heat resistant. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage also decreased. Often it makes sense in taking into service such a novelty.

Progress does not stand still

Know how to build, learn to wait

After you summarized the house under the roof, the windows and the doors were closed and left only slots for drafts (let it blow out an excess of moisture) you need to wait for the shrinkage. Under its own weight, the spikes of the bar will be deeper into the grooves of the structure. Pause lasts until six months. Windows, door boxes are waiting for its o'clock, otherwise it will break the design.

Now it's time to carry out additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that the costs of the profiled bar are reduced this way: a reduction in size by 50 mm in thickness and the width is presented with savings of 2-2.5 thousand rubles. per cube.

The only condition: natural and artificial materials with wire conductivity are used. Turn the housing into a foam box - we will destroy the tree, in the room we will arrange a bath. There will have to invest in forced ventilation.

Oh neither a profiled bar, and the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut - Leave as it is. The texture of the bar under the layer of varnish looks attractive. But, of course, the design of the modern stylish house requires a different approach.

As an option - plasterboard, fixed by vertical holders - hobs the flaws. There is a heat insulator and the house will not be terrified. While one floor is separated, the other will already become a residential.
Protection of the facade of the house from the profiled bar, as a regular event, will be crazy. Lucky, paints, impregnations burn out under the sun, lose protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about the ventilated facade. But the house collected from the bar, under the plastic facing loss the charm of natural material.

Outcome: your own roof over your head

Conclusion

Building a house from a bar on its own for the summer season is a sinking task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this is the only wishes of the manufacturer. The implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the performer in one person ensures compliance with your expectations.

All photos from the article

A modern house from a profiled timber is a very reliable structure with high performance characteristics. The naturalness of the material makes this option much more attractive than the majority of others, and the possibility of implementing any ideas will make it possible to realize the most original ideas. In this review, we will consider which nuances should be considered in the process of assembly and what criteria should be guided by selecting a specific option.

Pros and disadvantages of this option.

To begin with, we will understand which advantages have a profiled timber:

Ecology	Wood - renewable natural material, which does not have a negative impact on human health and the environment. The property of the material to absorb moisture from the air and give it to always keep the optimal microclimate in the premises, so accommodation in such a house has a positive effect on the body
Budget	The price of this material is quite attractive, while the quality is much better than ordinary unprocessed materials. Experts estimated that the total cost of building a house from a profiled timber will be lower than when using bricks or other materials
Simplicity of work	The house assembly from the profiled bar is quite real, but it is important to consider one recommendation - buy a ready-made set for one or another project, then you will have instructions at hand, and you can cope with several people with work in a rather short period of time.
Attractive	If you have acquired a qualitatively processed material, the internal finish of the house from the profiled bar will only be applied to the decorative protective coating. You do not need to spend time and very solid funds for the purchase of finishing materials, which further increases the attractiveness of the project.

Important!
Remember one simple recommendation: in the course of work, you carefully contact the elements, do not go on them and do not put on the dirty surfaces, otherwise you will subsequently you will have to delete all these contaminants using sandpaper.
It is much easier to observe accuracy and do not fulfill extra work.

For building houses from a bar, certain carpentry skills are needed. The construction process is carried out in several stages. Laying a profiled timber should be carried out on the developed technology to achieve a better result. Important is the implementation of appropriate calculations and the choice of quality materials. Work carried out by experts will help build a house as soon as possible and save costs.

Laying of a profiled bar for proper technology will provide high quality construction source Tiu.ru

Preparation of foundation

To build houses, the optimal foundation is considered to be tape. For its arrangement, stones, vegetation are retracted, hill and pits align. When the site is equalized, the marking of the territory is carried out. After that, the trench is rotated, the depth of which depends on the height of the wideline building and soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled timber is quite light, so a small-breeding foundation can be used for a single-storey building.

For construction of several floors or construction on unstable soil, the foundation must comply with the level of soil freezing. On average, this indicator reaches 1.2-1.5 m.

For foundation, the following materials are needed:

concrete, sand, crushed stone;

formwork;

reinforcing bars.

Any house begins with the preparation of the foundation. Source Penza-press.ru.

The trench falls asleep with sand and rubble, the rods are stacked for reinforcing the foundation. To connect the rods, it is recommended to use a knitted wire, not welding. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is poured with concrete. Cement, sand and crushed stone are used for the manufacture of concrete solution - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials 1: 3: 4, cement brand at least 400. The foundation is set about 2 weeks.

Laying of the first row

For construction, only even and whole bars are used, which have no visible defects. Laying timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used if gray sections or stains are detected on it, it is impossible to apply them. In the process of construction additionally stacked Ruberoid, bitumen, braided and antiseptic.

For the strength of the structure, for fastening the bar are applied Source MyVideosait.ru.

The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, on top of the rubberoid, the width of its at least 20 cm is greater than the foundation, the edges are smoothly hanging on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future structure from moisture. At all joints, the rubberoid is stacked with an overlap 10 cm, the bitumen is well absorbed and pressed. Before assembly, you need to determine the type of connection at the corners. It is advantageous to be a cutout at the top bar of the lower part, and at the bottom, on the contrary. This embodiment allows you to save on the material, and the ends will not go beyond the corners of the building.

All work assembly work begins with marking and further cutting of the harvested material. Before assembly, the tree is processed by an antiseptic, dried and only then in it drilled holes every 50 cm along the bar. Two bars are stacked on both sides, on top, they are made at the ends of the groove. The row is leveling, and the angles are cooked, the protrusions are corrected by the plane.

Source Giropark.ru.

After fixing the first row, the assembly of the house from the bar implies the installation of floor overlap, as well as the base of the walls. 15x10 beams are used. In the bars, 40 cm grooves are cut off from the inside (it is recommended to use "T"--like grooves), the ends of the beams must be trimmed. This method of insertion increases the strength of the compounds. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally to be in the same plane.

Marking Bruus

1 - joints;

A, c / d, in - longitudinal / transverse walls;

E - partitions.

Walls can be erected from solid timber and dough, partitions / transverse - from a solid bar. In the longitudinal wall there is a 15 cm in the floor. To obtain the most accurate and identical sizes and cutouts, it is best to use templates that will help to quickly conduct the process and move the contour.

All marking on the bars do one template. Source Pinterest.Ru

Coupling, drilling holes, insulation

To connect each crown, used beaged from wood or metal. From the end of the timber, they are located at a distance of at least 25 cm, and then through each 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest should be used at least two copiers, the length of which is at least one and a half times more than a bar. Begroes need to burst into a tree for several centimeters.

Holes a little smaller diameter so that they are tight. The depth of the hole for several centimeters is more used. For drilling, a drill with a limiter is used to all sizes are the same. The seal is carried out with a tape of a special insulation. The tape is pulled over the entire surface of the bar in several layers, fixed with brackets. Outside, if the wall is not trimmed, the gasket is done at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not go.

The timber is stacked by each other, the edges are fixed with copper source RWHOUSE.RU

Walling

The log house can be removed in several ways:

in paw or bowl - for round logs;

on the indigenous spike - for a rectangular cross section, a time-consuming method, but provides a high density of the joints.

Used bent can be made of wood or metal. Standard dimensions height 12-15 cm, thickness 2.5 cm, holes for them must be several centimeters deeper. The stacked row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is stacked and the next crown of logs is stacked on top, then beaten brazily. In the insulation can perform a pacle, felt or jute. The fixation of materials is carried out by the steppeller. When several rows were collected, opening boards for windows and doors, holes are made on cutting holes to provide air exchange. The last two rows are made grooves for the ceiling.

At a sufficient level of laying of a bar drinking openings for windows and doors Source ISKONA.org

When assembling the walls, it is necessary to take into account the fact that in fact all the bars will be different from millimeters from each other, which can negatively affect the result. Therefore, to make a smooth side to get only from the inside or outside. Sometimes a twisted or twisted timber will fall. It is recommended to cut into small segments, and the second to be used at all for various cozpostroops on the plot, bath or use for other purposes. The timber-twisted in the same plane cannot be used for the walls, expecting it levels under the weight of other materials - it will not be. The cruster curve can be laid in the wall only aligning it horizontally with sequential fixation of the anticipation.

In the process of work, the assembly is constantly carried out, and the following parameters are monitored. In case of detection of any deviations, further work is terminated until the problem is fixed. Special attention is paid to the height of the corners and verticality. In case of problems with the verticality, the problem is eliminated until the replacement of BRUSEV. At the same time, the height of the angles can be adjusted by laying between the crowns.

All corners in the house, vertical and horizontal, must have 90 ° Source Cocinandote.com.

Building a brusade house can be carried out in two ways to lay a bar - with or without a residue. In the first case, you can get a warmer and sustainable house with the most simple construction scheme. However, the material will be spent with a large amount of waste, an increased price of laying and a smaller area area. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or entertain siding. In the second case there will be no convex walls, so it is possible to carry out additional finish and insulation, the total space increases inside. But it is very important to adhere to the entire technology so that the house is not blocked.

Operactions for doors and windows

The formation of the doorway begins with the 2nd crown, the height to the window is minimum of 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. "Chernovaya" open preparation for the creation of the opening. The opening itself is placed on the installation after the shrinkage of the bar. The assembly of the structure is accelerated, the bars are mounted for fastening of common.

Source krsk.au.ru.

In the second embodiment, it is immediately placed on the installation, a decks are put, which connect the bar and perform slopes. If metal-plastic windows are installed, then the decks can not be set. In the ends on the mind, a vertical groove is made, where the rail is inserted. Reiki / decks are made by 5-7 cm less opening so that it does not interfere with the shrinkage.

Installation of windows and doors at the "Chernov" opening is carried out with its fixing on the appropriate sizes. The joints are compacted with the help of the insulation, it must be nailed at the angle. Then the window box is inserted, it is fixed to the decks with self-draws, top view for shrinkage, it is filled with a mild insulation.

When installing the window box, you must leave the shrores for shrinkage. Source Patter.ru

Build roof

The beams fall at a distance from each other 90-110 cm if the attic is used as a residential premises, then 15-20 cm beams are used, not residential - 10-15 cm. After the fastening of the support racks and rafters is carried out. For the crate, the boards are about 15 cm wide and a maximum thickness of 2 cm. The distance between the rafters is completely dependent on the weight of the overlap, the standard 1.2 cm, the mount is carried out by self-draws or nails. Fasteners of support racks are paid to maximum attention. Waterproofing lies on the crate, and then roofing.

Video Description

Briefly, the process of building a house from a bar displays this video:

On our site you can find the contacts of construction companies that offer the service of building houses from a profiled turnkey bar. Directly to communicate with representatives, you can visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-rise country".

Conclusion

Laying the profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare high-quality material and comply with all the construction technology. Only in this case, you can get a good, warm and durable house, bath or other building. The profiled bar is distinguished by a favorable price and light weight, so it allows you to further save on the foundation.