Installation of expanded polystyrene tiles requires a minimum of tools, time and additional materials, therefore the fastest and least labor-intensive type of ceiling decoration is an adhesive ceiling. Foam polystyrene tiles are divided into three types according to the production method: stamped, injection and extruded.
- Stamped
- Pressed
- Extruded
- Seamless ceiling
- Standard sizes
Stamped
This is the simplest and cheapest type of product; it is made from expanded polystyrene on stamping machines at an elevated temperature. Stamped tiles have the most disadvantages: they are fragile, crumble at a break, and is difficult to clean. But since the adhesive ceiling is practically not exposed to mechanical action, this disadvantage can be disregarded. After carefully gluing the tile and letting it dry, you can paint it with water-based acrylic paint in any color, and then, if necessary, renew it with a new paint.
Prices for stamped tiles range from 39 rubles and more, but usually do not exceed 55 rubles. Having successfully chosen the pattern and color, in a room with a glue ceiling from inexpensive tiles, you can create a good design, despite the budget version of the products.
Pressed
It is also called injection. It is produced in molds by sintering polystyrene foam, and in terms of quality indicators it is higher than stamped tiles. It is produced in white, but after pasting the ceiling it can be painted with acrylic paint.
In addition to a smooth surface, stamped tiles are manufactured with a profile relief. The lower the ceiling in the room, the less voluminous you need to choose the pattern on the tile, otherwise the ceiling in the room will seem even lower. The cost of the material depends on the density of the expanded polystyrene sheet and the complexity of the pattern, and ranges from 59 to 100 rubles.
In this photo, pressed tiles, imitating stucco molding, are suitable for spacious rooms, such as a living room.
Extruded
The most expensive and high quality ceiling tiles are extruded. Its surface is covered with a thin film (laminated), so the surface of the tile is perfectly smooth, easy to clean and is not afraid of minor mechanical stress. Another advantage of such a product is the unlimited choice of colors. It is produced with imitation of stone, wood or just plain color, so you can immediately choose a product of a suitable shade and not carry out additional work on painting the ceiling. The photo below shows an example of an extruded marbled tile.
The protective film on the extruded tile creates a water-repellent effect. Therefore, if you need to make an adhesive ceiling in a kitchen or bathroom, it is better to choose a product with a laminated coating, since vapors can accumulate in these rooms.
In addition to lamination, extruded tiles can be factory painted with waterproof paints, which creates a coating that is not inferior to laminated ones.
The average cost of 1m2 of extruded tiles is about 100 rubles. The price for expensive options for products with a beautiful pattern and high-quality coating reaches 170 rubles per 1m2.
For different manufacturers, the price of expanded polystyrene ceiling tiles varies significantly. You can buy inexpensively Omsk tiles Format Lagom from the factory of the same name: the price is from 39 rubles. The product will cost a little more from VTM Holding companies from Rostov-on-Don and Nitram from Mytishchi, Moscow Region: from 49 to 82 rubles.
Seamless ceiling
Seamless tiles have no edges, and when the sheets are joined, the joints between the tiles are almost invisible and the surface appears to be a solid canvas. Tiles for a seamless ceiling come with a wavy edge, and then its surface is especially beautiful.
But the seamless type of tiles is only suitable for pasting perfectly flat surfaces, since at small drops the edges of the tiles are difficult to join, and they look very ugly. Of particular difficulty is the gluing of the ceiling with seamless tiles with a complex relief pattern. Some craftsmen mount seamless tiles on a pre-arranged lathing of even slats, but then the device of a glued ceiling without seams becomes more complicated and more expensive, and sometimes the meaning of its device is lost. If the surface cannot be leveled, it is better to use a regular tile with cut rounded edges.
Standard sizes
The standard size of expanded polystyrene tiles is 50 × 50 cm, which means that there are 4 square sheets per 1m2. This size makes it easy to count the number of tiles for pasting the ceiling. Tiles are sold packed in 2 m2, that is, 8 pieces per package, but if you need to buy an odd number of m2, you can ask the seller to get the missing sheets of tiles from the package.
Rectangular tiles measuring 100 × 16.5 cm are also considered standard. It is mainly used as a decorative element and is glued to the wall along the perimeter for finishing the already glued ceiling.
Recently, some manufacturers have begun to produce ceiling tiles in a wider range of sizes. There are products 60x60 cm, 40x40 cm, 70x40 cm, 70x30 cm and 60x30 cm.Having glued tiles in the room of a non-standard size, you can visually expand or lengthen the ceiling.
See also: How to choose a ceiling plinth, Styrofoam ceiling tiles, Buy a hanging chair to the ceiling, Self-adhesive PVC tiles for the floor. Reviews
Styrofoam on the ceiling
Renovation is an expensive undertaking. In addition, it takes time for a complete renovation of the interior, which also requires a lot. What to do in case of limited resources, timelines are tightening and repairs must be done at least temporarily?
It is necessary to choose a relatively inexpensive material that is easy to use, in front of the walls, which will happen as quickly as possible.
Within this obvious solution, among other things, Styrofoam is a Styrofoam (Styrofoam) tile on the ceiling. It has obvious advantages as described below.
Advantages and disadvantages of foam panels
Styrofoam styrofoam
As the name suggests, foam ceiling tiles are made from a lightweight synthetic material such as expanded polystyrene foam.
Its advantages:
- Thermal insulation properties. This is especially true if the ceiling is on the top floor of a home, private or apartment building.
- Soundproofing. Protection from external noise is necessary not only in cities, but also in remote villages.
- Resistant to moisture. Polyfoam practically does not provide moisture, even longer use of tiles from it in the bathroom or in the kitchen will not damage the coating.
In a pinch, the adhesive will suffer, and then only with the wrong selection.
- Repair and replacement. If the tiles on the ceiling are broken or cleaned for any reason, replacing them will be fairly straightforward.
- Wide range of samples. There is a possibility to choose any drawing or, if it is correct, to imprint the foam on the plastic foil.
The market offer will allow you to simulate high quality plaster.
- Technologies. Completing a ceiling with such a tile consists of marking and gluing. All of these levels are not particularly difficult for those who have never been renovated. In addition, styrofoam can be easily dyed in almost any color.
- Expenses. Polyfoam is very cheap, the purchase cost will be minimal.
- The weight. Covering material with an extremely low specific gravity will not result in noticeable stress on the ceiling.
Like all other building materials, foams have many disadvantages that limit their use. These include:
- Indirect. Polyfoam is a completely synthetic product with all the ensuing consequences. For example, when it is washed out, not only harmful, but sometimes toxic substances are released from it.
- Low fire resistance. The foam will not withstand strong heat, it will melt and light up. Therefore, it is not recommended to place it next to heating devices and should not be closer to the ceiling of a high-power lantern, which is covered with such tiles. For example, a chandelier with horns pointing upwards is completely illegal with such a finishing material.
- Low resistance to mechanical stress. Foam ceilings are very soft and can damage them.
We have to rely solely on the fact that no one will do it on purpose, but you can accidentally accidentally touch something by accident, but this is very problematic.
- Low resistance to sunlight. If direct sunlight hits the styrofoam, it, like many other plastics, will turn yellow after a while.
- Low aesthetic properties.
Whatever the drawing on such a board, it is impossible to create a rich interior design. This is the main quality of foam tiles that make repairs using temporary ones.
How to glue ceiling sheets? (7 photos)
Foam types
Foam types
Foam ceilings are classified according to the technology used in their manufacture. Depending on the production method, some of the characteristics of the tile vary significantly:
- Tile made by pressing (embossed).
A blank is cut from a large piece of expanded polystyrene, from which tiles can be printed using this or another pattern. The thickness of the finished product is up to seven millimeters, the color is matte white. Its main advantage is inexpensive, which allows them not to be afraid of high costs for both completion and partial replacement of tiles. Tile veneer tiles are good for almost any color. The main disadvantage of this tile is its fragility. Careless handling both during installation and during transport will inevitably damage the material.
In addition, in a compressed plate, the edge, if slightly defective, will be very noticeable.
- Sintered or injected plate. It is made of high quality polystyrene raw materials in a mold, exposed to high temperature. Its thickness reaches fourteen inches, and its color is about the same as for compressed slabs.
The injection plate is not afraid of moisture and water, but also has good sound insulation properties. On the other hand, the large thickness allows for a great depth image, making the very small cutting blocking joints almost invisible.
- Extruded boards. Its color is not very appealing, so be sure to cover it up with a special film. Extruded tiles are the most durable, with a low thickness, much more resistant to mechanical stress. The main disadvantages are relatively high costs and rather large deviations from certain sizes.
There is an obvious inaccuracy in geometry during installation, so the extruded polystyrene ceiling tiles require more care when gluing than any other.
Preparation for gluing tiles
Preparation for gluing tiles
Building a ceiling with foam filtration, as already mentioned, is preferable to other materials during processing.
This statement also applies to preparatory work, which will not be too spacious and boring.
After all, this latter material hides various cracks, hills, holes and other surface imperfections that do not need to be separated separately.
However, some preparatory work is needed. If there is chalk or lime on the ceiling, wash them. If all types of clothing are present, they should also be removed. A primer coat is required on the ceiling surface to ensure sufficient adhesion to the adhesive.
For example, you can use a ready-made solution that is sold at any home improvement store.
As a rule, tiles on the ceiling made of different types of foam form a square, with a side length of 50 centimeters. Before gluing, you must carefully measure each side of the ceiling. Each of them consists in the fact that the difference between seemingly identical sides can be several centimeters.
If this is not taken into account, the holes in the device will be too high and difficult to repair.
After measuring the ceiling, calculate the number of whole tiles. All incomplete tile inserts must be carefully measured and cut with cutting tools. Large deviations in such preparatory work are also undesirable, all for the same reasons can lead to a loss in the quality of the installation.
To ensure high accuracy of installation, a line must be drawn on the ceiling.
For each tile, there is no need to accurately mark the surfaces, it is enough to pull out the control lines every meter, both along and across. It is then almost impossible to make a mistake in significant numbers.
Tile
Ceiling tiles
There is a control line on the ceiling, the tile is ready, the glue and tools to use it, you can proceed with the installation.
If the training is at a good level, this level will not cause any particular problems.
Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue or special joints can be used for bonding polystyrene foam boards, for example. Glue "Dragon". They are good if the ceiling surface is completely flat. If there is irregularity hidden only for installation, it is recommended to use a mixture of PVA glue and gypsum in water.
This design secures the tiles securely to the ceiling, and its tag can be adjusted to the height in a specific area.
Bonding technology is more than simple.
The slabs at the edges and in the middle should be expanded with adhesive, placed on the ceiling, aligned along the control lines, along the walls and adjacent plates, and slightly compressed. After pressing it, you need to hold the plate for a minute or two so that the glue has time to approach the ceiling surface. Everything must be done with care, remember that the foams are very light and move easily from the bonding site.
If the tiles do not fit close together, the error can be corrected by using the same PVA adhesive mixed with gypsum mortar. After painting, this surface preparation is irrelevant.
Along the edges is a ceiling covered with expanded polystyrene, usually trimmed with a ceiling leg or, as it is often called, a baguette. The edge of the ceiling is made of the same material as the tile, so it should be glued together.
The last level of finishing the ceiling of the tile is painted with acrylic or another color.
There are no special technological methods for this. If you do not need to remember the embossed surface that cannot be painted with a roller. Use a brush for work, preferably a small width.
How and with what can you independently seal the seams on the ceiling tiles?
How to mend the seams on the ceiling tiles myself?
To be honest, it is not entirely clear from the question of which tile we are talking about.
Styrofoam ceiling tiles: application in design
If about tiled, then this is one thing, if made of foam (or similar to foam) material, then this is another. I will focus on both options.
Tiles: The seams are rubbed in the same way as on the walls or on the floor. With exactly the same grout, I advise you to use Ceresit grout, it has an excellent consistency, plus a huge selection of colors, you can choose which one suits you best.
Tile grouting begins with cleaning the joints, from tile glue, I use a specially sharpened screwdriver for this purpose.
The seams were cleaned, we dilute the grout, the grout should be a little thinner than sour cream, this will better fill all the seams.
Of course, there are special spatulas for grouting (rubber), you can work with them, you can use iron ones, but sometimes they leave stripes, in general, you need to see the tiles.
We wipe the seams in about ten minutes, I advise you to use furniture foam rubber, it does not scatter into small pieces and smoothes the seams perfectly, change the water more often, you can pour the used water into the sewer with a diameter of 100 mm, 50 tons, you cannot.
The tile is dry, now wipe it with a dry cloth.
The last tip on this topic: Do not dilute a lot of grout, try to wipe a couple of squares, and not all at once, although the ceiling in the bathroom (if we are talking about this room) is a couple of squares, a little more, up to 2.5, more precisely).
If the tile is made of polystyrene, then you bought an extremely poor quality material, such a tile is glued into the joint and there simply should not be any seams on it.
If, nevertheless, you become the owner of a poor-quality material, then there is a way out, I propose to glue such tiles on white silicone, firstly, in a humid room, silicone is better than any putties, and secondly, you will seal (whiten) the seams with the same silicone.
When working with silicone, use a "gun" and a damp cloth, wipe off excess silicone almost immediately.
First, we clean the seams from glue or anything else they are filled with.
The seams should be 3-5 mm deep, otherwise the grout layer will not last long. We dilute the grout in water in small portions and apply it to the tile with a rubber spatula, trying to completely fill all the seams.
Let the grout set a little and after about 15 minutes wash off with a sponge and plenty of water. After washed for the first time, we take the plastic socket from the nail dowel and at the same angle we draw it along all the seams evenly deepening them. After washing the tile again, or you can wipe it dry, I use the second option if the tile is glossy, small particles of grout polish the tile well.
If we talk about the arrangement of the ceiling plane, then at the moment there are a lot of options in this regard. Tension and suspension systems, as well as structures made of wood, are especially popular. But, perhaps, the most widespread distribution behind the foam ceiling tiles. Such material is relatively inexpensive. And if you add to this the possibility of arranging such a ceiling with your own hands, then we can say with confidence that there is no price for a foam ceiling! In addition, you can glue the tiles in a straight line or diagonally. And the design solutions that exist today can not be counted on the fingers!
Ceiling tile features
The easiest way to make your ceiling modern is to stick foam tiles on it. Ceiling tiles are widely used in living spaces, even when more and more consumers are choosing stretch ceilings.
There are different types of foam ceiling tiles, each of which has advantages over the rest. In their shape, the tiles are rectangular, square, diamond-shaped and hexagonal. But the most popular are traditional square products. Their front surface is laminated or simple, smooth or embossed, painted with a wood texture, stone, fabric, imitating wood carving or stucco molding. It is advisable to use laminated tiles in the kitchen, while waterproof panels are better for bathrooms and other wet areas.
Also, foam ceiling tiles are of three types: injection, 9-14 millimeters thick, which is made by casting and sintering raw materials in a press mold, pressed (stamped), which has a thickness of 6-7 millimeters, and extruded, pressed from an extruded strip and painted or covered with a film with standard dimensions of 50 by 50 centimeters for square tiles and 100 by 16.5 centimeters for rectangular tiles.
As for the care of foam tiles for the ceiling, it is not whimsical in principle. For this you will need a regular sponge, which you are used to washing dishes with every day, as well as soap and water. But remember that this technique is only suitable for laminated tiles, but ordinary foam panels on the ceiling should be wiped with a dry cloth or simply vacuumed. Do not wipe such a ceiling in any case with solutions in which gasoline or solvent is present, as in this way pegoplast tiles can be damaged.
Production of foam boards
The technology for the production of foam panels provides for two different methods of obtaining this material: stamping and extrusion. The first solution involves the manufacture of panels using special dies, the source for this purpose is a blank made of foam.
These materials have a high grain size and are usually produced in white. But such tiles, if necessary, can be coated with special water-dispersion paints or subjected to lamination, which gives the material a more sophisticated look and significantly improves its consumer properties.
The material in the second case is also foam, but pre-melted. Tiles are made from molten material by vacuum thermal forming. Materials obtained in this way are characterized by lower porosity, therefore they are more resistant to mechanical stress and are able to extend their useful life.
In addition, at the stage of production of tiles in this way, it is customary to add different dyes to the working composition to obtain products of any color range. But it should be noted that the production of tiles using this method requires high precision for the manufacture of products with the correct geometric characteristics.
When choosing tiles, it should be borne in mind that the extruded material has a more pronounced glossy structure, is easy to clean, it can be used in almost any room. But such tiles, due to their glossy structure, cannot undergo the staining process, and they have more visible assembly seams.
Stamped foam ceiling tiles are distinguished by higher noise and heat insulation properties, which is explained by the greater porosity and thickness of the material, and also have the correct geometric dimensions. This makes it possible to create a ceiling with almost invisible assembly joints. But the appearance of such products is inferior to the first solution.
Advantages and disadvantages of the material
The advantages of plates for creating foam ceilings are as follows:
- Styrofoam ceiling tiles can be glued to almost any surface, from bare concrete to wood shavings.
- Since the temperature of batteries or radiators in apartments is not more than 80 degrees, you can install such a tile near them without any problems.
- Under normal conditions, the useful life of foam tiles for the ceiling is calculated for years and decades, because this material is not afraid of dampness.
- Ceiling slabs are quite dense, therefore they have excellent thermal insulation and soundproofing properties.
- The light weight of the material allows for these purposes to use adhesives that are not very durable, and therefore high cost.
- Ceiling panels are easy to cut, so their installation does not take much time.
- Polyfoam is a lightweight and environmentally friendly material.
- The price of foam tiles for the ceiling is extremely low, and you can also save even more without resorting to the service of finishers.
- Ceiling slabs give the room a more aesthetic appearance and, in some cases, can visually enlarge it.
With all the advantages, foam ceilings have many disadvantages. The cheapest tiles are not very durable, they turn yellow over time from sunlight, and some of them cannot stand dampness. However, this drawback can be easily corrected by turning it into an advantage, because the foam tile lends itself to painting with ordinary water-based paint.
But the main drawback of foam ceilings is vapor permeability - the foam is able to create a thermos effect in the room, depriving the walls of the ability to absorb excess moisture. When combining such a ceiling, for example, with vinyl wallpaper, the risk that a fungus will inhabit the room will increase several times.
Polystyrene foam is hardly flammable, but it melts easily. With water heating pipes, a similar material can be glued very close. But the contact of panels with lamps, especially with powerful bulbs and an open top, is highly undesirable. It is better to play it safe and place the lamps at a distance of at least 20-30 centimeters from the surface of the foam ceiling.
In addition, it should be remembered that foam tiles are easily injured, this applies even to blunt objects. Consider this fact when transporting material from the store and when performing work on tiling the ceiling. Also, it will be quite difficult for you to achieve the impression of the integrity of the surface due to the formation of a large number of seams and joints.
Calculation of the surface for the tiles
First of all, before gluing the foam ceiling, you should stock up on the necessary materials. To this end, it is necessary to measure the area of the ceiling base and buy materials with stock adjustments. The calculation of the surface on which you will glue the foam squares is done in the following way.
If there is a room with dimensions of 3 by 2 meters, then the glued surface is 6 square meters. To form one square meter, 4 tiles measuring 50 by 50 centimeters are required. The result is 24 pieces. But it is strongly recommended to add two more tiles to the resulting number of tiles, since the room does not always differ in the correct shape and exact dimensions.
It often turns out that after the sticker procedure, there may be space on some sides, which you will fill with the material purchased in stock. And then - I really don't want to go to the store to buy one or two tiles. Take this into account when getting the calculated number.
Choosing a foam adhesive
In addition to the foam tiles themselves, you need to stock up on adhesives that are necessary to fix the material to the ceiling. For pasting squares, you can use "Moment - liquid nails", because it has a thick consistency and hardens for 15-25 minutes. It is not recommended to use glue from Chinese manufacturers "Dragon", as it is excessively liquid, its adhesive properties are very low, and the squares will need to be held on outstretched hands for a long time - a real mockery of oneself.
For 24 squares of ceiling, you will need approximately 350-400 milliliters of glue. If you buy a composition in a package for a gun in a container of 450 ml, then it will be quite enough for the ceiling plinth. And it turns out cheaper than 2 tubes of 250 milliliters.
For an uneven ceiling, the finishing putty is considered the best glue - it is with its help that you can simultaneously glue foam tiles and level the ceiling without using any kind of spacers and props.
Professional craftsmen always do this. To make glue for ceiling tiles with your own hands, you need to stir an ordinary dry finishing putty in water, and then add PVA construction glue to the resulting mass. This glue is required in proportions of 200 grams per 1 kilogram of putty.
Required tools
In view of the simplicity of the finishing work, for self-installation of foam tiles on the ceiling, you will need a minimum amount of tools: a painting cord for drawing the axis of the ceiling, ordinary scissors or an assembly knife for cutting tiles, a spatula for applying the finishing putty, measuring tools, a swing brush and rags for wiping tiles, and removing excess glue.
Surface preparation
The next step is to prepare the ceiling surface for work. Keep in mind that foam tiles can be glued to almost any flat surface that has been previously cleaned of debris and dirt, as well as old finishes (wallpaper, tiles, whitewash).
However, before performing the work itself, it is necessary to prime the base surface using a deep penetration composition. This procedure is required to prevent the spread of harmful pathogens in the cavity of the foam panels and to improve the adhesion of materials. Pay special attention to large depressions and irregularities, if any.
Ceiling markings
Next, mark the ceiling, which will accurately indicate the location of the tiles on the plane. For marking, you will need a marking cord - an ordinary rope made of natural material that is tinted with a powder-type dye. The dye and cord can be purchased at the market or at your local hardware store.
When marking, it is recommended to take into account the type of arrangement of panels on the ceiling - longitudinal or diagonal rows. Moreover, in the latter version, the operations will be more laborious, but they will visually increase the ceiling surface.
Involve a friend to mark the ceiling. Pull the cord lightly from one corner of the room diagonally to the other. Pull the lace a little from the ceiling and release, thereby you get one of the diagonals. The same must be done to get the second diagonal. After these operations, you will get two diagonals that intersect in the middle, this will be the center of the room.
Then, using a tape measure, measure the same distance from the resulting center along four lines going to the corners. For example, one and a half meters from the center to the corners, then make marks. Next, take a marking cord and beat off the lines along the marks so that you get a rectangle or square on the ceiling. After that, measure the resulting sides of this figure, the opposite lines should be equal in length (an error of 1-4 millimeters is allowed).
If the opposite sides of the geometric figure differ from each other by more than 6 millimeters, then you should again measure the segments from the center so that they are the same. After all, using a tape measure, you need to find the midpoints of the sides of the resulting rectangle or square. Using a scribe along the marks, draw lines through the center. Along these axes, you need to glue the tiles.
Many developers prefer to stick their foam ceiling cards diagonally, as shown in the photo of the foam ceiling. In this case, you need to place the axes a little differently - they should go from one corner to another and be placed at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other. If the angle is not clear, then at one moment the cards may fail.
Applying glue to the surface
The rules for gluing foam boards may differ slightly, depending on the glue used. The glue should be applied completely or dotted to the projections on the back of the panel or in the corners and in the middle.
In order not to close the marked axes, it is better to apply the putty or glue directly to the tiles - this is done with a comb, which is used for facing surfaces with tiles. If there are irregularities up to a centimeter on the ceiling, give preference to an instrument with a large tooth, not less than 12 millimeters. If this is not enough, then additionally smear the ceiling - this must be done carefully so that the axes do not wear out. The ceiling and tiles should be smeared in the opposite direction.
If you use a special glue of the ELTITAN type, then before laying the tiles, you need to stand for 10-15 minutes. It is convenient to apply glue to 3-4 panels at once, so that by the time you apply glue to the next batch of tiles, you can already glue the first of them. It is advisable to apply a thick layer of mastic for a porous ceiling.
Pasting the ceiling with panels
After marking the ceiling, you can proceed to pasting the squares onto the surface. If the squares have a relief, you need to see if the same pattern is present on all squares. If it is the same, then it will be necessary to glue the panels in a certain pattern, and if the image is different, then you can glue the products without such a pattern.
So, you need to start pasting from the resulting center of the room, since often in the process of gluing the tiles, many are faced with a failure of the seams between individual tiles. Gradually fill the entire surface. It is recommended to install the foam ceiling with de-energized electrical wiring and always wear gloves so as not to stain the panels. Glue the first tile so that one corner is exactly in the center point where the 4 center tiles will converge.
At this point, there may be fasteners for the luminaire, in this case the corners of the tiles must be cut off. The place of the cuts will be covered in the future with a plate of a chandelier or a ceiling rosette. The edges of the panel must be aligned along the previously marked perpendicular lines. Press the tile tightly when gluing to the ceiling, but make sure that there are no dents.
Place the following tiles in parallel rows, do not allow gaps between the edges. You should be guided by the triangular arrows that are on the back of the panels, they should look in the same direction.
The last rows of panels, most often, need to be cut with a knife to the desired size, and after trying on, apply glue. After filling this space with squares on the ceiling, there are small gaps on the sides, to fill them you will need the spare square that you purchased. Measure how wide the strip is needed, cut and glue like an ordinary square.
Do not glue the entire surface at once. The glue dries quickly, so you need to wash it, otherwise you will have to scrape off the glue along with the pieces of foam tile. It is necessary to gradually glue a small area, seal the seams and wipe off the remnants of the glue with a damp cloth. The gap between the outer panels and the wall must be covered with a skirting board.
Sealing the joints between tiles
Most failures in the seams of foam tiles are due to their different sizes - in order to prevent this, it is better to glue the panels not a small distance between themselves - 1-2 millimeters. Subsequently, seal these seams with the same filler. It is recommended to paint the glued ceiling tiles with neatly sealed seams immediately after drying with water-based paint to completely hide all the flaws in the work. Polyfoam can be repainted up to 5-7 times.
In principle, ceiling tiles without seams are possible. In order for the coating to look as a whole, and water does not penetrate between the seams, it is recommended to fill all the gaps between the panels with a sealant. The silicone sealant is temperature and water resistant. After filling the joints, it is recommended to smooth it with your fingers or a trowel, and remove the excess with a damp cloth.
Foam frieze sticker
The final touch to gluing the foam tiles to the ceiling is to apply the foam friezes. They, like tiles, have a wide variety of shapes, textures and colors. For small rooms, it is recommended to choose narrow skirting boards with a small, discreet image. For large rooms, it is better to take massive ones. The friezes must be glued from the corners, adjusting along the length of the wall and making an insert between the previous strip and the segment already glued from the corner.
You can apply friezes before or after wallpapering. In the first case, high accuracy is required already during the procedure for adjusting the wallpaper itself, or the use of a decorative wallpaper frieze. Now you can glue the ceiling rosette by cutting a hole for the chandelier in the middle.
It is also possible to paint the foam ceiling with paint. Light colors will look best. You can also paint the skirting board at the same time. At the end of the work, close the doors and windows in the room tightly to exclude the movement of air currents.
We told you about the features, advantages and prices of plastic ceiling tiles. There are many foam panels for the ceiling: rectangular and square, thin and thick, with and without seams, white and multi-colored. You can't count all of them, but they are united by a fairly simple installation procedure.
It's no secret that nowadays in almost any industry there is a huge amount of materials that compete with each other for the greatest distribution and popularity. And the sphere of construction and repair is a clear proof of this. Stretch and false ceilings, as well as those made of other materials, are popular here. If you are interested in ceiling tiles, styrofoam will be one of the best materials. It is about him that we will talk today.
We will discuss why foam ceiling tiles are popular now and will not lose their relevance in the near future, consider the technology of their manufacture and some of the disadvantages. Also, make sure that the foam ceiling tiles have not lost their relevance.
Distinctive features and variety
Gluing ceiling tiles in most cases means making your ceiling more modern and attractive. Styrofoam ceiling tiles, although not the most common type of ceiling finish, are still not going to give up and have the same market share as before.
Ceiling tiles are of different types, and the characteristics of each depend only on. First of all, it is distinguished by its shape.
Styrofoam ceiling tiles can be:
- rectangular;
- square;
- diamond-shaped;
- hexagonal.
The most popular are products of a square shape, which, figuratively speaking, have become the standard of all materials for pasting the ceiling. Indeed, it so happened that the square shape is one of the most natural for a person, without distracting him from work and other activities.
It is also divided into several types according to the type of front surface:
- simple;
- laminated;
- waterproof;
- embossed;
- painted to match the texture of wood, leather or stone;
- with imitation of carving or stucco molding.
The type of surface is individual for each room and depends on its purpose. For example, in a bathroom nothing can replace waterproof tiles, otherwise moisture will seep through the surface of the ceiling and spoil the materials inside it. In the kitchen, laminated tiles will look good, which will enhance the shades of the applied paint.
And the tile also differs in the way it is made:
- by stamping (stamped);
- by sintering (injection);
- and by extrusion (extruded).
Basically, the first two types differ in their thickness. Stamped tiles have a thickness of 6-7 mm, injection tiles - from 9 to 15 mm. By the way, it is worth noting that the injection tile itself is almost waterproof. Extruded tiles are approximately the same thickness as stamped tiles, but can sometimes be even thinner. They are very reliable and varied, but their cost is poor. We will consider each of these three types in more detail below.
Production technology
Stamped tiles are cut from blocks of expanded polystyrene, and then, using a special press, acquire their final thickness and density. This simple manufacturing method does not require special costs, so the final cost of the product is low. On the other hand, it also has no special positive properties. We can say that simplicity is the main motto of stamped tiles.
Injection tiles are made in a mold of high quality raw materials from self-extinguishing polystyrene foam. Thanks to this, the granules of the material are not destroyed and remain intact. As a result, injection tiles have good sound insulation and are practically waterproof. And the fact that its thickness is greater than all other types allows you to create a variety of relief shapes and make a small strip along the edge invisible.
Extruded polystyrene ceiling tiles are made of polystyrene (not to be confused with expanded polystyrene!) By extrusion (forcing at high temperature through a forming hole) of its melt. Then it is covered with a film using a press. The extrusion process makes the material very strong and dense. It comes in a variety of colors, making it easy to match with your room's design.
Advantages and disadvantages
Now let's move on to the point that clearly shows the ratio of the positive and negative properties of the material. The pros and cons allow you to find out if it would be appropriate to cover the ceiling with foam tiles specifically in your circumstances.
Let's take a look at the positives first:
- The surface for pasting can be absolutely any. The result of the work does not depend on the type of the previous ceiling.
- Extruded tiles can be installed close to a radiator or battery, even if the latter sometimes reaches 80 degrees Celsius. Although it is unlikely that you will ever heat your home with such temperatures ...
- Used in normal conditions, the material can last for several years, or even decades.
- Styrofoam ceiling tiles cope well with noise and cold, keeping them out of the house.
- Since foam tiles are lightweight, it is not necessary to look for the highest quality and most expensive glue. This will save on the purchase of bonding materials.
- The assembly itself does not take much time, as with the use of the right tools, they are very easy to cut.
- Polyfoam is also good in terms of environmental friendliness. It does not contain toxic substances or gases.
- Compared to other finishing materials, the cost of most is small and inconsequential. And this is another factor that helps to save money.
- And finally, the last advantage of foam tiles is a good combination with interior elements.
But at the same time, polystyrene delivers a number of inconveniences that are worth paying attention to:
- The cheapest models have an unpleasant tendency to turn yellow over time. But this is easy to fix by regularly painting the surface with water-based paint.
- One of the main disadvantages of foam ceilings is vapor tightness. It is this property that creates the effect of a thermos in the apartment. Moisture will accumulate in it. If, however, vinyl wallpaper is used, then condensation will accumulate on the surfaces, and a fungus will begin to form in especially humid places, poisoning the human body. And such consequences will be difficult to minimize, simply by regularly ventilating the room.
- Although polystyrene foam is fireproof, it melts easily. Therefore, those tiles in which it is used as a base should not be placed in the immediate vicinity of a powerful light bulb. The optimal distance is 25-30 cm. As mentioned above, in other warm places, for example, near pipes and radiators, this danger does not threaten your ceiling (read: "").
- It should also be remembered that foam is a very easily traumatized material. Consider this both when transporting it and when moving other large items. It doesn't matter if the object has sharp corners or not - you can spoil the tile with a slight touch in any case.
Calculation of the amount of purchased material
Now we finally come to the practical part. We hope that the photos that will accompany the process of describing it will help you better understand the essence of the ongoing processes. If you have definitely decided on the choice of material, and you are attracted by the foam tiles for the ceiling, then you can proceed to the first step of the installation work. It consists in calculating the surface on which the tiles will be glued. The amount of purchased material and other calculations will depend on this.
First you need to measure the width and length of one room. Multiplying them, we get the area of the room. If you plan to carry out repairs in several rooms, perform the same calculations in them, and then add up all the numbers obtained. Now you need to divide the resulting number by the area of one tile of the material. It depends on the type you choose, the dimensions of which are usually indicated on the package. Now we divide the surface area of the room by the area of the sheet and round the number up. Be sure to add one tenth of it and round up again. The resulting integer will be the number of sheets required.
Adhesive selection
In order for the foam ceiling tiles to be exactly on the ceiling, and not remain lying in the corner, we need glue that can attach the material to the surface. The squares are usually glued with Moment glue. Liquid nail glue is best suited, as it is quite viscous, but hardens within 15 minutes. You should not buy Chinese glue "Dragon", as it is not viscous enough and does not adhere well. If you are not a masochist, then you will not like standing for more than an hour, holding each tile of the ceiling with outstretched arms above your head.
On average, a little less than 20 ml of glue is consumed per square. It is most profitable to buy it with a capacity of 450 ml, and then there will be enough glue not only for the ceiling, but also for other elements of the apartment.
If you have an uneven base ceiling, you shouldn't bother too much with props, spacers, etc. Of course, it is absolutely impossible to glue on such a surface, otherwise one day the fruits of your labor will begin to peel off from their intended place. But this situation can be corrected by just leveling the depressions with the help of a finishing putty solution mixed with PVA glue.
The solution is first prepared without the participation of glue: Water is gradually added to the dry putty and stirred to the desired consistency. Then, for each kilogram of putty, 200 g of glue is added. Stir again, after which we diligently eliminate all the shortcomings.
Required tools
To decorate the ceiling with foam tiles, you do not need to purchase a whole set of unique tools. Moreover, some of them are sure to be found in your home.
So, you need 7 items:
- A paint cord to help you draw the axis of the ceiling.
- The most ordinary scissors or an assembly knife, with which we will cut the sheets if necessary.
- A medium-sized spatula or their set for applying a putty solution.
- Measuring tools for sizing certain elements of the ceiling and tracing them on a sheet of foam tiles.
- A fly brush, mainly required for applying glue.
- A set of rags for wiping the glued material from excess glue.
- And finally, the pencil, beloved by all builders.
Having prepared these tools and taking the necessary materials, you most likely will not have to interrupt while working in search of something important, because everything you need will be at your fingertips. But still, it will not be superfluous for someone from friends or family to be nearby as an assistant.
How to glue ceiling tiles, in detail on the video:
Ceiling surface preparation
Foam ceiling tiles can be glued to any surface that is free of debris and old finishes. Cleaning must be done thoroughly so that later the glue can firmly adhere to the substrate. But before performing the next step of the work, it is also necessary to open the surface with a deep penetration primer to protect against the side effects of the glue. In doing so, pay particular attention to the protrusions and depressions that interfere with the normal fixation of the ceiling.
Ceiling marking for sheets of foam tiles
For this step, we need a scribe cord. Its device is very simple - it is an ordinary rope, which is tinted with powder dye. These materials are sold at a hardware store or market.
Before marking, decide how the tiles will be located on the ceiling: in longitudinal rows or diagonal. If you do not want to complicate the installation process, then the longitudinal arrangement is quite suitable, and if you desperately need to visually expand the room, then you should sacrifice your convenience during work for a better appearance later.
The initial ceiling marking should be done with the input of your friend or family member. The marking cord must be pulled from one corner of the ceiling to the one that lies opposite, that is, draw a diagonal. This should be done with a little effort, and after pulling it back slightly from the ceiling and release. Do the same for the other two corners. After drawing both diagonals, find their intersection point, which will show the center of your ceiling.
After that, at a certain equal distance from the center, leave marks along the diagonals of the ceiling. After that, connect them with lines using a marking cord. After this operation, a square or rectangle should be formed. Opposite sides should not differ by more than 5 millimeters, otherwise you will have to re-mark and connect them.
If everything went well, then use a tape measure to find the middle of the sides and use a marking cord to make the axes along which the tiles will be glued. All of these steps are applicable for longitudinal positioning of sheets.
Now let's talk about diagonal markings. The axes along which it is necessary to glue the tiles must be placed at right angles to each other and pass from one corner to another (if the room is rectangular, but not square, then the axis will not exactly fall into the second corner, it will intersect one of the sides). If the 90-degree angle is not clear, then in the midst of work, a malfunction can occur, as a result of which all work will go to waste.
Glue application
Depending on the glue used, the application may vary, but the general principles remain the same. For example, glue is applied either dotted or in a solid line to small projections on the inside of the product. If there are none, then it is applied in the corners and in the center.
Putty or glue is best applied directly to the tiles so as not to overlap the ceiling markings. This is best done with a tiling comb. If there are irregularities up to a centimeter on the surface, use a comb with a large tooth from 11 millimeters. In the event that you see that the applied glue will not be enough, you can gently smear the ceiling. This must be done in such a way that the drawn axes are not erased, and the direction of spreading the glue on the ceiling and on the tile is opposite. For example, if you smeared glue on the tile towards the door, then on the ceiling you need to spread it in the direction away from the door.
Special glue, such as ELTITAN, must be glued differently. Since it is necessary to wait 15-20 minutes before laying, you can save your own time if you apply glue to a whole batch of tiles at once - 3-5 at a time.
How to glue the ceiling tile: installation features "). Check the alignment of the axes and that the corner of the sheet is in the center. It is by this corner that you will orient yourself when gluing the remaining sheets. In the center of the room there should be a joint of four sheets, and the next should be glued parallel to the previous ones. ...
The last pieces to stick may not fit into the remaining space, so don't be afraid to cut them. But do it carefully, measuring the length to the nearest centimeter. The same should be done in the event that it is necessary to cut out a place for any fasteners that crash into the base ceiling. But do not forget that in this case it will be more difficult to determine the correct position of the sheet, so pay your attention to this part of the work. During gluing, the tiles should be firmly pressed against the ceiling, although not to the extent that dents remain.
But don't glue all the tiles at once. It is advisable to remove the remnants of the glue after each glued batch, the dimensions of which you determined earlier, so that it does not dry out. The gap between the wall and the glued tiles should be covered with a skirting board.
Sealing seams between sheets
In order to avoid accidental failures due to some factory errors in dimensions, the sheets must be placed at a distance of 1-2 mm from each other. Then it is done with ordinary putty or sealant. After that, remove excess residues and paint the surface with a water-based emulsion.
Installation of a frieze
The final stage of work on your ceiling will be the installation of a frieze. There are an unimaginable number of them - in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors and designs. Choose an option for yourself according to the size of the room and its design. It is not necessary that in different rooms with the same tiles there are the same friezes. Create variety and be more unique!
Although it is possible to apply the skirting boards before starting work, it will be much easier for you to apply them after installing the tiles. Then you do not have to adjust each sheet with millimeter precision and be afraid to make a mistake by a hundredth of a degree. The skirting board should be the element that will save you if something goes wrong.
Therefore, you should not be panicky to be afraid of mistakes. Panic can only hurt. Try to do your job efficiently and know that any flaw can be eliminated, but it all depends on what cost it can be done. Be successful and all the best to you!
Today, there are many options for finishing the ceiling covering - a variety of tension and suspended structures, painting, someone generally conservatively prefers wallpaper. However, the most popular is the foam ceiling. Ceiling tiles have become widespread due to their obvious advantages - they are inexpensive, ceiling decoration with its help is possible with your own hands, and the building materials market is replete with a variety of styrofoam-based design solutions. In this article, we will try to review the strengths and weaknesses of this material, and also tell you how to install a ceiling made of foam plates in your apartment.
Foam tiles are divided into many types according to various criteria. For example, the shape of the tiles can be rectangular panels, as well as their square, diamond-shaped or hexagonal variations. The front surface of the material can be laminated or not, smooth or embossed. The front side can be painted to match various natural materials - wood, stone, etc. Depending on the room in which it is planned to finish the ceiling with foam tiles, additional requirements may be imposed on the material, for example, waterproof tiles should be used in the bathroom.
Another criterion is the manufacturing method. There is an injection tile, it is produced by casting and sintering raw materials in a mold, its thickness is 9-14 mm. Pressed tiles, as you might guess, are obtained by stamping with a press, the thickness ranges from 6 to 7 mm. And the last, extruded tile, from extruded strip, has standard dimensions and is covered with film or painted. A significant advantage of all these types of foam tiles is their simplicity. If the tile has a laminated coating, it is enough to wipe it with a damp cloth; in the absence of such a coating, a dry cloth or a vacuum cleaner will do.
Advantages and disadvantages
This material could not have won its popularity without a huge number of advantages over competitors, among which we highlight the following features of foam:
- Foam tiles are easy to use - they can be glued to almost any substrate, and concrete and hardwood floors work equally well.
- Pasting the ceiling with foam tiles is also a good option because the material has excellent heat resistance and pipes that conduct heat do not pose a threat to the durability of the material.
- A Styrofoam ceiling is incredibly durable and can last for decades in the absence of physical damage.
- Polyfoam is used in the repair of many premises due to its highest sound and heat insulating properties.
- The material is light, which means that you will not have a difficult question of how to glue these products - inexpensive glue without high strength indicators will do.
- Installation is simple and convenient, foam panels can be easily cut and adjusted to the desired size.
- Polyfoam is an environmentally friendly material.
- The price, both for the material itself, and for its installation, which can be done with your own hands, is very low, and therefore this is one of the most budgetary finishing options.
- Styrofoam has a high potential for decorating a room - there are not many alternative finishing methods that are ready to boast an equally wide range of products of all colors, shapes and textures.
Before running to the store, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the shortcomings, which, unfortunately, are also not few. Although polystyrene is an economical option, we do not recommend skimping at all when choosing it: cheap tiles can ruin the entire repair after a short time - they can turn yellow in the sun, be exposed to moisture, and so on. On the other hand, the tiles can always be painted with a water emulsion and give it its original appearance, as well as protect it from dampness.
The main disadvantage of ceilings made of foam tiles is vapor permeability, the surface covered with such a material stops breathing, in especially advanced cases, the appearance of a fungus is possible, which will bring a lot of inconvenience. Another nuance - although the foam is extremely difficult to set fire to, it melts excellently, and therefore contact with lighting devices should not be allowed. We have already mentioned the physical fragility, so try to transport the material as carefully as possible, and in the room do not get too carried away with darts or opening champagne with a cork soaring upward. Well, the next drawback from the texture of the tiles is a large number of seams, which can spoil the impression of the integrity of the ceiling covering.
Work technology
Material calculation
Estimating the required amount of material in the case of tiles is quite trivial. First, you need to calculate the ceiling area of the room in which the repair is being done. After multiplying, for example, the length of 5 meters and the width of 3 meters, you get an area of 15 square meters, we calculate the number of tiles required based on the fact that four tiles with dimensions of 50x50 centimeters are needed to form one square meter. Having learned that we need 60 polystyrene plates, we add another ten percent to this number, i.e. 6 slabs, which are designed to eliminate various errors in calculations or to help cope with non-standard dimensions of the room by cutting off these additional slabs.
On the other hand, of course, you can always buy additional material if you didn’t have enough of it, but the tile is inexpensive and it’s better to save time by purchasing a little more than you need.
Required tool
The process of installing a foam ceiling with your own hands is so simple that you hardly need to run to a building materials store for additional tools. Prepare in advance:
- Painting cord, with which you draw the axis of the ceiling.
- A cutting tool such as scissors or a knife.
- Serrated spatula for applying glue.
- Roller and paint tray - if you need to prime the ceiling before installing the tiles.
- Every little thing in the form of tape measures and rulers for measuring distances, rags for wiping the surface and removing excess glue, and so on.
Preparatory work
Before answering the question of how to glue the foam to the ceiling, it is worth preparing the ceiling itself. First you need to clean its surface and carefully remove the previous finish, various debris and accumulations of dirt.
After that, especially if the ceiling area is not too flat, you should resort to priming. The composition of the primer will prevent the subsequent penetration of various microorganisms into the foam cavity, and the adhesion of the tile and the base will increase.
After the surface is ready, it should be marked. For this we need a paint cord. The markings can be done both longitudinally and diagonally. Diagonals can be obtained by pulling a cord from one corner of the room to the opposite, and repeating this procedure for the other pair of corners. Having received the intersection of the diagonals, you should find the centers of each of the walls, and then look for the centers of the segments equal to the size of the side of the tile.
Styrofoam ceiling finishing process
First you need to figure out the use of glue. It can be applied to the tiles in full or dotted on the protrusions on the product. The glue should be applied with a comb, and in the case of large differences in the height of the ceiling, we also recommend applying the glue to the ceiling itself.
There are types of glue, for example, ELTITAN, which adheres better by steeping on the tile for 10-15 minutes, therefore carefully read the instructions for the adhesive you have chosen.
The very process of gluing the ceiling with foam tiles should start from the center of the room, otherwise there is a possibility of failure of the joints between the tiles.
Do not forget to first turn off the power, just in case, and also use gloves so as not to stain the foam panels. If it is planned to place a lighting device at the intersection of the diagonals, then the corners of the central tiles should be cut off. Press the tiles tightly, but do not use excessive force - the material is fragile and can be damaged.
In the future, it is necessary to cover the entire ceiling surface with parallel rows of plates. We do not recommend glueing the entire surface as quickly as possible, it is better to seal the seams after installing a small area and remove excess glue, and only after that proceed to the next batch.