Do-it-yourself sewer blockage elimination has been and remains a topical issue. Once upon a time, the plumber to Uncle Vasya, who was far from always sober and efficient, could not be reached, and meanwhile it flowed and flowed onto the floor. Now quite qualified masters come to the call when it has not reached the floor yet, but, excuse me, the tariffs ... Meanwhile, any blockage of the apartment sewage system and most of the local faults on the site is quite possible to eliminate on your own. Work on self-cleaning of sewer pipes will go much easier, simpler and cleaner if the means for its implementation are chosen according to the nature of the blockage and its location in the sewer system.
What is the blockage?
How to eliminate a sewer blockage at home depends primarily on its nature. In order of decreasing the frequency of occurrence of blockages in the domestic sewage system, there are the following:
- Grease plug - grease-cemented kitchen residues and particles of household dirt;
- Hair, animal hair;
- Rolls of fabric pile;
- Foreign water-insoluble or swelling objects and substances: coins, badges, food scraps, paper, fabrics; in the local street sewerage - the roots of plants growing into the pipes;
- Hard deposits on the pipe walls;
- Abundant fecal matter and toilet paper.
Note: bituminous plugs sometimes form in sewer wells with not intensive runoff; plumbers say - "the hat is up." The cap is removed by hand with a scoop, and the residual dirt after it is cleaned with a cable.
The fat plug develops within 1-5 days, while the permeability of the sewage system gradually decreases. If, while the drains are still leaving, let hot water run for 5-15 minutes, the permeability improves, but then drops again. Symptoms of a hair and lint blockage are similar, but they develop more slowly, up to 3-4 weeks. Hair is usually visible on the drain. If, at the same time, the water seal (siphon) is not cleaned of hair, but simply pierced with a plunger, the hair blockage provokes the formation of a dense, extensive and difficult to remove fat plug.
The blockage of foreign objects develops suddenly. The complete or, more often, partial obstruction of the sewage system then remains stable for a long time until the pile collects in front of the obstacle and / or a fat plug forms. More often occurs in systems from old, with reduced pipe lumen from deposits.
Poor due to deposits in pipes, the permeability of the sewage system develops very slowly, over the years, so that tenants, as a rule, have time to get used to it, but it can cause a disgusting emergency clogging with feces. Fecal blockage occurs suddenly, most often in 3 cases. The first is when a toilet connected to an old sewer is used intensively by a large number of people, for example, during a crowded festival with a rich meal. The second - under the same conditions, foreign objects got into the system and got stuck in the riser. The third - a crazy cunning neighbor from below put a catcher pin into the riser. Which, by the way, is strictly prohibited and threatens him with serious sanctions in addition to compensation for damage to the victims.
Where is the blockage?
Cleaning the sewer pipes is greatly facilitated and gives less dirt to the outside, if the means and methods for it are chosen in accordance with the intended location of the blockage:
- Fat plug can occur anywhere; most often in the kitchen. If the owners decided to save on a siphon for the sink and made a water seal for it, bending the standard drain corrugation in a U-shape, the regular appearance of fat plugs in it is guaranteed. Also - in a lounger under the outlet to the sink, if the slope of the pipe is less than 2 cm / m or more than 5 cm / m. Also at the joints of pipes, if the sewage system with sealing is performed incorrectly, see below. The cork from kitchen residues is usually easily pierced with a plunger or removed by chemical means, see below. To push through the plug, provoked by other contaminants, you have to most often use a cable, because In this case, aggressive chemicals must be poured into the pipe so much that it will damage the pipe and / or cause leaks at the joints.
- Hair is collected in the bath siphon, they must be removed from there when the first signs of clogging with a snake cable appear, see below.
- Lint accumulates from the water seal of the washing machine, or, if there is no separate drain from it, from the bathtub or washbasin. A radical remedy to eliminate the blockage with a pile, as well as to avoid its further consequences - to substitute a bucket under the siphon, unscrew the standard cleaning hatch on it and remove the contamination with a snake.
- The fecal blockage is localized in the toilet seat seal, fan tee, or in the downstream section of the riser. If the toilet bowl is earthenware, and the fan crosspiece and riser are cast iron, you can clean the toilet bowl from the blockage without risking turning into a semblance of its contents, you can use modern means of chemical cleaning of the sewage system. Otherwise (any plastic), you will have to use a cable in a plastic sheath with a plastic ruff or a homemade sparing cable (see below).
- Small hard objects (coins, brooches, earrings, etc.) can settle anywhere. In this case, breaking through the blockage, and even removing the object, is often possible with a cable with a conventional spiral nozzle. Large objects most often have to be pushed until the lounger exits the riser or cesspool (septic tank) with a cable with a smooth sliding knife attachment (in plastic pipes) or a shark's tooth knife (in cast iron). See below for plumbing cable attachments.
How to remove grease
It is undesirable to pierce the fat plugs only with a plunger, because fat deposits remain on the pipe walls and, over time, a hard-to-remove old cork forms. Therefore, after pushing the plug with a plunger (if possible), you need to completely clear the blockage in the sink, completing it with chemistry and rinsing.Cleaning the sewage system from fatty contamination begins with the devices farthest from the riser. If the sink in the kitchen is double, the sink farther from the common drain into the lounger is cleaned first; at the same time, the drain of the nearest one is reliably muffled with a cork or improvised means (rag, etc.). You also need to drown out the drain and the overflow of the bath.
If the drain of the washing machine is stationary, its hose must be disconnected from the additional siphon pipe, and the pipe must be plugged securely, or the hose must be bent in half and tightly (but not squeezed!) Tied. In general, the best way to avoid drains from entering the washer in case of blockage is to equip it with a separate drain through a gooseneck 700-850 mm high and a water seal. It is even safer, but more troublesome, to drain the washing machine into the bathtub or sink.
During the cleaning process, the first thing to do is open the siphon hatches, starting from the kitchen, and their contents are released or emptied into a bucket. Then the hatches are closed and chemistry is applied in the same order, according to the instructions for the tool or according to the description for the homemade one (see below). After that, the system is flushed with hot (50-60 degrees) water at the rate of a bucket for each meter of pipe length, counting the drains from the devices.
Means and devices
It is possible to clean the sewer pipes yourself. ways:
- Ultrasonic.
- Chemical - using purchased or improvised reagents.
- Hydromeumatic - plunger.
- Mechanical - plumbing cable with a nozzle. Options - a cable as part of a cleaning machine and a snake cable for hair and lint.
Ultrasound
About 30 and even 20 years ago, ultrasonic cleaning of pipes seemed like a panacea for sewerage: ultrasound broke any pollution into a tiny suspension that freely passes through the pipe. However, it soon became clear that ultrasound not only quickly spoils any pipes and causes joint leaks, but also has a very harmful effect on human health. Nowadays, ultrasonic pipe cleaning is only used in an industrial environment, subject to strict safety measures.
Note: if you have once purchased an ultrasonic washing machine and have not yet got rid of it, please note that washing with ultrasound quickly wears out not only your things, but also your health.
Chemistry
Chemistry simply and without accompanying dirt removes not old and not extensive fatty plugs, i.e. the most common type of blockages. But any chemical remedy for blockages is very aggressive. Do not believe the advertising claims about their harmlessness to pipes. For example, Mister Muscle seems to be a reliable remedy from a trusted manufacturer. But, we read on the label - "... dissolves ... including hair." However, hair is composed of keratin, which is more chemically resistant than almost any plastic except high pressure polyethylene and fluoroplastic. For the composition, active ingredients and forms of release of chemicals for cleaning sewers, see next. video.
Video: about tools for punching pipes and their composition
Note: Potkhan proved to be a relatively gentle means of cleaning the grease plugs of plastic pipes. But when using it, a large amount of dirty foam is released, which on the sink / bathtub is made of acrylic or PVC may leave indelible marks.
Regularly clean the sewer with chemical means, without planning every 5-7 years to repair it with the replacement of pipes, it is possible only if the system is cast-iron, and the joints are minted with linen cable on paraffin or (in the external sewer) are filled with lead. Cast iron is passivated under the action of acids and alkalis: a dense film of stable chemical compounds forms on its surface. Once upon a time, sulfuric acid was transported by rail in cast iron tanks.
With improvised means
It is most often possible to clear the blockage in the pipes with fat without resorting to purchased chemicals. In addition, homemade sewer pipe cleaners are generally more gentle, and some are generally harmless to pipes and joints. Disadvantages of homemade chemicals - you need to wait for cleaning from half an hour (sometimes up to a day), and 100% efficiency is not guaranteed. In ascending order of chemical aggressiveness, you can clean the sewer system with improvised means. ways:
- Any dish detergent - absolutely does not affect the system. A fresh cork breaks through within half an hour; per day approx. in 50% of cases old.
- Soda - less effective than the previous one, with systematic use it spoils PVC pipes.
- Soda and salt - works better than before, but worse than synthetic detergent. The pipes and joints are affected as before.
- Soda and vinegar - in terms of strength of action, comparable to the best branded products, however pipes and devices (sinks, bathtubs) made of PVC can spoil with a single use, acrylic and propylene spoils when systematic. It also spoils cast iron: it removes the surface film from it.
Detergent
It is possible to clean the drainage system from grease with dishwashing detergents if its permeability is negligible (barely leaks out) or none at all. Hot water is poured into the sink so that 2-3 cm remains to the edge. Then, from the bottle directly above the drain, a thin, half-match thick, a trickle of detergent is started. If its trickle goes into the drain - well, it will clean up faster. In this case, the detergent is periodically admitted, and when a good drain goes, hot water is allowed for 5-10 minutes, adding the detergent. Then, for 3-5 minutes, give a copious rinse with hot water.
If the obstruction is complete, the detergent is allowed over the drain until a puddle of it forms under the water. Pour it sparingly, it won't get any worse. Then they wait. Within half an hour with fresh pollution and a day with old, a loud smack is heard and water pooles into the pipe. Now you need to rinse, as before. case.
Soda and salt
A glass of baking soda or a glass of soda and a glass of salt are poured into the drain. Hot water is turned on a little for a short time so that the reagents go to the blockage. Then they wait half an hour or an hour and start hot water. Passes - washed, as before. case. No - a rather weak remedy, you need to apply another.
Soda and vinegar
3/4 cup of soda (150 g) is poured into the drain and 150 ml of table vinegar is poured. The drain is immediately tightly closed with a cork or plugged with a rag and wait 15-30 minutes, making sure that the cork / plug is not squeezed out by foam. Then rinse abundantly with hot water.
Pneumatics and mechanics
The hydropneumatic and mechanical methods of cleaning the sewage system (see Fig.) Complement each other: they use a plunger for primary cleaning or when the cable obviously does not pass. By the way, keep in mind: plumbing cables are available with a diameter of 2.5 mm. Rotate the cable during cleaning.
Ventuz
You can clean the sewer with a plunger by pumping and water hammer. The latter method is more effective, but applicable only for plastic sewers assembled on high-quality cuffs. After cleaning with a plunger, the sewer must be cleaned with chemistry or a cable and rinsed.
It is known how to pump a blockage with a plunger: the drain is closed with a plunger cap, water is allowed in until it covers the cap, and pumped with force 20 or more times. Then the cap is torn off by lifting its edge. If the blockage is swung, the water will noisily go into the drain.
When cleaning with a water hammer, they initially act in the same way. Then, lifting the edge of the cap, they run water under it, which is noticeable by the emerging bubbles. Then, abruptly, with force, press vertically on the handle, again run water under the cap, and do this 5-6 times at intervals of 10-30 seconds.
Note: a plunger with a high and soft corrugated cap is not suitable for cleaning with water hammer.
For pumping with a water hammer, hydro and pneumatic valves are currently produced, see Fig. However, the sewerage system, in which they are applicable, must be assembled in full compliance with TU and tested under pressure upon delivery.
Cable
A plumbing cable for plastic sewage must be taken in a PVC sheath (preferably in Teflon) and with a soft brush, at the top left in Fig. If you have a local sewage system on your site, then instead of a cable, it is advisable to get a manual cleaning machine, at the bottom left. Both are inapplicable if the odor trap with a drain from a thin-walled plastic corrugation (on the right in the figure), even if the siphon is a U-elbow that is known to be passed by a cable. In this case, you must first clean the siphon, disconnect the drain from the outlet and then use the cable.
To clear a blockage in the bathroom from hair or a washing machine from lint, use a flat snake cable, see next. rice. The device is disposable: upon application, the snake with the captured muck is thrown away. You can do a snake cleaning with your own hands by spiraling a plastic bottle onto a strip in a spiral. At one end of a homemade snake, a finger grip ring is cut out, and notches at an angle of 45 degrees to the back are made with side cutters.
Cable-rope
A good plumbing cable is not cheap and is difficult to completely disinfect at home. However, excellent plumbing cable comes from ... coaxial cable for cable TV distribution and long segments of high-speed computer networks. Twisted pair, by the way, is not suitable - it cannot withstand rotation.
A homemade plumbing cable from a cable must, firstly, be equipped with a spiral nozzle from a compression spring (with rarefied coils). Spring wire - 2-2.5 mm in diameter. The ends of it must be smoothed with a file, and it is highly desirable to also pull the free one with round-nose pliers on a gentle cone.
The inner diameter of the spring should be slightly smaller than the cable diameter. The spring is pulled onto the cable, rotating against the twisting of the coils (who is familiar with the weapon - like the return spring of the bolt on the PM barrel). Then the coils of the spring will disperse when screwing in and it will fit on the cable, and if the spring is released, it will tightly grab it. The cable must have at least 8-10 turns of the spring at a length of at least 7 cm; 3-5 turns should be left free.
Then you need to finally fix the spring attachment and provide it with a soft, not damaging plastic, but wear-resistant shell. To do this, silicone sealant is squeezed into a suitable container (for example, a disposable plastic beer glass) so that the entire end of the cable with a spring can be dipped into it. Silicone is diluted to the consistency of yogurt or kefir by adding a little table alcohol (not apple cider!) Vinegar and stirring. The end of the cable is dipped into the sealant several times, drying it with a household hairdryer after each dipping.
After that, it remains only to pass the cable-cable into a steel or rigid plastic tube and attach a handle to its free end. With such a cable, it is even possible to break through the drain to the cesspool of the country sewage system 34 m long (!), And the pipe lies in the ground with a bend of 120 degrees (!!!).
About roots in pipes
Of course, against the roots that have sprouted into the sewer pipes, a cable with a non-replaceable nozzle is useless. However, it is possible to prevent the ingrowth of roots into the pipes if they are assembled with a silicone seal. In this case, the rollers of the squeezed out sealant should not be in the pipe, otherwise blockages will go. That is, you need to collect the drain from the cesspool / septic tank to the house: apply sealant to the cuff, insert the cuff into the branch pipe. Apply sealant to the end of the trail. pipes, insert it into the cuff, etc.
How to be with a riser
Poor maneuverability of a sewer riser overgrown with a bloom from the inside entails emergency and very dirty blockages. However, do not rush to add up more than 5 thousand rubles. from an apartment to, to start a rout in the house, to be deprived of conveniences for quite a long time and then lay out even more for repairing bathrooms. First inspect the old cast-iron riser: if it is not emergency, then it will be better to clean it from plaque. Cast iron, in addition to high corrosion resistance, also has excellent antiacoustic properties. What does not mean emergency? Whole, without cracks, fistulas, rust stains, traces of welding and / or plumbing work on it, and with tight, non-flowing joints.
To clean the sewer riser, you will need a cleaning machine with a set of nozzles; you can rent it or hire a master who owns it. If the house is higher than 3-4 floors, then a manual machine will no longer cope, you need to use a mobile machine on a bed, manual or electric. Initially, the riser is passed (from the roof to the basement) with a 4-blade toothed knife, and cleaned with a smooth sliding knife, see fig. After cleaning, rinse with a hose with a spray nozzle, on the right in Fig. A cast-iron riser cleaned in this way will probably last no less than before. Many houses are known with perfectly serviceable cast-iron risers 100-120 years old.