Residents of multi-apartment buildings do not have to worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste, everything is done by housing and communal services for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs, it perfectly performs the function of sanitary cleaning. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.
Choosing the location of the cesspool
There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private house. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site, the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:
- The cesspool should be located at a distance of at least a dozen meters from the living quarters;
- From the cesspool to the fence should be more than a meter;
- When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well should be at a distance of at least 30 meters.
The simplest cheap options
The predecessor of the cesspool was an ordinary pit dug in the soil, in which the walls were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, cisterns, and other old containers in the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partial waste treatment are installed only when the daily volume is not more than one cubic meter.
If the owner of a private house does not want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. It is only necessary to put them in a dug hollow, connecting them with bolts. Then the hollow is sprinkled with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.
Popular types of structures
According to the characteristic differences in the design of the pit for biowaste, they are divided into absorbing and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.
Absorption tanks (bottomless)
A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom, because of this, the liquid, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, is sent to the soil. Absorbing capacity is the most inexpensive and easy to arrange. Due to the partial infiltration of treated effluents into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.
The absorbing type is selected if there is no need to divert a lot of wastewater. Large volumes of soil will not be able to accept and process. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because the waste, getting into the soil, will pollute it.
sealed containers
They are closed waterproof concrete / brick / gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make an airtight type cesspool, you will be provided with an absolute absence of odors characteristic of the toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the vacuum cleaners. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).
The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is the installation of a plastic tank purchased from a store. It does not need to be sealed, but it will be necessary to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and reinforce the walls with reinforcement.
Simple homemade cleaning structures
These are designs that not only perform deep cleansing, but also turn wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. Often they are a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete waste processing takes place.
You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you do not need a solid concrete foundation, a dense sand cushion with gravel thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as one decimeter screed is enough.
- To increase the capacity of the reservoir, the sides of the tires must be cut;
- A vertical concrete pipe with a diameter of about a couple of times smaller than that of tires is placed in a well made of tires. The upper cut of the pipe is a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
- The bottom of the pipe is poured with concrete to form a solid cylinder.
From above it will be necessary to make holes for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete must be sealed.
How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings
- It is necessary to dig a mine-type hollow, its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger than the diameter of the rings. You will need three rings;
- A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future basis for the rings;
- In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid can leave the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
- The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will become difficult to pull the sediment out of the cesspool;
- About a meter, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, gravel and gravel mixed with soil;
- The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
- At the end, a plate with a pair of holes is placed. One is for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
- To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the well-filterer a little higher than the purification tank.
Installation of a sealed structure
The method of construction is similar, but it is not necessary to make infiltration holes, it is necessary to completely concrete the bottom. Reinforcement of the lower platform made of concrete is recommended. So that the reinforcement does not get stuck in concrete, it must be slightly raised and fixed on pegs.
Walls should be sealed. Bitumen is considered an inexpensive internal insulator, clay is considered an external one. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.
Brick laying takes much longer than concrete rings.. At the bottom, a concrete screed is made, bricks are laid in a circle / square. Before proceeding with laying, you need to wait a week after creating a concrete platform.
The sewerage pipeline must be slightly tilted in order to ensure the spontaneous departure of wastewater.
Toilet bin
Those who want to build a toilet also need to know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up for devastation. The cesspool is laid out with bricks or poured with concrete.
The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is covered with a sand-gravel mixture, gravel.
Other dimensions are set locally. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the latrine will do.
As a result, the question of where to put the waste becomes acute. The simplest option is to equip a cesspool, even the person who has never done such work before can cope with this task. Therefore, it is necessary to think in advance about how to properly make a sewer, what materials it is better to use for this, and take into account all other nuances of this matter.
First of all, you need to find a good place where you can equip a cesspool in a private house. You also need to familiarize yourself with the main types of such sewers and find out which one is best for your site.
Choosing a place for a cesspool
First of all, you need to choose a site where the cesspool system will be made, there are two options:
- Directly on the site, which is adjacent to the dwelling or cottage.
- Arrangement of a pit at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a private house and other buildings, as well as from neighboring houses.
Such a distance requirement is not accidental, the fact is that with a closer construction of a cesspool system without pumping out, possible damage to the foundation, as well as flooding of buildings.
There are other nuances to consider:
- The distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated, it must be at least 1 meter;
- The depth of the pit should be less than 3 meters. Also, it is necessary to take into account the levels of groundwater in the area;
- There must be a distance of at least 25 meters from the cesspool to the drinking wells.
The latter requirement also largely depends on the type of soil on the site. If it is clayey, then the minimum distance to drinking sources is 20 meters, if it is loamy - 30 meters, and if the soil is sandy, this distance should be at least 50 meters.
Varieties of cesspools
Today, all cesspools are divided into three types:
- Absorbing (pits that have no bottom).
- Sealed.
- Septic tanks.
The simplest option would be to equip a storage pit that has no bottom. This species has its positive aspects. First of all, such a tank does not need very frequent pumping. Also, these pits are small, so a minimum of free space and money is spent on arrangement.
But this species also has disadvantages, among which the main one is the ingress of waste into the soil, which is harmful to the environment. In addition, such a pit will not be able to cope with a large number of drains, so it is mainly equipped in the country, where people do not live for a whole year.
Sealed tanks are considered cleaner, more environmentally friendly and more comfortable to use. The main disadvantage of this design is the complexity of care. The owners have to constantly use the services of sewers to pump out wastewater. With each year of use, you will have to call specialists more and more often.
If the volume of effluents in the house is large enough, then you will also have to call the sewers more often, because the water is pumped out of the tank, and the sludge remains at the bottom. This will entail great inconvenience and waste of money.
Experts advise equipping a sealed tank of the same volume as the tank of a sewage truck. This will avoid overfilling the pit until the next pumping of wastewater.
The most effective and reliable option is a septic tank, which you can also do yourself. This version of the cesspool performs not only the functions of accumulation, but also waste treatment.
You can make both single-chamber and multi-chamber systems yourself. The easiest way to equip and apply single-chamber structures. It will be a kind of well, at the bottom of which there is a thick layer of rubble or broken brick, these materials perform the function of filtering.
This means that rough wastewater treatment takes place, after which the liquid passes into the soil, where, thanks to bacteria, it is also cleaned and clarified. As a result, the storage tank does not fill up so quickly, and a little pollution gets into the soil.
The most effective option is multi-chamber septic tanks, they purify the water so much that it can then be used for watering beds or other similar tasks. But the disadvantage is the high cost of arranging such a treatment system.
Do-it-yourself cesspool arrangement
In order to choose the right type of cesspool used in a suburban area, you need to accurately determine the location, calculate the daily amount of drains and pay attention to your financial capabilities:
- If every day the amount of drains does not exceed 1 cubic meter, then the best option would be to build a simple pit without a bottom and without the need for regular pumping. In such a reservoir, the effluent partially goes into the soil, where it is cleaned by anaerobic bacteria.
Most rural and country toilets are made according to this principle;
- If the number of daily drains exceeds 1 cubic meter, then you can forget about options without pumping out, you will have to equip a hermetic structure and regularly use the services of sewers.
The fact is that bottomless structures provide for the ingress of waste into the soil, where special bacteria perform cleaning functions. But we must understand that the possibilities of these bacteria are not unlimited.
With a large number of effluents, microorganisms simply do not cope with their task. In such a situation, environmental pollution will begin, and waste can also enter the aquifers of the soil, and pollute drinking water sources. If the number of drains is very large, then there will be great costs for sewers, in which case it is better to purchase or make a multi-chamber septic tank yourself.
Construction of a simple cesspool
If the number of drains is small, then it is better not to be smart, such a cesspool is made quite simply:
- First you need to dig a hole, for this it is not necessary to use special equipment, an ordinary shovel is enough, because the depth will be about 2 meters, the same will be wide, but 3 meters long.
- After that, it is necessary to lay the walls of the earth using special materials (concrete rings, car tires, etc.).
- At the bottom of the pit it is necessary to pour a layer of rubble.
- The final stage in the arrangement of the cesspool system will be the installation of a protective ceiling and cover.
Such a simple version of the cesspool has the following positive aspects:
- You can equip the system very quickly and simply without outside help;
- Materials for this type of cesspool system are inexpensive;
- Ease of operation;
- Does not require frequent pumping of wastewater.
True, there are also negative points:
- For the arrangement of such a system, it is necessary that the groundwater level be below the level of the sewage system;
- The operation of this system is advisable if the amount of wastewater does not exceed 1 cubic meter per day;
- The pit is filled with sediment;
- There are unpleasant odors.
Scheme
Today, there are many options for simple cesspools that you can make yourself. Conventionally, such pits are divided into temporary and permanent, but the main criterion for classification is the material from which the place for drains is made.
Car tires
If a cesspool is needed for a toilet in the country, and there is no desire to spend a lot of money on it, then old car tires can be usefully attached. It is quite simple to build a pit from tires, everything is done very quickly, and the cost of such a design will turn out to be small.
First you need to dig a pit, and on its bottom, one on top of the other, you need to put tires. At the very bottom there should be a layer of rubble. Joints between rubber tires are best treated with clay to seal.
The advantages of such a scheme:
- If necessary, the design is easy to restore;
- Long service life;
- Low cost of materials, quick and easy construction.
Negative sides:
- Over time, such material begins to rot;
- If the load on the cesspool is too large, then this will lead to pollution;
- The cesspool system quickly silts up, so periodic pumping is still needed.
concrete rings
This option also allows you to deal with sewer problems quickly and efficiently. In appearance, such a pit will resemble a well. Rings, like tires in the previous scheme, are installed one on top of the other. The joints between the concrete rings, experts advise to close up with a cement screed.
If we recall the classification, then in terms of its type, the construction of concrete rings is more like sealed cesspool systems. Therefore, there is a need to regularly call vacuum trucks. But also from concrete rings, you can equip a homemade septic tank.
Main advantages:
- Covering with a hatch is very easy to do;
- The cesspool will work for several decades;
- You can do everything yourself, without masters;
- Low cost of materials.
Main cons:
- Unpleasant odors may come out of the ventilation duct;
- Pit work needs regular pumping;
- Installing the rings in the pit without special equipment is quite difficult.
Brick
Many experts call brick the best material for building cesspools, it is ideal for arranging in a toilet or for removing drains from a sauna.
Advantages of brick systems:
- Every owner of the house can handle the masonry, so the construction of the pit will not bring problems;
- The design does not harm the environment and does not pollute the soil.
Negative sides:
- To prevent silting of the system, it is necessary to constantly use the services of sewers;
- Under such working conditions, the brick quickly collapses, so the service life of the cesspool rarely exceeds 20 years;
- Unpleasant odors may occur. But this drawback can be eliminated by adding special bacteria that speed up the process of waste decomposition.
Arrangement of a cesspool system made of bricks
The scheme of work is as follows:
The initial stage of the work will be the selection of a site for a pit. At the same time, it is necessary to comply with all the recommendations of specialists, and do everything so that the use of the pit is convenient.
After that, you need to choose one of the design options. They are distinguished by their shape, there are rectangular, round and square types. Next, the required volume is calculated, and you can begin to dig a hole for the cesspool system.
In the traditional version, it is advised to tilt in the direction where the hatch will be located, sand should be poured onto the bottom of the pit and poured with cement. You can also use concrete slabs. But if you need a pit without pumping out, then crushed stone must be poured to the bottom.
After that, the laying of the walls is done. Masters believe that the optimal thickness will be a size of 30 centimeters. They also advise masonry in a chess way, using halves of bricks. In some situations, a quarter of a brick is also used for masonry.
When the walls are already standing, they must be covered with bituminous mastic or a clay castle should be made for better sealing. If necessary, the inner surface can be plastered.
Cesspool from a barrel
This version of the cesspool can be made independently, it does not need regular pumping. But it is worth noting that the cesspool system from the barrel can only work with a small amount of wastewater (up to 1 cubic meter per day).
Step-by-step arrangement:
- First of all, you need to prepare a barrel with a volume of 200 liters. It is better to use those materials that are not afraid of rust. Holes must be made in the walls of the container, they will perform the function of drainage. It is necessary to make holes according to the chess system, for this you can use a drill or a grinder. The distance between the holes should be 15-20 centimeters.
- We tightly attach the pipe to the bottom of the tank, it will help install the drain pipe. To make the design really tight, it is better to use silicone materials. The place where the pipe is installed should also be treated with mastic.
- The container must be wrapped with geotextile and secured with twine. This will help protect the cesspool from soil and other solid elements getting inside, but at the same time will not harm the drainage process.
Installing a cesspool from a barrel is done like this:
- First, a trench is dug and a sewer pipeline is laid (necessarily with a slope);
- Next, you need to dig a hole, which in size will slightly exceed the size of the barrel;
- A layer of gravel or gravel is poured into the bottom of the pit (about 20-25 centimeters);
- A ready-made barrel is installed on this pillow and a drain pipe is attached;
- The place that remains between the walls of the pit and the barrel must also be filled with gravel;
- At the end, the sewer pipe must be connected to the pipe.
Using this method, you can equip a drain pit for different purposes. In particular, it is suitable for draining drains from a bath or sauna, as well as for a toilet.
Drainage pit made of concrete
Concrete is a material that is known for its strength and ability to work in aggressive conditions. Therefore, for the arrangement of the cesspool system, it is also used quite often. You can make a hole from such material as follows:
- First you need to determine the volume of the system;
- After that, dig a hole, taking into account the desired dimensions;
- Formwork is mounted along the perimeter of the pit and filled with concrete mortar;
- It is advised to cover the outer part of the walls with bitumen, this will provide waterproofing;
- Drainage material is poured at the bottom of the pit (you can use gravel, gravel or even broken brick);
- A roofing material or film (for waterproofing) is laid on the walls of the prepared pit. In addition, it is necessary to install a ceiling with a hatch and make a hole for connecting a sewer pipe;
- The final stage of the work will be the connection to the cesspool of the sewer pipe.
This technology is also considered universal, it is suitable for both baths and toilets.
Video
Unfortunately, not everywhere there is a centralized sewage system and people are forced to equip street toilets on their plots.
In the warm season it is not difficult to go outside, but in the cold season you don’t want to go out into the cold once again.
And so many people are thinking about equipment in the area of the drain pit. Consider the topic of a drain pit in a private house in this article.
To ensure the arrangement of the drain pit, it is better to hire professional workers, but you can equip it yourself.
Volume calculation
Equipping a drain pit is considered a cheap and easy way to provide for private homes.
To make a calculation of the required volume of the drain pit, it is necessary to multiply the number of people who will live in the house by 1.2 m3. Let's give an example: if there are five people in your family, then the volume of the drain pit will be at least two and a half meters cubed.
Types and purpose
Drainage pits are of different types:
- Fecal. The pit, the name of which speaks for itself, that is, this pit is designed to drain water from the toilet or toilet, which is located on the site.
- Waste. It is intended for, that is, drains from baths, showers, washbasins.
- Combined. The pit is designed to drain both fecal matter and household water.
In rural areas, it is better to equip two pits: fecal and waste.
How to equip a drain pit in a private house
We determine the dimensions
Depth
First, find out the level of groundwater in your area. You can check the level yourself, and you can check it with the help of a well, if it is located nearby.
If groundwater is at a depth of 6-8 meters, then a pit for draining waste must be made at a level of 2-2.5 meters.
Length Width
In the event that groundwater is close to the surface, a plastic container should not be placed underground. In this case, a sealed concrete well is made and a plastic container is placed in it, but this method will cost more.
In order for the plastic pit to work well for a long time, the pit under it must be dug so that there is a distance of 30 cm from the walls to the container.
The container is installed strictly horizontally. It is important that the tank has a vent pipe, otherwise there is a danger of the tank exploding, as the decomposition of organic waste releases methane gas.
A drain pit has its positive and negative qualities, but its presence takes country life and life in a private house to another level. For this reason, people are increasingly making cesspools of various designs on their plots.
We wish you good luck in your endeavors!
If there is no centralized sewage nearby, then as an effective solution to the problem, we suggest that you learn how to make a cesspool with your own hands.
In any country house or country house, where there is a toilet and hot and cold water supply, there is a need to collect and dispose of sewage. And below we will consider the most important points in the arrangement of the cesspool:
| Choosing a place for a cesspool in a private house. | |
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Construction of different types of cesspools with their own hands. |
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What materials can be useful in the work. |
A cesspool is the easiest sewage option in a private house or country house, which you can implement with your own hands.
Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you entered from our Remontik website.
Where should a cesspool be located in a private house?
First of all, you must choose a place for a cesspool, while being guided by the following requirements:
- the pit should be located on the territory adjacent to the cottage or private house;
- it is allowed to arrange a cesspool no closer than 10 m from the foundation of the house and other structures on the site and to structures located on neighboring sites.
Attention! This requirement, first of all, is explained by the fact that with a close location of the cesspool, the foundation of nearby buildings and structures may collapse and they will be flooded:
- the distance from the cesspool to the fence is regulated and must be at least one meter;
- the depth in no case should be more than 3 meters (when choosing it, you must take into account the depth of groundwater);
- the pit should be located at a certain distance from drinking wells (25 meters).
This distance directly depends on the type of soil on the land:
- With sandy and sandy soil - the cesspool cannot be located closer than 50 meters from the well.
- With the predominance of clay soil - not less than 20 meters.
- With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters.
How to make a cesspool with your own hands? Main types
To date, two options for arranging a cesspool are offered:
- sealed cesspool;
- an ordinary cesspool that does not have a bottom (drainage).
In this type of drainage pit, effluents go into the ground, where they are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria. A striking example of such a cesspool would be an ordinary village toilet.
- With a daily large volume of wastewater (more than 1 m 3), you will need a sealed pit, which needs to be pumped out from time to time.
This requirement is directly related to the fact that the presence of the bottom in the cesspool, the water goes into the ground and its purification is carried out by microorganisms that live in the thickness of the soil. However, their possibilities during processing are limited.
With large volumes of wastewater, microorganisms cannot cope with their purification. In this case, wastewater will pollute the adjacent soil and it is possible that they will enter the water-bearing layers of the soil with further contamination of drinking water.
If it is necessary to dispose of a large volume of wastewater, you can think about installing a septic tank with filtration fields.
How to make a regular cesspool with your own hands
A simple cesspool is very easy to do:
- A hole is dug 2 m wide, up to 2 m deep and 2.3-3 m long.
- The walls of the soil are laid or strengthened.
- A layer of gravel is laid at the bottom.
- A protective cover with a hatch is installed on top.
The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:
- simple and fast installation;
- low cost of operation and construction;
- simplicity and ease of use.
Some disadvantages of the drainage pit:
- unsuitable for the use of large volumes of wastewater;
- environmentally hazardous;
- spreads an unpleasant odor;
- possible unscheduled overflow due to ingress of rain or melt water;
- the groundwater level may be below the level of the cesspool.
How to make an airtight cesspool with your own hands
A sealed storage tank (cesspool) is a sealed container where wastewater flows through pipes. Wastewater, as the tank is filled, must be pumped out with a sewage machine.
The main advantages of a sealed pit:
- does not depend on the level of groundwater;
- environmentally friendly, since wastewater does not enter the environment;
- the location of the pit does not depend on the types of soil on the land.
Main disadvantages:
- high construction cost;
- monthly operating costs (you have to regularly call a sewage truck, on average 2-4 times a month);
- smell is possible if the drive is made in the form of a well.
Calculation of the size of the cesspool
V holes \u003d number of days x number of people x V people x 0.001, where:
V pits - the working volume of the cesspool, calculated in cubic meters;
the number of days - the frequency of calling a sewage machine to clean the pit;
V people - the norm of water for one person per day, measured in liters. Accepted 100-200 liters per person.
Here is an example of a calculation:A family of 5 lives in the house, and you are going to order a cesspool truck once every two weeks. We accept V people - 150 liters per person per day.
As a result, the required volume of the drain pit:
V pits \u003d 14x5x150x 0.001 \u003d 10500 liters, or 10.5 m 3.
What materials can be used for a cesspool
Consider the different options and types of cesspool designs that you can build with your own hands. Immediately it should be said that they are all divided into permanent and temporary.
- Tires.
If you need a toilet pit latrine at a minimal cost, we recommend building it yourself using old car tires.
This is a quick and cheap option for building a drain pit. It has a simple design. First, a pit is prepared, where the tires are laid (one on top of the other). Crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, if necessary, additional sealing of tires with a clay lock can be made.
Advantages:
- simplicity, low cost and fast construction speed;
- durability;
- easily restored if necessary.
Disadvantages:
- tires are rotting;
- fast filling with irregular cleaning, as a result of which you will lose useful volume;
- with a large load on the pit, it negatively affects the environment.
- concrete rings.
We suggest considering the possibility of building a cesspool using concrete rings.
This is another good option for quickly building a cesspool. According to the device, it resembles a well. Concrete rings are stacked on top of each other. If desired, the joints between the rings are sealed with a concrete screed.
According to the principle of operation, a pit made of concrete rings is more likely to be an airtight type of cesspool, so it must be emptied in a timely manner. Although it is possible to build a septic tank from concrete rings.
Advantages:
- relatively low cost;
- durability;
- ease of construction of a protective cover with a hatch;
- the possibility of building a cesspool with your own hands.
Disadvantages:
- the need for regular emptying;
- high labor intensity of work;
- the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipe.
- Brick.
A drain pit made of bricks is a good and optimal solution if you need a drain pit for a bath or a pit for a toilet.
Advantages:
- ease of construction - any summer resident will be able to cope with brickwork;
- economic security - the contents of the pit imply regular removal by a sewage truck or can be cleaned on the spot.
Disadvantages:
- periodically there is an unpleasant smell (you can cope with this problem by regularly cleaning the drive, and by using drugs that accelerate the decomposition of biological waste);
- a short service life (about 15 years), as a result of the degradation of brickwork in adverse conditions of the pit;
- flooding (flooding can be eliminated by regularly pumping out the liquid collected in the storage tank).
How to make a cesspool out of bricks with your own hands: a description of the main steps
First of all, decide where the cesspool will be located, taking into account compliance with all requirements and ease of use.
Then decide on the design. A brick cesspool, depending on its purpose, may have a square, round or rectangular masonry.
We calculate the volume, determine the dimensions and prepare the pit.
In the case of a rectangular pit, we perform a bottom slope towards the location of the hatch. We lay a sand cushion 10-15 cm thick at the bottom, after which we fill it with concrete mortar. You can also use a ready-made concrete slab of the required size. A cement mortar screed is made from above.
We carry out the laying of walls, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. It is best to lay the walls in half-brick in a checkerboard pattern. Quarter-brick laying is also acceptable.
Once the walls are ready, you need to build a clay castle of the outer part or cover them with bituminous mastic for a more reliable seal.
Plastering the inner surface (if necessary). For plaster, you can use a solution of sand and cement in a ratio of 2 to 1.
Cover and sunroof installation. When the base of the pit is ready, we install its overlap with a hatch. It should be no less than half a meter to cover the pit from different sides.
In the role of overlap, it can use densely packed logs or reinforced concrete slabs. When laying the floor, it is necessary to provide in advance a place for a hatch, the diameter of which should be 0.7 m.
On top of the coating, waterproofing is made of polyethylene film or roofing felt. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil, 40 cm thick.
Attention! In order to prevent the spread of smell from the pit, as well as its freezing, the hatch is made double. The top cover should be level with the ground, and the other at the level of the ceiling. You can fill the space between the covers with heat-insulating material (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).
- Barrel.
A drain pit from a barrel is a great option for arranging a sewer with your own hands. It can provide natural wastewater treatment in case of small runoff volumes (up to 1 m3).
Preparing a barrel for a drain pit:- Take a 200 liter barrel made of non-corrosive material, make the side walls in it in a checkerboard pattern with a drill or a grinder. These will be the drainage holes. They are recommended to be done in increments of 10 cm.
- We prepare and attach a pipe to the bottom of the barrel to fix the drain pipe. To ensure a high seal, use silicone sealants. We cover the connection point of the pipe with bituminous mastic.
- We wrap the barrel from different sides with geotextile and fix it with a non-heating twine. This is necessary to ensure high-quality protection of the barrel from the penetration of foreign particles and soil into its container while maintaining drainage efficiency.
Preparation of a pit for a barrel and installation of a sewerage system:
- dig a trench and lay sewer pipes there with a slope;
In most cases, sewerage in the country is not provided. Instead, a cesspool is used. There are quite a few options for its construction, and each has both its advantages and disadvantages. Next, we will consider in detail the typical designs of cesspools and analyze the methods of their installation.
What is a drain pit and why is it needed
A drain pit, or as it is also called a cesspool, is necessary for private houses that do not have a direct sewer supply. The right drain pit recycles waste, allowing some substances after processing to soak into the ground without harm to it.
The popularity of this type of treatment plant is due to the ease of installation and the speed of work. One person without assistants is able to complete all the work within 3-5 days, depending on the type of construction.
On the other hand, there are certain difficulties associated with the further operation of the cesspool. First of all, this concerns the issue of pumping sewage. Equally important is the correctly selected volume of the pit.
Drainage pit device
The simplest designs that are most often found in rural houses and simple summer cottages are digging into the ground an old barrel or tank that has served its time. Such a design will allow for the collection and partial filtration of wastewater, provided that their daily amount does not exceed 1 m³. Such schemes have not received approval from the sanitary services, as they can harm the environment.
The simplest drain pit in a private house is a simple design. Through the sewer pipe, although direct flow is often encountered, sewage enters a container, the bottom of which is covered with silt. The drain pit should be equipped with a gas outlet pipe through which methane generated during waste processing will go outside.
Such a system is completely unsuitable for those houses in which permanent residence is planned. Taking into account the fact that the average daily water consumption for a family of four is up to 1 cubic meter, this leads to the need for frequent cleaning of the cesspool, and, accordingly, to financial costs. Previously, a ubiquitous method of removing sewage into the soil with their subsequent natural filtration was widespread, but in the current realities, this method, for obvious reasons, is prohibited by the sanitary service.
However, such a design is quite common, and will not have any special alternatives for suburban areas with infrequent attendance. It is easy to equip it on your own, but you need to consider the following points:
- The walls of the pit will require strengthening, as the water will gradually collapse the structure. To prevent this, they install a tank, or they build walls of brickwork or concrete rings.
- The volume of the cesspool should be at least three cubic meters. The correct calculation is made taking into account the fact that each person will need at least one cubic meter of space.
- Installed ventilation will increase the rate of waste recycling.
- If an overflow pit is being equipped, then it practically does not need to be cleaned, since its design assumes the presence of several chambers for waste processing. In this case, sewage enters the first chamber, in which they accumulate. After the level of sewage reaches the overflow partition, they will flow into the second pit and there they will already be absorbed into the ground. The solid waste remains in the first pit and is processed by the bacteria.
Types of drain holes
According to the type of execution, cesspools are divided into:
- concrete storage,
- brick,
- with a receiving container
- temporary
- with timber formwork,
- without a bottom, with the output of waste moisture directly into the ground.
We make a drain hole from concrete
It is a pre-fabricated solution for receiving sewage and has the following advantages:
- Construction speed. In fact, with a set of factory-made concrete rings, such a structure is built in one day. There is only one drawback - you will need a crane or an excavator to work.
- Reliability and durability of concrete.
- Minimum installation complexity.
Such a structure is being erected quickly:
- First, a hole of the planned depth is dug.
- The site is then levelled.
- Using a crane, the first ring is installed.
- The soil from under the ring is evenly removed, while exposing signal supports that prevent the structure from skewing.
- After the second ring was installed on the first ring, they are fastened together with metal brackets.
The installation is continued in the same way to the planned depth.
When all the rings have been placed, a concrete floor is installed with the help of a crane with holes made in it for the hatch and the ventilation pipe. The finished structure should rise above the ground at a level of at least 30 cm.
To provide it with better tightness, all seams and the junction with the sewer pipe are carefully sealed with bituminous mastic.
The problem of the hermetic design will be its rapid filling, and the need for frequent calls for sewage services, which will pump out sewage. In the same case, if the withdrawal of water into the ground is allowed, then rings with holes made are purchased. The installation technology is no different from the above.
In order to give the finished structure a more complete look in terms of aesthetics, it is necessary to sprinkle with earth the part of the drain system protruding above the soil surface, while providing planting with plantings that will perform a decorative function. For example, planting a Moorish lawn that is undemanding to the conditions will make it possible to turn a purification plant into a flowering flower bed. 
Brick drain hole
According to experts, the best option would be to use ceramic bricks, which will ensure the strength and durability of the structure. The process of building a drain pit made of bricks is conditionally divided into several stages:
- in a hole dug to the required depth, a drainage layer 20 cm thick is placed, consisting of sand and crushed stone of different fractions,
- after that, they begin to build walls, laying bricks in a checkerboard pattern, taking into account a gap of 5 cm between them for better filtration of waste substances,
- on all sides, bricks, as the masonry grows, are lined with crushed stone of large fractions,
- in the masonry make the necessary clearance for inserting a sewer pipe.
There are often conflicting recommendations about the final step. For example, to reduce costs, it is proposed to perform masonry half a brick thick, but it is important to remember that such a design will hardly take the weight of the concrete closing cover.
The design itself provides for two options for laying bricks:
- down to ground level
- 80 cm below ground level.
In the case of laying bricks to ground level, space must be left, taking into account the thickness of the closing cover made of concrete. The recommended construction with the completion of masonry, not reaching the ground by 80 cm, raises some doubts about its appropriateness for a number of reasons:
- since the design will require the installation of a closing cover, then in the end the drain will still be deepened into the ground by at least 50 cm - which is dangerous by a possible fall into the pit,
- it is advised to fill the cover with earth to the surface level, but in this case either access to the hatch will be blocked, or another pipe of a larger diameter than the dimensions of the cover will have to be mounted on the installed cover - and in this case the system will be subjected to additional load.
Masonry is inferior to concrete in a number of factors:
- a concrete structure is erected much faster and ultimately requires less funds for construction,
- brick is more susceptible to moisture,
- to evenly distribute the load on the walls, the cesspool should have a cylindrical shape.
The expediency of erecting brickwork is manifested only when it is not possible to call heavy trucks.
Receiving containers made of plastic
If the question of how to make a drain pit without resorting to special costs is acute, then you need to pay attention to the option of installing a polymer tank of the required capacity. In this case, all work boils down to the fact that the required amount of earth is dug under the tank, and then the collection is placed in the prepared hole. After that, the remaining space is filled with soil. It is important to remember that sealed structures necessarily require the installation of a gas outlet.
Among the advantages are the following:
- ease of construction
- minimum costs in terms of labor intensity,
- protection of the air from the release of unpleasant odors,
- the durability of the polymer material, which is up to 50 years,
- during use, no waste substances enter the soil.
Of the minuses, you need to pay attention to the need for periodic pumping of sewage and the small capacity of the tank, so this option is optimal for use in low load conditions. For example, if the cottage is visited once a week, and a small amount of waste goes into the drain pit.
Temporary drain holes
They are made from used car tires. It is important to consider that the inner diameter must be at least a meter, otherwise the pit will quickly become clogged with sewage. In fact, the construction is easy to build: a hole of the required depth and diameter is pulled out, after which it is filled with tires, laying them one on one to the ground level.
Among the advantages of the design are the following:
- ease of work
- low price of waste tires,
- after laying, the empty space is filled with earth, and no additional finishing is required.
It is worth remembering that the design is suitable for a toilet placed outside and not connected to the house by a sewer system. Since it is assumed that the load on the pit will be negligible. Despite its name, with infrequent use, such a pit will last up to 25 years.
Drainage pit with timber formwork
Like the previous design, the use of wood is suitable as a temporary solution. In fact, this option is still sometimes used in rural areas and in some summer cottages, but due to the fact that wood, even with high-quality processing, will not withstand more than ten years, it makes little sense to use wooden formwork. Nevertheless, this is a drain pit, the price of which will be the most acceptable and will not exceed 3000-4000 rubles.
Of course, the speed of erection and isolation of the soil from sewage are the advantages of the design, but nevertheless, it is inferior to all varieties of the cesspool and for the most part serves as a relic of the past.
Drain hole without a bottom
It is a cesspool constructed of bricks, with the difference that the bottom of the drain is not processed. In some cases, the bottom is covered with a metal mesh, but in a chemically aggressive environment, it quickly rusts and loses its suitability. Impurities evenly fall into the ground, but due to the strong silting of the bottom of the pit, additional cleaning is periodically required.
In addition to the above, when arranging a cesspool, you need to pay attention to some tips to increase processing efficiency and ensure greater durability of the structure:
- Drainage of the bottom of the pit is best done using coarse gravel to prevent premature silting. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.
- To improve drainage, asbestos pipes are inserted at the bottom, which are installed with a ledge at a level of 50 cm from the bottom.
- It is better to finish the walls with clay to reduce the concentration of harmful substances entering the soil.
- In the event that there is one cesspool on the site, but its volume is not enough, it is more expedient to arrange another one nearby and connect the PVC pipe to the first one. In this case, the structure will become overflow and will need to be cleaned much less frequently.
- From the first moment of use, it is necessary to use special preparations containing bacteria. They speed up the natural recycling process and reduce odor.
- The overlap should extend above ground level so that in the event of heavy rain, the drain pit does not overflow with water and its contents do not fall into the area.
- In any embodiment, the design must include a chimney to remove accumulations of methane and other hazardous substances.
- Inorganic substances, including low-quality toilet paper, can significantly reduce the life of the structure and contribute to heavy silting of the surface.