How to prune adenium so as not to harm a succulent. Form a lush crown and fleshy caudex in adenium When to cut off adenium

Perhaps adenium is the most patient flower of all indoor plants, which not only painlessly takes away all manipulations with scissors, but also responds perfectly to them, overgrowing with new shoots. Thanks to such a responsive nature, the flower can be given any shape, which, in fact, is what florists use to create real masterpieces. How to form adenium to get an interesting specimen? This can be done in two ways:

• crown formation;
• the formation of caudex.

How to make a lush bushy crown?

To prevent adenium from turning into a long stick, it is necessary to stimulate its branching at the initial stages of development. This can be done in several approaches:

Old or elongated specimens can be formed and at the same time rejuvenated by cutting off the trunk completely at a short distance from the soil level. If the branching is too vigorous as a result of such pruning, some of the shoots should be removed so that they do not grow thin.

How to form a beautiful and powerful caudex?

A characteristic feature is its thickened trunk called caudex, which thickens itself over time. However, there are several simple ways to make the caudex thicker and more powerful, or to give it its original shape.

Most often, they resort to the following caudex formation techniques:

All sections, regardless of the method used, must be covered with crushed coal or filled with paraffin and dried well within 24 hours, otherwise there is a high risk of plant decay.

It is not difficult to form adenium, and most importantly, the flower allows you to do whatever you want with itself, without suffering from it at all. On the contrary, regular shaping procedures will help to grow a very ornamental plant.

Pruning is the partial or complete removal of branches necessary for a more intense flowering plant... At what age and how should you prune? Pruning is done when necessary:

1. Activate the flowering of Adenum and form a lush crown.
2. Set the required shape.
3. Get rid of dead branches and rejuvenate the plant over 5-6 years old.

Pruning results in new buds, and then branches, at the ends of which flowers bloom. The procedure is done during the intensive growth of the plant, usually in the spring, when the dormant period ends. If there was a transplant, then pruning is postponed for 2-4 weeks to adapt the plant.

The wider the cut, the more likely new shoots will form.... A plant that is too young with few buds after pruning will look runny and not as pretty as older trees. Florists recommend doing anti-aging pruning at least once every 2 years if the branches are too thin and the flowering is declining.

Home pruning for the plant to bloom

ATTENTION: For independent branching, the age of Adenium should reach about 5-6 years, and until then, you can help him with pinching or pruning.

The crown (to give shape and intense flowering) and roots (to facilitate the process of transplanting or removing damaged fragments) of the plant are pruned. We talked about how to make Adenium bloom in.

To get a positive effect from the procedure, you must follow some rules:

1. Water the plant a couple of days before the intervention so that it does not experience a water deficit.
2. Process the cut sites of the plant for its speedy healing.
3. Protect yourself from contact with the poisonous juice of Adenium.

Tools required for the trimming procedure:

• disposable gloves (to protect the skin);
• alcohol (to disinfect the blade);
• pruning shears or sharp knife.

The pruning procedure itself includes several stages.:

TIP: For quick healing, you can use a regular plastic bag as a dome.

Formation step by step

The crown, trunk and root of Adenium are formed by pruning... The kidneys have different activities, depending on their location.

Often, the apical bud develops more actively due to a special plant hormone - auxin, which is most concentrated in the upper part, stimulating its growth and inhibiting the development of lateral shoots. Removing the apical bud will help wake up the rest, but only a few of them will become full-fledged branches of the future crown.

Crowns

The formation of the crown is necessary to give splendor and intense flowering, and it is carried out throughout the vegetative period of the tree's development. The thickness of the stems is visually assessed and the thinnest of them are cut off. Excess branches growing inside the crown or creating friction with others are also subject to removal.

A universal way to form a crown is to cut side branches by 2/3 of their length. With the help of this method, over time, the crown will become lush, otherwise the branches will go up with thin sticks, which is considered ugly for adenium.

In a hot time when all the processes of plant development are accelerated, healing will occur faster.

Watch a video about the formation of the crown of adenium:

Caudex (trunk)

If everything is clear with the crown, then the formation of the trunk raises many questions. Caudex is an important part of the plant, which even without leaves is of interest.... The thicker and denser the trunk, the richer the plant as a whole looks.

There are several techniques for shaping caudex. Let's consider them.

1. Splicing several seedlings - a method in which several young plants of the same age are put together. It is possible to use different varieties of Adenium to achieve a more interesting result. In places of contact of the stems, cuts are made, and the entire bundle is held together with tape. After about a month, the plants grow together and there is no need for a garter.
2. Plexus - a technique in which 3 or more stems, planted in one container, are braided into a pigtail forming one, ornate common trunk.
3. Ring formation - suitable for Adeniums with too long and thin caudex. Gradually, it is rolled into a ring, which visually thickens the plant.

How to form a plant correctly? Powerful caudex can be formed by trimming the roots. This procedure is carried out with each transplant, and the plant itself gradually rises above the soil level.

It is important to choose the right soil and nutrient mixtures, moisten, but not flood the soil... Of the auxiliary tools, a plastic ring is used, located on a slide made of soil. Having shortened the main root, the plant is laid on a ring, carefully straightening the small roots in different directions. It is necessary to fix the plant in order for it to grow properly. For fixation, use wire, small stones or chips. The spread roots are covered with earth.

We talked about how to properly form the caudex and what to do if it has dried out, in.

Roots

Trimming the roots is optional, but using the root system, you can modify the plant to give it a more exotic look. There are 2 most common root formation options:

It should be taken into account that pruning the roots of an adult Adenium (over 2 years old), which has already formed, can lead to its death. The appearance of an adult plant directly depends on the effort, imagination and patience of the grower.

Care

The period after pruning or shaping for Adenium is quite difficult, he needs peace and careand. It is necessary to fertilize and stimulate growth with the help of special additives (imported or domestic), monitor soil and air humidity to exclude the possibility of decay.

If the roots of seedlings were pinched, the first watering should be no earlier than 4-5 days after the procedure. When forming the crown, it is impossible for moisture to get to the cut sites. It is recommended to put the pot with the plant in a small shade if the sun is too bright and scorching. Read more about caring for Adenium.

What to do if the plant starts to wither after the procedure?

Violations of the rules for pruning and shaping can lead to plant disease, which begins to wilt and eventually dies. First you need to find out what is the cause of the disease and take measures for treatment.

• Decay of the root system - can occur with excessive watering, with insufficient evaporation of moisture from an incorrectly selected container, after cutting. To diagnose rot, you need to remove the Adenium from the pot and revise the roots. If necessary, remove damaged areas according to all the rules of plant care.
• Withering branches - can be both a natural reaction to pruning and a cause of illness. It is considered normal when the tips of the cut branches dry out, this process stops on its own after healing. If the situation has worsened, it is worth trying to remove the damaged tissue and treat the cut sites with antibiotics.

We talked about all the problems that you may face when growing Adenium.

Adenium care must be carried out with full responsibility, otherwise the consequences can be dire. In the race for the beauty and exotic appearance of a tree, you should not neglect its health. With the utmost care, you can get a gorgeous plant worthy not only of a place in your personal collection, but also of universal delight at thematic exhibitions.

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The unusual appearance of adenium and the comparisons addressed to its flowers with a rose, lily or a star are the reasons for the increased interest in the plant from the African deserts. At the same time, adeniums, for which home care is not at all complicated, are very unpretentious.

A little knowledge, diligence, attention, and the pet will respond with lush flowering. And the unlimited possibilities of cutting and shaping allow you to grow a truly unique specimen.

Adeniums have a very recognizable appearance. Thickened intramural stem, a small rosette of dense leaves crowning the apex and large flowers of all shades from white to deep purple.

Plants, which in nature are not spoiled by semi-desert conditions, adapt well in the house, bloom and even allow experiments on themselves. They result in whimsical adeniums shaped like octopuses, mangrove jungle trees or abstract green sculptures.

The secret of successful home care for adenium is simple and consists in providing maximum sun, loose soil, regular but moderate watering.

Temperature and humidity for adenium

Adeniums can be called one of the most "heat-resistant" indoor plants. A comfortable temperature for them is 30–35 ° C. A decrease of 3-5 units does not cause discomfort, but prolonged air cooling to 18–20 ° C makes the plant slow down its growth, abandon flowering and start preparing for the winter dormant period.

Signs of depression are also noticeable in an overly warm room. The temperature of +38 ° C when caring for adenium at home is often critical if the humidity in the room is not high enough. Moisture helps the flower withstand heat, but in cold weather, on the contrary, it causes problems.

The minimum allowable temperature for keeping adenium in the room is +10 ° C. If the air continues to cool, the risk of damage to the measles system and its death from decay increases significantly.

Adeniums are characterized by pronounced periods of hibernation or dormancy, when the plant:

• partially or completely sheds leaves;
• stops growing;
• does not form new buds.

A kind of sign for a flower is:

• decrease in the duration of daylight hours;
• cooling down to 16–20 ° C.

"Hibernation" helps the plant to recover and create a reserve for future flowering. Therefore, for all its time for adenium, they maintain a temperature of about 12-16 ° C and radically reduce watering. It must be remembered that plants cannot stand even light frosts. As in the photo, when caring for adenium at home, you can do without spraying and special measures to increase air humidity.

Lighting of adenium for home care

Adeniums are light-requiring, unlike most houseplants, they do not need shading and feel best on the south and east side.

In summer, the more sun they get, the more magnificent the bloom will be, the denser and healthier the crown will be. In winter, conditions do not change, but if there is not enough light, then the shadow can be partially compensated by maintaining the temperature within 15 ° C or for a long time.

Striving for the sun, indoor adeniums lean towards the window. You can restore beauty to the crown by turning the flower. Over time, the stem will straighten again.

The light regime for adenium, which comes from the equatorial zone of the planet, should be kept close to natural values. That is, from autumn to spring, in order for the plant to receive light for 12-14 hours, it will need illumination.

Soil for adenium and its transplant

The soil mixture for adenium should be light, very loose, nutritious and permeable to moisture and oxygen. The acidity level comfortable for the plant is pH 5.5–7.

Today, there is a sufficient range of ready-made substrates based on peat or coir on the market. For adenium, soil for succulents or universal soil with the addition of loosening, structuring components is suitable.

If the acquired soil is too dense or seems to be poor, you can mix the soil for adenium yourself by taking:

• 5 parts of the finished substrate;
• 3 parts of leafy soil with a high humus content;
• 2 parts vermiculite, river sand or perlite.

A good addition would be crushed charcoal, which can act as a natural component of the soil or.

In the recommendations of large producers involved in the cultivation of adeniums, there is an indication of the composition of the substrate for this culture. A part of perlite is added to three parts of crushed tree bark. Such soil for adenium perfectly permeates air and moisture, never compresses and can be considered universal. However, there are not too many nutrients in it, so the grower will have to think about frequent feeding his pet.

This is also the result of a significant proportion of foam balls, brick chips, charcoal and other disintegrants, which are added to increase the airiness of the substrate.

Adenium transplant is most often carried out in the spring, when active growth begins. The new pot should not be too large, otherwise the plant may delay long-awaited flowering. However, even in a too tight container, it is difficult to achieve a harmonious shape of the caudex trunk.

If the reason for transplanting adenium was the formation of its bizarre roots, within 5-7 days such a plant is not watered or moistened very carefully. Healthy adeniums, such as seedlings transferred to separate pots, can be watered as usual.

How to water adenium?

The watering regime of the decorative African native depends on:

• from the season;
• from air temperature;
• from the capacity of the pot;
• from the soil chosen for adenium;
• from the location of the plant and the phase of its vegetation.

During the period of active growth, the plant needs a lot of water, and the higher the temperature, the more adenium needs.

In hot weather, the potting soil should be slightly damp. This will help keep the flower alive and keep flowers from shedding. It is not necessary to spray adenium.

Cold snap is a sure sign to the grower that watering needs to be reduced. Excess water often causes disease and death of the root system. How to water adenium to be sure of the optimal amount of moisture?

In summer, at a comfortable temperature, a new portion of water is needed when the topsoil is completely dry after the previous watering. In winter, in a cool room, you need to water the flower sparingly, when the substrate is completely dry. In a warm room and while maintaining growth, adenium is watered as usual, but somewhat less often.

Pruning and shaping adenium

To make the crown dense, branched, flower growers resort to the formation and pruning of adenium.

This is often simply necessary, since in many plants the apical development is dominant and does not allow other shoots to develop, except for the central one.

Removing the apex activates dormant lateral buds and triggers branching. As a result of such pruning at home on adenium:

• the amount of foliage increases;
• more buds are laid;
• the crown is leveled, voluminous and dense.

Usually, after pruning, more than three buds wake up, and the thicker the cut off the stem, the thicker the growth is formed along the edge of its "hemp".

Also, pruning adenium at home is used to rejuvenate adult plants, some of the branches of which weaken noticeably with age. It is carried out with a frequency of two years, shortening the shoots to 5-8 cm.

Formation of adenium caudex

Adenium is a rare plant that allows the grower to form not only the aboveground, but also the underground part. Pruning and shaping adenium caudex allows the grower to grow incredible specimens.

The flower is extremely "loyal" to all manipulations of a person who can intertwine the roots, cut some of them or completely remove the bottom of the plant in order to grow a new root system of a given shape.

Most often, on the basis of adenium, bonsai are formed like a mangrove tree. For this:

• choose a grown seedling with a thick stem base;
• at the plant at the site of the caudex narrowing, the root is cut off;
• the resulting cutting is rooted again in water or a loose mixture of perlite and vermiculite.

When the plant regains roots, it is transferred to a wide pot, on light soil for adenium. A previously prepared round plate made of dense plastic is placed under the handle. The roots are straightened and fixed to give the desired shape. Then the roots are sprinkled with soil one or two centimeters.

Care after such a formation of adenium caudex consists in more frequent, usually moderate watering and regular checking of the position of the roots. To do this, the plant is transplanted twice a year, straightening the rhizomes and removing unnecessary ones.

Video about the rules for caring for adenium at home

This question is asked by all novice adenium experts, tk. fat people rarely delight us with independent branching.

First, let's take a look at what pruning is and what is pinching.

Pruning - This is the partial or complete removal of branches, shoots or roots.

Pinching - This is the removal of 0.5-2 centimeters of the top of the central conductor or side branches. In fact, this is the same cropping, but only very small.

With regard to adeniums, as a rule, pinching can be done on seedlings starting from 2-3 months. If we are talking about the first pruning, then the approximate age is 12-18 months. Based on this data, I made a comparison table for trimming and pinching.

There are more pluses in pruning. There are weighty arguments in both directions. So this is an individual choice. If there are few seedlings, it is better to choose the method that is closest to the desired result; if there are a lot of seedlings, then you can try both options.

General information and recommendations:

As a rule, pruning is done in the spring, 2-4 weeks after transplantation (if any), when the plant has already actively started to grow. But it is possible during the entire vegetative period.
During the rest period, neither pruning nor pinching is done.

Water the plant a couple of days before pinching / pruning. On the day of crown formation, it should have a good turgor. ( Turgor, turgid state - the state of plant cells, tissues and organs, in which they contain the required amount of water and, therefore, do not experience water deficiency).

Use only a sharp knife, preferably stainless steel. Both a paper cutter and a blade will work.

The cut is made a few millimeters (usually 3-4) above the dormant kidney.

Wipe the blade with rubbing alcohol after each cut.

The juice secreted by the plant blot the napkincoy.

Do not pinch the seedlings and do not cut the plants, leaving only the buds in the place of the former cotyledon leaves, they may not start growing. The maximum depth is above the buds of the first pair of true leaves.

After the adenium stops secreting juice, smear the cut site. Garden balm is best suited for this (commercially available, but quite expensive). Or you can do with other means, for example, garden varnish or garden paste "Rannet" (pictured"RanNet") ... will do the same. You can do without putty, but this will affect the accuracy of the sections, or rather, their healing.

Protect the wounds until they heal from water ingress - tissue decay may occur.

The growth of replacement shoots begins in about 2-3 weeks, and if you are not satisfied with the result - few buds have woken up, then you can repeat the pruning, making it a little deeper.

Adenium juice is poisonous. So wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after pruning. If there are wounds or abrasions on your hands, cover them with adhesive tape. You can avoid contact with the juice altogether by using gloves.

Pruning adenium as a stage in the formation of the crown and caudex of a plant at home is an exciting exercise, but not all growers know how to do it correctly. At what age is the crown and roots of adenium pruned? How to do it correctly? Plant transplant and simultaneous caudex formation. In this case, the recommendations of specialists with a detailed explanation of questions about pruning adenium and how to care for the plant after.

So, step-by-step photo instructions for pruning the crown and roots of adenium. Caudex formation and plant transplant.

Pruning the crown of adenium

Before pruning the crown of adenium, it is necessary to understand the concept of "apical dominance". In this case, we are talking about the domination of some dormant plant buds over others. As a rule, the topmost bud on the shoot develops fastest in adenium. This is due to the distribution of hormones in the plant. Thus, the hormones auxins (they are responsible for the growth of branches in a plant) are more concentrated in the upper part of the shoot, while the lower part of the plant receives them to a lesser extent. With the age of adenium, the concentration of auxins in the stem levels off and it begins to branch independently without any pruning. However, in order for adenium to start branching on its own, that is, the hormones auxins are evenly distributed over its stem and give an impetus to the growth of new branches from dormant buds, the age of the plant must exceed 4-5 years. Therefore, experts recommend pruning adenium to form a lush and beautiful crown.

Pruning adenium is needed for:

1. Formation of a lush and beautiful crown.

2. Stimulating the growth of lateral branches.

3. Rejuvenation of an adult plant, whose age exceeds 5-6 years, which, in turn, stimulates abundant flowering. After all, as you know, on the old branches of adenium, less and less buds are laid every year. Pruning old branches causes the growth of young shoots, and on young branches several times more buds appear, compared to old branches.

When to prune adenium? Many flower growers propose to do not pruning, but pinching young shoots of adenium, that is, they only cut off the top of a plant whose age does not exceed 1 year. What happens when pruning adenium before 1 year? In most cases, 1 dormant kidney wakes up, which is closest to the apex cut. As a result, after pruning, only one branch begins to develop, which replaces the cut top.

It is recommended to prune the crown of adenium, which is 3-5 years old. The plant should have a fairly wide caudex. In this case, more dormant buds will "wake up", which will result in a lush crown. However, there is one more nuance - this is the timing of the pruning. It is advisable to prune the crown of adenium in the spring, but only after the flower has woken up from winter rest and has entered the phase of active growth. If pruning is performed in early spring, when the flower is still asleep, then 1-2 buds will wake up on the stem.

It is not recommended to prune adenium in the fall and winter. At this time, the plant goes to rest or is already asleep. Side branches do not develop, and the flower may die. It is not recommended to prune a young adenium (plant age 1-2 years). His caudex is just forming. The size of the caudex depends on the amount of green mass of the flower; if you remove the latter, the caudex will be small.

How to trim adenium? Experts point to a universal method for pruning adenium - the height of the remaining cutting should not exceed 9 cm. If you prune close to the caudex, many dormant buds will wake up. The result is a lot of thin twigs, which is not very beautiful for adenium. If you cut only the top of the dominant branch (the length of the resulting cutting does not exceed 5 cm), then only the replacement branch will develop. It will grow upward and the clipping will simply not be noticeable.

Photo experiment on pruning the crown of adenium

In the photo experiment, several options for trimming adenium are considered. This guide will help growers create a beautiful plant crown. So, the pruning was carried out on seedlings that were 3.5 years old. In this case, the width of the caudex in diameter was 1.5-2 times greater than the width of the stem in diameter.

In the first photo, the trimming height was 5 cm, that is, the entire ground part of the flower was trimmed. Only the stalk was left, 5 cm high from the upper edge of the caudex. As a result, up to a dozen sleeping kidneys woke up. In the process of growth, not all branches survived, but a lush crown of adenium was obtained.

In the second photo, the height of the stalk left relative to the caudex level was about 10 cm. As a result, about 5 dormant buds woke up, which is much worse than the previous pruning option. During the growth process, some of the twigs died. The remaining branches were cut again, which made it possible to form a lush crown of adenium. But this pruning option postponed the flowering of the plant for a year.

In the third photo, only 5 cm of the plant crown was removed. As a result, only the replacement branch develops, which stretches upward. That is, if you cut off the adenium just a little, then a lush crown will not work. Only one bud will wake up from which one branch develops.

The photo below shows the results of various options for trimming and forming the crown of the adenium.

There is another option for pruning and forming the crown of the adenium. The stem of the plant and the upper part of the caudex are completely cut off, that is, deep pruning is carried out. As a result, up to 15 sleeping buds wake up. In the process of growth, not all formed branches survive, but the number of remaining shoots is very large, which is considered ugly for adenium.

There are several basic rules for pruning and forming the crown of adeniums:

2. All weak shoots should be removed. They will dry out over time, but their timely removal stimulates the growth of healthy branches of the plant.

4. The number of branches of the second, third and so on order should increase according to a geometric progression.

5. When thinning the crown of an old adenium, sections on the branches must be carried out at the dormant bud, which looks outward from the crown. In this case, 5 mm above the stem is measured from the dormant bud, and the rest (what is left above) is cut off.

Do not prune if the plant is sick. More details about diseases of adenium. Why do adenium leaves and soft caudex dry??

Cropping and shaping the crown of adenium in the photo

Water adenium 2 days before pruning. This watering should be planned, you cannot overmoisten the flower. The explanation for this state of affairs is simple: we cut off the crown of the plant, and with it the leaves. Leaves are the main agent in the process of evaporation of moisture from the flower. In waterlogged soil and without leaves, the adenium will have nowhere to put the excess moisture and it can rot.

If a transplant has been carried out, then it is better not to prune at least 2 weeks after the transplant. Although many growers recommend transplanting and pruning the crown at the same time, this is wrong, since many cut the roots during transplanting. If the crown of the adenium is removed at the same time, it may die.

Step 1. A plant is prepared directly with which a sharp blade will be worked. It is better not to use it anywhere in the future, since adenium juice is poisonous. It is also recommended to place the plant after pruning out of the reach of children and pets.

Step 2. The crown of adenium is cut off at the required height, as described above. The stalk that has formed can be rooted. Of course, the caudex in a rooted cuttings will develop more slowly than the caudex of adenium from seeds, but in this way two can be obtained from one plant.

Step 3. Juice will begin to stand out on the cut. It is removed with a napkin. After the juice ceases to stand out, the cut site must be smeared with garden varnish or a special paste. It can be purchased at a flower shop. Colloidal sulfur and crushed activated carbon are not used for smearing sections of adenium. They are more suitable for roots. If you use them, you get an ugly cut that does not heal for a long time.

Important!!! After trimming, a plastic bag can be put on the adenium. Thus, the cut site is kept in a humid environment. This, according to experts, stimulates wound healing and the awakening of dormant kidneys. Cytokinin paste can be used to grow dormant buds.

Intensive growth of branches begins in the period from 14 to 45 days. It all depends on the conditions for keeping the flower.

Pruning the roots of adenium

In what cases is adenium root pruning carried out? This is done during the formation of caudex, less often when the root system decays.

So, the most popular way to form caudex in adenium is octopus. In this case, all the roots of the plant are cut off on that part of the caudex that tapers downward. If you do not want to cut off the caudex and thus form the roots of the adenium, you can simply raise its root system slightly above the ground during transplanting the plant.

When is the first pruning of adenium roots done? Some growers suggest pruning the main coruna from adenium as early as 1-3 months. After removal of the central root, the lateral root system begins to grow intensively and increase in volume. By raising it above the ground during plant transplantation, you can form a lush caudex of a bizarre shape. But as practice shows, cutting off the central root of seedlings at the age of 1-3 months does not lead to anything good. In some cases, a flower begins to develop one replacement root, which will dominate over time and no fancy root system is formed. But for the most part, seedlings react painfully to pruning of the central root, slow down their growth, and rot if not properly cared for.

It is too late to prune the roots if the adenium is already 2-3 years old. This plant is already fully formed, complete removal of the roots (if desired, to form an octopus) can lead to its death. With an adult adenium, you can proceed as follows: trim its crown (this way the sleeping buds on the stem wake up and a lush crown is obtained). The remaining stalk is rooted. A rooted cutting does not give a central root, but develops lateral roots. By correctly directing the latter, you can form a large caudex in the shape of an octopus.

It is recommended to prune the roots of seedlings under 1 year old (5-6 months). In such seedlings, either one central root is removed, or the lower part of the caudex is cut off completely, which makes it possible to form an octopus.

Pruning and shaping an octopus in an adenium seedling

For the first pruning, strong adenium seedlings are selected, the age of which reaches a year, although you can experiment with young seedlings up to six months. In the latter case, you need to be prepared for the fact that the plant will slow down its growth. Although if you take very small seedlings that have not yet had time to properly form the central root, then pruning is not needed. When transplanting, it is enough to spread the roots of the flower in a circle on a dense plate and sprinkle it with earth. Over time, the roots will begin to grow and an octopus will form.

Photo-instructions for the formation of the caudex of an octopus in an adenium seedling:

Important!!! Pruning of adenium seedlings is carried out during a period of intensive growth. If the seeds were planted in the fall, then the period of intensive growth at the seedlings begins in May-June, then the central root can be cut. It is not recommended to cut off the crown of the plant at the same time.

Step 1. Seedlings up to 1 year old are removed from the ground. Their root system is cleared of soil, you can rinse. This makes pruning easier.

Step 2. A sharp, sterile blade is used to cut the central root of the adenium. You need to be very careful, because the plant sap is poisonous. It is recommended to blot the sections with a napkin. After the juice on the cut ceases to stand out, it is poured either with molten paraffin, or sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

Step 3. It is necessary to allow the slices to dry. Some do this within 3 days, but as practice shows, during this time the cuttings lose a lot of water and become lethargic. Such planting material takes root very poorly. Experts recommend drying trimmed adeniums for no more than a day. This is done in a dry place in partial shade.

Step 4. Rooting of adeniums is carried out in perlite, which is well moisturized. First, you need to put a piece of plastic cut in a circle into the perlite. Adeniums are placed on it and sprinkled with soil.

Important!!! The top layer of soil, where the adenium is on the plastic mug, dries up very quickly. It must be regularly moistened with a spray bottle.

After pruning, adenium is placed in a sunny place. The temperature of the content should be within +25 ... + 30 degrees. The higher the temperature of the plant, the less the likelihood of decay of the cut site. It is not necessary to organize a greenhouse over the seedlings. It is enough to spray them with warm water 1-2 times a day.

After pruning, the roots begin to grow after 1 month. Adenium is removed from perlite. You can see tightly matted roots, which grow in a circle with the right approach. They are unraveled, weak roots are cut. In order for the roots of adenium to grow in the right direction, the plant is returned to the plastic circle, while the root system is slightly raised above the ground. Between the roots, you can put pieces of foam or fix the roots in the desired direction with toothpicks.