Good afternoon! I like your site, it has so much useful information. But still I would like to ask. Our house is adobe, it was inherited, it has uneven walls and we don’t know how to level them, we don’t want to work with clay, it’s not practical, and it’s already the 21st century in the yard, I know that adobe is a natural material and it’s only friends with natural materials.
So my husband and I decided to sheathe the walls with wood inside. But we were told that it is not advisable to make holes in the adobe, even small ones. Please tell us what should we do? If it is possible to sheathe with wood, then what should be followed and what technology is there? Thanks.
Elena, Ukraine, Dnepropetrovsk.
Hello Elena from Dnepropetrovsk!
In general, adobe houses, by and large, do not imply any further finishing, both outside and inside.
Everything is done right at the construction stage. That is, they planned to build a house from adobe, which is usually dictated by the large availability of cheap material near the construction site (primarily clay) and are built immediately with plaster walls from the same material composition as the main walls of the house.
Alignment of the surface of the walls is carried out immediately at the construction stage. And in the future, only cosmetic repairs and whitewashing are carried out, both outside and inside the house. This is a traditional method developed over the centuries.
And the look of such walls is considered a certain charm, a kind of retro style. It happens, however, that for greater importance, from the inside, natural boulders are added on the surface of a couple of walls, which are immured with the same plaster and metal fittings for better retention.
All kinds of lining and wall decoration of adobe houses outside with bricks, blocks and similar materials are considered not quite the right solution for a number of reasons. As well as from the inside with the same drywall, not to mention hardboard, plywood and even lining.
If you absolutely want to sheathe uneven walls from the inside with wood, then most likely this should be done with clapboard on a wooden frame. / A metal profile as a frame is not suitable - then the lining cannot be nailed with nails. /
Currently, there is a controversy regarding the presence of a dew point at the boundary of contact between dissimilar materials (in this case, adobe walls and wood of the frame itself or the lining surface).
That is, to put it simply, due to the temperature difference outside the house and inside it, humidity can occur in a certain place of the thickness of the walls with all the ensuing consequences. Good, when this border is in the thickness of the adobe walls. But if it falls on the inner surface of these walls or on the surface of wooden elements, then moisture begins to settle at certain moments in the form of condensate. What is not good.
In most cases, in adobe houses, the mentioned boundary is located inside the walls and nothing inside the house is visually noticeable, but, unfortunately, this is not always the case.
In short, if your house has never, under any temperature cataclysms, previously had moisture on the inner walls, then everything is fine. If this happened, then there may be problems with the installation of wooden sheathing.
I hope I didn’t completely intimidate you with excursions into thermodynamics?
And lining lining is made as follows. They take a wooden cranial bar with a section of about 20 * 40 millimeters. Apply it with the flat side (not on the edge!) To the surface of the adobe walls and set them on a level. If necessary, in those places of the walls where there are large dips, put pieces of plywood of the required thickness to eliminate these dips-deflections. So that a set of such several different-thickness pieces of plywood does not crumble, they are fastened together with galvanized carnations.
In this case, the lining can be installed in two ways.
The first is vertical. Then the cranial bar is attached to the walls horizontally and in about four belts. The first and fourth are directly at the floor and ceiling. The other two are at a symmetrical distance along the height of the walls.
The second option is horizontal. Then the cranial bar is installed horizontally with a step (the size between the bars) of about 0.6 meters.
/Around the openings of windows and doors, the beam is mounted around their entire perimeter, and the slopes are then closed with decorative strips or a wooden corner. Other options are possible./
Wooden surfaces are treated with antiseptic compounds. Bruskov - from all sides. Lining - only from the inside, the one that will be facing the surface of the adobe walls. This is due to the fact that in the future you will most likely cover the surface of the walls from the lining with some kind of dye (Pinotex, Aquatex, Texturol, Pokrovite, or something else from one and a half to two dozen similar compositions). But not all of these dyes are compatible with antiseptic formulations.
In case of incompatibility, after some time, peeling or peeling of subsequent overlays occurs. And if the surface of the lining facing the inside of the premises is not covered with anything, then there will be no rejections.
The fastening of the cranial bars is usually carried out using black wood screws. Bars are attached to the walls with a distance between fasteners of about half a meter - about a meter. The length of self-tapping screws used in adobe walls ranges from 50 to 100 millimeters.
Self-tapping screws can be complete with plastic dowels. It all depends on the density of the wall material and the presence of wooden elements in them. The main idea is to keep your cranial framing from falling off. And this is achieved by several methods and only experimentally and for each house strictly individually. There are no completely identical adobe houses, because they were built and are being built more and more "by eye", the builders, that is, the owners, put completely different amounts of clay, fires, etc. into the adobe, and therefore the characteristics of the material of the walls are different.
So, even in walls made only of adobe, there are still wooden elements that are on top (strapping or edging timber), the floor is also wooden, and the cranial timber is attached to it. And there is also wood around the windows and doors. That is, in all places where there is a tree, one should try to attach a cranial bar. At the same time, self-tapping screws here can be used of a shorter length (than 75 - 100 millimeters, which are attached to adobe walls).
In addition, in the corners of the house, the bars located along the mating walls are attached to each other (at 90 degrees), which creates additional structural strength.
Your concerns about the fact that there will be small holes in the adobe. Well, firstly, not through holes, but recesses for self-tapping screws by several centimeters. With a thickness of adobe walls, which can be several tens of centimeters, this is not fatal. Yes, and consider the area of \u200b\u200bsuch holes yourself compared to the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. These are ten-thousandths of a percent of everything. Theoretically, these are, of course, "cold bridges", but in practice, as mathematicians say, their value is negligible and can be neglected.
For fastening themselves to a wooden frame-crate, galvanized lining (finish) nails 40 millimeters long are used.
There is no unequivocal opinion on the use of various thermal films between adobe walls and wood. Some specialists claim that they are mandatory, others - just the opposite.
I like the second one more. It is in the case of adobe walls. In other variations, this may not be the case.
The most correct decision for you would consider this - to make one room according to the recommended one. If everything is ok, that is, "okay", then next year do everything exactly the same in all other rooms with uneven walls. Because as soon as time shows the correctness of our decisions.
Everything. Good luck!
Other questions on the topic of adobe houses.
Building a house is an expensive undertaking. Building materials alone for the construction of walls will cost a serious amount, but you still need to attract craftsmen for their masonry and decoration. Yes, with all the expenses for high-quality construction and finishing materials, you still need to make sure of their environmental performance - you must admit, this criterion is important today. Meanwhile, a full-fledged house can be built not only with your own hands, but also from structural material, created, again, independently and right on the construction site - no chemical components are required for the production of adobe bricks. Let's find out what adobe is, how to build a building from it and, finally, how comfortable it will be to live in such a house.
History of adobe houses
To shelter himself and his family from the weather, a man needed a house. Several millennia ago, people developed various construction technologies, primarily dependent on the availability of the simplest building materials - stone and wood. For many peoples who inhabited the Earth around the perimeter of the equator before our era, wood and stone were in great short supply, they had to look for other building materials. About 6,000 years ago, a solution to the problem was found - bricks were created from wet clay mixed with straw, dried in the sun, and buildings were erected from this simple structural material.
For the first time, bricks molded and fired in the sun appeared in Ancient Egypt - for their production, Egyptian builders extracted clay from the bottom of the Nile River. Subsequently, the technology for creating clay bricks was borrowed from the Egyptians by the peoples of Ancient Persia, from where it spread throughout Asia, and then, together with the Moorish armies, penetrated into Spain. By the way, it was the Arab builders who gave the clay brick the name at-tob, which was changed centuries later by the Spaniards to adobe - its Turkic name "saman" is better known in Russia.
Until 2003, the oldest architectural complex in Asia, made entirely of adobe, was the Persian "Bam fortress" (Arg-e Bam), created around the 6th-4th centuries BC. e. the Achaemenid dynasty. Unfortunately, at the end of 2003, the ancient Citadel was completely destroyed by a 6.3 magnitude earthquake, the epicenter of which fell almost on the territory of the old city. It should be noted that the Iranian city of Bam suffered from the earthquake not only in the historical part, but also in the modern one - about 80% of the buildings collapsed.
The construction of buildings from mud (i.e. clay) developed independently among the peoples of the American continent. The Anasazi (Pueblo) Indians erected multi-story clay and straw complexes in the southern part of North America, however, they did not make bricks - the prepared building material in the wet state was laid around the perimeter of the future building, as it hardened, a new tier was formed on top, and so on .
In the state of New Mexico (USA), buildings built from adobe about 1000 years ago still exist and are used for living.
Composition of adobe
Cob blocks are made exclusively from natural materials without the use of any chemicals. These are mixed clay, sand, straw and water, which are the main substances. And additional ingredients that are added if necessary include: tyrsa, wood chips or wood chips, sometimes fresh cow dung is used.
The walls of the house made of adobe are famous for their energy saving and comparative cheapness. Most owners of houses made of adobe have appreciated the advantages of this natural building material: in summer the house keeps cool, heating up from the outside, and in winter it keeps warm, being exposed to sub-zero temperatures. Such an advantage is unlikely to be found in the properties of cinder blocks or bricks.
However, the disadvantage of an adobe house, as already mentioned, lies precisely in its sensitivity to water and moisture, which is why it is so important to find the right solution for reliable and at the same time environmentally friendly cladding of its walls.
There are several options for finishing adobe houses from the outside:
Siding and composite sheathing;
- overlaying the house with stone;
- tiling;
- plaster coating with subsequent painting with facade paint;
- fur coat finish.
Fans of modern trends in the exterior of adobe houses come to the decision to use siding, often forgetting about the harmfulness of certain types of plastic. Typically, siding attracts with its practicality in operation and hermetic protection against moisture and dampness of coatings. Although such a sheathing of an adobe house is made using the technology of ventilated facades, plastic heated in the sun can still emit harmful substances that eat into the walls. Most do not consider this moment to be a fact, however, in any case, if we compare living natural material and synthetic material, the advantage in safety for human health will still be given to environmentally friendly natural building materials.
Overlaying an adobe house with stone is considered an environmentally acceptable way to protect such a house from moisture, but it is not affordable for everyone. Often, a stone means the use of such materials: wild stone, artificial stone, shell rock, sandstone. The stone also has the natural ability to "breathe", while allowing the cob blocks to "live and breathe" as well.
Tiled ceramic cladding, although more laborious to work with and less durable, but also, like stone, belongs to environmentally friendly materials. But there is one "but" - this is tile adhesive for outdoor use, which just can be quite toxic. Therefore, in order to achieve greater harmlessness, cement mortars, or anchor or wire fixtures and fasteners are used in the decoration of external adobe walls.
Plastering adobe walls with subsequent painting is a very environmentally friendly way to clad your home. Plastering must be done using a special plaster mesh, which must first be fixed on fragile walls. Many insulate walls using various insulation materials, such as special foam. Plaster is applied on top and after it dries, the walls are painted with facade paint. Environmental friendliness and durability of such a coating are guaranteed!
Finishing an adobe house outside “under a fur coat” is also classified as a safe cladding method. In addition, this method is considered quite economical and affordable in terms of the cost of building materials for a “fur coat”. The house is also well protected from moisture, and at the same time allows the adobe material to "breathe".
Thus, we see that four of the proposed five methods are the safest in order to veneer and protect the walls of an adobe house from moisture and other undesirable influences.
Some building materials from which walls are erected immediately imply the need for exterior decoration of the house: the picture is very unsightly. Others may lose their appeal over time. And the third case is extensive fissure formation, which is “treated”, but the results remain visible. In all these cases, the question arises: "How to sheathe the house from the outside." Moreover, most often it is required to “sheathe” - without the use of a solution or other similar means that require a lot of money and time. I want to do everything quickly and, very preferably, inexpensively, and even, if possible, with my own hands. Oddly enough, but the choice of materials and technologies is, and considerable.
Basic Rules
When choosing materials for cladding a house from the street, be sure to remember that in order to maintain normal humidity in the premises, the vapor permeability of materials must decrease from inside the room to the outside. That is, the exterior finish should conduct steam better than the material of the walls. Then the increased humidity, which is typical for our homes, will be removed through the walls in a natural way (explanations in the photo).
If this principle is violated, moisture will accumulate at the boundary of materials with different vapor permeability. It condenses, creating conditions for decay, the development of fungi and mold. In winter, it freezes, destroying the material of the wall and / or decoration. Sooner or later, such a system will have to be dismantled and redone.
The trouble is that only wood meets this requirement. Most of the other materials for the exterior of the house has a low vapor permeability. The problem is solved in two ways:
Today, the second option is becoming more and more popular. Very effective heat-insulating materials have appeared that allow to reduce heating costs by several times. But they have very low vapor permeability (expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam). When using them, only the second humidity control scheme is possible. When choosing how to sheathe a house, consider these points.
wood paneling
Wood in construction and decoration has been used for centuries, and it looks like it will be relevant for a long time to come. All thanks to the excellent appearance and the ability to regulate the humidity in the room. This is perhaps the only material that will easily remove excess moisture, no matter what material the walls are built from.
Wooden sheathing can have a completely non-standard look: different colors and sizes, different directions. It's simple and the effect is amazing
The most popular wall cladding materials are block house and timber imitation. There is also a lining for exterior decoration - it has a greater thickness, compared to the one intended for the rest, it is no different.
The block house imitates the surface of a rounded log - the front part has a rounded shape. Imitation of a bar is very similar to a planed bar. Both types of cladding are attached to the crate, then sanded and coated with protective impregnations, optionally varnished or painted.
What lumber looks like for exterior cladding of a house
If you can’t decide how to sheathe a house of foam blocks on the outside, consider wood cladding. In this case, a crate (metal or wooden) is nailed to the walls. If necessary, a heater is laid between the planks - basalt wool (styrofoam or polystyrene foam cannot be used), and then the wooden sheathing is nailed.
This building is sheathed with imitation timber. Under the skin there can be a brick, a log house, a frame or any of the building blocks
If you need the cheapest option, for most regions of Russia this is an ordinary planed board. Its thickness is from 40 mm, it is stuffed in the same way as a lining or a block house on a crate, the lower end of the upper board goes 10-20 mm onto the one located under it. It turns out the principle of the bump. So you can cheaply veneer a country house or even a residential one. With proper processing, such a lining has a very good appearance.
What is the cheapest way to sheathe a house outside? For central Russia - a planed wooden board
The disadvantages of such a finish are the same as for any wood: it can be damaged by pests, rot, without proper care it quickly loses its decorative effect, becomes dark and ugly. If you want to sheathe a house and not think about it for years, this is not your choice. Wood paneling requires maintenance, and, most often, annual maintenance.
Siding
In some regions, boards and other lumber are not the most affordable materials. In this case, it is cheaper. This is the option when, after finishing once, you can forget about it for a long time.
If you are thinking about how to decorate a house from a bar from the outside, perhaps your option is siding.
Since the sheathing is nailed to the crate, the facade is ventilated. If you need to inexpensively finish wooden walls (from timber, logs, shields), siding is one of the options. It can also be used for building from any other material: foam block, aerated concrete, slag filling, etc. This cover is universal.
Vinyl
Siding is made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is therefore also called vinyl siding. It is a strip of material with a width of 205 and 255 mm, a thickness of 1.1 mm and 1.2 mm. On the longitudinal edges there is a lock on one side, on the other - perforation for fasteners (self-tapping screws are more often used).
The siding is also attached to the crate. It is recommended to use a special metal one, but impregnated wooden blocks are quite suitable. Only regular starting and side lanes will be needed. The only caveat: the self-tapping screws need to be “short” a little, leaving a backlash in order to compensate for temperature changes in materials. With this installation, the siding will not crack from the stresses that have arisen.
The advantages of this material for exterior cladding of the house: low prices, easy installation.
The disadvantage of vinyl siding: it quickly fades in the sun, so it is advisable to use soft colors. It has a fairly wide operating temperature range: from +50°C to -35°C, but even in slight frosts it becomes brittle and easily damaged.
Another point: the houses sheathed with siding, which have a broken configuration, look good. If the building is rectangular, without architectural excesses, it does not have the most attractive appearance (in confirmation of the photo below).
If the building is just long, without reliefs and ledges, wall cladding with sadding will not embellish it very much.
Metal
Metal siding is a strip of thin aluminum or galvanized steel, which is coated with a protective and decorative coating. It has the same mounting system as vinyl.
Sheathing a house with metal siding is simple: you can do it yourself even without much building experience
The coating may be of polymers. Differs in reliability, resistance to burning out, other climatic factors. Its disadvantage is the limited choice of colors. The second coating option is powder coating. The color gamut is much wider, the paint lasts for years without signs of flaking.
If you are looking for something to clad the outside of the house so that the finish is reliable and bright, one of the metal siding options may suit you. It can be bent, broken very difficult, installation is not very difficult: you need good metal scissors, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver or a screwdriver. All installation features are the same as for vinyl, with the only difference being that metal can also be mounted at low temperatures.
It is not easy to harmoniously decorate a building sheathed with metal siding
From the point of view of durability, this is a good option, but from the point of view of aesthetics, it is difficult to work with it: it looks too “productive”. The building no longer looks like a residential building, but a warehouse or some kind of workshop.
basement
This is one of the varieties of vinyl siding, but it has a completely different configuration, appearance and greater panel thickness. It was developed specifically for decorating and protecting the plinths of buildings, but it was so well liked that it was also used for facade cladding. External design - for brickwork of various types and colors, with or without drawings, wild stone. Sometimes the imitation is so successful that you can understand that in front of you is not a brick cladding, but a vinyl cladding, you can only touch the wall.
Mounted, like other types, on the crate, there is perforation and locks. The difference is that the basement siding panel does not look like a long rectangle, but a certain section of the wall with curly edges. These curly edges are joined. Accordingly, the crate must be adjusted to the size of the fragment. When installing, first the edge of the panel is brought into the lock of the already installed one, matches are achieved, and then fixed. The main thing - during installation, do not tighten the screws too much, leaving the siding to move with temperature changes.
The lathing can be made of treated wooden bars (protective impregnation) or from drywall profiles (galvanized). How to mount basement siding on the base, see the video. Similarly, it is attached to the wall. Area difference.
Fiber cement boards and siding
Relatively recently, a new cladding appeared on our market: fiber cement boards and siding from the same material. They consist of wood fibre, quartz, mica, cement, may contain chlorine and asbestos (some materials used only for exterior decoration). This mixture is molded into sheets, then dehydrated in several stages, and fired using some technologies. Then a protective and decorative coating is applied to the surface:
The coating can be smooth - glossy and matte, can imitate brickwork, wood and other finishing materials. Mounted on mounting rails, fastened to the wall with clamps. This material may suit you if you do not know how to sheathe a frame house from the outside: it creates a solid surface, the panel joints are sealed and precipitation will not get inside.
This house is also lined with fiber cement boards.
How to fix fiber cement boards, see the video.
Fiber cement siding is made using the same technology, only it is molded into long strips. They are basically standard: 3600*190*12mm. This material is cut with an electric jigsaw, installed on a wooden crate with an overlap (according to the cone principle) and nailed to it or screwed with self-tapping screws.
Thermal panels
Thermal panels are a material that performs two functions at once - cladding and external insulation of houses. A layer of decorative coating is applied to the thermal insulation layer at the factory. It is similar to marble or natural stone, does not burn, has low water absorption characteristics.
This finishing material is made on the basis of foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. Depending on the type of insulation, the installation method is selected: polystyrene foam and polystyrene are glued to the appropriate composition. The joints are closed with a special aluminum bar or rubbed with paste.
Based on mineral wool, they are mounted only on a special system of profiles, the joints are also sealed.
A very attractive idea is to immediately insulate the house and revet it. Excellent appearance, and the characteristics of such a cladding are impressive. It’s just a pity that there is little operating experience and there are no reviews yet: it appeared quite recently.
There are also clinker thermal panels. Clinker tiles are glued to the insulation. The material is not cheap, but the characteristics are impressive, as is the variety of finishes.
Another option for thermal panels - with clinker tiles
The choice of materials with which you can sheathe the house at any time - in winter or summer - is considerable. There are expensive options, there are cheaper ones. In any case, in addition to cost, be sure to consider vapor permeability. Then you do not have to deal with mold and dampness.
In order to protect from rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.
A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay a heater.
I give a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the skin and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. It is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.
From above, we cover it with a fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it with plastic washers (we cut it from 4 × 4 cm flasks). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.
We nail the plaster shingles in the center. Caring for the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and close it for the winter.
Attention!
Styrofoam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil cannot be used for insulation - these are airtight coatings.
Wall decoration of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings
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