The popularity of self-leveling floors in the modern world is growing and gaining momentum. Today, many are interested in the question: is it possible to mount a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor? This is what we will discuss in this article. Today, self-leveling floors meet the following indicators:
Durability;
strength;
moisture resistance;
environmental materials and safety;
not susceptible to fire and negative temperatures.
Having an impeccable look, self-leveling floors attract the attention of buyers. On top of such a floor, you can lay absolutely any covering. The self-leveling coating is not afraid of falling heavy objects, temperature changes, aggressive chemicals. The newest methods of decoration and design are constantly changing and expanding, an increasing number of colors, three-dimensional images appear, various inclusions and inlays are added.
Today the quality of self-leveling floors has changed in comparison with its predecessors. As an example, a 3d self-leveling floor can be presented, which is an element of decor with an exceptional design and three-dimensional images.
If a self-leveling mortar is laid on a concrete coating today does not raise any questions, then pouring a self-leveling floor on a wooden one immediately implies difficulties during installation. Since not everyone likes to dismantle the wooden floor, and if at the same time it is completely like this in the house, doubts immediately arise regarding the installation of the bulk coating. However, if certain conditions are met, it is also possible to lay a self-leveling floor on a wooden base.The main criterion for work is the condition of the coating, which must still comply with good standards of use, while the mixture must be made thin-filled so as not to greatly affect the change in the height of the ceilings.
Preparing a wooden base for pouring
Since a perfectly flat surface is required for pouring a self-leveling floor, the wooden base must be carefully prepared for this process. The wooden floor should be in good working order, not rotten, there should be no loose boards, everything should be fixed firmly and securely.
At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove all baseboards from the room. Then scrub the floor thoroughly with a scraper to remove the varnished or painted layer of boards. After that, it is necessary to wipe with a grinder all cracks that are almost always present on the old floor. With the help of putty, you need to cover up and putty all cracks and unevenness in the floor. And you need to wait until it dries completely. For best adhesion of the coated mix, sand the floor again with coarse sandpaper.
After cleaning the base, it must be free from dust and degreased. The next stage of work is the floor primer, which guarantees good adhesion of the polyurethane mortar to the wood. The main rule is that you need to do this at least twice. Particles of sifted quartz sand, which enter the primer, create roughness to the wood, while increasing the degree of adhesion, including multidirectional.
The main working tools for preparing wood and pouring a self-leveling floor are represented by the following list:
Nail puller, wood wedges and chisel;
a machine or a hand scraper;
Sander;
coarse sandpaper or emery;
industrial or household vacuum cleaner;
roller or brush for applying the primer;
flat brush or short-haired paint roller for even application of the polymer mixture;
needle roller to remove air when applying the solution;
squeegee or metal spatula;
construction mixer or drill with a nozzle designed for a polymer floor.
You will also need to use special clothing, glasses and, of course, studded shoes, which are designed to move on a flooded floor.
Self-leveling coating installation technology
What is most interesting is that the technology of pouring a self-leveling mortar on a wooden coating is basically the same as applying it to a concrete base. The main differences are presented only in the preparation of the basis for these actions.
However, before you start pouring the floor in the house, you need to lay mounting tape around the entire perimeter of the room. And you will also need to install special beacons that help keep a certain level of the floor.
You should buy a quality floor grout from a trusted supplier. Before use, you need to carefully study the instructions for preparing the mixture, which is always on the product packaging. In order for everything to work out correctly, you must very strictly follow all its points.
Usually they take a dry mixture and pour it into a container where it is necessary to knead it. A large bucket of water-based paint will work best for this process. Having filled in the required amount of water, which is reflected in the instructions, you can start mixing the solution with a mixer or drill with a special nozzle. When the mixture becomes homogeneous, only then can it be laid out on the treated wood floor. The main condition is that the mixture must be laid out, starting from the farthest side of the room. towards the doors.
It is necessary to level the mass to a thickness of 5 mm, and a spatula will perfectly help with this. This size is most suitable for rooms with wooden floors. So that air does not collect, and the surface is smooth and even over the solution, you need to walk with a rubber needle roller. If necessary, you can move around the room only in spiked shoes. If necessary to level the mixture in hard-to-reach places, a spatula is best. Since the coating is self-leveling, the leveling is mostly self-leveling, as water spills over the floor.
Since the mixture solution hardens very quickly, its batch must be prepared very quickly. The time interval between batches should be no more than 10 minutes. The optimal solution would be to make the floor together, which allows one to fill the floor, and the other to prepare the next batch of mortar. But if this is not possible, then special attention should be paid to the pouring joints between batches, they must be carefully processed with a roller.
At the end of the work in the room, you must wait 15 minutes, and then cover the floor with foil. This is necessary to ensure that the surface remains glossy, free of dust and debris. After the floor has completely dried, when it is possible to move on it without fear, the final type of coating is applied. There is already enough imagination. The floor can be as a polymer in the form of a three-dimensional image, varnish or other more standard coating options. If you want a colored floor, then the use of colored dyes is allowed in its upper layer. The top coat will give the finished coating a glossy sheen, as well as improve durability and other characteristics. Experts do not recommend doing other work on the floor within a week after installation.
All work costs associated with coverage are individual for each. Most often they depend on the quality of the mixture, its manufacturer, the format of the decorative coating. For example, 3d flooring with an individual exclusive design will cost much more than conventional floors. Professionals charge a lot of money for their services. However, you can save money. The technology of installing a self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not complicated, and everyone can independently introduce a "zest" into their home, decorating it depending on their tastes and preferences.
Experts recommend using only a solution based on polymer resins in residential premises. If the floor was poured in a room with high humidity, then an epoxy type of flooring must be used. In all other rooms it is better to use a polyurethane floor.
The self-leveling floors so popular today have a lot of advantages. A self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not only strong and durable, but also safe and environmentally friendly, therefore it is perfect for living quarters, including children's rooms and kitchens.
The first self-leveling floors were not particularly diverse. Now times have changed, and experts offer polyurethane coatings in numerous colors. Floors made in 3D technology are very popular, with their help you can create a stunning effect that will decorate the design of any room.
More often, self-leveling floors can be found in houses with a concrete base. But the wooden floor is also suitable for this type of work. Pouring a floor with a wood base is somewhat more complicated and has certain nuances.
Preparation for work
Laying the bulk mix is \u200b\u200ba laborious process. Much depends on how thoroughly the preparation for it is. First of all, you need to determine whether it is possible to work with one or another wooden base. The self-leveling floor will last a long time and will be really high quality only when the wooden flooring is solid enough.
Preparation of the base consists in getting rid of the skirting boards and their fixings against the walls. Further, the wooden floor is cycled using a special machine. In small rooms, manual cycles can also be dispensed with.
Next comes the grinding machine, whose task will be to open cracks in the wooden coating. If they were not initially visible, then after processing they will certainly appear. All cracks and irregularities on the surface should be treated with a putty and wait until it dries completely. After that, the base for the self-leveling floor is sanded with coarse-grained emery. In this case, it is better to give preference to wood combined with polyurethane.
The final stage of preparation is surface priming. Before starting this procedure, it is necessary to degrease the base and carefully get rid of all debris and dust. It is better to apply the primer in two layers. For more reliable adhesion, it is worth adding quartz sand to the primer.
For preparatory work, you will need a chisel, a nail puller, a scraper and grinder, coarse-grained emery, a primer roller, a spatula, and a mixer for mixing a polyurethane mortar. In addition, it is worth stocking up on gloves, respirators, overalls, goggles and shoes with spikes for walking on freshly applied surfaces.
Floor pouring technology
According to the principle of operation, pouring polyurethane onto a wooden floor is no different from a similar process with a concrete base.
First of all, it is important to properly prepare the solution. This procedure must be carried out in accordance with the rules indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, this happens according to the same scheme: the dry mixture is poured with water, and then mixed until homogeneous with a construction mixer.
The finished mixture must be spread on the wooden floor, starting from the farthest corner of the room. The thickness of the finished coating is very important. In the case of wood, it should not be more than 5 mm. The polyurethane is leveled with a spatula and a needle roller. The latter is necessary in order to remove all air bubbles from the mixture. An even layer of polyurethane needs to be dried for about 15 minutes, and then covered with a film so that dust does not settle on the solidifying self-leveling floor.
The base coat must be completely dry and cured well. Only then can the finishing layer be applied. As a rule, this is a varnish or a polymer mixture.
Experts advise choosing self-leveling floors for residential premises, which are based on polymer resin. Where the humidity is especially high, such as in the bathroom, it is better to use an epoxy coating.
Self-leveling floors can be very durable, but for each individual case, there are specific features of preparation and installation. For example, in a room with the possibility of sudden changes in temperature, it is worth using mounting tape. It must be laid along the entire perimeter of the wall of the room. As a result, a damper pad will come out, which can protect the polyurethane surface in the event that the tree begins to expand with increasing temperature.
In rooms with a wooden floor base, after finishing the preparatory work, you need to check the air humidity and room temperature. The instructions for the polyurethane mixture must indicate the optimal values \u200b\u200bfor starting work.
Masters recommend pouring a surface area of \u200b\u200babout 2 square meters at once. Then it needs to be quickly leveled and work continued on other areas. Do not interrupt the pouring process of the polyurethane coating for more than 10 minutes, otherwise you may get an uneven surface. It is most convenient to fill in strips starting from the door farthest from the entrance.
The needle roller plays an important role in filling the floor, as it makes the coating as uniform as possible. Experts recommend not to skimp on the finish coat. A good varnish will give the self-leveling floor a beautiful glossy shine and increase its durability.
The self-leveling floor becomes hard after 10-12 hours. However, it is better to wait a few days before stepping on the surface. In some cases, the dry period may take a week.
If you follow all the rules, you can achieve an amazing effect that will delight for many years.
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In a wooden house, as a rule, a wooden floor is laid, by the way, you can order flooring here remont-kvartiri.info, but of course it is better to try to do it yourself. However, an excellent substitute can be a self-leveling floor, more precisely one of its varieties - a leveling screed based on cement or gypsum, on which linoleum, laminate or any other coating can subsequently be laid, including another type of self-leveling floor - a finishing coating.
If done correctly, the floor will level itself horizontally and harden quickly. Poor quality work leads to cracks in the floor, so you need to start with preliminary preparation of the place of work.
Such a floor is made on an old wooden floor, having previously sanded it with sandpaper. The skirting boards, if any, must be removed, all joints, cracks and possible holes must be vacuumed, after which the floor must be degreased again with a cleaning powder. Now you can seal up cracks and joints - for this, polyurethane foam and silicone joint sealant are suitable.
A day later, the next stage is performed - a primer. Its absence can lead to cracks in the self-leveling floor and even flaking. In addition, the primer acts as a waterproofing agent. Apply the primer in two layers using a roller or brush with natural bristles. After 5 hours after applying the primer, you can start laying the self-leveling floor, the maximum time between the primer and directly pouring is a day.
If the floors are wooden, it is advisable to cover the floor with a film that completely isolates the wood from the screed. Therefore, the film should not be damaged, all possible small cuts or holes, and the joints should be glued with tape.
But there is one more step between priming and laying floors - marking. Draw parallel lines, slightly less than the length of the floor and at regular intervals - about 30 cm - screw screws at a certain height. They will play the role of a level, since the self-leveling floor should have a thickness of about 3 cm.
The solution container must be large enough to stir the entire bag at once - at least 25 liters. If you prepare the solution in portions, you can get different characteristics due to the uneven distribution of chemical additives, which can affect the quality of the self-leveling floor.
The solution water must be clean and at room temperature. The self-leveling mixture is poured gradually, stirring with a mechanical drill attachment in the form of a mixer for several minutes. The mass must be homogeneous, the amount of water and mortar must be proportional, otherwise the floor will be less durable. The solution should stand for several minutes, after which it is stirred again. You need to use the solution within 20 minutes after mixing.
The mixture is poured in strips in height, according to the marking with self-tapping screws. In order for the composition to lay down evenly and to form bubbles on it, immediately after pouring it is necessary to roll it with a needle roller. If the room has a large volume, then it is better to fill it through one strip. After 5 hours, it is allowed to walk on the self-leveling floor, and laying linoleum or any other topcoat is allowed after twelve hours.
The 21st century is the time that made a self-leveling floor on a wooden base so popular and in demand both in residential premises and in modern offices. Today, self-leveling floors on a wooden floor are not just a covering, but also an excellent decorative solution, especially if 3D technology is used together. Such floor coverings have many advantages and decent performance characteristics, as well as quite affordable cost. Few people know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor with their own hands, but this is not as difficult as it might seem at first. This guide will help you make a self-leveling floor for planks.
What are the self-leveling floors on a wooden base?
Self-leveling floor on a wooden base is not one solution, but a whole category of materials that are applied to a concrete or wooden (as in this case) base. Self-leveling floor on a wooden floor can be divided into:
- Polyurethane. A durable and resistant to long-term impact polymer floor, which is perfectly suited for arranging flooring in places with a large number of people.
- Epoxy. This is a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, which does not react in any way to the effects of moisture. It is recommended to install such floors in damp rooms, especially in the bathroom and kitchen.
- Epoxy urethane. A type of polymer floor that has good strength and wear resistance. Can be used as an alternative to polyurethane coating.
- Methyl methacrylate. Polymeric floor with excellent thermal insulation properties, often used for the arrangement of floors in rooms without heating or with poor heating in the cold season.
Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor on a wooden floor can be one-component and two-component. The first type is often used as a basis for installing parquet, stone, tiles or other decorative coating. Two-pack flooring often contains a three-dimensional image, which gives the floor a creative and unusual appearance. Next, we will figure out whether it is possible to make a 3D floor on a wooden floor and how to do it.
The main advantages of self-leveling floors on a wooden base
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor is a solution that has received its demand not only due to its appearance, but also because of its good technical characteristics and numerous advantages. You can find them below:
- High resistance to prolonged mechanical stress, wear and tear resistance.
- Excellent resistance to chemicals - wood-like self-leveling floor will withstand even acids.
- A wide range of available colors, styles, patterns and textures, images.
- Excellent sound and heat insulation performance - a creative bulk wooden floor is quiet and warm!
- High strength, reliability, long-term use of the coating, which will last for decades.
- The presence of antistatic properties, thanks to which the self-leveling wooden floor is quite easy to clean.
- Absolute seamlessness - this facilitates the process of floor maintenance, prevents floor squeaks.
You can see that a self-leveling floor in a wooden house is not only a modern and beautiful, but also a practical solution that can delight the inhabitants of the home for many years. In addition, such a coating can be equipped on its own. We will learn how to fill a wooden floor with a self-leveling floor, what tools and building materials are needed for this.
What tools are needed to equip the floor?
Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor for wooden bases requires the use of a wide range of tools, fixtures and materials that must be prepared before starting work. You should definitely have at hand:
- A special mixture for self-leveling floors is the basis for future flooring.
- Long spatula, needle roller (required to remove air bubbles).
- A construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment if there is no mixer.
- Laser or ordinary building level, aluminum rule.
- A minimum capacity of 20 liters, a set of building beacons and wooden blocks.
- Alabaster, mortar, water sufficient for the mixture.
- Triangular scraper, screwdriver, screws, dowels, long ruler.
Also, special clothing will not hurt - protective gloves, a mask for the eyes and face, as well as shoes designed for walking on painted surfaces (paint shoes). After preparing the required arsenal, you can start.
We prepare the base for the polymer floor
Can self-leveling floors be poured onto a wooden floor? Yes, sometimes craftsmen do not ask the question of whether it is possible to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor and apply the solution directly to the old coating. However, even with this, it is necessary to carefully prepare the base made of wood - it should be well polished so that the surface becomes rough. This will significantly improve the adhesion of the floor to the polymer layers. It is also worth making sure that there are no traces of grease, dirt, oil and other contaminants on the wooden floor surface - they are removed with a solvent.
Can a self-leveling floor be made on a wooden floor if it creaks? No - otherwise the final coverage will be uneven and cause a lot of problems. To avoid trouble, you also need to check the floor. All boards must be securely fixed in the correct position, the floor itself must be flat, without irregularities and defects. Also, before applying the polymer floor, it will be necessary to remove all paint from the surface of the base, if any.
Before making self-leveling floors in a wooden house, it is necessary to carry out a small preparation of the coating:
- Remove all skirting boards and close the holes formed after removing the skirting boards.
- Seal all cracks, chips and irregularities on the floor surface with mortar.
Now you can proceed to actions that will eventually lead you to the completion of the self-leveling floor arrangement.
Leveling the surface and placing beacons for the floor
In order for the floor to be as even as possible, you need to take care of this at the initial stages. So, before pouring the solution, draw a line along the entire length of the room, then set self-tapping screws along it, the distance between which is 30 centimeters. With the help of a laser building level, you will need to find the highest point located on the wooden base for the polymer floor. After detection, it is necessary to add about 5-6 mm (thickness of the floor layer) and align the screws at the same level. It is still too early to do 3D floors on wood floors.
The next stage, which continues the installation of a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor, is the installation of beacons. They must be placed on the previously installed screws, securely fastened with mortar. After that, you should prepare a solution for the self-leveling floor - for this, the contents of the package must be stirred in a container with water in the instructions indicated on the package, and then stirred until smooth with a construction mixer.
We proceed to pouring mortar for self-leveling floor on a tree
We already know if it is possible to use a self-leveling floor on a wooden base. The solution prepared in advance should be carefully poured onto the prepared base, covering an area of \u200b\u200babout 2 square meters at a time. meters. The layer must be aligned with the beacons using a long spatula. When the formation of the layer is completed, it will be necessary to remove all air bubbles on the surface of the coating using a needle roller - this is a very important stage on which the further fate of the entire result depends. Wait until the floor is completely dry.
Now you know how to make a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor - video instructions on the Internet will help you see how the process looks visually, which will give you a better understanding of the technology. The equipped coating can be used as a base for applying decorative materials, or left as an independent floor.
The house starts from the foundation and your apartment, room or any technical room starts from the floor. This is the surface that is exposed to the greatest influence from the outside - walking, running, furniture pressure, dust settling, staining. Of course, this indicates the need to form a hardy, durable coating. Like many modern construction work, the floor can be made with the latest developments. There are two types of base - concrete and wood. The former is suitable for factories, businesses, offices, homes, public places such as schools, hospitals.
Wooden floors can now be found in the private sector - on, in cottages, houses in ecovillages, as well as in areas of old buildings. But, nevertheless, it is this material that has unique natural properties and is very valuable. For rooms with an imperfectly prepared rough surface, self-leveling mixtures for a wooden floor are recommended. They will help you find a compromise between time-tested materials, economic considerations and dreams of a trendy and stylish interior.
Surface preparation for work
The floor is not always level. Often the surface retains the flaws of past repair teams, sometimes it deforms over time. In order to determine the condition of the main wooden floor, some work needs to be done. First of all, you need to get to it by removing the layers of the topcoat, which can be linoleum, carpet, laminate. This must be done carefully, without deforming the base. To do this, you should first take a closer look at the type of attachment in order to purposefully direct the force. When the surface is cleaned from both the coating and the layer of insulating film and insulation, you need to pay attention to the boards. If you notice signs of decay, they are no longer valid, as this process is irreversible. The appearance of small "bugs" is also a disturbing symptom. If the tree is not damaged, actions can be taken to restore it and a new covering can be laid.
Smoothness is very important in flooring. It avoids problems with ceramic and cork tiles, laminate, solid wood or veneered MDF. Any extra bend will inevitably affect the appearance of the surface, forming bumps, cracks, which impede good adhesion of the glue. How do you know what the quality of your floor is? To do this, you can not only use the eye gauge, but also count using several threads stretched over the floor from one wall to another. Fasten the ends of the threads at the same height from the floor, then lower them to the point where the thread touches the floor at one point. Measure the distance from the thread to the floor in other areas. If the difference in height does not exceed a few millimeters, this is an acceptable error. If the height differences are more than 5 mm, it is likely that additional filling of the screed will be required in this area. If there are gaps in the floor, they need to be sealed with putty, otherwise the mixture will leak and unevenness will appear.
Composition and features of the mixture
Leveling mixtures can be a real help in the hands of the master, both for cement and wood floors. They prepare the substrate for any kind of finish. Some of them need to be carefully rolled out over the surface and distributed by hand, while some spread themselves, filling all the cracks and depressions. It is with the latter types of mixtures that it is easiest for a beginner to work.
The composition traditionally includes cement or gypsum, sand, as well as additional additives that are responsible for the properties of the product - drying speed, strength, preferred layer thickness. It is very important to follow all the manufacturer's instructions. The main difference between the wood floor leveling mixture is the presence of fibrous additives responsible for better adhesion to the surface, such as fiberglass. The features include the absence of casein in the composition - a substance that can destroy the structure of a tree. Also, the composition may contain polymer modifiers.
Required inventory
Self-leveling mixtures are also called self-leveling floors, which clearly describes the way they are applied. If your premises in the future may be subject to temperature extremes and high humidity, it is better to choose cement-based mixtures. Anhydrite compositions are not ready for such a load. The purchase should be carried out in a hardware store, there they will tell you which samples interact best with the tree, and how to calculate the required volume of the mixture. Of the necessary tools, you should have: a bucket, a wide spatula, a needle roller and a mixer for mortar. Proven manufacturers in this area: Knauf, Horizon, Vetonit, Ceresit, Prospectors, Volma, Paul Bolars.
Dilution of the mixture
Leveling a wooden floor with a self-leveling mixture can be a real torture if the ratio of water to dry matter is not observed. The mixture is poured into water gradually, stirring. It is very important to have time to knead the mixture and apply it without exceeding the time interval of half an hour, since it is at this time that the mixture has the best adhesion to the surface. If there is too little water, the mixture will begin to solidify and distribute to the granules-crystals even in the mixer, but if there is more than the prescribed amount, the self-leveling floor will dry for a long time.
This work is difficult to carry out alone, so it is better to invite specialists or friends who are competent in matters of construction. The mixture costs a lot, but improper mixing alone can render it unusable, because the frozen mixture can no longer be re-diluted with water and reused. Stir the mixture until the lumps are completely dissolved. It is better to isolate the room from fresh air currents by closing the windows. Drafts and high humidity can adversely affect the curing of the coating. The best temperature for work is from 5 to 25 degrees Celsius. If the mixture does not flow properly, use a roller. If its needles are shorter than the thickness of the floor, they will break up air bubbles without affecting the distribution of the mixture as a whole.
If you are making a floor in a room where there is no, which separates it from the next one, install limiters in advance that will keep the adjacent room clean. They can also be installed near a plumbing fixture if you are planning artistic processing.
It is quite possible to do such work with your own hands. Buying a high-quality mixture will ensure ease of work, efficiency - a good result.
Self-leveling floor application
Self-leveling floors have certain advantages. They are environmentally friendly and safe. Their thickness varies from a millimeter to several centimeters, which allows you to find your own solution. Their thickness does not take the height of the room, allowing you to freely dispose of its space. The result of the work is a perfectly flat, smooth, durable coating that is ready for further work. You can install a floor heating system on it, or you can immediately lay the finishing layer. The floor covering can be any, as the self-leveling floor does not react with any material. The temperature of the environment is very important and the temperature of the water with which the mixture is diluted, it should be cold, at room temperature.
The work can take all day, since both preliminary measures and a sometimes multi-level pouring process are necessary. The leveling compound can leave debris that is unacceptable to wood flooring. It will take about an hour to clean the finishing area.
Most mixes cannot be used as topcoats and require a topcoat of other materials. Some of them can be painted on top.
The arrangement of your home must necessarily begin with the project of the premises, and there must be a place in it not only for finishing coatings, design solutions for colors and accents, but also for basic construction work. You can't build a castle on the sand, and you can't get a safe and durable home without such a foundation. A self-leveling compound is well worth the investment; good insulation and filling voids and cracks are essential for a wood floor. This material breathes, but at the same time becomes vulnerable, so only mixtures specially developed for wood can help solve the issue of quality repairs.