Decorating wooden ceilings, how to create the best interior. Wooden ceiling: types and installation How to make a ceiling from wooden slats

The structure of the ceiling in a wooden house is most often a kind of "pie" of two outer layers of cladding, fixed on the beams of the attic floor, between which one of the types of insulation is laid. Topics not less, in addition to this system, there are other ceiling designs.

How to make the ceiling in a wooden house correctly in order to avoid heat leakage from the premises and prevent cold air from entering the attic? This question arises before every owner of such buildings. In addition, an equally important point is the interior decoration of the ceiling, since the appearance of the entire interior will depend on its appearance. Therefore, you need to consider whether the surface will be additionally sheathed with decorative material.

But first, you need to consider in detail the basic structure, its installation, as well as all the materials necessary for it.

Attic floor and ceiling construction

Any wooden structure is covered with beams, which are the basis for covering the ceiling and floor of the attic or the second floor of the building. There are three main ceiling designs - hemmed, panel and floor.

False ceiling

The scheme of the hemmed structure is as follows:

1 - hemmed ceiling boards;

2 - floor beam;

3 - rolling sheathing;

4 - insulation material;

5 - vapor barrier film.

• It is most convenient to carry out the installation, starting with the fixing of the vapor barrier film on the floor beams from the side of the premises. It is stretched and nailed to the beams with staples using a stapler. The vapor barrier canvases overlap each other by 100 ÷ 150 mm and, after fixing on the beams, are glued together using waterproof construction tape.

The vapor barrier can also be laid after the bottom filing is completed, then the film will cover not only the boards fixed from the bottom, but also the floor beams. This is especially convenient if fine-grained expanded clay will be used as a heater. If this option is chosen for insulation flooring, then it is carried out from the side of the attic.

• On top of the film, ceiling boards are mounted. Often, instead of boards, chipboards (chipboard or better - OSB) or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm are used.

The filing is chosen depending on what kind of decorative ceiling covering should be fixed on top of it. It should be noted that when choosing a decorative finish in the form of a wooden lining, it is also used for hemming the ceiling, without preliminary installation of sheet material or boards.

• Further, work is carried out from the side of the attic, but before carrying out them, you need to take care of safety. Since it is in no case possible to step on the filing boards, you need to lay a temporary boardwalk perpendicular to the floor beams and you can walk only on it during work, periodically shifting it to the required distance.
• Between the floor beams, insulation is laid or poured onto a vapor barrier film. The choice of this material will be discussed below.

• If a roll insulation made in mats or backfill is chosen, then it is recommended to also cover it from above with a waterproofing film, which can be used as dense polyethylene or roofing material. It is fixed with brackets to the floor beams.
• On top of the insulation and waterproofing, rolling sheathing is laid, which will serve as the floor of the attic.

Another way of installing all the components is to carry out the entire process from the attic, but it is not only uncomfortable, but also extremely dangerous, since To If this method of work is chosen, then a temporary boardwalk of durable thick boards that can withstand the weight of the master must also be laid.

Deck ceiling

A false ceiling differs from a hemmed ceiling when installing floor beams of a room. If the rooms are small, no more than 2500 mm wide, and each of them will overlap separately, then such a ceiling design is quite suitable for its construction.

• In this case, the ceiling boards are fixed on the load-bearing walls of the building or on a bar nailed to the walls along the perimeter of the room at a distance of 120 ÷ 150 mm from their top.
• Planks for a flat ceiling must be chosen thick enough - at least 50 mm, since insulation and parts that form the attic floor will be mounted on them.

It should be borne in mind that if the boards will be installed on a beam, then it is recommended to lay it on brackets driven into the wall, made of reinforcing rods, and additionally fix it with nails or self-tapping screws.

It is advisable to choose a lining for the flooring, which is connected using special grooves.

• Further, from the side of the attic, the boards are covered with a vapor barrier.
• On top of the film, an insulating material is laid, which is closed with a waterproofing film, fixed to the walls with brackets.
• Then, on another row of the fixed timber or on the load-bearing walls, the boardwalk is laid - the attic floor.

Panel ceiling

This ceiling is made up of individual panels that are combined into one structure. Most often, panels made on the floor are lifted and stacked on load-bearing beams, and then connected to each other.

Each of the panels consists of the following elements:

• A box or shield made of two beams and planks.

The beam is installed as a lag, at such a distance from each other that the internal distance between them is 600 mm. This width is considered optimal, since most insulation made in mats have it.

• Then a vapor barrier film is laid in the resulting box.
• Insulation is laid on top of it, which is covered with waterproofing on top. It is fixed to the side bars.

In this form, the panel rises onto the floor beams. If the finished blocks are made of small size, then it will be easy to raise them to a height, and there they will already be combined into an integral structure with an upper plank sheathing.

• When fastening individual panels from the side of the beams, an insulating material should be laid between them to close the "bridges" of cold penetration.

It should be noted that some craftsmen prefer to assemble panels at a height, immediately along the entire length or width of the room, since it is not possible to lift it entirely due to the rather large weight.

Would you like to know more about ceiling construction?

Thermal insulation materials for ceiling insulation

It is very important to choose the right insulation material, since not only the warmth in the house, but also the safety of the residents will depend on this. If the wood can be processed by yourself impregnated fire retardants, then, when choosing a heater, you need to immediately pay attention to the marking according to its flammability class, which should be placed on the package.

Criterias of choice

When purchasing insulation material, you need to focus on the following criteria:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Moderate density.
• Low hygroscopicity, i.e. the material should absorb moisture to a minimum.
• Minimum flammability, which is indicated on the package in letters and numbers:

- NG - non-combustible material;

- G 1 - low flammability;

- G 2 - moderate flammability;

- G 3 - medium flammability;

- G 4 - strong flammability.

• It is equally important to pay attention to the ability to smoke formation when the insulation is smoldering, as smoke can be just as dangerous as fire. This parameter is designated from D1 to D3, respectively - low, medium and high smoke formation.
• Another parameter related to fire safety is flame spread. RP 1 ÷ RP4. The speed of propagation of fire is classified according to the same principle as the first two parameters - from low (1) to high (4).
• The ecological purity of the insulation - it should not immediately or over time release fumes that are dangerous to humans into the environment.
• Ease and speed of installation.

The durability of the material without losing its performance.

Soundproof properties - ability suppress external noises (for example, the sounds of heavy rain or hail pounding on the roof), keep the house quiet.

The table shows the main physical and technical parameters of the most used heaters:

Materials (edit)	Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / m × ° С	Thickness in mm corresponding. R = 1.2 m² × ° C / W	Density kg / m³	Working temperature, ° С	Vapor permeability Mg / (m × h × Pa)
Polyurethane foam	0,025	30	40 ÷ 60	-100 to +150	0.04 ÷ 0.05
	0,07	36	30 ÷ -45	From - 50 to +75	0,14
Polyethylene foam	0,045	56	35	-60 to +90	0,1
Styrofoam	0.03	60	40 ÷ 125	-50 to +75	0.23
Stone wool	0,047	56	35 ÷ 150	-60 to +180	0.53
Glass wool	0,056	67	15 ÷ 100	-60 to +480	0.53

It makes sense in the article to consider additional characteristics, the most popular of the heaters presented in the table.

Types of mineral wool

One of the most popular heaters, and I must say that deservedly, is mineral wool. Under this term, several materials are broken that are made from various natural raw materials, therefore, the technical characteristics may vary somewhat:

Table of comparative characteristics of varieties of mineral wool.

Parameter name	Stone wool	Slag	Glass wool
Limiting temperature of application, ° С	up to 1000	up to 250-300	from -60 to +450
Average fiber diameter, μm	from 4 to 12	from 4 to 12	from 5 to 15
Material hygroscopicity in 24 hours (no more)%	0,95	1.9	1.7
Taunt	No	Yes	Yes
Thermal conductivity coefficient, W / (m-K)	0,035-0,042	0,46-0,48	0,038 -0,046
Sound absorption coefficient	from 0.75 to 95	from 0.75 to 0.82	from 0.8 to 92
The presence of a binder,%	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10	from 2.5 to 10
Flammability of the material	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable	NG - non-flammable
Release of harmful substances during combustion	Yes	Yes	Yes
Heat capacity, J / kg * K	1050	1000	1050
Vibration resistance	No	No	No
Elasticity,%	75	there is no data	there is no data
Sintering temperature, ° С	600	250-300	450-500
Fiber length, mm	16	16	15-50

Stone wool

Stone wool is made from rocks gabbro-basalt groups and marls. Such material has low thermal conductivity, therefore it perfectly retains heat inside the premises. The fibrous structure of the insulation, in principle, can withstand heating at 900 ÷ 1000 degrees, but at a temperature of 600 degrees, the material is sintered and loses its heat-insulating properties.

Stone (basalt) wool is the most convenient material to work with

A very important quality for the installation of this type of cotton wool is the absence of prickly brittle fibers - the material is practically safe for the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract and eyes, for the skin.

This type of insulation can be called "breathable", so the air in the premises will not be heavy and stagnant.

Stone wool does not emit toxic substances, therefore it is safe for humans.

It is produced in various forms that are convenient for installation work, and recently a material has appeared that has an additional foil coating, which helps reflect the heat rising to the ceiling into the room.

Glass wool

Glass wool is made from broken glass and sand, by melting them at high temperatures, reaching 1500 degrees. As a result of this technological process, fibers with a length of up to 50 mm and a thickness of 4 ÷ 15 microns are obtained, which make the material strong and elastic.

Glass wool - the performance is not bad, but when laying, increased precautions are required

Installation carried out in accordance with all the rules will allow you to keep the insulation without losing its qualities for many years. Glass wool is not susceptible to damage by fungal formations, they do not build rodent nests in it, it has low thermal conductivity and can withstand low and high temperatures.

The disadvantages of this type of mineral wool include the fact that its installation makes it difficult to brittle the fibers, which have fairly sharp edges. Their fragments tend to penetrate under the fabric of clothing, stick into the skin, enter the respiratory tract and mucous membranes of the eyes. Therefore, when starting the installation work, you need to protect yourself by wearing protective uniforms, which, after the completion of the warming process, must be packaged and disposed of.

Slag

This type of insulation is made from blast-furnace slags, but is capable of withstanding temperatures reaching only up to 300 degrees without loss of quality, while glass and stone wool can withstand higher heating. When this temperature is exceeded, the slag fibers are sintered, respectively, losing their insulation functions.

Slag - the quality is lower, and during installation you also need means of individual protection of hands, eyes, respiratory organs

Slag wool is hygroscopic, and with an increase in humidity in the environment, it easily absorbs it, which leads to a decrease in insulation and sound insulation qualities.

The installation of slag wool must also be carried out extremely carefully, since its fibers are also splits and can harm the skin and mucous membranes. Therefore, before installation, prepare suitable work clothing and protective equipment for the eyes and respiratory tract.

Styrofoam types

Many owners prefer to save money, and that is why they insulate their houses with expanded polystyrene, known to all (more often it is called polystyrene). However, before purchasing it, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the characteristics, since the material has an abundance of significant drawbacks.

There are two types of expanded polystyrene - extruded and regular. Although they are, in principle, made from the same starting polymer, they have slightly different characteristics.

Plain Styrofoam

Ordinary foamed polystyrene (foam) has a rather porous structure, since it consists mainly of air, and only 2 ÷ 3% falls on the polymer component.

The positive qualities of this type of insulation include:

• Foam plastic has low thermal conductivity, the coefficient of which is only 0.03-0.04 W / m × ° C.
• The material has good sound insulation properties.
• Polyfoam almost does not absorb moisture, which means it is protected from fungi and other forms of microbiological life.
• The insulation is easy to install, as it is easy to process, fit, and fasten. In addition, the material is produced in large panels that can immediately cover a large area of ​​the insulated surface.
• Polyfoam is not afraid of the effects of gypsum and lime, cement and salts, as well as water-based coloring compositions.
• The negative qualities of regular and extruded foam are quite similar, so they can be combined.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The extruded foam is marked with the letters EPPS and XPS. It has a denser and more homogeneous structure, therefore its thermal conductivity is slightly higher than that of expanded polystyrene. The advantages of this material include the following qualities:

• Very low hygroscopicity, even bordering on hydrophobicity.
• Quite low thermal conductivity, amounting to 0.05 ÷ 0.07 W / m × ° C.
• Easy to install on interfloor ceilings due to its low weight. In addition, most of the manufactured panels have a special locking part, which makes it possible to easily combine them into a single coating with seams blocked from cold bridges.
• Resistance to deformation - the material is so strong that it is used for underground insulation of foundations or laid under a concrete screed.
• Resistant to inorganic chemicals.
• Durability in operation with proper installation and subsequent lining of insulation.
• If the extruded polystyrene foam has received good external protection, then it is non-toxic, so how does not decompose and does not emit harmful substances.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene inherent in both types include:

• Sufficiently high flammability of the material. Both types are marked G4 or G 3. Often there is no marking on the packaging that gives information about its characteristics, and it is recommended to immediately refuse to buy such a material - it is possible that it has not undergone appropriate processing and may ignite from a lower heat than the manufactured one in the factory.
• The material does not like high temperatures - already at + 75 - 80 ° WITH the beginning of thermal deformation is not excluded.
• When ignited, expanded polystyrene begins to melt, acquires fluidity, thereby spreading fire to neighboring materials. This is especially dangerous when installing it on the ceiling.

• The smoke of burning foam is extremely dangerous not only for health, but also for human life, as it contains highly toxic substances that can cause extensive chemical burns of the respiratory system, lead to damage to the central nervous system.
• After a certain time, low-quality expanded polystyrene by itself begins to decompose, emitting harmful toxic substances that can penetrate the decorative cladding and even through the brickwork of the walls.
• Expanded polystyrene is extremely unstable when exposed to ultraviolet rays, therefore it cannot be kept in the open sun for a long time or without external finishing.
• This insulation dissolves on contact with organic compounds such as ethyl alcohol, turpentine, gasoline, acetone and others.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is made from clay of fusible rocks - it is molded and fired at very high temperatures, over 1000 degrees. The main advantage of this insulation is its environmental friendliness, since no foreign impurities are used in its production.

One of the most popular heaters is expanded clay

Expanded clay is used to insulate different parts of the house, including the ceiling. It is often used in combination with other insulation materials to enhance the heat preservation effect and protect living quarters from external noise.

Expanded clay is produced in different fractions - it can be granules of 20 ÷ 40, 10 ÷ 20 mm in size, finer gravel or even sand. Rejected granules, which cracked during firing, are usually ground into sand.

In addition to environmental friendliness, expanded clay has other positive qualities that can become indispensable when insulating a ceiling in a wooden house:

Its complete incombustibility will make the insulation safe, low thermal conductivity and porous structure will create reliable protection against cold and external noise penetration into the house. Although expanded clay is somewhat hygroscopic, it will not absorb moisture unless exposed to spilled water. This means that even high atmospheric humidity will not be able to reduce its thermal insulation qualities.

Due to the same qualities, the material is durable, its service life is practically unlimited. And one more important advantage - insects will never settle in this material.

The porous structure makes the insulation light in weight - it is easy to lift it to the attic floor. In addition, it is extremely easy to install - you just need to sprinkle it on the prepared surface and distribute it evenly over it. The preparation of the overlap for backfill is also simple - it is covered with a vapor barrier film or well coated with clay or lime mortar. When the solution is dry, you can start backfilling expanded clay.

If the winter temperatures of the region where the insulated building is located are very low, then mineral wool mats can be additionally laid on the expanded clay poured between the ceiling beams.

Video: how to insulate the ceiling on your own

After completing the installation of the ceiling, and reliably insulating it, you can proceed to the decorative design of the very front surface of the ceiling.

Ceiling decoration

A wooden ceiling can be decorated with a wide variety of materials. The finishing process facilitates the pliability of the wood - any brackets for installing panels or drywall can be attached to it without any problems, as well as shingles for applying, for example, a clay layer, and then plaster.

Clapboard sheathing

Some home owners prefer to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard in a complex with walls. Such cladding can be made of natural wood, or the same from polymers or composites - PVC, laminated panels based on fiberboard, etc.

The ceiling cladding should not be too heavy, therefore, if a wooden lining is chosen, then a thickness of no more than 10 ÷ 15 mm, intended specifically for the ceiling. It is recommended to cover the panels before installation, and after installation - with water-based varnish or water-based paint.

The plastic lining itself is lightweight, and is designed for installation on the ceiling, so you only have to choose the color of the material.

Laminated panels are also lightweight and will not create problems during installation. They are produced with various patterns that can imitate the textured pattern of wood or stone.

Lining made of laminated fiberboard (MDF)

• The assembly of these materials takes place, in principle, according to the same technology. The only question to be solved is how the finishing material will be mounted: directly on the ceiling boards or on the fixed crate.

The last option is usually chosen in cases where the goal is set - additionally or to level its surface.

• The lathing can also be mounted in different ways - it is screwed directly to the ceiling surface or lowered by 100 ÷ 150 mm, fixing guides made of beams or metal profiles to the suspensions for fixing drywall.

Parallel guides of the battens are fixed with a step of 500 ÷ 600 mm. After completing their installation, proceed to the installation of the lining.

• On the wooden lathing, the trim is fixed using special clamps, which are put on the lining spikes, and then attached to the guides with studs or thin self-tapping screws.

• Installation of lining panels starts from the wall, and it is very important to set the first one as evenly as possible, since both the fit and the appearance of the entire resulting coating depend on it.

• If not a timber, but a metal profile is used for the lathing, then the panels are attached to it using self-tapping screws screwed through the clamps or directly through the lining spike.

After finishing the walls and ceilings, at the junction of the finishing materials, which will give the entire cladding completeness.

Sheathing with sheet material

Plasterboard and plywood (or OSB) can be attributed to the sheet material that enhances the surface of the ceiling. They, like the lining, can be fixed to the lathing or directly to the hemmed ceiling.

Both plywood and drywall are mounted for additional finishing:

• Plywood is first putty at the joints - for this, a special wood putty is selected (if for painting, then it is better -) - and let it dry. Then primed and covered with water-based paint or varnish.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, real or false beams are mounted below the plywood ceiling. For them, light, well-dried wood or hollow polymer elements are selected.

Decorative plastic hollow "bars" for false beams

• Drywall after fixing also spattered at the joints and in the places where self-tapping screws are screwed, but for this, a gypsum-based mixture is used. Then the seams are cleaned, the surface is primed and painted, pasted over with ordinary or liquid wallpaper.

The use of these materials in a suspended structure allows you to make two- and even three-tiered, and not only with regular rectangular details, , but also with smooth curved shapes.

Video: how a wooden ceiling is sheathed with plasterboard

Facing ceiling tiles

• Decorated with a wooden ceiling and polystyrene foam tiles, which are glued to a special polymer glue applied along the edges in a dotted manner. This type of tiles is very lightweight, and they easily stick to a flat ceiling.

Installation of plastic tiles on the surface of a plywood ceiling

Plates are produced in a variety of ways - with a smooth white surface, with a relief pattern or applied to a texture that imitates a particular material (wood or finishing stone), and can also have a relief that repeats the ceiling stucco molding.

Video, finishing the ceiling with expanded polystyrene tiles

• In addition, ceiling tiles are made of PVC - they are also mounted on polymer glue. This finish is also lightweight and easy to install.
• Wooden finishing panels are quite expensive. But if they are the ones who are able to transform the interior, then it is worth installing them, especially since options with a variety of embossed patterns and shades are on sale. Wooden slabs are fixed with self-tapping screws, the head of which is recessed into the thickness of the material, and the holes are then sealed with masking chops, matched to the color.

Wooden decorative panels give the ceiling an exceptionally "rich" look

Today, there are no special problems with the acquisition of any vending material for finishing the ceiling of a wooden house. It is important to correctly compose sketch of the interior that I would like to receive, indicate on it where and what kind of finishing material will be located. Then, it remains to visit a specialized store, inquire about the assortment and pick everything up, relying on a personally drawn up project. After that, you can proceed to, which will allow you to hide small flaws made in the process of installing the ceiling structure itself.

Of course, not every real estate owner can afford to equip a ceiling made of wood, but such designs are gathering fans faster and faster. The choice of wooden materials is quite wide, ranging from various types of wood to cladding (bars, panels, beams, slats, boards). Exclusive wooden ceilings are considered ideal for a solid home or apartment.

Features of wooden ceilings

There are many different solutions for arranging the ceiling: aluminum, plasterboard, adhesive and tension. However, only wooden ceilings have no competitors in most indicators. Naturally, coffered wooden ceilings, which are sheathed with solid wood, look elegant and respectable, but the imitation of a bar on the ceiling looks no less aesthetically pleasing.

Wood is a very affordable and very easy-to-work material that provides excellent sound and thermal insulation and simply adds coziness to the room. Of course, some are guilty of the price of wooden ceilings. But famous designers say that today it is not wood finishing that is expensive, but only materials for processing the ceiling: primer, putty, varnish.

Many people believe that the tree is intended exclusively for cottages, country private houses and expensive restaurants, but with the right choice of finishing material, it can also be used in an apartment.

There may be a misconception that wood ceilings are only suitable for completely dry rooms (bedroom, living room, hallway), however, thanks to the latest processing technology and the correct knowledge of the installation of wooden elements, it became possible to use wood for finishing ceilings in the kitchen and in the bathroom. A wooden ceiling is often installed in the attic, in the sauna and steam bath.

At the same time, it is recommended to be able to choose the right material. When buying wood panels or planks, pay attention to which part of the wood they are made from. If the board is cut from the core of the trunk, it will crack faster. But the boards that are cut from the edge of the tree will last much longer. But if you are interested in the waterproofness of the material, then here it is just recommended to give preference to boards from the core.

Remember that the details for finishing the ceiling should not be bulky. It is necessary to choose wooden elements that are no more than 25 millimeters thick, and they are 1 meter and 6.5 meters long. When buying material for arranging the ceiling in a room with high humidity, you need to use panels that are treated from all sides, including grooves, with a special water-repellent wax, and during installation, leave small ventilation gaps between the panels.

Wooden elements

Of course, pine wood ceilings are the most popular, but more and more other types of wood have recently been used for such work. For example, in some countries, special pecky wood is used for the manufacture of wooden ceilings, which can give a ceiling made of it a special charm due to the presence of small pockmarks in it. The cladding of the wooden ceiling in the apartment is carried out using various elements, including edging, lining, and a specially processed slab.

Plywood

Plywood is a material consisting of several layers of wood that are superimposed on each other, wear-resistant and durable. It is easy to paint, process, and light tinting is able to vividly reflect the natural composition of the wood itself. And with the help of special processing solutions used as impregnation, plywood can become resistant to moisture penetration on its surface. Depending on the shape and size of plywood sheets, wooden ceilings are varied.

Cladding boards

Ceiling slabs made of wood of any valuable species are produced in a huge assortment. There are even samples on sale that are completely impregnated with wood wax. They are great for kitchen or bathroom installations because they are waterproof. Moreover, these plates are immune to dirt, do not crack or delaminate, therefore they require a minimum of your attention.

Panels

The most beautiful layer in such details is the front one, for its manufacture they take the most expensive types of wood, and the other two layers are made from more common and less expensive species - pine or spruce. The layers are bonded at the factory using the latest technology under the influence of high temperature and high pressure. The popularity of the panels is high due to their good quality, durability, spectacular appearance, speed and ease of installation, as well as ease of maintenance.

Lining

Clapboards, edged boards or finishing slabs are traditional and time-tested finishing materials that are easy to cover. Core planks are difficult to handle and often crack, but are exceptionally water-repellent. Boards from the edge of the trunk are much easier to handle and will not crack.

Wood wallpaper

When arranging the ceiling, wooden wallpapers have always been appreciated for their graceful texture and beauty. This is a rather promising innovation that has combined panels and standard wallpapers, infinitely expanding design possibilities. Veneer wallpaper usually has a thickness of up to 1.56 millimeters, they are made from valuable wood, gluing veneer on paper wallpaper. Wallpaper in sheets or rolls made of cork does not absorb odors, is easily cleaned of dirt and provides good sound insulation. But moisture intolerance and fire hazard limit the place of use of all wooden wallpaper.

Ceiling fillet

The fillet is a wood plinth. Only wooden fillets have undeniable advantages over any others: unique strength, natural color, amazing durability. They successfully emphasize the design of the wood ceiling and hide possible flaws in our work. Since they are up to 120 millimeters long, the number of joints is significantly reduced during ceiling sheathing. In addition, you can choose laminated or veneered fillets, and attach them with nails, screws with plugs, clips or "liquid" nails of your choice.

Timber imitation

Another popular option for finishing the ceiling with wood is imitation of a bar. This material has some similarities with the clapboard, judging by the photo of wooden ceilings, and is a planed sheathing board, but wider and more massive. Consider this when creating an indoor interior!

False beams

Among the wooden elements of false ceilings, a special place is occupied by decorative false beams, which have a number of advantages over conventional structures. Lightness, simplicity of product and installation, high durability turn false beams into a popular decorative material. Inside such beams, you can hide electrical wiring, Internet wires and antennas. Electric lamps are perfectly mounted in them. With proper placement, decorative beams can optically expand the space or raise the ceiling.

Arrangement of a wooden ceiling

Before installing the suspended wood ceiling, please note that after installing all the structural elements, the height of the room will decrease by about 10-15 centimeters. Therefore, it is imperative that you make sure that this ceiling finish is suitable for the height of the walls of your house. First you need to make a wiring plan, designate the location of the lamp and other electrical appliances. Well, go ahead!

Preliminary work

To install a wooden ceiling, you will need the following materials: imitation of a bar or lining made of coniferous wood, slats 40 by 20, screws 2.5 by 25, impact dowel 6 by 60, block house lining, thick fishing line, decorative strip, varnish or paint. Before finishing the ceiling with wood, the surface must be insulated. To do this, you will need steam-waterproofing materials, pegamine or roofing material, polyurethane foam, slab, insulation, nails, fiberboard or drywall.

The first step is to create a vapor barrier layer. To do this, select a material from the list: vapor barrier film, polymer membranes, foil insulation. Place the material of choice between the ceiling beams lengthwise, leaving an overlap at the height of the beam. Insulation materials are fixed with a construction stapler or paper clips.

After that, choose a heater: you can use mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene, ecowool, expanded clay. After choosing, you need to lay the insulation flush with the floor beams. Cover the insulation with waterproofing material on top. Remember that ecowool does not need an additional protective film. Lay a slab shield on top of the waterproofing material - across the ceiling beams.

This method of arranging the shield helps to ensure that when repairing the roof, you will be able to move around without creating additional loads on the ceiling shield. A serious matter is the procedure for insulating the ceiling near the chimney. Of course, if your house does not have an attic, and the chimney runs through your attic.

Choose a material that is non-flammable and can withstand temperatures in the order of 200 degrees Celsius. The layer of insulating material along the perimeter of the chimney in the place where it goes to the attic should be at least 25-30 centimeters. Also place an asbestos spacer between the ceiling beams and the insulation.

If the house has an attic, then it is not necessary to insulate the ceiling, but it is advisable to put a layer of sound insulation. You can use materials at hand, such as a mixture of lime and sawdust or a layer of dry sand. Then you can start creating the lathing and sheathing of the ceiling with wood, which will not take much of your time.

Wood ceiling decoration

The technology for installing a suspended ceiling made of wood is similar to plastering the surface with plasterboard, but the material must be fastened not to an aluminum frame, but to a wooden one. Therefore, arranging a wooden ceiling with your own hands, you must first mount a wooden crate, keeping a distance of 30 centimeters between the slats.

For the manufacture of lathing, it is recommended to use a rail of 20 by 40 millimeters. Stretch thick fishing line in the middle and around the edges of the ceiling using a spirit level. The slats are attached along a stretched line without bending it. The first plank is placed close to one wall. With standard ceiling sheathing (across or along the plane), the battens must be fixed in the perpendicular direction to the board anchorage.

For planking at an acute 45 degree angle, attach the planks around the entire perimeter. For a perfectly even placement of the planks, it is recommended, along with using a level to the joists, to put pieces of boards under the fastening areas of the planks. After installing the rack frame, you can start creating the ceiling. Measure the required length of the boards and cut off the excess.

Hide the electricity lines under the clapboard. For this, it is customary to use a stranded copper wire with a power reserve that does not heat up. Places for lighting and other electrical appliances should also be designated. The timber false ceiling is attached to the ceiling panel. When decorating the ceiling with such panels, you should create a small indent from the wall of the house in a couple of millimeters, giving space for the tree to shrink and its possibility of compression-expansion.

Now we come to the main question, how to make a wooden ceiling using lining. The lining is attached to the slats with self-tapping screws. So that the self-tapping screws are not visible, they should be fixed in the lining groove. If the installation with self-tapping screws is not hidden, then it is better to scatter them over the entire surface of the ceiling.

Also, in order to make the fastening invisible and not to spoil the overall impression with nail heads, the sheathing can simply be glued with high-quality glue to the board crate. Some craftsmen prefer to create a fastener using screws. If you use their decorative counterparts instead of ordinary nails, this will give the interior a kind of zest.

After installing wooden elements on the ceiling, they should be varnished or painted. If you are not satisfied with the shade of the lining and you want to change it, then you can use special dyes that preserve the natural texture of the wood and saturate the material with natural shades of oak, walnut, pine. The surface dries very quickly.

When choosing varnish for lining, try not to use glossy varnishes, because shiny ceilings tire your eyesight and are not a sign of excellent taste. After applying the first layer and completely drying the surface, it is recommended to wipe it with fine-grained sandpaper called "zero" to remove air bubbles and small lint. The procedure should be repeated 2-3 times.

You just have to think again what kind of ceiling you want to make, because the choice of wooden products is quite wide. Maybe it will be a clapboard familiar to all of us, or would you prefer wooden wallpaper? Do not forget that all kinds of panels and slabs for cladding, plywood, imitation of timber are presented on the market. In addition, you can always equip false beams on the surface, which cannot be distinguished from real ones by eye. In any case, such a ceiling will look respectable, recalling the excellent taste of the owners.

Wooden ceilings are installed in cottages, rural houses and country houses, less often in city apartments. The most valuable property of a tree is the fact that you can make almost anything out of it. And decorative coatings or decorative elements can be made just great.

To begin with, wood ceilings have a number of advantages over other types of ceilings.

Wood is a warm, living material. It creates an atmosphere of comfort and coziness in the house. In addition, wood has good sound insulation, dampens noise, softens and diffuses the harsh light of lamps. The wooden covering retains heat well, does not change its properties at low temperatures.

Materials for wooden ceilings

Lining (facing shaped board) is a popular material for the manufacture of wooden ceilings. The boards fit tightly to each other, since there is a groove on one side of the plank, and on the other - a ledge of rectangular cross-section (spike, ridge).

The ceiling assembled from such material turns out to be smooth and neat. The lining is attached to the base (lattice) with self-tapping screws, brackets and nails. No traces of fasteners are visible on the front side of the boards.

Wooden lining is made from pine, birch, cedar, aspen, beech, ash, spruce and other tree species. The front side of the board can be flat (straight) or rounded.

The price of a material depends on its quality. The quality reflects the class of the product.

1. Lining of class "Extra"(or "Zero") is made of smooth, clean wood that is free from knots and other imperfections.
2. Lining of class "A" practically does not contain traces of knots (for every one and a half meters of length, there may be one “live” knot in it). For a length of 1.5 meters, the board may contain 2 resin pockets and 2 cracks (not through).
3. Class "B" board may contain 4 knots per one and a half meters in length, 2 resin pockets and 2 cracks (not through), one spot of contrasting color and traces of minor mechanical damage.
4. Class "C" board in addition to the above defects, it may contain stripes that differ from the color of the main background, and traces of mechanical damage.

Class "C" lining has conspicuous disadvantages

Lining board made of coniferous and deciduous trees is used for finishing living rooms, and for finishing rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, saunas - only hardwood boards are used. Hardwood board does not emit tar and does not darken.

The lining profile determines the features of the material exploitation and the field of application.

1. Plain lining (panel)- shaped board with a groove and a spike on the long sides of the bar.
2. Euro lining- a shaped board with a deep groove and a high ridge on the long sides of the bar. Shelves are made in the boards, there are grooves (grooves) on the seamy side. This shape allows the board to be well ventilated and allow moisture to evaporate.
3. American- lining of the original section, used mainly for finishing the outer walls of buildings. The boards overlap each other, which is why rainwater flows down and does not get inside the walls. There are usually no additional ventilation grooves on the back of the boards.
4. Calm- smooth lining without a shelf on the front side. It is used exclusively for interior decoration, as it allows you to get an even ceiling.
5. Block house- lining with a convex, rounded front side and a flat seamy side.

Table. Sizes and types of lining.

Types and material of wooden lining		Length	Overall width	Thickness	Spike height
Plain lining made of wood (GOST 8242-88)	Aspen lining	1 to 3 meters	96 mm	12.5 to 15 mm	4-5 mm
	Pine lining	0.5 to 3 meters	50 to 108 mm	12.5 to 15 mm	4-5 mm
	Oak lining	1 to 3 meters	50 to 108 mm	12.5 to 15 mm	4 mm
Euro lining		Up to 6 meters	80, 100, 110, 120 mm	13, 16, 19 mm	8-9 mm

GOST 8242-88. “Profile parts made of wood and wood-based materials for construction. Technical conditions ". File to download.

Wooden panels can be rack, sheet and type-setting. Their sizes vary within wide limits.

Table. Types of wood finishing panels.

Panel types	Length	Width	Thickness
Rack and pinion	2.4 to 3.7 m	12.5 to 30 cm	0.8 to 1.2 cm
Typesetting	30 to 98 cm	30 to 98 cm	0.8 to 1.2 cm
Leafy	2.44 m	1.22 m	0.3 to 0.6 cm

For the manufacture of solid panels any type of wood is used, most often on sale you can find panels made of cedar, alder, oak, pine and maple. They are made of well dried material and treated with a mastic that enhances and enhances the beauty of the wood.

Three-layer sandwich panels made of wood. The front side is made of beautiful, valuable species of trees, the inner and lower layers are made of conifers, most often pine wood. The layers are firmly glued together with synthetic resins. Carving or embossing, polymer glossy coating can be applied to the surface of solid and sandwich panels. The panels are laminated, covered with veneer, varnish, wax.

(chipboard) consists of sawdust and shavings held together with a special glue (synthetic resin).

Fiberboard(fibreboard) is composed of compressed cellulose fibers and synthetic polymers.

MDF the slab consists of small sawdust held together by lignin.

A thin slab of veneer layers glued together. Plywood consists of an odd number of layers, there can be three, five or more. The veneer is glued with special adhesives that give the material moisture resistance. For finishing works, laminated plywood of increased moisture resistance is produced. Plywood is made from softwood and birch.

They can be glued to the prepared base, and not only to the walls, but also to the ceiling. They are made from a thin layer of valuable wood species. The veneer is glued to the paper. These wallpapers can be combined with wooden beams and columns.

Solid wood ceiling beams are often elements of the main structure of the house. Sometimes additional beams are also installed, if this is provided for by the developed design. The beams are made from the same wood as the main elements of the ceiling.

False beams- hollow structures made of polyurethane, covered with wood veneer or plastic sheathing imitating wood. allow you to hide water pipes, wires and other communication elements.

The tree does not like moisture, is "afraid" of bark beetles and mold. In addition, dried wood burns well. But these problems can be solved by treating the ceiling and beams with WOODMASTER KORD, Fenilaks, KSD, Pirilaks, Biopiren MIG-09, Karbeks, VUPROTEK-2 fire-retardant agents.

Fire-retardant composition for wood WoodMaster "KORD"

Ceiling insulation materials

The design of the house can provide for the insulation of the main ceiling, especially if the decorative ceiling is brought under the roof rafters and copies its conical shape. In this case, the insulation is mounted under the roof slopes.

Until recently, only Styrofoam, mineral wool and glass wool... Now a new generation of materials has appeared that make thermal insulation faster and of better quality.

The insulation proved to be good in operation basalt wool... It is sold in the form of slabs, which are then cut into pieces of the desired size. Foil-covered basalt wool is produced in rolls. The foil is designed to keep moisture out of the insulation. It must be said that before proceeding with the insulation of the main one and the construction of a decorative ceiling, you need to make sure that the roof does not leak, and, if necessary, repair it.

Another modern insulation - penoizol... This is urea-formaldehyde foam, which is obtained by foaming the resin. The foam is created using special equipment and pumped into the cavities behind the rafters and insulation. To fix the insulation, a special inner crate is made, covered with thick plastic or other material that can hold the foam until it hardens. The foam is able to penetrate into empty cavities and gaps between insulation boards, creating a complete tightness and providing ideal thermal insulation.

Features of the interior with a wooden ceiling

When equipping a wooden ceiling, you need to remember a few rules that will help create a unique and harmonious interior.

1. If the wood ceiling is black or very dark, then the walls, windows and doors should be light or white. The exception is the room in which it is planned to create a dark, "harsh" design.
2. A dark ceiling made of wood panels and beams can be lightened by the correct placement of the fixtures. Sometimes additional windows are made on the ceiling through which natural light penetrates.
3. To visually lighten the wooden ceiling, use the narrowest false beams.
4. Beams located across the room visually make it narrower. Beams along the narrow room will make it longer.

Wooden ceiling in different interior styles

Using wood for the construction of the ceiling, you can not only decorate the interior in a traditional or modern style, but also create your own, unique design.

Provence- a traditional architectural style dominated by simple shapes and muted pastel colors. The overall light background of the interior includes bright decorative elements (flowers, dishes). The wooden ceiling, painted with light paint, in combination with the protruding ceiling beams, is a harmonious part of the Provence style interior.

Country or rustic style. This style combines simplicity and tradition. Wooden ceiling cladding goes well with simple plastered walls, in which brick or stone inserts are sometimes made.

For a country-style room, a smooth or uneven wooden ceiling, beams and columns will be appropriate. The tree can be intensely tinted, and the very design of the room can be deliberately rough and as natural as possible.

Deconstructivism- a new direction in architecture and design. The style is characterized by broken, destructive forms that create a "harmony of chaos". The interior decoration of the premises allows you to combine a wide variety of materials. For example, a wooden ceiling can be supported by metal beams and columns. A dwelling in this style is designed by lovers of experiments and opponents of tradition.

Wooden ceiling in a room made in the style Art Deco, provides for painting wooden beams, columns and the ceiling itself in bright, contrasting colors. For example, the ceiling can be white or gray, and the beams and columns can be red or ultramarine. This design is popular with children and adolescents.

In the premises made in classic style, the coffered ceiling looks good. Wooden panels are in cells made of planks, carved hollow beams, figured boards, and other material. The classic color of this interior is white.

Wooden ceilings are good for spaces made in styles ecodesign and zen design... To create these styles, only natural, environmentally friendly materials are used.

Lighting fixtures for wood ceiling

Wooden suspended ceilings allow you to use any kind of lighting fixtures. When installing ceilings on a frame made of beams (crate), a sufficiently large space (from 5 cm) remains behind the clapboard and panels, which allows you to hide the electrical wires and lamp bases. Therefore, not only pendant lamps are installed on wooden ceilings, but also.

Do-it-yourself wooden ceiling installation

Wooden ceilings can be suspended or hemmed. Sewn ceilings are made of lining, solid panels, type-set glued sandwich panels, plywood. The panels go well with real or decorative beams.

A stitched ceiling made of chopped beams looks beautiful and unusual. The wooden block is split along its length, the smooth side is attached to the frame (lattice). The untreated part is the front.

Coffered ceilings are assembled from cells separated by protruding "honeycombs" and can be suspended or hemmed. Suspended coffered ceilings are assembled on a metal frame from panels and strips. Panels can be not only square and rectangular, but also round.

Coffered ceilings are usually installed in rooms with high heights. In rooms with high ceilings, caissons reduce the echo effect and help control the level of noise emitted from other rooms. More details - in!

For self-installation of a wooden ceiling you will need:

• hammer;
• hacksaw;
• building level (water or laser)
• roulette;
• drill;
• punch;
• curly screwdrivers;
• construction cord;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• ladder.

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation from lining

Step 1... Ceiling preparation. The ceiling is cleaned of elements of the old finish, if necessary, leveled and insulated.

Step 2. Processing of wooden elements of the ceiling (floors, rafters) with a fire retardant composition.

Step 3. Fastening a film for vapor barrier to the main ceiling (if internal insulation was carried out). The foil covers the insulation or is applied directly to the main ceiling.

Note! The vapor barrier is made with an overlap, the joints along the length are glued with double-sided tape. When installing the vapor barrier, it is important to read the instructions so as not to confuse the sides of the material.

Step 4. On the ceiling, markings are made for a frame made of beams. The optimal size of the cross-section of the beams is 30x30 mm or 20x40 mm. It is advisable to cover the bars with linseed oil or a primer so that they are not subject to moisture and deformation.

Step 5. The beams are attached to the main ceiling using dowels or turboprops.

Note! With the help of a building level, it is necessary to ensure that the lattice of beams is strictly parallel to the floor. If necessary, wooden or plastic wedges are brought under the beams. If the deviation from the horizontal is small, adjust the tension of the screws.

Step 6. After measuring the beams, the lining is measured and the boards of the required length are sawed off. The lining must be clean and dry. If you nail down a damp lining, then after drying (for example, from the heat of the stove), cracks will go through the wood.

Step 7. The lining is fixed to the ceiling using nails for hidden fasteners (40 mm long) and self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be deeply sunk into the wood and masked.

Step 8. In the corners, at the joints of the walls and ceiling, skirting boards are nailed or glued.

Note! In newly built houses, a gap of at least 1.5 cm must be left between the clapboard and the walls of the building, since the new house shrinks for several years (1.5 years or more). If the lining is laid figuratively, you need an accurate calculation for joining the corners.

Video - DIY installation of lining on the ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of a ceiling made of wooden panels

Wooden panels made using modern technologies do not shrink, so they can be mounted end-to-end. There are grooved panels on sale with ridges and grooves at the ends, which greatly facilitates installation and makes the ceiling perfectly flat. For the ceiling, panels are produced with a thickness of 0.7 to 14 mm. Installation of panels is carried out in several stages.

Step 1. Ceiling preparation (includes cleaning the surface of the main ceiling, which is primed if necessary).

Step 2. Fastening to the main ceiling of a lattice made of beams or slats. The bars (slats) of the lattice are spaced farther from each other than the bars mounted to fasten the lining. The bars are attached to self-tapping screws or other fasteners in parallel at a distance of 35-50 cm from one another.

Note! For damp rooms, it is better to mount an aluminum profile grille.

Step 3. Installation of the mounting plate. The fastening bar is a profile, in cross-section, which is a corner. One side of the plank is attached to the grille. The other side has a groove in which the ceiling plinth will be fixed.

When fixing the plinth in the strip, a recess is obtained into which the panels will be inserted. Self-tapping screws with a washer are attached to the lattice along the entire perimeter of the room. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the bar every 20-30 cm.

Step 4. Fixing the ceiling plinth. The skirting board is measured and cut to the required length. Corners are attached to it (for fixing in the corners of the room). Then the skirting board snaps into the groove of the strip.

Step 5. Installation of panels. The first panel is inserted into the recess (groove) between the skirting board and the fixing strip and trimmed with slight pressure. The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws with a wide press washer to the lattice. The second and subsequent panels are inserted and fixed with ridges in the grooves.

Step 6. Installation of the extreme row of panels. When installing the extreme panels, they are cut with a saw to the desired width and installed in the same way as the previous ones.

Note! In some cells, you can put not panels, but glass, and then install lamps behind them and, creating original lighting.

Video - Wooden ceiling in the house

Installation helps to decorate the interior. The most in demand are filing wooden ceilings. The structure got its name due to the method of fixing the panels from below to the ceiling ceiling. They are installed in rooms with wooden and concrete floors.

Basic techniques

Experts identify several technologies for the manufacture of such structures. The most famous are hemmed and coffered ceilings. In the first version, lining or euro lining is used. Boards are made from linden, coniferous wood or oak. They are attached to the floor frame and the spike is connected to the groove. The design resembles a lining of the ceiling with clapboard, but instead of individual boards, whole panels are attached.

Decorative ceilings are made of shields. The constructions are covered with expensive wood veneer and have an attractive appearance. A relief hemmed ceiling is constructed from a chopped beam. A rectangular blank is split lengthwise and fixed to the frame with a smooth surface. Visible chips create a unique pattern on the ceiling.

Caisson structures are assembled from box-shaped modules, which are called caissons. Their production technology is the most complex, and the look of the finished structure is spectacular. Experts point out the following advantages of such a finish:

• durability with appropriate wood care;
• resistance to environmental influences;
• environmental friendliness: wood and impregnations do not contain toxic substances;
• high degree of sound and heat insulation;
• attractiveness: experts do not recommend painting wood, it is opened with colorless varnish.

The disadvantages of the considered design are:

• exposure to fungi, wood-boring beetles: wood panels must be treated with special compounds;
• flammability: dry wood ignites easily, it is necessary to apply a fire-retardant mixture;
• high price.

You can save on the cost of the structure if you independently complete the finishing work.

Back to the table of contents

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting the installation of a wooden ceiling, preparatory work is carried out. Since after laying the panels, the height of the room will decrease by 10-15 cm, experts recommend taking measurements in advance and making sure that the height of the walls in the room allows for such a finish.

A wiring plan will be required, on which the locations of the lighting fixtures are indicated. To install a wooden ceiling, you will need the following materials and tools:

• lining made of coniferous wood or imitation of a bar;
• screws 2.5x25;
• slats 40x20;
• block house lining;
• impact dowel 6x60;
• bar;
• fishing line;
• paints and varnishes.

Before starting finishing work, the surface is insulated using material for steam and waterproofing, mounting foam, roofing material or glassine, insulation, slab, drywall or fiberboard and nails.

The first step is to create a vapor barrier. Suitable materials for this:

1. Polymeric membranes.
2. Vapor barrier film.
3. Foil insulation.

The material is placed between the beams along, with an overlap to the height of the beam. Fastening is performed with a construction stapler or paper clips. The next stage is the choice of insulation. To do this, you can use glass wool, ecowool, expanded clay, mineral wool and foam. A layer of insulation is laid flush with the floor beams. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top. The use of ecowool eliminates the need for a protective film. A slab shield is laid across the beams on the waterproofing layer.

The use of such an arrangement of the shield allows, if the need to repair the roof arises, to move along it, protecting the shield from additional loads. Experts advise to insulate well the ceiling in the area of ​​the chimney if the attic is absent and the chimney channel passes through the attic.

It is recommended to use a non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures up to 200 °. The insulation layer around the entire perimeter of the chimney and at the point of its exit should be at least 25-30 cm. It is recommended to make an asbestos gasket between the insulation layer and the beams.

It is not necessary to lay a layer of insulation, if the attic is equipped, but it is recommended to make a layer of sound insulation. To do this, use dry sand or sawdust mixed with lime.

Modern building materials and technologies allow for various types of ceilings. Design approaches and individual preferences help to choose a coating from drywall, wallpaper, tension or suspended structures. Recently, wood ceilings have become very popular. This material allows you to make the room more comfortable.

Advantages and disadvantages

The return to the old way of finishing ceilings can be explained by the following advantages:

• the structure of the tree is able to retain heat for a long time;
• naturalness;
• environmental friendliness;
• under the ceiling made of wood, you do not need to prepare the surface for finishing;
• under it you can lay cables and hide the wiring;
• such a ceiling is not afraid of shrinkage of a wooden house;
• wet cleaning is more accessible;
• improves sound insulation;
• wood brings coziness and comfort to any interior;
• the ability to solve any interesting ideas.

And the main disadvantage of a wooden ceiling is the danger of damage by insects and fungi. But this disadvantage can be avoided by choosing the right wood and formulations for its processing. Another negative point is fire hazard.

Wood is a very flammable material, so you cannot do without proper processing.

High-quality material for finishing the ceiling will not be cheap. Installation services will also be expensive, because it is better to hire real professionals so that the structure will serve for a long time and reliably.

Views

The ceiling made of wood is divided into hemmed and suspended. It is the last option that is more often used, since it is easier to install (due to the fact that it is not necessary to pre-level the surface). For hemming, it should be perfectly flat.

You can make a wooden ceiling from any type of material; there are also panels that imitate the pattern of natural wood. They are made from MDF.

Sewn wood ceilings

There is a certain way of laying the panels, which provides for their installation from the bottom of the wooden structure, that is, they are "hemmed" to it. The designs may differ depending on the material.

This could be:

1. Chipped timber. Covering with such a decor element will create a relief on the ceiling. Its unique pattern is determined by chips on the uneven bars. They are blanks, split in half lengthwise, which are attached with the smooth side to the frame.
2. Panels. By design, such a ceiling made of wood resembles clapboarding, with the difference that small pieces of expensive and rare species are attached to a large shield, which is fixed to the surface.
3. Caisson option. This type of decorative ceiling decoration stands apart from everyone else, because it is assembled from special box-shaped modules. Such a decorative ceiling made of wood looks impressive, but it is very difficult to perform and requires a lot of labor and material costs. Not everyone can afford this solution, so it is worth considering the options for imitating a tree, which are presented in a wide range.
4. Euro or just lining. These are the most popular ceilings. All thanks to the ease of installation. Such a structure can be made of any kind of wood: pine, oak, linden, etc.

Design solutions

The interior looks very impressive, in which the ceiling is made of "antique" wood.

Its combination with walls and floors evokes a medieval feel. Such premises are often used for restaurants and hotels. All because of wood, which gives endless possibilities for execution, as it is a very malleable and flexible material. An artificial one can give a unique effect. It can be made in several ways - using parquet or edged boards.

A decorative wooden ceiling is not only beautiful, but also very expensive. Not everyone can afford such a luxury. But this does not mean that a simple living room in an apartment cannot be finished with such material. It is not necessary to use unique wood in the interior. You can do with a simple clapboard, which, with proper installation, will look very impressive.

Ceiling and walls

Wood can be harmoniously combined with walls, using natural materials for finishing the latter (ideally also wood).

The color of the walls will give contrast to the interior. You can use a combined option, when one part is made to match the ceiling, and the other is in contrast. Sometimes applying drywall to walls or plastering works well.

Natural wood goes well with stone. It can be accentuated on a small part of the wall. Natural stone can be successfully replaced with artificial one.

Wooden houses with ceilings in the same material are becoming classics. In this case, it will not be superfluous to combine walls with it. It is worth thinking about the purpose of the room in which the wooden ceiling structure will be installed. If this is a bathroom, then you can pick up decorative tiles on the walls. Its color scheme should match the ceiling.

If the high-tech style is applied in the interior, then wood can be combined with metal.

If natural material cannot be used for any reason, then you should pay attention to the wood-like ceiling. It is finished with other materials, but has an original drawing.

Installation of a wooden frame

Before installing wood coverings, you need to prepare the surface:

• the remnants of the finish must be carefully removed;
• over the floor, an additional layer of waterproofing is needed, because wood is a material that is highly susceptible to moisture.
• when the base is made of wood, treatment with anti-fire compounds is needed;
• the overlap is marked for even installation of the structure. The marking step will depend on the upholstery material;
• the frame is best made of beams 30X30mm. They should be treated with special compounds that will give the material resistance to moisture and swelling;
• you need to fix the bars with special fasteners in the form of turboprop or dowels;
• after installing the frame, its flatness should be checked.

Next comes the wood sheathing, the material of which is cut to size. The panels are fixed on the bars with nails for concealed installation, while for reliability, the nail should be driven in at a slight angle.

The panels should not fit very tightly to each other, as they need space for deformation during operation and exposure to temperature changes. Where additional load is possible, it is better to secure the structure with additional self-tapping screws.

The last step will be impregnation with a protective compound and varnishing. With the subsequent coloring, there is no need to carry out additional procedures, since the coloring composition will hide all the shortcomings.

Stretch ceiling

You can create a fashionable interior and at the same time spend less on materials and work by arranging a stretch ceiling under a tree. Such a solution is relevant for many styles, from Provence to Art Nouveau. It will successfully fit into any design project and will look great in wooden houses.

Thanks to modern technology, you can apply any pattern. The base for it can be glossy, satin or fabric. This is the easiest way to arrange wood on the ceiling. Many designers recommend duplicating the floor and moving the same pattern up. It looks very impressive.

A wooden ceiling is considered a classic; any room will benefit from this solution.

The advantage of this material is that for all its naturalness and originality, the tree looks noble.

Rack ceiling

Many people confuse two concepts: a ceiling made of wood and a slatted ceiling under a tree. The second option is just an imitation, it is obtained by applying a pattern on a different basis, resembling a cut of a bar or board.

The first consists of natural material and is more acceptable in an aesthetic sense. A person perceives a wooden drawing positively, knowing in advance about its authenticity.

But you do not need to immediately sweep aside the imitation option. After all, modern technologies make it possible to achieve such an effect that one glance will not be enough for realizing a fake. In doing so, you can save a significant amount of money.

Installing a slatted ceiling

To install such a ceiling, you need to prepare the necessary tools:

• perforator (designed for stone walls);
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw, hand saw or jigsaw;
• mounting level;
• and measurements.

The installation of the slats is not very different from the installation of other wooden surfaces.

The slats also need to be fastened to the bars with nails or screws. In damp rooms, the surface should be additionally waterproofed to prevent mold and high humidity inside the house.

A very important point in the choice of rails will be the percentage of their moisture. It should not exceed 12%. Otherwise, the slats may warp during operation.

So we found out what a wooden ceiling is. Then the choice is yours!