Building from a bar of a house. Build a house from a bar with your own hands

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing a material will be relevant.

The most budgetary option would be to build a house from a bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will turn out to be warm enough, durable and strong.

Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose a bar with a section of 150x150 mm.

But in the event that you do not want to attract additional labor, such lumber as dry timber 150x100 mm is suitable for you, which, after erection and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in thermal insulation to other buildings from a bar of a larger section.

Construction stages and foundation erection

And so, the material has been purchased, we start building the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the foundation area;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be piled, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to the laying of the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what the bar laid in the crowns is fastened to each other. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).

With a timber size of 150x100 mm, pins with a length of about 12 cm are suitable. Also, the technology of laying the timber requires laying a mezhventsovy insulation. Usually these are roll materials such as jute, tow or moss can also be used.

On the advice of experts, you should use fresh red or peat moss that has lain for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future house should be made of larch, which is not subject to decay. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The beam of the first crown is fastened to each other, by a technique known as "half a tree" - at the ends of the beam, a saw cut is made up and down. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot with staples or nails.

Methods for attaching the timber to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base into its top layer, bolts with bent or cone-shaped bases are mounted. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. For each element of the first crown there should be at least two bolts.

Before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation in the timber of the first crown.

A pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and fixing it on the foundation studs with washers and locknuts, bring the horizontal in level so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we proceed to the construction of the walls.

To do this, you need a variety of tools:

Note!

• Gasoline or electric saw;
• Hand circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Ax;
• A hammer;
• Schurovert;
• Perforator;
• Plane.

Consumables are also needed - nails, self-tapping screws, mezhventsovy insulation, fire-retardant impregnations.

After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, we proceed to the construction of the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall of the required height is obtained.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. The next stage is the final erection of the walls under the roof.

Roofing and flooring

We strongly do not recommend saving on material for installing the roof. This part of the house can be made in several versions:

• Single slope;
• Gable;
• Hip;
• Tent;
• Semi-hip;
• Multi-pliers;
• Vaulted and tambourine roofs.

It all depends on your desire, money and the complexity of the rafter system.

Note!

The floors and ceilings in the house are also not an unimportant stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and basements.

Diy photo of a house from a bar

Note!

Environmental friendliness and high quality characteristics are inherent in wooden housing construction. Our grandfathers collected whole houses from round timber, the beauty of which is still delightful. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid, the wooden blockhouse is not afraid of fires and fungus. It is easier to use a bar of the correct shape for installation on your own. How to make a log house from a bar with your own hands, the main stages of installation, the rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.

We design your house

Before assembling a house from a bar, you must choose the right project. Log buildings are assembled according to standard or individual designs, they can differ in architectural complexity or have simple shapes. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, then we recommend opting for a standard project, which has advantages:

1. The log house has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main disadvantages.
2. The material for production is used as economically as possible, so the price for a finished box is cheaper.
3. It is easier to choose a finishing material and a roof, as you can see with your own eyes several finished houses and talk to the owners.

When choosing an individual design, timber is also the most suitable material. It has the correct shape and fits any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to assemble wooden boxes of the most complex and unusual shapes.

Choosing a timber of the desired section, any project can be easily adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. For a garden or country house, material of a small section is suitable: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence, a bar with a section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The simplest option is a square section - 150x150 mm. The square shape allows you to quickly assemble the walls without selecting the technical and external sides. But on condition that the timber is simple. In this case, a section of 150x150 mm must be insulated.

One of the economical options is profiled material. The spike and groove on the technical sides of the timber are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier to the wind. The walls are insulated with a tape heat insulator, right during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally sanded, then after assembling the box, you only need to walk along the walls with paint and varnish and the house is ready for living.

A separate group is made of glued sawn timber. This bar consists of lamellas, which are interconnected under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists still argue about the environmental friendliness of glued sawn timber. From the positive stand out: high strength of the walls and increased thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building made of glued material, a section of 100x100 mm is suitable, at winter temperatures up to -15 degrees, additional wall insulation is not needed.

When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further finishing work depends on this, which means additional material investments.

Where to start?

When the project is selected, the assembly of a log house from a bar begins. The base of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Since the material is light, any type of foundation is suitable:

1. Columnar;
2. Tape grillage;
3. Tape.

We do not recommend a monolithic one, since this is the most expensive option, which will be profitable only if the soil is mobile and strongly crumbling. For loose soil with a high occurrence of groundwater, a pile or columnar foundation is suitable. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? It is wise to use screw piles. It is easy to mount them with your own hands, and there will be less “walking” in the future. But, choosing a columnar or pile foundation, it is worth understanding that in the future, the basement of the house will have to be additionally framed and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and the heat loss after the basement is insulated will decrease by 15%.

One of the most popular types of foundations for a wooden blockhouse is strip. It got its name for its external resemblance to a concrete tape rolled on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is related to the characteristics of the groundwater.

With a high level of groundwater occurrence and freezing in winter by more than 1.2 m, a tape-grillage option can be used. The structure combines a concrete strip, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. Moreover, first the piles are poured, then the formwork is made under the strip. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubic capacity of the foundation, this will reduce the cost of concrete.

A detailed technology for assembling a strip-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.

Lego for adults

The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in sealed packaging, it will be easier to assemble it with your own hands. It is difficult to assemble your house from a solid bar without experience and skills, since the correct connection of the corners is required. But more on that below.

Strapping

Before laying the first crown, the foundation must be waterproofed. The tree is hermetically sealed, and through microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work you will need materials: bituminous mastic (price from 350 rubles) and roofing material (price from 220 rubles)

Waterproofing is carried out as follows:

1. From above, the foundation is coated with hot bitumen mastic.
2. The first layer of roofing material is rolled out from above. When docked, the material is overlapped.
3. Roofing material is again coated with bituminous mastic.
4. The finishing layer of roofing material is rolled out.

The width of the roofing material should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing material can later be hidden under the plinth trim.

First crown

The first crown of the log house is laid on the level of the dried out waterproofing. In cross-section, the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.

The first crown of a log house is the most important in the design, therefore, to increase durability, it is worth overpaying for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and in 90% of cases is not suitable for construction.

Before laying, the first crown is covered with protective compounds (Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles / l). The first crown is laid on unfolded slats or a lining board. The slats are laid in increments of 30-40 cm across the foundation strip, the boards are sewn to the base using metal pins. The slats are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the strapping, which creates additional ventilation. The wooden strapping is attached to the foundation with metal anchors. But the box is attached to the base only in light Large houses with several floors are quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.

We fold the box

It is not difficult to build a log house from a ready-made kit, but you will have to tinker with a solid timber. There are several options for corner joints of a bar with a remainder and even:

1. Paw assembly. At the ends of the timber, spikes and nests are cut out for them. It has disadvantages: it is blown out, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
2. Dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. Minus the difficulty drank.
3. Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below for the upper link. The upper crown fits into the bowl and creates a sealed connection. Cons: You need skill and a special cup cutter.
4. Half a tree. Half of the section is cut in each end part. The upper crown fits into the resulting nest. Disadvantages are blow-through and unreliable connections. To increase grip, a key is made of wood, which connects the ends.

Cornering with the remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and the timber are additionally connected to each other using dowels. Nagel is used wooden or metal. The latter option is more reliable, but when the log dries up, cracks form in the walls, and metal pins spoil the appearance of the house. Wooden dowels can be made independently from the remnants of lumber or birch. The dowels will give the structure additional strength, and will not allow the timber to twist when it dries. Dowels are attached to every two crowns, skipping one, in increments of at least 150 cm.

Jute insulation is rolled out between each bar (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then there is a special groove between the spikes and grooves for laying the tape insulation. If joints of a bar are needed along the length, then a joint in a root spike is used. The essence of the connection is in the saws of the thorn and groove, which are securely connected and additionally fastened with pins.

Internal partitions in a log house can be skipped immediately. They are made with a material of a smaller section and are attached to the main walls. But if you plan a two-story log house from a bar with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as additional support.

Sub-floors can be laid immediately. They further serve as the basis for a warm "cake" of the finished floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, polystyrene can serve as a floor insulation. The most inexpensive option is to use polystyrene, it will give additional sound insulation between floors.

It is not recommended to cut out window and doorways in a log house right away. The structure must stand. Even chamber drying during the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural humidity at least 10%. Before inserting the frames, a jar is made, which will give the structure more strength and will not allow distortions to occur during the walking of the ground.

Choosing a roof and roof

Until complete shrinkage, a rough roof is erected. If the timber is chamber-dried or glued, then the shrinkage is insignificant and you can proceed to the finishing roof. Any material is suitable as a roof: corrugated board, ondulin, soft tiles. The most economical option for garden houses is roofing material or slate. The pitch of the lathing will depend on the choice of the roof. The softer the roof and the flatter the roof, the more often the lathing is done. For example, a thin plywood backing is made under the soft tiles.

The roof structure is selected individually. But the fewer bends and angles in the structure, the more reliable it will be. The simplest option is a gable roof or a gable roof, they are assembled with their own hands.

The rafter system is assembled from the laying of ceiling logs. A bar with a section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and the frame of the rafter system are assembled from material with a section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is placed on top of the wall. A bar with a section of 150x150 mm is taken as a Mauerlat. The most difficult thing in installation is to install the first rafters and a matrix. You can fasten the rafter system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. The lags and the Mauerlat are connected to each other using a thorn-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.

The finished roof is insulated and waterproofing is done. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next, proceed to additional insulation and finishing. The wooden house will shrink completely after three years. This time is not recommended to carry out grandiose design finishing work, but it is already possible to live in the house.

What how much

As you know, the road will be mastered by the walker, but the owner's hands are not always sharpened for construction work, or the work eats up all free time. Specialists will complete the assembly of the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of the work will be high. Installation price will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard log house installation services:

1. Full construction.
2. Simple assembly.

The service differs in the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (casting, formwork), box assembly, rafter system, roofing, subfloors and ceilings, installation of windows and doorways, all internal partitions. A simple assembly can include individual jobs. For example, the foundation is made by hand, and the box and rafter system are assembled by specialists.

The decision to build a house from a bar is not made immediately and not suddenly. It's just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, a 195 mm thick bar is enough. With such a thickness of the outer walls, it will be warm, but to save on heating, it is better to insulate it (outside of 10 mm mineral wool) and make a reclaimable facade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

For the construction of a house, coniferous wood is usually used. There are several reasons. First, the high content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Due to their presence, wood is not destroyed for a long time. Secondly, the affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak timber, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to handle.

Of all the conifers, most often they put a house from a pine bar. With good performance, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely installed: they are too expensive. Spruce is even less common, but for a different reason: it is destroyed the fastest of all, and even difficult to process. So with regard to the type of wood, there is actually no choice. 95% is pine. But it is necessary to understand the type of timber.

By the method of processing, the timber can be:

• Plain or solid, non-planed timber. Sawed from a solid log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
• Profiled timber. It is also cut from a solid log, but after that it is processed: spikes and grooves are formed by cutters - profiles, with the help of which one bar is joined to another. The side faces are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. Section - complex shape. The side faces can be smooth, rounded, curly - with chamfers, the shape of a "lock" - numerous barbs and notches.
• Glued laminated timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's analyze the features of each type of timber, regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from a bar, then they definitely understood an ordinary rectangular bar. There was simply no other, or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable price per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may turn out to be higher than from the profiled one. It's all about the features of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from a non-planed beam, a mezhventsovy heater is necessarily used. Its geometry is imperfect, and if this is not done, blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be sooooo strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and you cannot do without finishing inside and out.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. Caulking is needed not one, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood of natural moisture. In practice, this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a "decent" look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-lead seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to grind the timber, what to do with the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house as a result may be higher: add to the cost of the timber an inter-crown insulation, caulking material and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Note also that moldings are brought to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut out on the spot. This means that the qualifications of the carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in a log house, it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of the profiled bar

Considering the profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is the almost perfect geometry and smooth surfaces. In any case, it should be so. With good workmanship, finishing is not needed: the wall immediately turns out to be even and smooth, even if immediately for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks) of through slots cannot be. Producers of profiled beams say that walls can be laid without a spacer insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few listen to them. They put at least thin, but insulation. Someone uses a thin substrate under the laminate, someone uses self-expanding tape for mounting plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most widespread profile among developers lately is “comb”. It can have a "tooth" of different heights and widths, and is loved by everyone because, in theory, it is impossible to "blow" it. Nevertheless, here they are insured by laying insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two extreme ones on the right in the picture are glued timber, but the same profile is made from the solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having made the decision to build a house from a bar with a profile, you need to decide on its moisture content. Profiled timber can be of natural moisture (cheaper), sometimes it is chamber drying with a moisture content of no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber of natural moisture have already been considered, now let's talk about chamber drying. The company installs large drying ovens into which ready-made profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of high temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all processes occur in the chamber that usually accompany the drying of wood: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part of it goes to waste, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem to be clear.

If you decide to build a house from a kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house still has to stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks rarely form, only existing ones expand. But it should be borne in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while wood is considered to be 8-12% for chamber drying.

In any case, gaps will be required. Caulking is needed in very limited volumes: first of all, you will have to look through all the corners and cuts, if any (this is the name of the attachment points of the walls). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly when it comes to gaps. Also, the timber can be turned out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of the gap. So periodic revision of the corners is also required during operation. Wood is a living material, and something will change all the time. Also, after a year of sludge, too large cracks in the timber will have to be repaired (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The blockhouse is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

It may be easier with the assembly. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from a profiled bar, as from a usual one, on the site. But many enterprises, in the presence of a project, offer to take on part of the work. With the help of a special program, they make a layout on the timber: they make a list of "spare parts" from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut, and with molded thickets. The blanks are numbered and brought ready-made to the site, where it remains to fold the house, like a designer: folding the bars according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying for carpenters: assembling such a highly qualified designer is not required. Only in this case, whether your home will be warm or not, depends on how exactly the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are firms that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulking will badly save

In general, there are disadvantages and advantages, but compared to a conventional bar, a profiled one is more convenient in construction, and at a price it can also come out cheaper if you count with finishing.

Glued laminated timber

The name makes it clear that it consists of glued parts. First, lamellas are cut out, they are treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain moisture content, and then glued. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag of this material is about 2.5-3 times higher than that of a conventional one and 80-90% higher than that of a profiled one.

What are its advantages? Correctly made, it does not crack, it does not lead: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content of no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be used for painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is also carried out at the enterprise (it should, in any case).

What does glued laminated timber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that the folded frame can be immediately put under the roof in a few weeks, and after a few more weeks, finishing can be started. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, a significant time saving is obtained - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But is glued bead so good? In terms of construction speed, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This negates one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Second, it has low vapor permeability. Many people put up wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber is deprived of this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only an attractive appearance remains, but finished with a clapboard of the appropriate profile or block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of glued beams for building a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house from a bar

A log house has several advantages:

• The walls are lightweight, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs for its construction will be lower.
• Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows making shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of the type of foundation depends largely on the soil, but most often they do it, if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings for temporary residence - summer cottages, baths, etc.) or without). The choice should be based on the results of geological studies. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is "seized", prepare the wood. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Compositions are used that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After the preparation of the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

• Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent the wood from the foundation from pulling moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat, stick roll.
• Laying the flap. The beam is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Desirable - from the middle part of the tree - with the maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure the best preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: a wide board impregnated with bitumen mastic with working off is laid on the waterproofing. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and on top is already the first crown. All these layers are connected to the foundation by pins, which are embedded in the foundation.
• Rough floor. Floor logs are attached to the first crown - a bar with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid out with a step of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, boards of the subfloor are laid out on the logs without nailing them.
• Assembly of walls from a bar. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are "slaughtered". Saw out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, outlined, then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of ownership of the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the saw. The joint shapes of the timber are shown in the picture.

We have already spoken about laying the mezhventsovy insulation: when using a regular bar, it is mandatory, under profiled - it is desirable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are connected to each other by dowels - long round bars carved from a solid piece of wood, dowels - rectangular in shape or pins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection into which the connecting element is hammered.

• The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When the device is simple, the truss legs are installed, with the order different. A windproof membrane is rolled out and fixed onto the assembled rafter system. In this form, the house is left for a long time to dry out.
• Door and window openings. For speedy shrinkage and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, put a window or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not placed until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can start finishing work. All the time, while the frame is being settled, it is necessary to monitor the processes taking place in the wood. It is immediately necessary to inspect the corners and, if necessary, drill them. Then monitor their condition, as well as the joints of the bar. If the pins were driven in with great effort, during shrinkage, the timber may hang on them, which causes cracks to form. You can solve the problem by rambling around: they take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house sits down too slowly.

The video shows the main steps on how to build a house from a bar. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from a bar: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit according to the project, a strip foundation was poured under it.

Billets were brought with washed down bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting for flaws. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the ligament and suffocated - it became covered with a fungus. It was postponed for a separate "treatment". The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and piled up.

So that there are no problems with the fungus, a gasket is laid under each - boards lying across.

Also, rolls of insulation and dowels were purchased. Nageli was sent to swim in the impregnation. They poured impregnation into the old bathtub and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

The first crown was laid out on the waterproofing laid on the foundation - a half-beam. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called "zero".

We measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to fit without problems and there is no distortion, they must be equal. Allowable misalignment is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. So that there are no holes larger / smaller than necessary in length, a limiter tree was planted on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them with pins in a checkerboard pattern.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly washed down cups. When laying the timber, we get a huge gap. The fight against this is only to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies flat.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Profiled timber walls kicked out

We start assembling the rafter system. First, as is customary, the two extreme farms are installed, then - everything else, according to the project.

The finished crate was sheathed with roofing material. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the boards of the subfloor, nailing every fifth one. They will dry with the house.

Related Videos

The mistakes that are made when building houses from a profiled bar are described in detail and discussed in this video. Very useful. Take a look.

Profiled wood with the proper quality of processing gives a gapless connection. The shutter made of groove elements - the tongue of the labyrinth-type double cup lock has been tested for decades. Fitting gapless corner joints can turn the frame of a log house into a thermos without significant heat loss.

Cold bridges blocked

It is profitable to order a ready-made standard project for the construction of a cottage from a bar with reference to the region. Select from the savings in the network and adapt the technical project to the request by the designer. What is the advantage of the project:

• Get a detailed cost estimate for material, components, cost of work;
• Issues of lack of material or sale of the remaining surplus will not arise;
• Detailed drawings and subassemblies will lead you out of the maze of errors;
• Transport costs are optimized;
• Laying pipes and cables will not cause difficulties;
• The maximum cost of a standard project is 20 thousand rubles.

But the implementation of the idea rests on the need to hire a team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the seriousness of hidden flaws will become clear during the first winter.

How can an ordinary man, inexperienced in construction, be planning to build a warm house from a profiled bar with his own hands? Order a house kit at a local house-building plant and save a substantial amount by this step and bring the settlement date closer.

In fact, a house kit is a constructor for a builder. The profiled timber is cut to size, the dovetail type connecting locks are made without gaps on precision factory equipment, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.

In the attached video, craftsmen use a chainsaw with jewelry for this purpose. But are they capable of replicating the precision of a machine tool production line? It can be seen that the cuts are made approximately, with a margin. They will surely caulk or foil inconsistencies in the cuts? Doubt pushes to engage in self-construction. And the cost of work will result in no less amount than factory processing.

Do-it-yourself house made of profiled timber

Benefits of purchasing a house kit from a profiled bar

Technological worker replaces carpenter - that's what machining means

The developer is limited in time, he is looking for an opportunity to reduce the cost of building a log house. Let's figure out whether the costs for cutting and sampling are reasonable:

• You get kiln-dried wood with 10–16% moisture content in sealed bags;
• End-face treatment with INDULINE film-forming stabilizer. This means that the main channel of moisture absorption is blocked, the web of cracks will not disfigure the cut;
• Each part is numbered, the instructions will indicate the place of assembly;
• Adjustments and modifications are excluded, time is spent only on the assembly process at home;
• Check prices at wholesalers per cubic meter of long profiled logs. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of a house kit is the same or more expensive by up to 10% - this is where the benefit is hidden;
• A set of timber for a house with an area of \u200b\u200b120 m 2 will cost about 650,000 rubles, for 190 m 2 - about 950,000 rubles;
• The cost of assembly is averaged 25% of the cost of the timber. Dispose of the reserve fund at your own discretion;
• The thickness of the log house will be offered according to the climatic zone: the common size of the timber is 150 x 150 mm, suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, wall thicknesses of less than 220–250 mm are unacceptable;
• Installation will be accelerated twice;
• The material is treated with 100% antiseptic and fire retardant.

Complete set 100% from base to ridge, such is the construction service

Ready-made house kits from the manufacturer

Laying the foundation

The weight of 1 m 3 of dried coniferous timber is 0.5 t. Roofing, interfloor ceilings, furniture, wind and snow loads will be added. The total weight will not exceed 40 tons for a two-story house 10 x 10 m. The depth of groundwater and the type of soil affect the choice of the basis.

The pile will speed up the start of the assembly of the frame. Columnar and shallow foundations are laborious: the volume of excavated soil is large. To prevent the concrete from getting wet, a compacted sand bed of 0.3 m is made, on top of a gravel pad.

The concrete foundation is poured in advance, at least six months before the start of construction. Box-shaped reinforcement with a metal period Ø 12–14 mm will strengthen the monolith. After the concrete has cured, the base must stand so that the swelling of the soil during freezing and thawing reveals weak points or confirms strength.

The layout of the foundation of the house is carried out in accordance with the drawing. The corner base points of the outer and inner fillets require special attention. Precision is required in the location of the threaded inserts. After removing the formwork, the walls and the upper edge are coated with a waterproofing agent. Insulation with expanded polystyrene will extend the life of the foundation. Backfilling of clay is done with a bevel outward.

We raise a house from a profiled bar

We level the upper edge of the foundation according to the level, lay 2 rows of roofing material for waterproofing. We lay antiseptic and treated with bitumen mastic boards of fifty of a larger format: the logs will rest on them.

The bottom row is prone to decay. Let's donate boards - it's easier to replace them. We put the first crown over the layer of insulation. We pay special attention to the coincidence of the angles. We do not let go of the level, plumb line, cord for checking the diagonal.

Insulation tape is inserted into the sinuses of each row of profiled beams and corner joints of the outer walls. Wooden dowels, hammered in with interference, strengthen the connection of the elements of the frame. Steel screeds will cause dew point in the thickness of the material, provoke delusion and decay. Therefore, they are used only to connect the log house with the foundation.

There is no loophole for the cold: the barrier is reliable

The installation of the log under the rough floor is consistent with the size of the mineral wool slab insulation with a step of 0.6 m. Fastening to the timber with reinforced corners and on suspensions stabilizes the spatial laid log.

Splicing is allowed by overlap or by overlapping a cut with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m of each end. On both sides, the logs are sewn up with 9 mm OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood. Laying of the vapor-conducting membrane is mandatory.

The floor slab is analogous to the subfloor. The only difference is in the amount of insulation, which has become a sound insulator. Partitions are mounted in one axis - partial unloading of the load-bearing walls is needed: in addition to its own weight, the roof transmits wind load.

The skill of assembling walls from profiled beams and partitions according to the drawing and instructions comes quickly. An important concern, while the roof is not covered, is to protect the log house and unclaimed blanks from precipitation and air humidity in bad weather.

In the heat and frost, cracking of a tree saturated with moisture is inevitable. Cracking will worsen the thermal conductivity of the wood. Eliminating damage is a long-term “pleasure” for more than one day.

Let's give the floor to the Scandinavians

There are a lot of heaters that are superior to wood in terms of heat conservation. And profiled timber of a large format is expensive due to the abundance of waste unsuitable for processing into building materials. Swedish builders went to reduce the cost of processes by including paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.

Using a smaller section wood reduces costs by up to 40%. The breathable foam insulation seals the joints and reduces the power of heating devices even in the Arctic zone. Penoizol is ideal for cost and thermophysical properties on the market.

A variant was tested with the replacement of a wooden beam with a laminated chipboard analogue from chips. A heat insulator of 100 mm carries the main load in terms of heat saving. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage also decreased. It often makes sense to adopt such a novelty.

Progress does not stand still

Can you build, learn to wait

After you have brought the house under the roof, closed the windows and doors and left only cracks for a draft (let it blow out excess moisture), you need to wait for shrinkage. Under their own weight, the spikes of the timber will cut deeper into the grooves of the structure. The pause lasts up to six months. Windows, door frames are waiting in the wings, otherwise the structure will warp.

Now is the time to carry out additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that in this way the costs for profiled timber are reduced: reducing the size by 50 mm in thickness and width brings savings of 2–2.5 thousand rubles. per cubic meter

The only condition is that natural and artificial materials with steam conductivity are used. Let's turn the dwelling into a foam box - we will destroy the tree, we will arrange a bathhouse in the room. We'll have to invest in forced ventilation.

No matter how good the profiled beam is, the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut, leave it as it is. The texture of the timber under the varnish layer looks attractive. But, of course, the design of a modern stylish home requires a different approach.

As an option, drywall, fixed on vertical holders, will hide flaws. A heat insulator will be arranged between the guides and the house will not be afraid of the cold. While one floor is being finished, the other will already become residential.
Protecting the facade of a house from profiled timber, as a regular event, will drive you crazy. Varnishes, paints, impregnations fade under the sun and lose their protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about a ventilated facade. But the house, assembled from a bar, under the plastic cladding will lose the charm of natural material.

Bottom line: your own roof over your head

Conclusion

Building a house from a bar on your own in the summer season is a feasible task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this is perhaps the only wish of the manufacturer. Implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the contractor in one person ensures that your expectations are met.

Wood is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials, so the desire to have a wooden house is understandable. Timber buildings are becoming popular today, so construction companies offer ready-made options, but they, as a rule, are not cheap. Making a house out of a bar with your own hands is not particularly difficult, so we will now consider the principles of this business.

With proper processing and laying of wood, the structure turns out to be durable, and in practicality it cannot even be compared with a frame house. Not so long ago, timber for buildings was taken from a solid log due to the difficulties in its processing. Now a popular option is timber. We will tell you how to build a house from a bar.

Features:

During construction, the timber has a significant advantage over the log - it is needed less, but there are also disadvantages. The seams between adjacent products are poorly protected from all kinds of precipitation, so they require special processing. It is possible to sheathe a structure from a bar with a certain material, but if this is not planned, then from each bar you need to chamfer 20 by 20 mm.

The timber can also undergo screw deformation, but modern technologies have helped to get rid of this by creating a profiled timber with a complex "protection". The material manufacturers dry it thoroughly to avoid shrinkage.

There is also glued laminated timber with increased strength indicators. Its important advantage is geometric stability, which does not allow the material to change shape under the influence of moisture.

Assembly technology

You can buy a ready-made kit for construction at the manufacturing plant and, upon arrival at the site, simply assemble it according to the plan. During installation, screeds are used - metal studs with a special anti-corrosion coating. They are necessary to securely fix the bars in a certain place.

Assembly order:

1. Foundation.
2. Geometry check.
3. Laying of waterproofing with subsequent installation of the first level from a bar.
4. The material is cross-linked longitudinally for attractiveness.
5. Assembly of beams on wooden dowels with insulation between them.
6. After the walls are erected, interfloor ceilings are mounted, including floor beams.
7. Rafter system. When developing it, 2% shrinkage of laminated veneer lumber is taken into account. The design uses sliding rafters.
8. Roofing laying.
9. Internal arrangement. Floor and wall insulation, partitions manufacturing and other works. This stage also includes the laying of engineering communications.
10. Terrace. If it is provided, then it is necessary to start flooring from a special impregnated board, made with the expectation of long-term operation under the influence of external factors.
11. Installation of windows and doors.

Now let's consider the main points of how to build a house from a bar in more detail.

Foundation

The foundation is columnar, tape and slab. The columnar foundation is one of the simplest. For its manufacture, asbestos-cement pipes are needed, which will need to be inserted into the prepared holes. This type of foundation also has a disadvantage in the form of a lack of communication between the resulting pillars. It is more practical to choose a pile analogue, in which the piles are connected with a reinforced concrete slab.

The slab foundation is a reinforced concrete slab on which construction will continue. It will require large quantities of concrete and reinforcement.

The strip foundation is the most common because of the many options with different functionality. For heavy loads, a type of foundation with the same cross-section is used, while for light houses, a shallowly recessed version is used, which is cheaper, but not inferior in reliability.

Walls

The walls must be assembled directly on the site. At the corners, the timber can be connected in one of two ways - with and without a ledge. First, the strapping ring is laid on the prepared foundation and connected into a half-tree. This type of fastening is used regardless of the selected connection of subsequent rows. The first floor should be about three meters high. When the walls are laid to the desired level, overlap is made and the second floor, if any, is planned.

Turnkey houses cannot be built from timber! It is necessary to first put a blockhouse from a bar for shrinkage, and only in the second stage, 4–6 months after the upsetting, to do all the finishing work, otherwise there can be big troubles.

Materials

The sealant is used very often for wooden houses. Moss, felt or hemp are sold in convenient rolls, so cutting them into ribbons of the right size is quite simple.

Floor

Insulation plays an important role in laying the floor, so the construction is made double. Insulation is laid between the two layers, which also soundproof the room well. With the help of edged boards, a rough floor is created.

It is customary to hem this material from below, but such a fastening is not reliable. To increase the characteristics of the building, a cranial bar is used, which must be attached to the logs.

Observing some simple rules, you can easily build any shaped house from a bar. Such structures are distinguished by their practicality, speed of construction and aesthetics.