Most builders point out that during the renovation of an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a ceiling from plaster or any other material.

The unevenness of various slabs, and the fact that the corners almost never correspond to each other, and many other details, interfere with the fast performance of work. It is quite difficult to hide all these shortcomings today. And rather not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will consider step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has a huge number of advantages, ranging from ease of installation to affordable prices.

What tools do you need?

If you are thinking about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the building materials necessary for quick installation of the ceiling, as well as prepare all the tools.

In order to install your own two-level plasterboard ceiling, you will need:

• Water-type level in order to carry out accurate marking of the place where the guide level will be installed.

• For fast drilling of various holes with any rotary hammer.
• Scissors with which you can cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Screw gun for fixing the gypsum board, as well as the profile.
• Roll

Installing the frame

The first thing to do is to choose a place for the future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. The marks should be applied after all the containers are at the same level.

How many centimeters to deviate from the building ceiling in centimeters is up to you, however, most builders suggest looking at a photo of a plasterboard ceiling in order to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After the completion of the first stage, that is, after the markings are carried out on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for the dowels. For this, a puncher is used.

After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure directly around the perimeter, it is necessary to make marks with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to make a fairly simple structure consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install the popular C-shaped profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to carry out the marking exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can proceed to fixing the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct hangers, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with sheets.

Ceiling decoration

To date, a huge number of various ways to decorate the ceiling are offered. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry, many different decorative materials can be found in stores that will decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Someone prefers plaster molding, and someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of trends in fashion, since they pass quickly, but you definitely have to live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you exceptional joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of coziness in the room.

After you decide what the ideal ceiling looks like for you after renovation, it is important to assess whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the building materials store and choose what will allow quickly turn your dreams of a perfect ceiling into reality.

There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating suspended ceilings using plasterboard.

You just need to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even for five years.

Note!

Photo of a plasterboard ceiling

Note!

The device of a plasterboard ceiling requires knowledge of the material from A to Z. Having studied the information about the installation, feel free to start installing the gypsum board with your own hands. It is possible to carry out a competent construction device without special skills, the main thing is to know how this is done. The lathing and stacking technology for single-level and multi-tiered systems is slightly different, but we will consider all possible options.

A suspended ceiling, like other cladding, requires the installation of a frame. Unlike wall decoration, metal profiles and straight hangers are used for the ceiling, which makes it possible to securely fix the system. We will tell you more about the installation below. The information is supplemented by a video in which the installation is clearly shown.

Which material should you choose?

The plasterboard structure on the ceiling looks presentable if installed correctly. But long before starting work, you should decide on the class of material that will be used as facing. If the information below does not seem enough, then you can study the video, which tells in detail about the types of drywall. Now let's say a few words about each of them:

1. GKL. These are standard sheets. Gypsum is sheathed with gray cardboard. For the ceilings of residential premises, a lightweight material with a thickness of 9.5 mm is used.
2. GVL. These are the so-called gypsum fiber sheets. The material is not covered with cardboard, which is different from the one described above. It is characterized by resistance to fire and hardness.
3. GVLV is a GVL, which is used in conditions of high humidity.

1. GKLO. Fire-resistant material modified by gypsum board. These sheet options are used in production.
2. GKLV. Waterproof class of drywall. Such material differs in appearance - green cardboard is used for facing.
3. GKLVO is an improved variation of GKLV, which, in addition to the advantages of GKLV material, is characterized by fire resistance.

In the conditions of home assembly of the ceiling, all types of material are used, except for GKLO and GKLVO. For the arrangement of bathrooms and the kitchen area, it is preferable to use gypsum plasterboard due to its resistance to moisture. The drywall installation scheme in these rooms is discussed in many videos.

What is needed for the crate

The frame installation technology involves the use of metal profiles. The best options are cold-formed galvanized products with a thickness of at least 0.55 mm. If you use thinner profiles, then the plasterboard structures on the ceiling will certainly deform. More often, parts of 3 or 4 m in length are used to equip the frame. If necessary, the lathing can be created with your own hands from elements of different sizes.

Note! To facilitate installation, the manufacturer provides holes for dowels on the profile.UD... If it happened that a product was purchased without them, it will have to be drilled in the right places.

So what elements, besides profiles, are used to equip the frame?

1. Straight or U-shaped suspension. The purpose of the device is to fasten steel profiles to the ceiling. If the length of the product is not enough, then you can resort to installing a spring suspension with a hook.
2. Crab. Represents a sibling connector. It is used for the device of cross-shaped fastening of steel elements in one horizontal plane at an angle of 90 degrees.
3. Corner connector. It is used to fix one piece.
4. Two-level retainer. Used to connect profiles on different levels. Do-it-yourself fastening with the help of such a part is carried out crosswise. In this case, the fixing of the parts occurs strictly one under the other.

These are the most common elements for the construction of lathing. Self-tapping screws and dowels are used for fastening parts. How to perform a crate for drywall according to a simplified scheme, see the video.

Ceiling marking and preparation of a rough base

After the correct calculation of the materials, they begin to prepare the floor. For reliable installation, remove the remnants of the old plaster from the ceiling. The base does not need to be primed or putty, but it is recommended to use antiseptics.

The next stage is marking. There are several rules and recommendations here that will affect the further course of installation. The first step is to determine the horizontal relative to which the installation is carried out. To do this, find the lowest corner in the room, retreat from the rough base 40-50 mm and put a mark in this place. The dance begins from this point.

Next, do it yourself on the walls with a paint cord. Alternatively, you can use a thread soaked in blue. Strictly observe the level while marking. A laser level will provide high accuracy, but in the absence of a tool, a water level will also do.

When working, consider the following nuances:

1. After passing along the perimeter of the room, the line should return to the starting point. Any offsets are not allowed.
2. When spacing on adjacent walls, place the level both on the plane itself and in the corners.
3. The markings from the walls are transferred to the ceiling, where the fixation points of straight, spring or U-shaped suspensions are marked.

At the end of the work, a mesh net should be in front of the eye. The size of the squares depends on the selected step, but more often it is 60 x 60. Closer to the walls, the cells have other dimensions - half. It is necessary to maintain symmetry from the opposite side. Carrying out the marking of the ceiling for installing the gypsum board, see the video at the end of the information block.

Installation of the suspension system

After installing the lathing, they begin to install the gypsum board. The installation of suspended ceilings is done according to a strict scheme. The drywall sheets themselves are fixed with their own hands perpendicular to the frame guide profiles. They are joined exactly in the middle of the profiles. This is done to make the system more reliable.

GKL ceiling frame
Ceiling structure diagram

Important! GKL fastening technology provides for the work of several installers. One person can damage a large sheet.

The installation scheme is not complicated. The following steps are taken:

1. The calculation of the amount of materials is carried out. For two-tier structures and complex ceilings, sheets are taken with a margin of about 20%, and for simple ones, 10% is enough.
2. GKL are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The screws are driven into the sheets so that their caps "sink" by about 2-3 mm.
3. The distance between the screws is 300 mm. The indent from the corners of the drywall is 10 times less.
4. The screws are screwed into the gypsum board with their own hands at a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of each sheet. In this case, we must not forget about the step between the screws.

Important! Screwing closer to the edge is fraught with chipping of the material. If there is an oversight, screw another screw 30-40 mm from the screw-in place of the previous one.

The installation diagram provides some nuances. First, a narrow profile is mounted in the corners of the premises. This makes fixing the drywall sheet problematic. Second, the screw-in depth of all screws should be approximately equal. This will allow you to carry out high-quality plastering of the plane with your own hands. The harness must be made from the same manufacturer. Otherwise, there may be problems with the docking of the gypsum board.

Painting works

Finishing is the final stage. A common way of facing drywall with your own hands is painting. But before that, preparatory work is being carried out. First, they purchase plaster. It is better to choose a plastic type building material. Next, apply it with a spatula to the following places:

• GKL docking places;
• screw-in points;
• on a serpyanka, which is used to reinforce the ceiling.

After that, the entire ceiling is already processed. When plastering multi-level ceilings, pay attention to transitions to other levels and corner areas. The final touch is the application of a leveling layer, after which it is worth walking with sandpaper. Sealing tape is used at the joints of the drywall with the walls.

Only after that a layer of primer is applied to the putty. It is recommended to repeat the priming procedure to consolidate the result. Next, it is worth letting the ceiling dry. After that, you can already start painting. Preference should be given to water-based or acrylic. Such compositions do not emit harmful substances into the room and are resistant to chemical reagents.

Note that the water emulsion does not interfere with the filtration of water vapor in wooden houses. Some experts consider acrylic paints to be the best. They have the advantages of being water-based, but in addition to this, the coating can be washed.

Summarizing

The scheme for the production of a suspended ceiling structure, which is described above, will create an even and neat ceiling covering. But the desired result can be achieved only if the technology is followed. In another situation, there is a risk of poor-quality installation. Installation details are covered in the video after the article.

Here is an instruction describing the installation of a plasterboard ceiling. It is quite detailed and understandable even for those who have not encountered GCR. All stages are considered - from the project to the rough finish. In addition to the standard techniques, you will learn some tricks that can save you time or money. At the beginning of the article, lists of the necessary tools and materials are given, as well as the conditions recommended for such work. Then a brief procedure is given. And from the next section, which is called "Plan and Calculations", begins directly a detailed description of each stage.

How does the installation of drywall on the ceiling begin?

With wall decoration. The fact is that the correct installation of drywall on the ceiling requires perfect. So before starting the ceiling work, the walls must be prepared for final finishing (plastered and putty). Or at least sheathed with plasterboard.

The future ceiling also needs to be prepared. Remove old trim if it gets in the way. Fix all communications on the floor - wires, air ducts, pipes.

The rules for installing a plasterboard ceiling are almost the same as for. There are difficulties. But in general, the idea is worth it, even if this is your first time with GCR. Of course, for the installation of plasterboard ceilings, it is desirable that you have at least a little knowledge of how to handle a power tool and have some physical strength.

What is required for the device of a plasterboard ceiling

You will have to work with long and relatively heavy materials. You will definitely need an assistant.

Of the tools you will need:

• water or laser level;
• pencil;
• marker;
• scissors for metal (grinder is suitable);
• puncher;
• hammer;
• screwdriver and several PH2 cross bits.

The list should be supplemented with tools and devices that will greatly facilitate your work:

Chalk cord
Special plasterboard bit with stop

The usual building level will also be useful. If you don't have a hydro or laser level and have nowhere to get them, you can get by with the usual ones.

Trick: how to do without a laser level

1. Secure the usual level with electrical tape to a long, perfectly straight bar;
2. place the plank on a known horizontal surface;
3. if the bubble is not exactly in the middle, slide a thin wedge under the corresponding end of the level. Try to line up the bubble perfectly;
4. turn the bar 180 °. Make sure that in this position the bubble is exactly in the middle.

So instead of a short and imprecise level, you got a long and precise one.

You will also need tools for finishing. The list will depend on the type of finish, but in any case, you need:

• spatulas - narrow and wide;
• a bucket (or other convenient container).

It is advisable to have a drill attachment () for mixing building mixtures.

An elementary bench will help a lot. Forget stepladders - they are inconvenient to work on. Chip from planks or roll a simple bench from chipboard. Calculate its height so that 10-15 cm remain above your head to the future surface of the ceiling.

List of materials:

• guide profile;
• ceiling profile;
• siblings ("crabs");
• longitudinal connectors (if longitudinal profiles longer than 3 meters are required);
• straight suspensions (for a height up to 20 cm);
• anchor suspensions + rods (for a height over 20 cm);
• dowel-nails with a diameter of 6 mm
• or self-tapping screws for wood for wooden walls and ceilings (black, with a rare thread);
• self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2 x 13 mm (silver, without a drill head);
• (black, with frequent thread pitch)
• and the drywall itself;
• and ;
• and serpyanka.

How many materials will you need? To have enough, but no surplus left, you need an accurate calculation. How to do it, read in the "Scheme and calculations" section.

Work plan

We will conditionally divide the installation of hl on the ceiling into five large stages. Further, each section of the article will describe these steps in full detail.

1. Scheme and calculations;
2. markup;
3. installation of profiles and hangers;
4. installation of drywall;
5. finishing /

By measuring the room and drawing up a diagram, you will get a clear idea of ​​how much materials you need.

The technology of mounting drywall to the ceiling requires accuracy. So that the structure does not skew, it is necessary to apply markings with great accuracy around the perimeter of the room.

Now let's count the number of profiles. The technology of plasterboard ceilings is as follows: first, a guide metal profile is fixed around the perimeter. Ceiling profiles are inserted into it and attached to it. Additionally, the profiles are attached to the ceiling with hangers.

Plasterboard ceiling installation technology

Important: rules for installing the guide profile

There should be no gaps between the sections of the guide profile. In the corner, one profile is inserted into the other until it stops. On one plane, the profile segments are joined into a joint. If there is an outside corner, then one of the profile sections should stick out by 27mm. Thus, a continuous belt is obtained from the guide profile.

To calculate the number of dowel-nails, be guided by the fastening approximately every 40-50 cm.

Long sections of the ceiling profile are installed exactly every 50 cm. across them. Thus, the edges of each sheet will lie clearly in the middle of the profile. No edge should be in the air! The edges adjacent to the walls will be attached directly to the guide rail.

Jumpers are inserted across the longitudinal profiles. These are sections of the same ceiling profile, installed in increments of 60 cm. The principle is the same: all edges of each sheet of gypsum board must fall into the middle of the profile. The middle of the sheet must also be fixed. Lintel length = 50 cm minus the width of the ceiling profile (60 mm), that is, 44 cm.

The hangers are installed along the entire length of the longitudinal profiles in 60 cm increments.

For clarity, draw all the profiles on your diagram so as not to make a mistake in the calculation. Each intersection of the ceiling profiles is one crab and three self-tapping screws for metal (with a press washer).

Self-tapping screws for drywall are screwed in in 15 cm increments... Just take the total length of all profiles in centimeters and divide it by 15.

Buy putty at the rate of 1 kg of ready-made mixture per 1 m 2, approximately 3 kg per sheet... A kilogram of the finished mixture, not the powder.

Materials are worth buying with a small margin - about 20%. Quickly calculate what you need with a calculator.

Markup

So, we start directly with the installation of the ceiling plasterboard.

Usually drywall on the ceiling is mounted strictly horizontally. Arm yourself with a level and get ready to draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. You can limit yourself to short strokes every half a meter. The main thing is that the ends of the marking should converge exactly at the same level.

The correct arrangement of drywall sheets on the ceiling is important.

To avoid buying tools

It makes no sense to buy rather expensive equipment for a one-time job. Tools such as laser level, hammer drill and screwdriver can be rented.

You can draw a line with a pencil along a long, straight bar. A piece of ceiling profile is suitable for this purpose. You can only put marks in the corners, then drive nails into them and pull the lace. But it is even easier to stretch the chalk cord between these marks and slap it against the wall - a flawless, straight and clearly visible line will remain.

According to this marking, a guide profile is to be installed. Remember that the finishing surface of the ceiling will be about an inch lower.

Next, you need to mark the installation locations of the ceiling profiles. Place marks directly on the wall, just below the track profile attachment line. They should be visible even after installing the gypsum board sheets. Stroke in 50 cm increments for long ceiling profiles, in 60 cm increments for lintels.

It remains to mark the connection points of the longitudinal profile with the jumpers. Draw on metal with a marker. Add strokes every 60 centimeters on the longitudinal profiles. You can do this even before you install them into the guide profiles. Mark the ends with which you started: they should all be on the same side of the room.

Installation of profiles and hangers

Drill the guide profile with a 6 mm drill bit with a pitch of about 40 cm. In principle, you can punch it with a hammer drill directly at the installation site. When drilling a wall, hold the profile firmly. Make sure that it does not move relative to the marking.

Through drilling of the guide profile permitted

If you have drywall walls, then you need to imagine at what distance the drywall is from the wall. The working part of the dowel (with a notch) must completely sit in the concrete.

On walls longer than 3 m, be sure to “splice” the guide profiles by inserting one into the other. They also need to be joined in the corners. Then install the longitudinal ceiling profiles by inserting their ends into the guide profile.

Trick: how easy it is to insert the ceiling profile into the guide

Use scissors to cut the corners at the ends of the ceiling profile. This will make it much easier to slide it into the guide, especially if you are working alone.

It is best to install the hangers before you fix the longitudinal profiles and install the jumpers. You just need to make sure that the profiles stand exactly in their places: you will be guided by them where to put the suspensions.

For fastening to concrete, a dowel-nail is usually used. You can also take it - it holds much stronger, but it is also much more difficult to dismantle it.

Concrete floors in old apartments are tricky. It often happens that a drill, having passed a little less than a centimeter, falls into the void. You can deal with such surprises in different ways:

1. take a very long dowel-nail;
2. attach the suspension in a different place;
3. instead of a dowel-nail, drive in a wooden cork and fix the suspension with a self-tapping screw.

It is better to mount a straight suspension not in the extreme holes (which are in the petals), but in the neighboring ones, which are closer to the middle. Fastening by the petals, of course, is more convenient: it is easier to get to them when the frame is already assembled. But this method will allow the ceiling to sag a little.

You can use straight hangers even when the ceiling height from the ceiling is more than 20 cm. You just need to use two instead of one hanger.

But it is much more convenient to use an anchor suspension. The rod of the anchor suspension is attached to the ceiling in the same ways as with a straight suspension, through an eyelet previously bent by 90 ° with pliers. Please note that only the ear itself needs to be folded. The rest of the bar should stay perfectly straight.

Where to install suspensions? Above each of the long ceiling profiles, with a pitch of about 50-60 cm. They must not fall into the joints of the longitudinal and transverse profiles! Be guided by the markings applied earlier.

Direct suspension

After nailing straight hangers, bend the legs 90 ° down. Do this carefully - after bending, the legs should remain perfectly straight.

When all hangers are nailed down, install the longitudinal profiles along the markings (every 50 cm). Secure them with self-tapping screws through the guide profile, one at each end.

Tightening self-tapping screws without a drill is not so difficult. The main thing is to use a suitable bat (labeled “PH2”). Press the screw well (but without fanaticism) and turn at medium speed. After a second or two, the sharp tip will pierce the metal, and then the self-tapping screw is screwed in without difficulty.

Cut the jumpers. Please note that the length of the outer jumpers will not be 44, but 47 cm. Connect the jumpers with “crabs”.

Ceiling crab for connecting cross profiles

Crabs snap on top. They have special petals with holes for fastening with self-tapping screws to the profile. Bend the petals and attach the crab with one self-tapping screw to the long profile. Before doing this, make sure that it has not moved relative to the mark. Twist two more self-tapping screws through the same petals into each jumper.

How to save on crabs

Make the jumpers 6 cm longer. Cut off the side shelves 3 cm from each end. Screw the rest, middle, part with a self-tapping screw directly to the long ceiling profile from below. Do not be embarrassed by the fact that the screw cap protrudes a little: this will not be a serious hindrance to the tight fit of the drywall.

Options for connecting profiles without using a crab in the photo:

With such savings, the rigidity of the frame will suffer somewhat. Of course, the ceiling won't collapse; it will just be a little less smooth and durable.

Do not rush to screw straight hangers to the profile. The problem is that profiles with a length of 2 m or more will inevitably sag. Especially if you used an extension cord (longitudinal connector).

We eliminate the sagging with a cord pulled tight across all longitudinal profiles:

1. screw one self-tapping screw into the guide profile at each end of the room, in the middle of the wall;
2. tie a lace to them and pull it properly;
3. you can see that the long profiles “lie” on the lace. Before fastening with the suspenders, lift them up so that they hang 1-2 millimeters above the lace.

When all suspensions and all jumpers are screwed to the longitudinal profiles, the frame is ready. Moving on to installing drywall on the ceiling.

Installation of drywall sheets

But first you need to make insulation (if in your case it is necessary). There are different ways to insulate the ceiling. Perhaps the most convenient is mineral wool insulation. The roll insulation is simply placed on top of the frame. Work with gloves, goggles and a respirator - the dust from mineral wool irritates even the skin, not to mention the mucous membranes.

And now you can screw on the sheets of gypsum board. Start at the edge where the whole sheet fits. Place the sheet across the long profiles, close to the walls. If you did everything correctly and accurately, then the edges of the sheet along the entire length will be exactly in the middle of the ceiling profiles.

Screw the sheet to all profiles, both at the edges and in the middle. Along the edge, the screws should go about every 15 cm, in other places you can increase the step to 20-25 cm.

How to attach sheets

GKL has a front side and a wrong side. On the front side, the chamfer is rounded along the longitudinal edges of the sheet and there is a slight unevenness. The wrong side is always flat– for a snug fit to the surface.

Screw in self-tapping screws ten millimeters from the edge. At least 15 mm must be removed from the cut edge. Step back at least five centimeters from the corners!

The screw cap must be slightly recessed into the surface of the plate. Do this carefully: the screw is quite easy to overtighten, especially with a lack of experience. In such work, a special drywall bit with a limiter helps a lot.

From the marks on the wall, you can see where the profiles go. However, you can draw a sheet of drywall in advance, even before you lift it and start fixing it. Continue a longitudinal row of sheets, end to end, without gaps. In this work, it is difficult to do without an assistant.

Devices for not holding a drywall sheet

Make a backup. Take a board slightly longer than the ceiling height, screw a piece of board about a meter long across it to make the letter “T”. Reinforce with two planks obliquely. Such a device, similar to a mop, is used by masters all over the world when they make installation of plasterboard on the ceiling.

Methods for mounting the GKL ceiling without an assistant:

Using the lift

Homemade version of holding the sheet on the ceiling

The next row starts from half of the sheet. The technology requires that the seams between the sheets do not cross crosswise. The correct placement of the slabs resembles brickwork.

How to cut drywall sheets

With a knife. You can clerical. Mark exactly the middle and cut along the ruler. You probably have a piece of the ceiling profile left - use it as a ruler. The notch may be shallow; just cut through the paper. Place the same profile under the notch, or lay the sheet on the edge of the table and break it. All that remains is to cut the paper from the back.

If you need to cut a very narrow strip, then it is easier to use a hacksaw for wood.

The cut edges need to be chamfered additionally. This is necessary for high-quality puttying. With the same knife, cut off a few millimeters from the front side at an angle of about 45 °. Precision is not required at this stage. Do not touch the factory longitudinal edges - they have a chamfer already rounded.

Final finishing

Prime the ceiling with a roller or large brush. Use a small brush to carefully go through the seams.

After the primer has dried, apply the tape. It is glued only to the joint of two factory seams, as well as to the corners. Immediately after that, you can.

Mix a small amount of putty. At this stage, it is required to cover only the seams and grooves from the screws. Apply the filler with a narrow trowel, then smooth with a wide one.

According to the technology, it is necessary to putty the seams twice. So you have to wait until the putty dries, then apply a second, thin layer. But before that, be sure to scrape off all burrs with a spatula (just do not use much effort).

Conclusion

Actually, that's the whole article on how to mount a plasterboard ceiling. Save this page or print it as your cheat sheet on how to install drywall to your ceiling.

Good luck in the repair! In addition, watch a video selection on the installation of gypsum board structures.

To bring to life their most daring projects for decorating the ceiling, designers use drywall. With the technology of installing plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface that allows you to work with complex decorative elements. At the same time, the design is particularly robust and reliable.

The simplest false ceiling installation is one or two levels. The technique of creating a plasterboard ceiling of two levels will be discussed a little later. But you can familiarize yourself with some of the intricacies of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the material "Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: installation features".

Ceiling mount markings

According to the technology for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to apply the markings:

• So, a perfectly flat horizontal line is applied to the walls, which will become a line of the ceiling level... To do this, use a long building level or water level (spirit level). The most acceptable length of the level is one and a half to two meters, while it should have four strips in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. Subject to these requirements for the tool, the marking accuracy is guaranteed.
• When the line is outlined, its end must converge with its beginning, while its slightest shift is not permissible. When applying markings in the corner of a room using a building level, you should adhere to the rules for working with a hydro level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacers.

Technology diagram for the installation of a plasterboard ceiling

• After completing the creation of the horizontal level of the ceiling, the next step will be to mark the ceiling with the points of attachment of direct suspensions. As a result, a grid with a mesh size of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the dimensions of the cell do not correspond to the specified 600 mm, in which case their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical with respect to opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fixing gypsum board

Installation of the guide profile

The next stage of installation of a plasterboard ceiling provides for sheathing the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of such a profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm.Of course, this process has its own characteristics:

Installation of U-shaped hangers

Installation of U-shaped suspensions is carried out according to the pre-marked markings on the rough ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

Do not use dowel-nails for vertical fastening to fix the suspensions. It is recommended to use plastic dowels and screws. If the sub-ceiling is made of concrete, metal dowels, designed for heavy structures, are the best solution. However, you should be careful, since the frame dowels are also metal, but they are completely unsuitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped suspensions should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Fastening elements of the frame of the plasterboard structure to the ceiling

At the end of the process of fixing the U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes 6 x 2.7 cm are found.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles to the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short cross-sections between them. In this case, cross connections are made using a special mount.

PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then the horizontal level of the location of the ceiling profiles is designated (for this purpose, a level is used), and then it is fixed with a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. At the same time, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used for such a connection.

To make your job easier, you can use the following tips:

The most rational solution would be to install the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. Thus, you can divert attention from small defects at the junction of the drywall sheets, which will be attached in the direction of natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (GKL) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

The sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of gypsum board on a profile, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, while the screw is slightly "sunk" in the drywall sheet, somewhere two to three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, the screws should be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful not to chip the edge of the sheet. However, if such a nuisance nevertheless happened, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the place of the chip.

When attaching drywall sheets to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

• When installing drywall sheets, it should be remembered that there is a narrow profile in the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
• For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard ceiling, you should adhere to a simple rule: fewer edges - a more beautiful look;
• In the process of screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same "drowning" depth at all attachment points. Such accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting, it will allow them to be carried out as efficiently as possible;
• In order to avoid unpleasant situations, such as height differences at the joints of the sheets, the best option would be to use products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Drywall cutting technology and painting

To carry out the marking of drywall sheets, an aluminum rule is used, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contamination. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat rail.

• Marking is made on the sheet, drywall will be cut along it.
• Further, an incision is made with a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or rail). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is straight and not interrupted.
• After that, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and, with the help of a careful but confident movement, breaks. With a properly made cut, the drywall sheet will break evenly.

Drywall Cutting Instructions

• There will be cardboard on the back of the sheet, you can cut it off with a construction knife.
• To align the edge of the cut, you can use a plane or sandpaper # 4 or # 6.

To paint the plasterboard ceiling (for familiarization with the rules of painting, read: How to paint the ceiling in the kitchen: the choice of paint and the procedure for working), you must use a masking bandage and a painting net, which are used to glue the joints of drywall with the wall and joints.

The process of marking the ceiling for placement of spotlights should be done before the last paint application. Doing this will help prevent smudges and help keep the light point labels visible. The final layer of paint is applied in the direction of the strongest stream of light.

Technology: for painting a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the best solution would be to use a roller, this will save paint and allow you to create a uniform coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended ceilings from plasterboard will make it possible to carry out high-quality installation on our own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a curve at the exit and an unreliable ceiling that will need to be redone.

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Self-assembly of plasterboard on the ceiling - 7 stages of manufacturing a ceiling covering

Among the existing options for arranging a final ceiling covering, one of the most popular methods is to sew the main ceiling with plasterboard sheets. At first glance, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling may seem difficult to make on your own. From my own observations, I can say that with a competent approach, two people can cope with such a task, even without practical skills and experience in working with this material.

The use of drywall for ceiling decoration

Gypsum plasterboard (GKL) is a rigid sheet finishing material, which is intended for the manufacture of interior partitions, as well as for the rough surface of ceilings, walls, window and door openings, and other elements of building structures inside the building.

In other words, it is also called "gypsum" or "dry plaster". Each sheet of this material consists of two outer layers of thin but dense cardboard, between which there is a homogeneous solid layer of hardened gypsum mortar.

In order not to go into technical details, I will talk about the main features of the use of sheet plasterboard for finishing ceilings:

1. Plasterboard sheets have an even, uniform matte surface, which in itself is an ideal base for applying finishing materials (facing tiles, interior paint, wallpaper, etc.);

1. Compared to other building materials (brick, monolithic concrete, aerated concrete), the price of drywall is significantly lower, besides, it has a much lower specific weight, therefore it is considered the most suitable material for interior construction;
2. The gypsum mineral base does not burn independently, and does not support combustion, and all components for the production of drywall are made from non-toxic environmentally friendly raw materials, therefore it is safe to use it for interior decoration of residential and sleeping quarters;
3. Due to the composite sheet construction, drywall has sufficient rigidity, and at the same time some flexibility and elasticity... These qualities make it possible to use it both for leveling rectilinear surfaces with a large area, and for sewing up complex interior details with a curved configuration (decorative bay windows, cornices, ceiling lighting, etc.);

1. Plasterboard sheets can be hemmed at a considerable distance from the main ceiling... This makes it possible to carry out hidden laying of electrical cables, ventilation pipes and other communications in free space behind a decorative suspended ceiling;
2. Ceiling sheets must be attached to a supporting metal frame, which itself has a certain thickness. After installing drywall, the final ceiling in the room becomes lower by at least 50 mm, so this method is not suitable for finishing rooms with an initially low level of the main ceiling (less than 2500 mm).
3. The mineral gypsum base and the outer layer of the cardboard strongly absorb moisture, and when soaked, they lose their strength and deteriorate over time. For this reason, I do not recommend using this material for finishing damp rooms with constant high humidity (sauna, bathroom or shower room).

Cardboard for the outer layers of the gypsum board is made from natural cellulose raw materials, therefore, in conditions of low temperature, high humidity, and insufficient supply of fresh air, an ideal breeding ground for the development and growth of mold is created on its surface. To prevent the appearance of mold, it is necessary to provide optimal temperature conditions for operation and high-quality ventilation of the interceiling space.

Stage 1: calculation of the amount of materials

As for the purchase of materials, there should not be any problems with this at all, since all components for installing drywall can currently be purchased at any building hypermarket.

1. Drywall sheets can be 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm thick. 9.5 mm thick sheets have less weight, so it is more preferable to use them for finishing ceilings The required number of sheets is determined based on the total ceiling area, plus 5% of the stock;
2. Galvanized metal profile "UD" with a section of 28x27 mm is intended for fixing gypsum plasterboard sheets to the wall along the perimeter of the room. Accordingly, its total length should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room plus 5%;

1. The galvanized metal profile of the CD brand with a cross-section of 60x27 mm is often called a ceiling profile, because it is intended for fixing drywall sheets to the ceiling. Its total length should be calculated on the basis that the guide ceiling profiles should be evenly spaced over the entire ceiling area, with a step of 600 mm between them. For trimming this profile, you also need to add 5% of the length;
2. In cases where it is required to leave some space between the capital and the false ceiling, special fasteners are used for mounting the ceiling profile, which can be of two types:

• Straight U-shaped distance suspension used if the distance between the main and false ceilings is no more than 120 mm;
• Spring wire hangers allow to lower the suspended ceiling relative to the capital one at a distance from 120 to 1000 mm.

1. The number of distance hangers must be selected so that they can be installed over the entire ceiling area, with a step of not more than 1000 mm between them in the longitudinal and transverse directions;
2. For splicing the guide profiles together along the length, you will need metal connectors, and to connect two perpendicular profiles in one plane - special crabs. The number of crabs is calculated using the formula: total length of the ceiling profile / 0.6;

1. The fastening of the metal frame to the concrete ceiling should be carried out using galvanized self-tapping screws and plastic dowels 6x60 mm. To fasten the sheets to the metal frame, use phosphated self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm;
2. For filling the joints between the sheets and sealing the attachment points, you will need a reinforcing fiberglass mesh-serpyanka and a finishing acrylic putty for drywall.

For false ceilings in the kitchen or bathroom, I recommend using moisture resistant drywall sheets. They have the nomenclature designation GKLV, and are distinguished by the green color of the outer layer of the cardboard and the blue color of the factory lettering.

Stage 2: choosing tools

For mounting drywall to the ceiling, no special equipment is required, therefore, when performing finishing work, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

1. To attach the profiles of the supporting frame to the main concrete ceiling, you will need an electric hammer drill with a set of drills, or, in extreme cases, a powerful impact drill;
2. In the process of work, you will need to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws, so I recommend using a cordless screwdriver for these purposes;

1. To cut metal profiles to the desired size, you can use a grinder with a metal cutting disc, a hand hacksaw for metal, or metal scissors;
2. It is convenient to cut drywall sheets in a straight line with a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades;
3. If you need to make a curved cut along a radius or curved line, you can use an electric jigsaw with a saw for wood or metal;

1. From hand tools, you will need a square, a tape measure, a building level, a hydraulic or laser level, a plumb line, a chopping line, a medium hammer and a plane to trim the cut edge of the sheets;
2. For the final finishing, you will need two metal spatulas with blade widths of 40-60 mm and 80-120 mm, as well as a set of emery cloth with a grain size from P80 to P150.

Installation work on finishing the ceiling with plasterboard can be performed from two ladders, but it is more convenient to use an old unnecessary table for this. If the household does not have such a table, it is possible to build two small platforms of such height from boards or bars so that the half-bent arm of a standing person can freely reach the ceiling.

Stage 3: preparatory work and marking

Before performing installation work, you need to completely empty the room, remove all the furniture from the room, and dismantle the old ceiling covering (foam tiles, stretch ceilings, etc.). If wallpaper is glued on the main ceiling, which normally sticks, and does not fall off themselves, then it is not necessary to dismantle them.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out the laying and installation of utilities (electrical cables, ventilation pipes, cassette air conditioner, etc.), which must be hidden behind the suspended ceiling.

1. In order to mount drywall sheets on the ceiling strictly horizontally, you need to apply appropriate markings along the perimeter of the walls;

1. Capital ceilings in residential buildings are far from always even, therefore when applying markings on the walls, I do not advise to push off from the main ceiling;
2. For drawing horizontal lines, it is most convenient to use a laser level. It must be fixed at a given height, and along the line of the laser beam, apply horizontal markings on each wall;
3. The laser level is quite expensive, so if you do not have one, then for these purposes you can use a hydraulic level, which works on the principle of communicating vessels;
4. In an arbitrary place on any wall, a horizontal mark should be placed 10 mm above the level at which the final ceiling should be mounted;

1. After that, one person should apply one of the transparent tubes of the hydraulic level to this place, and combine the level of the liquid in the tube with the mark on the wall;
2. The second person should, by rearranging the ladder, put horizontal marks opposite the liquid level in the second tube, on each wall in two places, in each corner of the room;
3. After that, all marks on the walls must be connected with a straight horizontal line, which will serve as the lower boundary of the installation of the wall guide profile for drywall. It is more convenient to draw a long horizontal line not under a ruler, but to beat off with chalk using a stretched construction cord;
4. To make it easier to mount the ceiling profile, in addition to marking the walls, I also recommend applying the marking lines to the ceiling;

1. To do this, on the ceiling, parallel to the long walls, you need to draw an axial line, which should divide the room into two equal parts;
2. From the center line, in each direction to the side long walls, lay an equal number of segments 600 mm long, and connect them with parallel lines. The last segments, which will be closer to the wall, can be of any arbitrary length, but not more than 600 mm;
3. The same must be done between the short walls: draw a short center line, mark from it in each direction with an interval of 600 mm, and connect them with straight lines. Ultimately, you should get a ceiling in a cell, with a side length of each square along the axes of 600 mm.

It is easy to make a hydraulic level with your own hands from two transparent tubes 200-300 mm long, 8-12 mm in diameter, and a piece of flexible rubber or silicone hose of the same diameter, 5-8 meters long. Approximately in the middle of each tube, you need to apply two marks, and connect them together with a rubber hose, after which, from mark to mark, fill the entire system with plain water.

Stage 4: assembly and installation of the supporting frame

After marking, the “UD” guide profile can be fixed to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to use self-tapping screws with plastic dowels 6x60 mm, installing them at a distance of 400-600 mm between them.

In the event that the ceiling in the room is flat enough, and you do not plan a hidden laying of communications, the ceiling guide profile can be fixed directly to the ceiling. Otherwise, to mount it, you need to use one of two types of distance hangers. As an example, I will talk about how to properly attach a profile to the ceiling using perforated U-shaped spacers.

1. First of all, using the same self-tapping screws and plastic dowels, you need to fix all distance U-shaped suspensions from a perforated metal strip to the ceiling;

1. For this we need the markings in the form of squares on the ceiling. Along the entire length of each straight line marking, it is necessary to fix such a number of suspensions so that the distance between them is about 1000 mm;
2. After that, you need to install the longitudinal ceiling profiles. To do this, one whip of the "CD" profile must be inserted into the U-shaped hangers and temporarily fixed with a long nail or hairpin;
3. Next, bring its end inside the wall profile, and fix it with two self-tapping screws. After that, the ceiling profile must be set strictly horizontally in level, and also fixed to the legs of each suspension using self-tapping screws;

1. If the length of one whip is not enough, then it can be extended with the same profile... After it is fixed to all distance hangers, its free end must be brought into the wall profile of the opposite wall, and also secured with two self-tapping screws;
2. Thus, all longitudinal ceiling profiles must be secured. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that the distance between the center lines of each profile is exactly 600 mm, with a permissible error of no more than 10 mm in each direction.

1. After that, you need to install the transverse jumpers. They are mounted in the same way, at a distance of 600 mm from each other, and are also attached to the wall profile and to U-shaped suspensions;
2. The only difference is that all internal lintels are attached to the longitudinal profiles with crabs... This mounting technology allows you to connect two profiles to each other at right angles in one horizontal plane.

In order to prevent the supporting frame from sagging in the central part of the ceiling, I recommend installing temporary control diagonals. To do this, you need to wrap one self-tapping screw in each corner of the room in the wall guide profile, then tie it to them, and pull a thin nylon thread along the diagonals of the room.

Stage 5: filing drywall sheets

When the supporting frame is fully assembled and mounted on the ceiling, I recommend checking its geometric dimensions again and making sure that it is perfectly horizontal. After that, you can start directly attaching the drywall to the ceiling.

Each plasterboard sheet with a thickness of 9.5 mm can have dimensions of 1200x2500 mm or 1200x3000 mm, and the weight of the sheets is 22 or 27 kg, respectively. For this reason, such work must be done at least together.

1. Installation of sheets should start from the longitudinal center line, while each sheet should be located parallel to the long wall;

1. Before fixing the drywall to the ceiling, the first sheet must be applied from below to the supporting frame in such a way that its short side does not reach the short wall by 2 mm, and its long edge runs exactly in the middle of the central axial profile;
2. Having installed the first sheet in the desired position, one person should hold it from below and press it against the metal frame with his hands, and the second person, in the meantime, should fix it to the profile with self-tapping screws;
3. Self-tapping screws must be tightened evenly around the entire perimeter of the sheet, with a step of 150-200 mm, while fastening not only to the longitudinal guides, but also to the transverse bridges. It is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw with such an effort so that the cap sinks into the plasterboard plate by about 1 mm;

1. The second sheet must also be pressed against the supporting frame, and rest it with the short side against the short edge of the first sheet. Thus, first of all, you need to fix one row of sheets on one side of the center line;
2. It is desirable that the joints of the sheets in the first and second row are not located opposite each other.... In most cases, the last sheet of the first row will have to be cut to length. In order for the sheets to be staggered, it is better to start fastening the second row from the opposite side of the room;

1. In a similar way, it is necessary to fix all the other sheets of drywall, while it is important to ensure that they do not reach the walls by 2 mm along the entire perimeter, and their joints fall exactly in the middle of the longitudinal ceiling profile;
2. Before attaching the outer sheets along the long walls, they will need to be trimmed to the width. When trimming and fastening the edge sheets, it must be borne in mind that the cut end should be located closer to the wall, and the factory edge with a notch on the edge should be close to the adjacent sheet.

So that the assistant does not have to hold each sheet with his hands, I advise you to make one or two wooden supports for drywall. Each support is a T-shaped structure of 50x50 mm wooden blocks, made in the form of a mop. The upper horizontal bar of such a "mop" should have a length of 600-800 mm, and the lower support leg should rest on the floor, and not reach the supporting frame by 10-12 mm in height.

Stage 6: rough finishing work

After all the sheets of drywall are mounted, even by a professional craftsman, small gaps and cracks will remain between them, and the entire surface of the ceiling will be dotted with black caps from self-tapping screws. In order to give it a finished appearance, and prepare it for painting or wallpapering, a rough finish is performed at the final stage of the installation of the suspended ceiling.

I advise you to use a ready-made acrylic-based finishing putty for this.

1. Ceiling filling is usually done in two stages.... First, you need to putty all visible fasteners, caps from self-tapping screws, longitudinal and transverse joints between sheets, as well as other large irregularities and surface defects;

1. The long edges of drywall sheets are usually chamfered or shallowly cut. In order to prevent the seams from cracking over time, in the process of filling in this recess it is necessary to lay a reinforcing glass mesh, which is popularly called "serpyanka";
2. When the first layer of putty has finally hardened, it must be sanded with an emery cloth of medium grain size (P80-P100).
3. For gluing dense wallpaper on a thick vinyl or fiberglass base, such surface preparation will be sufficient;

1. If you plan to paint the ceiling with interior acrylic paint, I recommend applying another thin layer of finishing putty, and after it dries, sand the entire surface with fine emery cloth with grit P100-P150;
2. At the end of all, you need to remove fine dust from the putty with a damp cloth or a soft wide brush, and apply one or two layers of a penetrating primer for interior work over the entire area of ​​the ceiling.

For sanding the surface after filling, I recommend using an electric vibrating sander with interchangeable perforated velcro sanding discs. If there is no such machine, then to evenly remove the excess layer of putty, you can use a manual plastic holder with spring clips for rolled sandpaper.

Stage 7: mounting the ceiling light

In any enclosed space, even in the presence of natural light, the installation of ceiling lamps or a chandelier is required. As you know, drywall ceiling sheets have a small thickness (9.5 mm), therefore they are not able to withstand a significant weight load. Modern household chandeliers can vary widely in size and weight. If a light small ceiling lamp can be fixed directly to drywall or a metal profile, then this method will not work for a massive heavy chandelier.

For those who do not know how to fix a chandelier to a plasterboard suspended ceiling, I can tell you two simple, but very reliable ways:

1. The first of them is that when installing a metal supporting frame, it is necessary to provide in advance for the installation of a mortgage platform made of thick plywood. This method can be used to mount any ceiling luminaire weighing up to 20 kg;

• In those places where the project provides for the installation of lamps or chandeliers, a round or square plywood platform with a size of 250x250 mm and a thickness of at least 20 mm must be attached to the main concrete ceiling;
• After finishing the ceiling, the luminaire can be screwed to plywood through drywall using ordinary wood screws 4.5x50 mm in size;
• If the chandelier is to hang on a hook, then a mounting hook with a large screw thread must be screwed into the board, which is designed to be screwed into plastic dowels.

1. The second method involves fixing the chandelier directly into the thickness of the concrete slab of the main ceiling, therefore, it allows you to mount even very heavy and bulky lamps.

• In the event that the ceiling space has a height of more than 200 mm, I recommend preparing the mounting point for the chandelier in advance, before installing the drywall sheets;
• If the space between the main and false ceilings is less than 200 mm, then the hook for attaching the chandelier can be installed after finishing the finishing;
• To do this, you must first cut a hole with a diameter of 50 mm in drywall, and then, using a 10 mm perforator with a drill, drill a hole in the center of the concrete slab to a depth of at least 80 mm;
• The expanding anchor MSA10 must be screwed onto a long eyebolt or threaded rod with a hook with a diameter of 8 mm.
• Then insert and slightly hammer it into the hole in the concrete slab, and screw the eye bolt into the anchor along the thread, until a characteristic metal squeak appears;
• This method is also good because it allows you to hide long wires behind a plasterboard ceiling.

A folding spring anchor can be used to secure a light fixture or chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling. To do this, drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in the plasterboard, squeeze the spring-loaded legs of the anchor with your fingers, and push it into the hole. After the legs are unclenched under the action of the spring behind the plasterboard sheet, you need to tighten the clamping nut from the outside.

Conclusion

If, according to a technical project, the interior design involves the manufacture of a multi-level ceiling, all work must be performed in the same sequence. The difference lies in the fact that first you need to mount a continuous plasterboard covering over the entire area of ​​the ceiling, and then proceed with the installation and sewing of additional decorative levels and cornices for counter-tracery lighting.

You can see all the visual information about installing drywall on ceilings in the attached video in this article, and if you have any questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.