Probably every driver has faced the problem of punctured tires at least once. The easiest way to eliminate such a breakdown is to contact a tire workshop. But, if such a service is not close, or you have to use the service often enough, which translates into a substantial amount, you can patch up the punctured tire with your own hands using a special device for this.
Car, motorcycle and bicycle cameras can help you repair a homemade vulcanizer. Those who are interested in such a tool are advised to study the article, which describes in detail the options for its manufacture.
How does a vulcanizer work?
During installation work, a vulcanizer is an indispensable device. With its help, the integrity of the tire is restored in such a way that it can be used for a long time.
Vulcanizer design
The basis of the device is a plate of 200x400x20 mm lying on two wide horizontal channels. On its sides, struts from channel No. 65 are vertically installed and fastened by welding. A "rocker" is attached to these uprights with bolts. A clamping screw fixed with an end clamp passes through its center. There is a heating element at the bottom of the vulcanizer.
The principle of operation of the equipment
Using the vulcanizer is quite simple, since there is nothing complicated in its principle of operation.As a result, an unbreakable strong connection is created, which allows full use of the tire.
The optimum temperature for strengthening raw rubber is 147 degrees. At temperatures above 150 degrees, rubber begins to collapse, and 160 degrees is a critical temperature for rubber, at which it begins to char.
However, it is impossible to keep the chamber in the vulcanizer for a long time even at the optimum 147 degrees. It usually takes 8-10 minutes for the patch to hold tightly and efficiently.
Camera repair rules
Before you apply a patch to the camera, it must be carefully prepared:
To remove dirt and roughness from the surface of the chambers, its damaged areas are cleaned with sandpaper or a pebble.Vulcanizer manufacturing options
To eliminate tire punctures at home, you can make several types of vulcanizers at minimal cost. It is not difficult to make them with your own hands, the main thing is to choose a suitable design.
Iron Vulcanizer
This is one of the most common homemade tire repair equipment options. Manufacturing instruction:
If it is supposed to repair the elements of some complex structures, then the plates will need to be shaped accordingly.
So that with the help of such a vulcanizer, products are repaired as follows:
- the area to be treated is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees and degreased with light gasoline;
- a patch is cut out of raw rubber and applied to the place to be repaired;
- all elements are inserted into the mold and tightened tightly with screws;
- on a heated iron, the mold is placed so that its lower half touches the heating surface of the iron;
- this way the elements heat up within 10-15 minutes.
When repairing a product, it is necessary to ensure that the rubber does not touch the heated iron.
Hotplate and clamp equipment
To make such a vulcanizer with your own hands, you should pick up a household electric stove with an open spiral.
By welding, the heater body is made of 5 mm thick iron according to the dimensions of the ceramic base of the tile.The electrical circuit of such equipment is similar to that of an iron. The temperature of its surface is controlled by a thermometer, and the regulator is adjusted to turn off the heating element when it reaches a temperature of 140-150 degrees. In this case, the signal light should go out. The duration of heating the device will depend on the power of the installed coil.
Do-it-yourself vulcanizer to eliminate troubles on the way
Using a piston from a car or motorcycle engine, you can make equipment that does not require electricity for its operation. For him, only 40-50 grams of gasoline is enough.
To make a vulcanizer, you need to prepare:
The base for the equipment is best made of wood, as it does not interfere with the good heating of the rubber.
The design and used materials of such a vulcanizer can be changed, only the principle of its operation is important.
Before repairing the camera using the completed equipment, first of all, it is necessary to clean and wipe the damage with clean gasoline. After that, a patch is cut out of the raw rubber, installed in the right place and covered with a piece of newspaper. A piston is placed on top, which is pressed by a rack with the help of twisting nuts.
Gasoline is poured into the piston, into which a small piece of rags is dropped. After that, the gasoline needs to be ignited and wait until it burns out all over. Once the piston has cooled completely, it can be removed. The damaged camera has been repaired and looks like it was patched with an ordinary vulcanizer.
Hand-made vulcanizers are suitable for repairing motorcycle and car tires, heating pads, air mattresses and other rubber products. The most important thing is to follow the rules for repairing cameras and instructions for using homemade equipment.
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design, principle of operation and do-it-yourself manufacturing options
Probably every driver has faced the problem of punctured tires at least once. The easiest way to eliminate such a breakdown is to contact a tire workshop. But, if such a service is not close, or you have to use the service often enough, which translates into a substantial amount, you can patch up the punctured tire with your own hands using a special device for this.
Car, motorcycle and bicycle cameras can help you repair a homemade vulcanizer. Those who are interested in such a tool are advised to study the article in which in detail the options for its manufacture are described.
How does a vulcanizer work?
During installation work, a vulcanizer is an indispensable device. With its help, the integrity of the tire is restored in such a way that it can be used for a long time.
Vulcanizer design
The basis of the device is a plate of 200x400x20 mm lying on two wide horizontal channels. On its sides, struts from channel No. 65 are vertically installed and fastened by welding. A "rocker" is attached to these uprights with bolts. A clamping screw fixed with an end clamp passes through its center. There is a heating element at the bottom of the vulcanizer.
The principle of operation of the equipment
Using a vulcanizer is easy enough, since in its principle of operation there is nothing complicated.
- The damaged tire surface is prepared using a special heating element.
- A rubber tab is applied to the puncture site.
- The adhesion of the patch and tires is ensured by exposure to high temperatures.
As a result, an unbreakable strong connection is created, which allows full use of the tire.
The optimum temperature for strengthening raw rubber is 147 degrees. At temperatures above 150 degrees, rubber begins to collapse, and 160 degrees is the critical temperature for rubber, at which it begins to char.
However, it is impossible to keep the chamber in the vulcanizer for a long time even at the optimum 147 degrees. It usually takes 8-10 minutes for the patch to hold tightly and efficiently.
Camera repair rules
Before you apply a patch to the camera, it must be carefully prepared:
- To remove dirt and roughness from the surface of the chambers, its damaged areas are cleaned with sandpaper or a pebble.
- It is necessary to grind the cuts so that during the repair their opposite edges do not touch. This is due to the fact that during the movement the edges will rub against each other, as a result of which the applied patch will quickly come off.
- The patch must be cut in such a size that it can close the cut or puncture with an overlap of at least 2 cm. The patch can be of any shape.
Vulcanizer manufacturing options
To eliminate tire punctures at home, you can make several types of vulcanizers at minimal cost. It's easy to make them with your own hands., the main thing is to choose a suitable design.
Iron Vulcanizer
This is one of the most common homemade tire repair equipment options.
Manufacturing instruction:
- A mold is made from steel plates 40x60 mm and 6x8 mm thick.
- To prevent the edges of the plates from cutting into the rubber, it is recommended to grind them off.
- Drill holes with M4 thread in the corners of the plates.
- Pull the halves together using the screws.
If it is supposed to repair the elements of some complex structures, then the plates will need to be shaped accordingly.
To use such a vulcanizer products are repaired as follows:
- the area to be treated is cut off at an angle of 45 degrees and degreased with light gasoline;
- a patch is cut out of raw rubber and applied to the place to be repaired;
- all elements are inserted into the mold and tightened tightly with screws;
- on a heated iron, the mold is placed so that its lower half touches the heating surface of the iron;
- this way the elements heat up within 10-15 minutes.
When repairing a product, it is necessary to ensure that the rubber does not touch the heated iron.
Hotplate and clamp equipment
To make such a vulcanizer with your own hands, you should pick up a household electric stove with an open spiral.
- By welding, the heater body is made of 5 mm thick iron according to the dimensions of the ceramic base of the tile.
- A clamp and four legs from a bar are welded to the walls of the body.
- A ceramic element with a spiral is mounted in the base of the device. In order for the spiral not to come into contact with metal, it is recommended to put an asbestos sheet gasket on it.
- The bottom of the electric heater is closed with an iron cover, which is fastened with two screws.
- A bimetallic thermostat is installed near the clamp on top of the base. Assembled with a signal lamp and its resistance, it can be taken from an ordinary iron.
The electrical circuit of such equipment is similar to that of an iron. Its surface temperature is controlled by a thermometer, and the regulator is adjusted to turn off the heating element when it reaches a temperature of 140-150 degrees. In this case, the signal light should go out. The duration of heating the device will depend on the power of the installed coil.
Do-it-yourself vulcanizer to eliminate troubles on the way
Using a piston from a car or motorcycle engine, you can make equipment that does not require electricity for its operation. For him, only 40-50 grams of gasoline is enough.
To make a vulcanizer, you need to prepare:
- the base of the device;
- bolt hole;
- hole for self-tapping screws;
- nuts;
- self-tapping screws;
- piston;
- beam;
- bolts from a metal rod with a diameter of 12 mm.
The base for the equipment is best made of wood, as it does not interfere with the good heating of the rubber.
- Insert the bolts into the holes and, so that they do not turn, secure with self-tapping screws.
- Bolts made of a metal rod must have an M12 cut thread at one end, and a washer at the other.
- From the side of the thread, a beam is put on the bolts, which, with nuts, will press the piston to the base.
The design and used materials of such a vulcanizer can be changed, only the principle of its operation is important.
Before repairing the camera using the completed equipment, first of all, it is necessary to clean and wipe the damage with clean gasoline. After that a patch is cut from raw rubber, set in place and covered with a piece of newspaper. A piston is placed on top, which is pressed by a rack with the help of twisting nuts.
Gasoline is poured into the piston, into which a small piece of rags is dropped. After that, gasoline needs to be ignited. and wait until it burns out all over. Once the piston has cooled completely, it can be removed.
The damaged camera has been repaired and looks like it was patched with an ordinary vulcanizer.
Hand-made vulcanizers are suitable for repairing motorcycle and car tires, heating pads, air mattresses and other rubber products. The most important thing is follow the rules for repairing cameras and instructions for using homemade equipment.
stanok.guru
DIY vulcanizer - 120 photos of installing and designing homemade devices
Almost every car owner has had a puncture of tires. Many immediately went to the tire shop, but if you are out of town, away from the service center, and this happens to you regularly, which is not cheap, then it is worth fixing the breakdown on your own. To do this, you must have special materials.
A self-made vulcanizer can help repair camera damage in cars, bicycles and motorcycles. Our article will help you build this device with your own hands, and a photo of the vulcanizer will help you consider it in more detail.
What is the principle of operation of this device? A vulcanizer is simply irreplaceable when restoring the integrity of tires, besides, after that, their service life is significantly extended.
Brief content of the article:
Device design
The main element is the base, which includes a slab 200x400x20 mm, located on top of horizontally laid channels of sufficient width.
On the sides of it, in a vertical position, there are racks (channel No. 65), which are securely fixed using conventional welding.
An arc is attached to the lateral verticals, through the center of which a clamping screw passes, secured with a clamp from the end. The lower part of the vulcanizer is equipped with a heating element.
Operating principle
The operation of the vulcanizer is very simple, as the device is uncomplicated. Using a heating device, a preliminary preparation of the damaged part is carried out. Then a rubber patch is applied over the puncture site.
Due to the high temperature, two elements adhere: the camera and the pad. The result is a strong and durable grip, which gives the tire a new and longer life.
It is possible to strengthen the wet rubber chamber at a temperature of 147 degrees, at a higher temperature (from 150 degrees) the destruction of the rubber material occurs, and at 160 degrees. - the rubber will simply turn into coals.
But don't keep the rubber in the vulcanizer for too long, about 8 or 10 minutes is enough.
Features of tire repair
In order for the tire repair to be of high quality, you must first carry out preparatory work:
- using sandpaper or stone, it is necessary to clean the damaged surface, this will remove dirt and irregularities;
- grind the cuts carefully, not allowing the opposite edges to touch, in order to avoid rubbing them against each other, which may cause the applied patch to come off;
- the size of the patch should be optimal and completely cover the damaged area with a slight overlap of about 2 cm. The configuration of the patch may vary.
How to make a vulcanizer with your own hands
It is quite possible to make a vulcanizer at home, and even in several variations, besides, the costs will be minimal. First, it is worth choosing the appropriate design option for the future device.
Making a device out of an ordinary iron is perhaps the most well-known option for making it on your own.
To do this, you must:
- prepare a mold from two steel plates measuring 40x60 mm or 6x8 mm;
- the edges of the plates must be ground off in order to avoid them cutting into the rubber surface of the tires;
- using the M4 thread, drill holes in the corners of the plates;
- tighten two plates at once with screws using screws;
- for repairing unusual tire structures, the plates are given the desired configuration.
The repair process itself will look like this:
- in the place of damage, a cut is made at an inclination of 45 degrees. and is degreased with gasoline;
- a rubber patch is harvested and covers the restoration site;
- all parts are placed in a molding press and rigidly compressed with screws;
- the mold is installed on the heated surface of the iron, while in contact with it with the lower part;
- within 10-15 minutes. the elements are heated;
- Be sure to make sure that the rubber does not come into contact with the iron. Self-made vulcanizers can actually be used in practice, repairing damaged tires and more. At the same time, it is important to observe safety precautions, instructions for repair and use of the device.
Diy vulcanizer photo
Tools from the section:
zdesinstrument.ru
The cycle tube vulcanization process is carried out according to the following principle:
Instructions for vulcanizing a camera at home consists of the following steps:
This can be done as follows:
You can use the machine in the following order:
The manufacturing procedure is as follows:
Piston mechanism
Manufacturing procedure:
obrabotkametalla.info
how to vulcanize a camera with raw rubber using a homemade vulcanizer
In order to repair a flat tire of a bicycle or car, you need a vulcanizer for the cameras. The device can be purchased in a store or made by hand. Raw rubber is used as patch material. It consists of rubber sheets covered with plastic wrap on both sides. Due to its plasticity, under pressure and the action of high temperatures, it is adhered to the chamber.
Features of Electric Vulcanizer
An electric vulcanizer is a household appliance with which cameras are being repaired. It consists of 2 round elements. The camera is placed between them and clamped with a clamp. The device is connected to a voltage of 220 V.
There are electric car vulcanizers. They are also called road. Their principle of operation is the same. The only difference is that the voltage is supplied to the terminals of 12 V. For this, a machine battery is used.
Vulcanizing the chamber with raw rubber
The cycle tube vulcanization process is carried out according to the following principle:
- The place in the chamber where the hole is located is being prepared.
- Wet rubber is applied to this place.
- The heated press is squeezing.
The heating temperature of raw rubber is 147 degrees. If you raise it to 150, it will collapse, and at 160, the charring process will begin. The exposure time is 8-10 minutes.
Instructions for vulcanizing a camera at home consists of the following steps:
When removed, the joint looks like a single whole.
Making an iron fixture
A do-it-yourself tire repair vulcanizer can be made from an iron.
This can be done as follows:
You can use the machine in the following order:
- The damaged area of the camera is being processed.
- A patch is cut out of the raw rubber, soaked in gasoline and applied to the hole.
- The chamber with the patch applied to it is inserted into the mold and clamped with bolts.
- An iron is located at the bottom, and a mold is installed on it. It is important that they touch at the bottom.
- The iron heats up for 10-15 minutes.
During vulcanization, care must be taken that the rubber parts do not touch the heated iron.
Homemade device from an electric stove
A homemade vulcanizer can be made from an electric stove. For this, an old device with an open spiral is selected.
The manufacturing procedure is as follows:
- The body of the heater is being manufactured. For this, a sheet of metal with a thickness of 5 mm is taken.
- By means of welding, the body is shaped to the size of the ceramic base of the tile.
- The legs from the bar are welded from below, and a clamp is welded on the side.
- An asbestos sheet is laid, and on top of a ceramic tile base with a spiral.
- The heater is closed by a metal cover, which is attracted by bolts.
- The thermostat is removed from the iron and attached near the clamp.
The vulcanization process is no different from working with an iron. In this case, the heater automatically turns off the coil when the temperature reaches 147 degrees.
Piston mechanism
A piston from a car or motorcycle is used as a structural element. This vulcanizer does not need electricity. This requires a supply of 50 g of gasoline.
Manufacturing procedure:
A camera with a patch is placed on a wooden plank. A cylinder filled with gasoline is placed on top. And the whole structure is bolted together. Gasoline is ignited. After it burns out, time is given to cool down. And then he sorted it out.
A vulcanizer is a very important device for a motorist. It is especially necessary on the road in case of an unforeseen situation. At home, there is no point in making an expensive purchase. Since such a device can be made from devices that have served their life.
chebo.pro
Vulkanizator. How to independently make a simple and reliable do-it-yourself vulcanizer at home from scrap materials. Manufacturing technologies for homemade vulcanizers with visual drawings and photos. How to vulcanize at home
A bimetallic thermostat from an ordinary iron, complete with a signal lamp and its resistance, is attached to the upper surface of the case, at the clamp. The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of the iron. By controlling the surface temperature of the plate made by the vulcanizer with a mercury or other thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150 ° C. In this case, the signal light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil.
And the last option - a marching one, which does not require electricity, can be very useful in case of troubles along the way. This is a homemade vulcanizer made with a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, which requires only 40-50 grams of gasoline to use.
The vulcanizer is easy to manufacture and includes only a few details:
1 - the base of the vulcanizer
2 - bolts
3 - beam
4 - piston
5 - self-tapping screws
6 - nuts
7 - holes for screws
8 - bolt holes
Base 1 is made of wood, since wood does not interfere with the good heating of the rubber. Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes of the base and fixed to the base with self-tapping screws 5, from turning in the hole in the base. ... The bolts are made of a metal rod with a diameter of 12mm. A washer is welded at one end of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut at the other. A beam is put on both bolts from the thread side, which, with the help of nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base.
A damaged chamber is placed between the base and the piston. Materials and construction are subject to change - only the principle of operation is important.
To repair the camera, you need to find the damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. Then install a wet rubber patch on the damaged area and cover with a piece of newspaper, and put the piston on top. We press the piston using a rack with nuts. Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rags into the gasoline. We ignite the gasoline and after the gasoline has all burned out, we give time to the piston to cool completely. Only then do we remove the piston.
The damaged camera has been repaired. The patch looks like after a conventional vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require repeated repair.
remontavto-moto-velo.blogspot.com
My iron vulcanizer
My version of a do-it-yourself vulcanizer from an iron and improvised means
I assembled an ATV with UAZ tires (My ATV is made from a Chinese scooter) and it turned out that "trouble" came - first you need to glue the camera, and the auto-vulcanizer from the 12-volt on-board network "ordered to live a long time" and no longer wanted to fulfill its functions. And although there are now many good adhesives to quickly and reliably repair a puncture, but vulcanizing the chamber still remains the most reliable option for repairing chamber punctures. I looked - how could I quickly replace a faulty vulcanizer and an old working iron lying idle caught my eye. I looked on the Web for information on this issue and it turned out that - YES ... this is how the cameras really vulcanize, but I did not like all the options (and there were not so many of them) and began to independently adjust the iron so that you could quickly and reliably position the camera on its sole ... In the end, I ended up with an option that I really liked ...
Obvious pluses- compactness and the ability to adjust the temperature of the sole of a homemade vulcanizer.
It looks like in the assembled version
This is how the camera is positioned.
The final stage of camera repair - the result
Disassembled homemade vulcanizer
For such a design, I only needed an iron with a solid sole and a temperature controller, as well as electric welding and several pieces of iron of different profiles. The creation process went sequentially - first, a clamp and a platform for the iron handle were made. Then I had to make a tightening bolt for a more stable position of the iron in the structure. In the end, I welded two supports to securely position the homemade vulcanizer on the surface.
To be continued….
Homemade vulcanizer - application and manufacture If you have punctured a tire, the easiest option is to contact a tire service. But there are a large number of fans to do everything themselves, and tire fitting is not always nearby. From time to time, the costs associated with contacting the tire service (road, time, the procedure itself) result in a large amount, especially if you have to use this service quite often.
In non-specialized, for various reasons, for those who want to eliminate breakdowns at home, I offer a couple of options for making a homemade vulcanizer at minimal cost. By means of a home-made vulcanizer, for example, made from an iron, it is possible to quickly and reliably repair cars, moto and bicycle cameras, air mattresses, heating pads, various beads, inflatable toys, etc. One of the most common options for a home-made vulcanizer is the option using a dilapidated iron. The circumstance is that new, more functional irons, and dilapidated (Soviet) irons, in working order, (in case you don't have any left) will be very easy to find from a neighbor. Here is a free main detail of the vulcanizer.
Below are a couple of designs. Which one to choose is up to you, the main idea is monotonous, the difference is how to provide a clamp connection at the place of vulcanization of a rubber product.
The crude rubber is soaked (for some time) in gasoline, the size is slightly less than the size of the patch. The puncture site is processed with a sandpaper (size - with a margin), wiped with gasoline. A patch is cut out of auto tube rubber, the edges are rounded.
The patch is also processed with sandpaper, and later with gasoline. Then: raw rubber on a hole, a patch on it, we clamp everything in a domestic vulcanizer. It is possible to put a piece of newspaper so that the rubber does not stick to the vulcanizer plate. Wait until it boils when it gets on the vulcanizer (15-20 minutes).
Turn off the vulcanizer, wait a little, remove the vulcanizer, allow the rubber to cool. They also control the temperature by means of sugar: if its grains in contact with the hot vulcanizer begin to melt and turn yellow, then it’s time to turn off the vulcanizer. If you have a thermostat working, set it to 150 degrees. (approximately for ironing silk). The thermostat can be adjusted by a skillful method. If the smell of burnt rubber appears, this is an indicator of a high temperature, if the patch is not well merged (vulcanized), it is an indicator of insufficient temperature or a short vulcanization time.
At the end of one or two times, everything becomes clear and vulcanization can be put on stream 🙂 For more original work, you will need a simple mold, which is made of two metal plates 6-8 mm thick and 40X60 mm in size. Four holes are drilled in the corners and an M4 thread is cut to tighten the halves with screws. The inner edges of the plates are easy to grind so that the edges do not cut into the rubber.
With a complex configuration of the parts being repaired, the plates are given an appropriate shape or grooves and additional holes are made.
Before starting work, the area to be treated is whisperingly cleaned (the edges of the beads are cut off at an angle of 45 °) and degreased with light gasoline (B-70). After that, a patch of the required size made of raw rubber is applied to the place to be repaired, put into a mold and firmly tightened with screws. Putting it on a heated iron so that the entire plane of the lower half of the mold touches the heating surface, give an exposure for 10-15 minutes.
Throughout the work, they make sure that the rubber does not touch the warm parts of the iron. The grooves for gluing the beads are drilled when the mold halves are tightened, and the diameter of the drill must be equal to the diameter of the bead. It is possible to drill a couple of holes in one mold, for different diameters of beads, but the distance between them should be no less than the thickness of the workpiece.
Otherwise, the heating of the bonding site will be uneven and the level of vulcanization quality will deteriorate. Cleaning the gluing points or trimming the ends of the bead is done before work, and the wet rubber is applied in a narrow layer - so the connection will be stronger. Vulcanizer circuit with integrated clamp
Iron vulcanizer: 1 - clamp bracket, 2 - boss, 3 - clamping screw, 4 - clamping heel, 5 - electric iron. Cut a bracket out of 5 mm steel (see figure), weld a cylindrical boss to it on top, and a 50 mm wide strip of metal on the inside. The cross-section of the resulting clamp should have a T-shape.
Drill a hole along the axis of the boss and cut a thread in it for the clamping screw. Then fasten the vulcanizer to the bottom of the Clamp and - the iron body is practically ready. The easiest option for curing with an iron is, by and large, without modifications.
Raw rubber is applied to the cleaned place of the gap, later paper and everything is pressed on top with an iron.
Some weight is put on the iron. Vulcanization lasts 10-15 minutes, the temperature of the iron is 140-150 ° C (thermostat in the "silk" position). Since the correct value of the temperature of the iron is unknown, care must be taken so that the rubber does not burn out. The smell of burnt rubber will indicate excessive heat. Another version of a home-made vulcanizer made of a clamp and an electric stove According to the dimensions (height and diameter) of a ceramic base from a household electric stove with an open spiral, a welded heater body is made of iron 5 mm thick.
Four legs from a bar and a clamp are welded to its walls. Insert a ceramic element with a spiral into the body, on which, to prevent its contact with metal, you need to put a gasket made of sheet asbestos. From below, the electric heater is closed with a metal cover by means of two bolts.
The main details of the homemade vulcanizer: 1 - body; 2 - bottom cover; 3 - asbestos gasket; 4 - ceramic base with nichrome spiral; 5 - electric cord.
On the upper surface of the case, at the clamp, a bimetallic thermostat from an ordinary iron is attached, complete with its signal resistance and a lamp. The electrical circuit of the vulcanizer is similar to that of an iron.
By monitoring the surface temperature of the plate made by the vulcanizer with a mercury or second thermometer, the regulator is adjusted so that it turns off the heating element at a temperature of about 140-150 ° C. At the same time, the warning light goes out, which indicates that the vulcanizer is turned off. The heating time depends on the power of the heating coil. And the last option is a marching one, which does not require electricity, perhaps very useful in case of problems along the way. This is a homemade vulcanizer made with a piston from a motorcycle or car engine, which requires only 40-50 grams of gasoline to use.
The vulcanizer is simple to manufacture, it includes only a couple of details: 1 - the base of the vulcanizer 2 - bolts 3 - beam 4 - piston 5 - self-tapping screws 6 - nuts 7 - holes for self-tapping screws 8 - holes for bolts The base 1 is made of wood, since wood does not interfere with good warming up the rubber. Bolts 2 are inserted into the holes of the base and fixed to the base by means of self-tapping screws 5, from turning in the hole in the base. ... The bolts are made of an iron rod with a diameter of 12mm. A washer is welded from one finish of the rod, and an M12 thread is cut from the other. A beam is attached to both bolts from the thread side, which, by means of nuts, presses the vulcanizer piston to the base. A damaged chamber is placed between the piston and the base.
design and materials can be changed - only the principle of operation is responsible.
To repair the camera, you need to find the damage, clean it, and wipe it with clean gasoline. After that, install a wet rubber patch on the damaged place and cover with a piece of newspaper, and put the piston on top. We press the piston by means of a rack with nuts.
Pour gasoline into the piston and release a small piece of rags into the gasoline. We ignite the gasoline and at the end of that, at the time when the whole gasoline has burned out, we give time to the piston to completely cool down. Only then do we remove the piston.
The damaged camera has been repaired. The patch looks like it was after a simple vulcanizer - reliable and durable, does not require re-repair.
If you are interested in making a homemade winch. Repair yourself and as they say "not a nail ..."
There are several ways to repair a puncture or cut in a bicycle tube, one of which is hot or cold vulcanization of tires. This method can be confidently called reliable and durable, the wheel, fixed with raw rubber, will serve as new and will not deflate at the most unexpected moment. You can easily carry out such repairs yourself with your own hands, both at home and in nature on a hike, if you have some necessary parts. The hot method of vulcanization differs from cold only in how the patch applied to the wheel is fixed - with or without heat.
What is vulcanization? This is a chemical process due to which, with the expenditure of heat, the strength properties of rubber are improved, it becomes elastic and hard. You can put a patch on the puncture using a piece of an old camera or a ready-made patch from a repair kit, and to fix them you need raw rubber with your own hands, which is sold in rolls with a protective film. It is a very plastic material, it sticks to any surface, easily sticks together into a lump, etc. raw rubber instructions for use are indicated on the packaging.
- There are two types of vulcanization - cold and hot, let's consider both of them in more detail.
Cold vulcanization application
The material for such repairs appeared back in 1939 in the United States, almost immediately began to be successfully used and is popular with cyclists and motorists around the world to this day. With it, you can easily and problem-free repair any camera, the cold method is very easy to use at home. For the convenience of consumers, some manufacturers offer ready-made repair kits immediately (cold raw rubber, instructions for use are indicated on the packaging), which includes several patches of various sizes in the form of a plaster, sandpaper (sandpaper), which is used to clean the puncture or scratch on the rubber as well as a special quick-drying adhesive for cold vulcanization. It is he who reacts with the layer of raw rubber on the patch - it is applied in a bright color around the black. This triggers a vulcanization process so that the rubber of the chamber can be easily glued without heating (i.e. cold). This method is best for field repairs when there are no more tools at hand. You will not find a single cyclist who would not be helped out by such a kit at least once in his life. It does not take up much space in a bag or backpack, and its importance can hardly be overestimated, especially if you are alone on a trip without friends far from the city. The entire process of repairing a tire using cold vulcanization with a tube patch will take a cyclist no more than ten minutes and the wheel will be as good as new.
DIY hot vulcanization technology
This technology has been used for a little longer than cold technology. At a time when there were not so many tire changers around, auto and bicycle enthusiasts repaired their vehicles in the garage using exactly the same method for which an electric or gasoline vulcanizer is used, which can be easily assembled with your own hands. the technology here is as follows: the master burns gasoline, which heats the rubber with a piston. As soon as the temperature rises to 90 degrees, the raw rubber for vulcanization begins to harden; if the temperature is raised to 147 degrees, the process goes much faster and better. But it is better not to raise above 150, because the material begins to deteriorate and loses its properties. After 160 degrees, wet rubber begins to char. The ideal warm-up time for hot vulcanizing raw rubber is about 8-10 minutes. A piece of material is applied to the puncture site on the chamber and squeezed with a clamp so that bubbles do not form during the chemical reaction and air does not collect, forming dangerous voids.
The technology of using hot vulcanization of raw rubber at home will be 40% more effective for the tire than cold, therefore, if possible, it is better to use this method.
In field conditions, it is much more difficult to carry out such an operation for cameras, but it is still possible: if there is a piece of raw rubber, you can heat it over a fire. You can determine the temperature of the flame from a piece of sugar or a piece of paper: both begin to melt / char at a temperature of 145 degrees - just what is required for vulcanization. For the clamp, you can use a flat heavy stone, a piece of wood, or any other suitable object.
You will spend about 20 minutes for the entire operation. Do not forget that the place where the camera patch is glued must be cleaned with sandpaper or at least wiped with gasoline to remove dirt from the tire.
Cement for vulcanization and its application
Another alternative for repairing bicycle wheels on the road is a cement vulcanizer can. You can buy them, for example, at the car market - this material is very popular among motorists. The composition is sold in pressurized tin and aerosol cans from brands such as Abro, BL, Zefal, Top RAD and many others. By their composition, they are not hazardous to health and are not toxic, because they do not contain chloride and aromatic hydrocarbons, so they can be used freely both at home and outdoors without a protective mask. In order for the carburizing of the tire to occur, a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius is required. The composition is also used for hot vulcanization (150 degrees are required). For repairs, you need to remove a foreign object from the rubber of the chamber that provoked a puncture, fill the chamber with a cement vulcanizer through the nipple, pump it up slightly with a pump and ride a bicycle 2-3 kilometers to adjust the pressure in the wheels. This tire repair technology is simple and is also used everywhere. To fix the result, it is possible to use a patch of a plaster followed by a hot vulcanization method - exactly as described in the instructions above. The technology is suitable for any tire cuts. In this case, the patch for repairing the tubes is applied before filling the tire with cement.
What do you usually do if you have a punctured wheel? That's right, take out the patch and use glue to get rid of the extra hole in your camera. But what if the cut is 20mm long? Most likely, in this case, the chamber will have to be thrown away, because the patches will hardly help keep the air in such a chamber. Most likely the patch will simply come off the camera. Although we are sure that after such a cut you have seen bumps swollen right on the patch. In any case, such a camera is no longer worth using.
History
Tool
Algorithm
conclusions
But what if I told you that by using a special tool you can get rid of almost any puncture and cut? The name of this tool is Vulcanizer! Sounds impressive, yes. The process itself is named after Vulcan, the ancient Roman god of fire.
As Wikipedia teaches us:
Curing - the technological process of interaction of rubbers with a vulcanizing agent, in which the rubber molecules are crosslinked into a single spatial network. At the same time, the strength characteristics of the rubber, its hardness and elasticity increase, and the plastic properties decrease.
Discovered the vulcanization process Charles Goodyear(Charles Nelson Goodyear), who patented it in 1844. If his name sounds familiar to you, then you shouldn't be surprised. Firm Goodyear Tire and Rubber Company or simply Goodyear, a renowned manufacturer of tires and other rubber products, is named after him. This is a tribute to the inventor, although Charles died 48 years before the founding of the company.
If your grandfather or father had a car, then he will probably tell you about vulcanization, and if you're lucky, he will present a vulcanizer, because this is how they got rid of punctures in the chambers of cars, trucks, buses and other wheeled vehicles during the Soviet era.
To vulcanize your camera you will need:
- Vulcanizer (don't be surprised)
- "Raw" rubber
- Scissors
- Camera with extra hole
- Solvent
- Rags
A vulcanizer is now easy to buy on the secondary market or at a flea market, where you can also get special "raw" rubber. Check the garage or ask older relatives if they have such a device. The author of the article inherited the vulcanizer, along with the rubber for the patches, from his father. This thing, since 1974, has been perfectly patching cameras. Here's a quick guide on how to use it:
Prepare your camera
Degrease the camera where you plan to cure it, just like with the usual installation of the patch. In my case, there was a simple puncture with an acacia needle, but any cuts are amenable to the vulcanizer, if only the working surface of the apparatus itself was enough.
Prepare a patch
With scissors cut a suitable patch, from the edge of the patch to the hole must be at least 5mm. Remember to remove the protective film from the patch. Stick the patch to the camera at the puncture site by pressing lightly... The raw rubber adheres well, so you shouldn't have any problem with it.
Prepare the vulcanizer
Clean and degrease the working surface of the vulcanizer. You don't want garbage to be imprinted in your camera, do you?
Install the camera on the vulcanizer
Position the camera so that wet rubber is on the working surface of the vulcanizer. Be careful not to bend rubber on the camera, otherwise traces will remain after heating. Press down on the camera with the "shoe" vulcanizer.
Turn on the vulcanizer
Usually vulcanizers work from a 220V network, although there are models of our Chinese friends powered by a 12V car battery. If there are no indicators on the vulcanizer, then after a couple of minutes it will not be difficult to determine its operation, the working surface heats up to 140-160 ° C. Carefully! Do not burn yourself.
Turn off the vulcanizer
Usually, after 15-20 minutes, the vulcanizer turns off by itself. However, to avoid reheating, it is worth disconnecting it from the power source.
Wait for cooling
After 40-60 minutes, the work surface should cool down, the camera can be removed. Do not be afraid when you find that the camera is stuck to the vulcanizer. Carefully remove it from the device and enjoy its second life.
Of course, the vulcanizer is not as practical and portable as conventional patches. However, it handles much more complex punctures and cuts and will help revitalize more than one old camera, and given the cost of branded cameras, it will help save money.