Modern building and decorative material in the form of glass blocks provides ample opportunities for interior design. Using these glass "bricks", you can implement the most unexpected solutions for decorating rooms. Such structures are very convenient in operation - they perfectly transmit light, are characterized by high rates of thermal and sound insulation. To mount a wall or a partition made of glass blocks, you will need to take into account some of the features of working with this material.
Many people remember fragments of walls and blind windows of industrial buildings and public premises made of glass blocks. Further, this material turned out to be undeservedly forgotten for some time. Currently, glass blocks are experiencing a rebirth - using these products of a new format, you can create unexpected and original solutions not only for the exterior decoration of private houses, but also for creating original and unique interiors of various premises.
Glass blocks are products of two glass plates of thick glass (opaque, transparent, colored in the mass or with a pattern), connected to each other in a hermetically sealed structure. The air gap gives this building material excellent sound and heat insulation characteristics. Glass blocks are made with a smooth or corrugated surface. Depending on the relief, they can be transparent, diffuse or direct light. On sale are glass blocks of rectangular and square shapes, as well as triangular, angular and even round products, with a thickness of 7.5 to 10 cm, with a weight of about 2.5-4.3 kg. The standard dimensions of glass blocks are 19x19x8 or 24x24x12. Samples of Euro glass blocks are on sale, in which the ends are covered with paint - thanks to this, the seams from the solution do not shine through in the masonry.
This material has a number of advantages, among which are the following:
- natural composition;
- high wear resistance and durability - walls made of glass blocks are resistant to abrasion, mechanical damage, moisture, and temperature extremes;
- due to the presence of an air gap, glass blocks perfectly retain heat and provide excellent sound insulation, approaching in this indicator the characteristics of a brick wall or modern plastic double-glazed windows;
- a glass brick wall can withstand even a mild earthquake. In addition, glass blocks are not flammable; in the event of a fire, they do not melt or crack for a long time;
- ease of assembly and ease of use - glass blocks are a unique building material that does not require subsequent finishing in the form of facing or painting, since they themselves have pronounced decorative properties;
- moisture resistance, thanks to which glass blocks can be used for the construction of interior partitions and walls, as well as glazing of windows in rooms in high humidity conditions (in pools, bathrooms, toilets).
Glass blocks effectively diffuse the sun's rays, without hindering their penetration into the room, making the lighting soft and comfortable. At the same time, transparent products provide the effect of a panoramic view, and corrugated ones close the room from prying eyes.
The use of glass blocks
Decorative glass blocks in the interior of various styles of premises look very impressive. It is convenient to build them into various surfaces to decorate walls, windows and partitions.
This material is used in construction for the following purposes:
- when redeveloping housing for the construction of walls in a new convenient option, since glass blocks allow you to build walls without making the space heavier. It should be noted that this material cannot be used for the construction of load-bearing walls, since such a load may be excessive for this building material. It is worth considering that a wall made of glass blocks separating the room from the hallway or corridor lets in sunlight and adds illumination to this room, and embossed glass blocks will protect the room from prying eyes;
- a partition made of glass blocks with a flat or stepped top can be erected quickly and without much labor and time. This design is especially relevant in bathrooms and toilets. Since this material is moisture-repellent, it can be used to equip bathing areas. Glass blocks in the bathroom allow you to zone different zones, protecting from prying eyes when swimming and protecting the room from splashing water. Such partitions made of glass blocks look very harmonious in a room with high humidity. Showers made of glass blocks are distinguished by higher operational safety compared to glass counterparts.
How to mount glass blocks with your own hands
To carry out the installation of glass blocks with your own hands, you will need to take into account a number of nuances of working with this building and decorative material. It is important to note that glass blocks can only constitute a built-in structure, which requires support in the form of a wall or an end post.
There are several methods for stacking glass blocks:
- the classic method is using a wooden guide frame or a metal profile module, which is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. To fix the masonry, a cement mortar is used, in addition, an adhesive for tiles can be used as an adhesive for glass blocks. Tile adhesive is more viscous and elastic, while it dries quickly and fixes glass blocks with high quality;
- frame method - it is convenient to mount glass blocks on a base in the form of a special frame, while they must be fixed with a seal of a non-coarse structure. Silicone sealant, liquid nails, etc. can be used to secure the masonry to the frame.
The classic way of installing glass blocks
Before laying, the surface to be treated should be cleaned of debris, dust and remnants of the old finish. Then you need to apply the markings to the base base. To determine the size of the wooden module (frame) for fixing the masonry, it is necessary to lay out a row of glass blocks and insert plastic spacers between them. After that, you should measure its length and height and calculate the required dimensions of the frame, which will be installed in the place of the future laying of glass blocks. After drilling holes in the frame, it must be attached to the wall structure using 50 mm dowels and screws. To level the frame module, you can use chips placed between the wall and its supporting surface.
After preparing the base surface, you will need to prepare an adhesive mixture. For laying glass blocks, you can use tile glue or prepare a cement-sand mortar in a 1: 3 ratio. In order to increase the plasticity of the mixture, it is recommended to add PVA glue to it (at the rate of 200 g of glue for five buckets of solution). For laying transparent glass blocks, it is preferable to use white adhesives - in this case, the seams of the structure will look more aesthetically pleasing. It should be borne in mind that you should not prepare a large amount of adhesive solution at once, as it tends to harden quickly.
Before laying, it is necessary to check the integrity of the glass blocks, since the manufacturers provide a guarantee for this material before the start of installation work. Do not remove the protective film from the blocks until the work is completed, in order to prevent damage to the glass plates. If there is no such film, you can use any polyethylene film, fixing it on the surface of the blocks with paper tape.
When installing glass blocks, reinforcement should be used, laying vertically and horizontally in the seams of the masonry rods made of galvanized or stainless steel wire - so that they form a metal mesh that fixes the structure. For this, the reinforcing rods must be fixed in the wall structure by fixing them in the holes prepared in advance. Metal rods are laid on plastic mounting crosses, while their contact with glass should be avoided. At the end of the work, the crosses remain inside the masonry and are overwritten.
For laying glass blocks, you can apply the following step-by-step instructions:
- you will first need to install vertical reinforcing bars in the holes on the bottom of the frame;
- then apply an adhesive solution up to 1 cm thick on the horizontal surface of the frame at the bottom;
- having laid the solution for fixing the first glass block on the side surface of the frame, install the first glass "brick" and fix it by pressing it into the solution layer;
- according to this principle, it is necessary to lay out the bottom row, leveling it with a mallet, and then install mounting crosses between the glass blocks, apply a layer of adhesive mixture on top and install a reinforcing horizontal rod, fixing it in a previously prepared hole;
- then it will be necessary to sequentially lay glass blocks in rows according to the above technique, alternating them with reinforcing rods.
To avoid subsidence and curvature of the erected wall, it is recommended to carry out the installation gradually - 3-5 rows, leaving time for further drying of the seams at least 12 hours. After fixing the glass blocks, remove excess adhesive mixture with a sponge.
After the end of the installation, you should wait until the structure is completely dry - this will take several days. Next, you need to carefully chop off the parts of the plastic crosses protruding from the masonry, if any. In addition, attention should be paid to the seams - in order for them to look quite aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to apply a grout of a suitable shade. To seal the seams, you will need to use a silicone sealant.
After completing the specified work, carefully wipe the glass blocks with a clean cloth. If necessary, the remnants of the glue mixture can be removed from the glass surface using an anti-lime agent or hydrochloric acid solution - in this case, you will need to make sure that this liquid does not penetrate the seams.
The same classic installation method is used for the installation of round structures made of glass blocks. The only difference is that with arched installation, it is necessary to bend the horizontal reinforcement, giving it the desired shape in order to get a rounded wall. In this case, the mounting crosses for adjusting the thickness of the laying joints must be used only on the inside of the structure. For laying the rounded part of the wall, it is recommended to use halves of glass blocks, since in this case a thicker reinforcing mesh will be used to strengthen the structure. In addition, by using smaller bricks, it is easy to minimize the discrepancy between the outside and inside seams, resulting in a cleaner wall.
Frame method for installing glass blocks
For the installation of glass blocks, you can use a convenient in implementation, but more expensive method of laying without cement mortar. This design is lighter and looks more aesthetically pleasing compared to the classic installation method.
To do this, you will need to use a specially made frame system in the form of a metal module or a wooden one (made from dry polished boards) - with cells of a suitable size, into which glass blocks are inserted. In this case, it is necessary that the cell size coincides with the size of the glass blocks with an accuracy of 2 mm. Such a structure will need to be painted in a suitable color and securely attached to the walls, floor and ceiling - for this, dowels or anchors should be used. It is important to carefully align this module vertically and horizontally.
Further, glass blocks will need to be placed in the cells of the prepared frame and fixed at the joints with silicone sealant, which resembles colorless rubber after hardening. It will take up to 10 hours for the joints to dry, after which the frame structure will be ready for use.
The use of glass blocks - photo
Installation of glass blocks - video
Glass blocks today are a high-tech material that provides many options for interesting interior solutions for all areas of the house. The glass block is in harmony with almost all finishing materials and is suitable for rooms of any configuration.
Glass blocks provide a lot of possibilities for interior design. For pools, bathrooms and showers, baths and saunas, glass blocks are an excellent material, since they only benefit from water and steam. Translucent blocks allow light to pass through, but limit visibility, and are suitable both for dividing space and for arranging windows and partitions of various shapes.
In hallways and corridors, glass blocks add light through refraction and reflection. A partition made of glass blocks for the hallway will allow you to preserve natural light for this usually the darkest room in the house.
Partitions from glass blocks
Using glass blocks as fences, you can simultaneously create a stained glass work of art in the form of a glass picture or a panel and hide the passages of pipes, ventilation parts or other utilities.
Walls and partitions made of glass blocks should not always be made of a large area, it is practical if you need to divide the room. Several glass blocks installed in the existing partitions will enliven the interior and make you take a fresh look at the usual decor.
In kitchens, glass bricks are often used to decorate panels over the cutting table and sink, resulting in a lot of light, a feeling of cleanliness, and practical for washing and maintenance. Glass blocks can be washed with any detergent. The glass block bar counter looks original, especially with LED backlighting.
Glass blocks are very popular for decorating loggias, balconies, in the country - for a veranda or terrace. Sunlight and glass are always a win-win, light and shine are provided for any design. In addition, glass blocks for outdoor decoration are ideal, since they are not afraid of either cold or heat and they are not afraid of UV rays.
A huge assortment of glass blocks, both imported and domestically produced, an abundance of colors, textures and surfaces - from mirror to matte and patterned, allow you to realize any fantasies, and they themselves give scope to the imagination.
Installation and laying of glass blocks
Glass blocks are heavy material and require support. The base for a partition, partition or wall made of glass blocks must have a bearing capacity margin. The weight of one block can be from 1.5 to 3 kg or more, and the dimensions also vary greatly. There are two ways of installing glass blocks.
Laying glass blocks in the frame
The first method - laying in special frames or cassettes - gives a stable structure, with an almost perfectly flat surface. The material of the frames is wood, aluminum, plastic, polyurethanes, in various colors and textures. The frame not only does not spoil the aesthetics of the wall, on the contrary, it can add an additional artistic effect. Wireframe cells are made according to the size of the blocks. When laying, there is no need to check the horizontal and vertical lines, and the work goes much faster.
Before proceeding with the laying of glass blocks in the cells of the frame, you need to firmly fix the frame to the supporting surface of the floor and the adjoining wall. If the partition is up to the ceiling, it is also attached to the ceiling, before the blocks are laid. The fastening must be reliable, and the frame is strictly vertical, checked by a plumb line or using a laser level. It must be remembered that the weight of the structure will be considerable, and stability is a guarantee of safe operation.
Fastening of glass blocks in cells is carried out by means of special rubber gaskets. The advantage of this method is the simple replacement of one or more blocks, in case of damage. You only need to have a small supply of blocks. Another plus is that such a partition can be disassembled and mounted elsewhere. in this way, decorative partitions or piers are mounted.
In order to lay out a decorative column, arch, vault or canopy, you need to carry out the laying on adhesives, with special fasteners and reinforcement. Such work should be trusted only by professionals. It is possible to create glass greenhouses and conservatories from glass blocks, they are successfully used for finishing the ceiling, floor and stairs. But such a complex installation requires skill and knowledge.
Laying glass blocks for mortar
The second way of laying is without a frame, using special solutions or adhesives. Many craftsmen lay glass blocks on cement mortar, but experts recommend using tile glue, most often called the Knauf brand. Glue for laying glass blocks is preferable to cement, because it is elastic, viscous, "stretches" when laying, has better adhesion to glass than cement, and dries much faster.
Blocks are stacked end-to-end. The first row of blocks is laid on a profile fixed to the floor. The floor surface must be clean and perfectly level. Begin laying the partition from the wall, and lay out no more than three to five rows in one "shift", due to the large weight of the glass blocks. The masonry should be kept so that the solution is firmly bound to the surface of the blocks, you must not rush.
Deformation of the adhesive in the seams can ruin the whole business. The lines of the joints will turn out to be curved, and this is unacceptable both for the stability of the structure and for aesthetic reasons, since the shining geometry of glass blocks next to the curvature loses much.
Reinforcement of partitions from glass blocks
Glass block partitions require reinforcement, this is a prerequisite. The armature will be a galvanized wire with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm; for high partitions, a wire with a diameter of 6 mm should be taken. Lay the wire both horizontally and vertically, forming a frame.
Two rods are installed vertically, one closer to the outer sides of the glass blocks, the second to the inner ones. Horizontal rods, there are also two of them, are laid inside the "frame", next to the vertical ones. The vertical rods will not be visible, since mounting crosses are used during laying. It is much easier to accurately line up all horizontal and vertical seams and maintain their thickness using crosses.
The choice of crosses for glass blocks is extremely important, since these crosses define the width of the seam. Ideally, the seams should not be noticeable, the thinner they are, the cleaner and brighter the glass block wall will shine. The sizes of the mounting crosses are different - from a minimum of 2 mm, which is not suitable for all glass blocks, but mainly imported (Italian and Czech Vetroaerredo, and German firms), to 5mm and 10 mm.
Glass blocks should be protected during the installation period both from splashes of glue, which will be difficult to remove, and from all accidents during work. Blocks of some manufacturers have a protective film, if not, then stick it on. Any plastic wrap will do; it is convenient to attach it to the front surfaces of the blocks using paper tape. It is not worth removing protective films before the installation is completely completed.
The dry mixture is poured into a container, mixed until completely homogeneous, preferably with a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle. The recommendations of the manufacturer of the mixture should be observed. The masonry is carried out in rows, substituting crosses, and not forgetting the reinforcing rods. Correct the position of the blocks with a rubber hammer. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry should be verified in each row, using a plumb line and a building level, but better - a laser level, and, as already mentioned, keep the masonry no more than five rows a day.
One small nuance can both enhance the positive effect of the work and spoil it - these are the colors and quality of tile grout for joints. Choose carefully, and remember that the colors of some grout in the joints look darker.
Basic rules for the installation of partitions from glass blocks
Basic rules for all glass block structures:
- The surface for the lower tier should be perfectly flat.
- The use of structures made of glass blocks as load-bearing ones is excluded. Only enclosing function, zoning and design. The point here is not in the strength of the blocks themselves, it is enough with a margin, because the thickness of the glass walls is about a centimeter (7-9mm). Significant weight, small thickness of blocks require ideally even and stable support, strong release, strict verticality. Complex curvilinear structures, including arched ones, are also made of glass blocks, but in these cases there is a supporting frame.
- The largest partition area possible is 15 m2. More - not possible for reasons of stability, since the glass blocks are very heavy, and collapse can occur.
- It is better to remove the protective films from the blocks last, after the completion of all the finishing.
Installation of glass blocks into the frame is simple and can be done even without work experience. Installation on a mortar or glue mixture is laborious, requires skills and constant alignment of the vertical and horizon. Stability is the main condition for the safe operation of a glass-block structure. Installation according to the second method, as a rule, is trusted by specialists.
In baths and saunas, all structures and finishing materials are subjected to rather aggressive tests associated with high temperatures and high humidity, so the appearance of glass as a finishing material and a structural element of zoning is quite obvious.
At the same time, glass is not just a tribute to modern trends in design art, but also a completely reasonable solution both from the point of view of reliability and safety, and from the point of view of hygiene, because in conditions of high humidity, the most favorable atmosphere is created for the development of all kinds of fungi.
Types of frameless structures
Today, the possibilities of processing tempered glass are greater than ever before, and this allows you to more freely operate with this material during the design and full-scale installation of a glass frameless partition. A classic bath and a sauna consist of at least two zones - a steam room and a dressing room with a bath, shower room and often a swimming pool. protects the steam room from all other areas of the bath and does it very effectively. There are several glazing options to choose from:
- Rectangular.
- T-shaped.
- Combined.
First option has the best aesthetic properties. The inherent lightness of the structure, due to the completely transparent facade, distinguishes the glass partition from the classic cramped wooden entrance group.
Second option furnishings are also noteworthy and retains a moderate lightness of the structure, although they are complemented by recognizable wooden pylons, harmoniously completing the steam room area. The variant with a combined structure, in which vertical timber profiles can be used, is less popular and is used for individual projects.
Features of glass for a bath
Glass for fencing steam rooms has a number of features that increase the efficiency of the partition, as well as increase the safety of its use.
- The first feature is using only tempered glass , because ordinary heated glass breaks when cold water hits and can damage the user with large and dangerous fragments.
- In addition to hardening, it has recently become widespread glass surface application technology silver ions, which provide it with antibacterial properties, regardless of the temperature and intensity of glass cleaning.
- Meticulous glass edge processing - this is a condition for the tightness of the steam room, as well as the durability of the entire structure of the partition.
Glass decoration, at the request of the customer, can be done by tinting, matting, engraving, fusing, photo printing and even applying a whole plot. This approach will make a bath or sauna truly individual, stylish and distinctive.
Fastening system and fittings
Fastening of an all-glass partition in a bath or sauna is provided by aluminum profiles (wooden ones can also be ordered), the location of which is limited by the ceiling and floor.
This system of profiles ensures reliable fixation of rather large glass panels without the risk of collapse, even with dynamic temperature changes. Naturally, the color of the profiles can be chosen at the request of the customer, it is best to match the glass.
The same applies to the hardware used. It is made of stainless steel in various colors - matt and glossy chrome, as well as gold. The system of hinges "wall-glass", "glass-glass" is capable of opening in both directions, which makes it possible to abandon the door lock.
On the plumbing market, there are a huge number of varieties of shower cabins of all kinds of shapes and colors. But if you want something truly original and at the same time aesthetically attractive, you can create a unique design with your own hands from tiles and glass blocks.
The popularity of shower cabins is growing every day. And of course, many people want their design not to be similar to other stamped factory plumbing blocks. However, not everyone can afford to purchase an option with a unique design. This is not a reason to be upset - a shower stall, created with your own hands from glass blocks and tiles, can compete in all external and technical parameters, with any ready-made design structure at a much lower cost.
Advantages of glass bricks shower partitions:
- creativity and originality;
- relatively low cost "turnkey" if you do the installation yourself;
- a large selection of sizes, shapes, colors of material, light transmittance;
- the possibility of installing both coal and radial shower partitions;
- strength and durability;
- naturalness;
- ease of installation;
- high rates of heat and sound insulation;
- ease of care.
Step-by-step installation of a shower cabin made of tiles and glass blocks
Before starting installation, read the approximate work plan.
It consists of:
- Surface preparation.
- Arrangement of a podium for a pallet and installation of a drain.
- Installation of tiles on walls and pallets with outlets for plumbing fixtures.
- Laying glass-block partitions.
Preparation of the surface for the shower
This stage, in fact, does not even include the adaptation of the surface itself for the upcoming installation, but the preparation of the room itself.
The bathroom should be freed as much as possible from furniture, plumbing fixtures, and the washing machine and other equipment should be taken out.
All free drains should be covered with protective caps or wrapped in plastic wrap.
Drain installation and pallet arrangement
Consider how to install a drain and equip a shower tray at the same time.
The work is done in the following order:
- Mark the place where the structure will be located, taking into account the thickness of the glass block partitions and their shape.
- Dismantle the old floor tiles in this area.
- Grind the surface of the screed, eliminate cracks, if any.
- Treat the floor with a deep penetrating primer.
- For waterproofing, carefully apply a layer of bituminous mastic or other waterproofing, paying particular attention to the seams and corner joints.
- After the waterproofing has dried, brick sides should be installed around the perimeter of the location of the future pallet, or formwork should be made, again coated with mastic and filled with concrete.
- Next, you need to cut off a piece of expanded polystyrene (50 mm thick), and put it tightly into the pallet. It will serve as a heat and sound insulator.
Note! It is the expanded polystyrene that should be laid, and not so beloved by the would-be masters of the “reflector”, which they stubbornly place under the screed, reducing its strength.
- After that, make a cutout in the material under the ladder, install it and connect it to the sewer outlet. It must be installed flush with the finish, so immediately raise it to the correct level and fix it.
- Then fill the starting layer of the rough screed with cement-sand mortar, mixed in a ratio of 1/3.
- After drying, melt isoplast on the screed, filling the entire surface with the membrane.
- Pour in a finishing screed with a slope towards the hopper at least one centimeter per meter.
- After drying, you should cover the final filling with mastic, after which you can start laying the tiles.
Installation of tiles on the pallet and shower walls
Installing a tile or mosaic on a shower tray and adjacent main walls is no different from laying it on other surfaces. The only thing is to choose products with moisture resistance marking "I" or "AI" and "BI", meaning that this tile is moisture resistant, its water absorption coefficient is not more than 3%.
Before installation, you should also treat the working areas with a primer with an antiseptic, so you will improve the adhesion of the ceramic to the screed.
If you will be using a grout, take a moisture resistant one.
Don't forget the conclusions. During installation, be sure to cover them with something to prevent moisture and solution from entering the holes.
Laying glass-block partitions
Consider the installation of a glass-block screen of a rectangular type.
It can be done in one of three main ways:
- classic;
- with the use of fittings;
- frame with a honeycomb module.
The classic way of stacking glass blocks
The easiest installation of glass blocks on an area of up to 15 m 2.
The work is divided into several main stages:
- Prepare the surface - clean it from dust, dirt.
- Apply the markings using a level and a simple pencil, for the guide of a plastic, metal or wooden frame, taking into account the tile seam (width of the crosses) on the floor, ceiling, adjoining walls.
- Fix the starter profiles to the bases with dowels.
- Install metal inserts if the dimensions of the glass blocks in the height or width of the structure are not enough, since it will not be possible to cut these products.
- Prepare a mixture - cement-sand mortar 1: 3 plus 40 g of PVA glue for each bucket of mortar (the glue will increase the plasticity of the mixture). You can also purchase a specialized white mixture, if the glass blocks are transparent or light, the masonry will look much better with light seams.
Glass blocks are laid as follows:
- On the horizontal and vertical of the guide, apply about 1 cm of adhesive along the height and width of the block.
- Lay the block down and press down to secure it.
- Further installation is carried out in the same way. Place special crosses between the blocks for an even seam.
You can lay out no more than three rows per day, otherwise the masonry may "float".
A fully laid out screen will dry for about five days, during which do not apply any unnecessary mechanical impact to it.
Glass-block screen with reinforcement
Allows you to create structures from 15 m 2, and in addition, it is a durable and reliable way of fixing glass blocks.
Step-by-step instructions:
- Clean the installation area from dust and dirt.
- Using a spirit level, check that the vertical and horizontal planes are even.
- Attach two wooden battens to mark the boundaries of the partition.
- Lay the first glass block following the instructions above.
- In the middle of the seam between the first and second piece, insert a reinforcing bar or plate with an anti-corrosion coating and a diameter of 6 mm. Fix it to the base surface.
- Repeat the procedure with subsequent blocks to the end of the row, remembering to expose crosses to maintain an even seam.
- Lay the first side rod or plate horizontally on the mounting crosses of the row. Fix the ends of the rod into the base - a wall or into a guide element.
- Install the fittings in both vertical and horizontal rows, while excluding metal contact with glass blocks, completely recessed them in the adhesive mixture.
Stack no more than 3-4 rows per day.
At the end of the installation, without waiting for the solution to dry completely, carefully remove its excess from the seams and from the glass surface. If the structure is curved, the reinforcement should be bent along the course of the structure.
Frame method for installing glass blocks
It consists in the installation at the level of a modular structure, wooden or metal with a size range of cells that coincides with the dimensions of glass blocks exactly up to 2 mm. If you choose this method, screw the module to the base surface with dowels and paint it in a suitable color.
Fix the blocks with a special silicone sealant. it hardens much faster than a conventional solution and such a structure is ready for operation completely in 12 hours.
The advantages of this installation include quick installation and structural strength. The disadvantages are the high cost of the module.
Door installation
If the presence of a door is implied in the cab, then its hinges should be fixed to the base surface using dowels. Attachment to the screen is only possible if it has a sturdy modular frame.
It is also possible without a door frame, in which case you can curtain the opening with a shower curtain.
Care features
The glass screen is no more difficult to care for than ordinary tiles. It is easy to clean it with warm water and soap or other detergent. However, it is not recommended to use abrasives, both media and metal brushes, as they can scratch the glass.
A shower cabin made of glass blocks and tiles, created by hand, even according to ready-made sketches, is a unique, inimitable design that can decorate any bathroom, show the individuality of the owners with minimal installation costs.