How to build from round wood. A house made of a round solid log - the advantages of a log house

The owner of the house bears the name Bulat, which is rare for our region. Nothing surprising, given that he comes from Kazakhstan, where he has a successful business. Another thing is surprising: for Bulat, this house became the fourteenth, which he built in his life. Of course, not everyone had a chance to live - some of the houses were built for children and relatives, but the fact remains: by the time the house was ordered from round timber, Bulat had tremendous experience in house building. For the company to which he turned, this became a kind of challenge: it was necessary to please the customer in all the little things. And that's what happened in the end … Word to the owner.

Born in USSR

Now I have several houses: one is in Kazakhstan, one is with my mother-in-law in Ukraine, and now I have one in Belarus. It is unusual for me to hear words about independent states; I am, so to speak, "born in the USSR." And I sincerely love the post-Soviet countries, I had the opportunity to travel and live in most of the republics. Each of them has something unique, good, memorable. Belarus is a great place to live: nature, forests, air, helpful and kind people. And although I built 14 houses in my life, it was here that I decided to get a house made of round timber.

Living in a wooden house is an old dream. She appeared after four years spent in Siberia, in Tomsk. I lived there in the apartment of a leather master, in a real Siberian log house made of cedar. At that time, this house was 100 years old, it was already considered a monument of wooden architecture. And not so long ago I returned to Tomsk, to the same street where I lived - this house is standing, at least for him. It has been standing for 130 years. It impressed me so much that I firmly decided to build my house from round timber.

There were fears, of course. For me, this is the first experience of wooden construction, the previous houses were made of more standard materials: bricks and gas silicate blocks. In Kazakhstan, where I come from, there is not very much wood, the climate is different, so almost no wooden houses are built. And in Belarus - God himself ordered. It remains only to find a company with experience in the construction of log cabins and agree on the details. After searching, the choice fell on the Ecohome company.

Design and construction

It was decided to build a one-story house. Most of the time my wife and I live here together, why do we need a second floor? And in general, I think in most cases this is an excess, money thrown away: my mother has a two-story house, so she has not entered the second floor for a year and a half. For the elderly - it's 100% unnecessary spending, no one uses the second floor. The architect of the Ecohome company was in solidarity with us, and after numerous meetings and negotiations, the project of the house was agreed upon.

The foundation is pile-grillage, with a monolithic slab on top. They did this because of the height difference in the area - more than one and a half meters. The basement was not expected, so they chose this type of foundation so as not to spend too much. In addition, the basement is always damp and heat leakage. For hot countries, it is even reasonable to go deep into the ground, with the Belarusian climate this is superfluous.

Regarding the forest, I completely trusted Dmitry (director of the Ecohome company - ed. note). Forest, of course, winter, logs with a diameter of 240 mm. I am satisfied with the quality of the wood: the wooden house has been standing for four years, during this time only two cracks appeared: one on the outside, one on the inside. Seal them up and no problem.

It took a year to shrink the log house. After that, windows were installed, and interior and exterior decoration began. I personally tracked the last stages of work, I arrived with my wife Lyudmila, began to live in an old house, equipping it for temporary residence. I managed the finishing work myself, my wife was responsible for interior design, selection of materials, etc. This is an important point: if you properly organize the finishing work, you can move into the house very quickly. We moved in 7-8 months after the construction of the box. In the same six months, they poured foundations for a bathhouse and a summer kitchen / garage, put up a fence, laid all communications for utility buildings and street networks.

The house has a “second light”, the roof is hemmed under the ridge, and at the ends there are two attic rooms. Our insulation system is non-standard: the entire attic was filled with liquid polyurethane foam with a layer of 120 mm, the density was chosen high so that you could walk on the frozen foam. In the attic we have something like a technical floor, where the electrical wiring is laid out. The main advantage of polyurethane foam (in addition to thermal conductivity) is seamlessness, insulation is obtained without a single gap, heat does not go outside. On the slopes (where there is a "second light") - the insulation is also made with polyurethane foam.

Heating, by the way, in the house is combined: underfloor heating and radiators. Heat in the house is preserved due to the good thermal conductivity of wood: to maintain the temperature, you need to heat the boiler less, we spend pennies on gas in winter.

The hardest part of the process was sanding the walls. They are polished in two stages: in roughing, and finishing, for painting. After painting - the walls are ready. Compared to plasterboard sheathing, the savings in time (and money!) are enormous. Judge for yourself, in the case of a stone house, you need to: mount the profiles, make a vapor barrier under them, glue all the seams after installing drywall, putty, sand, prime, and only then paint. Here - much easier and faster.

Of course, before that, you still need to caulk all the logs, seal the seams with sealant - this is also a piece of work and financial costs. A familiar brigade of Ukrainians caulked the house, in the old fashioned way - with a hammer and a screwdriver they “punched” every slot. Every day I personally checked the quality of the work. But this part refers more to the design of the walls than to the finish: if you do not caulk, there will be no heat in the house.

Interior and design

The house is made in two colors. My wife likes a light shade, I like a dark one, so we can say that we shared the house (smiles.- Note. ed.). The interior design was done according to the individual design project of the wife of Lyudmila: colors, furniture and textiles. At the project stage, the living area with two bedrooms was separated from the guest area (living room and kitchen). We did this for convenience: so that guests who often visit us do not move in the host area. Bedrooms with a separate entrance from the street are not uncommon in European architecture, so we decided to borrow this experience.

Initially, it was planned that the entrance hall and the corridor would be open, something like a terrace. But later this idea was abandoned: in winter, running from wing to wing is not very convenient. Equipped with a warm floor, glazed - it turned out a spacious, well-lit corridor-entrance hall.

From the living room there is another exit to the covered veranda, it is very good to sit, think, read here.

Almost all the furniture in the house is attached, it was a design decision. The walls in the house move for the first two or three years, so almost all the furniture is on the floor. They didn’t even make an exception for the kitchen: we don’t have hanging cabinets, everything is stored in floor cabinets and two cabinets. The cooking area was stylized with a wall of painted clinker bricks, which lags behind the main log wall. In addition to being decorative, this wall also has a practical function: food preparation products do not get on the wood, they are not absorbed into it.

In the bathroom / toilet, a similar design and technical solution was made: they “crashed” into the log house with a wall of clinker bricks, to which the bathroom adjoins. The wall was painted with paint and covered with Remmers waterproof varnish. Both convenient and practical - the log wall behind the clinker "breathes", moisture does not get on it.

The two bedrooms are each furnished in their own way. Men's - in calm tones of natural wood, women's - light, in a classic style.

In this place of the living room, they decided to put either a fireplace or a stove, they have not decided yet. The opening has so far been filled with natural stone, interspersed with mica. It turned out to be a good design solution, albeit a temporary one.

The house itself cost us $110,000. with a total area of ​​147 sq.m. But, again, the price depends on what finishing materials you choose. We have, for example, expensive Italian tiles on the floor: about 45 USD. per sq. m., French sanitary ware and earthenware. Impregnations for wood were used of high quality, from well-known manufacturers and with a guarantee of at least 10 years, sealant is not very budgetary, etc. In a word, everything was done with high quality and from high-quality, expensive materials, although it could have been cheaper - it all depends on the budget and preferences.

Location on

Separate buildings on the site - a guest house with a garage and a summer kitchen, a bathhouse with a relaxation room and an open terrace.

There is a Russian stove in the guest building - not only for heating, but also for everyday cooking. Meat, duck, bread - you can bake everything in it. Ukrainians laid it, even brought special white clay from their homeland. The furnace, of course, will still crack slowly - the technology is the most traditional, all furnaces crack. But this room is ideal for receiving guests: here you can walk in shoes, a large table, dishes can be served directly from the stove ... Well, if someone gets tired, there is a bed at hand.

The property is adjacent to a garage. We combined the garage with the summer kitchen in order not to build a separate building: we saved on the foundation, a common roof, etc. Inside the garage, everything is painted in a gray metal primer, the floor is self-leveling, wear-resistant. Unlike the summer kitchen, the garage is not heated. But for a car, this is good: from a cold car to a warm one, without washing - this is to rust.

The sauna has a steam room with a wood-burning stove. Opposite the exit from the steam room there is a washing area, with a separate water drive into a tilting bucket, it is very convenient to douse yourself after the “steam”.

There is an original outdoor toilet on the site, which the Ecohome company built for me for free, as a bonus. It seems like a trifle - but it gives some originality to the landscape.

Conclusion: Happy with the house. Compared to stone, the air here is different, it is easier to breathe. Another aura, if you will. After we lived in it, there was an understanding of the importance of the layout of the house, its advantages and disadvantages. But now, having this knowledge, I understand what an ideal wooden house can become. Therefore, now I want to move out of my stone house in Almaty and build another wooden one there ... I don’t know if I will stop there. But so far I understand that it is in a wooden house that life is most comfortable.

Interviewed by: Dmitry Malakhov

The main mistakes in the construction of chopped wooden houses.

Chopped houses faithfully serve people for more than one millennium. Houses made of solid wood give their owners the incomparable pleasure of living in a comfortable microenvironment. Solid wood has a high heat capacity (2.4 times higher than that of ceramic bricks), which makes it possible to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations. Also, the porous structure of the tree allows you to naturally regulate the humidity in the room due to the cycles of absorption and evaporation of moisture. The frame is relatively resistant to soil and foundation movements. The wooden surface often does not require any additional processing, except for grinding and coating with antiseptics to create beautiful interiors.

However, only correctly cut wooden houses will give comfort to their owners. The construction of a log house requires high carpentry skills at the level of 6th category. Without experience and qualifications, it is almost impossible to cut down a wooden house without mistakes. And mistakes during construction can negate all the advantages of a log house. Houses built with mistakes are easy to recognize: builders or owners have to additionally insulate and sheathe them from the outside and inside to hide defects, eliminate through blowing of locks in the corners and interventional seams. One of the modern options for solid wood houses, practically devoid of the disadvantages of log cabins, are glued beam houses. Thanks to the features of this technology, blowing through the seams and cracking wood in such houses is practically impossible.

In this article, we will briefly touch on the most common mistakes in the construction of log houses.

1. Log preparation errors.

Mistakes in the choice of material for construction.

According to GOST 9463-88 “Softwood round timber”, pine, spruce, fir and larch round timber is suitable for building houses. Larch is the most expensive material, the hardest and most resistant to decay. Spruce has a lower density, excessive knotting and is prone to more cracking. The optimal tree for building a house is a pine aged from 80 to 120 (140) years old, grown in the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Angarsk, in Karelia) on dry sandy soil, at least 24 meters high. The best pine logs have a dark red or yellow-red core, indicating a high density of wood. More loose varieties have a pale yellow core. The forest of winter felling, contrary to folk legends, actually has a higher moisture content of sapwood (25-50% higher than in summer), more starch and, therefore, is more easily affected by fungi. It is possible to determine the round timber of winter felling using a qualitative test for starch: a stroke is applied to the debarked wood with an iodine pencil. If the stroke turns blue - in front of you is a tree cut down in winter.
For construction, it is allowed (this does not mean that you must agree to the purchase of such materials) timber with such defects as fungal blue and colored sap spots (depth not more than 1/20 - 1/10 of the end diameter), wormholes (no more than 5-10 pieces per 1 running meter), lateral cracks from shrinkage no more than 1/20 -1/5 of the end diameter, trunk curvature no more than 1-2% (1-2 cm per 1 running meter). Logs used for construction must have a run-off value (thinning of the log to the top) of no more than 0.8 cm per 1 m of length.

Rot (sapwood, rotten, sound) and tobacco knots (decayed knots of brown or white color, crumbling under load) are not allowed in round timber.

The minimum diameter of round timber for a residential building is 22-24 cm. The width of the grooves should be at least half the diameter of the log, and in the northern regions it can be increased even more. With a smaller size of the grooves, the consumption of timber decreases, but the thickness of the interventional seams becomes smaller, and the house becomes more “cold”.
The cutting of corners can be carried out without residue "in the paw" or with the remainder - "in the corner". Cutting "into a corner" makes the connections more reliable, and the log house more stable. In addition, the wood allowance better protects the castle from the effects of atmospheric factors. The cutting "in the paw" is usually used for the subsequent sheathing of corners or the entire log house. For residential buildings, the device for connecting logs in the corners must have internal locking elements that exclude the through blowing of the corner (connecting logs “in a bowl” with a barrier or “in a cloud” with a barrier). Due to its geometry (inverted bowl), cutting "in the cloud" allows better removal of moisture and faster drying of the joint. Cutting internal locking elements requires a highly skilled carpenter, such work takes more time and costs more. Otherwise, the corners of the residential building will be protected from blowing only with tow (heat-insulating material). This is one of the main disadvantages of round log houses, where log joints are manufactured industrially without additional internal locking elements.

Moisture content of timber for construction. SP 64.13330.2011 "Wooden structures" allows the use of raw solid wood for the construction of houses with a moisture content of up to 40% under the following conditions: the predicted shrinkage of wood should not violate the structure and compliance of the joints, and the timber itself must be subjected to antiseptic treatment and conditions must be provided for them for drying drying and moisture protection. It is optimal if the log house dries out, installed in place on the foundation and under the roof. Drying period from 6 months to 1 year. If the log house stood at the seller in the feet (separate parts of the log house with 5 crowns, convenient in height for processing) without a roof for 6-12 months, then with a high probability this means that the tree will be affected by rot. It is permissible to purchase log cabins that have stood under the roof.

It is important to understand that the higher the humidity of the timber, the greater the shrinkage of the tree, and the wider the gaps between the crowns, the gaps in the corner joints (especially with cutting defects), the more the tree will crack.

Why don't they cut down houses from dry wood? Dry wood has a greater density and hardness, and is much more difficult to process. The rounded log is subjected to chamber drying upon request after processing. However, kiln-dried wood can warp as the equilibrium moisture builds up on the construction site. They use Finnish and Karelian dry pine of equilibrium moisture in construction, but this is already an exclusive product. In addition, a properly assembled frame made of raw wood, during drying in the assembled state, “sits down” in place, reducing the size of the through slots and, accordingly, the coefficient of blowing through the walls. It is important to know that it is possible to paint (do not mean antiseptic treatment) wood only if its moisture content does not exceed 15%. Otherwise, the wood will crack badly when it dries. Therefore, the processing of log cabins is permissible only with vapor-permeable antiseptics. Treating a damp (damp) log house with a vapor-tight antiseptic will also cause the wood to crack as it dries.

For pins (dowels), only dry (no more than 12%) straight-grained wood without knots should be used. Birch pins must be antiseptic.

Fastening logs to metal elements (reinforcement trimmings, long nails) is not recommended, since moisture accumulates on the media section, and metal elements become centers of biological destruction of wood. Usually, rebar is used by unscrupulous builders to fasten and "tighten" crooked logs, which then leads to a violation of the normal shrinkage of the log house, the formation of cracks and the bulging of individual logs. It is strictly forbidden to pierce the corner joints of logs with nails, as this will interfere with the movement of the tree during shrinkage, and will contribute to the formation of cracks (nails after shrinkage of the tree will rise above the surfaces).

Types of timber processing for construction.
The most traditional for Russia is round timber. In Scandinavia, a carriage is used (from the Norwegian "lafteverk" - log cabin) - logs hewn from two opposite sides into two edges, or a semi-carriage - logs hewn one edge from the inside. The cost of a hewn log can be 35-50% higher than a round log. When processing round timber, builders sometimes leave parts of the bast (podkore) not removed. According to the norms, no more than 20% of the bast can remain on the round timber. However, it is better to remove the bast completely by shaving (planing), as the bast contains many polysaccharides, which are an excellent breeding ground for microorganisms and insects that can damage the wood. Also, when guarding, young layers of sapwood that are less resistant to damage by fungi and insects are removed.

2. Errors in the assembly of the log house.

Waterproofing must be laid between the first flashing crown and the foundation. Until now, for some reason, builders use for waterproofing a short-lived material based on cardboard - roofing material, in which through holes and cracks are formed in 7-10 years. For waterproofing, it is necessary to use modern bitumen-polymer materials with a service life of 25-50 years. Of course, the complete absence of waterproofing is also unacceptable. The use of a backing board under the flashing crown reduces heat losses by heat transfer from the frame to the foundation, reduces the risks of biological destruction of the flashing crown. According to the requirements of SP 64.13330.2011 "Wooden structures", such wooden linings (pillows) should be made of preservative wood, mainly hardwood (oak, aspen). If necessary, backing boards can be replaced with new ones. Replacing the crown crown is a much more time-consuming procedure. The lower crowns of the house must be protected from moisture. The greatest harm is caused by rain splashes reflected from the ground and snow rolled against the wall. To protect the logs from splashes and snow, it is recommended to raise the foundation above the planning mark by at least 40-50 cm.

Additional protection factors for the log house include splash-proof visors protruding above the plinth, long roof overhangs (75-120 cm) and equipping the roofs with gutters and pipes.

Orientation of logs when laying. Every tree has a natural curvature due to wind loads during tree growth. When laying logs, they will certainly be laid with the curvature upwards so that the loads from the overlying structures compensate for the bending of the wood. If you do not follow this principle, then the logs will stick out to the sides. Normally, the deviation of the crowns of chopped walls from the horizontal per 1 m of length should not exceed 3 mm.

The size of the interventional gaps should not exceed 1 mm. With the Russian felling system, it is quite difficult to fulfill this condition, since as the tree dries out, the cracks open up. The advantage is the Norwegian felling system with a wedged longitudinal groove and a sliding self-jamming lock, in which, as the tree dries out, the logs shrink relative to each other, reducing the size of the intervents cracks.

In Russia, traditionally, they continue to insulate the interventional gaps of log houses with natural materials such as flax, jute, felt, moss, etc., which are not elastic, are subject to biological destruction, and are a breeding ground for microorganisms and insects. All of these materials require repeated caulking. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia, an elastic self-expanding polyethylene foam tape is used as an interventional sealant, the use of which eliminates the need for repeated caulking.

If possible, you should avoid joining logs in crowns along the length. Such connections weaken the structure of the log house, and the walls of the log house can be deformed. The logs used in the construction should be as solid as possible. And it is definitely not worth making connections at the intersections of the walls, where load concentrations occur.

Shrinkage and swelling of wood along the fibers are manifested to a greater extent than across the fibers. Therefore, all vertical racks and columns must be equipped with shrinkage compensator platforms, which are tightened to the required shrinkage value, which can last up to 6-8 or more years. Perhaps a more aesthetic option is to install expansion joints at the bottom of the columns, where they are less visible.

It is not recommended to cut openings for windows and doors in the frame before the end of the first active period of wood drying (6-12 months). In the same period, do not hem the floor, ceiling and sheathe the walls, as this will interfere with normal ventilation and drying of the wood.

Particular attention should be paid to the ventilation of the underground space when installing wooden floors. The minimum cross-sectional area of ​​one vent should be at least 0.05 m 2, and the total area of ​​the vents should be at least 1/400 of the underground area. It should be noted that this design of floors is already archaic. In the world, floors are mainly used on the ground, which allow you to use geothermal, avoid problems with humidity in the underground space and the flow of radioactive soil gases into the house.

3. Mistakes in finishing a log house.

When arranging window and door openings, we should remember that the minimum distance between the openings is 90 cm. The walls must be reinforced with dowels. For installation in log houses, it is better to use windows and doors with frames at least 10 cm wide, which does not allow the window and door block to be deformed during the secondary caulking of the house.

The fastening of the bars for the frames of doors and windows should be sliding - without the use of nails, since the shrinkage of a wooden house can last quite a long time. Above windows and doors, compensation gaps are left under the top log for shrinkage of 5-8% of the opening height.

It is better to use self-expanding elastic sealing tapes for sealing window and door frames. Ordinary polyurethane foam can deform window frames when expanding, and form cracks when wood shrinks. If it is used, then after hardening it should be covered from the outside from exposure to the sun and moisture with a waterproofing vapor-permeable self-adhesive butyl rubber tape. From the inside, the foam must be covered with a vapor barrier tape. Unprotected foam quickly breaks down, as in the house in the photo below.

Finishing the interventional seams of the assembled log house after the end of the first stage of intensive drying (12-24 months) with glazing beads or a rope is only decorative, contributing to the waste of money and time, but not protecting the walls from blowing. Modern elastic and vapor-permeable interventional sealants (for example, from the domestic manufacturer SAZI) make it possible to protect interventional cracks from blowing through and create an aesthetic appearance of the walls.

Application of sealant.

External insulation of a wooden house. Most often, external insulation has to be resorted to when construction defects are detected, such as through blowing through walls. The main and most critical mistake is the external insulation of a wooden house with vapor-proof insulation (polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam). In this case, the tree is deprived of the opportunity to dry out, it is moistened, which increases its thermal conductivity and accelerates biological destruction. In clause 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings" it is prescribed to arrange the layers of multilayer walls in such a way that the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside of the heated house increases, and does not decrease.

Aesthetics of a wooden house. Often, lovers of wooden houses, where all the elements of the interior, such as walls, floors, ceilings, beams, railings, furniture are made of wood, find that they, perhaps, went a little too far with the number of wooden surfaces that create the feeling of living in a “wooden box”. To the rescue comes the change of furniture and the painting of the walls. However, it is wiser to plan contrasting surfaces in the house at the design stage. These can be floors, ceilings, countertop surfaces in the kitchen, steel elements of stairs and railings, decorative walls made of natural or artificial stone.

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare a beam.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can at any time refuse low-grade sawlogs), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will discuss below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying, the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs are used during construction (the so-called butt logs). These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Also, the selection criteria include the round shape and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a marriage is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length, for example, is 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to the diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of a log is 35 cm, while the tops are 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for the bath. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases, you can resort to a combination of "pine-spruce", in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. This can be done by yourself, found on the Internet or ordered from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Processing of timber

Step 1. After the consumables were brought to you (or you cut them down and delivered them yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, remove the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving it a little on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, store the logs about 25 cm from the ground. You can stack it as you like - in stacks, bundles, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparation of logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

We will immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

• strip foundation;
• columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “pillow” of sand and gravel on the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build a formwork 50 cm high and pour the concrete solution. As a result, the height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Foundation pouring

Inside the perimeter, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one or another option depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Column type foundation

If necessary, erect supports. There are two options here:

• brick;
• from asbestos pipes.

Place the supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Under each support, pre-lay a concrete "cushion". In each support, fix several reinforcement bars so that the latter protrude at least 30 cm above the surface.

Build a formwork 40 cm high, lay the reinforcement in it and tie it with the rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can proceed to further work.

Stage 4. Base waterproofing

Treat the surface of the foundation with melted and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparation of tools

To work, you will need the following equipment:

We will pay special attention to the last tool - the "line". For the manufacture will require steel wire with sharply sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the form of a compass, you can additionally fasten the handle. This tool will be required when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log cabin

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform, even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the crown crown (in other words, from the first). Logs, which will serve as a crown crown, otteshete on the edge for the most snug fit to the foundation.

Step 2 Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Lay the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! "Cup" is the simplest connection option in the construction of log buildings. It is carried out quite simply: at the bottom of the log, the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured, then with the help of the “line” a recess is marked. After re-checking the dimensions, the recess is carefully cut down with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - it will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the "cups" will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, in the gap that appears, lay a lining - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown, using the thickest possible logs. This is due to the fact that in the future you will cut sexual lags into them. For the purpose of a snug fit, make a longitudinal groove in the upper log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, lay the upper log on the lower one and mark it with a “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular and triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, then you can handle the triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with a similar groove will not connect tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw, use a chisel to remove residues.

Step 4. Insulate the log joints, preferably with linen jute. Lay one piece of canvas on the lower crown, seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns to each other. Here you can use:

• square dowels;
• round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because the dowels can be purchased ready-made and make holes with an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, simultaneously flashing a pair of upper crowns completely and not completely - the third (from below). To avoid distortion, at the end of shrinkage, sink the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. After raising the walls to the desired height, lay the ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If wet wood was used, then lay sheets of slate instead of rafters and wait for the structure to shrink. Usually, it is enough to spend the winter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is completed, proceed to the caulking.

Video - Aspen shingle roof

Stage 7. Door, window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

At the end of the shrinkage, the caulking of the log house is performed. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

• a hammer;
• caulking (wood or metal).

Attention! If you compacted the interventional space with tow or moss, then you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need a caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then the procedure is still better to perform.

Start work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a bundle, then hammer between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video - Log Caulking

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can start building. If you do this earlier, then the roof will simply lead.

Step 1 Lay wooden beams on the wall trim (we have already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at an appropriate angle for connection.

Step 3. Nail a solid boardwalk to the rafters (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a crate (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6 Sew up the gables of the roof with siding or clapboard.

An example of a log house with a shingle roof

1. Sometimes, during assembly, it becomes necessary to join the logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, in the lower crown, docking is unacceptable.
2. When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can collect logs even before drying, laying a sealant between them.
3. It is advisable to equip windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to builddo-it-yourself log cabin.

Log houses are very popular in many countries, as they are environmentally friendly and attractive. Such buildings are most often chosen by people who want to move away from ultra-modern and futuristic design ideas. After reading this article, you will learn how to assemble and install a log house.

What it is?

If you are going to move on to considering the technology of building a log house, it is worth understanding what a log house is.

A log house is an environmentally friendly and beautiful structure, consisting of wooden logs. Such structures do not have a floor, roof or crate. Simply put, a log house is a “naked” frame of a house.

Such buildings are ideal solutions for those people who want to "put" a house or a bath in the shortest possible time. In addition, the log house is popular because it has an acceptable cost. This attracts many consumers.

Features and types

Wooden houses have always been in demand, and this is due not only to their natural appearance, but also to their good performance characteristics. In such dwellings at all times it was warm in the winter season, and in summer it was cool and as comfortable as possible.

Currently, wooden buildings are still relevant, despite the large selection of building materials that can be used to build reliable and durable houses. Consumers prefer a log house, because it takes very little time to build it, and all the necessary stages of work cannot be called too complicated.

It is quite natural that modern log houses are very different from those buildings that were common in the distant past. Today, such dwellings can be decorated in any style. Log buildings look especially harmonious and cozy, in which there is a fireplace and appropriate decorative elements - for example, fluffy floor carpets.

Our ancestors built wooden houses with their own hands, although working with timber cannot be classified as very simple. Today, you can create a frame building not only on your own, but also by contacting a team of professionals (with special tools and rich work experience).

For the construction of a log house, coniferous wood is most often used. The most popular are pine and spruce. Such materials are not only environmentally friendly and fragrant, but also relatively inexpensive. If the budget allows, you can build a log house from alder, oak or larch. These materials will cost much more than spruce or pine, but their appearance and performance justify the high prices.

A feature of log buildings is that they are often built in the winter season. Some experts say that such construction is more profitable, since, for example, a coniferous tree at low temperatures is not susceptible to fungal attack. In addition, the masters say that in winter the tree becomes more pliable and easier to process.

If you are going to build a log house, you need to take the drafting of its project as seriously as possible. It is necessary to think over absolutely all the details and trifles, taking into account the following distinctive features of natural material:

• do not forget that wooden buildings always shrink over time;
• such materials can be twisted;
• wooden blanks must be of a suitable size (there are certain restrictions);
• the log house is not designed for too large loads.

If you make a plan for the future home with errors, then in the future the whole structure may turn out to be uneven and skewed. In addition, ugly cracks and other defects may appear on the wood, which will be impossible to get rid of.

Log buildings are also distinguished by the fact that their service life can be extended if proper care is provided for them. If you neglect this rule, the house may not last long, while quickly losing its aesthetic appearance.

Currently, there are several types of log buildings. Their names come from the number of wall slabs present in the structure. Most often in our time there are the following options for log cabins.

Thursday

This is the name of a four-wall log house, which is otherwise called "four-wall". It is rightfully recognized as the simplest, even uncomplicated, and therefore occurs most often.

The name of such a log house speaks for itself: it has four walls. As a rule, the design of the quadrangle has a square, diamond-shaped or rectangular shape.

Five-walled

As you can see from the name, there are five walls in such a building. Outwardly, this log house is a quadrangular frame with an additional partition - the fifth wall. A five-wall is two 2 four-walls with one common overlap.

Six-wall

The six-wall is a more advanced version of the five-wall. Such a building differs from the above in that it has 2 partitions. Moreover, they are all located on the outer floors. The room is divided into 3 or even 4 rooms.

octagon

Not every consumer knows what a log house under that name is. This design is more complex, but also more attractive. The octagon is a luxurious octahedron in which all corners form a single space.

tumbler

A log house with this memorable name is something like a tower built into the main structure, in which there is a roof.

All of the listed types of log cabins are the most common and frequently encountered. Of course, there are more original, unusual designs (non-standard shapes and sizes). Before use, the tree is subjected to manual or machine processing. If at the same time residual pieces of bark are not removed from the material, then the bars are called "barked logs".

Log structures can differ from each other not only in the materials used and the number of walls, but also in corner joints. There are several basic options for such "locks" that are used in the production of log frames.

"In the paw"

Otherwise, such a lock structure is called a corner without a trace (refers to Russian felling). In such a structure, the logs are fastened together with the help of special wooden locks, which are cut down to the end of the logs. In this case, the ends do not fall outside the walls of the log house. Such structures have been addressed before, as they have an aesthetic appearance. However, buildings with a corner without a trace also have their weaknesses, which you should be aware of before building them:

• It should be noted that such a corner will be ventilated and cold enough. It will require better and more efficient insulation.
• If you do not fasten the logs together with dowels, as a result, the log house may not be as stable and reliable as you planned.

With the remainder

In structures that have corners with a rest, the ends of the logs protrude beyond the walls of the log house by about 20-30 cm. Such an angle is considered more reliable. In addition, it is made easily and quickly, and the result is a windproof and rather warm part.

Today, many craftsmen use the angle with the remainder when building a log house.

"Okhryap"

With this type of angle, small recesses are selected in the upper and lower logs, into which the products then “get up”. In this case, the hole in the lower log should correspond to the size of the lower one (and vice versa).

Currently, this type of angle is used very rarely, since it can be quite problematic to fit and make it windproof. It is permissible to use the "okhryap" part if it is necessary that the crests of all logs of the crown be in the same horizontal plane.

"Into the bowl"

The most common is rightfully recognized as the "okryap" angle. The main advantages of this option are ease of manufacture and excellent thermal properties.

You can also select a variant called the "upper bowl" - a clapping-reflection of the "lower part" vertically. In this case, the bowl lies on a log.

However, it should be borne in mind that today this ("upper bowl") type of angle is used much more often than the "lower" one, since it is made in a simple way and does not require serious energy costs.

"A bowl in a fat tail"

This is the name of another type of angle, which can be used both in the construction of a house and in the construction of a bath. The main advantage of such an element is that it is not ventilated and has a design that makes it very easy to work with.

Such an angle is distinguished by the fact that in the lower part of its bowl there is always a small protrusion that runs along the log. At the same time, a suitable recess is selected in the log, which is placed on the bowl.

Canadian and Norwegian felling (carriage)

Norwegian cutting is most often found in the Scandinavian countries. With this method, not round, but oval semi-bars are used for the construction of houses (otherwise such a detail is called a "carriage"). Such logs are sawn on a sawmill from 2 sides.

During the Norwegian felling, the ledges on the walls are sawn off, after which a rather dense bowl is made in the corner sections and cuts. Such a structure has a positive effect on the thermal insulation properties of the structure. However, it is recommended to protect the log house with a gun carriage from blowing. To do this, you need to install special seals - caulks.

Canadian felling is in many ways similar to Norwegian felling and has all its positive qualities.

The main similarity of the two methods is that with them all the connecting elements are self-jamming. In the process of drying, the crowns become more dense, while forming an almost complete monolithic wall.

The Canadian logging method is considered complex and time-consuming. The tree must be as precisely fitted and prepared for work as possible. It is recommended to carry out such work only by experienced craftsmen who have previously encountered similar processes.

Advantages and disadvantages

Log houses are very popular today. Everyone wants to have a home in which he will be as comfortable and cozy as possible, and such buildings do an excellent job with such tasks.

Log cabins have both advantages and disadvantages. You should definitely familiarize yourself with them if you are going to put such a structure on the site.

First, let's look at the advantages of log structures:

• The main advantage of a log house is its environmental friendliness. Nowadays, safe materials that do not contain toxic compounds are becoming less and less common, which is why natural and safe products are so valued among modern consumers.
• Another advantage of log buildings is their appearance. And we are talking not only about an attractive facade, but also about the harmonious interior of the home. Staying in such an environment is a pleasure, allowing you to relax.
• Some log houses do not require additional insulation, so when building them, you can save a lot of money. It is possible not to insulate buildings erected from logs with a diameter of 25 cm.
• The microclimate in a log house is ideal for people suffering from certain diseases. Experts say that coniferous materials have a positive effect on human health. That is why in the past many people turned to coniferous treatment.

• A natural and high-quality log house is a practical material that does not require special attention. It does not need to be treated with antiseptic impregnations or antifungal agents. It should be borne in mind that wood (especially coniferous) emits a lot of resin, which plays the role of a natural antiseptic.
• In the construction of a log building, whips of such a length are used at which materials are consumed very economically, and the integrity of large areas remains intact.
• Houses made of planed material have a long service life. It is believed that for such buildings and 100 years is not the limit.
• When decorating houses built from natural materials, you can significantly save on decoration.
• Masters (both experienced and beginners) say that the construction of a log house does not take much time.

Due to the large number of positive qualities, log buildings are very popular today. However, they are not ideal - such houses have their own drawbacks, among which the following features can be noted:

• To many consumers, such buildings seem quite expensive. A high-quality and reliable log house should not be built from cheap and low-grade material.
• Some structures are complex in terms of construction. These buildings include houses made of oak. It is not recommended to do such constructions on your own - it is better to entrust this painstaking and time-consuming work to more experienced people.
• Do not count on the fact that you will be able to celebrate a housewarming party in the very first autumn, summer or winter after the construction of the building, since you first need to wait for it to shrink.
• It is necessary to pay special attention to the foundation. Even a small log house will have an impressive weight, so do not rely on piles or poles (the bath is an exception). Without a high-quality and reliable foundation, the log structure can tip over - despite the external compactness.
• The log house must be treated with a fire retardant, which makes the structure more fireproof. It is not recommended to neglect this process.
• Most modern log houses require regular maintenance. Of course, really high-quality materials do not rot, but today logs are more common, which still need to be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Of course, many of the problems associated with a log house can be avoided if it is properly processed and placed just as correctly. In addition, it is very important to use high-quality natural materials for construction.

wood requirements

For the construction of a log house, you need to carefully select the wood. It must meet certain requirements so that the result is a durable and strong structure.

An important role is played by the diameter of the logs. For the construction of houses, it is recommended to use materials with a diameter of 24-32 cm. Small logs, of course, are much cheaper, but they look less aesthetically pleasing.

For a large building, it is not recommended to use thin trunks - in such conditions they will look ridiculous. A diameter of 28 cm is considered optimal. For building a house, you can purchase logs with a diameter of 30-40 cm, but such materials will be expensive.

On the surface of the logs there should be no serious damage, defects, traces of decay, mold or fungus. There should be no black, blue or any other dark spots on the wood.

Experts do not recommend purchasing a disassembled beam. If the structure has lain disassembled for a certain time, then it may simply fold up incorrectly. This is due to varying degrees of drying of the trunks.

Keep an eye on the moisture content of the wood. It must be well dried. Materials with a natural level of moisture are in many ways inferior to similar specimens.

The choice of building material

If you decide to build a log house with your own hands, then you should seriously consider the choice of building materials.

Pine

Pine is an unpretentious material that has a long service life. Experts say that it is easiest to work with such wood, since it is very malleable.

The following types of pines are used for construction:

• ordinary;
• flexible;
• resinous;
• swamp;
• Korean.

The best option are pine species that grow in the northern zone: Angarsk, Karelian, Arkhangelsk.

Most consumers prefer pine because it is not only practical and beautiful, but also inexpensive. However, it also has its weaknesses:

• pine shrinks like any other type of natural wood;
• this material is prone to cracking;
• pine is afraid of a high level of dampness and moisture, so it will have to be especially diligently treated with protective agents so that it retains its qualities for many years.

Larch

Larch log cabins are also very common. This wood is quite strong and durable. In addition, larch is relatively expensive. It is also worth noting that when dried, this tree is not subject to decay, which is very important for such a material.

Such wood is considered medicinal. As for the strength characteristics, here larch can be compared with a solid and expensive oak. It is not easy to damage or break, but at the same time it is sold at an affordable price.

However, larch is less malleable and softer than pine. For this reason, such wood is difficult to process in any way. This makes it difficult to work with her.

Aspen

A pleasant light shade has a natural aspen. It is very easy to work with such wood, because it is not capricious. Aspen has the following important advantages:

• such a tree is not subject to the formation of wormholes;
• in a dry state, such a building material is very elastic;
• aspen beams are characterized by minimal deflection, but at the same time they are light in weight;
• upon contact with water and its complete drying, the aspen does not collapse and does not deform;
• even at a temperature of +100 degrees, aspen does not emit resin (unlike conifers).

Such a building material is rightfully recognized as practical and durable. However, it is worth noting that in our time it is not so easy to find really high-quality pine bars. When building a log house, only well-dried wood of this species can be used.

Cedar

Cedar has a soft wood structure. In many respects, this material is similar to pine - it is also easily amenable to various types of processing. Cedar can be safely used for interior decoration, as it has a rather pleasant texture and no less pleasant natural aroma.

In addition, buildings made of cedar have the following advantages:

• high strength;
• relatively small weight;
• resistance to the harmful effects of moisture and dampness;
• good sound and heat insulation properties;
• ease of processing;
• attractive appearance.

Buildings built from cedar, as a rule, have a slight reddish tint. If knots are found on such wood, then they are less dense and strong than those of pine or spruce. However, it should be borne in mind that without additional finishing, the cedar begins to darken, and much faster than, for example, the same pine.

Oak

If you want to build a solid and chic log house, then you should use oak logs. As a rule, such materials are quite expensive, but they look simply amazing and have enviable strength characteristics.

Oak buildings have many advantages for which modern consumers choose them:

• Oak logs have a dense structure made of wood fibers, thanks to which this material can be used without regular antiseptic treatments.
• Such wood burns very poorly, as it has a high density.
• An oak log house is not afraid of insects or mice.
• This type of wood warms up slowly, but retains heat for a long time, which has a positive effect on the internal microclimate in houses.

Oak log cabins are not without certain disadvantages:

• High density is both a plus and a minus. Because of this feature, such material has an impressive weight, so it is not always convenient to work with it, and the foundation for it needs to be as strong and reliable as possible.
• Not every master knows how to work with oak - it is difficult to process.
• Another serious disadvantage of such wood is its high cost.

Having chosen one or another material for the construction of a log house, it is necessary to inspect it for the presence of the above darkening, destruction and traces of decay. You also need to purchase materials of a suitable diameter.

Construction stages

After acquiring the necessary material, you can begin to build a log house. It is necessary to begin such work with a careful preparation of technical specifications. It is on its basis that the entire list of required works will be formed.

After that, as a rule, a draft design is drawn up. It is developed to determine all the features related both to the circuit itself and to the design as a whole. In addition, on the sketch, the master will be able to notice in which places something needs to be corrected.

Then you can proceed to the preparation of a working draft. To do this, you can contact experienced professionals. The working draft is a draft design with all the details and nuances. Such documentation is used by builders to achieve maximum resemblance to the original preferences of the customer. It is very important to include both text and graphic materials in the working draft.

When the plan is completed, you should proceed to pouring the foundation. The base under the log house should be sufficiently reliable and strong so that over time it does not squint and collapse. Most often, for wooden buildings, a tape version of the foundation is used.

For its construction along the perimeter and under the future wall ceilings, you need to dig a trench. Its width should be about 40 cm, and the depth - 50 cm. Put a "pillow" of sand and gravel on the bottom. Then you should lay the reinforcement and build a formwork 50 cm high. After that, you can proceed to the direct pouring of concrete. As a result, you will get a foundation, the height of which will be about 1 m.

Next, you need to carry out high-quality waterproofing of the base. To do this, the surface of the foundation can be covered with molten bitumen, and a layer of roofing material can be laid on top. When the bitumen is completely dry, the procedure can be repeated. The result is an effective two-layer waterproofing.

The next step will be the development of a project of engineering networks. Its features will depend only on the desires of the owners. Most often, a simple diagram is drawn up for this, on which there is an arrangement of all the main points. At this stage, the design of the future building should also be developed.

For further work, you will need the following tools:

• chisel;
• special carpenter's ax;
• chainsaw (it is advisable to stock up on a tool with medium power);
• plumb;
• building level;
• electric drill;
• mallet;
• trait.

Particular attention should be paid to such a tool as a trait.

To make it, you need to take a steel wire with sharp edges. Bend it in half so that it takes on a compass-like shape. It is permissible to additionally fix the handle. This tool will be needed for marking logs.

If you have all the necessary tools in stock, then you can proceed to the assembly of the log house. All varieties of such structures were listed above, but it is the Russian felling that is most often found. It is the easiest to perform, and even a novice carpenter can handle such work.

The construction of the log house itself must be carried out in stages, starting with the crown crown (from the starting one). The logs, which will play the role of a mortgage crown, need to be hewn to the edge - for a tighter connection to the foundation.

However, to begin with, it is worth putting a “padding board” on the foundation. Linden is suitable for this. It can be a beam 50-100 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide. After constructing the mortgage crown, you can proceed directly to the assembly of the log house.

Lay the first pair of logs on the foundation waterproofing. The second pair should be laid at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the starting parts. Combine everything in a "cup".

When constructing such a structure, it is permissible to use a chainsaw. With its help, you can significantly save valuable time. However, the final finishing of the “cups” in any case must be done with an ax.

After the first, a second crown should be laid. For him, it is better to choose thicker logs, since in the future floor logs will be mounted in them. To maximize the fit, it is worth making a longitudinal groove in the upper log. This element should be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To outline the boundaries of the groove, you need to lay the upper log on the lower one and make a markup using the line.

An important step is the insulation of logs. For this, a special linen jute cloth is most often used. One of its segments is placed on the lower crown, and the second is insulated with a longitudinal groove.

• square dowels;
• round wooden dowels.

Experts advise using wooden pins, since you can buy them already prepared and simply make the necessary holes with an electric drill.

Holes must be made in increments of 1-1.5 m. In parallel, completely sew some of the upper crowns, and the third crown, located below, is not completely. To avoid the bevel of the structure, after its shrinkage, you need to drown the dowels in the crown, which is 6-7 cm from above.

When you raise the wall ceilings to the height you need, you will need to put ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If during construction you used wet wood, then instead of rafters, you should use slate sheets. After that, you should wait for the shrinkage of the structure. As a rule, for this you need to winter only once, but according to all the rules, it takes a year and a half to shrink.

With the onset of spring, when the shrinkage is completed (partially or completely), you can start caulking.

As for door and window openings, it is permissible to equip them in two ways:

• In the first version of the arrangement of these parts, all holes are made only after the completion of construction work. At the same time, small gaps must be left in the crowns that are located in the places of future openings (their dimensions depend on the size of the window and door structures). When you install all the logs, the openings will only be cut with a chainsaw.
• In the second case, all openings must be prepared during the construction of the log house. This arrangement option is considered more complex and energy-intensive, since you will have a bar with cutting at the ends, as well as special grooves in front of you.

When the shrinkage of the entire structure is over, it will be possible to proceed to the next stage. To do this, you will need a hammer and a caulk (wooden or metal).

It is permissible to start work only after the insulation has completely dried out. First you need to twist the materials (moss and tow) into a bundle, and then hammer them into the spaces between the crowns (using a caulk and a hammer).

It is also acceptable to use a tape harness. Such material is installed using nails or a special construction stapler.

After shrinkage of the wood, you can proceed to the construction of the roof. You should not start such work earlier, otherwise the structure may be deformed during the shrinkage of the log house. Stages of work:

• Lay wooden beams on the wall framing.
• Fix them in one position and attach the legs of the rafters to them. In this case, a step of 1 m should be maintained.
• In the ridge part, you need to cut the rafters at the right angle (for connection).
• It is necessary to nail a solid flooring of boards to the rafter legs, especially if you are going to lay a flexible roof on the roof.
• Instead of a solid flooring, a crate can also be constructed. Such a base is most suitable for tiles, slate.
• After that, put the roof on the roof.
• The ridge should be covered with a sheet of galvanized steel to protect it from negative external factors.
• Roof gables will need cladding. For this, for example, siding or lining is suitable.

After installing the roof, you can move on to other work: pouring a concrete screed or installing wooden floors. In the second case, it is necessary to cut the logs into the logs of the second crown and fix them securely. Next, you will need to start laying the insulation and complete the interior decoration of the house.

Grinding and processing

When the building material was just delivered to you (or you brought it yourself), it needs about 25-30 days to rest. After that, you need to carefully consider and sort through all the logs that you bought to build a log house. Leave only the highest quality items. A tree with defects and damage must be rejected.

After sorting the material, you can start processing it. To begin with, the logs must be cleaned of bark. However, it is recommended to do this as carefully as possible so as not to harm the wood. You need to leave small areas of bark on the sides (about 15 cm on each side).

After removing the bark, the logs should be put aside for storage. In this case, the materials should be about 25 cm from the ground, and not lie on it. At the same time, you can lay the logs as you like, it is only important to leave a distance of 7-10 cm between the individual elements.

In order for the log house to last as long as possible, it is recommended to sand it from the outside, and then treat it with a special coating. However, it should be borne in mind that the process of polishing a log house is complex and time-consuming. This will require special tools and a lot of free time.

High-quality grinding and processing are a guarantee of:

It is also worth considering what advantages the polishing of the log house has:

• Mechanical processing of wood relieves the material of cracks, irregularities and unpleasant roughness. Treated logs look much neater and more attractive.
• Wood that has been sanded acquires excellent adhesive properties, so its painting becomes faster and easier. The coating lasts a very long time.
• After polishing is completed, the tree can acquire a pleasant natural texture, which is the main advantage of log structures.
• By grinding, you can save the tree from premature aging.

Grinding can be done by hand, but for this you need to use special tools. A belt sander is perfect for this kind of work.

If the log house is built from logs of a semicircular shape, then a belt machine will not work for grinding it. Here it is better to use a grinder with special grinding nozzles.

Sanding the log house can only be started after it has completely dried. If you proceed to such work immediately after erection, then excess moisture in the structure of the tree will not allow you to make the material as smooth and even as possible.

After grinding, the log house must be treated with the following means:

• antiseptic agents that protect the tree from the appearance of mold and fungus;
• glazing compounds that transform the appearance of wood;
• fire retardants, which make wood more fire resistant.

Warming

With the right insulation, a log house becomes more comfortable. Today, the range of such materials is very wide, so it will be possible to choose the best products for any basis.

To insulate a country house or a log cottage, you can use various materials, each of which has its own characteristics. There are the following main categories of similar products:

• synthetic, which have artificial components in their composition;
• natural interventional heaters made from natural materials.

Synthetic heaters include expanded polystyrene, mineral and basalt wool and other similar materials.

One of the most popular insulation for floors, walls and ceilings is mineral wool. It is made from slag, fiberglass and various rocks.

The main advantages of mineral wool are:

• excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
• water resistance, which is very important for high-quality insulation;
• resistance to most aggressive chemicals;
• good air exchange characteristics;
• soundproof characteristics;
• fire resistance;
• durability (the service life of mineral wool is 25-30 years);
• environmental friendliness.

As for the minuses of mineral wool, these include:

• a sufficiently high level of dusting;
• when wet, this material loses its positive qualities.

However, this insulation does not tolerate contact with the sun's rays - they simply destroy or deform it. In addition, expanded polystyrene cannot boast of good soundproofing characteristics. Many consumers refuse to purchase this insulation because of its flammability.

Some experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses with polystyrene foam, since this material does not pass moisture out very effectively, and this leads to condensation. Because of this, wooden bases can darken and begin to rot.

For warming the log house, it is desirable to use materials of natural origin. Of course, you can also buy synthetic products, but with them you will not be able to achieve the “living house” effect that wood buildings are so good at. So, for example, if you insulate a log house with materials without pores, then it will simply “suffocate” while under a protective film.

Porous insulation materials, which are in great demand today, can adversely affect wood structures. Such coatings, absorbing excess moisture, do not change in size, and this condition is important for natural wood. As a result, gaps and blown parts will necessarily appear in such a design.

If you want to choose a natural material, then you should correctly select a high-quality interventional insulation. In this case, wool fiber, sealants or special heat-insulating tapes will not work. To insulate the timber, it is better to choose flax, jute, moss.

Moss has been used to insulate wooden houses in Russia since ancient times. However, it must be borne in mind that not every natural material is used in construction. The best for this is a special red moss, which is otherwise called "cuckoo flax". It grows in marshy northern territories. In nature, red moss is not so common. To warm the log house, it is permissible to use white sphagnum moss.

Moss as a natural interventional insulation has the following positive characteristics:

• has bactericidal properties, therefore it is not subject to the appearance of rot or mold;
• is strong and resilient (due to its fibers);
• allows you to maintain an optimal microclimate in the log structure, as it boasts excellent vapor and gas permeability characteristics;
• able to absorb excess moisture;
• is environmentally friendly and safe.

If we compare sphagnum and red moss, it is worth noting that the former is less durable, but at the same time more affordable.

It is possible to close interventional cracks with the help of jute insulation. In this case, it is not at all necessary to use moss.

Jute pads for warming a log house have the following advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• contain lignin fibers that prevent rotting of the material;
• have excellent thermal insulation properties.

Thanks to special processing, tow, felt and linen-jute are obtained from annual jute.

The main disadvantage of jute is that it can shrink over time and is quite expensive.

Another natural insulation for a log house is flax. It is often used in the construction of houses and baths. At present, such warming materials as flax and tow are made from flax. Both materials are environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. In addition, these materials are quite dense, so they do an excellent job with their main task.

Consider how to properly finish a log house with natural interventional insulation.

• First, a layer of insulating material is laid on a log - it must be rolled out along its entire length.
• Next, you need to put the next log on top to securely fix the insulation. At this stage, you can use a construction stapler, which will provide the most durable and durable fastening.
• Make sure that the insulation does not roll into a thin flagellum. On the contrary - its edges should hang down on the sides by 5 cm when it is sandwiched between wooden parts.
• Hanging excess will need to be pushed into the depth of the seam. It is most convenient to do this with a chisel.

This process of timber insulation is otherwise called the primary caulk. Only a year later, when the building shrinks, similar work will need to be done again.

Common Mistakes

When building a log house, many masters face a number of common problems. Let's consider them in detail:

• One of the most common mistakes is the wrong selection of materials for construction. For the purpose of erecting a log house, it is permissible to use round timber of pine, spruce, fir, larch and other similar species. A big mistake would be to purchase materials with rot and tobacco knots.
• It is very important to purchase dry materials. Raw wood will be very difficult to work with, and it will not last too long.
• For pins, only dry and straight-grained wood, on which there are no knots, can be used. If you use birch pins, then they must be covered with antiseptics. Many home craftsmen neglect such work, but in fact this should not be done. In addition, it is not recommended to make dowels from coniferous and hardwood.
• Do not clean the logs from the bast completely. Otherwise, such materials will attract insects and fungi.

• Do not forget about laying waterproofing between the flashing crown and the foundation. To do this, some use short-lived materials - such as roofing material. Experts recommend purchasing more modern polymer-bitumen coatings for waterproofing.
• When assembling a house, you need to remember that each log has a certain degree of curvature. Lay these materials with the curvature up. If this principle is not taken into account, the logs can strongly protrude in different directions.
• Another common mistake is not observing the size of the interventional gap. It should not exceed 1 mm. With manual felling, it is difficult to follow this rule; drying out of the tree leads to an increase in cracks. Avoid connecting logs in crowns along the length, otherwise the structure will not be very strong.

• Outside, wooden houses cannot be insulated with vapor-permeable materials - for example, polystyrene foam. In this case, the wood stops “breathing” and completely dries out, and a high level of humidity will destroy it over time.
• Flexible mats should not be used to insulate the log house. Instead, it is recommended to install more rigid materials in the form of plates.
• Often craftsmen carelessly transport building materials. This error may damage them.

• In the process of erecting a log house, all vertical racks can be supplemented with such a detail as a shrinkage compensator, which is a kind of jack.
• Watch for side cracks on the logs - they should not go deeper than 1/5 of the diameter of the end of the log.
• Do not leave the log house to dry out without a roof. This can lead to its rapid decay.
• It is recommended to install special visors in the structure, which will protect the log house from negative external factors - for example, from rain.

• Log houses should not be sealed with polyurethane foam in places of window and door openings.
• Do not proceed with the insulation of the log house without checking the condition of the wood - first discard the damaged parts and areas with defects.

For information on what mistakes can be made when building a wooden frame, see the video below.

Currently, the construction industry is in great demand and the original projects of houses made of logs are being implemented. This fact can be attributed to today's continuation of the traditions of Russian wooden architecture. However, such fame does not always imply historical memory.

Peculiarities

The undoubted advantage of houses made of logs is environmental friendliness. They always have that unique atmosphere that is characteristic only of wooden buildings. The tree can independently regulate the necessary humidity in the rooms, taking excess moisture with increased dampness and releasing it when the air is dry. The assembly of houses from high-quality logs can be carried out without the participation of construction equipment, only by the efforts of the construction team.

The rounded beam from the beginning to the end is always of the same diameter and is practically ready for use without any processing. In many cases, the external and internal appearance of structures does not require any additional finishing, because the tree is already quite beautiful and aesthetic. With proper insulation of the log house, the house retains heat much longer, for example, than a brick building.

The cost of a house made of rounded timber will be lower than the same area of ​​a building made of brick or stone.

It is clear that the tree has its drawbacks, as well as other building materials. Chief among these is an increased vulnerability to intermittent exposure to moisture, unpredictable fire, and various micro-organisms. However, it is very easy to solve this issue if the necessary elements of the structure are processed correctly with special protective equipment. Wooden houses are subject to shrinkage. Giving up moisture, the log loses its original parameters, this process is especially felt for the first time in 2-3 years. For this reason, after assembly, the log house is left to stand for at least one year, and only after that further finishing work is carried out.

If desired, you can design two-story houses with a bay window made of round or cylindrical logs of various sizes, but The most popular are buildings with such dimensions as:

• 150 sq. m;
• 100 sq. m;
• 120 sq. m;
• 6x8 m;
• 6x6 m;
• 9x9 m;
• 6x9 m;
• 6 by 8 m.

Drawings and diagrams

Thinking about building a new house, you first need to choose a project that suits your taste and wallet. To do this, you can use ready-made projects or still turn to professional specialists, since some points are difficult to take into account in an independent project. However, no one forbade creating rough sketches, diagrams and drawings for amateurs. Quite often, the interior space of a wooden house is divided into two zones: residential and utility. The first is further divided into evening and daytime. These, in turn, are divided into separate rooms for adults, children and possible guests.

The day part includes such premises as an entrance hall, a small vestibule, a living room. A pantry, a cozy kitchen, a laundry room, a garage for a car, a boiler room and others belong to the household.

In addition, it is quite possible to reduce the cost of a future dream home made of logs due to even a minimal reduction in the number of corridors and halls. To do this, you will need to connect several rooms with each other at the time of design. For example, on the balcony of the bedroom, you can make an office, and equip some of the rooms with walk-throughs. One of the optimal solutions is considered to be a wooden house plan, where the kitchen merges with the living dining area.

Approximate drawing of the layout of the first floor of the house 10x9 m

It is desirable for all family members to equip separate rooms. You can gather all together in a large living room or in a special room for relaxation.

Drawing of the second floor

If several families are planned to live in the house, then their territory should be provided with their own rooms, a separate bathroom, and, if possible, an exit. Premises for elderly family members will be more conveniently located on the lower floor. It is advisable to plan at least two different entrances in the house: one from the side of the terrace or, for example, a veranda, and make the other from the side of the entrance to the site.

The staircase and its platform need good lighting. Therefore, to solve this issue, it would be best to make a window through which the sun's rays will enter the room.

House plan 8x8 m with attic and terrace

Important: when choosing or creating a house project from logs, experts categorically forbid using projects from other building materials.

By itself, wood, if we consider it as a building material, is quite aesthetic and noble. Therefore, when arranging the interior in a wooden house, owners very often, if not completely exclude, then minimize the use of non-natural (synthetic or plastic) decorative elements. The interior of the house should be decorated, emphasizing the natural, natural beauty of the tree. There are several styles to create a cozy environment for future housing.

Russian style in the interior of modernity implies a harmonious combination of the traditional style of the Russian wooden hut and the design manners of the present. When decorating a house in this style, you should feel the measure so that the design does not turn into a clumsy popular print. To recreate the right atmosphere of a Russian hut, designers recommend using a number of techniques.

• To decorate a modern house, especially with large areas, you can use a fireplace stylized as a Russian stove. It can also be simply simulated, given the impossibility of using its direct purpose.
• Natural, high-quality wooden furniture will complement the interior in Russian style. In the kitchen, you can put a large dining table, symbolizing hospitality and hospitality, and place benches instead of ordinary chairs around the table. Carving elements can be evenly included in the furniture design.
• Accessories should reflect the originality of the style, while not forgetting the ethnic features of the area or, conversely, revealing the features of the region from which places the owners of the house come from.
• Textiles must be natural. Beautiful, lacy white tablecloths and curtains, handmade rugs, embroidered towels - all this will create additional comfort and decorate your home.

Country style for a modern home is quite free and depends on national specifics and taste priorities of future residents.

• Northern peoples prefer home decoration with natural stone. They will surely provide for the presence of a fireplace, and under their feet they will lay the skin of a wild beast.
• The style of the southern peoples determines the presence of a veranda or terrace, the arrangement of furniture does not exclude light garden elements, as well as rocking chairs.
• British country style implies a fairly simple home decoration, diluted with unusual details, such as a Persian carpet, many glass elements, lacquered furniture and other elements. Additionally, the country style can be decorated with forged elements and products, which will give the room a refined taste and solidity of things.

In the retro style, a noble estate is taken as the fundamental principle, which implies the embodiment of the idea of ​​​​a family nest. Techniques such as, for example, imitation of aged walls are used. Instead of interior doors, curtains with beautifully flowing waves are used. Antique black-and-white family photos are placed in strict frames.

For the arrangement of rooms, such unusual vintage decor elements as grates on fireplaces, heavy chests of drawers, forged products, an antique oak desk and even candelabra with candlesticks are used.

The main purpose of the retro style is to lay some family traditions of future residents in the decor of the Internet.

materials

In the construction of wooden houses, logs of standard sizes with a diameter of 180 to 280 mm in increments of 20 mm are used. The thickness of the log is selected based on the size and number of storeys of the house. However, the choice of the rounded log diameter does not always depend on the reliability requirements. The size of the log should also match the size of the house. For example, if you fold a large house with an area of ​​400 square meters from a log with a diameter of 200 mm, then the structure will look as if it was folded from matches.

An important factor is the place of origin of the tree.

• One of the best options for construction is the "northern" type of wood, which is harvested in Arkhangelsk, Murmansk, Kirovsk, Karelia, Vologda and Finland. Due to cold climatic conditions, the tree grows more slowly, which explains the increased density of annual rings. This type of wood is very strong and dense, but at the same time easily processed.
• Wood from Siberia, harvested in the region of the Angara River, is more resistant to decay, its knotiness is less than that of the northern one. Its distinguishing feature is a peculiar reddish color, which explains the increased resin content.
• Pine from central Russia (Tver, Vladimir, Kostroma) has a lower density, as a result of which it retains heat better at home, is less prone to cracks than Siberian or northern, but at the same time suffers more from the negative effects of moisture.

In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the rounded log during drying, immediately after laying it in the log house, it is necessary to process its ends with lime or PVA glue - this will help the moisture to exit the log evenly.