Most builders noted that during the repair of an apartment or at home one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling of plaster or any other material.

It bothers the rapid performance of the work and the irregularities of various tiled overlaps, and the fact that the angles are almost never correspond to each other, and many other details. Hide all these flaws today is difficult enough. And rather, not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will consider the step-by-step instructions for the installation of a ceiling of plasterboard, which has a huge amount of advantages, ranging from ease of installation and ending with acceptable prices.

What instruments will need?

If you think about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then you should prioritize various preparatory to the main work of work, namely: it is important to purchase construction materials necessary for quick installation, as well as prepare all tools.

In order to establish an independent two-level ceiling of drywall you will need:

• Water type level in order to accurately mark the place in which the guide level will be installed.

• For rapidly drill various holes, any perforator.
• Scissors that can be cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Schuropvuth for fastening GLK, as well as profile.
• Ruleta

Installation of carcass

The first thing you need to do is choose a place for future markup of the place where the guide profile will be installed. Tags should be applied after in all tanks water will be at one level.

How much exactly to retreat from the construction ceiling of centimeters to solve only to you, however, most builders offer to see the photo of the plasterboard ceiling to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After completing the work of the first stage, that is, after the markup will be made on each wall, you can move to the drill of several holes under the dowel. For this, the perforator is used.

After the installation of the guide profile is completed using the cooked roulette directly around the perimeter, it is necessary to make a mark with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to make a fairly simple design, consisting only from one level, then there is no need to install popular C-shaped profiles immediately in two directions. It is enough to make marking exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can move to the fastening of the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct suspensions, you can move to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent ceiling over the sheets.

Ceiling decoration

To date, a huge number of various ways to decorate the ceiling are offered. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry in stores, you can find many different decorative materials that will allow decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend exclusively from taste preferences and financial capabilities. Someone prefers gypsum modeling, and someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of trends in fashion, because they quickly pass, but you definitely live with new repairs alone and not two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you an exceptionally joy from look at him and the room has created a feeling of comfort.

Once you decide what the perfect ceiling after repair looks like for you, it is important to estimate whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is positive, then you can safely go to the building materials store and choose what will allow Quickly realize your dreams about the perfect ceiling in reality.

There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating suspended ceilings using drywall.

It is only necessary to remember that before doing something, it is necessary to think about several times, since such a ceiling is not installed for a year and not even five years.

Note!

Stock Foto Ceiling of plasterboard

Note!

The ceiling of the plasterboard requires knowledge of the material from A to Z. After studying the information about the installation, boldly proceed to the installation of GLC with your own hands. Conduct competent design of the design without special skills, the main thing is to know how it is done. Technology of crates and laying sheets for single-level and multi-tiered systems is slightly different, but we will look at all possible options.

Suspended ceiling, like the other cladding, requires the installation of the frame. Unlike wall decoration, metal profiles and direct suspensions are used for the ceiling, which provides the ability to securely secure the system. We will tell you more about the mounting below. Information is supplemented with videos in which the installation is clearly shown.

What material to choose?

The design of plasterboard on the ceiling looks presentable if it is correct to install it. But long before the start of work, you should decide on the class of material that will be used as a facing. If the information presented below seems not enough, then you can explore the video where it is described in detail about the types of drywall. Now let's say a few words about each of them:

1. GLC These are standard sheets. Gypsum will be covered with gray cardboard. For ceilings of residential premises, a lightweight material with a thickness of 9.5 mm is used.
2. GVL. These are the so-called gypsum fiber sheets. Material is not covered with cardboard than different from the above described. It is characterized by the resistance to fire and hardness.
3. GVLV is GVL, which is used in conditions of high humidity.

1. GKLO. Fire-resistant material, modified GKK. Such sheet options are used in production.
2. G Clac. Water resistant class of plasterboard. Such material differs in external features - the green cardboard is used when cladding.
3. G CLEBO is an improved variation of G Clac, which, in addition to the advantages of HCCV material, is characterized by refractory.

In terms of home assembly, the ceiling is used all types of material, except GKLO and GKLVo. For the arrangement of bathrooms and the kitchen area, the use of HCLV due to the resistance to moisture is preferable. The mounting scheme of plasterboard in these rooms is considered in many videos.

What will be needed for the crate

Frame installation technology provides for the use of metal profiles. The best options are cold-made galvanized products with a thickness of at least 0.55 mm. If you use more subtle profiles, then drywall structures on the ceiling are certainly deformed. More often to arrange the framework of the framework of 3 or 4 m in length. If necessary, the lamp can be created with their own hands from elements of other sizes.

Note! To facilitate the installation, the manufacturer provides holes under the dowel on the profileUD.. If it happened so that the product was purchased without them, it will have to be drilled in the right places.

So what elements except profiles are used to improve the framework of the frame?

1. Direct or P-shaped suspension. Appointment appointment - fastening steel profiles to overlapping. If the length of the product is not enough, then you can resort to the installation of the spring suspension with the crochet.
2. Crab. It is a single-level connector. Used for the device of the cross-shaped fastening of steel elements in one horizontal plane at an angle of 90 degrees.
3. Corner connector. It is used to fix one detail.
4. Duplex retainer. Used to connect profiles on different tiers. Mounting with your own hands with the help of such a detail is carried out custody. In this case, the fixation of the parts occurs strictly one for the other.

These are the most common elements for the constructions of the crate. For fastening parts used screws, dowels. How to perform a lattice for plasterboard on a simplified scheme, look at the video.

Ceiling markup and preparation of rough base

After the correct calculation of the materials proceed to the preparation of the overlap. For reliable installation, remnants of old plaster from the ceiling are removed. The base does not need to be processed by primer or putty, but it is recommended to use antiseptics.

The next stage is marking. There are several rules and recommendations here that will affect the further installation of the installation. The first thing is determined by the horizontal regarding which the installation is carried out. To do this, find the lowest angle indoors, retreat from a rough base of 40-50 mm and put a mark in this place. From this point and begins the dance.

Next, do your own hands on the walls using a painting cord. Alternatively, you can use the thread moistened in the blue. Strictly follow the level during the markup. The laser level will ensure high accuracy, but the instrument is also suitable for water.

When working, consider such nuances:

1. Passing around the perimeter of the room, the line must return to the starting point. Any displacement is unacceptable.
2. When applied to the adjustment on the adjacent walls, place the level on the plane itself, and in the corners.
3. The marking from the walls is transferred to the ceiling, where the points of fixation of direct, spring or P-shaped suspensions are noted.

At the end of the work in front of the eye there should be a cellular mesh. The size of the squares depend on the selected step, but more often it is 60 x 60. Closer to the walls of the cells, other dimensions are half. You need to withstand symmetry from the opposite side. Conducting the ceiling markup to install GLCs, see the video at the end of the information block.

Installation of the suspension system

After installation, the crates start the installation of HCL. The device of suspended ceilings is made along the strict scheme. Plasterboard sheets themselves fix with their own hands perpendicular to the framework profiles of the frame. Dock them exactly in the middle of the profiles. This is done for greater reliability of the system.

Glk Ceiling Frame
Ceiling construction scheme

Important! GLK attachment technology provides for several installers. One person can damage the big leaf.

The installation scheme does not differ in difficulty. The following steps are performed:

1. The number of materials is calculated. For bunk structures and ceilings of complex shapes take sheets with a margin of approximately 20%, and for simple enough and 10%.
2. GLCs are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. Screws robbed into sheets so that their caps "drowned" about 2-3 mm.
3. Distance between self-pressing is 300 mm. From the corners of plasterboard, the indent is 10 times less.
4. Screws in the GLCs screw themselves at a distance of approximately 1 cm from the edge of each sheet. At the same time, it is impossible to forget about the step between the screws.

Important! Screwing closer to the edge is fraught with a slicer of material. If the oversight occurred, screw the other screw after 30-40 mm from the scum of the previous one.

Installation scheme provides some nuances. The first - a narrow profile is mounted in the corners of the premises. This makes the fixation of a sheet of drywall problematic. Second - the depth of screwing all the screws should be approximately equal. This will allow you to spend high-quality plaster with your own hands. The suspension system should consist of a material of one manufacturer. Otherwise, there are problems with the connection of GLC.

Conducting painting work

Finish finish is the final stage. A common method of plasterboard cladding do-it-painting. But preparatory work is carried out before that. For starters acquire plaster. It is better to choose a building materials of plastic type. Next, the spatula is applied to the following places:

• glKl docking spaces;
• screwing points of screws;
• on the sickle, which is used for the reinforcement of the ceiling.

After that, the entire ceiling is already treated. When putting down multi-level ceilings, pay attention to the transitions to other levels and angular zones. The last barcode is the application of the leveling layer, after drying which it is worth walking the sandpaper. The sealing tape is used at the docking points of the drywall with the walls.

Only then a layer of primer is applied to the putty. It is recommended to repeat the priming procedure to secure the result. Then it is worth letting the ceiling to dry. After that, you can already start painting. Preference is worth paying water or acrylic. Such formulations are not distinguished into the premises of harmful substances and differ in resistance to chemical reagents.

It should be noted that the water circuit does not prevent the water vapor filtering in wooden houses. Some experts consider acrylic paints the best. They possess the benefits of water-level, but in addition to this, the coating can be washed.

Summarizing

The scheme of the work of the suspended ceiling structure, which is described above, will create a smooth and neat ceiling coating. But the desired result can be achieved only in the case of technology. In another situation there is a risk to carry out poor quality installation. Installation details are considered in the video after the article.

Here is an instruction that describes the installation of the ceiling of plasterboard. It is quite detailed and understandable even to those who did not come across Glk. All stages are considered - from the project to the draft finish. In addition to standard techniques, you will learn some tricks that save time or money. At the beginning of the article there are lists of necessary tools and materials, as well as the conditions recommended for such work. Then a brief order of work is then given. And from the next section, which is called "Plan and Calculations", the detailed description of each stage begins directly.

How starts the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling

With wall decoration. The fact is that the correct installation of plasterboard on the ceiling requires perfect. So before the start of the ceiling works, the walls should be prepared for the final finish (plastered and sharpclowns). Or at least trimmed by plasterboard.

The future ceiling also needs to be prepared. Remove the old finish if it hurts. Secure all communications on the overlap - wires, air ducts, pipes.

Rules for mounting the ceiling from drywall almost the same as for. There are difficulties. But in general, the undertaking is worth it, even if you first encountered GLK. Of course, it is desirable for the installation of plasterboard ceilings that you will be at least a little able to handle the power tools and have some physical strength.

What will be required for the device of a plasterboard ceiling

You will have to work with long and relatively hard materials. You will surely need an assistant.

From the tools will be necessary:

• water or laser level;
• pencil;
• marker;
• metal scissors (Bulgarian approach);
• perforator;
• a hammer;
• sculpture and several Crusters PH2.

The list of tools and devices should be supplemented, which will greatly facilitate your work:

Clear cable
Special bits for plasterboard with limiter

It will be worth it and the usual building level. If you do not have a hydraulic level or laser level and have nowhere to get them, you can do and ordinary.

Cunning: how to do without a laser level

1. Secure the usual power level on a long, ideal direct bar;
2. put the bar on the obviously horizontal surface;
3. if the bubble is not exactly in the middle, impose a thin wedge under the corresponding end of the level. Try to perfectly align the bubble;
4. turn the bar 180 °. Make sure that in this position the bubble is exactly in the middle.

So instead of a short and inaccurate level, you got a long and accurate.

Also need tools for finishing. The list will depend on the variety of finishes, but in any case, it is necessary:

• spatulas - narrow and wide;
• bucket (or other comfortable capacity).

It is advisable to have a nozzle on the drill () for mixing the building mixtures.

Elementary bench will help. Forget about the swirling - it's inconvenient to work on them. Cheat from the board or twist from the chipboard a simple bench. Calculate its height so that 10-15 cm remains over your head to the future surface of the ceiling.

List of materials:

• guide profile;
• ceiling profile;
• single-level connectors ("crabs");
• longitudinal connectors (if longitudinal profiles are required longer than 3 meters);
• suspensions straight (for height up to 20 cm);
• the suspensions are anchor + thrust (for a height of more than 20 cm);
• dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm
• or wood screws for wooden walls and overlaps (black, with a rare thread pitch);
• self-tapping screws with a press washer of 4.2 x 13 mm (silver, without a bru-head);
• (black, with frequent thread pitch)
• and plasterboard itself;
• as well as ;
• and serpent.

How many materials do you need? To have enough, but not surplus left, you need an accurate calculation. How to do it, read in the section "Scheme and Calculations".

Work plan

Conditionally divide the installation of GLC on the ceiling for five large stages. Next, each section of the article will describe these stages with all the details.

1. Scheme and calculations;
2. markup;
3. installation of profiles and suspensions;
4. installation of plasterboard;
5. finish /

Measuring the room and make up the scheme, you will get a clear idea how much the materials need.

Mounting drywall on the ceiling requires accuracy. So that the design does not turn, you need to mark with great accuracy to mark up the perimeter of the room.

Now we consider the number of profiles. Technology of plasterboard ceilings Next: First, the guide metal profile is fixed around the perimeter. Ceiling profiles are inserted into it and attached to it. Additionally, profiles are fastened with overlap suspension.

Mounting Mounting Plasterboard Ceilings

Important: Mounting Rules Guide Profile

There should be no intervals between segments of the guide profile. In the corner one profile is inserted into the other until it stops. On the same plane, the profile segments are connected into the joint. If there is an outer angle, then one of the profile segments should stick to 27mm. Thus, it turns out a solid belt from the guide profile.

To count the number of dowel-nails, focus on the mount approximately every 40-50 cm.

Long ceiling profile segments are installed exactly every 50 cm. Plasterboard plates are located acrossthem. Thus, the edges of each sheet will fall clearly to the middle of the profile. No land should hang in the air! The edges adjacent to the walls will be attached directly to the guide profile.

Along the longitudinal profiles jumpers are inserted. It is a segment of the same ceiling profile, installed in a step of 60 cm. The principle is the same: all edges of each leaf of GKC should get to the middle of the profile. The middle of the sheet must also be fixed. Length of the jumper \u003d 50 cm minus the width of the ceiling profile (60 mm), that is, 44 cm.

The suspensions are installed along the entire length of the longitudinal profiles with a step of 60 cm.

For clarity, mark all the profiles in your scheme, so as not to be mistaken in the counting. Each intersection of the ceiling profiles is one crab and three screws for metal (with pressshabba).

Self-tapping screws are screwed in 15 cm in increments. Just take the total length of all profiles in centimeters and divide it to 15.

Buy the shplanyovka with the calculation of 1 kg of the finished mixture by 1 m 2 of about 3 kg per sheet. Kilogram is precisely the finished mixture, not powder.

Materials worth buying with a slight stock - about 20%. Quickly calculate the desired calculator.

Marking

So, we start directly installing the ceiling drywall.

Typically, plasterboard on the ceiling is mounted strictly horizontally. Arm yourself and get ready to draw a horizontal line throughout the perimeter of the room. You can restrict ourselves to short strokes every half meter. The main thing is that the ends of the markup come out exactly at the same level.

It is important to correct location of plasterboard sheets on the ceiling

To not buy tools

It makes no sense to buy quite expensive equipment for one-time work. Tools such as laser level, perforator and screwdriver can be rented.

You can draw a pencil line for a long direct bar. For this purpose, a piece of ceiling profile will fit. You can put marks only in the corners, then drive the carnations and pull the lace. But it is even easier to stretch between these marks of the chalk cord and slapped them along the wall - there will remain an impeccable, straight and well-noticeable line.

This markup will have to establish a guide profile. Remember that the finishing surface of the ceiling will be approximately the centimeter below.

Next, you need to place the installation sites of the ceiling profiles. Put the marks directly on the wall, immediately under the fastening line of the guide profile. They must be visible even after installing the sheets of GLK. Apply the strokes with a step of 50 cm to install long ceiling profiles, with a step of 60 cm - for jumpers.

It remains to mark the location of the longitudinal profile with jumpers. On the metal paint the marker. Slip strokes every 60 centimeters on longitudinal profiles. You can make it even before you install them in the guide profiles. Mark those ends from which you started: they all should be on one side of the room.

Installation of profiles and suspensions

Drill the guide profile by the drill of a 6 mm drill with a pitch of about 40 cm. In principle, it is possible to punch with a perforator directly at the installation site. When you raise the wall, hold the profile tightly. Watch that it does not move relative to the markup.

The through drilling of the guide profile is allowed

If you have plasterboard walls, then you need to imagine at what distance from the wall is plasterboard. The working part of the dowel (with a notch) must completely sit in concrete.

On the walls of more than 3 m long, it is necessary to "split" guide profiles by inserting one to another. They also need to be allowed in the corners. Then install longitudinal ceiling profiles by inserting them ends into the guide profile.

Trick: how easier to insert the ceiling profile in the guide

Cut the corners at the ends of the ceiling profile. So it will be much easier to insert it into the guide, especially if you work one.

The suspensions are best installed before you secure the longitudinal profiles and set the jumpers. Just need to be traced that the profiles stood exactly in their places: on them you will navigate where to put the suspensions.

For fastening to concrete, a dowel-nail is usually used. You can also take - he keeps much stronger, but it is much more difficult to dismantle.

Concrete floors in old apartments are cunning. It often happens that the boring, passing a little less centimeter, falls into the void. You can fight such surprises in different ways:

1. take a very long dowel-nail;
2. attach the suspension elsewhere;
3. instead of a dowel-nail dripped a wooden plug and fasten the suspension with a self-tapping screw.

Bashed straight suspension is better not to extreme holes (which in the petals), and in the neighboring, located closer to the middle. Fastening for petals, of course, more convenient: it is easier to get to them when the frame is already assembled. But this method will allow the ceiling to sag a little.

You can use direct suspensions even if the ceiling height from the overlap is greater than 20 cm. Just instead of one suspension you need to use two.

But it is much more convenient to use anchor suspension. Anchor suspension thrust is fastened to overlapping with the same ways as a direct suspension, through the ear, pre-concealed by 90 ° passages. Please note that you only need to bend. The rest of the rod must remain perfect direct.

Where to install the suspensions? Over each of the long ceiling profiles, with a step of about 50-60 cm. They should not get to the locations of the longitudinal and transverse profiles! Focus on the previously applied markup.

Direct suspension

After killing direct suspensions, load the paws 90 ° down. Do it neatly - after folding the paws should remain perfectly straight.

When all the suspensions are nailed, set the longitudinal profiles on the markup (every 50 cm). Secure them with self-drawing through the guide profile, one with each end.

Spin self-tapping screws without drill is not so difficult. The main thing is to use a suitable bit (with the label "PH2"). As you should press on the self-tapping screw (but without fanaticism) and twist on medium turnups. After a second or two sharp tip, the metal blast, and then the self-sufficiency is screwed without difficulty.

Cut the jumper. Please note that the length of the extreme jumpers will not be 44, but 47 cm. Connect the jumpers "crabs".

Cab cement for connecting transverse profiles

Crabs snatch from above. They have special petals with holes for attaching self-drawing to the profile. Generate the petals and attach the crab with one screw to the long profile. Before that, make sure that it does not move relative to the label. Alternatively, two screws turn through the same petals into each jumper.

How to save on crabs

Make jumpers for 6 centimeters longer. Cut the side shelves by 3 cm from each end. The remaining, middle, part is screwed with a self-tapping screw directly to the long ceiling profile from below. Let you do not bother that the self-drawing hat repents a little: it will not be a serious interference for a dense adjacent of drywall.

Options for connecting profiles without using the crab in the photo:

With such economies, the rigidity of the frame will suffer somewhat. Of course, the ceiling will not collapse; It will just be slightly less smooth and durable.

Do not rush to fasten direct suspensions to the profile. The problem is that the profiles of 2 m long and more inevitably sag. Especially if you used the extension cord (longitudinal connector).

Eliminate the sagging with a cord, tightly stretched across all longitudinal profiles:

1. screw by one screw in the guide profile at every end of the room, in the middle of the wall;
2. tie a lace to them and it should be tensioning it;
3. you can see that the long profiles are "lying" on the shoelace. Before fasten the suspensions, lift them so that they hung in 1-2 millimeters above the cord.

When all the suspensions and all jumpers are screwed to longitudinal profiles, the frame is ready. Go to the installation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Installation of sheets of plasterboard

But first you need to make insulation (if in your case it is necessary). There are different ways to insulate the ceiling. Perhaps the most convenient is a mineral wool insulation. Rolled insulation just puts on top of the frame. Work in gloves, glasses and respirator - dust from mineral wool annoys even the skin, not to mention the mucous membranes.

And now you can screw the sheets of GLC. Start from that edge where the whole sheet is placed. Position the sheet across long profiles, close to the walls. If you did everything right and accurately, then the edges of the sheet along the entire length will be exactly in the middle of the ceiling profiles.

Screw sheet to all profiles, and on the edges, and in the middle. On the edge of the self-tapping screws should go around every 15 cm, in the rest of the places you can increase step to 20-25 cm.

How to mount lists

Glk has facial side and wear. The front side of the headset on the longitudinal edges of the sheet and there is a small irregularity. Wide is always flat– for dense fit to the surface.

Screw the screws in ten millimeters from the edge. From the cut edge you need to retreat at least 15 mm. Receive at least five centimeters from the corners!

Self-stress cap is needed to slightly drag into the surface of the plate. Do it carefully: the self-sufficiency is quite easy to drag, especially when there is a shortage of experience. In such a job, a special bits for drywall with a limiter helps.

By labels on the wall you will see where profiles pass. However, you can in advance to spread the sheet of plasterboard, even before you raise it and start securing. Continue a longitudinal row of sheets, end to the end, without gaps. In this work it is difficult to do without assistant.

Fixtures not to keep a sheet of plasterboard

Make a backup. Take the board a little longer than the ceiling height, screw over the segment of the board length about a meter to get the letter "T". Strengthen by two skias. Such a device that looks like a mop using wizards of the whole world when they doinstallation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Methods for mounting the ceiling of GLC without helper:

Using the lift

Homemade List Hold Option on Ceiling

The following row begins with half a sheet. The technology requires that the seams between the sheets do not cross the cross-crosswise. The correct location of the slab resembles a brickwork.

How to cut plasterboard sheets

Knife. Can be stationery. Mark exactly the middle and make an incision on the ruler. You probably remained a piece of ceiling profile - use it as a ruler. The incision may be shallow, sufficiently cut through the paper. Stay under the incision the same profile or put a sheet on the edge of the table and break it. It will only be left to cut the paper on the reverse side.

If you need to cut off a very narrow strip, it is easier to use the tree hacksaw.

Rezany edges need to additionally remove the chamfer. This is necessary for high-quality shtlack. To the same knife cut down from the front of several millimeters at an angle of about 45 °. Accuracy at this stage is not required. Factory longitudinal edges do not touch - they have a fierce chamfer.

Final finish

Strong the ceiling with a roller or a large brush. A small brush thoroughly walk along the seams.

After drying the primer, turn the tape. It is glued only at the butt of two factory seams, as well as on the corners. Immediately after that you can.

Mix the small number of shtlock. At this stage, it is necessary to smear only the seams and deepening from the screws. Apply the shplanyotka by a narrow spatula, then smash wide.

According to technology, we need to put the seams twice. So you have to wait for the supay, then apply the second, thin, layer. But before that, you definitely squander all the burrs (just do not make great efforts).

Conclusion

Actually, here is the whole article on how to mount the ceiling of plasterboard. Save this page or print it - let it be your crib on how to install plasterboard on the ceiling.

Successes to you repair! In addition, watch the video selection of GLC designs.

To implement the most courageous ceiling projects, designers use drywall. With the installation of plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decor elements. In this case, the design is characterized by special strength and reliability.

The simplest installation of the suspended ceiling is the installation of a ceiling with one or two levels. The technique of creating a plasterboard ceiling of two levels will be considered a little later. But you can familiarize yourself with some subtleties of the installation of a single-level ceiling of plasterboard can be in the material "The ceiling of plasterboard with your own hands in the kitchen: installation features".

Marking of fasteners on the ceiling

According to the technology of mounting the suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing you need to do is mark up:

• So, the walls are applied to the walls perfectly smooth horizontal line, which will be a feature of the ceiling level.. To do this, use a long construction level or water level (Waterpas). The most acceptable level length is one and a half or two meters, while it should have four strips in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. If these requirements are followed, the accuracy of markup is guaranteed.
• Upon completion of the delineation of the line, its end must come together with its start, while the slightest shift is not allowed. When applying marking in the corner of the room with the help of a building level, you should follow the rules for working with hydrorem. For this, when the labels are applied to the adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners.

Technology Scheme for Mounting Plasterboard Ceiling

• After completing the creation of the horizontal ceiling level, the next step will be the markup of the ceiling with places of fixtures of direct suspensions. As a result, a mesh with dimensions of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, in the edges of the room, the sizes of the cell do not correspond to a given 600 mm, in which case their dimensions should be reduced and make symmetrical relative to the opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fastening of the hitchpocarter

Installation of the guide profile

The next stage of installation of the plasterboard ceiling provides for the trim of the entire perimeter of the room by the guide profiles (PN). The size of such a profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm. Of course, in this process there is its own characteristics:

Installation of P-shaped suspensions

Installation of the suspensions of the P-shaped shape, is carried out according to a predetermined markup on the draft ceiling. In this case, the interval must be within 70-100 cm., And the distance from the wall to the suspension on the opposite walls should be the same.

To secure suspensions, you should not use a dowel-nail for vertical fasteners. It is recommended to use a dowel of plastic and screws. If the draft ceiling is made of concrete, the optimal solution will be metallic dowels intended for heavy structures. However, it should be attentive because frame dowels, also metal, but they will not fit completely for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, the P-shaped suspensions should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Elements of fastening of the frame of plasterboard design to the ceiling

At the end of the process of fastening the profiles of the P-shaped form, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are 5.6 x 2.7 cm., Sometimes there are dimensions of 6 x 2.7 cm.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing to be done when installing the ceiling profiles is to secure long profiles on the ceiling from the wall to the wall. Then set short transverse profiles between them. In this case, cross connections are performed using a special attachment.

PP are mounted from the wall and insert into the guide profiles. Then designate the horizontal level of the ceiling profiles (the level is used for this purpose), and then fasten it with the help of a bilateral connection to the P-shaped suspension. At the same time, for such a compound, metal-metal screws (screws) are used.

To make work easier, you can take advantage of the following tips:

The most rational solution will be the installation of the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. In this way, you can distract attention from small defects on the site of connecting plasterboard sheets, which will be attached to the direction of natural light from the window.

Mounting drywall on a frame

A solid leaf of drywall (GLC) is attached to the transversely long guide profiles.

Sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of GCL on the profile, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach sheets to the profile, screws are used, while the screw is slightly "blend" in a sheet of plasterboard, somewhere in two or three millimeters. The distance between the self-pressing should be approximately 250-300 mm., And from the angles of plasterboard - 30-40 mm.

In addition, the screws should begin to be attached not closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing the screws, you should be extremely careful and not allowing the chip edge of the sheet. However, if such a trouble still happened, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw the new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the spot.

When fastening sheet carcarter sheets to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

• When installing plasterboard sheets, it should be remembered that in the corners of the room there is a narrow profile, and this may complicate the installation process;
• For a beautiful aesthetic type of plasterboard ceiling, a simple rule should be adhered to: less faces - more beautiful view;
• In the process of screwing the screws, you should stick to the same depth of "drowning" in all points of attachment. Such accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting work, it will allow them as high quality;
• In order to avoid the emergence of unpleasant situations, such as the height difference in the places of the sheets of sheets, the best option will be the use of products from one manufacturer (for example, KNAUF).

Technology cutting plasterboard sheets and painting works

To carry out the marking of sheets of plasterboard, an aluminum rule is used, which should be carefully cleaned from all kinds of contaminants. If there is no such tool, you can use a smooth rail.

• The sheet is marked, the plasterboard will be cut down.
• Next, an incision is made in a depth of 2-4 mm by rule (or rail). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is smooth and not interrupted.
• After that, the leaf of the drywall is placed on the edge of the table and with the help of a careful, but confident movement breaks. With a proper cut, a drywall leaf will break smoothly.

Instructions for cutting plasterboard

• On the back of the sheet will remain cardboard, it can be cut off using a building knife.
• To align the edge of the cut, you can use the plans or emery paper No. 4 or No. 6.

For painting of a plasterboard ceiling (read with the rules of painting work, read: how to paint the ceiling in the kitchen: the choice of paint and work order) It is necessary to use a painting bandage and a painting mesh, which is used to sneak the plasterboard compounds with the wall and joints.

The process of marking the ceiling to place point lights should be performed before the last paint applied. Such an order of actions will prevent the appearance of spots and will help keep the visibility of labels for lighting points. Application of the last layer of paint is made towards the most strong flow of light.

Technology: For painting of the suspended ceiling of plasterboard, the optimal solution will be the use of roller, it will save the paint and will create a uniform coating.

The above rules for creating suspended ceilings from drywall will allow high-quality installation on its own. However, this can be achieved only if it is clearly followed by all instructions and recommendations. Otherwise, you risk getting at the exit of the curve and an unreliable ceiling that will need to redo.

19077 0 5

Independent installation of drywall on the ceiling - 7 stages of the manufacture of the ceiling coating

Among the existing options for arranging the chisto-ceiling coating, one of the most popular methods, the sewing of the main ceiling by plasterboard sheets is considered. At first glance, the installation of a ceiling of plasterboard may seem difficult to independently manufacturing. From our own observations, I can say that with a competent approach, two people can cope with such a task, not even having practical skills and experience with this material.

Application of plasterboard for trimming ceiling

Plasterboard sheet (GLC) is a rigid sheet finishing material, which is designed for the manufacture of interior partitions, as well as for the draft surface of the ceilings, walls, window and doorways, and other elements of building structures inside the building.

In other words, it is also called "gyro-" or "dry plaster". Each sheet of this material consists of two outer layers of thin, but dense cardboard, between which there is a homogeneous solid layer of frozen gypsum solution.

In order not to delve into technical details, I will talk about the main features of the application of sheet drywall for finishing ceilings:

1. Plasterboard sheets have a smooth homogeneous matte surfacewhich in itself is the ideal basis for applying finishing materials (facing tiles, interior paint, wallpaper, etc.);

1. Compared to other construction materials (brick, monolithic concrete, aerated concrete), the price of plasterboard is significantly lower, besides, it has a much smaller proportion, therefore it is considered the most appropriate material for interior construction;
2. The gypsum mineral base is not independently lit, and does not support combustion, and all components for the production of plasterboard are made from non-toxic environmentally friendly raw materials, so it is safe to use it for the interior decoration of residential and bedrooms;
3. Due to composite sheet design, plasterboard has sufficient rigidity, and at the same time some flexibility and elasticity. These qualities allow you to use it, both to align rectilinear surfaces with a large area, and for firing complex parts of the interior with curvilinear configuration (decorative erkers, cornices, counter open-in the ceiling backlight, etc.);

1. Plasterboard sheets can be felt at a considerable distance from capital ceiling overlap. This makes it possible to perform a hidden gasket of electrical cables, ventilation pipes and other communications in free space for decorative suspended ceiling;
2. The ceiling sheets are necessarily performed on the carrier metal frame, which in itself, has some thickness. After mounting the plasterboard, the finishing ceiling in the room becomes lower at least by 50 mm, so this method is not suitable for decoration of rooms with an initially low level of the main ceiling (less than 2500 mm).
3. The mineral gypsum base and the outer layer of the cardboard strongly absorb moisture, and when weeping, they lose their strength, and they are destroyed over time. For this reason, I do not advise you to use this material for finishing raw rooms with constant high humidity (bath, bathroom or shower room).

The cardboard for the outer layers of the GLC is made of natural cellulose raw materials, therefore, under conditions of low temperature, high humidity, and insufficient inflow of fresh air, an ideal nutrient environment is created on its surface for the development and growth of mold fungus. To allow the appearance of mold, it is necessary to ensure optimal temperature conditions of operation and high-quality ventilation of the interporal space.

Step 1: calculation of the number of materials

As for the purchase of materials, there should be no problems with this at all, since all components for mounting drywall are currently you can purchase in any construction hypermarket.

1. Plasterboard sheets can have a thickness of 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm. 9.5 mm thick sheets have a smaller weight, so they are more preferable to use the ceiling finishes The right number of sheets is determined, based on the total ceiling area, plus 5% of the stock;
2. The galvanized metal profile of the brand "UD" by cross section 28x27 mm is designed to fasten the plasterboard sheets to the wall around the perimeter of the room. Accordingly, its total length should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room plus 5%;

1. Metallic galvanized brand profile "CD" cross section of 60x27 mm is often called ceiling, because it is designed to fasten sheet carcartes to the ceiling. Its total length should be calculated based on the fact that the guide ceiling profiles should be evenly located all over the entire ceiling area, with a pitch of 600 mm between them. On trimming this profile, you also need to add 5% of length;
2. In cases where there is some space between the capital and suspended ceiling, special attachments that can be two types are used to mount the ceiling profile:

• Direct P-shaped remote suspension Used in the event that the distance between the main and suspended ceiling is no more than 120 mm;
• Spring wires allow you to lower the suspended ceiling relative to the capital to the distance from 120 to 1000 mm.

1. The number of remote suspensions should be selected with such a calculation so that they can be installed throughout the ceiling area, in increasing no more than 1000 mm between them in the longitudinal and transverse direction;
2. For splicing of guide profiles, metal connectors will be needed along the length, and for the connection of two perpendicular profiles in the same plane - special crabs. The number of crabs is calculated by the formula: the total ceiling profile length / 0.6;

1. The mounting of the metallic frame to the concrete ceiling should be performed using galvanized screws and plastic dowels 6x60 mm. To attach sheets to a metal frame, use phosphated screws 3.5x25 mm;
2. For putting the joints between sheets and sealing the point of attachment, it will take a reinforcing champyanka glass pack and the finish acrylic putty for drywall.

For the manufacture of suspended ceilings in the kitchen or in the bathroom, I advise you to use moisture-resistant sheets of plasterboard. They have a nomenclature designation of G Clac, and differ in green outdoor layer of cardboard and blue of the letter marking.

Stage 2: Selecting Tools

For the installation of drywall, there is no special equipment on the ceiling, so when finishing works, you can do the usual set of household instruments:

1. To fix the profiles of the carrier frame to the main concrete ceiling, you will need an electric hammer with a set of drills, or, in extreme cases, a powerful shock drill;
2. During the work, you will need to twist a large number of self-tapping screws, so I recommend using a battery screwdriver for these purposes;

1. To cut the metal profiles to the desired size, you can use a grinder with a cutting disk for metal, manual hacksaw for metal, or scissors for metal;
2. Plasterboard sheets in a straight line are conveniently cutting with a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades;
3. If you need to make a curly cutout on a radius or line curve, for this you can use an electric jigsaw with a wood saw or metal;

1. Hand tools need a square, roulette, construction level, hydraulic or laser level, plumbing cord, medium hammer and plans for mounting the cropped edge of sheets;
2. For the final finish, two metal spatulas with a blade width 40-60 mm and 80-120 mm, as well as a set of emery skins with a grain size from P80 to P150.

Installation work on trimming ceiling by plasterboard can be performed from two stepladers, however it is more convenient to use an old unnecessary table for this. If there is no such table in the household, you can build two small peeps of such a height from the boards or bars, so that the semoluned hand of the standing person freely deliver to the ceiling.

Stage 3: Preparatory Work and Marking

Before performing installation work, you need to fully free the room, make all the furniture from the room, and dismantle the old ceiling coating (foam tile, stretch ceilings, etc.). If the wallpapers are pooled on the main ceiling, which are normal, and do not fall off, then their disassembly should be carried out.

Before starting work, you need to perform gasket and installation of engineering communications (electrical cables, ventilation pipes, cassette air conditioning, etc.), which must be hidden behind the suspended ceiling.

1. In order to mount the plasterboard sheets on the ceiling strictly horizontally, on the perimeter of the walls you need to apply the corresponding markup;

1. Capital ceiling overlap in residential buildings, far from always happening, therefore when applying marking on the walls, I do not advise to repel from the main ceiling;
2. To apply horizontal lines, the most convenient to use the laser level. It must be fixed at a given height, and along the line of the laser beam, apply horizontal marking on each wall;
3. Laser level is quite expensive, so if you do not have it, then for these purposes you can use a hydraulic level that works on the principle of reporting vessels;
4. In an arbitrary location on any wall, it is necessary to put a horizontal label of 10 mm above the level on which the finishing ceiling must be mounted;

1. After that, one person should attach one of the transparent hydraulic tubes to this place, and combine the fluid level in the tube with the stagnant on the wall;
2. The second person must, rearrange the stepladder, put horizontal labels opposite the fluid level in the second tube, on each wall in two places, in each of the angles of the room;
3. After that, all labels on the walls need to be combined with a straight horizontal line, which will serve as the lower boundary of the installation of the wall guide profile for drywall. The long horizontal line is more convenient to draw not for a ruler, but to beat with chalk with the help of a stretched construction cord;
4. To make more convenient to mount the ceiling profile, in addition to the wall markup, I also recommend applying the ceiling markup control lines;

1. To do this, on the ceiling, parallel to the long walls you need to hold an axial line, which should divide the room into two equal parts;
2. From the axial line, in each side to the side long walls to postpone an equal number of segments of 600 mm long and connect them with parallel lines. The last segments that will be closer to the wall may turn out any arbitrary length, but not more than 600 mm;
3. The same needs to be done between short walls: draw a short axial line, from it in each way to put labels with a range of 600 mm, and connect them with straight lines. Ultimately, it should be a ceiling in a cell, with a length of each square on the axes of 600 mm.

The hydraulic level is easy to make with your own hands from two transparent tubes with a length of 200-300 mm, with a diameter of 8-12 mm, and a segment of a flexible rubber or silicone hose of the same diameter, 5-8 meters long. In approximately the middle of each tube you need to apply two labels, and connect them with each other with a rubber hose, after which, from the tag to the tag, fill the entire system with ordinary water.

Stage 4: Assembly and installation of the carrier frame

After applying the markup, the guide profile "UD" can be consolidated to the walls around the perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to use screws with plastic dowels 6x60 mm, setting them at a distance of 400-600 mm between them.

In the event that the ceiling in the room is quite smooth, and you do not plan a hidden gasket of communications, the ceiling guide profile can be secured directly to the ceiling. Otherwise, it is necessary to use remote suspensions of one of two types. As an example, I will tell you how to properly mount the profile to the ceiling with perforated P-shaped remote suspensions.

1. First of all, with the help of the same self-tapping and plastic dowels, all remote P-shaped suspensions from the perforated metal strip must be consolidated to the ceiling;

1. For this, we use the markup in the form of squares on the ceiling. Along the entire length of each straight line of markup, such a number of suspensions should be fixed so that the distance between them is about 1000 mm;
2. After that, it is necessary to install longitudinal ceiling profiles. For this, one whip of the "CD" profile must be inserted into P-shaped suspensions, and temporarily fix with a long nail or studs;
3. Further, its end will be inside the wall profile, and fix with two screws. After that, the ceiling profile must be set strictly horizontally in terms of level, and also consolidate to the legs of each suspension using screws;

1. If the lengths of one whip turns out to be not enough, it can be increasing in the same profile. After it is fixed to all remote suspensions, the free end of it must be started in the wall profile of the opposite wall, and also fasten two screws;
2. Thus, it is necessary to consolidate all longitudinal ceiling profiles. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the axial lines of each profile amounted to exactly 600 mm, with a permissible error of no more than 10 mm in each direction.

1. After that, you need to install transverse jumpers. They are mounted in the same way, at a distance of 600 mm from each other, and are also attached to the wall profile and to P-shaped suspensions;
2. The only difference is that all internal jumpers are attached to longitudinal profiles with crabs. Such installation technology allows you to connect two profiles with each other at a right angle in one horizontal plane.

In order to prevent the carrier frame of the carrier in the central part of the ceiling, I recommend setting temporary control diagonals. To do this, it is necessary in the wall guiding profile, in each corner of the room to complete one screws, and then tie them to them, and tighten a thin drop-made thread on the diagonals of the room.

Stage 5: Sheet of sheets of plasterboard

When the carrier frame will be fully assembled and mounted on the ceiling, I recommend again checking its geometric sizes, and make sure that it is located strictly horizontally. After that, you can start directly fastening the plasterboard to the ceiling.

Each 0.5 mm thick thickness sheet may have a size of 1200x2500 mm or 1200x3000 mm, and the weight of the sheets is 22 or 27 kg, respectively. For this reason, such work must be performed at least together.

1. Starting the installation of sheets follows from the longitudinal axial lineAt the same time, each sheet should be located in parallel with a long wall;

1. Before installing plasterboard to the ceiling, the first sheet should be applied to the bearing frame in such a way that it does not reach the short wall to the short side, and its long edge passed exactly in the middle of the central axial profile;
2. Having established the first sheet in the right position, one person must hold it from below, and press it with his hands to a metal frame, and the second person, meanwhile, should be fixed to the profile by self-draws;
3. Self-tapping screws should be twisted evenly throughout the perimeter of the sheet, with a step of 150-200 mm, while fixing is necessary not only in longitudinal guides, but also into transverse jumpers. Wrap a self-tapping screw needed with such an effort so that the hat is interpreted into a plasterboard plate by about 1 mm;

1. The second sheet should also be pressed to the carrying frame, and resubpes it with a short side to the short edge of the first sheet. Thus, first of all, it is necessary to fix one series of sheets on one side of the axial line;
2. It is desirable that the joints of the sheets in the first and in the second row were not located opposite each other. In most cases, the last sheet of the first row will have to be trimmed along the length. So that the sheets are located in a checker order, the second row is better to start both on the opposite side of the room;

1. Similarly, it is necessary to fix all the other sheets of plasterboard, while it is important to ensure that they do not reach the walls of 2 mm throughout the perimeter, and their joints have accounted for exactly the middle of the longitudinal ceiling profile;
2. Before attaching the extreme sheets along the long walls, they will need to be cut into width. During trimming and fastening the extreme sheets, it should be borne in mind that the cut end should be located closer to the wall, and the factory edge with a notch on the edge is close to the adjacent sheet.

In order for the assistant to do not have to hold each sheet with his hands, I advise you to make one or two wooden backups for drywall. Each backup is a T-shaped construction of 50x50 mm wooden bars, made in the form of a mop. The upper horizontal plank such a "mop" should have a length of 600-800 mm, and the lower support foot should be restarted into the floor, and 10-12 mm in height do not reach the carrier frame.

Stage 6: Black Finishing Works

After all the plasterboard sheets are mounted, even at a professional master, small gaps and slots will remain between them, and the entire surface of the ceiling will be littered with black hats from the self-tapping screws. In order to give it a complete appearance, and prepare for painting or sticking wallpaper, on the final stage of the installation of the suspended ceiling, a rough finish is performed.

I advise you to use ready-made finishing putty on an acrylic basis.

1. Puttooth ceiling is usually performed in two stages. First you need to sharpen all the visible fasteners, hats from the screws, longitudinal and transverse joints between sheets, as well as other major irregularities and surface defects;

1. On the long edges of drywall sheets, the chamfer is usually removed, or a shallow excavation is made. In order for the seams in the time of the seams, in the process of spitting in this garbage, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing glass mesh, which the people are called "Serpent";
2. When the first layer of putty finally hardens, it should be pulled out by the emery sandpaper of medium grain (P80-P100).
3. For sticking tight wallpapers on a thick vinyl or glass-tape basis, such a surface preparation will be enough;

1. If you plan to paint the interior acrylic paint ceiling, I recommend to apply another thin layer of finishing putty, and after it drying, pollute the entire surface of the shallow sandpaper with the graininess of P100-P150;
2. At the end of everything, you need a damp cloth or a soft wide brush to remove fine dust from putty, and apply one or two layers of penetrating primer for internal work throughout the ceiling area.

For grinding the surface after spittle, I advise you to use an electric vibration-link machine with replaceable perforated emery discs on velcro. If there is no such typewriter, then for uniform removal of the excess layer of putty, you can use a manual plastic holder with spring clamps for a rolled emery skirt.

Stage 7: Installation of the ceiling lamp

In any closed room, even with natural lighting, the installation of ceiling lights or chandeliers is required. As is known, the ceiling sheets of drywall have a small thickness (9.5 mm), so they are not able to withstand a significant weight load. Modern household chandeliers may have a rather large scatter in their size and by weight. If a light small ceiling lamp can be fixed directly to the plasterboard or metal profile, then for a massive heavy chandelier, this method will not fit.

For those who do not know how to secure the chandelier to the suspended ceiling of plasterboard, I can suggest two simple, but very reliable ways:

1. The first of them is that when installing a metal carrier frame, you need to provide in advance to install a mortgage platform from thick plywood. This method can be used to attach any ceiling lamps weighing up to 20 kg;

• In those places where the project provides for the installation of lamps or chandeliers, it is necessary to attach a round or square plywood platform with a size of 250x250 mm, and a thickness of at least 20 mm;
• After finishing the ceiling, the lamp can be screwed to the plywood through drywall, conventional vehicle scores with a size of 4.5x50 mm;
• If the chandelier has to hang on the hook, then in the board you need to wrap the mounting hook with a large screw cutting, which is designed to twist into plastic dowels.

1. The second method involves fastening the chandelier directly into the thickness of the concrete slab of the capital ceiling, so it allows you to mount even very heavy and bulky lamps.

• In the event that the interpostral space has a height of more than 200 mm, I recommend to prepare the mounting point for the chandelier in advance, before installing plasterboard sheets;
• If the space between the main and suspended ceiling is less than 200 mm, the hook for fastening the chandelier can be installed after completion of the finishing finish;
• To do this, first cut the hole with a diameter of 50 mm in the drywall, and then with a punch with a bromide 10 mm, the center is drilled in a concrete slab to a depth of at least 80 mm;
• On a long-rhy-bolt or a threaded pin with a hook with a diameter of 8 mm, you need to turn the extensive anchor MSA10 from hand.
• Then insert, and slightly score it into the hole in the concrete plate, and wrap the rhy-bolt into the anchor on the thread, until the characteristic metallic screap appears;
• This method is also good in that it allows you to hide the long wires behind the plasterboard ceiling.

To secure a lightweight lamp or chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling, you can use a folding spring anchor. To do this, in the gypok, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm, squeeze the spring-loaded naps of anchor, and push it into the hole. After under the action of the springs, the paws will be burned beyond the drywall sheet, you need to tighten the presser nut.

Conclusion

If on the technical project, the interior design involves the manufacture of a multi-level ceiling, all work must be performed in the same sequence. The difference lies in the fact that at first it is necessary to mount a solid drywall coating throughout the ceiling area, and then begin the installation and firing of additional decorative levels and eaves for opening backlight.

All illustrative information on the installation of drywall on the ceilings, you can look at the applied video in this article, and if you have questions, I suggest to discuss them in the form for comments.