The lining is considered an ideal solution for decorating a steam room, because it is natural wood that creates the necessary atmosphere and keeps heat well. When planning clapboard cladding inside the bath with your own hands, you should take into account all the necessary nuances. Even minor deviations from the rules threaten that the coating will not perform its functions and will quickly become unusable.
Plating a bath with clapboard provides for the use of materials that can withstand certain conditions that are characteristic of a given room. These include:
- High temperature readings.
- Constant drops in humidity.
- Ingress of water and various substances.
Therefore, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of products. It is believed that the best option would be exactly the lining. This is due to the following factors:
- Reliability of fixation due to the large size of the grooving system.
- The presence of compensation slots located on the seamy side. They prevent cracking of the elements.
- Good quality of impregnation by means of protection, carried out directly in production.
Euro lining is the most reliable material for finishing a bath On a note! For work, material of the first or highest class (grade) is used. There are no damages and knots in it, which will fall out over time.
Selection of wood species
The bathhouse consists of several rooms that perform specific functions. It is advisable to provide for the presence of a certain type of wood for each room. It should be borne in mind that not every type can be used for this kind of finish.
Linden
Linden - a frequently used version of the lining for finishing the bath One of the most popular options. Linden is capable of creating a microclimate in a room that will be saturated with cleanliness and comfort. We must not forget about the excellent qualities of such material. The boards are durable, resistant to various influences, retain their color and structure for a long time.
Aspen
A feature of this type is that from time to time it only becomes stronger. It is easy to work with such a product. Even after a long time, when the wood darkens, it is enough to sand it to restore the rich color of the surface.
The above options can be used in all parts of the bath, but they are most often used in the steam room.
Aspen lining is most often used in a steam room Cedar
It can be used even in steam rooms, but this breed heats up much more than deciduous ones, therefore, at high temperatures, discomfort from contact may occur.
Cedar products tend to get very hot Pine and spruce
These types are used mainly for washing and dressing rooms. The fact is that these rocks strongly emit resin and quickly heat up. But it should be noted that this option is much cheaper than the previous ones and has a wide decorative range.
On a note! Conifers need additional processing - resin removal, otherwise there is a high probability that the surface of the walls and ceiling will be covered with numerous streaks.
Lining made of coniferous wood is most often used for finishing the dressing room and washing
Choosing a mounting method
Facing the bath with clapboard with your own hands begins with the choice of the layout of the elements. There are two main ways: horizontal and vertical. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Horizontal option
The horizontal version has the following advantages:
- It is assumed that the fastening will be carried out with a spike on top, which will reduce the likelihood of water ingress and stagnation.
- This method is also good in that the frame for it is performed vertically, which means that the air will circulate more evenly in the resulting space.
- It also cannot be ruled out that boards, even the highest quality ones, are subject to decay. This happens especially quickly at the very bottom. Horizontal fastening technology makes it possible to replace only the material that has actually been destroyed.
- With this installation option, the resulting drying out is less noticeable.
Horizontal version of fixing the lining in the bath We must not forget that oak wood is considered one of the highest quality, but its cost is very high.
Vertical option
The interior decoration of the bath with clapboard in a vertical way is done quite quickly and easily. This technology has its advantages:
- Any moisture will drain faster along the vertical elements.
- The groove-comb system is less prone to water stagnation and destruction.
- This scheme maintains the indoor temperature.
Internal finishing of the bath in a vertical way It is believed that this option is most suitable for dry steam baths.
Installation of lining
Clapboard cladding from the inside of a bath or sauna is carried out on the lathing. It is made exclusively of wooden beams, which are pretreated with various antiseptics and primed.
Important! You cannot use a metal profile for the frame, even galvanized options in the steam room will quickly become unusable.
Creation of the lathing
The technology is as follows:
- The timber is carefully prepared. For work, a non-planed version can be used, but it must be treated with impregnations.
- The fastening of the racks is carried out clearly perpendicular to the location of the lining. Naturally, if a combination of a vertical and horizontal scheme was conceived, then it is necessary to calculate in advance the correct location of the bar.
- The profile is attached to the wall with a dowel. It is taken into account that the size of the timber should be larger than the width of the insulation, if an option is used that fits into free space.
- The distance between the posts should be 50-60 cm. The correctness of the fastening is checked by level and plumb line.
- If irregularities are found, then board trimmings are additionally added. In the case of strong curvature, suspensions are used for the frame of the gypsum boards.
Installation of the batten in the bath under the lining On a note! You need to take care of good ventilation. It is arranged in two places. The first hole should be located under the ceiling, the second 30 cm from the floor.
Fastening lamellas
How to fix the lining in the bath? The most effective method is considered to be hidden fastening (nails and clamps). There are several explanations for this:
- If the fasteners are twisted through the front part, then there is a high probability of touching this place, which will lead to unpleasant sensations (minor burns).
- The metal is susceptible to oxidation, which means that stains may appear that spoil the entire decorative look.
- The visible fastening indicates that the master was in too much haste to finish the work, neglecting the appearance of the room.
Installation of lining by means of hidden fasteners The work takes place as follows:
Stage one - ceiling sheathing.
All activities start with a ceiling structure. The fact is that it is here that the necessary thermal gaps are left.
- Laying begins from the entrance to the room. A kleimer is used as a fastener. It securely fixes every element, which is not the case with nails.
- The slats are placed at a distance of fifty millimeters from the walls, which will compensate for possible deformations. It will also serve as a ventilation gap to allow air to circulate.
- The first fragment is put into place and fixed with hidden studs. Next, the clamps are installed.
- Products are grooved. Now only kleimers are applied.
- The last element is difficult to lay, so it is fixed on hidden studs.
Stage two - working with walls.
The technology is exactly the same as that used for the ceiling. But the following is taken into account:
- The presence of capillaries in the wood makes it possible for water to rise to a certain distance, and therefore it is advisable to leave a technical gap. To do this, 15-30 mm recede from the floor.
- The boards are adjacent to the ceiling, but for the walls, the lamellas cannot be connected through the groove until they stop. The fact is that the tree is in constant motion, so there must be space.
It should be borne in mind that violation of such simple rules leads to the appearance of swelling and deformation.
Clapboard wall cladding assumes compliance with simple rules The technology used allows the bath to be sheathed with clapboard in all rooms.
You should know! The lining must not be placed next to the firebox and chimney. However, the area around the heater can be sheathed with hardwood lamellas.
Stage three - additional processing.
After the installation is completed, additional processing of the lining is carried out. This is necessary in order to protect the tree from destruction. The work is carried out with various impregnations on a natural basis. Waxing works best when the surface is thoroughly waxed. The number of layers depends on the type of room. For a steam room, one is enough, and for a washing room - at least two.
To protect the lining from destruction, additional processing is carried out It is important to purchase high-quality impregnations that have the necessary certificates.
Everyone wants to know how to properly sheathe the premises of the bath and save a little. There are several options for this:
- Choose a different wood for each room. For example, the places in the steam room, where it is supposed to lie or sit, are revetted with deciduous trees, the rest with cedar. The dressing room and the washing room are ennobled exclusively with coniferous options.
- You can also downgrade the grade (class) of the lining. If the rest of the premises need high-quality material, then the dressing room looks great with a surface on which there are traces of knots and different colors.
- It is better to carry out all the work yourself. This will allow not only to significantly save money, but also to be sure that all activities are carried out with exceptional quality.
The quality of the steam and the microclimate in this room directly depends on the finish of the bath inside. Of all the materials offered by manufacturers, you can choose the best, which will not only provide a high degree of aesthetics of walls and ceilings, but also enhance the healing effect of bath procedures.
How and what is the best way to decorate the bath inside
Setting up a bath is not an easy task. There are always several rooms in this building, each of which performs its own function. Those materials that are optimal for a dressing room and a rest room are not always suitable for finishing a steam room or a washing room. Therefore, the owner of the bath needs to know what are the criteria for choosing the design and facing of each room.
The interior decoration of the bath can be made of the following materials:
- lining;
- planed boards;
- salt panels;
- brick;
- porcelain stoneware;
- natural and artificial stone;
- plastic panels;
- moisture resistant gypsum board and gypsum plasterboard;
- ceramic tile.
Listed are materials that can be safely used for cladding walls and ceilings in any room. The environmental friendliness and durability of these products have been tested by many years of practice. With the right choice of materials, finishing the bath can be complicated by only one thing: ignorance of how to properly lay them, stick them or mount them.
Which lining to choose for the bath
There are 4 types of lining, differing in the profile of the boards:
- Euro lining.
- Standard (otherwise called "peasant").
- Block house (imitation of logs).
- American (imitation of a bar).
- "Calm";
- Soft Line;
- "Classic".
Decorating a bath with clapboard is a traditional, often used solution. It has gained such high popularity for many reasons. The lining is a natural, and therefore environmentally friendly, material favorable for human and animal health. When choosing, it is extremely important to consider several points:
- wood species;
- grade of material;
- resistance to moisture;
- coefficient of thermal conductivity.
Rules for choosing the grade of lining
Manufacturers offer several options for the grade of boards:
- "A" is the first;
- "B" - the second;
- "C" - third;
- "Extra" is the highest.
What is "highest" is not specified in the state standards. This indicator is not used anywhere in the world except Russia. Domestic producers often give out grade "A" wood as "Extra", and boards of grade "B" - for "A". This is the reason for the appearance on the market of top-grade lining. Recommendations for choosing a grade are as follows:
- the interior decoration of the bath can be made of second grade boards;
- for rooms with high humidity, the presence of rot and wane in the wood is unacceptable.
Rules for conducting a visual inspection of boards and assessing their condition
Consider the following:
- Pay attention to the quality of the chips. The boards should have a flat and smooth surface. This directly affects the economic benefits of finishing work. If the front side of the lining is rough, the finish will be complicated by the increased consumption of antiseptic and paint and varnish materials.
- The moisture content of the boards should not exceed 12-16% (GOST requirement). It is visually impossible to determine whether the material offered by the manufacturer meets this criterion. Therefore, it is necessary to request documents confirming compliance with GOST. If the wood is not dry enough, there is a high risk that it will lead it in the first years of operation of the finished premises.
- Pay attention to the depth and evenness of the groove. These indicators determine the quality of the installation. And it doesn't matter in what way it will be done: with the help of clamps, nails or staples. If the groove is shallow, the fasteners will have nothing to catch on.
An important characteristic of the boards is width. Often on sale there are slats wider than standard (more than 88 mm) and managers assure that it is more profitable to buy such a lining. This is not true, since such a finish will be less durable and there is a high risk of curvature of wide boards under the influence of moisture.
Criteria for choosing a wood species
The walls and ceilings of the bathhouse can be decorated with the finest wood species.
| Material | Dignity | disadvantages |
|---|---|---|
| Spruce | Low price, wood does not darken over time, a small number of knots, a low degree of resinousness, dries quickly. Finishing with boards of the second grade is acceptable | Often leads |
| Pine | It is a source of phytoncides that revitalize the body, resistant to moisture, low thermal conductivity. We recommend finishing with boards of the first grade | Knotty, resinous |
| Aspen | An excellent antiseptic, highly resistant to moisture, has a pleasant color shade, not tarry. Decorating paired with aspen is a recognized option for arranging these premises | Possible latent rot |
| Linden | Low cost, structural integrity, few knots | The softness of wood, which complicates the process of installation and operation |
| Alder | Beautiful texture and color, high moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, strength. Alder finish is suitable for resting places | High price |
| Larch | The best indicators of moisture resistance among other types of wood, low thermal conductivity, spectacular texture, a small number of knots. Larch trim is suitable for any room in the bath | High price |
| Cedar | The best indicators of medical and health-improving characteristics, high strength, hardness, high-quality noise absorption, not susceptibility to rot and insects. Cedar trim is the best solution for steam rooms and lounges | High price |
Stages of clapboard bathing
Plating a bath with clapboard is no different from a similar process for finishing facades and premises for any other purpose. All you need to do is follow our installation instructions for a trouble-free execution of the task.
How to fix the lining in the bath
The installation of the lining in the bath begins with the choice of the method of fastening the boards and the preparation of the tools necessary for this work.
The following options are used:
- Finishing by the method of hidden fixing of the lining. Use kleimers. These are metal products that are inserted into the groove of the board with one side, and the second part protruding from the groove is attached to the racks of the lathing. For this purpose, use: - nails (included in the package of clamps) and a hammer or nail gun; - self-tapping screws with a flat head and a screwdriver; - galvanized metal staples and electric construction stapler.
- Finishing by the open method of fastening the lining. With this method of installation, galvanized finishing nails are used, which are hammered directly into the lining boards from its front side. Fasteners are invisible against a background of wood grain and knots. After completing the paintwork, they are barely distinguishable.
- Stages of fixing the lining to the clamps. Using a tape measure, a pencil and a building level, mark the location of the first lamella on the racks of the crate. Turn the board with the groove down and apply it to the crate, focusing on the marks made earlier. A kleimer is inserted into the groove of the lining and fastened to the rack of the lathing in the chosen way: on a bracket, screws or nails. The process is repeated at all points of intersection of the board with the crate.
Lathing for lining in the bath
Fastening the lining is possible both directly on the wall and on the lathing. In the first case, an impeccable flatness of the base surface is required, which is a rarity. Therefore, clapboard finishing is traditionally performed on the lathing.
For its installation, well-dried wooden blocks with a section of 30x40 mm, 40x40 mm, 40x50 mm, 50x50 mm are used. The parameters of the racks are chosen depending on the area of the wall. If it is small, then smaller bars will do. Trimming large areas requires thick, sturdy lumber.
If necessary, insulating materials can be laid between the racks of the lathing: mineral wool slabs, penofol, expanded polystyrene sheets. Most often, the first option is chosen, since the foam, under the influence of high temperatures, begins to emit styrene, which is harmful to health.
In the bath, high-quality interior decoration is important. It is unacceptable to use materials that can reduce the usefulness of hygiene procedures.
The stages of the lathing device for the lining are as follows:
- Calculation of the amount of lumber. In order to correctly make the crate, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of it. It is important to maintain the recommended spacing between the posts: 45-60 cm. The thinner the selected timber, the smaller the distance between the bars should be. The lathing consists of horizontally laid upper and lower guides and vertical struts located between them. A drawing is made for each wall, the dimensions of the room are indicated on it and the required amount of lumber is calculated.
- Wood preparation. The purchased lumber is brought into the room and left in it for 1-2 days. During this time, the wood will have time to "acclimatize", will acquire the required temperature and humidity. After that, each bar from all sides and ends is covered with a layer of antiseptic. This task can be accomplished in two ways: - cover all surfaces with a paint brush; - prepare a container of such length that you can pour an antiseptic into it and immerse a bar in it.
- Leave the lumber to dry for the period recommended by the manufacturer of the antiseptic solution.
- Wall markings. To perform the marking work, you will need: - a plumb line; - construction bubble or hydro level; - roulette; - pencil; - construction square.
- Using the listed tools, marks are made on the walls in accordance with the drawing drawn up earlier. Thus, the location of all the lathing bars is found.
- Installation of the lathing. Wooden bars are attached to the walls in any convenient way: using nails or self-tapping screws. The distance between the fixation points should not exceed 40 cm.
Fastening lamellas
You can decorate the bath with clapboard in several ways. The lamellas can only be laid horizontally or diagonally. It is also possible to combine these techniques. Thus, the design of the room is created, which is the most pleasant and beneficial for the owner.
It should be noted that when installing the boards diagonally, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the lathing posts. This method of fastening the lamellas entails a higher consumption of materials than with the traditional horizontal laying of the lining. Wall decoration with the diagonal direction of the boards is complicated by the greater laboriousness of the work.
How to sheathe the walls in the bath
The interior decoration of the bath can be done not only with clapboard. The list of materials suitable for this purpose is wide. A spectacular reception - finishing with salt panels and blocks. This is an expensive material, so it can be used for the installation of partitions or panels.
Salt slabs are highly heat-resistant, but are not recommended for installation in rooms with high levels of air humidity. As a result, this finish is suitable for relaxation rooms and Finnish dry air saunas. Cozy and comfortable atmosphere will be created by facing with salt slabs in combination with their illumination, internal or external.
The panels are fixed to the walls with a two-component caustic magnesite adhesive. If small blocks are purchased, they can be glued at an inexpensive one. Such a finish will be more economical, but no less durable and aesthetic. The salt panels can be attached to any surface. These facing blocks are used if the bath is built of brick, wood, concrete, plastered, sheathed with gypsum fiber board or gypsum board.
It is impossible not to pay attention to the ceiling. It is sheathed with materials that blend harmoniously with the walls. The bathhouse cannot boast of high ceilings, since they are not needed in it. For this building, rapid heating of the premises is important, which is possible with low walls.
If the bathhouse is built of timber or logs, the ceilings in the premises may not be revetted, but covered with varnish or tinting compound. In this case, it is necessary to perform high-quality insulation from the attic side.
If the bath is built of brick, foam or aerated concrete, the ceiling can be finished with the same facing materials as the walls. The cladding methods for horizontal and vertical surfaces are the same. But, before attaching wooden lamellas or other material to the ceiling, you need to make sure that the bearing surface is strong.
Ceiling sheathing
The decoration in the bath will be disharmonious if the walls and ceiling are sheathed with materials of the same type, but different in quality. This method is used only for the sake of economy. A high ceiling can hide differences in color or other surface characteristics. But the bath is traditionally built with a height of no more than 280 cm.
In order for the design of the room to match the mood that hygienic and relaxation procedures evoke, environmentally friendly and aesthetically pleasing materials are used in the cladding. If the walls are sheathed with wooden slats, most often the ceiling is made the same. The installation rules are the same. A crate is also erected on the ceiling, having previously drawn up its drawing. Lamellas are attached to the bars in the same way as for wall cladding.
Restroom decoration
The bathhouse is always perceived as a place of relaxation from everyday worries. Each room in it is designed for its own purposes. The name of the rest room speaks for itself: here you can relax after water procedures. Therefore, it is important to create coziness and relaxation in it.
Car wash finishing
Steam room decoration
Effective and advantageous in terms of heat capacity is the finishing of steam rooms with natural stone. This material can be combined with others. So, one wall is allowed to be revetted with stone, and all the others - with wood. No artificial materials are used in the steam room. Natural stone heats up quickly, holds for a long time and gradually gives off heat, which contributes to the creation of an optimal microclimate for water procedures.
With the right choice and installation of materials, the decoration of the bath will fully correspond to the purpose of each of its premises.
It should be borne in mind that the decoration of the steam room in the bath is not only in the design of the aesthetic appearance of the room, but also in the provision of practical qualities. The pleasant smell of wood and the high air temperature contribute to the creation of a comfortable atmosphere in a steam room or steam bath. What should be the finishing of the steam room in the bath, how to do it yourself and how to handle the steam room after the procedures - all this is in our article.
Competent interior decoration
Decorating a steam room in a bath with your own hands carries several important missions, which are as follows:
- waterproofing and thermal insulation of the room is carried out;
- the service life of the room is significantly extended;
- a healing effect is provided that promotes the release of aromatic compounds during exposure to high temperatures on wood;
- visitors are protected from burns when they come into contact with walls;
- the decorative and aesthetic function is carried out.
Selection of material
Before insulating a steam room in a bath, it is necessary to choose the right material. It is customary to use natural wood for decoration. Due to its structure, it provides good microcirculation of humid air.
The steam room in the bath is finished with wood due to its positive characteristics:
- hygiene of the material;
- in natural wood there are no toxins that can penetrate into the air during an increase in temperature, in contrast to artificial materials;
- hypoallergenicity contributes to easy interaction with the skin;
- Russian steam bath, sheathed with high-quality varieties of wood, has a long service life;
- a wide range of colors allows you to choose the most favorable shade for the owner without the use of additional dyes;
- the structure of the fibers makes it easy to absorb and release moisture.
Pine is not one of the most popular materials for a steam bath, since it has a large amount of natural resins in its structure, and when the temperature rises, the lining begins to release this aromatic sticky substance onto the surface.
It is worth considering the amount of moisture in the workpieces. It is necessary to select high-quality dried wood, because if it is underdried, then later you can get large cracks on the walls. And if the decorative finish is overdried, then during operation it will absorb excessive moisture and swell. This will lead to external deformation of the coating, small waves are formed.
The surface of the wood must not be treated with stains or varnish. It is also forbidden to use painted surfaces, as these substances will evaporate during heating. Only the use of special impregnations is allowed.
Features of tree species
In addition to the fact that the material must be well dried, there should be no knots or chipping on its surface. The board is pre-cut so that there is no discomfort when it comes into contact with the body.
Deciduous tree species are in demand. In this case, the device of a steam room in a bath receives a finish with a low degree of thermal conductivity. This allows the air in the room to warm up quickly, but the walls do not overheat, which provides greater comfort.
Each tree species used in steam bath projects has individual characteristics. For example, it is generally accepted that the birch finish in the steam room of a Russian bath endows a person with positive energy. Aspen, reserved in the steam bath project, takes away negative energy, and with it diseases.
- The practical use of birch is rarely in demand. This is due to the fact that such a breed undergoes significant drying out, but at the same time this property helps to impregnate the material well with protective special equipment.
- Larch is one of the most durable wood species in use. She easily refers to the significant temperature differences that are characteristic of a steam bath, as in the video. Also, it is not afraid of high humidity for its porous structure.
The natural shine and a large number of shades of larch make it one of the main favorites when insulating a steam room in a bath or decorative finishing.
- Linden attracts those who love light colors in the interior. It is also moisture resistant and can withstand various deformations. In addition, it heats up the longest of all rocks. Due to this quality, it is customary to sheathe the ceiling, floor and walls closer to the stove with it. When heated, it emits a pleasant, light aroma. It is advisable to treat linden with a special solution to prevent darkening of the surface. Due to its structure, it is in demand in rooms that need sound insulation.
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- For its strength, some builders attribute aspen to almost ideal finishing materials for a steam room in a bath. This quality allows it to be used even during the construction of baths, cellars, wells. With proper drying, even nails are hard to enter into such material. Exposure to moisture prevents cracking. Often, floors are made of aspen in a bathhouse, in a steam room and in a sink. The material is a natural antiseptic that fights fungi, mold and various bacteria. As a remedy, it is used during joint diseases, headaches.
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Floor arrangement
The floor in a steam bath rarely warms up above 30 ° C, since its significant overheating can lead to thermal shock. This surface is covered with a clay layer or concrete screed. A fiber mat is placed on top of these materials. The main quality of the floor is a fast and efficient drainage of water.
This horizontal surface is decorated, as a rule, in two ways:
- ceramic tiles;
- processed board.
A considerable number of bathhouse owners prefer to use tiles due to their high practicality. However, traditionally, the floors in the bathhouse in the steam room are laid with their own hands in the form of wooden flooring. A simple scheme is used, in which on a prepared base of beams, planed boards are fastened with self-tapping screws close to or with a small gap.
A horizontal surface is formed under the tile in the form of a leveled screed. The size of the steam room in the bath is pre-measured, and according to the footage, the required number of tiles is prepared. It is put on an adhesive base, and the seams are compulsorily putty with moisture-resistant material. This procedure will eliminate the formation of mold under the cladding.
The steam room in the bathhouse is upholstered with wood with its own hands. It is not allowed to use materials such as linoleum or fiberboard inside the bath. As well as chipboard, they emit toxic substances and are more fire hazardous elements.
You cannot use plastic in any quality - decoration, decoration, stand, shades, etc. Even the lamps for the steam room in the bath are matched with wooden shades. Such decisions will make a truly real health zone.
How to treat a steam room in a bath
Both lovers of bath procedures and experts agree that in the steam room the lining or wooden slabs do not need to be processed with anything. If the wood is chosen correctly and heating and cooling alternate, nothing will happen to the finish. As a last resort, you can use special formulations based on beeswax and natural oils.
Sometimes, after bathing procedures, it is advisable to wipe the benches and walls with linseed, hemp or refined vegetable oil. You can even add aromatic oils with your favorite scent to both polish the boards to a shine and create some comfort. This is an optional procedure. But it is recommended to carry it out at least 2 times a year with regular use of the bath.
Be sure to ventilate and dry the steam room at the end of the procedure. Don't close the door to the steam room. Keep it wide open until the shelves, floorboards and walls are dry.
If you dry the room in a timely manner, heat the steam room to at least 70 degrees and cool it down to negative temperatures in winter, there will never be any fungi, no mold, or even extraneous unpleasant odors in such a bath.
VIDEO: Interior decoration of the bath
This is a creative and interesting business. The interior arrangement of premises, as a rule, can take up to half of the construction budget, which is not surprising. A wonderful recreation area should be comfortable, cozy, functional and beautiful. But here you can save money by doing all the work with your own hands and choosing budget finishes.
Work order
Baths are being built different, in one or two floors, with billiard rooms and upper rest rooms; as additional equipment, a solarium, a swimming pool, an infrared sauna and many other amazing gifts of civilization are installed. Such advanced objects are finished by designers, specialists in style and technology, but we should consider a typical version of a bathhouse with three functional rooms: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room or a relaxation room.
It is clear that all three rooms are finished in different ways. For example, pine cannot be used in the steam room, but in the dressing room you can, this will save money and fill the room with delicious coniferous aromas.
Important! The order of finishing activities in a wooden or other bath is the same. All work is carried out from the bottom up.
Algorithm for finishing work in the bath:
- arrangement of the floor;
- wall sheathing;
- installation of the canvas;
- installation of equipment, furniture.
The correct finishing, which includes the installation of insulation, vapor barrier and room decoration, will create a paradise for the rest of the soul and body.
Floor arrangement
The process is essentially straightforward. In a wooden bath, logs from a bar of 200x200 mm or 250x250 mm are mounted, boards, edged or grooved, are laid on them. Of the materials, hardwood is preferred, but oak is not recommended. Pine releases resinous substances when heated. The best option is larch floors.
The joints between the boards are made with a minimum gap for natural ventilation. This is especially true of the washing department, where there is excess water. In the steam room, the floor is raised from the general level by 150-200 mm to keep warm.
Boards must be treated with an antiseptic, a primer to prevent their swelling, the formation of fungal colonies.
Many people cover the floor with ceramic tiles in the steam room and sink, which is smart for a brick bath. In a wooden building, the best floor is a polished, carefully processed board. Processing with soil from Tikkuril, Snow and other firms will protect against deformation.
As for the floors in the recreation room, it all depends on imagination and financial capabilities. You can use tiles of a wide variety of types. Laminate with the Aqua Stop system, a special impregnation that creates a reliable protection against moisture, does not allow the inner part of the panel - the HDF board - to swell, does not deform, lasts from 20 years. You can use modern, recently appeared on the market of finishing materials, liquid linoleum and much more.
The floor in rooms where water can enter is made with a low slope and drain.
Bath wall decoration
The choice of materials for decorating the walls of the steam room is not great; it is unacceptable to use wood-shaving materials, linoleums and other chemical products.
The walls of the steam room are sheathed with natural wood, clapboard, tongue-and-groove boards made of tree species:
- Cedar. Moisture resistant, capable of withstanding high temperatures and their drops, cedar is most preferable for the walls of the steam room, when heated, its wood gives off substances that are healing for the human body, pleasant aromas of the taiga. The boards are gentle to the touch, it is nice to lean your back against the cedar wall. The steam room, trimmed with cedar, should be heated strongly for the first time and hold the heat for 40–45 minutes, so that the cedar cries out the resin.
- Abashi is a foreigner in our market, but is popular, despite the high cost. The advantage of abasha is its ultra-low thermal conductivity, the wood practically does not heat up, plus a pleasant appearance, tactility, interesting texture and color.
- Linden. Healing tree, wood is resistant to high temperatures, does not lose its original color and appearance for 20-25 years, for a steam room a real find, essential linden oils heal bronchi, treat colds. Linden has a beautiful pastel shade that decorates and a little romanticizes the space of the steam room;
- Larch is the most frequent visitor to steam rooms, washing rooms and rest rooms. The walls, finished with larch, are not afraid of moisture, the ephedra is well protected from swelling by resinous sacs and the structure of the arrangement of fibers. The wood has a varied color palette, natural shine and beauty of the pattern. Larch-clad walls also require an initial heating to maximum temperatures of 40–45 minutes for the resin to release. The material is inexpensive, it is considered folk.
- Aspen. It is difficult, alas, to find it on the construction market, it is not cheap, but the high cost is justified. Wood does not rot, protects log walls, repels insects and has a healing effect on the human body. She literally cures migraines and joint diseases.
The walls of the washing room can be faced with tiles, sheathed with clapboard of their coniferous species. For wall cladding with tiles, you can use moisture-resistant drywall, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.
The tile for the washing room is especially relevant in a brick building, it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, it is easy to maintain, it is used for a long time.
Important! It is better to use glazed tiles, which are more resistant. A matte rough surface is preferable so as not to slip, and the back side, smooth without porosity, will prevent the occurrence of fungus.
Whichever type of finish is used in the washroom, rubber rugs or wooden grates should be placed on the floor.
The walls in the break room should be trimmed depending on how well it is protected from steam and moisture penetration. But for a log bath, you can't think of anything better than polished logs, however, it's a matter of taste. Even decorative plaster of any kind, including Venetian, is suitable for brick walls. And yet, the stylistic features of the room play an important role in the decoration of the space, where you can relax after a pleasant procedure, sit at the samovar with friends, chatting sincerely.
Decorative wall decoration is carried out after the installation of a layer of insulation and foil material. Tefopol, for example, perfectly seals a room, its use is permissible in a washing room and a rest room, foil-clad penofol serves simultaneously as a vapor barrier, a heat reflector, and a heater.
The need for a vapor barrier layer for a brick bath is obvious, especially if forced ventilation is not provided in the premises. The walls must breathe. It is better to use membrane films and not save money by purchasing simple polyethylene.
Ceiling decoration
Ceiling decoration is similar to wall decoration. The same materials and technologies are used for the steam room. In the washing room, you can sew up the ceiling with linden, cedar, aspen clapboard. The best insulation for the ceiling of the steam room is ecowool. The material is not cheap, but justifies the investment. In addition, the ceiling area of the steam room is small.
A layer of foil-clad material is definitely needed, but its choice is fraught with some nuances. Do not use materials on expanded polypropylene foam, polyurethane foam. The best option for insulation is ecowool plus foil on paper, that is, kraft foil.
Important! The use of high-quality finishing materials is a guarantee of safety and health. Saving on these points is harmful and dangerous!
Room decoration
The aesthetics and comfort of the bath room space is formed not only by finishing materials. Good furniture is required:
- steam room shelves;
- font in the washing room;
- sofa, table for the rest room.
You also need beautiful doors, glass or solid, and many other pleasant things.
A special factor of comfort, ensuring the functionality of the space, is the right lighting. Installation of electrical wiring and equipment, permissible voltage, use of lamps is a topic for another conversation. Here you just need to note the importance of competent lighting in all rooms of the bath, creating a mood, conducive to relaxation and pleasant pastime.
The bathhouse is an amazing place for rest and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive look both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention some tips on how to set up, the interior decoration of which is no less important stage than the construction itself.
So, if you plan to independently deal with the interior decoration of the bath, then this article will come in handy. Here you will find professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step-by-step photos of important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve the tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you stick to the principles of building technology when performing cladding, cladding, etc.
Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.
A modern Russian bath assumes the presence of several rooms:
- vestibule;
- steam room;
- washing.
If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip an additional recreation room, billiard room, kitchen area, playground, pool and much more in it. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not in any way affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:
- all premises should be attractive and practical;
- there should be hot and pleasant steam in the steam room;
- it should be convenient and safe in the washroom.
Finishing has a big impact on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality building material that does not need mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Competently selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for a comfortable stay, as well as significantly extend the life of the walls, floor and ceiling. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing room, vestibule, read below.
When planning the decoration of the steam room, take into account the following features of this room:
- Constant presence of heated steam, supplied in a concentrated and dense stream;
- Temperature drops, heating to high temperatures;
- High humidity level.
The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed to be used in this setting. However, the widest range of modern finishing materials allows you to choose the option that will best suit even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the cladding board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:
- Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
- Moisture resistance;
- High aesthetic characteristics;
- Nice smell, no tar when heated;
- Resistant to mold and mildew;
- Air purification.
Today, there are several classes of lining:
- C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing a bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
- B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
- A-class. Shallow cracks are possible. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
- Premium class. Highest quality and value for money. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.
The most common profiles are euro lining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.
Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior decoration for a bath. Its density is quite low, so it doesn't get very hot in a steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.
And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.
When choosing one or another material for cladding, carefully examine the panels. The wood must be dry, well-processed, free of chipping, knots and other obvious defects. High quality material must meet these requirements, and only he will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.
The material for covering the steam room does not require additional processing with special means. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.
Before proceeding with clapboard sheathing, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is rock wool. She is the most demanded in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It copes more successfully with exposure to high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal heater for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.
The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold or too hot.
The washroom isn't just for showering and washing yourself at a comfortable temperature. There should be a place to relax in the washroom, so that you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.
In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for the steam room you can choose among hardwoods, then only conifers are suitable for the washing room - pine, spruce, larch. This choice is very easy to explain. Coniferous wood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, in a washing room, it will show itself better than hardwoods, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.
It is especially worth considering the selection of material for finishing the floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are a comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is prepared from concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid on top of it. In order to prevent heavy slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the sink can be completely wooden, but ceramic tiles as the main finish are a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.
A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This is the most important aspect that must be taken into account when choosing finishing materials. Any type of wood can be used for the vestibule and other rooms. But don't limit yourself to using wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish decoration of the vestibule, recreation room and other bath rooms:
- Porcelain stoneware;
- Plaster;
- Natural stone;
- Fiberglass wallpaper;
- Majolica.
Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the sauna premises. For example, the combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. Do-it-yourself sauna will allow you to make non-standard creative ideas come true. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose the best materials and their combinations.
The ceiling of the bath must be able to withstand high temperature loads, as well as to cope well with streams of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam using heat and vapor barrier materials. Construction membranes or aluminum foil can be purchased for this purpose. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to carry out vapor barrier with a foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material is thinner, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the cladding process. The same applies to foil with a polypropylene foam layer. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, emits substances that are toxic to humans, therefore, it is not suitable for use in bath rooms.
Each joint of vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is punctured, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.
The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.
The cutting of the ceiling for the chimney hole should be carried out taking into account the maintenance of a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.
To make a pipe hole you will need:
- 2mm stainless steel sheet;
- Galvanized box;
- Clamping clamp.
The partitioning of the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. The groove allows you to shape the outlet of the pipe.
A 400x400 mm box is installed from the attic side. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. The pipe is wrapped around the steel plate with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.
After the box and steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct circuit.
Steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.
We bring to your attention the instructions that will help you to perform the clapboarding in the bathhouse quickly, economically and efficiently:
- The ceiling is lathing with 2x4 cm slats. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps of 10 mm.
- Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
- Fastening of panels starts from one of the walls. The first plank is positioned with the groove outward. A thorn of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connecting the tenon and the groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.
When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.
- Fix the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the work time is significantly reduced.
- Gaps of up to 2.5 cm should remain between the cladding and the wall. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps, it is enough to nail in the ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last one are attached with nails with an inconspicuous head. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the cap tightly into the wood.
Do not forget that the cladding should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each installed panel. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.
If the values obtained as a result of measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the cladding will turn out to be uneven and sloppy. Tamping is carried out with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove using a mallet or hammer to adjust the size.
Another method can be used to achieve perfect evenness. The wooden plate is fixed and sharp chips are hammered under it.
The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tiles, etc. In the vestibule and the rest room, original ensembles can be created by combining various materials.
Wall cladding
According to the main parameters, clapboard wall cladding is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.
- The first step is to fill a thick bar along the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
- Insulation must be placed in the grooves between the bars. For example, mineral wool. It is cut into appropriate pieces with a sharp knife. It is not necessary to tamp the insulation.
Note! All work with mineral wool should be carried out with gloves, a respirator and goggles.
- Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued together with aluminum tape.
Pay particular attention to the insulation of the corner joints.
- Remember to leave ventilation clearances. To do this, you can fill in the distance rail. The lathing is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the lathing must be nailed horizontally.
First of all, slats for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. To make it easier to align the horizontal battens, a string can be pulled between the vertical battens at the ceiling and floor.
- Separate bars should be used to separate the area of the door and the window;
- Now you can go directly to the paneling.
It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upward so that moisture does not collect and linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The lathing in this situation is carried out in the vertical direction.
Directly fastening the lining is carried out with clamps, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. There should be approximately 2 cm ventilation gaps between the ceiling and the cladding, the floor and the cladding.
A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of bath walls with clapboard is the need to cut the material. This is not difficult to do. You can saw the lining with a fine-toothed saw or jigsaw.
The last panel on the wall is trimmed to the desired size and fixed to the lathing. The next wall starts with a panel that is trimmed with a ridge. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be fitted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values before cutting the strip or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no joints in the corners of the panels.
The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the stove. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:
- Correspondingly dimensioned stainless steel sheets;
- Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, fiber reinforcement and mineral fillers. When the stove is located close to the wall, the minerite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
- Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
- Solid red brick. They need to line the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
- Profile iron is the cheapest option.
Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all rooms of the bath, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or a washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.
Tile laying is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.
Preparatory stage
The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists of removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. Preparation of wooden walls consists in performing waterproofing. Roofing material is nailed onto wooden panels with a construction stapler. A mesh-netting is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which concrete mortar is densely placed.
Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis for the final finish. Instead of a bar, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal, use a building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.
Instructions for laying tiles in a bath
You can prepare the mortar for fixing tiles yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a 1: 5 ratio. But you can also purchase a ready-made mixture. It is recommended to give preference to a special glue developed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature extremes. Before installation, the tiles must be placed in water to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the solution.
Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire cladding.
The glue is placed on the back of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. The adhesive can also be applied to the wall. Then the tiles are carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. The position of the tiles can be corrected with a rubber mallet.
It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you put adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will maintain the same clearance in both length and height.
It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.
The finishing step is to remove grout residues, clean the tiles and give them their final aesthetic appearance.
With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. It can be laid evenly, diagonally, with an offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.
If you decide to tile a complex pattern or design, then it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tiles should be located. This will allow you to accurately decorate and give your bath a truly original and unique look.
An unusual and very stylish solution for a bath is finishing with terracotta tiles. They are ideal for this type of room as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, due, first of all, to its significant weight. This tile needs a special adhesive. Mastic will do as well.
The laying process consists of the following steps:
- The mastic is thickly spread on the stove. This material will require much more glue than conventional ceramic tiles;
- We apply the slab to the wall, press down and align;
- We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
- To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the joints;
- Do not forget to regularly control the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
- After 10 hours after finishing the installation, you can start processing the seams. It is carried out with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water until sour cream is thick.
- Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
- The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout should be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
- Seams are neatly filled with grout. It must not come into contact with the boards themselves or other surfaces.
Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If grout does get on the tiles, do not try to remove it right away. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. Better to wait a little while the grout dries. This way, you can gently scrape it off.
- The direction of grouting can be any;
- Two hours later, you can move on to the jointing, which will give the finished look to this finish.
- Joining is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
- After that, you need to walk along the seams with your finger in a clean glove.
The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. Concrete flooring involves the installation of non-slip ceramic tiles.
Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate arrangement of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.
The work is carried out in the following order:
- The mortar is spread on the floor with a trowel according to the size of the tiles;
- A pattern is imprinted on the mortar with the teeth of a spatula, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
- Tiles are laid out. During operation, its position is corrected with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! The tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is advisable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
- Corner pieces are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;