Collection of houses from a bar. The correct technology for assembling a house from a bar

All photos from the article

The technology of construction of log houses, as well as houses from round timber, has a number of features associated with the specifics of the building material. For example, in the project it is necessary to take into account a decent shrinkage of the house, and a lot also depends on whether the house was assembled correctly from the beams. Given the many nuances, this issue should be considered in more detail.

General stages of log construction

The assembly of wooden houses from a bar is only one of the stages of building a house, in addition to this, the construction technology includes such stages as:

• foundation arrangement - it makes no sense to consider this stage in detail, it is only worth noting that a strip reinforced foundation is suitable for a 2-story house, and a columnar or grillage option may be enough for one-story buildings;

• then there is the direct assembly of the beam from the log house, the laying is carried out along the crowns, and here the execution of the work may already differ in details. Some prefer to use dowels for greater strength and rigidity of the walls, others use profiled timber without dowels. This stage is discussed in more detail below;

Note! Profiled solid lumber usually undergoes chamber drying, so it is ideal for building a house. Its cost can be considered a small minus, but the increased price is justified - after all, the buyer receives a bar with minimal moisture, which reduces the shrinkage period and the likelihood of cracking the tree.

• then a roof is built and the house is allowed to stand. The time during which the house "sits down" varies greatly depending on the conditions of construction, the type of wood, the type of lumber, and even the time of their harvest;

• the final interior decoration of the house, the installation of windows and doors can be performed after the complete shrinkage of the house. In order to at least roughly navigate the timing, you can use a moisture meter, the average moisture content of the timber should not be higher than 20-25%.

Note! If the deadlines are running out, then glued laminated timber can save the situation. Assembling a house from glued beams does not provide for a long standing of the house, this is not necessary, since the beam itself is glued from several pre-dried boards.

More about building a house

Assembling a house from logs or timber is a rather painstaking work, so it’s better not to rush. The negligence made at this stage can turn into serious troubles in the future, which cannot be 100% eliminated.

Walling

For additional protection of the log house, the bars of the lower trim are first laid on the foundation, their cross section is slightly larger than the thickness of the future wall. And if the foundation is columnar, then the assembly of a log house from a bar involves the use of a double lower trim. This is necessary due to the fact that the bars will bend, so you need to increase their height.

Note! Before laying the lower trim, a layer of a waterproofing agent must be applied to the surface of the foundation (coated waterproofing can be used).

After that, you can proceed to laying along the crowns, until one crown is laid, it is impossible to start laying the second. If an ordinary solid beam is used for construction, then it can be recommended to use dowels through 3-4 beams with a step between them of 2-3 m. Dowels can be both wooden and metal and significantly increase the rigidity of the wall, the risk that the wall will lead when it dries is significantly reduced.

In principle, the assembly of a log house can be carried out without additional joining of the beams in a vertical plane. This is quite acceptable when using profiled dried timber, in this case, the selected grooves on the surface of the lumber are sufficient.

But usually pins are still not neglected - they do not greatly affect the final cost, and an increase in reliability will definitely not be superfluous. Moreover, quite often preference is given to wooden dowels, metal dowels are not very suitable for these purposes, since condensation can form on their surface, and this is fraught with rotting of the wood.

Also of great importance is the type of timber, or rather the profile of its surface.

The following options are possible:

• german profile(comb), characterized by a large number of small teeth. In this case, assembling a profiled beam with your own hands does not require laying a heater between them;

Using this method of combining bars is difficult to consider appropriate in our time:

• the risk of timber decay from the inside increases (due to condensation on the metal);
• the cost of such studs is high (it can reach up to 400 rubles / m), since screeds are installed in increments of 1.5-2.0 m to a depth of 30-40 cm, then in total such a purchase will cost a lot;
• one of the advantages of this method, some call adjustment of shrinkage, but this is not true. The only thing that can be achieved is that the bars will not lead when dried.

There is an opinion among professionals that the trend of using screed studs has gone since the time when the assembly of glued laminated timber was still being mastered. It was necessary to minimize the warping of the timber in any way, and the screed solved this issue. In principle, the Finns also use something similar, but there metal ties are used only on outlets, this is justified.

In a completely budgetary version, it is also possible to assemble a bar on nails, but this is not the best option, its only advantage can be considered perhaps a small cost.

Floor device

After the walls have been erected, you can start building the floor of the first floor and interfloor ceilings.

The instruction for the installation of the floor of the first floor will look like this:

• the beams will be attached to the beam of the lower trim. If a double beam is used, then in the upper one you can simply make cuttings up to 5 cm deep and thus rigidly fix the ends of the floor beams. In the case of a single beam, steel brackets can be used to support the ends of the beams on them;

• further, small bars are attached to the bottom of the beams to create a support for the subfloor. A draft floor is laid on them;
• then follows a layer of insulation, on top of it - a vapor barrier membrane;
• only after that it is possible to lay the finishing floor boards on the floor.

The design of interfloor ceilings can be simplified and dispense with a heat-insulating layer. At the same time, floor beams can be left as an element of the interior, this will only decorate the room.

Ready houses from a bar

If the cost does not matter, then you can order a finished log house. That is, the question of how a house is assembled from a bar does not have to be solved, specialists will first assemble it at their production site, then disassemble it, deliver it to the construction site and assemble it again. After that, you can proceed to the finish.

At the same time, the process itself is a bit like a designer - all the details are already perfectly sized and marked with numbers. So it remains only to arrange them in accordance with the project.

According to the same scheme, the assembly of a bath from a bar can also be performed. Although, the bath is not such a large-scale structure, so you can try to build it yourself. To facilitate the work, you can use ordinary dried timber and nails instead of dowels to combine the timbers.

One of the most interesting, popular and widely used materials for the construction of private houses and cottages today is timber. The construction of a residential building from a bar requires much more modest financial investments and time costs than building a house from more familiar materials. In this case, in the case of a bar, you can do all the construction activities with your own hands.

Before starting any work, you need to draw up a plan for the future home. In the absence of design skills, entrust this work to some third-party organization, or select suitable drawings from open sources.

Before proceeding with the design, you need to establish the optimal dimensions of the future structure. When choosing the optimal dimensions, be guided, first of all, by the available area, as well as by your personal needs.

If you have a small family and some free space, you can give preference to a small log house measuring 3x4 m. With proper arrangement, even in such a small building there will be enough usable space. The lack of space can be compensated for by a terrace or attic space.

If there are no particular problems with the place, but you still don’t want to build a huge building, build a house measuring 5x4 m.

The standard dimensions of summer and country log houses are indicators at the level of 6x6 m, 6x8 m, etc. Such a house can already be made two-story without any fear.

For the rest, be guided by the conditions of your particular situation. The larger your family, the larger the area should have a house. In most cases, everything is limited solely by the size of the site and the available budget.

Buy a bar, the section of which corresponds to the size of the future house as much as possible. The thicker the timber, the less money you will have to spend on heat-insulating material and sound insulation.

Usually, for the construction of load-bearing walls, a beam of 200x200 mm is used. For the construction of a small house in a region with a mild climate, you can use a material with a section of 150x150 mm or even 100x100 mm.

In the process of assembling the walls between the rows, it is imperative to lay a sealant made of flax or jute. Such a seal allows you to get rid of all the cracks and additionally insulate the walls.

Before starting construction work, be sure to study the properties of the soil on your site. It is quite difficult to cope with such work on your own - it is better to immediately contact a specialist. Additionally, you need to know the level of passage of groundwater.

Select the length of the timber in accordance with the size of the house. The standard length of the elements is 600 cm. If the walls of your future home will be long, try to find a company that can make a beam according to your size. This will require additional financial investments, however, a solid beam is superior in all respects to prefabricated elements.

The beam needs a mandatory finishing treatment with a water-repellent compound. Without such impregnation, the material will very soon begin to become moldy and rot, and as a result it will completely collapse.

If it is necessary to insulate the finished house, heat-insulating materials are best placed from the inside. Mineral wool heat insulators are excellent for insulation with the obligatory laying of waterproofing material between the thermal insulation and the walls.

If possible, it is better not to do the outer skin of a log house - such a finish will hide all the aesthetic beauty of the building material.

Pre-calculate the required amount of materials in order to avoid problems with the sale of excess timber or the purchase of missing elements in the future.

First step. Determine the height of the house and calculate the perimeter of the walls of the building. Take the height of the ceilings, taking into account the thickness of the floors and the floor. Calculate the area of ​​internal and external walls, taking into account the thickness of the beam section.

Second step. Calculate the total number of bars. To do this, you need to divide the height of the house wall by the height of one element. This will tell you how many beams you will need to build each wall. Calculate the length based on the length of the walls. Sum the number of beams needed to build all the walls of the house.

Third step. Add to the calculated value a 5-15% margin for marriage or unforeseen damage during the construction process.

Initially, the walls of your house will have a height slightly higher than the design figure. Such an increase will occur due to the use of an insulating gasket between the crowns. Over time, the wood will shrink, and the height of the walls will be restored to the design.

House Building Guide

Buy the right amount of finished timber and start building. Start by preparing the site and arranging the foundation.

Foundation

First step. Remove debris and all obstructions from the construction site. Mark the site with stakes driven into the ground and a rope stretched between them.

Second step. Dig a trench for the foundation. Timber houses are traditionally built on strip foundations up to 80-100 cm deep. Select the specific depth taking into account the conditions of your specific situation.

Third step. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and gravel. Thoroughly tamp the backfill. For better tamping, spill the backfill with water.

Fourth step. Fasten the formwork to the walls of the trench.

Fifth step. Lay a reinforcing mesh over the backfill.

Sixth step. Fill the trench with concrete. Leave the foundation until fully cured (3-5 weeks).

In warm weather, the foundation will need to be watered for the first few days after pouring to keep it from cracking. It is better to leave the formwork until the foundation has completely solidified. If necessary, it can be dismantled earlier, but not less than 10 days after the last moistening of the base.

First crown

First step. Lubricate the frozen foundation with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing material on it for waterproofing.

Second step. Start laying the first crown. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Traditionally, the first row of timber is laid using the “half-tree” method. To make such a connection, you need to saw off the lower part of one beam, and the upper part of the other.

Third step. Lay out the bottom crown. Adjust the bars as carefully as possible.

At the same stage, prepare wooden dowels. With the help of these elements you will connect the rows of timber. Nagels are preferably made from wood of the same species that was used to make the main building elements. Make holes for dowels in advance. The optimal step between fasteners is 1.2-1.5 m.

Form the first row of walls and proceed to further work.

Walls

Continue laying out the walls in even horizontal rows. Insert directly into the lower crown using the dovetail method. Place the floor beams in increments of no more than 40 cm, otherwise the floor will sag.

The walls are laid out according to an extremely simple principle: you lay the bars, connect them to each other in the corners using the “on the root spike” method, connect the top row to the underlying row using dowels. Drive in the dowels to about a third of the depth of the beam of the lower row, i.e. with the help of one dowel, you can connect 2-3 rows at once. Be sure to lay insulation between the rows. You can use jute or moss.

Check each row with a building level. Use a sledgehammer to straighten rows.

Lay out the walls of the house of the desired height in the same way. All rows laid above the lower crown are arranged according to the same principle.

The top two crowns do not need to be fixed. You will remove them before the roof work begins and install the ceiling beams.

Proceed to the arrangement of the roof. If you plan to make a residential attic space, use a 15x20 cm timber for ceiling beams. Fix the beams themselves in increments of about 1-1.1 m.

Proceed to the construction of the frame of the roof structure. The framework includes the following elements:

Install the Mauerlat, rafters and other items listed. Attach the batten boards to the rafters. For the crate, use boards about 150 mm wide and 15-20 mm thick. The greatest reliability is characterized by a continuous crate. For the rest, be guided by the features of your situation, taking into account the slope of the slope, the type and weight of the finish, etc.

In conclusion, it remains to lay the finishing roofing with the preliminary installation of steam, heat and moisture insulating layers.

After that, you can, if necessary, insulate the house and perform finishing work. Laying communications, installing doors and window structures, lighting, furniture and other points - all this remains at your discretion.

In the case of a chamber-drying beam, finishing can be started almost immediately after the completion of construction work. When using another material, you will have to wait until the wood shrinks. This takes at least 6 months.

A log house built in accordance with all building codes and recommendations will serve you well for many decades. Follow the instructions, and very soon you will be able to enjoy comfortable living in a reliable home built by yourself.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself timber house

Log cabin from profiled timber: shrinkage, assembly with your own hands. A house built from profiled timber is something more than a roof over your head. This is a place of endless comfort, which has attractive external data and excellent characteristics.

This is due to the fact that only natural materials are used without glue and harmful impurities. Thanks to this, the house will have an unusual atmosphere, and you will always feel comfortable in it.

Counts:

• The naturalness of the material.
• Low thermal conductivity - thanks to this, even in the cold season, the rooms will always be warm.
• Reliability and durability.
• Uniform and fast shrinkage of the material.

Building a house from a log house

Key stages of construction from a log house of profiled timber

Self-made construction of log cabins is a very complex and time-consuming process, which cannot be carried out without special skills. The first stage of work at which difficulties are encountered is the choice of material. The profiled bursa should have a cross section of at least 200 mm. But if you are building a 7 * 7 log house, which will be used only in summer, you can take material with a smaller section.

Do not forget that during self-assembly, shrinkage should be taken into account, which will be from 10 to 15 cm. We will divide the process of assembling a log house from profiled 7 * 7 into five parts.

Process:

1. Scheme drawing, design.
2. Fill .
3. work.
4. and outside work.

Main processes

Building walls

Creating and building walls is a very important process that should be done with all care. We lay out the rows of timber very carefully. Each subsequent one must be fastened with the previous dowel. Thanks to this action, the beam will not move to the side. To install the pins, you will need to drill holes that will be 40 mm in diameter. This is the ideal indicator for the dowels to easily enter the hole.

Important: If you set out to build a house for year-round use, do not forget about the compactor. To do this, in one of the bars it will be necessary to cut a protrusion, and in the other, cut a groove with similar dimensions. The layers of timber can be alternated with grooves and spikes. Such a structure will make the overall structure more reliable and stronger. You can’t make mistakes in laying, as you will have to take everything apart and start over.

If the size of a log house made of profiled timber is more than 7 * 7, at least one partition should be installed on the first floor. This will be a kind of support for the flooring on the second floor. In the end, when building walls, you will need to cut down window openings. Determine the location for the windows and cut out the openings. When drying the material, it is important that they are well ventilated. After shrinkage of the profiled frame, you can proceed with the installation of windows.

Recent work in the assembly of the log house

This is the final stage of the assembly. You only need to insulate the building and do the finishing, as well as roofing. After everything is done, the construction will be officially considered completed. As you can use mineral wool / glass wool. Or is perfect for interior decoration, but the first option will be much better.

Ready log cabin - order or do it yourself?

A log house made of profiled timber is an excellent building with a huge list of advantages. In order for it not to lose its remarkable qualities, it is recommended to order or buy a ready-made building, since during the erection of one's own hand there are many errors and problems, due to which the final version of the dwelling will not be comfortable.

With self-assembly, many questions will certainly arise, the answer to which will not even be given by every specialist. Many people, for lack of experience, make serious mistakes, and this is as a result of error and a violation of the integrity of the structure as a whole. In this case, the good old saying works: “The miser pays twice”, since you have to redo everything, hire a specialist and purchase additional material. To avoid such mistakes, there is a share of common sense to order or buy a ready-made log house from a reputable company.

Order and purchase - advantages and disadvantages

It is much easier to order a kit or buy a log house from a specialized company than to build a house yourself. This is due to such reasons:

Well, the main advantage in ordering a log house from profiled timber is savings. Indeed, it will be much cheaper for you to buy a ready-made building or place an order.

If you want to do the construction yourself, it will be more expensive for you for several reasons:

• The material will be purchased from specialized firms. But these same firms purchase timber at a cost several times lower than they sell.
• Material consumption. Do-it-yourself construction has never been without mistakes. A groove that you cut incorrectly or something else will lead to the purchase of new material. Experienced professionals are unlikely to make such mistakes.
• It is impossible to assemble a log house alone / together, so you will have to hire a team. Handymen who will help you will also have to pay.

Such costs usually exceed the payment for the order of the same log house in the company.

Additional advantages when ordering a log house from profiled timber

The advantages mentioned above are not the last ones on the list. When ordering or buying a finished log house, you will save time and effort. Even if you succeed on the materials (which is unlikely), it will take you a lot of time to assemble, and you will also have to wait for the shrinkage of the log house from the profiled timber. Contacting a company is a great option if you want to get a house in the shortest possible time, and you want it to meet all quality parameters.

You will also not be able to do the construction yourself in the winter. But this is not a hindrance for companies that, even in winter, assemble pediments, walls and partitions in production workshops. After that, they leave it for shrinkage and manage to do both the interior and exterior decoration by the beginning of spring.

The construction of glued beams has the following advantages:

1. The material of manufacture is winter wood, and it has a dense structure.
2. , built in winter, has a plus in the form of freezing moisture from the walls.
3. So it is much better ventilated, due to which good shrinkage will be ensured.

Price

The price for the construction of a log house will depend on many factors, which include the quantity and quality of the timber, as well as its cross section and the complexity of the construction.

Prices are approximate.

Results

Do not forget that you should order kits only from well-known and time-tested companies. Do not forget that different companies have different prices for construction. So, an order in a popular company will be much more expensive than in a less popular company, but the quality of work will be the same.

Do not forget, that when choosing a log house, you should carefully examine it and notice all the details. Before buying, study all the characteristics and evaluate the quality. The finished product can be placed and immediately begin finishing work.

For our country, wooden buildings are not at all uncommon, so the advantages that natural materials have are familiar to many. But nothing stands still, and now the technology of building from a bar has made some changes to the installation, compared with a log house.

Below we will talk about the types of timber, how to assemble it, and also watch the video in this article that matches our topic.

Building a house

As you probably know, timber in its configuration is smooth and profiled, and the technology for assembling a house from profiled timber is somewhat different than that of a smooth one. Also, a milled profile can be either from solid wood or glued, and although this does not affect the assembly process itself, the commissioning of the finished structure is very different in terms of time.

Material selection

• First of all, you need to decide on the material for building a house, and since we are talking about timber, then the corresponding requirements are imposed on it. By itself, wood is a fairly rigid material and is not inferior in strength even to some metals, moreover, it is an excellent noise absorber, which means it is a sound insulator.
  The negative qualities of a tree include its combustibility, instability to water and a tendency to deformation in the form of shrinkage of the building in the first time after construction.

• Coniferous wood species are the most resistant to weather conditions, and such a profile is also less prone to rotting compared to the rest. In addition, the technology of assembling walls from timber implies two types of material - solid wood and glued profiles.
  The first option, with natural humidity after the construction of the house, provides for its shrinkage within 10-12 months, and only after that it can be finished and operated, and the second option does not shrink, therefore, further operation can be started immediately after installation.
• In addition, the technology for assembling a house from a bar with your own hands depends on its profile. So, profiled timber structures are folded like a designer, where all spikes and grooves are provided and calculated for assembly, but for a smooth profile it is necessary to equip all the joints yourself, which, of course, takes much more time and requires a certain skill.

Log assembly technique

• First of all, a salary is set, but this must be done on roofing material in order to create a cut-off waterproofing. However, there may not be a basement, as such, if the house is mounted on a pile or column foundation - in such cases, the crown timber will be laid on the grillage. But we'll talk about it below.

• When assembling, the technology of a log house from a bar may differ slightly, and you can see this from the drawn examples that are given above.. For example, corner joints are often assembled “in an oblique paw” and tightened with a metal bracket, that is, it is simply hammered into each joint from above.
  They are cut under the partitions with a "frying pan" or, as it is also called, a "dovetail", but this is meant as an option, and not as a final and irreversible assembly instruction.

Advice. Although it is believed that a gasket is not required on the crown crown, it is better to lay a groove with tow.
This will protect the connection from possible gaps in case of chips.

Advice. When you can skip some areas, as the compositions do not have color.
To prevent this from happening, you can add a little stain to the solution, as you can see in the photo above - so you can clearly see the result of the coating.

• After installing the salary, the technology of wooden houses from a bar involves installing a log for the floor (in large rooms they should be doubled) and fixing them with capercaillie. The next step is to install the first crown.

• Between themselves, the beams are fastened with wooden dowels, about a meter apart, hammering them into pre-made holes in the form of nails. A temporary floor should be laid along the logs so that it is convenient to move around the construction site during further work.
  The subsequent bars are mounted in the same way, that is, connecting with each other with dowels, at the corners joining “in an oblique paw”, and in the gaps (partitions) with a “frying pan” or “dovetail”.

• It is possible that you will not be able to lay out the entire wall with crowns, and you will have to increase the profile, then the method of connecting to the end butt with a crest is used. Such a docking provides a reliable connection and, in fact, two crowns are enough on the wall - the upper and lower rows, and all other rows can be laid from a prefabricated profile.
  For partitions, a thinner beam is usually used, since it does not carry a heat-insulating function.

Advice Solid wood timber is quite heavy and it is quite difficult to lift the profiles to the top of the wall when it grows.
Therefore, you can make such a simple device in the form of a ramp from the same material - this will make your work much easier.
Upstairs, each beam is lifted by a drag, tied to it from the spirit of the sides of the rope.

Roof

• To equip the roof, beams are first laid on the finished log house, and then temporary flooring is made, exactly as it was done on the floor, so that it is safe to walk on it. This is practiced in order to be able to assemble the rafter legs directly at the installation site, without lifting the finished structure from the ground to the roof.

• It is best to assemble the rafters in the leg (at the top point) with bolts - the connection is reliable and easy to perform, and use a beam for this 150 × 50 mm or 200 × 50 mm. For temporary fixation of the structure, you can use ordinary slats, 25 mm thick, simply by nailing them loosely on both sides.
  The step between the rafters is determined by the technology of timber houses depending on the height of the ridge - from 40 to 100 cm (a small step is necessary for arranging the attic).

• From below, the cut rafters are installed on the beam, nailed, and then pulled together with a metal bracket. The entire structure must be checked with a level so that each leg is strictly vertical, and then we fasten the ridge beam.
  Also, to complete the frame at this stage, racks and struts are screwed or nailed.

• The final touch of working with the frame will be its crate for roofing materials. To do this, you can use both edged and unedged boards, 20 or 25 mm thick, but the thickness parameter must be kept in the same size.
  Roofing material is laid under the roof (most often it is corrugated board or metal tile) and this is done simultaneously with the finishing coating - it's more convenient.

Types of foundations for a wooden house

• We promised to tell in general terms about the foundations that are used to build wooden houses. Considering that the technology of timber walls allows the installation of lightweight structures, the foundation should not be powerful and therefore a screw foundation is often used for such purposes. Installation takes place quite quickly, without prior drilling of wells.

• Also, piles can be wooden or bored, but the most durable foundation is tape. On such a foundation they put large houses, even several floors. In addition, with a strip foundation, you can equip a basement or basement.

The erection of walls from a bar begins without pre-assembly, the assembly begins immediately at the construction site of a house or bath, in contrast to the erection of walls from logs. For the construction of timber, two main methods of corner joints are used - “into the corner” and “with the remainder”. Mezhventsovye connections are made using wooden dowels in the form of a circle with a diameter of three centimeters.

The choice of technology, in this case, involves the choice of a method for assembling walls, consider three main methods. First, for those who do not know yet, it is worth noting that timber is a finished building material that is made from logs, usually conifers, and is sawn from four sides in the factory. When choosing a bar, they try to get dry and even bars. The width of the timber at a temperature of -40 ° C should be at least 18 centimeters, and at -30 ° C - at least 15 centimeters. The lumber assembly technology is simpler than the construction of walls from logs. They are less labor-intensive and affordable for self-construction, because there is no need for carpentry skills. With little work skills, a private developer can easily assemble a house from a bar with his own hands.

Of course, like the construction of any other house, the construction of a block house begins with the preparation of the foundation, after which the first crown is installed on it, the corner connection of which is made “in half a tree”, regardless of the method of corner connections you choose. After that, they either continue to erect “in half a tree”, or collect it “in a dressing with a root spike” or match the bars with dowels. The same technology for erecting chopped walls - a heater made of moss, tow, hemp or felt is laid between each layer of timber. Walls made of timber, in comparison with log walls, have one drawback: unlike a round groove in a log house, in bars a horizontal seam is filled with moisture when it is exposed to precipitation. If it is not supposed to sheathe the walls erected from the timber with finishing materials, then chamfers of about 20x20 millimeters are made on the upper edge of each timber to improve water drainage.

Assembly technologies

Half-tree joining is a method that gets its name from the removal of the lower and upper half of its array at the corner joints of the beams.

Such an assembly begins with making holes in the corners of the beams for installing the dowel so that each dowel can connect several beams at once. After the first crown, which is connected by pins in the corners, is laid, a sealant is placed on it, after which the next crown is placed. As soon as the connection of the corners of the second crown is completed, the crowns begin to rally together. A dowel is driven into the second crown, which should enter the first crown by half its length. If the tool used allows you to make holes for three thicknesses of the crown, then the pin is riveted to the rhinestone with three crowns. If you do not take special measures, then this beam assembly technology gives very strong blowing in the corner joints of the structure. In order to reduce the ventilation of corner joints, grooves are made and dense wood inserts are fixed. If, when assembling the walls “in half a tree”, you leave the edges of the bars, you can get an assembly “with a remainder”, which is much less commonly used.

The assembly of walls by tying the beams with a root spike begins with making holes in the corner joints of the first crown under the dowel, which is connected “in half a tree”. As soon as the first crown is laid, the method of fixing the angles changes. In order to connect the corners by tying them with a root spike, the end of one beam is processed in the same way as in the figure, and a special groove is made at the end of the second beam. The technology for connecting the crowns is no different from the “half-tree” assembly. However, the root tenon greatly reduces the ventilation of the corner joints, which makes the walls warmer. But in order to achieve this, the grooves and spikes must be very tightly connected.

Assembly of cobbled walls on dowels

The assembly of walls using dowels also begins with the assembly of the first crown using the “half-tree” method. After that, the assembly of the walls begins with the use of dowels in the corner joints. To connect the corners at both ends of the bars, grooves are cut out, and dowels are inserted into them, which should fit very tightly to each other. The locations of the veneers and joints alternate through each crown so that the finished corner looks like the corner shown in the figure when assembling the walls by tying them with a root spike. Very often, nails with a length of no less than the width of one and a half crowns are used to connect the crowns of the timber, which greatly saves time. Also, to simplify the assembly of walls using spikes, metal plates two to three centimeters wide are used instead of wooden spikes.

1. The first crown should be started with assembly in the “half-tree” way. After two or three crowns, this method can be repeated;
2. The location of the wedge should be alternated. Alternation is not required when the wedge is made on both sides;
3. A few years later, after the main shrinkage of the walls has occurred, it is necessary to caulk the walls - close up all the seams;
4. Instead of using tow between the crowns when building walls from a log house, it is worth using ready-made materials, which will greatly simplify the process of assembling a house from a bar.

And in conclusion, the technology of building from timber is in no way inferior to the construction of walls from chopped logs. This material is also very environmentally friendly and comfortable, moreover, it is more technologically advanced, if you pay attention to the process of further finishing work.